So many mechanics are just out to rip people off. Between this and companies against right to repair, the cost of simple maintenance has increased exponentially. Once you find a trustworthy mechanic, dont go anywhere else and/or learn to do the repairs yourself. great job on this repair!
also seems like industry standard of laziness is everywhere. Repair some software code. No way we are going to release a whole new version, so we don't have to figure out the broken code.
It’s the companies torturing the mechanics as well. Id be willing to bet that Volvo requires him to replace the entire part. Better to learn the skills to do your own work
Being a a actual mechanic, the new mechanics have no clue how do fix anything they only know how replace. A camping channel on RUclips blew up a springer van rear diff and Mercedes refuse to warranty. They said 10k to replace the complete diff because they didn’t have the tools or the knowledge to rebuild.
Hi Mads. Dress the shaft with some 800 grit emery cloth in strips to help smooth the ridges out in the shaft the lip seals have caused. There is a spec for these seals that will tell you the max wear they will accommodate. Or better still fit an "SKF Speedi Sleeve". This will replace the worn surface. Available from SKF bearings and on their web site. Many sizes made for shafts that are worn or have wear grooves. Sail Safe Guys, Ant & Cid.
Problem is, the distance from the end of the shaft to the seal surface, the tubular driver has to be machined square, the one that comes with the sleeve is comically short, you need access to a open frame press, be it arbor or hydraulic, need a spare sleeve, as a mistake means a wrecked sleeve. At that point if none of the above is available, a new shaft is cheaper, maybe even quicker! Best wishes from the far North.
Watching your video this week with my dad (former machinist). He mentioned that you can also put the race in the freezer for a night, take it out in the morning and drop it in quickly. It will expand as it warms and then you don't need to tap it in.
Given that the boatyard may be a long drive from the house and ice would only reduce the bearing to 32 F, perhaps dry ice (-109 F) would be the best way to chill the bearing before installation.
Or......take the little part of the sail drive that Mads is installing the race into back to the house with. Then, put the race in the freezer overnight and drop it in housing in the morning before you go to the boatyard. @@regel303
I love mechanics like that jackass you mentioned. Because that attitude brings people to good shops (like ours 😁) where a- your money goes a lot further, and b- the shop customer relationship is a very valued commodity. Hell, we once rebuilt a Volvo saildrive in a Beneteau, and without all the fancy Volvo tools. 2 years later, it's still going strong.
In the US, Autozone and Advanced Auto will let you borrow tools. I just borrowed a "blind hole bearing puller" to remove a bearing and seal from Tohatsu outboard motor. I had to buy the tool, and then they refunded the money when I returned it. I call that free. They had some tools that look just like the Volvo tool shown on your video. BTW, your videos are great. I learn from them each week. Keep em coming.
Wrap the gear on the bottom with a belt, serpentine belt something. And let it wrap around till it wedges itself and allows you to tighten but without steel tools resulting in zero gear damage
Mads, the reason I self installed my entire solar array was because I saw all of the parts cost about $8k and the installer wanted to charge me $45k. I get they would have done a nicer job but its been on my roof for 5 years and still working fine. Sometimes DIY is the best bet.
Here in Denmark:They want 20,000 USD (lowest price) for a roof-top solar panel installation. An on the ground install is apparently more expensive because it need Quote them "a very advanced steel construction". I was like, What? I get that each panel needs a pile or screw foundation, but "very advanced steel construction"? Moreover, the guy who are going to install the solar panels on a roof-top needs to have an authorization. I guess that it's about insurance.
Kudos to Ava for taking on a daunting task and such a fine job! Replacing those panels and the isinglass would have cost thousands. Your sister owes you one!
Great video! I also watched your video on the installation of the saildrive in Athena and it was really helpful. I have the same engine and saildrive on my 2006 Tartan 3700 and i am planning on doing the rubber diaphragm and drive shaft seal replacement this fall. We have the "U" configuration - the front of the engine (with the alternator and water pump) faces aft and the saildrive is forward, under the stairs. I agree completely with your DIY philosophy - no better way to get to know your boat and its mechanical systems and also you build the skills and parts inventory for when the "professionals" are not available.
After watching one episode every day for a few months I followed the entire rebuild of Athena. What an amazing journey. If I had half of your talent, patience and perseverance. Great channel.
Hi Mats, I work for a renown Azimuth thruster manufacturer and work on sailboats a lot. regarding the propshaft I recommend to use a small shim at the seal housing so the lips do not run in the same spot. Make sure you clean the new area with 800 grid sanding paper. Also regarding torquing the nut; you can clutch in the thruster ans hold the shaft in place with a screwdriver on the flywheel (startermotor gear). You can then even try to torque from the other side by just holding the nut on the vertical shaft. Because the flywhel has quite a huge diameter. ( what engine do we have here) D2-55 or 40?. Please also check for steel particals from the nut in the upper gear and if needed flush as much as you can with brake clear to make sure everything is out.!!!!!!!! Have fun and I look forward to your results. Regards, Rolf
There is something called a thread file which looks like a saw for threads there made in metric and standard threads buy yourself 2 pairs of each and keep one for Athena and give Julian a set. There like a die for fixing threads but in file form. Hello from Alaska
It's always good to have both a metric and SAE thread file on board. With such a tool you can fix almost any thread unless there's no threads left. On threads as large as those in this video you can usually find a three-sided file that nestles in the threads nicely but that will not do as good a job. You had plenty of threads left I think it'll work great. Thanks for the video guys.
Ran Sailing latest video he was doing a lot of "oh Glorious Sanding"!! Johan said if Mads from "Sail Life" wanted to come and help sanding he was more than welcome!! Perhaps Mads already heard this! CHEERS from Vancouver Isle.
Ava: When we had our Wellcraft we had a TON of clears. We started out using Meguiar's #17 Clear Plastic Cleaner, it was great for hazy glass that was on our original Sea Ray 268 Weekender. It did WONDERS on the old plastics. We used a Harbor Freight buffer (small hand-held buffer), to apply it and buff it in. When we bought the Wellcraft St. Tropez we discovered IMAR Strataglass Protective Polish (#302). HOLY WAH! That stuff was pure magic. We then did maintenance with the IMAR Strataglass Protective Cleaner. Amazon is your friend with this stuff, stay away from paying the big bucks at the Chandlery's. Mads: Yea...welcome to the US and Boat Mechanics. We had our impeller replaced and EVERYBODY we knew said "$800". I was "It's 2 hours total work, and a $25 part". They all said "It's a boat, we charge what we want, don't like it, don't have it". THEN we found "our guy". We learned a lot that first year. This mechanic you had? He didn't want the job. That's what that was. Either that or he was pricing it as an insurance claim. Before we bought our St. Tropez it had a V-Drive put in under insurance (previous owner hit a log, bent the shaft, shifted the v-drive and it ate itself). The insurance paid out over $25K!!!! When I talked to the mechanic why, he laughed and said "INSURANCE" we bill FULL MARKET Price on all insurance, and our customers would get a MUCH lower price. I asked "how much lower", he said "about half". WOW. As for "Liability"? Find me a mechanic that will honor their work beyond a single season, none in my area that's for sure. NONE. They might give "12 months" which is nothing for my area since we're all on the hard for 7 months a year, many are 30 or 90 days.
