The cable housing is more likley to need replacing due to the nylon inner tube liner breaking down if too old. Although the wire strands can over time break and require full replacement. As an interum maintenence 6-12 months I remove the wire cable and flush the cable casing with a presure pack silicone lube to drive out any contaminent and nylon fragments and then blow out with compresssed air, not too high pressure, to clear out execess silicon lube and contaminent. Nylon is self lubricating so doen't need lubricating. The cable inner should be Stainless Steel If it shows signs of rust then it's either poor low grade stainless or high carbon spring steel wire, either way I dip both ends of the cable (200mm) in hot melted wax to penetrate the strands, allow to cool and then wipe off this prevents water wicking and drawing in dust and grit contaminents along the strands when washing or wet rides. The cable is inserted into the cable housing clean and dry. Don't insert a new cable inner in a old worn cable housing as it will have a tendancy bind in any worn groves in the old inner Nylon tube.
Wow I was thinking giving it the hot wax treatment as I do with my chain. Thanks for this info. I’m going to change the housing and cable any recommendations. I have never done this.
@@junboo8730 Replacement of the complete cable and housing depends alot on how much you ride and how frequent you change gears. If you mainly ride 2000-3000km per year XC with a lot of up and down then you will be doing many gearchanges and may need to replace may be 1-1.5 years. If it is less frequent and reasonably flat or just down hill then you would get a much longer life unless the cable is of the cheaper type that has no inner lining or spring steel inner cable that is rusting then more frequent. If you stick to Shimano/Sram better product they should last and may only need the inner cable replaced. Alot has to do to with your riding conditions, frequency and if the outer casing has been damaged due to a crash.
I use silicone oil - like the kind for lubricating treadmill belts to reduce friction. Works great and wont attack any plastics like some petroleum products. Also I dont wipe it off. I know it greatly reduces friction as i ran the cable in and out by hand before and after...
I recommend using polished cables. Much better shifting (braking too) than regular and even better than those with Teflon coating (which tends to rub off).
Got the obessesion of cleaning and lubing my bike more often after each long hard ride out on the saddle; as the saying goes " A clean bike is a fast bike "
I find graphite powder to be insanely good! However it is so messy, I mostly use 100% silicon spray on my cables, and I generally never have to touch them again... like ever.
I use Shimano Cable grease. I see people complain about it being very expensive, and they forget one important thing while they evaluate the price, which is how much do you use per cable, and how often do you need to do this. So, how many years will that 50g jar last? For me personally, lubing cables is something I rarely feel the need to do so I know I got cable grease for years simply because you also need very little of it for when you do use it.
If you are reusing cable, have you ever tried capping the end with electrical heat shrink tubing? It can be thin enough that it is possible to pull it back through the ferrules and tubing without removing it.
How come I've never thought of this? Thank you! I'd go for candle stick. I stopped using PTFE a long time ago. There's enough micro plastic around us already. (BTW shouldn't that wire wrap front to back instead? Looks like it's made for that angle)
What’s plastic got to do with Teflon/PTFE?? You do know that Teflon has absolutely nothing whatsoever to do with plastics and most definitely cannot be considered a plastic in any way…
@@pimlindahl453 Gotta say, it’s very rare to find someone on here who, after being proven wrong beyond a doubt, then goes ahead and congratulates the person who corrected them by giving them even MORE facts with which to back up their own comments and add more fuel to show how wrong you actually were when you insinuated that Teflon is somehow a plastic or some description. Which it obviously isn’t, and that Wikipedia page you linked backs that up 100%, so yeah, I kinda knew most of what’s on that page but it’s still interesting to read over it every now and then. And very refreshing to find someone as humble as yourself. Like you, I just enjoy learning and indeed, every time someone proves me wrong is a good time as it means I’m learning something new and interesting. Might not get you a seat with the cool kids but I reckon learning is fun. There, I said it. 😱
@@pimlindahl453 dunno exactly where you found that line as I didn’t see it but specifically, it states that Teflon is a “polymer consisting wholly of carbon and fluorine”. I’m not sure which science class you missed but almost all plastics are petrochemicals, meaning that they’re made from crude oil. Obviously, Teflon is NOT derived from crude oil, nor has anything to do with petrochemicals. Also, not really sure it should even be described as a plastic as it isn’t really deformable because if it was, it would be a terrible lubricant, which is the last thing anyone would say about Teflon. Most plastics will have words like vinyl, poly, etc and are not exactly high temperature resistant - they, umm, tend to burn… Again, Teflon does not. Anyway, thanks for the education, always appreciated 👍
You don't need a cable end plug. Just clean the end of the cable with benzin or aceton and then apply some drops of nail polish for some 1cm of the cable end. That's all.
I use squirt wax water emulsion on both chain, cable and whenever i need to lube something that is not hot (home use etc...). It works great. It doesnt become sticky like grease and oil and has kind of autocleaning properties. On the chain regular applications are needed.
