So just as an update, I just went and did a change of the 14t front sprocket down to a 13t coupled with the 31t rear. For reference: stock->15t/38t - 2.533 Usual change->17t/38t - 2.2352 First change->14t/31t - 2.2142 Other change->16/38 - 2.375 Newest setting->13t/31t - 2.3846 I wanted to see if I could gain a little acceleration back without going all the way back to stock. So I can still get slightly higher speeds. Did a few rides the last two days with it and I actually like it a little better. It makes the bike feel a little more playful in average city riding. I don’t do much 60+ riding with this bike so having that highest top speed available was not really necessary for me and I’d prefer to get a little more torque to the wheel back for zipping around downtown. I will Probabaly go back up to the 14t on the front when I do the exhaust, intake, and PCV mods to the bike and gain a little bit out of it though. I do like having 1st go higher than it did with stock though. The extra 13t gear was only like $10 extra too so it’s cheap to make the adjustment. Not to mention the 13t fit perfect with where the length of the chain was already at from the 14t/31t before. Hope this update helps!
Hey thanks! I’m glad I could help! In all honesty the lighter you are the better this change will be for you because you’re bike doesn’t need as much low end torque to get the same acceleration as someone heavier than you. So giving up a little low end torque/acceleration to get more high speed is a bit less of a give and take for a lighter rider. Not to mention lighter riders have a lower rolling resistance so you’ll have more torque to the tires at the higher speeds too. The bike is only like 250lbs wet. I’m 210lbs, 250lbs with gear and a backpack. So 500lbs total for me. Now compare that to a small rider of say 125lbs, 150lbs with gear, that’s only 400lbs total. So because rolling resistance is almost directly linear with total weight, a rider that much lighter than me could see 20% less rolling resistance at high speeds giving more power/torque to the wheels for acceleration or even higher speeds. Hope that makes sense! Let me know if it didn’t! 😅
Sorry, 😞 I don’t have a camera for recording while riding. But it’s no different than if you just changed the front sprocket to 16 or 17 but with the slightest bit more pep to it. 🤷♂️ nothing too special just helps reduce rotational mass of the drivetrain.
Heck yeah, always nice to see people trying different routes! I'm super anxious to see if you try and tackle the turbine project on it, that would be crazy!
Hey thanks HondaPro Kevin! Yeah I’m REALLY excited to start doing that. I have a little bit more R&D to do with them to make them perfectly viable for the groms but it won’t be long! Retrofit bolt on kits will just perfect for it. I may attempt just making some Tesla Turbine Turbochargers to go inline with the exhaust/intake for the time being but we shall see. Like I literally shouldn’t have to do anything to the solar powered steam turbines we are making except make a special bolt on kit for it to mate up with the transmissions housing and make a combustion chamber leading to the variable nozzles lol Tesla actually has a multi fluid (steam + Combustion) improvement patent of his disc turbine. Check it out it’s US Patent Number 186,083. It’s rather beautiful and simple. Thanks again for your grom videos!
Ohh and anyone who’s wondering “What Turbines?!” Check out my other RUclips channel where I have been doing R&D on Nikola Tesla’s Disc Turbines for combustion’s and off grid solar steam purposes! Latest dyno tests for the 10in turbine show a peak of 3.2hp and 5.02ft-lbs of torque @~4500rpm and a sustained 2.5hp from 5000rpm-8000rpm all just with room temp compressed air tests and not heat addition which is really where the power comes from! ruclips.net/video/2aSbRT3tlUM/видео.html
So just as an update, I just went and did a change of the 14t front sprocket down to a 13t coupled with the 31t rear. For reference: stock->15t/38t - 2.533 Usual change->17t/38t - 2.2352 First change->14t/31t - 2.2142 Newest setting->13t/31t - 2.3846 I wanted to see if I could gain a little acceleration back without going all the way back to stock. So I can still get slightly higher speeds. Did a few rides the last two days with it and I actually like it a little better. It makes the bike feel a little more playful in average city riding. I don’t do much 60+ riding with this bike so having that highest top speed available was not really necessary for me and I’d prefer to get a little more torque to the wheel back for zipping around downtown. I will Probabaly go back up to the 14t on the front when I do the exhaust, intake, and PCV mods to the bike and gain a little bit out of it though. I do like having 1st go higher than it did with stock though. The extra 13t gear was only like $10 extra too so it’s cheap to make the adjustment. Not to mention the 13t fit perfect with where the length of the chain was already at from the 14t/31t before. Hope this update helps!
Hey HondaPro Kevin! I’ve got updates on my turbine combustion system for the bigger turbine I’m building!! As soon as I show this working we are going to miniaturize it for the Grom!! Tesla Turbine Combustion GB186,083 gasoline fuel water cooled burner atomizer detonation super steam ruclips.net/video/gRqKowignac/видео.html
Hey thank you AbeLinkinXVI! Hope you enjoy your grom! It was worth every penny for me! Especially with gas prices these days. You can’t beat 140miles per gallon.
I did the 12/28 ratio and can confirm this adds significant speed and acceleration but it also adds to chain wear and helps if you make sure to stagger the alignment of the links. I forgot exactly how your supposed to do this but your basically making sure the sprockets teeth will touch every link instead of them constantly meshing with the same teeth and not having all the teeth touch all the links is the Geist of the work around to help with the wear issue of smaller sprockets.
Hey thanks TesTur Energy! I’m extremely pleased with the final results and I can’t wait to go back up to the 15t front sprocket once I get these performance mods done!
@@jmiller7693 hey thanks for commenting. So first off, YES I am keeping it. I wrote out a better explanation to a previous commenter who was wondering the same thing so I’ll copy and paste that info here to. So just as a starting comment. I. ABSOLUTELY. LOVE IT!! I need to give it just a little bit more throttle on immediate take off to start it moving but once it’s locked in with the engine in first gear it pulls and I do not feel like I’ve lost any take off. In fact just about most cars would pull away from me on starts before and now unless a car is like “racing” away I never feel like I’m trying to keep up. And I usually take off faster than most compact cars now too and I still baby the throttle lol don’t expect like a TON of power out of it though. And just for the record so no one scorns me, technically it’s not “making more power” it’s “making power available that was previously being lost”. So either way, if you do this and don’t plan to drive it “faster/harder” ie doing all the same accelerations as before, you’ll save on gas 🤷♂️ so it’s a win win regardless. For me getting a little bit more time before having to shift to second also was a very nice change. First gear before just felt so short. Lastly i really REALLY like using this new setup because it seems to put my cruising speeds in a better torque/power band of the engine. Like downshifting to pass someone just puts it right where I want the engine to be for most torque/power to take off at speed. again I’m not talking like HUGE changes or anything. The bike just seems to like these ranges a little bit better for the speeds and roads that I’ve been driving around on, which is all 25, 30-35, 45 and 55 mph roads (I usually drive 0-5mph over given the road). Being in third gear cruising downtown at 25mph puts me right at 4500-5000rpm and then if I need to accelerate it’s just throttle because I still have all the top end of 3rd to go and I believe the power/torque band of the new grom really peaks between 5000 and 8000. I think I mentioned this in the video but it also puts the engine in a nicer rpm that gives a little bit deeper of a hum to it being in lower RPMs but that’s really just personal preference. I will say the only issue is I don’t have a Speedo healer so my dash reads me going slower than I actually am. I used a gps speedometer and at 35mph on the dash the gps says I’m actually going 40. I took it on a quick strip of highway yesterday and in full tuck flat ground pinned I got it up to 70mph on my gps. And before my max speed pinned was like 60-62 going slightly downhill (I weigh 210lbs as well just for the record) As for the intake, exhaust, PCV+auto tuner (PCV for 2022 isn’t out yet just FYI.) I haven’t yet put them in. so all of these points I’m making are entirely just from changing the sprockets alone. Also I do not suggest this exact gear ratio if you plan on doing any stunting as it will reduce the torque a little for “poppin mega dank nooners” or at least I’m not skilled enough to do it with this gearing 😂😂😂 but that being said you can still get the higher than stock gear ratio while still using this principle of reducing the rear sprocket. I think most drop to a 14 in the front for wheelies and stunting so that would be 14t/38t @2.7142 to just change the front on stock. So to achieve that a 13t/35t @2.6923 or (if they make a 12t front for the grom 🤷♂️ idk if they do) 12t/32t @2.6666 or 12t/33t @2.7500 ratios.
@@jmiller7693 but as well I finally got to go out riding with a buddy who also has the new 2022 grom. He has a yoshi pipe on his though with stock gearing and he’s about 30lbs lighter than me and he definitely gets the pull on me off the line, which is to be expected changing the gearing like this but honestly not by much. like it’s close enough that I’m wondering what it would be like if we were the same weight because 30lbs is a big weight difference.
@@jmiller7693 So just as an update, I just went and did a change of the 14t front sprocket down to a 13t coupled with the 31t rear. For reference: stock->15t/38t - 2.533 Usual change->17t/38t - 2.2352 First change->14t/31t - 2.2142 Newest setting->13t/31t - 2.3846 I wanted to see if I could gain a little acceleration back without going all the way back to stock. So I can still get slightly higher speeds. Did a few rides the last two days with it and I actually like it a little better. It makes the bike feel a little more playful in average city riding. I don’t do much 60+ riding with this bike so having that highest top speed available was not really necessary for me and I’d prefer to get a little more torque to the wheel back for zipping around downtown. I will Probabaly go back up to the 14t on the front when I do the exhaust, intake, and PCV mods to the bike and gain a little bit out of it though. I do like having 1st go higher than it did with stock though. The extra 13t gear was only like $10 extra too so it’s cheap to make the adjustment. Not to mention the 13t fit perfect with where the length of the chain was already at from the 14t/31t before. Hope this update helps!
I just ordered a 14/35 for my 22 Grom. With your 13/31 sprockets being so much smaller, does the chain rub on the swing arm pivot when you go over bumps? Great video, Thanks!
Perhaps the better question is how much faster is your chain slider wearing out with the much smaller sprockets and narrowed gap between the top and bottom of the chain?
Heck yeah! The gear change was a pretty quick and easy change to make. It’s more work than changing the exhaust but less than doing the chimera intake. Let me know what you think! I’d love to hear your feedback. I finally got to go out riding with a buddy who also has the new 2022 grom. He has a yoshi pipe on his though with stock gearing and he’s about 30lbs lighter than me and he definitely gets the pull on me off the line but honestly not by much. like it’s close enough that I’m wondering what it would be like if we were the same weight because 30lbs is a big eight difference.
@@HeatAndPower I'm not yet determined what is the end goal for the grom. I've got the TST fender eliminator, integrated tail light, and shaves front blinkers. I've got some new mirrors. It's going to live on the back of the van and I'm going to throw on knobby tires this winter when we're down in Florida and ride it off road and when we head out west. It'll get a lot of use in Utah in the winter and spring. I think I'll do the sprockets, chain, chan adjusters, when I do the tires and probably throw a baja designs light on the front. I'll do the levers at some point in between. I'm really torn as to intake and exhaust. I really like the Toce undertail pipes that aren't out yet. I could also be pursued if someone made the exhaust that comes off to the side and doesn't run under the bottom. So I think intake and exhaust will need to wait until we get some more options into the market.
So just as an update, I just went and did a change of the 14t front sprocket down to a 13t coupled with the 31t rear. For reference: stock->15t/38t - 2.533 Usual change->17t/38t - 2.2352 First change->14t/31t - 2.2142 Newest setting->13t/31t - 2.3846 I wanted to see if I could gain a little acceleration back without going all the way back to stock. So I can still get slightly higher speeds. Did a few rides the last two days with it and I actually like it a little better. It makes the bike feel a little more playful in average city riding. I don’t do much 60+ riding with this bike so having that highest top speed available was not really necessary for me and I’d prefer to get a little more torque to the wheel back for zipping around downtown. I will Probabaly go back up to the 14t on the front when I do the exhaust, intake, and PCV mods to the bike and gain a little bit out of it though. I do like having 1st go higher than it did with stock though. The extra 13t gear was only like $10 extra too so it’s cheap to make the adjustment. Not to mention the 13t fit perfect with where the length of the chain was already at from the 14t/31t before. Hope this update helps!
I absolutely love it. With the stock engine. Kept the 13/31 for now. I’m waiting for my warranty period to be over before putting on the aftermarket engine parts. Which will be near the end of the summer. So pretty soon! I will have an update video here in the near future too. I’m trying to save some money to get a camera for riding so I can record it.
thanks for the info fello Michigander lol deft am going to order the 14t & 31t here soon. not sure where at in mi you are but im in the tri-citys and would be cool to meet some ppl out riding
Hey Dustin! Thanks for commenting! So I’m working on acquiring a go pro to be able to do some actual video of my rides. But until then I don’t have a safe and reliable way to be able to film and ride at the same time. I will soon though!
So just as an update, I just went and did a change of the 14t front sprocket down to a 13t coupled with the 31t rear. For reference: stock->15t/38t - 2.533 Usual change->17t/38t - 2.2352 First change->14t/31t - 2.2142 Newest setting->13t/31t - 2.3846 I wanted to see if I could gain a little acceleration back without going all the way back to stock. So I can still get slightly higher speeds. Did a few rides the last two days with it and I actually like it a little better. It makes the bike feel a little more playful in average city riding. I don’t do much 60+ riding with this bike so having that highest top speed available was not really necessary for me and I’d prefer to get a little more torque to the wheel back for zipping around downtown. I will Probabaly go back up to the 14t on the front when I do the exhaust, intake, and PCV mods to the bike and gain a little bit out of it though. I do like having 1st go higher than it did with stock though. The extra 13t gear was only like $10 extra too so it’s cheap to make the adjustment. Not to mention the 13t fit perfect with where the length of the chain was already at from the 14t/31t before. Hope this update helps!
You really don't need the power command 5 system all you need to do is up the fuel injector to a slightly bigger one they make different fuel injectors that can move more fuel each time it says to do so.