Big thumb up for keeping the DIY attitude and not get ripped off by the "professional"... 👍 Ava did a great job on rejuvenating the textile stuff, nice idea with the tarp under it, I would have totally missed on that and got stuck with all the grass on the workpieces... 🤪
Yeah, boat repairs by "Professionals" can get squirely for sure. As a matter of prudence though, seeing as that upper shaft had probably been wobbling around, I would check the top bearing or seat. Great video...John
I have done the shaft seals several times and there is a company in England called Speedi Sleeve who make a fine engineered sleeve that is designed to fit over the grooved shaft and provide a new surface for the seals to seal on . Its a simple job to fit them . . I always drain the leg for a few days before removing the shafts too , saves all the oil spraying out over shoes/ floor !Also find new seals which are a correct fit to the shaft , there 100,s of sizes available to enable a better sized seal AND , use a double lip seal instead of a single , remember too whenever buying seals that the internal spring MUST be s/steel , standard springs will rust away quickly and lose their tension .
The quote you received has what my husband and I call the hassle factor multiplier. Over the years we have learned that when you want something repaired and the vendor isn't interested in doing it, they quote an outrageous price. If you take their quote, they get a boat load of profit for something that they didn't want to do. And if the customer doesn't want to pay it, then he is not doing a job he didn't want to take.
I have a plumber friend that said the exact same thing. Because many customers will believe that no matter how busy you are, you could always work another hour or two and squeeze their job in. Making you look like the bad guy if you don't agree to do the job. But Mad's quote seemed like straight up taking advantage rather than hassle compensation.
My experience in dealing with marine mechanics is the same as yours. The high dollar option is usually the go-to option. Yeah, it makes them the most profit. Why repair when you can replace .
To really clean up any kind of canvas glass, you can use metal polish like a mothers and/or Flitz. These are essentially a very fine rubbing compound and they remove the very top layer and remove scuffs, light scratches and sun damage that causes fog. I saved myself a lot of money by buffing out all of my glass and the difference was incredible.
17:08 welcome to the US Mads. This is the norm for repair businesses. I work as a handyman in the northwest and contractors do the same thing for the same reason. We've done many jobs that contractors walked away from because of the bottom line for them or they simple did not have the knowledge to do component repair.
Did you check the removed oil for metal particals. That amount of run time on that drive cause the seal wear of the output shaft. Replace all of the lower unit parts bearings, shafts, and gears. Also, I wouldn't use lock tight or other products in a gear box unless mentioned and specified by the manufacturer. Foriegn materials like locktight can break free and get into the gears and bearings and damage to finish surfaces of those parts and cause failure. I'm speaking from experience.
Following you for years. You fail to mention. Out of humility, that you may just know more that than the do. Appropriate fix. Required a bit of cleanup but that repair is appropriate. 👍
Well done and very kind of your explanation for the guy that is clearly incompetent and overcharging. The saying goes “it takes amateur to over build it, but it takes a professional to truly F it up for 10 times the price.“ 😂
This is the best video on mechanical repairs I've seen from you. For me, it is the go-to video on saildrive oilseal replacement. Excellent detail as well as wider generic discussion about some of the 'maintenance professionals' - teaching us all not to rush in, in a panic, but to go through options. One thing, I love the way you are always able to go to a 'shop' wherever you are and get the bits required. I need your aquisition skills in Morocco, where finding the most basic marine part is nigh impossible. The beauty of the USA...
Welcome to America, where everybody sues everybody. Even if that mechanic is way out his comfortzone to repair it, I understand the approach. It's a hassle free, when things go south he always is able to get back to Volvo. On top of it he gets a saildrive he can recondition during slow season and make additional bucks on that ;) But $500 an hour. wow. I should go to america.
Per the drive shaft seal grooves... there is a thing called a speedy sleeve that I've used in that situation to restore a seal surface. It is a super thing cylinder that gets pressed on to the shaft providing a fresh surface for the seal to ride on.
The only thing that troubles me a little about the fix is the vertical shaft spline wear, which as you noted was allowing the gear to rattle around a fair bit. With load reversals that movement, which should be zero to minimal, may well loosen the nut again. A common solution that I’ve used for similar snags is to use loctite “stud & bearing fit” on the splines to take up the play. If you need to remove the gear at a later date, a little heat from a blowtorch will release the bond. Obviously, you should also still use loctite red threadlock or similar on the threads. If the splines are badly worn you can use a product like Devcon which is a metal filled epoxy to do the same job. It is commonly used for things like press and injection moulding die repair so it’s pretty tough. Again, it can be released with heat but it needs a fair bit more than the bearing fit product, so there is the potential to affect the gear’s hardening if you’re not careful, it’s usually ok though unless you go crazy with the torch. I’d certainly go with stud & bearing fit this time though, the play really was quite noticeable. Fwiw, I’m a 60+ year old ex-motorsports engineer who got out of the industry at 45 years old and went off to be a liveaboard marine engineer for the next 10 years. I’m also as tight as a duck’s azz when it comes to fixing my own stuff and really hate having to do the same job twice when it’s preventable. Cheers, R. 😎👍🍻
Was the movement not due to the nut being loos. After the new nut was fitter that spline gear seems to not have any vertical movement anymore, or am I missing something?
@@deriknovella8419 You’re right in that replacing the nut and tightening it to the correct torque will remove the end float (the up and down play) from the shaft/gear, but it’s the wear on the spline driving faces that’s the potential snag that ought to be resolved. It can allow a small rotational movement of the gear relative to the shaft that will loosen the nut again over time, no matter how tight it is. As it stands the only thing preventing that rotational movement is friction between the gear and the shoulder on the shaft that it is seated on. When new and undamaged the shaft and gear splines are pretty much a dead fit with no rotational motion between them at all, their entire purpose is to prevent it. That’s why I’m suggesting what is effectively a packing material (a glue that fills the gaps) to prevent that motion by compensating for the wear. It’s likely that everything will be fine until reverse thrust is applied a shade too quickly, before the prop has stopped spinning forward, which happens fairly frequently when coming alongside a marina dock or picking up a laid mooring. Basically, the prop inertia meets a sudden reverse load that puts a lot of shock through that gearset, causing things to shift a little which undoes the nut. It’s not an uncommon problem when splined assemblies have been run, like this one, with the nut loose. Sorry that’s long winded but I’ve just discovered that it’s not actually that easy to explain without having the parts and the person in the same room as me. Respect is due to technical writers, clearly I’m a better engineer than scribe! It’s definitely not a silly question though, hope I’ve helped rather than confused you. Cheers, Rob. 😎👍🍻
Best reply yet on this subject. I'm pretty tight financially myself so I am glad I'll never deal with a saildrive. Way more complexity than I would ever want on a cruising sailboat.
Har desværre mødt mange “professionelle” der har nogle utrolige høje priser. Det undre mig dog at de kan overleve - men jeg fornemme at de gør. Ofte har jeg været henvist til selv at omgøre tingene, hvorfor jeg i dag er temmelig glad for at lave tingene på vores HR46 ;-) Tak for mange gode episoder.
Next time when you have bunged up threads look for a set of thread files. They are a file with the thread pitch machined in. They will follow the angle of the thread with some of the teeth and cut the messed up threads to the right pitch. They are great when you need to clean up some threads. I once had a coworker cut a piece of threaded rod by hand, we were working after hours and no parts available, just a few hours and plenty of can do attitude.
For the groove mark on shaft made by seal, SKF and other companies make a product called " speedi sleeve" . This is basically a very thin tube that you press over shaft to give new smooth surface
Your comments and feelings are 100% correct and is why I have managed to find a way to fix any & everything I own and have a small business doing exactly that for others.
Charleston SC is a VERY expensive town for anything boat related. There are very few reasonably priced marinas or boat yards south of New Bern NC that I know of. DIY yards are becoming a rare thing also.
