So glad to find your channel. Thanks for your direct, honest, unbiased, unpaid-for reviews and prodcut updates; it is helpful. I have used the Iwata HP-CS for a couple years now and love the performance, quality and availibility of parts and accessories. Works great with a lot of different paints and thinners, however I generally use Tamiya acrylics with Createx 4013 reducer and the usage, cleaning, and outcome is consistently excellent. Have not tried the new Createx 4021 reducer yet. 100% agree on having a separate airbrushes, one for acyrilics and one for enamels.
@@RWHobbies Tamiya has ones that they say are made by Sparmax (SX), their other airbrushes (HG) look like Iwata/Mr Hobby airbrushes. Not sure but looking at the different brushes the Tamiya HG brushes have very similar screw-on paint cups, trigger grip handle, integrated paint cups to various Mr Hobby and Iwata brushes (mostly the revolution range). Can't say for sure since there is little info on the Tamiya brushes online
Great video Rich...I am tempted by that Procon Boy. Quite rightly it is highly subjective as you note...and people tend to reserve airbrushes for certain jobs. For me it is a Fengda 186 for Priming and base-coating. I use this because it is cheap, robust and easy to clean. Control is good. I then use an HS Infinity CR Plus 0.2 for detail work and any metal (Vallejo Metal Color only). Sometimes my Sparmax does both.
ProconBoy is usually $100-110. I think it is $77 on a Halloween sale. At that price it is a good deal. Hence why I purchased a new one. Those Fengda’s are also great airbrushes for the price. I need to start using mine for primer and not running it through the higher end airbrushes, just like you do.
@RWHobbies Yeah the Fengdas are great for Priming and if you make a stupid mistake like I did (loading the cup then taking a phone call) it's not the end of the world. Over this side of the pond the ProCon Platinum seems to be anywhere between £100-130.
I know you've already put a lot of time and effort into the comparison Rich, but I'd be interested to compare the two with thicker water-based acrylics - especially a primer such as Stynylrez, and then something like an AK 3rd Gen paint. I've picked up a Procon Boy 289 for just over £100 and have started using it - too early for definitive feedback but it's doing a good job so far.
Hey Phil, I don’t use acrylic paints or can recommend Stynlrez when there are better products out there. Mr Surfacer 1500 is an awesome primer and been my go-to for quite some time. Stynlrez/ UMP primer gets too thick once air gets into the tube and it gets slightly older.
@@RWHobbies I agree, Mr Surfacer 1500 with Mr Color Levelling Thinner is 100% the best, but because of the smell I've gone 100% acrylic. Once I've done a bit more work with the Procon Boy I'll give you some feedback, then at least you have that info to hand.
@@RWHobbies I'm delighted with the Procon Boy Ritchie - thanks so much for the recommendation. I'm using UMP's Ultimate Primer straight from the bottle and the results are excellent.
Thank you for the comparison of these airbrushes i do not own a Iwata but do own the 770 and ps 270 of procon range, iam wondering if the needles and head unit are interchangeable. on the 289 and the hp-c ? Thanks agian keep on modeling.
I just checked for you. Head unit different. With Procon you can remove part which holds nozzle. Iwata it is fixed. Both needles appear to be exactly the same and confirmed that both fit in either airbrush.
Would have been useful to have a comparison to Gaahleri airbrushes, as I know you have had samples to review, regardless nice review, thank you. I managed to break a Fengda 3mm 180 nozzle recently when cleaning, 2mm still ok, but very much an ahhhh crap moment. Looking around to get a replacement nozzle I found that much harder to do than I had thought would be the case, so I bought the new nozzle design 183 Fengda, to see what its like.
I deliberately left them off. As I said at the beginning of the video if you want Chinese get the Fengda. Zero point paying for a Gaalheri when you get the Procon for $77 right now. The Japanese made airbrushes are just at another level to the Chinese. Better made, better feeling and will last many years with proper care and maintenance.