Still working on doing the upgrades. My warranty ended like last week and I was waiting for that to end to do them. Now I just gotta find the time to do it all. 😅
Hey thanks for reaching out! It’s hard to say because I don’t have the speedo healer. I honestly can’t tell the difference in the amount of fuel used. And as you said the fuel economy is already so dang high even if it did lower a little the change in the feeling of how it rides now is sooo worth it. Just having first gear not be so dang short alone made this bike more enjoyable to ride. But that just my experience.
Also, in other news I’ve been very busy with my other channel and the Micro Turbines that I build. Hoping to be able to swap out my grom 125 engine with one of my combustion turbines. Check out my latest 2.75kW and 6.22ft-lbs of torque at ~4150rpm with just room temp compressed air! ruclips.net/user/shortsyXQy844URMA?feature=share
Hey Ahrian Jones! Yay congrats on getting your grom! Also thanks for commenting! I went with the Two brother racing foot pegs. I very much recommend them. The stock ones with the rubber tops were very annoying. And honestly a bit slipper if even slightly wet. But yeah the TBR foot pegs are great and give me SOO much more traction to the bike. I would suggest to change your shifter to be rotated up one spline to be a little bit more angled up with these foot pegs. They have a bit of a flatter top to them compared to the stock so I just had to work a little more to get my foot under the shifter in it’s stock position but now that I switched the shifters position it sits with perfect ergonomics. But this was just my personal preference and you may like the shifter just fine in the stock position. It was a 2 minute change to adjust the shifter so go with whatever feels most comfortable for you. Thanks again for commenting!
@@Squire333 So just as an update, I just went and did a change of the 14t front sprocket down to a 13t coupled with the 31t rear. For reference: stock->15t/38t - 2.533 Usual change->17t/38t - 2.2352 First change->14t/31t - 2.2142 Newest setting->13t/31t - 2.3846 I wanted to see if I could gain a little acceleration back without going all the way back to stock. So I can still get slightly higher speeds. Did a few rides the last two days with it and I actually like it a little better. It makes the bike feel a little more playful in average city riding. I don’t do much 60+ riding with this bike so having that highest top speed available was not really necessary for me and I’d prefer to get a little more torque to the wheel back for zipping around downtown. I will Probabaly go back up to the 14t on the front when I do the exhaust, intake, and PCV mods to the bike and gain a little bit out of it though. I do like having 1st go higher than it did with stock though. The extra 13t gear was only like $10 extra too so it’s cheap to make the adjustment. Not to mention the 13t fit perfect with where the length of the chain was already at from the 14t/31t before. Hope this update helps!
How does it feel after a few days? I don't want to do to many mods for power, But I do want to make a little more power without having to spend a ton of money!?
I. ABSOLUTELY. LOVE IT!! I need to give it just a little bit more throttle on immediate take off to start it moving but once it’s locked in with the engine in first gear it pulls and I do not feel like I’ve lost any take off. In fact just about most cars would pull away from me on starts before and now unless a car is like “racing” away I never feel like I’m trying to keep up. And I usually take off faster than most compact cars now too and I still baby the throttle lol don’t expect like a TON of power out of it though. And just for the record so no one scorns me, technically it’s not “making more power” it’s “making power available that was previously being lost”. So either way, if you do this and don’t plan to drive it “faster/harder” ie doing all the same accelerations as before, you’ll save on gas 🤷♂️ so it’s a win win regardless. For me getting a little bit more time before having to shift to second also was a very nice change. First gear before just felt so short. Lastly i really REALLY like using this new setup because it seems to put my cruising speeds in a better torque/power band of the engine. Like downshifting to pass someone just puts it right where I want the engine to be for most torque/power to take off at speed. again I’m not talking like HUGE changes or anything. The bike just seems to like these ranges a little bit better for the speeds and roads that I’ve been driving around on, which is all 25, 30-35, 45 and 55 mph roads (I usually drive 0-5mph over given the road). Being in third gear cruising downtown at 25mph puts me right at 4500-5000rpm and then if I need to accelerate it’s just throttle because I still have all the top end of 3rd to go and I believe the power/torque band of the new grom really peaks between 5000 and 8000. I think I mentioned this in the video but it also puts the engine in a nicer rpm that gives a little bit deeper of a hum to it being in lower RPMs but that’s really just personal preference. I will say the only issue is I don’t have a Speedo healer so my dash reads me going slower than I actually am. I used a gps speedometer and at 35mph on the dash the gps says I’m actually going 40. I took it on a quick strip of highway yesterday and in full tuck flat ground pinned I got it up to 70mph on my gps. And before my max speed pinned was like 60-62 going slightly downhill (I weigh 210lbs as well just for the record) As for the intake, exhaust, PCV+auto tuner I haven’t yet put them in. so all of these points I’m making are entirely just from changing the sprockets alone. Also I do not suggest this exact gear ratio if you plan on doing any stunting as it will reduce the torque a little for “poppin mega dank nooners” or at least I’m not skilled enough to do it with this gearing 😂😂😂 but that being said you can still get the higher than stock gear ratio while still using this principle of reducing the rear sprocket. I think most drop to a 14 in the front for wheelies and stunting so that would be 14t/38t @2.7142 to just change the front on stock. So to achieve that a 13t/35t @2.6923 or (if they make a 12t front for the grom 🤷♂️ idk if they do) 12t/32t @2.6666 or 12t/33t @2.7500 ratios.
So just as an update, I just went and did a change of the 14t front sprocket down to a 13t coupled with the 31t rear. For reference: stock->15t/38t - 2.533 Usual change->17t/38t - 2.2352 First change->14t/31t - 2.2142 Newest setting->13t/31t - 2.3846 I wanted to see if I could gain a little acceleration back without going all the way back to stock. So I can still get slightly higher speeds. Did a few rides the last two days with it and I actually like it a little better. It makes the bike feel a little more playful in average city riding. I don’t do much 60+ riding with this bike so having that highest top speed available was not really necessary for me and I’d prefer to get a little more torque to the wheel back for zipping around downtown. I will Probabaly go back up to the 14t on the front when I do the exhaust, intake, and PCV mods to the bike and gain a little bit out of it though. I do like having 1st go higher than it did with stock though. The extra 13t gear was only like $10 extra too so it’s cheap to make the adjustment. Not to mention the 13t fit perfect with where the length of the chain was already at from the 14t/31t before. Hope this update helps!
To be honest I was in such a hurry to put the new one on when I did it I didn’t even weigh the two but the new one is at least half the weight. Which is still not that much all things considered. But when you only got 8hp available every gram matters lol The additional periphery rim on the original one was super overkill.
Hey Robert. Unfortunately I don’t have a video since I don’t have a camera for riding. I need to get one but money is right right now. (I’m loving the grom for its 140mpg gas mileage with gas prices right now.) but that being said this is basically the same thing as just switching the stock setup to a 16 or 17 front sprocket with the stock 38 in the back. The gear ratios for the 13 or 14 front with the 31 back are about the same. But just as an update, I went and did a change of the 14t front sprocket down to a 13t coupled with the 31t rear because I haven’t done the intake or exhaust mods yet. I’m waiting until the one year warranty to be up. For reference: stock->15t/38t - 2.533 Usual change->17t/38t - 2.2352 First change->14t/31t - 2.2142 Other stock option->16t/38t - 2.375 Newest setting->13t/31t - 2.3846 I wanted to see if I could gain a little acceleration back without going all the way back to stock sprocket ratios. So I can still get slightly higher speeds. Did a few rides the last two days with it and I actually like it a little better. It makes the bike feel a little more playful in average city riding. I don’t do much 60+ riding with this bike so having that highest top speed available was not really necessary for me and I’d prefer to get a little more torque to the wheel back for zipping around downtown. I will Probabaly go back up to the 14t on the front when I do the exhaust, intake, and PCV mods to the bike and gain a little bit out of it though. I do like having 1st go higher than it did with stock though. The extra 13t gear was only like $10 extra too so it’s cheap to make the adjustment. Not to mention the 13t fit perfect with where the length of the chain was already at from the 14t/31t before. Hope this update helps!
@@HeatAndPower ok thanks i appreciate it if you can keep me updated once you have the mods done to better help me Determine what works best .. thanks !!
Definitely not the same. One is a 38 tooth gear with a heavy steal plate washer at its periphery. The other is a 31 tooth 7075 t6 aluminum sprocket. I did not weigh them to give you an exact number but the new one is significantly lighter, relatively speaking that is. Then on top of that I lost 4 chain links off the chain. Which is rotational mass lost in the drivetrain. The front 13t sprocket is probably so close in weight to the original 15t though that it doesn’t matter. But again you’re not going to see like major improvements, but they are there and they are noticeable. When the thing only has 8-9hp gaining any of that back for torque to the wheel is going to help. If we were at 80-90hp I’d say don’t even bother, the gains won’t make much difference. But again that being said I still did this because it made the 1-4 gears WAYY more ridable for city and suburbs riding. First gear was just abysmally short when stock.
So between the title.. your words and your pinned comment I am slightly confused lol!!!! Should I go 13/31 or should I go 14/31? 2024 grom if this matters
I’m working on getting a camera for riding. Can’t really justify a go pro in my budget at the moment. I’m thanking god that I bought a Grom at the end of last summer that gets 140miles per gallon with gas prices and inflation right right now. This is no different than switching the front sprocket to a 16 or 17 though. just ditching some of that heavy rear sprocket. 13:31 is 2.3845 ratio 16:38 is 2.375 ratio 14:31 is 2.2142 17:38 is 2.2352 So you’ll get just about the same experience but you won’t have to grind away on the sprocket cover to fit the gears.
Hey thanks for commenting VoltageFire So just as a starting comment. I. ABSOLUTELY. LOVE IT!! I need to give it just a little bit more throttle on immediate take off to start it moving but once it’s locked in with the engine in first gear it pulls and I do not feel like I’ve lost any take off. In fact just about most cars would pull away from me on starts before and now unless a car is like “racing” away I never feel like I’m trying to keep up. And I usually take off faster than most compact cars now too and I still baby the throttle lol don’t expect like a TON of power out of it though. And just for the record so no one scorns me, technically it’s not “making more power” it’s “making power available that was previously being lost”. So either way, if you do this and don’t plan to drive it “faster/harder” ie doing all the same accelerations as before, you’ll save on gas 🤷♂️ so it’s a win win regardless. For me getting a little bit more time before having to shift to second also was a very nice change. First gear before just felt so short. Lastly i really REALLY like using this new setup because it seems to put my cruising speeds in a better torque/power band of the engine. Like downshifting to pass someone just puts it right where I want the engine to be for most torque/power to take off at speed. again I’m not talking like HUGE changes or anything. The bike just seems to like these ranges a little bit better for the speeds and roads that I’ve been driving around on, which is all 25, 30-35, 45 and 55 mph roads (I usually drive 0-5mph over given the road). Being in third gear cruising downtown at 25mph puts me right at 4500-5000rpm and then if I need to accelerate it’s just throttle because I still have all the top end of 3rd to go and I believe the power/torque band of the new grom really peaks between 5000 and 8000. I think I mentioned this in the video but it also puts the engine in a nicer rpm that gives a little bit deeper of a hum to it being in lower RPMs but that’s really just personal preference. I will say the only issue is I don’t have a Speedo healer so my dash reads me going slower than I actually am. I used a gps speedometer and at 35mph on the dash the gps says I’m actually going 40. I took it on a quick strip of highway yesterday and in full tuck flat ground pinned I got it up to 70mph on my gps. And before my max speed pinned was like 60-62 going slightly downhill (I weigh 210lbs as well just for the record) As for the intake, exhaust, PCV+auto tuner (PCV for 2022 isn’t out yet just FYI.) I haven’t yet put them in. so all of these points I’m making are entirely just from changing the sprockets alone. Also I do not suggest this exact gear ratio if you plan on doing any stunting as it will reduce the torque a little for “poppin mega dank nooners” or at least I’m not skilled enough to do it with this gearing 😂😂😂 but that being said you can still get the higher than stock gear ratio while still using this principle of reducing the rear sprocket. I think most drop to a 14 in the front for wheelies and stunting so that would be 14t/38t @2.7142 to just change the front on stock. So to achieve that a 13t/35t @2.6923 or (if they make a 12t front for the grom 🤷♂️ idk if they do) 12t/32t @2.6666 or 12t/33t @2.7500 ratios.
@@VoltageFire So just as an update, I just went and did a change of the 14t front sprocket down to a 13t coupled with the 31t rear. For reference: stock->15t/38t - 2.533 Usual change->17t/38t - 2.2352 First change->14t/31t - 2.2142 Newest setting->13t/31t - 2.3846 I wanted to see if I could gain a little acceleration back without going all the way back to stock. So I can still get slightly higher speeds. Did a few rides the last two days with it and I actually like it a little better. It makes the bike feel a little more playful in average city riding. I don’t do much 60+ riding with this bike so having that highest top speed available was not really necessary for me and I’d prefer to get a little more torque to the wheel back for zipping around downtown. I will Probabaly go back up to the 14t on the front when I do the exhaust, intake, and PCV mods to the bike and gain a little bit out of it though. I do like having 1st go higher than it did with stock though. The extra 13t gear was only like $10 extra too so it’s cheap to make the adjustment. Not to mention the 13t fit perfect with where the length of the chain was already at from the 14t/31t before. Hope this update helps!
