I have the headliner at home. Saving it for after the car comes out of body work and paint because the windshields will need resealing and it will need to come out anyway.
rh front tire is on the wrong side directional should be facing the other way ! Flywheel should be X bolted with torque sittings = then run out checked with a dial indicator ! - you seem a bit ROUGH as a mechanic ! for high performance .
I’m no mechanic 😅 this is just a hobby of mine. You are the first one to spot the tire direction! No one has ever mentioned that I didn’t notice it till now! Thank you very much for your helpful comment! 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
תתחדש אחי! אחלה אקסדי! לגבי קאץ' קן או AOS. אז יש יתרונות לAOS מחברת IAG. זה טופ של הטופ אבל יקר כן. אם אתה הולך על קאץ' קן, אז רק קאץ' קן שיש בו אלמנט מסנןן היטב ואוסף את השמן. (דוגמה כמו הקאץ' קן של של חברת RYCO)
מה שזה לא יהיה (מיכל איסוף או מפריד אוויר/שמן) זה חייב להחזיר את האדים ליניקה אחרת הכל נכנס לתוך התא נוסעים. העניין הוא שהבנתי שאדי השמן יכולים להזיק למצערת החשמלית… אתה מכיר משהו בנושא?
@@TheGCJourney במקור צינור pcv חוזר ליניקה - רק ללא סינון ואז זה מלכלך לך את היניקה כולל חיישן מאפ, מצערת ועוד. ברגע שיש לך קאץ' קן עם מסנן, מסנן מבדיל בין אוויר נקי לאדי שמן. וכך ליניקה חוזר אוויר נקי ללא שמן.
Hey man, I have a question after you replaced your clutch did you make any adjustments at the clutch pedal ? for a better clutch release. I have kinda the same issue with my clutch I have an exedy stage 1 heavy duty street with an organic fly wheel but someone just told me about the clutch pedal!!
I honestly love the current feel. I’m not sure if the flywheel I just removed was lightweight or not but the current Exedy one feels night and day better!
Hi There! I am planning to replace my 1996 gc8 sti jdm with these parts but the parts you linked are for 2004 subaru (assuming GD series), will it fit on the gc8?
@@KrispyRoad Hi! I got the kit that suits an 00-2003 STI 6 speed gearbox (GDB) so I think you will need something else if you’re still running a 5 speed gearbox. What gearbox are you using?
a million ways to skin every cat, but be careful driving fasteners in with an impact. it seems it came out fine, but imagine blowing out one of the female threads on the crank doing this job, what would you do? for disassembly its fine 99 percent of the time, for assembly its rarely the right tool sinking stuff. someone else mentioned tightening stuff down from each/all sides as evenly as possible, or a cross pattern to keep it simple. also when you split an engine on a street car like this its always a great idea to replace the rear main seal and the inspection plate, when they leak and you have to do all this again its annoying as heck. great job though and thank you for sharing, please dont take my words as a negative, i saw you commented you are not a professional mechanic, so i am just offering tips as one. and prop or driveshaft you are right who cares, as long as everyone understands each other its all good, as i find history interesting, i will let you know the manufacturers that started with boats continued into road vehicles using the term prop shaft or propeller shaft, road manufacturers that started there just referred to it as a driveshaft 😊 thank you again for sharing, cool old subie ✌️
also two solutions to blowing out a fastener on the crank: use a slightly larger tap and bolt and pray it works, or weld it all in, center tap and drill it out and tap to oem size. ive done both, and would rather not have. in a high torque area like this i dont think any nutzert or rivetnut or anything like that would be acceptable. live and learn they say..
A roof lining would make this so much nicer as a daily aswell, looking forward to more videos
I have the headliner at home. Saving it for after the car comes out of body work and paint because the windshields will need resealing and it will need to come out anyway.
Enjoy your new clutch! Great choice
Thanks buddy 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Aos for the win…
Enjoy your new clutch bro😎
Thank you ma man! ❤️
i love how the ewg pipe looks beneath the car
It makes nice noises too 😎
Love this video
I appreciate the support my friend! 🙏🏼
Its a Drivey Wivey spinny thingy
@@mrmadunit3923 accurate description!
Next steps to make it more of a daily car:
Get an interior.
Get some tires that don't sound like your driving a truck (or a second set of wheels)
I’m not sure if the noise is coming from the tires only, or if a lot of the noise is coming from the rear LSD.
But that’s a pretty good idea!
HEADLINING !