@ in my part of the world, excluding a lucky chance moment (not had or seen one, so far), Procon airbrushes, entry level, are all over £120 plus, and not common, except via online sellers, though I must concede thats more than likely not the case in other parts of the UK, and more a regional issue for me. I am no airbrush expert, still relatively new to them, so value as wide a set of opinions as I can find, and it would have been useful to have that comparison. Anyway thank you for your video.
Like you I don`t like mac valves on airbrushes and have them on the quick release valve instead. Having said that I got a Creos ps-270 (0.2) because My H&S 0.2 is very fussy with some acrylics I use (railway modelling) and often need the help with flow improvers etc. The 270 ,however is a different beast and is much less forgiving and capable of very fine lines indeed . I liked it so much I added a ps-266 (0.5) and is a very capable and precise airbrush, I swop the back end of it to my Iwata Revolution CR3 so I can use the needle limiter.... You will notice that the nozzle threads on the Revolution and the Creos come with thread sealant applied (sticky to the touch) as they all leak air when it comes off. Beeswax or Sagud sealant will sort it.
No doubt they are both good airbrushes Richie. But I wouldn't buy either of them. 1. Prices. These days you do not have to spend that sort of money on a good airbrush. I recently bought my 4th airbrush. A Gaalheri GHAD-39 model, which is supposed to be their entry model. But I have found it so much better than a basic model. It comes with 2 nozzles / needles, a 0.35 & 0.5. It also comes with 2 size of paint cups. That airbrush cost me less than £40, and so far I have found it to perform just as good as these more expensive models. In fact, this model is on sale on offer on their web site today for less than $35. That's a bargain. 2. I don't like fixed paint cup airbrushes. I prefer the screw on paint cups. That way, you can swap out to bigger or smaller cups. Plus I think a removable paint cup makes it easier to clean the airbrush. 3. I also don't like these tiny screw on nozzles. They are a pain in the butt to remove and clean. Plus its very easy to ruin the threads when screwing them back on. I prefer the other type of needle. The airbrush I just bought has a fluted needle. In that it has some equal spaced grooves around the outside back of the needle. This means that the airflow is evenly directed equally around the needle. Which should make for better spraying. 4. Cost of spare parts. No doubt both of those airbrushes have expensive spare parts.
Bonus comment: A few months ago, I bought a cheap Chinese airbrush from Amazon. It cost me less than £12 lol. OK, it won't be good for detail work. But for general spraying of primers etc. It works.
The problem with the Chinese airbrushes is that they don’t seem to last longterm. Where the Japanese and German products will last many years with proper maintenance and care. Also my issue with Gaalheri is that their prices are too high. With some searching you can find comparable airbrushes from same factory under a different brand name for a lower cost. Hence why I refused to do any further reviews or videos for them. The trigger airbrush everyone is promoting on RUclips now is $65 ish. I found almost the same airbrush and exact design from same factory under a different brand for $33 on Amazon. Whatever Gaalerhi I have doesn’t feel that great a year on. Also it is hard to clean as there is so much paint being held below the color cup. Finally, the air is on or off. There is no change of air with the pressure of the trigger, unlike these other ones. Procon and Iwata parts are cheap. $13 for a needle and $25 for a Nozzle.
@@RWHobbiesit’s actually Hokushin Seiki, and the parts aren’t interchangeable with the Revolution. They’ll screw in, but the tapers and nozzle profiles are different. The 270 nozzle is the same part as a .2 High Line or High Perf Iwata though.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
My recommended airbrush -
bit.ly/3C8TG4R
So glad to find your channel. Thanks for your direct, honest, unbiased, unpaid-for reviews and prodcut updates; it is helpful.
I have used the Iwata HP-CS for a couple years now and love the performance, quality and availibility of parts and accessories. Works great with a lot of different paints and thinners, however I generally use Tamiya acrylics with Createx 4013 reducer and the usage, cleaning, and outcome is consistently excellent. Have not tried the new Createx 4021 reducer yet.
100% agree on having a separate airbrushes, one for acyrilics and one for enamels.
Appreciate the kind words. Have a great weekend.
I really commend your principled approach to looking at products
Thanks! Have a great weekend.