Hey Asagao! Thanks for commenting! So using my gps speedometer my max speed WOT before was about 60-62mph (I weigh 210lbs) and now my gps Clocks me at 69-70mph at WOT. But I will follow that up with what I wrote to someone else just so you have all the little ins and outs I have found with this change. Let me know if you have any other questions! I. ABSOLUTELY. LOVE IT!! I need to give it just a little bit more throttle on immediate take off to start it moving but once it’s locked in with the engine in first gear it pulls and I do not feel like I’ve lost any take off. In fact just about most cars would pull away from me on starts before and now unless a car is like “racing” away I never feel like I’m trying to keep up. And I usually take off faster than most compact cars now too and I still baby the throttle lol don’t expect like a TON of power out of it though. And just for the record so no one scorns me, technically it’s not “making more power” it’s “making power available that was previously being lost”. So either way, if you do this and don’t plan to drive it “faster/harder” ie doing all the same accelerations as before, you’ll save on gas 🤷♂️ so it’s a win win regardless. For me getting a little bit more time before having to shift to second also was a very nice change. First gear before just felt so short. Lastly i really REALLY like using this new setup because it seems to put my cruising speeds in a better torque/power band of the engine. Like downshifting to pass someone just puts it right where I want the engine to be for most torque/power to take off at speed. again I’m not talking like HUGE changes or anything. The bike just seems to like these ranges a little bit better for the speeds and roads that I’ve been driving around on, which is all 25, 30-35, 45 and 55 mph roads (I usually drive 0-5mph over given the road). Being in third gear cruising downtown at 25mph puts me right at 4500-5000rpm and then if I need to accelerate it’s just throttle because I still have all the top end of 3rd to go and I believe the power/torque band of the new grom really peaks between 5000 and 8000. I think I mentioned this in the video but it also puts the engine in a nicer rpm that gives a little bit deeper of a hum to it being in lower RPMs but that’s really just personal preference. I will say the only issue is I don’t have a Speedo healer so my dash reads me going slower than I actually am. I used a gps speedometer and at 35mph on the dash the gps says I’m actually going 40. I took it on a quick strip of highway yesterday and in full tuck flat ground pinned I got it up to 70mph on my gps. And before my max speed pinned was like 60-62 going slightly downhill (I weigh 210lbs as well just for the record) As for the intake, exhaust, PCV+auto tuner (PCV for 2022 isn’t out yet just FYI.) I haven’t yet put them in. so all of these points I’m making are entirely just from changing the sprockets alone. Also I do not suggest this exact gear ratio if you plan on doing any stunting as it will reduce the torque a little for “poppin mega dank nooners” or at least I’m not skilled enough to do it with this gearing 😂😂😂 but that being said you can still get the higher than stock gear ratio while still using this principle of reducing the rear sprocket. I think most drop to a 14 in the front for wheelies and stunting so that would be 14t/38t @2.7142 to just change the front on stock. So to achieve that a 13t/35t @2.6923 or (if they make a 12t front for the grom 🤷♂️ idk if they do) 12t/32t @2.6666 or 12t/33t @2.7500 ratios.
And to be honest, if I can get another 1 magical horse power out by adding the exhaust, intake, PCV+autotuner then I may even consider jumping the front back up to a 15 tooth front with the 31t rear to get just that little bit more top end speed. I have a feeling it would be a little underpowered for 5th gear without a little power increase if going back up to the 15t front. Who knows, after my warranty is up, I may go for the big bore kit and go up to 170cc maybe even 200cc. 🤷♂️ really depends on if I feel like doing to tool time or not. I’m currently immersed in R&D in Tesla Turbines and I’d REALLY like to be able to offer a bolt on retrofit Tesla turbo jet engine replacement for the 4 stroke piston head. That’s still wayyy down the line though at this point. Check out my other channel and the latest 10in Tesla turbine dyno tests. Not this run but my latest peak output is 3.65hp and 6ft-lbs of torque @4150rpm with just 120psi compressed air. ruclips.net/user/shorts35QcP9u4O4s?feature=share
Nice! Rollin that odometer over! Gotta love the unlimited miles/kms on the warranty too. I just crossed 725miles myself. And for it like 3-4weeks ago now I think. I also got a 5 year warranty but i don’t think it includes the engine and stuff, scam I know 😂 but it was the only way I was going to be riding before February because the 5 closest dealers to me were preordered until then but the very last dealer I was going to call, because the next closest after that was like 150 miles away, they had one available but wouldn’t sell it if I didn’t get the 5 year warranty. 🤷♂️ whatever I’d rather be riding today with a smile on my face anyway 😂 but I should be good to mod it to my hearts desire after the original warranty ends.
I have 2022 Grom pretty much stock except a tst intake cover and Grom father speed spacers. Just put a 15/35 2.33 55mph running 6250rpm in 5th but can only get top speed of 58 where factory gears I could reach 63-65mph. I'm trying to find the best fuel economy at the 55-60mph range. So debating on 14/34 which would split the two ratios and put my speedometer close to on. Or keep the 15 front and go 36 or 37 in the rear.
Nice! Yeah def gotta test around. Personally I LOVE mine at 13/31. And I still have it stock too. I will be adding more engine mods once I’m passed the 1 year warranty. I cruise around all day long at 50-60 and I have a milkcrate strapped to my pillion rack and the max I’ve seen was 70 on my gps but that was done without the milk crate on.
Your 15/35 is a 2.3333. When I had the 14/31 at 2.2142 it seemed a little underpowered for the ratio. That’s why I went back up to the 13/31 at 2.3846 and it seems like a really good spot for the stock motor. I will be trying to go back up to the 14/31 once I’ve got a little more power out of the engine. 😈 Omg though the best change in all of this is first gear doesn’t last like 1/2 a second now too. Sooo much better.
Hey thanks for your comment but that only happens if you don’t also change the front sprocket. I would urge you to watch through this again if you’re still wondering how it works.
Additionally, yes if you change the gear ratio you will reduce torque but increase top end speed. (If the motor can supply the power that is) Like dropping the front sprocket will increase torque and make it good for wheelies but reduce top end speed. And upping the front sprocket will reduce torque but increase top end speed. The back sprocket works the opposite. But it’s still overall gear ratio that matters.
What is the best rear combination for 16t front sprocket? I have one that I haven’t installed yet. I want don’t want to lose torque that much but also gain top end speed.
Your post is a month old, but if you're still interested. This is my experience with a 16T front sprocket. I installed the 16T front sprocket, and left the factory rear sprocket on my 2022 Grom SP. It made the gears longer, but it absolutely destroyed top end speed. I went from getting 60+ mph in 5th gear, down to barely 55 (It really struggled) on a flat surface. 5th gear is utterly useless. I weigh 170lbs, the Grom is bone stock other than the front sprocket. I had a half tank of fuel on a flat half mile long road, with the throttle wide open. I immediately took it back home and put the 15T back on. Waiting on the 14T to come in now, gonna give that a whirl. Everyone seems to have various different outcomes. I think Charles is spot on when it comes down to rotational mass, and amount of weight you have on the bike. Oh yeah also, the 16T front sprocket will work perfectly with the stock chain. 🤙
@@SCFPV the biggest thing I like about the change is 1st gear actually goes out for a while. I’m not shifting 2 feet into an intersection after starting in 1st gear. I’ve also noticed that if I don’t fully rev out 4th gear I don’t have enough torque going into 5th gear to get over 60. You have to shift into 5th when you are in the high torque and power rpm range of the motor and it will take off more. I cruise around at 60-65 all the time on mine. (GPS measured) The engine doesn’t really output much until about 6000rpm and higher. But agreed because 5th gear is more like an over speed gear relative to the first 4, you have to drive it a bit different with the change. Upon making the change, another thing I like is that it seemed the original gearing was designed for cruising around euro or Asian road speed limits 25km/hr 35km/hr +50km/hr. And it felt like when I was cruising around at 25mph, 35mph, +50mph I was a bit high in revs, and shifting up I felt a bit low in the revs. Now with the 13:31 I feel like the engine sorta “sings” a bit nicer and feels a bit more like there’s “pull” left before having to shift when I’m at each of the US usual speed limit cruising speeds. Just my experience. 🤷♂️
Nice I just got my first bike and went with a grom cause I have a history of crashing shit so I figured speed is the last thing I need Lol, how often do you lube the chain? Some guy told me every 100 miles
Hey Kim Jong Chill! Congrats on the grom! It’s honestly a great little bike. And you can’t beat the 140 miles per gallon gas mileage with the price of gas these days 😬 As for me… I’m sure I’m not doing it often enough lol I usually do it every 500-1000miles but that’s just me.
If you haven’t yet, check out the RevZilla channel. They have a lot of good how to’s and what not. This is the one they have for chain maintenance. It’ll have everything you need to know! Cheers! ruclips.net/video/XgPpLKCUlbA/видео.html
Hey Sebastian! Thanks for messaging. So you can do the same thing with your older grom but you will need a different rear gear though. If I remember correctly the old ones come stock at 15f/34b back right? So 2.2666 stock ratio. If you want to get the same as what going up in the front to a 16 or 17 does you would need to get the same ratio as 16f/34b at 2.125 or 17f/34b at 2.000. So to get the same as going up to 16 up front a gear ratio ~2.125 you would need a 14f/30b at 2.1428 or to get the same as going up to a 17 in the front you would need 14f/28b. Hope this helps!
Yo, David thanks for messaging. The foot pegs are Two Brothers Racing pegs. Got ‘em on Amazon. They are quality. So much better than the rubber top ones it came with. I honestly forgot I changed those until you just mentioned it 😅
@@EASTSIDEMINIBIKES92 stock motor, stock clutch, just have oil pick up mod, exhaust and intake and tune and that’s it, I’ll have it pinned full throttle everywhere I go, and I’m almost hitting 15k miles now.
Hey yeah I went with the PBI sprockets on Amazon. But the holes in the sprocket were smaller than the bolts on the sprocket hub. So I had to drill out the holes to be larger to fit. I explain more in the video. Hope this helps! PBI Sprockets Aluminum Fits Honda Grom Rear Sprocket www.amazon.com/dp/B00X41QBPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_9S0GS3KA3YWEMP2ZSCSP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
@@snapdrag141 hey, I definitely could have used the stock chain but I decided to get a new one just so it was new chain and gears starting off together plus it keeps my old chain warn to my old gear ratio if I ever want to switch back. I had to use 4 less links on the chain to make it fit with the smaller sprockets too.
@CircumventStance correct. At least that’s what I had to go with to keep the tire in the middle of the chain tensioner with room for the chain to expand. But yeah you can just get a $20 chain breaker and take off the 4 chain links really easily.
Sorry, 😞 I don’t have a camera for recording while riding. But it’s no different than if you just changed the front sprocket to 16 or 17 but with the slightest bit more pep to it. 🤷♂️ nothing too special. just helps reduce rotational mass of the drivetrain.
Hey sorry I got it last summer and I can’t seem to find the link anymore on Amazon. I thought I commented it to someone in these comments but I’m not sure who it was to.
Hey thanks for commenting. I got these “carbon fiber” looking ones on Amazon. $23. 8mm 10mm Carbon Motorcycle Rearview Side Mirrors For Honda Grom CRF250L Kawasaki Yamaha www.amazon.com/dp/B07VQG2G3P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_KYYE2K7KQ9YJ8PSDXQ9T?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 But I didn’t anticipate them being so low so I had to also purchased these risers for it because they were wayy to low going right into the original holes. These sit perfectly now and I actually can use them as mirrors now. They move around a little bit more than I like on big bumps but I just need to take some sandpaper to the inside cup to give it a bit of a grip to the ball. But also to be honest I actually really like the angled look of the straight risers to the two angled mirror mounts. It gives it a little bit of character to the front look. I also have two boss speakers that I put onto the handlebars now and I’m going to be adding hand guards too. Xitomer Aftermarket Mirror Risers, 4 pcs M10 x 1.25 Motorcycle Rear View Mirror Extenders 40mm, Fit for YAMAHA MT-09, HONDA CB1000R/ Grom MSX125, KAWASAKI, SUZUKI, Aprilia, Aluminum CNC www.amazon.com/dp/B086JHMYSN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_QDCAA00TBD84CCVB2562?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Hey thanks for commenting. No ride camera. But it’s no different that just upping the front sprocket alone. So you’ll get just about the exact same performance but drop a little weight.
Hey PistoN GaminG. Thanks for messaging. So if you make the same change as I did to 13/31 or 14/31 you can use the stock chain length but you will need to remove 4 links from the original chain length. I don’t know the exact number of links in the stock chain link though off the top of my head, just that you will need to use 4 less links than the stock chain length. Hope this helps!
@@HeatAndPower great thanks for your helpful reply. Did you feel any difference from stock ? Top end wise ? Am looking to increase the top speed as my bike isn’t for stunts or anything just a crusier
Yes I would highly suggest the 13f/31b upgrade. If you have everything else on the bike stock. I have the intake and exhaust upgrades to add on but I’m waiting for a PCV to come out for the 2022 or I may just go with the PowerVision and just reflash to get 0.75-1.25 extra unicorn power out of the engine. When I finally do that I’ll probably switch over to the 14f/31b again with the little bit more “umph” available. Lol when it’s only getting 8-9hp an additional 0.75-1.25hp is a about a 10-15% increase in power 😂😅
This is what I wrote to someone else as well. Hope it helps. It should increase your top speed. However because on the 2022 groms the 5th gear is quite a bit taller than 4th gear when you make the change to the 13/31 if you want to see the top end speed you have to get into the rpm range for 5th gear to actually take you up. So that means you really have to use 4th gear all the way to the end. But when you do and you switch into 5th gear you will be in the above 55mph range and at about 6000rpm right where the torque band of the engine is. I have no issue cruising around in 5th gear at 60-65 and I’m not even at redline to stay there. I’ve GPS’d my max speed at 70mph and I’m 210lbs without any gear on and I did that with at least 30-40lbs of gear and backpack weight. But I really must emphasize using all of 4th gear because if you switch into 5th gear at around 40-45 you won’t have the torque to get you up over 50+. Again this has to do with the fact that 5th gear is really an “overspeed” gear for cruising. If I remember correctly, for stock, the jump from first gear to 2nd gear is really small. But then 2 to 3 and 3 to 4 are pretty normal in jump up. But then 4 to 5 is a pretty big jump for the cruising. They attempted to get the higher speed and lower gear ratio, and coincidentally lower RPMs for higher velocity cruising, without compromising the lower gear stacks from the old groms. But to be 100% honest my favorite part about this change to 13/31 is that first gear is MUCH longer. Like you don’t have to shift into 2nd like immediately after starting from stop. 1st gear feels like it goes much further and makes city riding just that much more comfortable too. I can’t say this for fact but it seems like the gear ratios are set up for euro or Asian kph standard speeds. Which I always feel like is slightly lower than here in America. For example like the common 55-70kph (35-45mph)road in most countries is commonly a 55mph road in America. So it seems like the stock gear ratio (15/38 or 2.5333) has the 4th and 5th gear set that the cruising rpm puts you in the best torque/power band for acceleration form a slightly slower speed. But with the change to the 13/31 or ~2.3846 it seems to put the RPMs with the torque power and for around 45-55mph. Like driving around stock at 45mph I feel like it’a too high of an rpm for cruising in 4th gear but still too low of an rpm for cruising in 5th gear. Where as with the 13/31 I feel like 4th gear is perfect for cruising around at 45mph now snd 5th gear is great for 55-65 cruising. And honestly once you get into the power and torque band for the motor (5500-9000rpm) in 5th gear you actually still get some decent pull when cruising around at 55-65mph. Which at first seemed really counter intuitive when I originally made the change. Because I would be in 5th gear going 45 and I’ll hit a moderate sized hill and I’ll start scrubbing speed. (and I live in southeast Michigan where it’s basically flat so by moderate hill I mean like a slight incline 😂) but another day I was going through the same area late at night with no traffic going 55 up the same moderate incline and I was able to actually accelerate going up it. So just be aware of using your gears within the appropriate torque and power band rpm range when you make the change. I hope this helps and wasn’t just a bunch of rambling!
