Sirowka Im guessing are you German by the way you don't like his comment as its not literal or technically accurate...the saying get you out of the woods means out of trouble....so yes your right but he wasn't meaning only the woods can ever be a survival situation.....of course.... On another note these two guys constantly eating the whole way through is video was really annoying so not only did I not subscribe I couldn't finish watching the video.....
Interesting to see how much you guys have learnt while making these videos. Mikkie B said he would avoid CPM 3V for survival as it would be hard to sharpen on river stones, in your later video about debunking survival concepts you discuss how that's a ridiculous concept as you won't find a flat river stone. This is my favourite channel on youtube at the moment.
Dutch Bushcraft Knives, I love your videos. I've been watching for a few weeks now and I've learned so much. I was into knives before I found your channel, but now I'm REALLY into knives. I'm looking to get the F1D as my first fixed blade, and I'm happy to say I made a fire last night using only feathersticks and a firesteel for the first time because of your guys' inspiration! Thanks again DBK! I'll keep watching. - Mike from New Mexico.
you guys are great! this is the 3rd video or so i've watched of you guys havin a blast together in the woods talkin about knives knowledgeably, with intelligent commentary on steel performance and handle geometries. you guys do deserve more subscribers!
A good challenge option for you guys is to take a carbon steel blade, force a patina on it and see how far you can go with it without having to look after it beyond basic sharpening that you might have to do with any knife in a survival situation. I would be curious to see how far it would go.
A good patina for carbon steel can be made by immersing the blade in boiling white vinegar. Gets darker the longer you do it, but just enough to remove the shine to a medium grey will provide good rust protection...
One of the many defining characteristics of an ideal survival knife is its thicker than average (maybe 1/4 of an inch), full tang with handles than can be removed if they crack, and can take abuse and unplanned tasks that border on emergency. A machete does not qualify as its really only good for chopping bamboo and thin trees. It won't do minor tasks well. Folders won't handle as much abuse before breaking so even a big heavy folder usually won't qualify. An ideal bushcraft knife can do fine work, particularly wood carving. It does not need to be as big, can be full length tang but not necessarily an exposed tang, and doesn't need to be able to handle outright abuse. They could be folders if they were sturdy. There's so many fixed knives that will fit both jobs I don't know if we need to overanalyze the subject. If its a better chopper than a carver, that would be one indicator.
Reading the comments below always cracks me up. Anyway, why do Americans love Carbon steel over Stainless Steel? Well, I think I have an answer. It has to do with a couple of things, the first being tradition. Our entire creation, settlement, founding, frontier, expansion, wars, hunting, outdoors experience has been with carbon steel. Literally EVERYTHING was made of carbon steel. People knew how to use it, sharpen it, and take care of it even in the most severe and harsh conditions. It is an ingrained part of our soul, like a Green River trade knife, a KaBar USMC fighting knife or an Ontario kitchen knife. It's tradition. Secondly, stainless steel for knives is a relatively recent phenomenon. It started showing up everywhere in the last 80 odd years or so, and in huge amounts in the last 50 years or so (my time frame may be a bit off, but I am ball parking it). Where we in America always saw ANY stainless steel was in the kitchen. Pots, pans, steak and butcher knives etc., AND they were universally CHEAP imports and generally crappy. After WW2 Japan and Germany both made millions of tons of cheap stainless knives which flooded the market in the US. Germany made better knives than Japan at that time. Think Chinese stainless steel of today. Would you own one of those knives for serious work? Heck no. Sure there are always exceptions to the rule, but on the whole they are cheap and disposable. Stainless was seen as a convenience in certain applications like again the kitchen or maybe fillet knives. But for serious work, carbon steel was still the way to go. Most of these cheap knives were made of two steels, 420J ("surgical steel") and 440A and C and one thing that seemed to be very common was bad heat treats, they were almost always tempered extremely hard and tended to snap in half at the worst possible time. Broken tips and blades were simply what you could expect from a stainless knife at this time. Needless to say they were avoided like the plague. Carbon was still the way to go. And thirdly, today, we FINALLY have the modern stainless steels, steels so good they approach or even in some cases surpass the legendary capabilities of our beloved carbon steels. These steels are NEW to the scene, something that has been available only recently to most people. I think it will just take time for the idea that stainless steel is actually a good steel, but ONLY if you get it from a very experienced and reputable company who knows what they are doing. Today even some makers swear by 440c and only use it and it does well for them, like Entrek. I for one will try just about any steel I can get my hands on and my current favorites are CPM 3v and O-1. Some experts still rely on a good carbon steel because they can use it as a last ditch fire starter in the flint and steel tradition, you can't do that with stainless steel (Dave Canterbury for example is a huge proponent of that idea). To this day I will ALWAYS without question avoid ANY stainless steel knife with a blade longer than say 8 or so inches, UNLESS it is Swedish steel or equivalent, a good powdered steel, because stainless steel is imply not suitable for longer blade applications like machetes and swords because it is still too brittle (almost without exception). The perfect example of this is something that happened to me YESTERDAY. I was at my fathers home helping him clear some fallen limbs from a storm a few weeks ago and I happened to have a blade for testing. It WAS a Fox Knives Parang XL made of 440C stainless steel. Thin edge geometry (tall hollow grind). I have used it before in limited brush clearing etc. I was trimming some 1/3" diameter limbs off the pine tree and heard a crack. I looked down and a full inch long by 1/2' deep CHUNK of the blade broke off and was stuck in the base of the branch, the SMALL branch. It was a green tree. NO good knife with good steel should EVER fail to cut a green tree. Needless to say, this kind of thing is what we are used to in America and why we still primarily trust carbon steel. I finished the tree off with my trusty Terävä Skrama bush knife from Varusteleka. Yup, you guessed it carbon steel. It easily destroyed the rest of the limb with no issues. It's all about heat treat, quality materials, knowledge and quality craftsmanship. Unfortunately when it comes to stainless steel in America, until recently, we just did not see any. We know we can almost always trust carbon steel so we stick with it. I think that will change as more people experience the newer better stainless steels coming into use but it will take some time. You guys are young so you get the benefit of our experience and get to use all the newest coolest steels, you are lucky, but that is called progress right? Can you imagine what your kids and grand kids will be using? And how they will look at you when you tell them about that ancient stuff stainless steel no one uses anymore? It was an awesome discussion and I look forward to more from the best, funniest channel on RUclips!