I personally have the PS-289 and PS-290 love both of them. I also have the Sparmax SP-35 and love that as well for smaller details due to smaller cup
I am a big fan of the Creos and Timiya air brushes, well made and great value for the money.
Tamiya airbrushes are made by Sparmax.
@RWHobbies interesting I once busted the needle and nozzle and iwata parts fit right on the one Tamiya I have
@@RWHobbies Tamiya has ones that they say are made by Sparmax (SX), their other airbrushes (HG) look like Iwata/Mr Hobby airbrushes. Not sure but looking at the different brushes the Tamiya HG brushes have very similar screw-on paint cups, trigger grip handle, integrated paint cups to various Mr Hobby and Iwata brushes (mostly the revolution range).
Can't say for sure since there is little info on the Tamiya brushes online
Great video Rich...I am tempted by that Procon Boy. Quite rightly it is highly subjective as you note...and people tend to reserve airbrushes for certain jobs. For me it is a Fengda 186 for Priming and base-coating. I use this because it is cheap, robust and easy to clean. Control is good. I then use an HS Infinity CR Plus 0.2 for detail work and any metal (Vallejo Metal Color only). Sometimes my Sparmax does both.
ProconBoy is usually $100-110. I think it is $77 on a Halloween sale. At that price it is a good deal. Hence why I purchased a new one. Those Fengda’s are also great airbrushes for the price. I need to start using mine for primer and not running it through the higher end airbrushes, just like you do.
@RWHobbies Yeah the Fengdas are great for Priming and if you make a stupid mistake like I did (loading the cup then taking a phone call) it's not the end of the world. Over this side of the pond the ProCon Platinum seems to be anywhere between £100-130.
Hi Richie - thanks for sharing helpful.
You are welcome, have a great weekend
@ cheers you also.
I’m in the US. Where can you get new needles for the procon boy platinum?
0.3mm?
bit.ly/40uuNLf
I know you've already put a lot of time and effort into the comparison Rich, but I'd be interested to compare the two with thicker water-based acrylics - especially a primer such as Stynylrez, and then something like an AK 3rd Gen paint. I've picked up a Procon Boy 289 for just over £100 and have started using it - too early for definitive feedback but it's doing a good job so far.
Hey Phil, I don’t use acrylic paints or can recommend Stynlrez when there are better products out there. Mr Surfacer 1500 is an awesome primer and been my go-to for quite some time. Stynlrez/ UMP primer gets too thick once air gets into the tube and it gets slightly older.
@@RWHobbies I agree, Mr Surfacer 1500 with Mr Color Levelling Thinner is 100% the best, but because of the smell I've gone 100% acrylic. Once I've done a bit more work with the Procon Boy I'll give you some feedback, then at least you have that info to hand.
@@RWHobbies I'm delighted with the Procon Boy Ritchie - thanks so much for the recommendation. I'm using UMP's Ultimate Primer straight from the bottle and the results are excellent.
Thank you for the comparison of these airbrushes i do not own a Iwata but do own the 770 and ps 270 of procon range, iam wondering if the needles and head unit are interchangeable. on the 289 and the hp-c ? Thanks agian keep on modeling.
I just checked for you. Head unit different. With Procon you can remove part which holds nozzle. Iwata it is fixed. Both needles appear to be exactly the same and confirmed that both fit in either airbrush.
@RWHobbies Thank you RW, That's good news I will purchase a couple of back needles . Thanks again.
Would have been useful to have a comparison to Gaahleri airbrushes, as I know you have had samples to review, regardless nice review, thank you. I managed to break a Fengda 3mm 180 nozzle recently when cleaning, 2mm still ok, but very much an ahhhh crap moment. Looking around to get a replacement nozzle I found that much harder to do than I had thought would be the case, so I bought the new nozzle design 183 Fengda, to see what its like.
I deliberately left them off. As I said at the beginning of the video if you want Chinese get the Fengda. Zero point paying for a Gaalheri when you get the Procon for $77 right now. The Japanese made airbrushes are just at another level to the Chinese. Better made, better feeling and will last many years with proper care and maintenance.