Spray carnauba wax works well but is pretty expesive. I'e been experimenting with spray silicones which have become a lot cheaper in the last few years. Having a dry lube is important - although they are sprayed on the volatiles used for application evaporate. Otherwise dry lube sticks also work, or even candles and cayons!. Ain't no way I'd be rubbing my fingers on old cables like that though unless you want one of the strands of wire spiking you if it's broken. Those things are sharp!
Grease dries out creating more friction ,ptfe or silicone spray are more suitable for this application .Your shifters action is dictated by the amount of tension on the cable and the mech chain tension screw .
Great tipp. But I wonder: my XT 8100 derailleur came with that little plastic housing extender that would stick out on the outer side of the cable stop. Just like XTR. Didn’t yours come with it? It really helps with that rubbing issue I guess.
I oil my cables with finish line, never thought to use wax... Will definitely give it a try thanks! My Kona Hoss as always had poor shifting of not maintained correctly, hopefully this will improve it more.
Just be careful which outer cable you have. Some outers, like some Shimano models, actually come with lubricant already injected. Also applying something like Squirt chain wax to the cable may cause the wax to never solidify properly and the lubricant will be mixed with water, which could potentially cause corrosion as the water won't dry out like it does on a chain.
We used to pump grease into the housings to keep water and debris out. Worked great! When they do get dirty, just pump more grease through and it pushes any debris out. It’s especially good for places that are wet a lot.
Best product for this job is PlanetSafe AIM lube. The nano particles bond to metal significantly reducing friction. Apply it the same way, let it sit overnight and wipe of the carrier mineral oil. It is also non-toxic, non-hazardous, and has no smell. It also prevents rust. I've been using AIM everywhere on my bikes for years. It's also fantastic on your chain, wheel bearings, and on any metal on metal contact points. I also use the Planetsafe grease to replace the grease in my eBike mid-drive motor.
Hey Danny, really hope you can do/make more XC race videos, they really got me into racing and have improved my training and racing so much! Keep up the great work!
A squirt of WD40 into the cable housing. Works amazing. Cleans out any dirt and leaves a thin lubricant, preventing corrosion. Been doing it for years, along with a few drops of oil rubbed along the inner cable.
My opinion on cables Shimano OPTISLICK cables I don’t think it is necessary, they are prelude already and will last with no issues the life of it . Also I don’t know how these so call wax will react to the cable coating it’s a myth. I would say it all coming down to corrosion. Great video
You might have shifting issues at first but after a ride or so it should run smoothly. Fact is, as others have commented, you don't really need lube on your cables. If you insist on lube a dry lube like a wax or PTFE powder would be your best bet. Anything that's "wet" (oil, grease) is going to eventually collect dirt and cause issues. Fresh, clean cables with lube *might* feel better at first but they won't last as long. Your best bet is to get quality cables and replace them as necessary. I have to say that while @sickbiker has some good advise I don't agree with his advice on lubing things.
Hi Danny, is there anything to do with Shimano shifter in terms of how hard it is to shift, you need to push really hard, especially if you go to drop 2 gears (I'm comparing my current m9100 vs my older m9000) Thank you
Hello, I was just wondering, when setting up the new shimano 12 speed groups, do you suggest offsetting the jockey wheel with the smallest cog like you do for the eagle drivetrains, or should I align the jockey wheel with the smallest cog straight?
I have the 'normal' grease, freehub grease and chain lube and try to find which one is good for the shifter and brake cable. And this video solved my question. Shimano sp-41 cable grease is too expensive. And I think I can use freehub grease to lube the cable. So the alt shimano grease, the top2000 instead of premium grease, the NB52 instead of freehub grease and wet chain lube for road/urban bike.
How much do you use every time, and how many times per year. So, how much will the Shimano Cable grease cost per year to use? Greasing of cables as well as changing of cables is something that has a low frequency, so I know that I'm going to have cable grease for years to come. Price per year, that is the actual price. Stop focusing on the size of the jar.
@@a8f235 Our dear Shimano loves you. Now I am just using the wet chain lube instead of the grease, It works great right now, even more cheaper than the ultimate luxury grease. You don't need to teach others how to follow the tech manual or calculate the price tag. It's the technical problem, not attitude or math problem. If you really want to help others, plz just send money. LMAO
I've neglected a lot of bikes in my life and they all still worked fine. just a couple of minor adjusting and basic oil and all my bikes still worked great. I see these videos and all the different wax and lubes they need for 1 bike. tf? you have 2-4 materials. Plastic, maybe carbon, aluminum, and steal.
Don't use those aluminum end caps on the end of the cable. Heat shrink tubing works better. Heat shrink tubing does a better job preventing the cable from fraying and is easier to remove and reinstall.
Does the XT shifter need tension to shift? When I shift it with a cable in it but not hooked up to the derailer it seems to get stuck unless I pull on it and click the shifters.