Well, what did you expect, it's a boat, innit!! Charge what you like mate, or, more precisely, think of a number and triple it! That guy/company who quoted you deserves to go out of business. If you can't do the repair, recommend someone that can, that's how it should work... And I thought the UK was bad - we're not in the same league, fortunately. You are very polite Mads, I wouldn't be! Ava's blooming on the clear panels could be UV damage - try polishing with some liquid Brasso, works sometimes so try a small area first. You can replace the vision panels with Stratoglass (expensive) or O'Sea (nearly as expensive) clear sheet, both of which are UV resistant. Great video.
You're too nice, Mads. The guy was attempting to hose you. We won't mind if you call him an "Adam-Henry." The suggestion below about using a strap wrench or other means to secure the gear and then tighten the nut is just what I would do. Definitely some red Locktite on the nut. I am a now-retired ASE Certified auto tech and this job really would be a reasonably simple one for me.
Matz i understand your concern and all i can say is welcome to the US. Most mechanics prefer to change components rather than fix them. Unfortunate but it is the reality. Great Job!!!
all we normally do is provide the options, customer chooses repair. in the case of the nut the invoice would state no warranty recommend shaft replacement, even with 100% confidence that the repair is serviceable
"That's how it's done." After living in the Caribbean for 15 years I can tell you that is the exact attitude of every named dealer I've dealt with. I was quoted $15,000 to install a new Yanmar in my Hans Christian 48T in the BVI in 2015, if I removed the old engine and prepared new engine mounts. My friends and I did the removal, and new install in 4 days. If you are going to cruise in the Caribbean you better know how to be a plumber, an electrician , engine mechanic, rigger and boat painter. If not you will go broke in a few seasons.
That's not just the Caribbean my friend. Just bought my first sailboat 6 months ago and I've already been plumber, electrician and mechanic. Installed new macerator, some rewiring, installed all my solar and I've removed, cleaned and reinstalled my fuel injectors here in BC Canada. It's nice when the light comes on and you say, "Oh wait. This isn't that hard."
I don't know about Volvo's intervals but when checking the oil level of the sail drive you can visually check the oil. If it gives a milky impression then seawater has passed the outer seal and entered into the drive and you need to replace the seal.
Could be condensation also, which might boil off and no harm done. So best to use the boat periodically and check the transmission oil before and after using it.
For damaged threads like on that vertical shaft, try a thread file. They have a tooth profile that matches the thread pitch, and let you remove damaged metal while leaving as much of the original thread as possible.
A thread file is good for when multiple adjacent threads are damaged and you have tangential access . In this case neither of those applied, as far as I can see. I would snap the end off a suitable die maker's riffler file and tig weld it to a handle at right angles, but that is also not applicable here so I reckon they did great.
As a suggestion , I would recommend replacing both shafts and related bearings and seal assemblies and keep the original shafts as spares. From watching many hours of cruising channels, one of the major problems when in remote corners of the world is the difficulty of getting parts or a mechanic with that particular expertise to make the repair. Then spares become invaluable. But more often than not there is a small boatyard that can get the boat out of the water. In terms of purchasing the specialized Volvo tools, at $400.00 vs the shop rate there is good argument to purchase specialized Volvo tools and then will own them forever. And as your many videos demonstrate, the importance of cruisers should be self reliant as possibly. Your current repair is a good example of that. Love your channel and your meticulous attention to research and detail.
A center punch struck at the junction of the threads on the shaft and nut gives a good jam interference ....deformed threads make a good lock to help the lock tite.
As a mechanic, I understand not wanting to do certain tasks due to liability. I also understand profit. However, I also understand customer service. It shames me to hear things like this, preying on someone’s vulnerability. I agree with a little loctite, that nut should be fine. My hat off to you good sir.
Filing plus Loktite is a good call. If he wants to replace the vertical and horizontal shafts in the lower unit in 5yrs to 7yrs, that's peachy. The horizontal shaft seal wear was likely caused by the nut being MIA, and I would have likely replaced that shaft, as a good seal is crucial to lower unit longevity....something about the ocean on one side and the lube on the other, but that's me, everyone has to make that call on their own given their comfort level. If it was just a coastal cruiser, I would roll the dice on the old shaft, but if ocean crossings are in the future, it would have to go. You are doing a marvelous job on that "relatively new" Cat, and it's very nice of you to donate your experience, critical thinking, and labor to getting her in excellent shape.
Having banned a marine mechanic for almost 40 years here mechanics attitude seems way out of bounds. I think you're right in the decision you made and if you don't law shop around. I am sure that there is somebody locally that has the tools and the knowledge and is willing to help you good luck. I think you made the right decision.
Good job…. You made a great decision by repairing it yourself rather than spend $12,000. Good job I’ll be looking for more of your video. Thank you.🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺👏👏👏👏👏☮️☮️☮️☮️☮️
Mads, if you use locktite make sure it's compatible with being submerged in oil. But I'd clean the shafts threads and the new nut with something like brakkleen and then go ahead with the locktite. The only problem I can see is being able to hold the shaft still while you torque the nut to 80 ft/lb.s. That's quite a bit of torque to try to do with the shaft still in the housing. I think I'd remove the lower unit to reinstall the nut and torque it to spec.s. This mechanic is probably used to sticking it to boaters that don't have the skills you have. Then to justify his unprofessional additude by saying this is how its done is amazing ,but with his additude and seemly lack of mechanical knowledge I'm sure it is how he does his repairs. Some time they use a pointed drift punch and peen the threads after the nuts is tight to secure a nut so it doesn't work loose. I've never worked on a sail drive so I don't know if they punch the threads. I really think once you torque that nut to 80 lb.s it will stay put. If it doesn't you can then replace the lower unit, but for that much money I'd reinstall the nut and check it the next time the boat is pulled out.
The oil that came out of the saildrive looked like it was new. That is impressive.I would have thought that the little exposed metal spring on the new water seal should not be on the outside and exposed to the seawater there. If that spring deteriorated then the tension on the seal would go loose and water could sneak through. Wasn't one of those shafts buggared up from a cross threaded prop fastener bolt in an earlier video? I thought that particular shaft would need to be replaced due to that instead of just the bolt. A way to file the end of the vertical shaft to clean it would be a long strip of sandpaper like from a belt sander. Just pull it back and forth at the ends at a slight angle, turn the shaft from the top.a little and repeat until you get around the entire side. I've done this before in s tight spot to touch up a threaded shaft similar to this. Personally I would just torque the nut and if it makes it to spec it will be good. I don't know if locktite would work in such a gearbox filled with motor oil but it might be an option. Perhaps there is a specialty locktight for this application. What is the worst that can happen? The old sail drive lasted for how many hours without the nut? I bet it came off very soon or it wouldn't have come off at all. It is likely it was never torqued correctly at the assembly line. At 2000 hours or 5 more years check it the next time the oil and seals are replaced and see what goes. If you need to replace the sail drive at any time in the future because it blows up you are in no worse shape that replacing it now. Marine mechanics are a total scam. "That's not the way it is done" means "Hold still while I shake you upside-down and take what falls out of your pockets." The entire Volvo-Penta operation, top down, is a shakedown scam. They don't have customers -they have victims. Their brand-specific user forums should really be called victim support groups.
I've been warned about the V brand on a few occasions regarding availability of parts and price. This episode only confirm it. Thanks Mads. Y brand from now on.
As a long-time shade tree mechanic and DIYer, "That's not how it's done" are fighting words. I might have tried drilling a hole through the shaft and fitting a cotter key, just to ensure that the nut doesn't back off. At $300, I probably would buy a new shaft, just to have it on hand.