Hey Marshall 3498, thanks for commenting! So the SP model does not come with ABS on the front brakes. ABS is definitely a good feature if you are a newer rider. It helps mostly if you’re not “trained/practiced” at not locking up the front tire in an emergency situation. I believe abs is becoming more of a standard feature for a lot more higher end bikes but the grom is a much more low risk kinda ride, in that it can’t go all that fast. Not to make it sound like abs is a “beginner rider” feature because it’s not, I just personally didn’t find it as necessary to get for my grom. So it’s really rider preference if you would prefer to have abs on your grom or not.
So just as an update, I just went and did a change of the 14t front sprocket down to a 13t coupled with the 31t rear. For reference: stock->15t/38t - 2.533 Usual change->17t/38t - 2.2352 First change->14t/31t - 2.2142 Newest setting->13t/31t - 2.3846 I wanted to see if I could gain a little acceleration back without going all the way back to stock. So I can still get slightly higher speeds. Did a few rides the last two days with it and I actually like it a little better. It makes the bike feel a little more playful in average city riding. I don’t do much 60+ riding with this bike so having that highest top speed available was not really necessary for me and I’d prefer to get a little more torque to the wheel back for zipping around downtown. I will Probabaly go back up to the 14t on the front when I do the exhaust, intake, and PCV mods to the bike and gain a little bit out of it though. I do like having 1st go higher than it did with stock though. The extra 13t gear was only like $10 extra too so it’s cheap to make the adjustment. Not to mention the 13t fit perfect with where the length of the chain was already at from the 14t/31t before. Hope this update helps!
I cruise around all day long at 50-60 and I have a milkcrate strapped to my pillion rack and the max I’ve seen was 70 on my phone gps, not speedometer, but that was without the milk crate on.
U know when u change the front sprocket it has the opposite effect as changing the back sprocket. Bigger in the front equals longer gears and bigger in the back equals shorter gears
Hey thanks for your comment but I think you missed part of the video. Both gears are changed. it was originally 15/38 ~2.5333 and I changed it to 14/31 ~2.2132. Changing both to 14/31 is just about the same as going to 17 on the front with stock rear for 17/38 ~2.2352 but you don’t have to grind away on the inside of the sprocket cover to fit the larger front gear and chain. So you in fact can reduce the back while reducing the front to still get a longer overall gear ratio.
It should increase your top speed. However because on the 2022 groms the 5th gear is quite a bit taller than 4th gear when you make the change to the 13/31 if you want to see the top end speed you have to get into the rpm range for 5th gear to actually take you up. So that means you really have to use 4th gear all the way to the end. But when you do and you switch into 5th gear you will be in the above 55mph range and at about 6000rpm right where the torque band of the engine is. I have no issue cruising around in 5th gear at 60-65 and I’m not even at redline to stay there. I’ve GPS’d my max speed at 70mph and I’m 210lbs without any gear on and I did that with at least 30-40lbs of gear and backpack weight. But I really must emphasize using all of 4th gear because if you switch into 5th gear at around 40-45 you won’t have the torque to get you up over 50+. Again this has to do with the fact that 5th gear is really an “overspeed” gear for cruising. If I remember correctly, for stock, the jump from first gear to 2nd gear is really small. But then 2 to 3 and 3 to 4 are pretty normal in jump up. But then 4 to 5 is a pretty big jump for the cruising. They attempted to get the higher speed and lower gear ratio, and coincidentally lower RPMs for higher velocity cruising, without compromising the lower gear stacks from the old groms. But to be 100% honest my favorite part about this change to 13/31 is that first gear is MUCH longer. Like you don’t have to shift into 2nd like immediately after starting from stop. 1st gear feels like it goes much further and makes city riding just that much more comfortable too. I can’t say this for fact but it seems like the gear ratios are set up for euro or Asian kph standard speeds. Which I always feel like is slightly lower than here in America. For example like the common 55-70kph (35-45mph)road in most countries is commonly a 55mph road in America. So it seems like the stock gear ratio (15/38 or 2.5333) has the 4th and 5th gear set that the cruising rpm puts you in the best torque/power band for acceleration form a slightly slower speed. But with the change to the 13/31 or ~2.3846 it seems to put the RPMs with the torque power and for around 45-55mph. Like driving around stock at 45mph I feel like it’a too high of an rpm for cruising in 4th gear but still too low of an rpm for cruising in 5th gear. Where as with the 13/31 I feel like 4th gear is perfect for cruising around at 45mph now snd 5th gear is great for 55-65 cruising. And honestly once you get into the power and torque band for the motor (5500-9000rpm) in 5th gear you actually still get some decent pull when cruising around at 55-65mph. Which at first seemed really counter intuitive when I originally made the change. Because I would be in 5th gear going 45 and I’ll hit a moderate sized hill and I’ll start scrubbing speed. (and I live in southeast Michigan where it’s basically flat so by moderate hill I mean like a slight incline 😂) but another day I was going through the same area late at night with no traffic going 55 up the same moderate incline and I was able to actually accelerate going up it. So just be aware of using your gears within the appropriate torque and power band rpm range when you make the change. I hope this helps and wasn’t just a bunch of rambling!
@@HeatAndPower I actually switched over to 13-31 after I saw this video and I love the difference! The speedometer actually matches the gps speed now, I haven't don't a top pull yet but can tell it's gonna be tough somewhat. I have the dhm intake and exhaust tune and weigh about 195, I'm loving the low end power now and first gear is much longer. Easily pulls above 20mph. I think with the cam and high compression piston it'll help with the top end power Have you run 15-31 yet?
Oh yeah no I haven’t gone to the 15/31 yet. I will Der be going back to the 14/31 once I finally to my intake and exhaust + ecu flash or PCV if they finally come out with one. After going down to the 13 from the 14 I liked the 13 better but I have a feeling with that little bit more power the 14 and maybe 15 will be very comfortable with its power/torque increases, small as they might be adding 0.75-1.25hp to an already stock 8-9hp engine is still a 10-15% increase in power 🤷♂️
Hey Grinch Don, Because you have to grind away on the sprocket cover to fit the chain and 16t on the front. Also because reducing the the rear sprocket with the front the correct way reduces the rotational mass of the drivetrain and reduces the moment of inertia of the sprocket/tire. it also reduces the chain by 4 links. So all in all that rotational mass reduction can either save gas or increase available power/torque to the wheels, not by much but a bit.
Even if you kept the same gear ratio as stock 15t/38t (2.5333) but went with 13t/33t (2.5384) and reduced the chain by 3 links you would gain a little torque and power to the wheels that would have been previously gone to just spinning up the mass of the drivetrain along with propelling it forward. Again, not a lot, but some. And when going to a lower gear ratio like going up to 16t front only you sacrifice acceleration/torque to gain higher speeds or lower cruising RPMs. so to do the gear up while gaining some of that torque to the wheels back, with this front and back change, is the most beneficial change you can do to get the same change in gear ratio.
Hey Trailmeister, thanks for commenting. So unless you have the ability to drill out the holes on the 31t sprocket that I purchased you will need to find a different one that will properly fit the studs on the wheel hub without needing to be altered. But parts list was just JT 420 Chain on Amazon JT 14t 420 sprocket on Amazon PBI 31t Rear Sprocket for grom on Amazon
I went with the PBI sprockets on Amazon. But the holes in the sprocket were smaller than the bolts on the sprocket hub. So I had to drill out the holes to be larger to fit. I explain more in the video. Hope this helps! PBI Sprockets Aluminum Fits Honda Grom Rear Sprocket www.amazon.com/dp/B00X41QBPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_9S0GS3KA3YWEMP2ZSCSP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Correct. They sell a speedo fix for this because the speedometer sensor is in the trans. But I used a gps speedometer when I tested my top speeds. Currently the speedometer now shows that I’m going slower than I actually am. For the 14:31 change when the speedometer on the grom reads 35mph my gps would read 39-40mph. My top speed from my gps was 70-71mph the last time I tested it. I know have it setup with 13/31 for a little more torque and now when my grom speedometer says 35 I’m going about 37-38 on my gps. Haven’t done a top speed run yet with this set up because it’s now below like 10°f out.
So just as an update, I just went and did a change of the 14t front sprocket down to a 13t coupled with the 31t rear. For reference: stock->15t/38t - 2.533 Usual change->17t/38t - 2.2352 First change->14t/31t - 2.2142 Newest setting->13t/31t - 2.3846 I wanted to see if I could gain a little acceleration back without going all the way back to stock. So I can still get slightly higher speeds. Did a few rides the last two days with it and I actually like it a little better. It makes the bike feel a little more playful in average city riding. I don’t do much 60+ riding with this bike so having that highest top speed available was not really necessary for me and I’d prefer to get a little more torque to the wheel back for zipping around downtown. I will Probabaly go back up to the 14t on the front when I do the exhaust, intake, and PCV mods to the bike and gain a little bit out of it though. I do like having 1st go higher than it did with stock though. The extra 13t gear was only like $10 extra too so it’s cheap to make the adjustment. Not to mention the 13t fit perfect with where the length of the chain was already at from the 14t/31t before. Hope this update helps!
![FORTNITE CLASSICS IS BACK! Fortnite Item Shop [November 15th, 2024] (Fortnite Chapter 5)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RbQURbeFwqs/mqdefault.jpg)
So just as an update, I just went and did a change of the 14t front sprocket down to a 13t coupled with the 31t rear. For reference:
stock->15t/38t - 2.533
Usual change->17t/38t - 2.2352
First change->14t/31t - 2.2142
Other change->16/38 - 2.375
Newest setting->13t/31t - 2.3846
I wanted to see if I could gain a little acceleration back without going all the way back to stock. So I can still get slightly higher speeds. Did a few rides the last two days with it and I actually like it a little better. It makes the bike feel a little more playful in average city riding. I don’t do much 60+ riding with this bike so having that highest top speed available was not really necessary for me and I’d prefer to get a little more torque to the wheel back for zipping around downtown. I will Probabaly go back up to the 14t on the front when I do the exhaust, intake, and PCV mods to the bike and gain a little bit out of it though.
I do like having 1st go higher than it did with stock though. The extra 13t gear was only like $10 extra too so it’s cheap to make the adjustment. Not to mention the 13t fit perfect with where the length of the chain was already at from the 14t/31t before.
Hope this update helps!
Awesome info! Even though im squatch sized I really like the idea of having a Grom to bop around town & to work, would need all the oomph I can get!
Hey thanks! I’m glad I could help!
In all honesty the lighter you are the better this change will be for you because you’re bike doesn’t need as much low end torque to get the same acceleration as someone heavier than you. So giving up a little low end torque/acceleration to get more high speed is a bit less of a give and take for a lighter rider. Not to mention lighter riders have a lower rolling resistance so you’ll have more torque to the tires at the higher speeds too. The bike is only like 250lbs wet. I’m 210lbs, 250lbs with gear and a backpack. So 500lbs total for me. Now compare that to a small rider of say 125lbs, 150lbs with gear, that’s only 400lbs total. So because rolling resistance is almost directly linear with total weight, a rider that much lighter than me could see 20% less rolling resistance at high speeds giving more power/torque to the wheels for acceleration or even higher speeds.
Hope that makes sense! Let me know if it didn’t! 😅
really wish you did a top speed run.
Sorry, 😞 I don’t have a camera for recording while riding. But it’s no different than if you just changed the front sprocket to 16 or 17 but with the slightest bit more pep to it. 🤷♂️ nothing too special just helps reduce rotational mass of the drivetrain.
Heck yeah, always nice to see people trying different routes! I'm super anxious to see if you try and tackle the turbine project on it, that would be crazy!
Hey thanks HondaPro Kevin! Yeah I’m REALLY excited to start doing that. I have a little bit more R&D to do with them to make them perfectly viable for the groms but it won’t be long! Retrofit bolt on kits will just perfect for it. I may attempt just making some Tesla Turbine Turbochargers to go inline with the exhaust/intake for the time being but we shall see. Like I literally shouldn’t have to do anything to the solar powered steam turbines we are making except make a special bolt on kit for it to mate up with the transmissions housing and make a combustion chamber leading to the variable nozzles lol Tesla actually has a multi fluid (steam + Combustion) improvement patent of his disc turbine. Check it out it’s US Patent Number 186,083. It’s rather beautiful and simple.