I never lube cables or put anything inside the housing. I just wipe off the exposed parts. Some people lube and grease things way too much. Causes more problems in the long run. Just like some grease the freehub body. 🤦♀️
@@lamefart Absolutely not. It attracts dirt causing more damage. It's a locked interface, so there aren't any moving parts. Maybe people think it will stop creaks, but there won't be any unless it is an aluminum freehub and the cassette dented the splines. I stay away from Alloy freehubs.
@@sandykavor8434 thanks. My hubs don't come with harder materials, it's the soft Al alloy ones.. My old stock ones that came with the build was made of steel. 😅
@@lamefart Okay. Still just make sure freehub is completely clean and so is the cassette. The only place where you should put some grease is on the lock ring thread. Do you have any damage on the freehub splines? I ordered my current Hope Fortus wheelset with stainless steel freehub. I did not want the stock alloy. That is one place where saving weight doesn't help.
@@sandykavor8434 bite marks galore.. Even with a proprietary "anti-bite" metal strip in one of the canals, there's still lots of bite in the alloy freehub splines.
my 6yr old m8000 rear mech is banged up and ready to be replaced.. would you recommend i go with the older m8000 again? or go with the newer m5100 rear mech?
You need to match the speed of the derailleur to the speed of the shifter. So 10 speed to 10 speed. Are the M8000 and M5100 the same speed? If so , go new parts. They’re tighter and crisper
M8000 and M5100 are both 11 speed. M8000 has a max 46T on the cassette, M5100 has a max 51T on the cassette. An M8100 12 speed rear mech works fine with Shimano 11 speed MTB shifters, BTW.
The problem with greasing your shifter cables is that when they get dirty it will make shifting exponentially more difficult. Also if you ride in the cold and the grease solidifies, again it will make your shifting much more difficult. You should not grease your cables. Especially ones that are in a cable sleeve/case.
Agree! Do not lube or wax your cables, unless you like to constantly like to work on your bikes. Lubes will attract dirt and dust into the housing and clog your cable. Wax and dry PTFE will flake inside of the housing and also clog. Dry - slick - stainless cable with dry cable housing will preform and last for years. I've been running my cables dry for decades. I can have cables and housing last multiple years before replacing them. Where when I used to lube or wax cables I'd have to change yearly and often have to clean & relube a couple times a year. Like I said, even dry PTFE powder will migrate and clog in the housing, usually at the ends.
It kind of depends on what your local weather is like. In Alaska, we used to pump grease into the housings to keep water and debris out. Worked great! When they do get dirty, just pump more grease through and it pushes any debris out. It’s especially good for places that are wet a lot. I never had any problems with winter riding either.
I wish my bike had the outer cable running from the shifter till the derailleur! Only have outer cable on the outside of the bike, the cabling in the frame is just the innercable. Pain in the *ss to service.
He's got that Shimano XT setup going on so I know he's got high quality cables. That comes at a high price for a cable. I would just do what he's doing. I got a junk Walmart bike and I don't want to spend money on it's cables niether.
I've always thought about using wax on my cables but wasn't really sure about it. Oh well too late now lo, I have my shifting dialed in and don't want to mess with anything lol.
@@NonLegitNation2Seriously? Obviously, just like your name, you can’t be legit with an answer like that bro! I mean, cmon, a 2x10 CANNOT possibly use the same way of lubricating the cable as, perhaps, a 3x10 or 3x11 or ANY other combination possible. Anyone with three brain cells to rub together knows that EVERY kind of cable absolutely must have its own, completely bespoke lubrication method. 🤪🤪😂
Can you make a video for front gears because i just bought a new mtb and im having trouble in shifting to the largest front gear and i have tried many tuning videos but it has not worked. Please
@@mattk8810 Is there any way through which i can connect to you and send you the video of my shifting problems like problems thats im facing. And then you can tell me what should i do to fix that. Because i slaked my cable then it was not shift to next gear and when i tighten it it was going nearly over to the gears and then falling back on gear
@@akshaykumarsingh8715 Do a search for videos on how to set up and tune a front derailleur. It should be easy. Unless your bike has a really cheap derailleur and shifter on it; in which it might not work very well.
I use multi-purpose grease on brake and shifter cables. If you dont lube, the inner cable will grind the casing and rust too. If you do off-road thru mud you may need chain lube with Teflon instead of grease. If you park your bike in a garage or outside the grease could harden though after a few years.
@@redtobertshateshandles a roughly 40:60 emulsion of wax and water. The idea is that you apply generous amounts to the chain, the water will evaporate or drip off, leaving the wax behind
Question: Would it be good to have (nylon?)cable ending part inside the derailleur's hole for cable, to prevent rubbing cable over derailleur ? (Screenshot: prnt.sc/wbjdk6) Recently I saw this part inside used derailleur that I bought. Dont know the right naming for this simple part, Similar part we have inside the road shifters, it covers cable end for 3-4 cm length (not the aluminum end cap!).