I had a shaft seal issue with the heavy wear groove. When I went to buy the new seal which was 12mm wide I mentioned the issue to the bearing/seal guy. he went out back and came back with two 6mm wide seals which worked really well.
SKF offers a repair sleeve for run-in shafts. All conceivable dimensions are offered. I have used these successfully without special tools. A recommendation. As always, very entertaining video!
Maybe you could try a speedy sleeve from SKF to slip over the damaged area where the seals are. I did it on my shaft and it works fine. Not for the threads tough.
If you need to split the saildrive, make sure you get the gasket between the upper and lower in advance. I think the Volvos use a one-time-use paper gasket that is occasionally made out of unobtanium.
Hi Mads, I totally understand you, that mecanic was obviously not a seaman or sailor… I had a boat sink under 15 meters of water, it took us 2 weeks to get to boat (bavaria 44) to float again, all the volvo mechanics said the engine is dead, guess what, 10 days later and less than a 1000€ the engine was back at work, I used her for another 4 year’s with no issues.
Ava, let me recommend Simple Green next time you have a monumental project like that. Easy to use and it really works. Been using it on canvas and clear vinyl for years. Nice job.
Same problem, but only on _some_ output sources. Ava's voice was garbled, but the audio was normal...all other speaking was normal. Then, when I switch to a wired or internal speaker...everything was fine. Weird.
Hi, so nice to see a good DIY guy, not letting a mechanich overcharge you. I for my self has a really reliable mechanics, he only charges 10$ for changing the blinker fluid when he is servicing my car. Naaaa, not true. I change the fluid myself. For the forggy glass, I am no specialist, but would an auto headlight repair kit maybe do the job? Some of these kit even has some UV protection, to use for the last treatment.
Welcome to Charleston. Like anywhere you will find some good marine mechanics, if you’ve lucky, but my experiences here in Charleston is I was never lucky.
I've just read a survey report on an HR with a Volvo Saildrive and the surveyor states the seals require replacing every 7 years, which I imply as being the Volvo recommended lifespan. So 5 years seems about right to me!
When Volvo first launched the Saildrive, they were asked about the service interval for the seal. The story goes that they didn’t know, but to be safe and to avoid product liability issues, they said, 7 years. If anyone has experience of a seal failure, then let us all know, but my experience is that even after 10 years, when replaced, the old seals showed no wear or degradation, and remained supple.
It’s all about, if you don’t really want the job, triple the price and then some. I was going to say cowboy but in this case pirate would be more Applicable
great job on the repair a little ability and commonsence saves money, as to the mechanic quoting that amount of money for the job is the cowards way of saying I don't want the job. A good splooge of red loctite will more than make up for the lost thread and job done for the cost of seals and a nut. the wear grooves on the shaft could be repaired easily with a speedy sleave available from good bearing suppliers it is a stainless steel sleeve only a few thousands thick that fits tightly over the shaft leaving a perfect seal face a little green loctite will ensure it never moves if you're worried but mostly they are just fitted dry a very cheap repair.
don't you always loved that's the way it's always been done comment. And as far as the engine guy you spoke to that's about what you can expect from a lot of these guys these days. I have a 40 ft Foretravel motorcoach. These things have air disc brakes all around. Most RVs have drum brakes. So last year when I took my coach for four new tires we found that one of the rotors in the rear was gouged pretty bad and that the caliper wasn't moving freely. They quoted me $12,000 to do the work but then told me that they couldn't do it because of parts we're not available. I said why don't we just get a rebuilding kit and rebuild it? They said they don't do that. Just replace parts. Then they mentioned that the other caliper on the other dual rear wheel didn't seem to be moving well either in they would need to replace that one as well and again no part. Never did get the price on that one. A friend of mine in Tennessee said come on down and we'll fix it here. I ordered the parts, drove from Oklahoma City to Tennessee with really no brake issues to speak of. And a week my friend and I replaced and rebuilt everything. Maybe 2500$ in parts and some busted knuckles and aching back. Not to mention we had learned valuable new skills. I needed a specialized tool to remove the Piston from the caliper, and I didn't have it so I went to harbor freight and bought something inexpensive and converted it into a workable tool. You're doing the right thing mads. My view of your skills has gone up many notches after this video. When you first talked about buying another boat for another boat project I thought oh no. But I can see that you have a passion for it. And it's better to do it now at your age than at my age. Just make sure your other half is totally into it or that could be a disaster. Speaking of her sound was off but I got the gist of it. She did a nice job polishing that isinglass.
You can buy shaft sleeves to cover the grooves. Around $30 would do it. I sleeved my water pump shaft and it appears to live happily ever after. The water pump shaft is A$790, you'll be needing, bearings and lip seal with that. Lets just call it A$1,000 or A$29 depending on whether it is the way things are done around here. PS. My spinal surgeon only charged A$650 for a laminectomy, I wonder if he instals sail drives.
My boat in grenada has a VP lower unit and it was reported that the same issue has occurred in one of the engines. The boat yard is recommending replacing the lower unit. This video was excellent and every timey. I am wondering what your owner decided to do. My boat was new in 2020. Surprised to have this happen. Mike on Dolce Vita
That story is one reason to do everything diy. I hate boat yards because you waste money for nothing, or just anger! Greets from Germany and we think service in U.S. is phenomenal.😂
Hi Mads you can repair the damaged shaft where the seal runs with what we call in Australia a jiffy sleeve it is a sleeve very thin that fits on the shaft allowing the seal to run on a new surface it is used a lot on crank shafts where the timing chain seal runs cheers from OZ
For under the seals - and to avoid that he seal lips wear the shaft, use seal sleeves (there is a brand that call them speedi sleeves). And: the space between the seals should be well greased.
![Saildrive Diaphragm Replacement | ⛵ Sailing Britaly ⛵ [Boat Work]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/o_Bv7_tAOY4/mqdefault.jpg)
So many mechanics are just out to rip people off. Between this and companies against right to repair, the cost of simple maintenance has increased exponentially. Once you find a trustworthy mechanic, dont go anywhere else and/or learn to do the repairs yourself. great job on this repair!
also seems like industry standard of laziness is everywhere. Repair some software code. No way we are going to release a whole new version, so we don't have to figure out the broken code.
It’s the companies torturing the mechanics as well. Id be willing to bet that Volvo requires him to replace the entire part. Better to learn the skills to do your own work
Being a a actual mechanic, the new mechanics have no clue how do fix anything they only know how replace. A camping channel on RUclips blew up a springer van rear diff and Mercedes refuse to warranty. They said 10k to replace the complete diff because they didn’t have the tools or the knowledge to rebuild.
Loved the message for Volvo Penta at 8:02 😂
Hi Mads. Dress the shaft with some 800 grit emery cloth in strips to help smooth the ridges out in the shaft the lip seals have caused. There is a spec for these seals that will tell you the max wear they will accommodate. Or better still fit an "SKF Speedi Sleeve". This will replace the worn surface. Available from SKF bearings and on their web site. Many sizes made for shafts that are worn or have wear grooves. Sail Safe Guys, Ant & Cid.
Problem is, the distance from the end of the shaft to the seal surface, the tubular driver has to be machined square, the one that comes with the sleeve is comically short, you need access to a open frame press, be it arbor or hydraulic, need a spare sleeve, as a mistake means a wrecked sleeve.
At that point if none of the above is available, a new shaft is cheaper, maybe even quicker!
Best wishes from the far North.
@@carlthor91I used a vacuum cleaner pipe to punch my Speedi sleeves on to the prop shaft. Worked fine
@@johns2242 Awesome, I did some for semi wheel seals. Lots of fun. If you heat them in an oven, you can gain some expansion.