@ in my part of the world, excluding a lucky chance moment (not had or seen one, so far), Procon airbrushes, entry level, are all over £120 plus, and not common, except via online sellers, though I must concede thats more than likely not the case in other parts of the UK, and more a regional issue for me. I am no airbrush expert, still relatively new to them, so value as wide a set of opinions as I can find, and it would have been useful to have that comparison. Anyway thank you for your video.
@@DR-lc9qg £84 shipped to UK. From the vendor on the link I provided.
Like you I don`t like mac valves on airbrushes and have them on the quick release valve instead. Having said that I got a Creos ps-270 (0.2) because My H&S 0.2 is very fussy with some acrylics I use (railway modelling) and often need the help with flow improvers etc. The 270 ,however is a different beast and is much less forgiving and capable of very fine lines indeed . I liked it so much I added a ps-266 (0.5) and is a very capable and precise airbrush, I swop the back end of it to my Iwata Revolution CR3 so I can use the needle limiter.... You will notice that the nozzle threads on the Revolution and the Creos come with thread sealant applied (sticky to the touch) as they all leak air when it comes off. Beeswax or Sagud sealant will sort it.
Same experience with H&S as you. It was a struggle. Moved to Procon and just hassle free spray sessions every time I used it.
No doubt they are both good airbrushes Richie. But I wouldn't buy either of them. 1. Prices. These days you do not have to spend that sort of money on a good airbrush. I recently bought my 4th airbrush. A Gaalheri GHAD-39 model, which is supposed to be their entry model. But I have found it so much better than a basic model. It comes with 2 nozzles / needles, a 0.35 & 0.5. It also comes with 2 size of paint cups. That airbrush cost me less than £40, and so far I have found it to perform just as good as these more expensive models. In fact, this model is on sale on offer on their web site today for less than $35. That's a bargain. 2. I don't like fixed paint cup airbrushes. I prefer the screw on paint cups. That way, you can swap out to bigger or smaller cups. Plus I think a removable paint cup makes it easier to clean the airbrush. 3. I also don't like these tiny screw on nozzles. They are a pain in the butt to remove and clean. Plus its very easy to ruin the threads when screwing them back on. I prefer the other type of needle. The airbrush I just bought has a fluted needle. In that it has some equal spaced grooves around the outside back of the needle. This means that the airflow is evenly directed equally around the needle. Which should make for better spraying. 4. Cost of spare parts. No doubt both of those airbrushes have expensive spare parts.
Bonus comment: A few months ago, I bought a cheap Chinese airbrush from Amazon. It cost me less than £12 lol. OK, it won't be good for detail work. But for general spraying of primers etc. It works.
The problem with the Chinese airbrushes is that they don’t seem to last longterm. Where the Japanese and German products will last many years with proper maintenance and care. Also my issue with Gaalheri is that their prices are too high. With some searching you can find comparable airbrushes from same factory under a different brand name for a lower cost. Hence why I refused to do any further reviews or videos for them. The trigger airbrush everyone is promoting on RUclips now is $65 ish. I found almost the same airbrush and exact design from same factory under a different brand for $33 on Amazon.
Whatever Gaalerhi I have doesn’t feel that great a year on. Also it is hard to clean as there is so much paint being held below the color cup. Finally, the air is on or off. There is no change of air with the pressure of the trigger, unlike these other ones. Procon and Iwata parts are cheap. $13 for a needle and $25 for a Nozzle.
@@RWHobbies Well, the good thing is that it doesn't cost that much to get spare needles and nozzles etc. A replacement needle & nozzle is $10.
I like the you went about it. People will say a lot when it comes to the Almighty dollar. Nice honest opinion.
Thanks for the kind comment. Have a great weekend.
Not the same airbrush but built by the same people.
Did you watch the video? Lol. I talked about this half way through. 10:16
@@RWHobbiesit’s actually Hokushin Seiki, and the parts aren’t interchangeable with the Revolution. They’ll screw in, but the tapers and nozzle profiles are different. The 270 nozzle is the same part as a .2 High Line or High Perf Iwata though.
And both made in china!🤣
Jman
Incorrect. RichPen factory in Tokyo.
Idiot