If you’re talking about that tiny cylinder, its a reservoir for damping fluid. When you compress the shock , the shaft displaces a little bit of oil, and it goes to the reservoir. Inline shocks have one too, but located inside. When it is outside like this one, the damper holds more oil, and it can be cooled by the outside air, leading to more consistent damping even on long downhill runs. Its also called an IFP, or a piggyback.
not sure what oil you are using but oil does not freeze like that, hell even if it is in the -20c it is more like butter than frozen solid, if your oil is freezing solid then it is probably not good oil or is contaminated or it is simply really cold and if that is the case i would be more concerned with my hydraulic brakes freezing up
A mountain bike's weight limit varies per type, with some models built for up to 550 pounds maximum weight capacity. The structural weight limit is provided by bike manufacturers, and it's the maximum combined weight of the cargo and rider. On average, the weight restriction for a mountain bike is 300 pounds. Wheels have weight limits. Most full suspension mountain bikes have adjustable suspension so you can add or delete air pressure to deal with rider weight
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
The cable housing is more likley to need replacing due to the nylon inner tube liner breaking down if too old. Although the wire strands can over time break and require full replacement. As an interum maintenence 6-12 months I remove the wire cable and flush the cable casing with a presure pack silicone lube to drive out any contaminent and nylon fragments and then blow out with compresssed air, not too high pressure, to clear out execess silicon lube and contaminent. Nylon is self lubricating so doen't need lubricating. The cable inner should be Stainless Steel If it shows signs of rust then it's either poor low grade stainless or high carbon spring steel wire, either way I dip both ends of the cable (200mm) in hot melted wax to penetrate the strands, allow to cool and then wipe off this prevents water wicking and drawing in dust and grit contaminents along the strands when washing or wet rides. The cable is inserted into the cable housing clean and dry. Don't insert a new cable inner in a old worn cable housing as it will have a tendancy bind in any worn groves in the old inner Nylon tube.
Wow I was thinking giving it the hot wax treatment as I do with my chain. Thanks for this info. I’m going to change the housing and cable any recommendations. I have never done this.
@@junboo8730 Replacement of the complete cable and housing depends alot on how much you ride and how frequent you change gears. If you mainly ride 2000-3000km per year XC with a lot of up and down then you will be doing many gearchanges and may need to replace may be 1-1.5 years. If it is less frequent and reasonably flat or just down hill then you would get a much longer life unless the cable is of the cheaper type that has no inner lining or spring steel inner cable that is rusting then more frequent. If you stick to Shimano/Sram better product they should last and may only need the inner cable replaced. Alot has to do to with your riding conditions, frequency and if the outer casing has been damaged due to a crash.
Great video. Nice to see Shimano is consumer friendly when doing basic repairs/maintenance. Thanks.
I've always used light grease on my cables ever since i built my first bike back in grade school.
I use silicone oil - like the kind for lubricating treadmill belts to reduce friction. Works great and wont attack any plastics like some petroleum products. Also I dont wipe it off. I know it greatly reduces friction as i ran the cable in and out by hand before and after...
It' always a pleasure hearing your voice & watching your videos-- a very relaxing way to obtain knowledge, thank you for sharing
I recommend using polished cables. Much better shifting (braking too) than regular and even better than those with Teflon coating (which tends to rub off).
First time I’ve used the optislick cable in my xtr shifter works great feels like there is a coating on it
Got the obessesion of cleaning and lubing my bike more often after each long hard ride out on the saddle; as the saying goes " A clean bike is a fast bike "
I find graphite powder to be insanely good! However it is so messy, I mostly use 100% silicon spray on my cables, and I generally never have to touch them again... like ever.
How much of it do you wipe? I have a can of it already.
SLick video. Straightforward to the point and very clear. Thanks!
Oh man, awesome video!
Really paying attention to every detail!
Love your work, keep it up 🙏🏼🤙🏼
I swapped the shifter to SRAM AXS. Kept the drivetrain as shimano to keep the hyper glide magic, and with e-shifting it Always shifts butter smooth.
How can SRAM AXS shifter work with a Shimano drivetrain?
I have done this on my Shimano Acera system. Works flawlessly
I use Shimano Cable grease. I see people complain about it being very expensive, and they forget one important thing while they evaluate the price, which is how much do you use per cable, and how often do you need to do this. So, how many years will that 50g jar last?
For me personally, lubing cables is something I rarely feel the need to do so I know I got cable grease for years simply because you also need very little of it for when you do use it.
A quick squeeze with an air compressor will help get dirt/dust etc out of the housing!
also works great with brake hoses!
We used to pump grease into the housings to keep water and debris out. Worked great!
Pumping grease into the housing would make the bike heavier. Every ounce of weight counts.
Spend a little time/effort will keep your gears work butter smooth. It save you some $, and make the earth cleaner and less polluted.
Excellent video again, extremely well explained
If you are reusing cable, have you ever tried capping the end with electrical heat shrink tubing? It can be thin enough that it is possible to pull it back through the ferrules and tubing without removing it.