Thanks again for your grom videos!
Ohh and anyone who’s wondering “What Turbines?!” Check out my other RUclips channel where I have been doing R&D on Nikola Tesla’s Disc Turbines for combustion’s and off grid solar steam purposes! Latest dyno tests for the 10in turbine show a peak of 3.2hp and 5.02ft-lbs of torque @~4500rpm and a sustained 2.5hp from 5000rpm-8000rpm all just with room temp compressed air tests and not heat addition which is really where the power comes from!
ruclips.net/video/2aSbRT3tlUM/видео.html
So just as an update, I just went and did a change of the 14t front sprocket down to a 13t coupled with the 31t rear. For reference:
stock->15t/38t - 2.533
Usual change->17t/38t - 2.2352
First change->14t/31t - 2.2142
Newest setting->13t/31t - 2.3846
I wanted to see if I could gain a little acceleration back without going all the way back to stock. So I can still get slightly higher speeds. Did a few rides the last two days with it and I actually like it a little better. It makes the bike feel a little more playful in average city riding. I don’t do much 60+ riding with this bike so having that highest top speed available was not really necessary for me and I’d prefer to get a little more torque to the wheel back for zipping around downtown. I will Probabaly go back up to the 14t on the front when I do the exhaust, intake, and PCV mods to the bike and gain a little bit out of it though.
I do like having 1st go higher than it did with stock though. The extra 13t gear was only like $10 extra too so it’s cheap to make the adjustment. Not to mention the 13t fit perfect with where the length of the chain was already at from the 14t/31t before.
Hope this update helps!
Hey HondaPro Kevin! I’ve got updates on my turbine combustion system for the bigger turbine I’m building!! As soon as I show this working we are going to miniaturize it for the Grom!!
Tesla Turbine Combustion GB186,083 gasoline fuel water cooled burner atomizer detonation super steam
ruclips.net/video/gRqKowignac/видео.html
You description was spot on an well said. Subscribed and looking forward to my new grom in the near future
Hey thank you AbeLinkinXVI! Hope you enjoy your grom! It was worth every penny for me! Especially with gas prices these days. You can’t beat 140miles per gallon.
I did the 12/28 ratio and can confirm this adds significant speed and acceleration but it also adds to chain wear and helps if you make sure to stagger the alignment of the links. I forgot exactly how your supposed to do this but your basically making sure the sprockets teeth will touch every link instead of them constantly meshing with the same teeth and not having all the teeth touch all the links is the Geist of the work around to help with the wear issue of smaller sprockets.
Love the SP edition bro! Thanks for sharing!🔥🔥🔥
Thanks M1000RR! Nice helmet btw. Looks sharp!
Such a better way to do the top speed! Way to go!
Hey thanks TesTur Energy! I’m extremely pleased with the final results and I can’t wait to go back up to the 15t front sprocket once I get these performance mods done!
Are you going to keep the 31t in the rear still?
@@jmiller7693 hey thanks for commenting. So first off, YES I am keeping it. I wrote out a better explanation to a previous commenter who was wondering the same thing so I’ll copy and paste that info here to.
So just as a starting comment.
I. ABSOLUTELY. LOVE IT!! I need to give it just a little bit more throttle on immediate take off to start it moving but once it’s locked in with the engine in first gear it pulls and I do not feel like I’ve lost any take off. In fact just about most cars would pull away from me on starts before and now unless a car is like “racing” away I never feel like I’m trying to keep up. And I usually take off faster than most compact cars now too and I still baby the throttle lol don’t expect like a TON of power out of it though. And just for the record so no one scorns me, technically it’s not “making more power” it’s “making power available that was previously being lost”. So either way, if you do this and don’t plan to drive it “faster/harder” ie doing all the same accelerations as before, you’ll save on gas 🤷♂️ so it’s a win win regardless.
For me getting a little bit more time before having to shift to second also was a very nice change. First gear before just felt so short.
Lastly i really REALLY like using this new setup because it seems to put my cruising speeds in a better torque/power band of the engine. Like downshifting to pass someone just puts it right where I want the engine to be for most torque/power to take off at speed. again I’m not talking like HUGE changes or anything. The bike just seems to like these ranges a little bit better for the speeds and roads that I’ve been driving around on, which is all 25, 30-35, 45 and 55 mph roads (I usually drive 0-5mph over given the road). Being in third gear cruising downtown at 25mph puts me right at 4500-5000rpm and then if I need to accelerate it’s just throttle because I still have all the top end of 3rd to go and I believe the power/torque band of the new grom really peaks between 5000 and 8000. I think I mentioned this in the video but it also puts the engine in a nicer rpm that gives a little bit deeper of a hum to it being in lower RPMs but that’s really just personal preference.
I will say the only issue is I don’t have a Speedo healer so my dash reads me going slower than I actually am. I used a gps speedometer and at 35mph on the dash the gps says I’m actually going 40.
I took it on a quick strip of highway yesterday and in full tuck flat ground pinned I got it up to 70mph on my gps. And before my max speed pinned was like 60-62 going slightly downhill (I weigh 210lbs as well just for the record)
As for the intake, exhaust, PCV+auto tuner (PCV for 2022 isn’t out yet just FYI.) I haven’t yet put them in. so all of these points I’m making are entirely just from changing the sprockets alone. Also I do not suggest this exact gear ratio if you plan on doing any stunting as it will reduce the torque a little for “poppin mega dank nooners” or at least I’m not skilled enough to do it with this gearing 😂😂😂 but that being said you can still get the higher than stock gear ratio while still using this principle of reducing the rear sprocket. I think most drop to a 14 in the front for wheelies and stunting so that would be 14t/38t @2.7142 to just change the front on stock. So to achieve that a 13t/35t @2.6923 or (if they make a 12t front for the grom 🤷♂️ idk if they do) 12t/32t @2.6666 or 12t/33t @2.7500 ratios.
@@jmiller7693 but as well I finally got to go out riding with a buddy who also has the new 2022 grom. He has a yoshi pipe on his though with stock gearing and he’s about 30lbs lighter than me and he definitely gets the pull on me off the line, which is to be expected changing the gearing like this but honestly not by much. like it’s close enough that I’m wondering what it would be like if we were the same weight because 30lbs is a big weight difference.
@@jmiller7693 So just as an update, I just went and did a change of the 14t front sprocket down to a 13t coupled with the 31t rear. For reference:
stock->15t/38t - 2.533
Usual change->17t/38t - 2.2352
First change->14t/31t - 2.2142
Newest setting->13t/31t - 2.3846
I wanted to see if I could gain a little acceleration back without going all the way back to stock. So I can still get slightly higher speeds. Did a few rides the last two days with it and I actually like it a little better. It makes the bike feel a little more playful in average city riding. I don’t do much 60+ riding with this bike so having that highest top speed available was not really necessary for me and I’d prefer to get a little more torque to the wheel back for zipping around downtown. I will Probabaly go back up to the 14t on the front when I do the exhaust, intake, and PCV mods to the bike and gain a little bit out of it though.
I do like having 1st go higher than it did with stock though. The extra 13t gear was only like $10 extra too so it’s cheap to make the adjustment. Not to mention the 13t fit perfect with where the length of the chain was already at from the 14t/31t before.
Hope this update helps!
I just ordered a 14/35 for my 22 Grom. With your 13/31 sprockets being so much smaller, does the chain rub on the swing arm pivot when you go over bumps? Great video, Thanks!
Perhaps the better question is how much faster is your chain slider wearing out with the much smaller sprockets and narrowed gap between the top and bottom of the chain?
@@davidwilliams3376 hey I haven’t noticed any issues so far but but I’ll have to take a closer look to be sure.
In for the build. A few weeks behind you!
Heck yeah! The gear change was a pretty quick and easy change to make. It’s more work than changing the exhaust but less than doing the chimera intake. Let me know what you think! I’d love to hear your feedback.
I finally got to go out riding with a buddy who also has the new 2022 grom. He has a yoshi pipe on his though with stock gearing and he’s about 30lbs lighter than me and he definitely gets the pull on me off the line but honestly not by much. like it’s close enough that I’m wondering what it would be like if we were the same weight because 30lbs is a big eight difference.
What all are you doing to your bike?
@@HeatAndPower That's fantastic! I think 30 lbs is a lot - but no one owns a grom because we're going to set land speed records! lol
@@HeatAndPower I'm not yet determined what is the end goal for the grom. I've got the TST fender eliminator, integrated tail light, and shaves front blinkers. I've got some new mirrors.
It's going to live on the back of the van and I'm going to throw on knobby tires this winter when we're down in Florida and ride it off road and when we head out west. It'll get a lot of use in Utah in the winter and spring.
I think I'll do the sprockets, chain, chan adjusters, when I do the tires and probably throw a baja designs light on the front. I'll do the levers at some point in between.
I'm really torn as to intake and exhaust. I really like the Toce undertail pipes that aren't out yet. I could also be pursued if someone made the exhaust that comes off to the side and doesn't run under the bottom. So I think intake and exhaust will need to wait until we get some more options into the market.
So just as an update, I just went and did a change of the 14t front sprocket down to a 13t coupled with the 31t rear. For reference:
stock->15t/38t - 2.533
Usual change->17t/38t - 2.2352
First change->14t/31t - 2.2142
Newest setting->13t/31t - 2.3846
I wanted to see if I could gain a little acceleration back without going all the way back to stock. So I can still get slightly higher speeds. Did a few rides the last two days with it and I actually like it a little better. It makes the bike feel a little more playful in average city riding. I don’t do much 60+ riding with this bike so having that highest top speed available was not really necessary for me and I’d prefer to get a little more torque to the wheel back for zipping around downtown. I will Probabaly go back up to the 14t on the front when I do the exhaust, intake, and PCV mods to the bike and gain a little bit out of it though.
I do like having 1st go higher than it did with stock though. The extra 13t gear was only like $10 extra too so it’s cheap to make the adjustment. Not to mention the 13t fit perfect with where the length of the chain was already at from the 14t/31t before.
Hope this update helps!
How are you liking this set up with the aftermarket parts installed?
Still a 13/31?
I absolutely love it. With the stock engine. Kept the 13/31 for now. I’m waiting for my warranty period to be over before putting on the aftermarket engine parts. Which will be near the end of the summer. So pretty soon! I will have an update video here in the near future too. I’m trying to save some money to get a camera for riding so I can record it.
Anyone rock the 14/31 with the 4 speed grom clone. Let u know when it comes. Also ordered a 15. Mine comes 14/34. Good video. Appreciate u
thanks for the info fello Michigander lol deft am going to order the 14t & 31t here soon. not sure where at in mi you are but im in the tri-citys and would be cool to meet some ppl out riding
Hey!! Just seeing you comment! I’m in the Detroit area. In Warren. Which “tri-city” area are you at? I’m also always looking for others to ride with.
@@HeatAndPower Saginaw and thats dope not far at all
Oh yeah dang that’s not far at all!
13t front , 31t back for more speed?
Can u do a video of u riding it? I'm looking at buying one next year and seeing g what I should do to the grom. And I think this helped alot thanks.
Hey Dustin! Thanks for commenting! So I’m working on acquiring a go pro to be able to do some actual video of my rides. But until then I don’t have a safe and reliable way to be able to film and ride at the same time. I will soon though!
So just as an update, I just went and did a change of the 14t front sprocket down to a 13t coupled with the 31t rear. For reference:
stock->15t/38t - 2.533
Usual change->17t/38t - 2.2352
First change->14t/31t - 2.2142
Newest setting->13t/31t - 2.3846
I wanted to see if I could gain a little acceleration back without going all the way back to stock. So I can still get slightly higher speeds. Did a few rides the last two days with it and I actually like it a little better. It makes the bike feel a little more playful in average city riding. I don’t do much 60+ riding with this bike so having that highest top speed available was not really necessary for me and I’d prefer to get a little more torque to the wheel back for zipping around downtown. I will Probabaly go back up to the 14t on the front when I do the exhaust, intake, and PCV mods to the bike and gain a little bit out of it though.
I do like having 1st go higher than it did with stock though. The extra 13t gear was only like $10 extra too so it’s cheap to make the adjustment. Not to mention the 13t fit perfect with where the length of the chain was already at from the 14t/31t before.
Hope this update helps!
Did u update any more videos?
Not yet. But I will soon. I’m still working on trying to find a GoPro for filming while riding.
You really don't need the power command 5 system all you need to do is up the fuel injector to a slightly bigger one they make different fuel injectors that can move more fuel each time it says to do so.
Have u made a video with this gear set up since u did the Intake exhaust and programmer ?
Still working on doing the upgrades.
My warranty ended like last week and I was waiting for that to end to do them.
Now I just gotta find the time to do it all. 😅
Grom has an awesome mpg imo. Did your set up improve the og mpg after removing the rear sprocket or anything?
Check out this cool motorcycle
ruclips.net/video/Y-qS-y4Ok4Y/видео.html
Hey thanks for reaching out! It’s hard to say because I don’t have the speedo healer. I honestly can’t tell the difference in the amount of fuel used.
And as you said the fuel economy is already so dang high even if it did lower a little the change in the feeling of how it rides now is sooo worth it.
Just having first gear not be so dang short alone made this bike more enjoyable to ride.
But that just my experience.
It would be interesting to see how this altered fuel mileage.
I would love to know as well
I’ll get you better numbers over this summer. Had the bike in the garage all winter.
Also, in other news I’ve been very busy with my other channel and the Micro Turbines that I build. Hoping to be able to swap out my grom 125 engine with one of my combustion turbines.
Check out my latest 2.75kW and 6.22ft-lbs of torque at ~4150rpm with just room temp compressed air!
ruclips.net/user/shortsyXQy844URMA?feature=share
What foot pegs do you have on there? I'm picking up my Grom in a couple of days and it's one thing I really want to upgrade.