Nina and Julian are fortunate to have your expertise and generosity.
Watching your video this week with my dad (former machinist). He mentioned that you can also put the race in the freezer for a night, take it out in the morning and drop it in quickly. It will expand as it warms and then you don't need to tap it in.
thats bloody brilliant!
Given that the boatyard may be a long drive from the house and ice would only reduce the bearing to 32 F, perhaps dry ice (-109 F) would be the best way to chill the bearing before installation.
Or, heat the aluminum housing with a heat gun. Aluminum expands about twice the rate per degree compared to steel.
Or......take the little part of the sail drive that Mads is installing the race into back to the house with. Then, put the race in the freezer overnight and drop it in housing in the morning before you go to the boatyard. @@regel303
Oh boy, I replaced some races yesterday and my plan was to freeze them first and then I completely forgot! Haha you reminded me! Oops.
I love mechanics like that jackass you mentioned. Because that attitude brings people to good shops (like ours 😁) where a- your money goes a lot further, and b- the shop customer relationship is a very valued commodity. Hell, we once rebuilt a Volvo saildrive in a Beneteau, and without all the fancy Volvo tools. 2 years later, it's still going strong.
In the US, Autozone and Advanced Auto will let you borrow tools. I just borrowed a "blind hole bearing puller" to remove a bearing and seal from Tohatsu outboard motor. I had to buy the tool, and then they refunded the money when I returned it. I call that free. They had some tools that look just like the Volvo tool shown on your video. BTW, your videos are great. I learn from them each week. Keep em coming.
I call that idea fraud.
I use that idea all the time at Home Depot. Often not satisfied with how the tool performed.
Wrap the gear on the bottom with a belt, serpentine belt something. And let it wrap around till it wedges itself and allows you to tighten but without steel tools resulting in zero gear damage
Mads, the reason I self installed my entire solar array was because I saw all of the parts cost about $8k and the installer wanted to charge me $45k. I get they would have done a nicer job but its been on my roof for 5 years and still working fine. Sometimes DIY is the best bet.
Here in Denmark:They want 20,000 USD (lowest price) for a roof-top solar panel installation.
An on the ground install is apparently more expensive because it need Quote them "a very advanced steel construction".
I was like, What? I get that each panel needs a pile or screw foundation, but "very advanced steel construction"?
Moreover, the guy who are going to install the solar panels on a roof-top needs to have an authorization. I guess that it's about insurance.
Kudos to Ava for taking on a daunting task and such a fine job! Replacing those panels and the isinglass would have cost thousands. Your sister owes you one!
Great video! I also watched your video on the installation of the saildrive in Athena and it was really helpful. I have the same engine and saildrive on my 2006 Tartan 3700 and i am planning on doing the rubber diaphragm and drive shaft seal replacement this fall. We have the "U" configuration - the front of the engine (with the alternator and water pump) faces aft and the saildrive is forward, under the stairs. I agree completely with your DIY philosophy - no better way to get to know your boat and its mechanical systems and also you build the skills and parts inventory for when the "professionals" are not available.
After watching one episode every day for a few months I followed the entire rebuild of Athena. What an amazing journey. If I had half of your talent, patience and perseverance. Great channel.
Loved the shout out to Mads from Johan on Ran sailing this week.
Mads and Ava just amaze me every week! Cheers!
Hi Mats, I work for a renown Azimuth thruster manufacturer and work on sailboats a lot. regarding the propshaft I recommend to use a small shim at the seal housing so the lips do not run in the same spot. Make sure you clean the new area with 800 grid sanding paper. Also regarding torquing the nut; you can clutch in the thruster ans hold the shaft in place with a screwdriver on the flywheel (startermotor gear). You can then even try to torque from the other side by just holding the nut on the vertical shaft. Because the flywhel has quite a huge diameter. ( what engine do we have here) D2-55 or 40?.
Please also check for steel particals from the nut in the upper gear and if needed flush as much as you can with brake clear to make sure everything is out.!!!!!!!!
Have fun and I look forward to your results.
Regards,
Rolf
There is something called a thread file which looks like a saw for threads there made in metric and standard threads buy yourself 2 pairs of each and keep one for Athena and give Julian a set. There like a die for fixing threads but in file form. Hello from Alaska
There is a simple fix for the groove in the shaft, it is called a “ speedy sleeve” by SKF. Cheap solution for a very long time.
It's always good to have both a metric and SAE thread file on board. With such a tool you can fix almost any thread unless there's no threads left. On threads as large as those in this video you can usually find a three-sided file that nestles in the threads nicely but that will not do as good a job. You had plenty of threads left I think it'll work great. Thanks for the video guys.
Ran Sailing latest video he was doing a lot of "oh Glorious Sanding"!! Johan said if Mads from "Sail Life" wanted to come and help sanding he was more than welcome!! Perhaps Mads already heard this! CHEERS from Vancouver Isle.
Ava: When we had our Wellcraft we had a TON of clears. We started out using Meguiar's #17 Clear Plastic Cleaner, it was great for hazy glass that was on our original Sea Ray 268 Weekender. It did WONDERS on the old plastics. We used a Harbor Freight buffer (small hand-held buffer), to apply it and buff it in. When we bought the Wellcraft St. Tropez we discovered IMAR Strataglass Protective Polish (#302). HOLY WAH! That stuff was pure magic. We then did maintenance with the IMAR Strataglass Protective Cleaner. Amazon is your friend with this stuff, stay away from paying the big bucks at the Chandlery's.
Mads: Yea...welcome to the US and Boat Mechanics. We had our impeller replaced and EVERYBODY we knew said "$800". I was "It's 2 hours total work, and a $25 part". They all said "It's a boat, we charge what we want, don't like it, don't have it". THEN we found "our guy". We learned a lot that first year. This mechanic you had? He didn't want the job. That's what that was. Either that or he was pricing it as an insurance claim. Before we bought our St. Tropez it had a V-Drive put in under insurance (previous owner hit a log, bent the shaft, shifted the v-drive and it ate itself). The insurance paid out over $25K!!!! When I talked to the mechanic why, he laughed and said "INSURANCE" we bill FULL MARKET Price on all insurance, and our customers would get a MUCH lower price. I asked "how much lower", he said "about half". WOW. As for "Liability"? Find me a mechanic that will honor their work beyond a single season, none in my area that's for sure. NONE. They might give "12 months" which is nothing for my area since we're all on the hard for 7 months a year, many are 30 or 90 days.
Big thumb up for keeping the DIY attitude and not get ripped off by the "professional"...
👍
Ava did a great job on rejuvenating the textile stuff, nice idea with the tarp under it, I would have totally missed on that and got stuck with all the grass on the workpieces...
🤪
Yeah, boat repairs by "Professionals" can get squirely for sure. As a matter of prudence though, seeing as that upper shaft had probably been wobbling around, I would check the top bearing or seat. Great video...John
"trust" THE science..only one option allowed
I have done the shaft seals several times and there is a company in England called Speedi Sleeve who make a fine engineered sleeve that is designed to fit over the grooved shaft and provide a new surface for the seals to seal on . Its a simple job to fit them . . I always drain the leg for a few days before removing the shafts too , saves all the oil spraying out over shoes/ floor !Also find new seals which are a correct fit to the shaft , there 100,s of sizes available to enable a better sized seal AND , use a double lip seal instead of a single , remember too whenever buying seals that the internal spring MUST be s/steel , standard springs will rust away quickly and lose their tension .
