Also, in regards to a jet engine. The blades actually lengthen the longer they are run due to high heat and centrifugal forces which is also part of the reason for the abradable shroud
@@jaymeagher1510 the sr71 had gaps in the fuel tank and used to leak when it was at ambient temperature too. Only once it went supersonic, the friction on the fuselage would heat it up enough that it would expand and close all the gaps. Very extreme aircraft however. The civil aviation jet engines I work on aren't like that. They have tight tolerances throughout.
@@h34evr Amazing isn't it? There was a spec sheet for how many drips of fuel per minute was allowable. The body panels were the outer skin of the fuel tank! I get to have breakfast with a man that worked on that project. He say to labor and cost prohibited to keep them leak free! Thanks
@@jaymeagher1510 same with commercial aviation. Everything has a certain drop per minute leak rate that is allowable if the right parts aren't available to fix it or time is prohibitive Pretty cool that he got to work on them! Probably my fav aircraft. So many incredible stories came about because of that aircrafts incredible performance.
Its crazy that I just so happened to experience the same scenario where my engine failed, not due to excessive p2w however my p2w is excessive and I was ready to let it rock as is. Now I have no excuse if I decide to do so while knowing this is an option
@@ToprankImporters We're saying the same thing. This coating would complement a hard coat well. I think more people tend to under estimate the bore/rings needs for lubrication. Especially with alcohol based fuels. Thanks
I've used them however I don't have a conclusive outcome. I know in top fuel it's a must, in milder engines I suppose letting the heat dissipate through the piston (cooled from the oil on the bottom" and through the chamber should be good for normalized temps. I'd say it depends on the engine! Thanks
I would have thought the abradable coating would just continue on its wear rate thru usage and how many kilometres can one expect with average usage. Gd vid
Is this a good idea for used pistons? I removed mine and cleaned it with Chem-dip. Just not sure if I should do skirt coating for restoration of loss factory coating or just WPC treat it instead. I’ve never seen a new k24 factory piston before so I don’t if from the factory they add a coating to make the skirt perfectly smooth over the horizontal lines from the machining.
love your videos. just wondering, what would you say is a reliable hp number for a regularly driven car that you want to last a while? 100hp per cylinder?
That depends on the engine platform and it's original power level. Generally OEM turbocharged engines have a higher ceiling than NA but some really good NA engines like the F20C or Coyote deal well with over 100hp per cylinder in stock form. Also you have to define "regularly driven", some people are down right destructive and others are just doing a couple rips here and there. Thanks
Once it's stabile the coating should stay intact for a long time. Ford was using a similar process on the 4.6 2V in the early 90's and it was always present when I broke those engines down. Thanks
Depends on the engine build that you're gong for. The MotoIQ channel has a good video on WPC treatment. He briefly goes over coating the skirts, or WPC treating them.
The same benefit of changing the surface finish with WPC is had with an abradable coating. The main difference is that abradable coating changes the dimension of the part but a WPC coating does not.
@@realstreetperformancejay along this same question, i was looking at WPC. I am doing a stroker kit on Hemi engine. My assumption was the additional piston rock with the stroker kit would be more beneficial with the abradeable coating being that it should hold the piston more square in the bore?
Not sure if you ever covered this before but what is your procedure for lubricating pistons when installing? Some say dry install and some put a lot of oil. Just curious what your opinion is.
Jay Lubricates the Piston Skirts and Cylinder walls with a 30W non detergent motor oil during install. Not too much because anything extra is just going to start dripping down the bore, maybe even into places where it shouldn't.
coatings on pistons might come off from e85 use if not done properly,they will come off and clog the oil pickup tube and ultimately destroy your engine,im surprised jay didnt mention such risks.
![Are Piston Coatings Worth Having AND Can Coatings Save Your Engine? [TECH TALK]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1MZZrCWqWm4/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for watching everyone! Here is Jay's recommended coating company we mentioned in the video: www.line2linecoatings.com/
Line2Line was just featured in a Steve Morris Engines video, looks like it will see a lot more race builder applications.
I thought we were talking about adorable coatings for a second....
Haha! 😂
That's what I thought it was at first glance too.
Yep, I had to read it again
Laying down the amazing schooling as always. Thanks Jay.
My pleasure!
- Jay
Love the informative content coming from real street and Jay himself
We are happy you love it. Thank you!
- Jay
Also, in regards to a jet engine. The blades actually lengthen the longer they are run due to high heat and centrifugal forces which is also part of the reason for the abradable shroud
When I read that the SR71 engine grows 6 inches in length at temp I was blown away.... tolerances, tolerances... Wild stuff! Thanks
@@jaymeagher1510 the sr71 had gaps in the fuel tank and used to leak when it was at ambient temperature too. Only once it went supersonic, the friction on the fuselage would heat it up enough that it would expand and close all the gaps. Very extreme aircraft however.
The civil aviation jet engines I work on aren't like that. They have tight tolerances throughout.