Hey Ahrian Jones! Yay congrats on getting your grom! Also thanks for commenting! I went with the Two brother racing foot pegs. I very much recommend them. The stock ones with the rubber tops were very annoying. And honestly a bit slipper if even slightly wet. But yeah the TBR foot pegs are great and give me SOO much more traction to the bike.
I would suggest to change your shifter to be rotated up one spline to be a little bit more angled up with these foot pegs. They have a bit of a flatter top to them compared to the stock so I just had to work a little more to get my foot under the shifter in it’s stock position but now that I switched the shifters position it sits with perfect ergonomics. But this was just my personal preference and you may like the shifter just fine in the stock position. It was a 2 minute change to adjust the shifter so go with whatever feels most comfortable for you.
Thanks again for commenting!
@@HeatAndPower awesome man thanks for the advice
@@Squire333 you’re welcome! Be safe out there and keep the rubber side down!
@@Squire333 So just as an update, I just went and did a change of the 14t front sprocket down to a 13t coupled with the 31t rear. For reference:
stock->15t/38t - 2.533
Usual change->17t/38t - 2.2352
First change->14t/31t - 2.2142
Newest setting->13t/31t - 2.3846
I wanted to see if I could gain a little acceleration back without going all the way back to stock. So I can still get slightly higher speeds. Did a few rides the last two days with it and I actually like it a little better. It makes the bike feel a little more playful in average city riding. I don’t do much 60+ riding with this bike so having that highest top speed available was not really necessary for me and I’d prefer to get a little more torque to the wheel back for zipping around downtown. I will Probabaly go back up to the 14t on the front when I do the exhaust, intake, and PCV mods to the bike and gain a little bit out of it though.
I do like having 1st go higher than it did with stock though. The extra 13t gear was only like $10 extra too so it’s cheap to make the adjustment. Not to mention the 13t fit perfect with where the length of the chain was already at from the 14t/31t before.
Hope this update helps!
How does it feel after a few days? I don't want to do to many mods for power, But I do want to make a little more power without having to spend a ton of money!?
I. ABSOLUTELY. LOVE IT!! I need to give it just a little bit more throttle on immediate take off to start it moving but once it’s locked in with the engine in first gear it pulls and I do not feel like I’ve lost any take off. In fact just about most cars would pull away from me on starts before and now unless a car is like “racing” away I never feel like I’m trying to keep up. And I usually take off faster than most compact cars now too and I still baby the throttle lol don’t expect like a TON of power out of it though. And just for the record so no one scorns me, technically it’s not “making more power” it’s “making power available that was previously being lost”. So either way, if you do this and don’t plan to drive it “faster/harder” ie doing all the same accelerations as before, you’ll save on gas 🤷♂️ so it’s a win win regardless.
For me getting a little bit more time before having to shift to second also was a very nice change. First gear before just felt so short.
Lastly i really REALLY like using this new setup because it seems to put my cruising speeds in a better torque/power band of the engine. Like downshifting to pass someone just puts it right where I want the engine to be for most torque/power to take off at speed. again I’m not talking like HUGE changes or anything. The bike just seems to like these ranges a little bit better for the speeds and roads that I’ve been driving around on, which is all 25, 30-35, 45 and 55 mph roads (I usually drive 0-5mph over given the road). Being in third gear cruising downtown at 25mph puts me right at 4500-5000rpm and then if I need to accelerate it’s just throttle because I still have all the top end of 3rd to go and I believe the power/torque band of the new grom really peaks between 5000 and 8000. I think I mentioned this in the video but it also puts the engine in a nicer rpm that gives a little bit deeper of a hum to it being in lower RPMs but that’s really just personal preference.
I will say the only issue is I don’t have a Speedo healer so my dash reads me going slower than I actually am. I used a gps speedometer and at 35mph on the dash the gps says I’m actually going 40.
I took it on a quick strip of highway yesterday and in full tuck flat ground pinned I got it up to 70mph on my gps. And before my max speed pinned was like 60-62 going slightly downhill (I weigh 210lbs as well just for the record)
As for the intake, exhaust, PCV+auto tuner I haven’t yet put them in. so all of these points I’m making are entirely just from changing the sprockets alone. Also I do not suggest this exact gear ratio if you plan on doing any stunting as it will reduce the torque a little for “poppin mega dank nooners” or at least I’m not skilled enough to do it with this gearing 😂😂😂 but that being said you can still get the higher than stock gear ratio while still using this principle of reducing the rear sprocket. I think most drop to a 14 in the front for wheelies and stunting so that would be 14t/38t @2.7142 to just change the front on stock. So to achieve that a 13t/35t @2.6923 or (if they make a 12t front for the grom 🤷♂️ idk if they do) 12t/32t @2.6666 or 12t/33t @2.7500 ratios.
So just as an update, I just went and did a change of the 14t front sprocket down to a 13t coupled with the 31t rear. For reference:
stock->15t/38t - 2.533
Usual change->17t/38t - 2.2352
First change->14t/31t - 2.2142
Newest setting->13t/31t - 2.3846
I wanted to see if I could gain a little acceleration back without going all the way back to stock. So I can still get slightly higher speeds. Did a few rides the last two days with it and I actually like it a little better. It makes the bike feel a little more playful in average city riding. I don’t do much 60+ riding with this bike so having that highest top speed available was not really necessary for me and I’d prefer to get a little more torque to the wheel back for zipping around downtown. I will Probabaly go back up to the 14t on the front when I do the exhaust, intake, and PCV mods to the bike and gain a little bit out of it though.
I do like having 1st go higher than it did with stock though. The extra 13t gear was only like $10 extra too so it’s cheap to make the adjustment. Not to mention the 13t fit perfect with where the length of the chain was already at from the 14t/31t before.
Hope this update helps!
What was the actual weight reduction when comparing rear sprockets.
To be honest I was in such a hurry to put the new one on when I did it I didn’t even weigh the two but the new one is at least half the weight. Which is still not that much all things considered. But when you only got 8hp available every gram matters lol The additional periphery rim on the original one was super overkill.
John C. Reilly is right best first upgrade 👍🏼
Bahahah 🤓🦾🙏❤️🔥 that’s so funny.
Do
U have a video of the 14 front and 31 rear how it is after u did the intake and all ?
Hey Robert. Unfortunately I don’t have a video since I don’t have a camera for riding. I need to get one but money is right right now. (I’m loving the grom for its 140mpg gas mileage with gas prices right now.) but that being said this is basically the same thing as just switching the stock setup to a 16 or 17 front sprocket with the stock 38 in the back. The gear ratios for the 13 or 14 front with the 31 back are about the same.
But just as an update, I went and did a change of the 14t front sprocket down to a 13t coupled with the 31t rear because I haven’t done the intake or exhaust mods yet. I’m waiting until the one year warranty to be up. For reference:
stock->15t/38t - 2.533
Usual change->17t/38t - 2.2352
First change->14t/31t - 2.2142
Other stock option->16t/38t - 2.375
Newest setting->13t/31t - 2.3846
I wanted to see if I could gain a little acceleration back without going all the way back to stock sprocket ratios. So I can still get slightly higher speeds. Did a few rides the last two days with it and I actually like it a little better. It makes the bike feel a little more playful in average city riding. I don’t do much 60+ riding with this bike so having that highest top speed available was not really necessary for me and I’d prefer to get a little more torque to the wheel back for zipping around downtown. I will Probabaly go back up to the 14t on the front when I do the exhaust, intake, and PCV mods to the bike and gain a little bit out of it though.
I do like having 1st go higher than it did with stock though. The extra 13t gear was only like $10 extra too so it’s cheap to make the adjustment. Not to mention the 13t fit perfect with where the length of the chain was already at from the 14t/31t before.
Hope this update helps!
@@HeatAndPower ok thanks i appreciate it if you can keep me updated once you have the mods done to better help me
Determine what works best .. thanks !!
@@roberthelvick4939 I can certainly do that!
Did you weigh the 2 sprockets i bet they are the same rotational mass.
Definitely not the same. One is a 38 tooth gear with a heavy steal plate washer at its periphery. The other is a 31 tooth 7075 t6 aluminum sprocket. I did not weigh them to give you an exact number but the new one is significantly lighter, relatively speaking that is.
Then on top of that I lost 4 chain links off the chain. Which is rotational mass lost in the drivetrain.
The front 13t sprocket is probably so close in weight to the original 15t though that it doesn’t matter.
But again you’re not going to see like major improvements, but they are there and they are noticeable. When the thing only has 8-9hp gaining any of that back for torque to the wheel is going to help. If we were at 80-90hp I’d say don’t even bother, the gains won’t make much difference.
But again that being said I still did this because it made the 1-4 gears WAYY more ridable for city and suburbs riding. First gear was just abysmally short when stock.
stock sprocket is 397 grams; aftermarket aluminum 34T sprocket is 142 grams. HUGE DIFFERENCE
So between the title.. your words and your pinned comment I am slightly confused lol!!!! Should I go 13/31 or should I go 14/31? 2024 grom if this matters
Can we get a vid of you riding would like to hear what your talking about in 5th
I’m working on getting a camera for riding. Can’t really justify a go pro in my budget at the moment. I’m thanking god that I bought a Grom at the end of last summer that gets 140miles per gallon with gas prices and inflation right right now. This is no different than switching the front sprocket to a 16 or 17 though. just ditching some of that heavy rear sprocket.
13:31 is 2.3845 ratio
16:38 is 2.375 ratio
14:31 is 2.2142
17:38 is 2.2352
So you’ll get just about the same experience but you won’t have to grind away on the sprocket cover to fit the gears.
How much does it change your speedometer and if you figure that out I’m curious how fast you’ve got it with this setup
Hey thanks for commenting VoltageFire So just as a starting comment.
I. ABSOLUTELY. LOVE IT!! I need to give it just a little bit more throttle on immediate take off to start it moving but once it’s locked in with the engine in first gear it pulls and I do not feel like I’ve lost any take off. In fact just about most cars would pull away from me on starts before and now unless a car is like “racing” away I never feel like I’m trying to keep up. And I usually take off faster than most compact cars now too and I still baby the throttle lol don’t expect like a TON of power out of it though. And just for the record so no one scorns me, technically it’s not “making more power” it’s “making power available that was previously being lost”. So either way, if you do this and don’t plan to drive it “faster/harder” ie doing all the same accelerations as before, you’ll save on gas 🤷♂️ so it’s a win win regardless.
For me getting a little bit more time before having to shift to second also was a very nice change. First gear before just felt so short.
Lastly i really REALLY like using this new setup because it seems to put my cruising speeds in a better torque/power band of the engine. Like downshifting to pass someone just puts it right where I want the engine to be for most torque/power to take off at speed. again I’m not talking like HUGE changes or anything. The bike just seems to like these ranges a little bit better for the speeds and roads that I’ve been driving around on, which is all 25, 30-35, 45 and 55 mph roads (I usually drive 0-5mph over given the road). Being in third gear cruising downtown at 25mph puts me right at 4500-5000rpm and then if I need to accelerate it’s just throttle because I still have all the top end of 3rd to go and I believe the power/torque band of the new grom really peaks between 5000 and 8000. I think I mentioned this in the video but it also puts the engine in a nicer rpm that gives a little bit deeper of a hum to it being in lower RPMs but that’s really just personal preference.
I will say the only issue is I don’t have a Speedo healer so my dash reads me going slower than I actually am. I used a gps speedometer and at 35mph on the dash the gps says I’m actually going 40.
I took it on a quick strip of highway yesterday and in full tuck flat ground pinned I got it up to 70mph on my gps. And before my max speed pinned was like 60-62 going slightly downhill (I weigh 210lbs as well just for the record)
As for the intake, exhaust, PCV+auto tuner (PCV for 2022 isn’t out yet just FYI.) I haven’t yet put them in. so all of these points I’m making are entirely just from changing the sprockets alone. Also I do not suggest this exact gear ratio if you plan on doing any stunting as it will reduce the torque a little for “poppin mega dank nooners” or at least I’m not skilled enough to do it with this gearing 😂😂😂 but that being said you can still get the higher than stock gear ratio while still using this principle of reducing the rear sprocket. I think most drop to a 14 in the front for wheelies and stunting so that would be 14t/38t @2.7142 to just change the front on stock. So to achieve that a 13t/35t @2.6923 or (if they make a 12t front for the grom 🤷♂️ idk if they do) 12t/32t @2.6666 or 12t/33t @2.7500 ratios.
@@HeatAndPower good response lol thanks dude
@@VoltageFire you’re welcome! Glad I could help!
@@VoltageFire So just as an update, I just went and did a change of the 14t front sprocket down to a 13t coupled with the 31t rear. For reference:
stock->15t/38t - 2.533
Usual change->17t/38t - 2.2352
First change->14t/31t - 2.2142
Newest setting->13t/31t - 2.3846
I wanted to see if I could gain a little acceleration back without going all the way back to stock. So I can still get slightly higher speeds. Did a few rides the last two days with it and I actually like it a little better. It makes the bike feel a little more playful in average city riding. I don’t do much 60+ riding with this bike so having that highest top speed available was not really necessary for me and I’d prefer to get a little more torque to the wheel back for zipping around downtown. I will Probabaly go back up to the 14t on the front when I do the exhaust, intake, and PCV mods to the bike and gain a little bit out of it though.
I do like having 1st go higher than it did with stock though. The extra 13t gear was only like $10 extra too so it’s cheap to make the adjustment. Not to mention the 13t fit perfect with where the length of the chain was already at from the 14t/31t before.
Hope this update helps!
What top speed you getting? If this is the easy way to get a few more mph i may do it
Hey Asagao! Thanks for commenting! So using my gps speedometer my max speed WOT before was about 60-62mph (I weigh 210lbs) and now my gps Clocks me at 69-70mph at WOT.
But I will follow that up with what I wrote to someone else just so you have all the little ins and outs I have found with this change. Let me know if you have any other questions!