The quote you received has what my husband and I call the hassle factor multiplier. Over the years we have learned that when you want something repaired and the vendor isn't interested in doing it, they quote an outrageous price. If you take their quote, they get a boat load of profit for something that they didn't want to do. And if the customer doesn't want to pay it, then he is not doing a job he didn't want to take.
I have a plumber friend that said the exact same thing. Because many customers will believe that no matter how busy you are, you could always work another hour or two and squeeze their job in. Making you look like the bad guy if you don't agree to do the job.
But Mad's quote seemed like straight up taking advantage rather than hassle compensation.
My experience in dealing with marine mechanics is the same as yours. The high dollar option is usually the go-to option. Yeah, it makes them the most profit. Why repair when you can replace .
Can't imagine how a mechanic like the one you describe can stay in business with his attitude toward repair work.
Thanks for taking the time to explain different options and reminding everyone that you cannot always just trust the opinion of a professional expert.
To really clean up any kind of canvas glass, you can use metal polish like a mothers and/or Flitz. These are essentially a very fine rubbing compound and they remove the very top layer and remove scuffs, light scratches and sun damage that causes fog. I saved myself a lot of money by buffing out all of my glass and the difference was incredible.
Finding a good mechanic is as difficult as finding wife (husband). Ava has hit the jackpot.
17:08 welcome to the US Mads. This is the norm for repair businesses. I work as a handyman in the northwest and contractors do the same thing for the same reason. We've done many jobs that contractors walked away from because of the bottom line for them or they simple did not have the knowledge to do component repair.
Did you check the removed oil for metal particals. That amount of run time on that drive cause the seal wear of the output shaft. Replace all of the lower unit parts bearings, shafts, and gears. Also, I wouldn't use lock tight or other products in a gear box unless mentioned and specified by the manufacturer. Foriegn materials like locktight can break free and get into the gears and bearings and damage to finish surfaces of those parts and cause failure. I'm speaking from experience.
locktite the nut and torque it as much as you can
To fix the nut put lock tote on it and tighten it up. That will help keep it from losing up by it self. Good luck.
Following you for years. You fail to mention. Out of humility, that you may just know more that than the do. Appropriate fix. Required a bit of cleanup but that repair is appropriate. 👍
I think you were shafted by the mechanic... 😁
Well done and very kind of your explanation for the guy that is clearly incompetent and overcharging. The saying goes “it takes amateur to over build it, but it takes a professional to truly F it up for 10 times the price.“
😂
This is the best video on mechanical repairs I've seen from you. For me, it is the go-to video on saildrive oilseal replacement. Excellent detail as well as wider generic discussion about some of the 'maintenance professionals' - teaching us all not to rush in, in a panic, but to go through options. One thing, I love the way you are always able to go to a 'shop' wherever you are and get the bits required. I need your aquisition skills in Morocco, where finding the most basic marine part is nigh impossible. The beauty of the USA...
Great idea that Ava can handle the "soft" repairs on a boat
Welcome to America, where everybody sues everybody. Even if that mechanic is way out his comfortzone to repair it, I understand the approach. It's a hassle free, when things go south he always is able to get back to Volvo. On top of it he gets a saildrive he can recondition during slow season and make additional bucks on that ;) But $500 an hour. wow. I should go to america.
Per the drive shaft seal grooves... there is a thing called a speedy sleeve that I've used in that situation to restore a seal surface. It is a super thing cylinder that gets pressed on to the shaft providing a fresh surface for the seal to ride on.
The only thing that troubles me a little about the fix is the vertical shaft spline wear, which as you noted was allowing the gear to rattle around a fair bit.
With load reversals that movement, which should be zero to minimal, may well loosen the nut again.
A common solution that I’ve used for similar snags is to use loctite “stud & bearing fit” on the splines to take up the play. If you need to remove the gear at a later date, a little heat from a blowtorch will release the bond.
Obviously, you should also still use loctite red threadlock or similar on the threads.
If the splines are badly worn you can use a product like Devcon which is a metal filled epoxy to do the same job. It is commonly used for things like press and injection moulding die repair so it’s pretty tough.
Again, it can be released with heat but it needs a fair bit more than the bearing fit product, so there is the potential to affect the gear’s hardening if you’re not careful, it’s usually ok though unless you go crazy with the torch.
I’d certainly go with stud & bearing fit this time though, the play really was quite noticeable.
Fwiw, I’m a 60+ year old ex-motorsports engineer who got out of the industry at 45 years old and went off to be a liveaboard marine engineer for the next 10 years.
I’m also as tight as a duck’s azz when it comes to fixing my own stuff and really hate having to do the same job twice when it’s preventable.
Cheers, R. 😎👍🍻
Was the movement not due to the nut being loos. After the new nut was fitter that spline gear seems to not have any vertical movement anymore, or am I missing something?
@@deriknovella8419 You’re right in that replacing the nut and tightening it to the correct torque will remove the end float (the up and down play) from the shaft/gear, but it’s the wear on the spline driving faces that’s the potential snag that ought to be resolved. It can allow a small rotational movement of the gear relative to the shaft that will loosen the nut again over time, no matter how tight it is.
As it stands the only thing preventing that rotational movement is friction between the gear and the shoulder on the shaft that it is seated on.
When new and undamaged the shaft and gear splines are pretty much a dead fit with no rotational motion between them at all, their entire purpose is to prevent it.
That’s why I’m suggesting what is effectively a packing material (a glue that fills the gaps) to prevent that motion by compensating for the wear.
It’s likely that everything will be fine until reverse thrust is applied a shade too quickly, before the prop has stopped spinning forward, which happens fairly frequently when coming alongside a marina dock or picking up a laid mooring.
Basically, the prop inertia meets a sudden reverse load that puts a lot of shock through that gearset, causing things to shift a little which undoes the nut.
It’s not an uncommon problem when splined assemblies have been run, like this one, with the nut loose.
Sorry that’s long winded but I’ve just discovered that it’s not actually that easy to explain without having the parts and the person in the same room as me.
Respect is due to technical writers, clearly I’m a better engineer than scribe!
It’s definitely not a silly question though, hope I’ve helped rather than confused you.
Cheers, Rob. 😎👍🍻
@@robm.4512 Sweet and thank you for the explanation. Now I understand it much better as well. Thank you
Best reply yet on this subject. I'm pretty tight financially myself so I am glad I'll never deal with a saildrive. Way more complexity than I would ever want on a cruising sailboat.
Har desværre mødt mange “professionelle” der har nogle utrolige høje priser. Det undre mig dog at de kan overleve - men jeg fornemme at de gør. Ofte har jeg været henvist til selv at omgøre tingene, hvorfor jeg i dag er temmelig glad for at lave tingene på vores HR46 ;-)
Tak for mange gode episoder.
Next time when you have bunged up threads look for a set of thread files. They are a file with the thread pitch machined in. They will follow the angle of the thread with some of the teeth and cut the messed up threads to the right pitch. They are great when you need to clean up some threads. I once had a coworker cut a piece of threaded rod by hand, we were working after hours and no parts available, just a few hours and plenty of can do attitude.
For the groove mark on shaft made by seal, SKF and other companies make a product called " speedi sleeve" . This is basically a very thin tube that you press over shaft to give new smooth surface
Your comments and feelings are 100% correct and is why I have managed to find a way to fix any & everything I own and have a small business doing exactly that for others.
Charleston SC is a VERY expensive town for anything boat related. There are very few reasonably priced marinas or boat yards south of New Bern NC that I know of. DIY yards are becoming a rare thing also.
You used to be able to by things called speedy sleeves to cover grooves like those on the shaft.