@@h34evr Amazing isn't it? There was a spec sheet for how many drips of fuel per minute was allowable. The body panels were the outer skin of the fuel tank! I get to have breakfast with a man that worked on that project. He say to labor and cost prohibited to keep them leak free! Thanks
@@jaymeagher1510 same with commercial aviation. Everything has a certain drop per minute leak rate that is allowable if the right parts aren't available to fix it or time is prohibitive
Pretty cool that he got to work on them! Probably my fav aircraft. So many incredible stories came about because of that aircrafts incredible performance.
@@h34evr That's great that you have work you enjoy!
Thank you❤
Now all my insecurities about that topic are eliminated.
I'm gonna go for it on my new engine build!
the explanation is easy to understand sir about the coating on the piston
This channel is very cool. So informative. I'm very thankful.
Our pleasure!
very cool information, it is great to see some actual components! I was on the fence for my next set of pistons but you may have made up my mind.
Short and sweet 👍
Learned a lot 😊
Love it
Thanks, Justin!
Its crazy that I just so happened to experience the same scenario where my engine failed, not due to excessive p2w however my p2w is excessive and I was ready to let it rock as is. Now I have no excuse if I decide to do so while knowing this is an option
I also did some hard anodizing on a set of pistons, which worked out well.
That's more for rejecting heat from the part. Thanks
@@jaymeagher1510 "Hard Anodizing is generally used for applications that need a corrosion, abrasion, and wear resistant coating."
@@ToprankImporters We're saying the same thing. This coating would complement a hard coat well. I think more people tend to under estimate the bore/rings needs for lubrication. Especially with alcohol based fuels. Thanks
Can I coat my tires with this so they last longer
Perfect for those diesel motors that are a little oversized on the bore.
Good afternoon teacher Jay.
Hello there!
Howdy
Jay, have you guys done anything with hard anodized pistons? I'm curious on the subject.
I've used them however I don't have a conclusive outcome. I know in top fuel it's a must, in milder engines I suppose letting the heat dissipate through the piston (cooled from the oil on the bottom" and through the chamber should be good for normalized temps. I'd say it depends on the engine! Thanks
Cool content, very interesting! What does a typical run-in period look like? And how long is the coating expect to last in a street run engine?
Once break in is completed the coating should stay on the part indefinitely. The coating only comes off if it comes into contact with something else.
@@realstreetperformance cool, thanks for taking the time to answer
I would have thought the abradable coating would just continue on its wear rate thru usage and how many kilometres can one expect with average usage. Gd vid
All depends on the setup. You can see great results if done correctly.
Jay can you cover WPC treatment?
Sure, what parts would you like to see before and after on? Thanks
Is this a good idea for used pistons? I removed mine and cleaned it with Chem-dip. Just not sure if I should do skirt coating for restoration of loss factory coating or just WPC treat it instead. I’ve never seen a new k24 factory piston before so I don’t if from the factory they add a coating to make the skirt perfectly smooth over the horizontal lines from the machining.
Will this work on outboard engines ,thanks for any information.
I’m wondering why my tomei pistons didn’t come with coating?
Can you use this coating on Alusil?
love your videos. just wondering, what would you say is a reliable hp number for a regularly driven car that you want to last a while? 100hp per cylinder?
That depends on the engine platform and it's original power level. Generally OEM turbocharged engines have a higher ceiling than NA but some really good NA engines like the F20C or Coyote deal well with over 100hp per cylinder in stock form. Also you have to define "regularly driven", some people are down right destructive and others are just doing a couple rips here and there. Thanks
Is this the same or different to molybdenum coating? I've just had my piston skirts and cam bearing tunnels molybdenum coated.
Is this coating something that can be added later, like the old coating removed and this coating put on?
Yes
How long would this last if I was to recoat a piston?
Once it's stabile the coating should stay intact for a long time. Ford was using a similar process on the 4.6 2V in the early 90's and it was always present when I broke those engines down. Thanks
What about wpc treating the piston skirts and cylinder wall wouldn't that be more effective?
Depends on the engine build that you're gong for. The MotoIQ channel has a good video on WPC treatment. He briefly goes over coating the skirts, or WPC treating them.
The same benefit of changing the surface finish with WPC is had with an abradable coating. The main difference is that abradable coating changes the dimension of the part but a WPC coating does not.
@@realstreetperformancejay along this same question, i was looking at WPC. I am doing a stroker kit on Hemi engine. My assumption was the additional piston rock with the stroker kit would be more beneficial with the abradeable coating being that it should hold the piston more square in the bore?
Not sure if you ever covered this before but what is your procedure for lubricating pistons when installing? Some say dry install and some put a lot of oil. Just curious what your opinion is.
Jay Lubricates the Piston Skirts and Cylinder walls with a 30W non detergent motor oil during install. Not too much because anything extra is just going to start dripping down the bore, maybe even into places where it shouldn't.
Jay can you build me a turbo bike? Love the videos!!
i talked to him he said no
@@supernice_auto hahaha
coatings on pistons might come off from e85 use if not done properly,they will come off and clog the oil pickup tube and ultimately destroy your engine,im surprised jay didnt mention such risks.
I've seen that with other coatings but have not experienced delamination with this coating. -Jay