I. ABSOLUTELY. LOVE IT!! I need to give it just a little bit more throttle on immediate take off to start it moving but once it’s locked in with the engine in first gear it pulls and I do not feel like I’ve lost any take off. In fact just about most cars would pull away from me on starts before and now unless a car is like “racing” away I never feel like I’m trying to keep up. And I usually take off faster than most compact cars now too and I still baby the throttle lol don’t expect like a TON of power out of it though. And just for the record so no one scorns me, technically it’s not “making more power” it’s “making power available that was previously being lost”. So either way, if you do this and don’t plan to drive it “faster/harder” ie doing all the same accelerations as before, you’ll save on gas 🤷♂️ so it’s a win win regardless.
For me getting a little bit more time before having to shift to second also was a very nice change. First gear before just felt so short.
Lastly i really REALLY like using this new setup because it seems to put my cruising speeds in a better torque/power band of the engine. Like downshifting to pass someone just puts it right where I want the engine to be for most torque/power to take off at speed. again I’m not talking like HUGE changes or anything. The bike just seems to like these ranges a little bit better for the speeds and roads that I’ve been driving around on, which is all 25, 30-35, 45 and 55 mph roads (I usually drive 0-5mph over given the road). Being in third gear cruising downtown at 25mph puts me right at 4500-5000rpm and then if I need to accelerate it’s just throttle because I still have all the top end of 3rd to go and I believe the power/torque band of the new grom really peaks between 5000 and 8000. I think I mentioned this in the video but it also puts the engine in a nicer rpm that gives a little bit deeper of a hum to it being in lower RPMs but that’s really just personal preference.
I will say the only issue is I don’t have a Speedo healer so my dash reads me going slower than I actually am. I used a gps speedometer and at 35mph on the dash the gps says I’m actually going 40.
I took it on a quick strip of highway yesterday and in full tuck flat ground pinned I got it up to 70mph on my gps. And before my max speed pinned was like 60-62 going slightly downhill (I weigh 210lbs as well just for the record)
As for the intake, exhaust, PCV+auto tuner (PCV for 2022 isn’t out yet just FYI.) I haven’t yet put them in. so all of these points I’m making are entirely just from changing the sprockets alone. Also I do not suggest this exact gear ratio if you plan on doing any stunting as it will reduce the torque a little for “poppin mega dank nooners” or at least I’m not skilled enough to do it with this gearing 😂😂😂 but that being said you can still get the higher than stock gear ratio while still using this principle of reducing the rear sprocket. I think most drop to a 14 in the front for wheelies and stunting so that would be 14t/38t @2.7142 to just change the front on stock. So to achieve that a 13t/35t @2.6923 or (if they make a 12t front for the grom 🤷♂️ idk if they do) 12t/32t @2.6666 or 12t/33t @2.7500 ratios.
And to be honest, if I can get another 1 magical horse power out by adding the exhaust, intake, PCV+autotuner then I may even consider jumping the front back up to a 15 tooth front with the 31t rear to get just that little bit more top end speed. I have a feeling it would be a little underpowered for 5th gear without a little power increase if going back up to the 15t front.
Who knows, after my warranty is up, I may go for the big bore kit and go up to 170cc maybe even 200cc. 🤷♂️ really depends on if I feel like doing to tool time or not. I’m currently immersed in R&D in Tesla Turbines and I’d REALLY like to be able to offer a bolt on retrofit Tesla turbo jet engine replacement for the 4 stroke piston head. That’s still wayyy down the line though at this point.
Check out my other channel and the latest 10in Tesla turbine dyno tests. Not this run but my latest peak output is 3.65hp and 6ft-lbs of torque @4150rpm with just 120psi compressed air.
ruclips.net/user/shorts35QcP9u4O4s?feature=share
@@HeatAndPower haha tru, I got the 5year warranty on mine bcz why not, have put 2k Km's on it since mid July 👀 and I put big blocks on B)
Nice! Rollin that odometer over! Gotta love the unlimited miles/kms on the warranty too. I just crossed 725miles myself. And for it like 3-4weeks ago now I think. I also got a 5 year warranty but i don’t think it includes the engine and stuff, scam I know 😂 but it was the only way I was going to be riding before February because the 5 closest dealers to me were preordered until then but the very last dealer I was going to call, because the next closest after that was like 150 miles away, they had one available but wouldn’t sell it if I didn’t get the 5 year warranty. 🤷♂️ whatever I’d rather be riding today with a smile on my face anyway 😂 but I should be good to mod it to my hearts desire after the original warranty ends.
Which color way did you end up going with? And have you done any cosmetic or other mods?
I'm lookin for the 428 31t rear sprocketfor grom. any ideas of where I can purchase them???
I have 2022 Grom pretty much stock except a tst intake cover and Grom father speed spacers. Just put a 15/35 2.33 55mph running 6250rpm in 5th but can only get top speed of 58 where factory gears I could reach 63-65mph. I'm trying to find the best fuel economy at the 55-60mph range. So debating on 14/34 which would split the two ratios and put my speedometer close to on. Or keep the 15 front and go 36 or 37 in the rear.
Nice! Yeah def gotta test around. Personally I LOVE mine at 13/31. And I still have it stock too. I will be adding more engine mods once I’m passed the 1 year warranty. I cruise around all day long at 50-60 and I have a milkcrate strapped to my pillion rack and the max I’ve seen was 70 on my gps but that was done without the milk crate on.
Your 15/35 is a 2.3333. When I had the 14/31 at 2.2142 it seemed a little underpowered for the ratio. That’s why I went back up to the 13/31 at 2.3846 and it seems like a really good spot for the stock motor. I will be trying to go back up to the 14/31 once I’ve got a little more power out of the engine. 😈
Omg though the best change in all of this is first gear doesn’t last like 1/2 a second now too. Sooo much better.
@@HeatAndPowerhow much you weight?
@@marcosrotllan hey thanks for commenting. 210-215 given how lazy I’ve been the last few weeks.
@@HeatAndPower wow im only 60 lbs... Should i do the same?
You know putting a smaller sprocket on the rears slows acceleration right?
Hey thanks for your comment but that only happens if you don’t also change the front sprocket. I would urge you to watch through this again if you’re still wondering how it works.
Additionally, yes if you change the gear ratio you will reduce torque but increase top end speed. (If the motor can supply the power that is)
Like dropping the front sprocket will increase torque and make it good for wheelies but reduce top end speed. And upping the front sprocket will reduce torque but increase top end speed.
The back sprocket works the opposite.
But it’s still overall gear ratio that matters.
What is the best rear combination for 16t front sprocket? I have one that I haven’t installed yet. I want don’t want to lose torque that much but also gain top end speed.
16/38 = 2.375
I’m riding 13/31 = 2.385
So you could just throw the 16 on if it fits with the stock chain and get a similar result.
Your post is a month old, but if you're still interested. This is my experience with a 16T front sprocket. I installed the 16T front sprocket, and left the factory rear sprocket on my 2022 Grom SP. It made the gears longer, but it absolutely destroyed top end speed. I went from getting 60+ mph in 5th gear, down to barely 55 (It really struggled) on a flat surface. 5th gear is utterly useless. I weigh 170lbs, the Grom is bone stock other than the front sprocket. I had a half tank of fuel on a flat half mile long road, with the throttle wide open. I immediately took it back home and put the 15T back on. Waiting on the 14T to come in now, gonna give that a whirl. Everyone seems to have various different outcomes. I think Charles is spot on when it comes down to rotational mass, and amount of weight you have on the bike. Oh yeah also, the 16T front sprocket will work perfectly with the stock chain. 🤙
@@SCFPV the biggest thing I like about the change is 1st gear actually goes out for a while. I’m not shifting 2 feet into an intersection after starting in 1st gear.
I’ve also noticed that if I don’t fully rev out 4th gear I don’t have enough torque going into 5th gear to get over 60.
You have to shift into 5th when you are in the high torque and power rpm range of the motor and it will take off more. I cruise around at 60-65 all the time on mine. (GPS measured)
The engine doesn’t really output much until about 6000rpm and higher.
But agreed because 5th gear is more like an over speed gear relative to the first 4, you have to drive it a bit different with the change.
Upon making the change, another thing I like is that it seemed the original gearing was designed for cruising around euro or Asian road speed limits 25km/hr 35km/hr +50km/hr. And it felt like when I was cruising around at 25mph, 35mph, +50mph I was a bit high in revs, and shifting up I felt a bit low in the revs.
Now with the 13:31 I feel like the engine sorta “sings” a bit nicer and feels a bit more like there’s “pull” left before having to shift when I’m at each of the US usual speed limit cruising speeds.
Just my experience. 🤷♂️
Nice I just got my first bike and went with a grom cause I have a history of crashing shit so I figured speed is the last thing I need Lol, how often do you lube the chain? Some guy told me every 100 miles
Hey Kim Jong Chill! Congrats on the grom! It’s honestly a great little bike. And you can’t beat the 140 miles per gallon gas mileage with the price of gas these days 😬
As for me… I’m sure I’m not doing it often enough lol I usually do it every 500-1000miles but that’s just me.
If you haven’t yet, check out the RevZilla channel. They have a lot of good how to’s and what not.
This is the one they have for chain maintenance. It’ll have everything you need to know! Cheers!
ruclips.net/video/XgPpLKCUlbA/видео.html
hey sup man thx for the advice. Any updates?
I have a 2015 grom you think your combination works on my grom am 210 also
Hey Sebastian! Thanks for messaging. So you can do the same thing with your older grom but you will need a different rear gear though. If I remember correctly the old ones come stock at 15f/34b back right? So 2.2666 stock ratio. If you want to get the same as what going up in the front to a 16 or 17 does you would need to get the same ratio as 16f/34b at 2.125 or 17f/34b at 2.000. So to get the same as going up to 16 up front a gear ratio ~2.125 you would need a 14f/30b at 2.1428 or to get the same as going up to a 17 in the front you would need 14f/28b.
Hope this helps!
Where did you get the pegs ?
Yo, David thanks for messaging. The foot pegs are Two Brothers Racing pegs. Got ‘em on Amazon. They are quality. So much better than the rubber top ones it came with. I honestly forgot I changed those until you just mentioned it 😅
Go with a 14-35 and you’ll hit 74-75 max tucked , I ride on freeway for 25-30 miles at times commuting and I go places quick 😂
Stock motor..? How much u weigh with that gearing
@@EASTSIDEMINIBIKES92 I weight 195 pounds and I commute on my grom from town to city and everything, sometimes I ride highway if I need too as well.
@@EASTSIDEMINIBIKES92 stock motor, stock clutch, just have oil pick up mod, exhaust and intake and tune and that’s it, I’ll have it pinned full throttle everywhere I go, and I’m almost hitting 15k miles now.
Would a 104 link chain fit 14/36 sprockets?
To be honest I’m not sure off the top of my head.
Do you have a link to the rear sprocket you used?
Hey yeah I went with the PBI sprockets on Amazon. But the holes in the sprocket were smaller than the bolts on the sprocket hub. So I had to drill out the holes to be larger to fit. I explain more in the video. Hope this helps!
PBI Sprockets Aluminum Fits Honda Grom Rear Sprocket www.amazon.com/dp/B00X41QBPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_9S0GS3KA3YWEMP2ZSCSP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
@@HeatAndPower and were you able to use stock chain?
@@snapdrag141 hey, I definitely could have used the stock chain but I decided to get a new one just so it was new chain and gears starting off together plus it keeps my old chain warn to my old gear ratio if I ever want to switch back. I had to use 4 less links on the chain to make it fit with the smaller sprockets too.
@@HeatAndPower oh, so in order to use stock chain I would need to cut 4 links off?
@CircumventStance correct. At least that’s what I had to go with to keep the tire in the middle of the chain tensioner with room for the chain to expand. But yeah you can just get a $20 chain breaker and take off the 4 chain links really easily.
No rolling video?
Sorry, 😞 I don’t have a camera for recording while riding. But it’s no different than if you just changed the front sprocket to 16 or 17 but with the slightest bit more pep to it. 🤷♂️ nothing too special. just helps reduce rotational mass of the drivetrain.
What about the 13 front sprocket can you send me a link please
Hey sorry I got it last summer and I can’t seem to find the link anymore on Amazon. I thought I commented it to someone in these comments but I’m not sure who it was to.
What mirrors are you running?
Hey thanks for commenting. I got these “carbon fiber” looking ones on Amazon. $23.
8mm 10mm Carbon Motorcycle Rearview Side Mirrors For Honda Grom CRF250L Kawasaki Yamaha www.amazon.com/dp/B07VQG2G3P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_KYYE2K7KQ9YJ8PSDXQ9T?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
But I didn’t anticipate them being so low so I had to also purchased these risers for it because they were wayy to low going right into the original holes. These sit perfectly now and I actually can use them as mirrors now. They move around a little bit more than I like on big bumps but I just need to take some sandpaper to the inside cup to give it a bit of a grip to the ball. But also to be honest I actually really like the angled look of the straight risers to the two angled mirror mounts. It gives it a little bit of character to the front look. I also have two boss speakers that I put onto the handlebars now and I’m going to be adding hand guards too.
Xitomer Aftermarket Mirror Risers, 4 pcs M10 x 1.25 Motorcycle Rear View Mirror Extenders 40mm, Fit for YAMAHA MT-09, HONDA CB1000R/ Grom MSX125, KAWASAKI, SUZUKI, Aprilia, Aluminum CNC www.amazon.com/dp/B086JHMYSN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_QDCAA00TBD84CCVB2562?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
@@HeatAndPower Did they just screw into the OEM mirror mounts?
Yup yup! I didn’t have to do anything extra to make them work.
@@HeatAndPower Thanks for your help!
You’re welcome! Glad I could help! 😬😬😬
No test ride?
Hey thanks for commenting. No ride camera. But it’s no different that just upping the front sprocket alone. So you’ll get just about the exact same performance but drop a little weight.
How do i know which chain i would need for a specific ratio setup ?