Well, what did you expect, it's a boat, innit!! Charge what you like mate, or, more precisely, think of a number and triple it! That guy/company who quoted you deserves to go out of business. If you can't do the repair, recommend someone that can, that's how it should work... And I thought the UK was bad - we're not in the same league, fortunately. You are very polite Mads, I wouldn't be! Ava's blooming on the clear panels could be UV damage - try polishing with some liquid Brasso, works sometimes so try a small area first. You can replace the vision panels with Stratoglass (expensive) or O'Sea (nearly as expensive) clear sheet, both of which are UV resistant. Great video.
You're too nice, Mads. The guy was attempting to hose you. We won't mind if you call him an "Adam-Henry." The suggestion below about using a strap wrench or other means to secure the gear and then tighten the nut is just what I would do. Definitely some red Locktite on the nut. I am a now-retired ASE Certified auto tech and this job really would be a reasonably simple one for me.
Matz i understand your concern and all i can say is welcome to the US. Most mechanics prefer to change components rather than fix them. Unfortunate but it is the reality.
Great Job!!!
all we normally do is provide the options, customer chooses repair. in the case of the nut the invoice would state no warranty recommend shaft replacement, even with 100% confidence that the repair is serviceable
"That's how it's done." After living in the Caribbean for 15 years I can tell you that is the exact attitude of every named dealer I've dealt with. I was quoted $15,000 to install a new Yanmar in my Hans Christian 48T in the BVI in 2015, if I removed the old engine and prepared new engine mounts. My friends and I did the removal, and new install in 4 days. If you are going to cruise in the Caribbean you better know how to be a plumber, an electrician , engine mechanic, rigger and boat painter. If not you will go broke in a few seasons.
That's not just the Caribbean my friend. Just bought my first sailboat 6 months ago and I've already been plumber, electrician and mechanic. Installed new macerator, some rewiring, installed all my solar and I've removed, cleaned and reinstalled my fuel injectors here in BC Canada. It's nice when the light comes on and you say, "Oh wait. This isn't that hard."
I don't know about Volvo's intervals but when checking the oil level of the sail drive you can visually check the oil. If it gives a milky impression then seawater has passed the outer seal and entered into the drive and you need to replace the seal.
Could be condensation also, which might boil off and no harm done. So best to use the boat periodically and check the transmission oil before and after using it.
For damaged threads like on that vertical shaft, try a thread file. They have a tooth profile that matches the thread pitch, and let you remove damaged metal while leaving as much of the original thread as possible.
Yes there are special thread files for just the issue you have.
@@jackdbur username checks out!!!
Maybe not possible with the access they have through a 4" hole.
@@TR4zest If you can get the geared shaft in then a thread file will fit. Mine is less than half an inch square.
A thread file is good for when multiple adjacent threads are damaged and you have tangential access . In this case neither of those applied, as far as I can see. I would snap the end off a suitable die maker's riffler file and tig weld it to a handle at right angles, but that is also not applicable here so I reckon they did great.
As a suggestion , I would recommend replacing both shafts and related bearings and seal assemblies and keep the original shafts as spares. From watching many hours of cruising channels, one of the major problems when in remote corners of the world is the difficulty of getting parts or a mechanic with that particular expertise to make the repair. Then spares become invaluable. But more often than not there is a small boatyard that can get the boat out of the water. In terms of purchasing the specialized Volvo tools, at $400.00 vs the shop rate there is good argument to purchase specialized Volvo tools and then will own them forever. And as your many videos demonstrate, the importance of cruisers should be self reliant as possibly. Your current repair is a good example of that. Love your channel and your meticulous attention to research and detail.
You were too kind Mads. I'm glad to see you stuck to "that's not how its done around Mads" rule.
A center punch struck at the junction of the threads on the shaft and nut gives a good jam interference ....deformed threads make a good lock to help the lock tite.
As a mechanic, I understand not wanting to do certain tasks due to liability. I also understand profit. However, I also understand customer service. It shames me to hear things like this, preying on someone’s vulnerability. I agree with a little loctite, that nut should be fine. My hat off to you good sir.
Filing plus Loktite is a good call. If he wants to replace the vertical and horizontal shafts in the lower unit in 5yrs to 7yrs, that's peachy. The horizontal shaft seal wear was likely caused by the nut being MIA, and I would have likely replaced that shaft, as a good seal is crucial to lower unit longevity....something about the ocean on one side and the lube on the other, but that's me, everyone has to make that call on their own given their comfort level. If it was just a coastal cruiser, I would roll the dice on the old shaft, but if ocean crossings are in the future, it would have to go. You are doing a marvelous job on that "relatively new" Cat, and it's very nice of you to donate your experience, critical thinking, and labor to getting her in excellent shape.
Having banned a marine mechanic for almost 40 years here mechanics attitude seems way out of bounds.
I think you're right in the decision you made and if you don't law shop around. I am sure that there is somebody locally that has the tools and the knowledge and is willing to help you good luck.
I think you made the right decision.
I’m a mechanic ,and I use a thread file to clean messed up threads. Look into one good thing to have in your tool box!
Good job…. You made a great decision by repairing it yourself rather than spend $12,000. Good job I’ll be looking for more of your video. Thank you.🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺👏👏👏👏👏☮️☮️☮️☮️☮️
No sound Ava. Great fun listening to the rest off the show 😂
Mads, if you use locktite make sure it's compatible with being submerged in oil. But I'd clean the shafts threads and the new nut with something like brakkleen and then go ahead with the locktite. The only problem I can see is being able to hold the shaft still while you torque the nut to 80 ft/lb.s.
That's quite a bit of torque to try to do with the shaft still in the housing. I think I'd remove the lower unit to reinstall the nut and torque it to spec.s.
This mechanic is probably used to sticking it to boaters that don't have the skills you have. Then to justify his unprofessional additude by saying this is how its done is amazing ,but with his additude and seemly lack of mechanical knowledge I'm sure it is how he does his repairs.
Some time they use a pointed drift punch and peen the threads after the nuts is tight to secure a nut so it doesn't work loose. I've never worked on a sail drive so I don't know if they punch the threads.
I really think once you torque that nut to 80 lb.s it will stay put. If it doesn't you can then replace the lower unit, but for that much money I'd reinstall the nut and check it the next time the boat is pulled out.
And peen it in three symmetrical locations
Hi guys great stuff again I hope you put treadlocker on the nut or tap and put a grub screw on it
The great thing here (and in so many of your vids), is that you do your research and learn how to fix things yourself👍👍👍😊
I appreciate your videos I wait for every episode
thanks to you I fell in love with sailing and yachting you are great thank you🙏🏻
The oil that came out of the saildrive looked like it was new. That is impressive.I would have thought that the little exposed metal spring on the new water seal should not be on the outside and exposed to the seawater there. If that spring deteriorated then the tension on the seal would go loose and water could sneak through.
Wasn't one of those shafts buggared up from a cross threaded prop fastener bolt in an earlier video? I thought that particular shaft would need to be replaced due to that instead of just the bolt.
A way to file the end of the vertical shaft to clean it would be a long strip of sandpaper like from a belt sander. Just pull it back and forth at the ends at a slight angle, turn the shaft from the top.a little and repeat until you get around the entire side. I've done this before in s tight spot to touch up a threaded shaft similar to this.
Personally I would just torque the nut and if it makes it to spec it will be good. I don't know if locktite would work in such a gearbox filled with motor oil but it might be an option. Perhaps there is a specialty locktight for this application.
What is the worst that can happen? The old sail drive lasted for how many hours without the nut? I bet it came off very soon or it wouldn't have come off at all. It is likely it was never torqued correctly at the assembly line. At 2000 hours or 5 more years check it the next time the oil and seals are replaced and see what goes. If you need to replace the sail drive at any time in the future because it blows up you are in no worse shape that replacing it now.