How come I've never thought of this? Thank you! I'd go for candle stick. I stopped using PTFE a long time ago. There's enough micro plastic around us already.
(BTW shouldn't that wire wrap front to back instead? Looks like it's made for that angle)
What’s plastic got to do with Teflon/PTFE?? You do know that Teflon has absolutely nothing whatsoever to do with plastics and most definitely cannot be considered a plastic in any way…
@@aaronperelmuter8433 Please read: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polytetrafluoroethylene
@@pimlindahl453 Gotta say, it’s very rare to find someone on here who, after being proven wrong beyond a doubt, then goes ahead and congratulates the person who corrected them by giving them even MORE facts with which to back up their own comments and add more fuel to show how wrong you actually were when you insinuated that Teflon is somehow a plastic or some description. Which it obviously isn’t, and that Wikipedia page you linked backs that up 100%, so yeah, I kinda knew most of what’s on that page but it’s still interesting to read over it every now and then.
And very refreshing to find someone as humble as yourself. Like you, I just enjoy learning and indeed, every time someone proves me wrong is a good time as it means I’m learning something new and interesting. Might not get you a seat with the cool kids but I reckon learning is fun. There, I said it. 😱
@@aaronperelmuter8433 Oh! Silly me... It's a thermoplastic polymer :-) LOL
@@pimlindahl453 dunno exactly where you found that line as I didn’t see it but specifically, it states that Teflon is a “polymer consisting wholly of carbon and fluorine”. I’m not sure which science class you missed but almost all plastics are petrochemicals, meaning that they’re made from crude oil. Obviously, Teflon is NOT derived from crude oil, nor has anything to do with petrochemicals. Also, not really sure it should even be described as a plastic as it isn’t really deformable because if it was, it would be a terrible lubricant, which is the last thing anyone would say about Teflon.
Most plastics will have words like vinyl, poly, etc and are not exactly high temperature resistant - they, umm, tend to burn… Again, Teflon does not.
Anyway, thanks for the education, always appreciated 👍
You don't need a cable end plug. Just clean the end of the cable with benzin or aceton and then apply some drops of nail polish for some 1cm of the cable end. That's all.
so smooth when you shifting it.excellence
I use squirt wax water emulsion on both chain, cable and whenever i need to lube something that is not hot (home use etc...). It works great. It doesnt become sticky like grease and oil and has kind of autocleaning properties. On the chain regular applications are needed.
Don't use it on cables. It will be very draggy when cold.
It's not for cables lol. Don't do that.
Very helpful, great info and nice filming, thanks a lot!
Spray carnauba wax works well but is pretty expesive. I'e been experimenting with spray silicones which have become a lot cheaper in the last few years. Having a dry lube is important - although they are sprayed on the volatiles used for application evaporate. Otherwise dry lube sticks also work, or even candles and cayons!. Ain't no way I'd be rubbing my fingers on old cables like that though unless you want one of the strands of wire spiking you if it's broken. Those things are sharp!
Grease dries out creating more friction ,ptfe or silicone spray are more suitable for this application .Your shifters action is dictated by the amount of tension on the cable and the mech chain tension screw .
Grease drys out? Maybe, but that's after decades.
Some sram butter on the inside of the shifter helps too
Cheers dude great video, simple and informational 👌 Will play-and-pause this tomorrow when i change my derailleur cable 🤙
Great tipp. But I wonder: my XT 8100 derailleur came with that little plastic housing extender that would stick out on the outer side of the cable stop. Just like XTR. Didn’t yours come with it? It really helps with that rubbing issue I guess.
i am using teflon cable. zero maintenance. seems to last forever.
Very,very helpful. I've got a box 11 speed but it works similar to yours
B4 fitting cables I spray them with PTFE spray and spray inside the outer cables. Works great 👍
I oil my cables with finish line, never thought to use wax... Will definitely give it a try thanks! My Kona Hoss as always had poor shifting of not maintained correctly, hopefully this will improve it more.
Just be careful which outer cable you have. Some outers, like some Shimano models, actually come with lubricant already injected. Also applying something like Squirt chain wax to the cable may cause the wax to never solidify properly and the lubricant will be mixed with water, which could potentially cause corrosion as the water won't dry out like it does on a chain.
We used to pump grease into the housings to keep water and debris out. Worked great! When they do get dirty, just pump more grease through and it pushes any debris out. It’s especially good for places that are wet a lot.
@@CanIHasThisName
That’s good to know.
This was a great informative and explained video, thank you!
SLICK Biker! Love it, thanks!
Best product for this job is PlanetSafe AIM lube. The nano particles bond to metal significantly reducing friction. Apply it the same way, let it sit overnight and wipe of the carrier mineral oil. It is also non-toxic, non-hazardous, and has no smell. It also prevents rust. I've been using AIM everywhere on my bikes for years. It's also fantastic on your chain, wheel bearings, and on any metal on metal contact points. I also use the Planetsafe grease to replace the grease in my eBike mid-drive motor.