Hey PistoN GaminG. Thanks for messaging. So if you make the same change as I did to 13/31 or 14/31 you can use the stock chain length but you will need to remove 4 links from the original chain length. I don’t know the exact number of links in the stock chain link though off the top of my head, just that you will need to use 4 less links than the stock chain length.
Hope this helps!
@@HeatAndPower great thanks for your helpful reply. Did you feel any difference from stock ? Top end wise ? Am looking to increase the top speed as my bike isn’t for stunts or anything just a crusier
Yes I would highly suggest the 13f/31b upgrade. If you have everything else on the bike stock. I have the intake and exhaust upgrades to add on but I’m waiting for a PCV to come out for the 2022 or I may just go with the PowerVision and just reflash to get 0.75-1.25 extra unicorn power out of the engine. When I finally do that I’ll probably switch over to the 14f/31b again with the little bit more “umph” available. Lol when it’s only getting 8-9hp an additional 0.75-1.25hp is a about a 10-15% increase in power 😂😅
This is what I wrote to someone else as well. Hope it helps.
It should increase your top speed. However because on the 2022 groms the 5th gear is quite a bit taller than 4th gear when you make the change to the 13/31 if you want to see the top end speed you have to get into the rpm range for 5th gear to actually take you up. So that means you really have to use 4th gear all the way to the end. But when you do and you switch into 5th gear you will be in the above 55mph range and at about 6000rpm right where the torque band of the engine is. I have no issue cruising around in 5th gear at 60-65 and I’m not even at redline to stay there. I’ve GPS’d my max speed at 70mph and I’m 210lbs without any gear on and I did that with at least 30-40lbs of gear and backpack weight. But I really must emphasize using all of 4th gear because if you switch into 5th gear at around 40-45 you won’t have the torque to get you up over 50+. Again this has to do with the fact that 5th gear is really an “overspeed” gear for cruising. If I remember correctly, for stock, the jump from first gear to 2nd gear is really small. But then 2 to 3 and 3 to 4 are pretty normal in jump up. But then 4 to 5 is a pretty big jump for the cruising. They attempted to get the higher speed and lower gear ratio, and coincidentally lower RPMs for higher velocity cruising, without compromising the lower gear stacks from the old groms. But to be 100% honest my favorite part about this change to 13/31 is that first gear is MUCH longer. Like you don’t have to shift into 2nd like immediately after starting from stop. 1st gear feels like it goes much further and makes city riding just that much more comfortable too.
I can’t say this for fact but it seems like the gear ratios are set up for euro or Asian kph standard speeds. Which I always feel like is slightly lower than here in America. For example like the common 55-70kph (35-45mph)road in most countries is commonly a 55mph road in America. So it seems like the stock gear ratio (15/38 or 2.5333) has the 4th and 5th gear set that the cruising rpm puts you in the best torque/power band for acceleration form a slightly slower speed. But with the change to the 13/31 or ~2.3846 it seems to put the RPMs with the torque power and for around 45-55mph. Like driving around stock at 45mph I feel like it’a too high of an rpm for cruising in 4th gear but still too low of an rpm for cruising in 5th gear. Where as with the 13/31 I feel like 4th gear is perfect for cruising around at 45mph now snd 5th gear is great for 55-65 cruising.
And honestly once you get into the power and torque band for the motor (5500-9000rpm) in 5th gear you actually still get some decent pull when cruising around at 55-65mph. Which at first seemed really counter intuitive when I originally made the change. Because I would be in 5th gear going 45 and I’ll hit a moderate sized hill and I’ll start scrubbing speed. (and I live in southeast Michigan where it’s basically flat so by moderate hill I mean like a slight incline 😂) but another day I was going through the same area late at night with no traffic going 55 up the same moderate incline and I was able to actually accelerate going up it. So just be aware of using your gears within the appropriate torque and power band rpm range when you make the change.
I hope this helps and wasn’t just a bunch of rambling!
Also look for VladZ’s comment somewhere here in the comments section. He said he did the change after watching the video too.
What is the difference between the abs model blue 2022 and the sp model and does it come with abs?
Hey Marshall 3498, thanks for commenting! So the SP model does not come with ABS on the front brakes. ABS is definitely a good feature if you are a newer rider. It helps mostly if you’re not “trained/practiced” at not locking up the front tire in an emergency situation. I believe abs is becoming more of a standard feature for a lot more higher end bikes but the grom is a much more low risk kinda ride, in that it can’t go all that fast. Not to make it sound like abs is a “beginner rider” feature because it’s not, I just personally didn’t find it as necessary to get for my grom. So it’s really rider preference if you would prefer to have abs on your grom or not.
So just as an update, I just went and did a change of the 14t front sprocket down to a 13t coupled with the 31t rear. For reference:
stock->15t/38t - 2.533
Usual change->17t/38t - 2.2352
First change->14t/31t - 2.2142
Newest setting->13t/31t - 2.3846
I wanted to see if I could gain a little acceleration back without going all the way back to stock. So I can still get slightly higher speeds. Did a few rides the last two days with it and I actually like it a little better. It makes the bike feel a little more playful in average city riding. I don’t do much 60+ riding with this bike so having that highest top speed available was not really necessary for me and I’d prefer to get a little more torque to the wheel back for zipping around downtown. I will Probabaly go back up to the 14t on the front when I do the exhaust, intake, and PCV mods to the bike and gain a little bit out of it though.
I do like having 1st go higher than it did with stock though. The extra 13t gear was only like $10 extra too so it’s cheap to make the adjustment. Not to mention the 13t fit perfect with where the length of the chain was already at from the 14t/31t before.
Hope this update helps!
What is your top speed and you haven't put a speedo heeler in to give you an accurate speed?
I cruise around all day long at 50-60 and I have a milkcrate strapped to my pillion rack and the max I’ve seen was 70 on my phone gps, not speedometer, but that was without the milk crate on.
Mph?
At what revs ??
U know when u change the front sprocket it has the opposite effect as changing the back sprocket. Bigger in the front equals longer gears and bigger in the back equals shorter gears
Hey thanks for your comment but I think you missed part of the video. Both gears are changed. it was originally 15/38 ~2.5333 and I changed it to 14/31 ~2.2132. Changing both to 14/31 is just about the same as going to 17 on the front with stock rear for 17/38 ~2.2352 but you don’t have to grind away on the inside of the sprocket cover to fit the larger front gear and chain. So you in fact can reduce the back while reducing the front to still get a longer overall gear ratio.
Will the 13/31 sprocket lower my overall top speed?
It should increase your top speed. However because on the 2022 groms the 5th gear is quite a bit taller than 4th gear when you make the change to the 13/31 if you want to see the top end speed you have to get into the rpm range for 5th gear to actually take you up. So that means you really have to use 4th gear all the way to the end. But when you do and you switch into 5th gear you will be in the above 55mph range and at about 6000rpm right where the torque band of the engine is. I have no issue cruising around in 5th gear at 60-65 and I’m not even at redline to stay there. I’ve GPS’d my max speed at 70mph and I’m 210lbs without any gear on and I did that with at least 30-40lbs of gear and backpack weight. But I really must emphasize using all of 4th gear because if you switch into 5th gear at around 40-45 you won’t have the torque to get you up over 50+. Again this has to do with the fact that 5th gear is really an “overspeed” gear for cruising. If I remember correctly, for stock, the jump from first gear to 2nd gear is really small. But then 2 to 3 and 3 to 4 are pretty normal in jump up. But then 4 to 5 is a pretty big jump for the cruising. They attempted to get the higher speed and lower gear ratio, and coincidentally lower RPMs for higher velocity cruising, without compromising the lower gear stacks from the old groms. But to be 100% honest my favorite part about this change to 13/31 is that first gear is MUCH longer. Like you don’t have to shift into 2nd like immediately after starting from stop. 1st gear feels like it goes much further and makes city riding just that much more comfortable too.
I can’t say this for fact but it seems like the gear ratios are set up for euro or Asian kph standard speeds. Which I always feel like is slightly lower than here in America. For example like the common 55-70kph (35-45mph)road in most countries is commonly a 55mph road in America. So it seems like the stock gear ratio (15/38 or 2.5333) has the 4th and 5th gear set that the cruising rpm puts you in the best torque/power band for acceleration form a slightly slower speed. But with the change to the 13/31 or ~2.3846 it seems to put the RPMs with the torque power and for around 45-55mph. Like driving around stock at 45mph I feel like it’a too high of an rpm for cruising in 4th gear but still too low of an rpm for cruising in 5th gear. Where as with the 13/31 I feel like 4th gear is perfect for cruising around at 45mph now snd 5th gear is great for 55-65 cruising.
And honestly once you get into the power and torque band for the motor (5500-9000rpm) in 5th gear you actually still get some decent pull when cruising around at 55-65mph. Which at first seemed really counter intuitive when I originally made the change. Because I would be in 5th gear going 45 and I’ll hit a moderate sized hill and I’ll start scrubbing speed. (and I live in southeast Michigan where it’s basically flat so by moderate hill I mean like a slight incline 😂) but another day I was going through the same area late at night with no traffic going 55 up the same moderate incline and I was able to actually accelerate going up it. So just be aware of using your gears within the appropriate torque and power band rpm range when you make the change.
I hope this helps and wasn’t just a bunch of rambling!
@@HeatAndPower I actually switched over to 13-31 after I saw this video and I love the difference! The speedometer actually matches the gps speed now, I haven't don't a top pull yet but can tell it's gonna be tough somewhat. I have the dhm intake and exhaust tune and weigh about 195, I'm loving the low end power now and first gear is much longer. Easily pulls above 20mph.
I think with the cam and high compression piston it'll help with the top end power
Have you run 15-31 yet?
I was drafting behind a truck on the highway and got it to 78mph speedo with the stock gearing
Oh yeah no I haven’t gone to the 15/31 yet. I will Der be going back to the 14/31 once I finally to my intake and exhaust + ecu flash or PCV if they finally come out with one. After going down to the 13 from the 14 I liked the 13 better but I have a feeling with that little bit more power the 14 and maybe 15 will be very comfortable with its power/torque increases, small as they might be adding 0.75-1.25hp to an already stock 8-9hp engine is still a 10-15% increase in power 🤷♂️
What device do I need to correct the speedo after I change my gearing?
Increased speed and acceleration? The maths arent mathing
Why didnt u just do 16t up front?
Hey Grinch Don, Because you have to grind away on the sprocket cover to fit the chain and 16t on the front. Also because reducing the the rear sprocket with the front the correct way reduces the rotational mass of the drivetrain and reduces the moment of inertia of the sprocket/tire. it also reduces the chain by 4 links. So all in all that rotational mass reduction can either save gas or increase available power/torque to the wheels, not by much but a bit.
Even if you kept the same gear ratio as stock 15t/38t (2.5333) but went with 13t/33t (2.5384) and reduced the chain by 3 links you would gain a little torque and power to the wheels that would have been previously gone to just spinning up the mass of the drivetrain along with propelling it forward. Again, not a lot, but some. And when going to a lower gear ratio like going up to 16t front only you sacrifice acceleration/torque to gain higher speeds or lower cruising RPMs. so to do the gear up while gaining some of that torque to the wheels back, with this front and back change, is the most beneficial change you can do to get the same change in gear ratio.
Link for the kit?
Hey Trailmeister, thanks for commenting. So unless you have the ability to drill out the holes on the 31t sprocket that I purchased you will need to find a different one that will properly fit the studs on the wheel hub without needing to be altered.
But parts list was just
JT 420 Chain on Amazon
JT 14t 420 sprocket on Amazon
PBI 31t Rear Sprocket for grom on Amazon
I went with the PBI sprockets on Amazon. But the holes in the sprocket were smaller than the bolts on the sprocket hub. So I had to drill out the holes to be larger to fit. I explain more in the video. Hope this helps!
PBI Sprockets Aluminum Fits Honda Grom Rear Sprocket www.amazon.com/dp/B00X41QBPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_9S0GS3KA3YWEMP2ZSCSP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
JT Sprockets JTC420HDR120SL Chains, 120 Links www.amazon.com/dp/B00HFRQ2CQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XDJS1V1ZECKYS19SF57Y?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
JT Sprockets JTF249.14 14T Steel Front Sprocket black, 14 Tooth/420 Pitch www.amazon.com/dp/B001AVVXV8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BWPJW4JAYV7JQQT74W2C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
@@HeatAndPower thanks I’ll try to find it
Swing arm not a frame.
Your speedo is of now and will need calibration
Correct. They sell a speedo fix for this because the speedometer sensor is in the trans. But I used a gps speedometer when I tested my top speeds. Currently the speedometer now shows that I’m going slower than I actually am. For the 14:31 change when the speedometer on the grom reads 35mph my gps would read 39-40mph. My top speed from my gps was 70-71mph the last time I tested it.
I know have it setup with 13/31 for a little more torque and now when my grom speedometer says 35 I’m going about 37-38 on my gps. Haven’t done a top speed run yet with this set up because it’s now below like 10°f out.
how fast this setup go full trottle? Thank you
🔥🔥🔥🔥
💚💙💜😈😈😈
So just as an update, I just went and did a change of the 14t front sprocket down to a 13t coupled with the 31t rear. For reference:
stock->15t/38t - 2.533
Usual change->17t/38t - 2.2352
First change->14t/31t - 2.2142
Newest setting->13t/31t - 2.3846
I wanted to see if I could gain a little acceleration back without going all the way back to stock. So I can still get slightly higher speeds. Did a few rides the last two days with it and I actually like it a little better. It makes the bike feel a little more playful in average city riding. I don’t do much 60+ riding with this bike so having that highest top speed available was not really necessary for me and I’d prefer to get a little more torque to the wheel back for zipping around downtown. I will Probabaly go back up to the 14t on the front when I do the exhaust, intake, and PCV mods to the bike and gain a little bit out of it though.
I do like having 1st go higher than it did with stock though. The extra 13t gear was only like $10 extra too so it’s cheap to make the adjustment. Not to mention the 13t fit perfect with where the length of the chain was already at from the 14t/31t before.
Hope this update helps!