@@ronnieboucherthecrystalcraftsm
The headliner is sitting safe at home and will be back in the car once the windshields are resealed
ooh, a new clutch! I love doing mechanical work.
I’m sure you’re very good at it too! ❤️
rh front tire is on the wrong side directional should be facing the other way ! Flywheel should be X bolted with torque sittings = then run out checked with a dial indicator ! - you seem a bit ROUGH as a mechanic ! for high performance .
I’m no mechanic 😅 this is just a hobby of mine.
You are the first one to spot the tire direction! No one has ever mentioned that I didn’t notice it till now! Thank you very much for your helpful comment! 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
תתחדש אחי! אחלה אקסדי! לגבי קאץ' קן או AOS. אז יש יתרונות לAOS מחברת IAG. זה טופ של הטופ אבל יקר כן. אם אתה הולך על קאץ' קן, אז רק קאץ' קן שיש בו אלמנט מסנןן היטב ואוסף את השמן. (דוגמה כמו הקאץ' קן של של חברת RYCO)
מה שזה לא יהיה (מיכל איסוף או מפריד אוויר/שמן) זה חייב להחזיר את האדים ליניקה אחרת הכל נכנס לתוך התא נוסעים.
העניין הוא שהבנתי שאדי השמן יכולים להזיק למצערת החשמלית… אתה מכיר משהו בנושא?
@@TheGCJourney
במקור צינור pcv חוזר ליניקה - רק ללא סינון ואז זה מלכלך לך את היניקה כולל חיישן מאפ, מצערת ועוד. ברגע שיש לך קאץ' קן עם מסנן, מסנן מבדיל בין אוויר נקי לאדי שמן. וכך ליניקה חוזר אוויר נקי ללא שמן.
@@LegacyDriver
חלום שלי 😍😍😍
Hey man, I have a question after you replaced your clutch did you make any adjustments at the clutch pedal ? for a better clutch release. I have kinda the same issue with my clutch I have an exedy stage 1 heavy duty street with an organic fly wheel but someone just told me about the clutch pedal!!
Yes, the pedal did need some adjusting
I liked the length of the episode, keep like that mate 🔥
😘😘😘
How do you like the lightweight flywheel for dailying?
I honestly love the current feel. I’m not sure if the flywheel I just removed was lightweight or not but the current Exedy one feels night and day better!
should see 8,200 rpm on that one - looks great.
Hi There! I am planning to replace my 1996 gc8 sti jdm with these parts but the parts you linked are for 2004 subaru (assuming GD series), will it fit on the gc8?
@@KrispyRoad
Hi! I got the kit that suits an 00-2003 STI 6 speed gearbox (GDB) so I think you will need something else if you’re still running a 5 speed gearbox.
What gearbox are you using?
@@TheGCJourney ah yes im still with the OEM 5 sp
@@KrispyRoad
Then I believe you’ll need a different part number. Also depending on what power you’re aiming for.
Hi there what radiator do you have in there?
It came with the car when I bought it.
I believe it is a KOYORAD for USDM models if I’m not mistaken.
@@TheGCJourney thanks u didn’t know if it was from a Forster or Impreza
@@sebastienjackie
I have no idea. Sorry 😅
Sand it !
*send 😜😜😜
a million ways to skin every cat, but be careful driving fasteners in with an impact. it seems it came out fine, but imagine blowing out one of the female threads on the crank doing this job, what would you do? for disassembly its fine 99 percent of the time, for assembly its rarely the right tool sinking stuff. someone else mentioned tightening stuff down from each/all sides as evenly as possible, or a cross pattern to keep it simple. also when you split an engine on a street car like this its always a great idea to replace the rear main seal and the inspection plate, when they leak and you have to do all this again its annoying as heck. great job though and thank you for sharing, please dont take my words as a negative, i saw you commented you are not a professional mechanic, so i am just offering tips as one. and prop or driveshaft you are right who cares, as long as everyone understands each other its all good, as i find history interesting, i will let you know the manufacturers that started with boats continued into road vehicles using the term prop shaft or propeller shaft, road manufacturers that started there just referred to it as a driveshaft 😊 thank you again for sharing, cool old subie ✌️
also two solutions to blowing out a fastener on the crank: use a slightly larger tap and bolt and pray it works, or weld it all in, center tap and drill it out and tap to oem size. ive done both, and would rather not have. in a high torque area like this i dont think any nutzert or rivetnut or anything like that would be acceptable. live and learn they say..
Hey man, thank you for all the useful tips! I'm always open to learn from others with more experience than me. Cheers 😊