Interesting. I am going to try my auto poly wax which is waterproof and super slippery. Thank you for this good video
What about putting the grease or wax on while you inserted some in then less likely to get it on the floor.
Good idea
Hey Danny, really hope you can do/make more XC race videos, they really got me into racing and have improved my training and racing so much! Keep up the great work!
A squirt of WD40 into the cable housing. Works amazing. Cleans out any dirt and leaves a thin lubricant, preventing corrosion. Been doing it for years, along with a few drops of oil rubbed along the inner cable.
wd40 is not a lubricant
It has lubricant on it a little
What did you use on the cable ends to keep from fraying?
My opinion on cables Shimano OPTISLICK cables I don’t think it is necessary, they are prelude already and will last with no issues the life of it . Also I don’t know how these so call wax will react to the cable coating it’s a myth. I would say it all coming down to corrosion. Great video
What do you think of waxing the cable with hot paraffin wax?
Won't work. Wax is stiff when cold: very bad shifting.
cement too
Lol
You might have shifting issues at first but after a ride or so it should run smoothly.
Fact is, as others have commented, you don't really need lube on your cables. If you insist on lube a dry lube like a wax or PTFE powder would be your best bet. Anything that's "wet" (oil, grease) is going to eventually collect dirt and cause issues.
Fresh, clean cables with lube *might* feel better at first but they won't last as long. Your best bet is to get quality cables and replace them as necessary.
I have to say that while @sickbiker has some good advise I don't agree with his advice on lubing things.
Hi Danny, is there anything to do with Shimano shifter in terms of how hard it is to shift, you need to push really hard, especially if you go to drop 2 gears (I'm comparing my current m9100 vs my older m9000)
Thank you
Loosen the clutch tension a little bit
If you just want to change the shifter itself, can you leave the cable and just insert it in the new shifter?
Yes, injust did for XT. Works really well
Nicely explained. Love the videos.
This is the best video thank you so much ☺️
Hello, I was just wondering, when setting up the new shimano 12 speed groups, do you suggest offsetting the jockey wheel with the smallest cog like you do for the eagle drivetrains, or should I align the jockey wheel with the smallest cog straight?
I have the 'normal' grease, freehub grease and chain lube and try to find which one is good for the shifter and brake cable. And this video solved my question.
Shimano sp-41 cable grease is too expensive. And I think I can use freehub grease to lube the cable.
So the alt shimano grease, the top2000 instead of premium grease, the NB52 instead of freehub grease and wet chain lube for road/urban bike.
How much do you use every time, and how many times per year. So, how much will the Shimano Cable grease cost per year to use?
Greasing of cables as well as changing of cables is something that has a low frequency, so I know that I'm going to have cable grease for years to come. Price per year, that is the actual price. Stop focusing on the size of the jar.
@@a8f235 Our dear Shimano loves you. Now I am just using the wet chain lube instead of the grease, It works great right now, even more cheaper than the ultimate luxury grease. You don't need to teach others how to follow the tech manual or calculate the price tag. It's the technical problem, not attitude or math problem. If you really want to help others, plz just send money. LMAO
Спасибо за русские субтитры ! Береги себя и своего коня !!!))) Удачи !
I've neglected a lot of bikes in my life and they all still worked fine. just a couple of minor adjusting and basic oil and all my bikes still worked great. I see these videos and all the different wax and lubes they need for 1 bike. tf? you have 2-4 materials. Plastic, maybe carbon, aluminum, and steal.
same on my commuter , on a 350€ it isnt economic to do all that , but on my 2500€ mtb i doand if you dont it can get verry pricey verry quickly
Don't use those aluminum end caps on the end of the cable. Heat shrink tubing works better. Heat shrink tubing does a better job preventing the cable from fraying and is easier to remove and reinstall.
A drop of superglue also does the job very well
@@rcs2003 Interesting, never tried Super Glue.
Or, you can even do it the old fashioned way and tin the end with solder.
@@SomeAngryGuy1997 I’ve never been able to get solder to wick onto stainless steel cable. The cheap carbon steel cable will wick if done carefully.
@@TC-hl1ws You don't have to do that. Just because you can doesn't mean you should
Does the XT shifter need tension to shift? When I shift it with a cable in it but not hooked up to the derailer it seems to get stuck unless I pull on it and click the shifters.
You can rub the cable with a bar of soap as well for lube
Wtf😂
There're dozens of better options than soap, even olive oil is better.
you look great with the saved head
its great that he didnt lose his head
If this guy’s a surgeon in his off time I would not be surprised
I use Liquid Wrench, a mixture of PTFE and light oil.
I never lube cables or put anything inside the housing. I just wipe off the exposed parts. Some people lube and grease things way too much. Causes more problems in the long run. Just like some grease the freehub body. 🤦♀️
So we shouldn't grease the freehub body? Why?