Marine mechanics are a total scam. "That's not the way it is done" means "Hold still while I shake you upside-down and take what falls out of your pockets." The entire Volvo-Penta operation, top down, is a shakedown scam. They don't have customers -they have victims. Their brand-specific user forums should really be called victim support groups.
I've been warned about the V brand on a few occasions regarding availability of parts and price. This episode only confirm it. Thanks Mads. Y brand from now on.
I’m with you Mas. Expect is a word to use cautiously. There is no experience better than attempting and learning for yourself.
As a long-time shade tree mechanic and DIYer, "That's not how it's done" are fighting words. I might have tried drilling a hole through the shaft and fitting a cotter key, just to ensure that the nut doesn't back off. At $300, I probably would buy a new shaft, just to have it on hand.
I had a shaft seal issue with the heavy wear groove. When I went to buy the new seal which was 12mm wide I mentioned the issue to the bearing/seal guy. he went out back and came back with two 6mm wide seals which worked really well.
SKF offers a repair sleeve for run-in shafts. All conceivable dimensions are offered. I have used these successfully without special tools. A recommendation.
As always, very entertaining video!
Maybe you could try a speedy sleeve from SKF to slip over the damaged area where the seals are. I did it on my shaft and it works fine. Not for the threads tough.
If you need to split the saildrive, make sure you get the gasket between the upper and lower in advance. I think the Volvos use a one-time-use paper gasket that is occasionally made out of unobtanium.
Hi Mads, I totally understand you, that mecanic was obviously not a seaman or sailor… I had a boat sink under 15 meters of water, it took us 2 weeks to get to boat (bavaria 44) to float again, all the volvo mechanics said the engine is dead, guess what, 10 days later and less than a 1000€ the engine was back at work, I used her for another 4 year’s with no issues.
Great video! Insightful comments on some in the US Marine Service Industry.
Excellent job as usual.
I wonder if that mechanic sees your videos. I’d love to know his thoughts if he did se it. That’d be good for a laugh
Ava, let me recommend Simple Green next time you have a monumental project like that. Easy to use and it really works. Been using it on canvas and clear vinyl for years. Nice job.
The audio was weird during Ava's segment. But it was good for all the others. Don’t get ripped off by bad mechanics!
Les sous-titres automatiques n'étaient pas disponible pendant le segment d'Ava.
Same problem, but only on _some_ output sources. Ava's voice was garbled, but the audio was normal...all other speaking was normal. Then, when I switch to a wired or internal speaker...everything was fine. Weird.
Hi, so nice to see a good DIY guy, not letting a mechanich overcharge you. I for my self has a really reliable mechanics, he only charges 10$ for changing the blinker fluid when he is servicing my car. Naaaa, not true. I change the fluid myself.
For the forggy glass, I am no specialist, but would an auto headlight repair kit maybe do the job? Some of these kit even has some UV protection, to use for the last treatment.
Welcome to Charleston. Like anywhere you will find some good marine mechanics, if you’ve lucky, but my experiences here in Charleston is I was never lucky.
There is a thread file as well, run it over the threads to fix them,
I've just read a survey report on an HR with a Volvo Saildrive and the surveyor states the seals require replacing every 7 years, which I imply as being the Volvo recommended lifespan. So 5 years seems about right to me!
When Volvo first launched the Saildrive, they were asked about the service interval for the seal. The story goes that they didn’t know, but to be safe and to avoid product liability issues, they said, 7 years. If anyone has experience of a seal failure, then let us all know, but my experience is that even after 10 years, when replaced, the old seals showed no wear or degradation, and remained supple.
Marinas should have a "loan-a-tool" program like auto parts stores have.
It’s all about, if you don’t really want the job, triple the price and then some. I was going to say cowboy but in this case pirate would be more Applicable
great job on the repair a little ability and commonsence saves money, as to the mechanic quoting that amount of money for the job is the cowards way of saying I don't want the job. A good splooge of red loctite will more than make up for the lost thread and job done for the cost of seals and a nut. the wear grooves on the shaft could be repaired easily with a speedy sleave available from good bearing suppliers it is a stainless steel sleeve only a few thousands thick that fits tightly over the shaft leaving a perfect seal face a little green loctite will ensure it never moves if you're worried but mostly they are just fitted dry a very cheap repair.
Kudos Mads, you sir are wise.
don't you always loved that's the way it's always been done comment. And as far as the engine guy you spoke to that's about what you can expect from a lot of these guys these days. I have a 40 ft Foretravel motorcoach. These things have air disc brakes all around. Most RVs have drum brakes. So last year when I took my coach for four new tires we found that one of the rotors in the rear was gouged pretty bad and that the caliper wasn't moving freely. They quoted me $12,000 to do the work but then told me that they couldn't do it because of parts we're not available. I said why don't we just get a rebuilding kit and rebuild it? They said they don't do that. Just replace parts. Then they mentioned that the other caliper on the other dual rear wheel didn't seem to be moving well either in they would need to replace that one as well and again no part. Never did get the price on that one. A friend of mine in Tennessee said come on down and we'll fix it here. I ordered the parts, drove from Oklahoma City to Tennessee with really no brake issues to speak of. And a week my friend and I replaced and rebuilt everything. Maybe 2500$ in parts and some busted knuckles and aching back. Not to mention we had learned valuable new skills. I needed a specialized tool to remove the Piston from the caliper, and I didn't have it so I went to harbor freight and bought something inexpensive and converted it into a workable tool. You're doing the right thing mads. My view of your skills has gone up many notches after this video.
When you first talked about buying another boat for another boat project I thought oh no. But I can see that you have a passion for it. And it's better to do it now at your age than at my age.
Just make sure your other half is totally into it or that could be a disaster. Speaking of her sound was off but I got the gist of it. She did a nice job polishing that isinglass.
You can buy shaft sleeves to cover the grooves. Around $30 would do it. I sleeved my water pump shaft and it appears to live happily ever after. The water pump shaft is A$790, you'll be needing, bearings and lip seal with that. Lets just call it A$1,000 or A$29 depending on whether it is the way things are done around here. PS. My spinal surgeon only charged A$650 for a laminectomy, I wonder if he instals sail drives.
Possibly it would have made life easier if you guys used a thread file. They are super handy and not that expensive for fixing threads.
My boat in grenada has a VP lower unit and it was reported that the same issue has occurred in one of the engines. The boat yard is recommending replacing the lower unit. This video was excellent and every timey. I am wondering what your owner decided to do. My boat was new in 2020. Surprised to have this happen.
Mike on Dolce Vita
That story is one reason to do everything diy. I hate boat yards because you waste money for nothing, or just anger! Greets from Germany and we think service in U.S. is phenomenal.😂
Hi - please include the link(s) that Eva mentioned regarding Sailrite Guides to cleaning fabrics. As always, great videos! Thanks.
Another great job Mads and Ava!
Hi Mads you can repair the damaged shaft where the seal runs with what we call in Australia a jiffy sleeve it is a sleeve very thin that fits on the shaft allowing the seal to run on a new surface it is used a lot on crank shafts where the timing chain seal runs cheers from OZ
As always. Love it. Keeping it real. ❤️
They make special thread repair files that are amazing. They come with all 8 different TPIs on them. McMaster-Carr
Excellent thanks 👍(shaft seals)
For under the seals - and to avoid that he seal lips wear the shaft, use seal sleeves (there is a brand that call them speedi sleeves). And: the space between the seals should be well greased.
😀8:00 You are a legend Mads!