@@lamefart Absolutely not. It attracts dirt causing more damage. It's a locked interface, so there aren't any moving parts. Maybe people think it will stop creaks, but there won't be any unless it is an aluminum freehub and the cassette dented the splines. I stay away from Alloy freehubs.
@@sandykavor8434 thanks. My hubs don't come with harder materials, it's the soft Al alloy ones.. My old stock ones that came with the build was made of steel. 😅
@@lamefart Okay. Still just make sure freehub is completely clean and so is the cassette. The only place where you should put some grease is on the lock ring thread. Do you have any damage on the freehub splines? I ordered my current Hope Fortus wheelset with stainless steel freehub. I did not want the stock alloy. That is one place where saving weight doesn't help.
@@sandykavor8434 bite marks galore.. Even with a proprietary "anti-bite" metal strip in one of the canals, there's still lots of bite in the alloy freehub splines.
Thanks a lot for the great instruction!
my 6yr old m8000 rear mech is banged up and ready to be replaced.. would you recommend i go with the older m8000 again? or go with the newer m5100 rear mech?
New
You need to match the speed of the derailleur to the speed of the shifter. So 10 speed to 10 speed.
Are the M8000 and M5100 the same speed?
If so , go new parts. They’re tighter and crisper
M8000 and M5100 are both 11 speed. M8000 has a max 46T on the cassette, M5100 has a max 51T on the cassette. An M8100 12 speed rear mech works fine with Shimano 11 speed MTB shifters, BTW.
Shifting cable really needed to lube?
Actually in motorbikes clutch cables and accellerator needs lube if you don't want a stuck accellerator or break the clutch cable
@Maciej Jan Długosz i agree with you..
Hello, Danny! I hope, that one day you will try to solder the end of shifting wire and get rid of cable ends forever.
Superglue
Have you ever tried to solder stainless steel?
@@davidpearce2714 sure, I did it many times. You just need a right flux. I used phosphoric acid solution for soldering stainless shifting wires.
The problem with greasing your shifter cables is that when they get dirty it will make shifting exponentially more difficult. Also if you ride in the cold and the grease solidifies, again it will make your shifting much more difficult.
You should not grease your cables. Especially ones that are in a cable sleeve/case.
yeah I think flushing out the housing with something like GT85 is a good idea though
Isn't wax different than grease?
Agree! Do not lube or wax your cables, unless you like to constantly like to work on your bikes. Lubes will attract dirt and dust into the housing and clog your cable. Wax and dry PTFE will flake inside of the housing and also clog. Dry - slick - stainless cable with dry cable housing will preform and last for years. I've been running my cables dry for decades. I can have cables and housing last multiple years before replacing them. Where when I used to lube or wax cables I'd have to change yearly and often have to clean & relube a couple times a year. Like I said, even dry PTFE powder will migrate and clog in the housing, usually at the ends.
So what should I do about an XT8100 shifter that is fairly resistant and makes squeaking noises when shifting? Not many miles.
It kind of depends on what your local weather is like. In Alaska, we used to pump grease into the housings to keep water and debris out. Worked great! When they do get dirty, just pump more grease through and it pushes any debris out. It’s especially good for places that are wet a lot. I never had any problems with winter riding either.
Should the non-shift press cable slack not be tightened so no slack is felt on the shifter button?
Is chain lube better for this job or grease?
I'd say a liquid lube
@@cooperberrysmith7701maybe the liqiud oil can flow out of the cablehousings or is this not the case?
Will this work on dropper post cable?
Yes!
Good idea. Looks like an extremely costly bike there bro. 🧐 good filming great demo. Thanks!
What happened to your cable tail end at the derailleur cable housing???
What is the name of the wax you use.
Wax on Wax off
Great video , just the content I wanted .
how is the situation with road bike shifting cables?
I'd use dry chain lube as it will not be that sticky
Do you recommend Muc-off (chain) Dry Lube for the cable?
Yes
@@joshuastrong2398 Ta
Deore too?
Wonder if surf wax would do the same thing?
Surf wax is actually anti slip
I wish my bike had the outer cable running from the shifter till the derailleur! Only have outer cable on the outside of the bike, the cabling in the frame is just the innercable. Pain in the *ss to service.
Ive made bad experience with chainoil, too sticky. I just use rugular bearing grease.
If you are putting all this work in why not just replace the cable?
The environment. this guy buys used cassettes off the interwebs ! pay attention to his videos.
He's got that Shimano XT setup going on so I know he's got high quality cables. That comes at a high price for a cable. I would just do what he's doing. I got a junk Walmart bike and I don't want to spend money on it's cables niether.
Nice built…easy to assemble…fun to ride
I use Sram Butter. Works well.
I've always thought about using wax on my cables but wasn't really sure about it. Oh well too late now lo, I have my shifting dialed in and don't want to mess with anything lol.
Just mark your cable where it sits in the derailer. From there if you even have to adjust it it'll be a click or two on the barrel adjuster
Can this same technique be used for a 2x10 front derailleur?
yeah, any cable that's in a housing.
@@NonLegitNation2Seriously? Obviously, just like your name, you can’t be legit with an answer like that bro! I mean, cmon, a 2x10 CANNOT possibly use the same way of lubricating the cable as, perhaps, a 3x10 or 3x11 or ANY other combination possible. Anyone with three brain cells to rub together knows that EVERY kind of cable absolutely must have its own, completely bespoke lubrication method. 🤪🤪😂
@@aaronperelmuter8433 bro i was so ready to go in on you, until i saw you were joking, lol.
Dude you are insane thank for the info
Awesome ,thank you!
pull your cable through a candle stick and wipe excess. . also worksbgreat
Exactly, I only use this super expensive wax, cause I already bought it for my chain.
@@cannondanySo did you say the wax doesn't work good on your chain ?
Great idea. I'm going to immerse my new cables in melted wax and try that.
Can you make a video for front gears because i just bought a new mtb and im having trouble in shifting to the largest front gear and i have tried many tuning videos but it has not worked. Please
@@mattk8810 yes i think the cable is tight in lowest gear.
In addition to the suggestions also check the lower and upper limit screws.
@@mattk8810 Is there any way through which i can connect to you and send you the video of my shifting problems like problems thats im facing. And then you can tell me what should i do to fix that. Because i slaked my cable then it was not shift to next gear and when i tighten it it was going nearly over to the gears and then falling back on gear
@@akshaykumarsingh8715
Do a search for videos on how to set up and tune a front derailleur. It should be easy. Unless your bike has a really cheap derailleur and shifter on it; in which it might not work very well.
can I use grease or oil instead of wax?
I use multi-purpose grease on brake and shifter cables. If you dont lube, the inner cable will grind the casing and rust too. If you do off-road thru mud you may need chain lube with Teflon instead of grease. If you park your bike in a garage or outside the grease could harden though after a few years.
nice video...good job.....brazil here
could you also use squirt chain wax?
Anything with water is gonna cause rust. What are the ingredients???
@@redtobertshateshandles a roughly 40:60 emulsion of wax and water. The idea is that you apply generous amounts to the chain, the water will evaporate or drip off, leaving the wax behind
@@mrT-gx5bq I'd be wary of this as the emulsion will be sealed within the outer cable. It may not dry out like it does on a chain.
Question: Would it be good to have (nylon?)cable ending part inside the derailleur's hole for cable, to prevent rubbing cable over derailleur ?
(Screenshot: prnt.sc/wbjdk6)
Recently I saw this part inside used derailleur that I bought.
Dont know the right naming for this simple part, Similar part we have inside the road shifters, it covers cable end for 3-4 cm length (not the aluminum end cap!).
The new XTR Dearaileur came with it by default but not on XT and below. It's call cable sleeves.
@@zepp3lin thank you for clarification. By the way, any risk of damage without it ?
@@evgeniyp1976 So no damages happen on my XT 12speed derailleur. Long term I'm not sure because I've been using it only for the past 3 months.
where did you buy the cable?
I will try it, because I upgrading my wifes bike to 1x12 speed
This type of bike is very powerful what's the name of it?
It's a Romet Dagger 2.0
What does that protuberance in the shock do?
If you’re talking about that tiny cylinder, its a reservoir for damping fluid. When you compress the shock , the shaft displaces a little bit of oil, and it goes to the reservoir. Inline shocks have one too, but located inside. When it is outside like this one, the damper holds more oil, and it can be cooled by the outside air, leading to more consistent damping even on long downhill runs. Its also called an IFP, or a piggyback.
It’s a piggyback reservoir. Common on a lot of shocks.
Nice video, liked and subbed...
Don't use oil, I found it freezes and then shifting doesn't work at all!
not sure what oil you are using but oil does not freeze like that, hell even if it is in the -20c it is more like butter than frozen solid, if your oil is freezing solid then it is probably not good oil or is contaminated or it is simply really cold and if that is the case i would be more concerned with my hydraulic brakes freezing up
does the bike have a weight limit ?
A mountain bike's weight limit varies per type, with some models built for up to 550 pounds maximum weight capacity. The structural weight limit is provided by bike manufacturers, and it's the maximum combined weight of the cargo and rider. On average, the weight restriction for a mountain bike is 300 pounds. Wheels have weight limits.
Most full suspension mountain bikes have adjustable suspension so you can add or delete air pressure to deal with rider weight
Well i don´t have to do this, cause freaking XX1 AXS 😂
Seems like you opened the box of pandora 😅
Does anyone have a solution for cold winter days? my gearing goes frozen
don't lube your cables lol
@@RealMTBAddict i dont but in extreme cold days i have problem
@@TheC238 Do you mean your cassette freezes up, or that your shifting doesn’t work?
@@CodSlap my shifting goes frozen and doesn’t work
Replace your cables and housing.