Had to leave a comment after reading that novel. Havent tried 01 yet but I'm just getting into the scene. I'm 36 and have been mostly into EDC folding knives. But finally got a mora robust and bk9. What should I buy now?
@@Nohkral Actually, with the Mora and BK you re pretty much set for anything the woods can throw at you bushcraft wise. I would recommend you look into a good quality folding saw like a Silky, and a good quality mid-size axe. With those tools, you will cover every aspect of bushcraft and survival that is out there with the exception of very specific applications like cup and bowl making which would almost always require a spoon knife. Good luck and have fun!
They are rare these days but one of the best all purpose knives you can get your hands on is the old version of Mora 711, the one with the rubber grip and carbon steel. Its nothing fancy but its a proper work horse. I recently found a local store here in sweden that sell a rebranded version (by made by Frosts in Mora all the same) and I could hardly believe it so I bought 3 of them for less than 4€ each.
Good video as always. One point that always seems neglected when "survival knives" are brought up is that the need to survive can happen at any moment. So it would need to be a knife that I have on me all the time. If only I could find a comfortable way to carry my s1 pro concealed away but comfortable/accessible. Of course if I have my pack it's going with me but if I have all my gear it really isn't surviving it's camping.
In the first case the knife you have with you will be your survival knife of course. But I think when a knife manufacturer says he's making a 'survival knife' it has to have certain characteristics. These are the knives you would buy to bring on a mountain hike or something where ending up in a survival situation is much more likely than in the streets. A kitchen knife can become a survival knife but it was never made to be a survival knife. This is kinda what we want to point out. You're completely right, we did forget to mention that the knife you have on you will be your survival knife if need be. Thanks a lot and happy weekend!
Hey DBK Bros, EXCELLENT ANALYSIS! It was informative and good to hear both your perspectives on this topic. I know this was 7 years ago, so your perspectives may have evolved/changed by now, but still a lot of valid points you brought up. For example, I don't have a Bark River Knife yet, but I was planning to buy a Bravo WITH a thumb ramp, but you made a great point about how it can limit thumb placement, so I think I'll get the ramp-less model now. I understand your logic about the importance of stainless in a survival situation, but I don't know if I fully agree, because toughness is also important in a survival situation, and many stainless blades are too hard, brittle and can chip/roll. Also, carbon steel blades are usually much easier to sharpen "on a rock" if you need to. It's a tough call, and you brought up a good point, so I need to consider this one. Like you said, it probably really matters WHERE you're trying to survive (e.g. the jungles of South East Asia vs. the forests of North America vs. the Desert). Now in 2024, perhaps CPM MAGNACUT has solved this dilemma because of the high stain resistance/edge retention AND reasonable toughness. Thanks for all the food for thought, but I also would like to eat some of those crunchy snacks too!
Great points! Im looking at a Bravo 2 in S35VN for a survival knife....maybe paired with something smaller in cpm154 that can be resharpened a little easier.
I like your description of the difference between bushcraft and survival. I've always thought of it this way: Survival means you're in a bad situation with limited resources. Bushcraft is being in the wild by choice and properly prepared. Therefore a survival knife has to do lots of things well, because it may be your only tool. Buchcrafting knives can be far more specialized, as you'll likely have multiple tools available for various tasks. Thanks for the great vid!
I really found this to be one of the most informative videos in this field you comments were insightful with factual examples and you have saved me from buying an A2 steel knife I was surprised the F1 was not one of your choices for a bushcraft knife, thank you.
in a survval situation you need a versatile knife I think a 6 inch full tang knife is a great in between knife it can do some good chopping and batoning and also do nice finer work like fire making and hunting
A fun style presentation once again guys and informative. Here in Alaska as a remote fly-out wilderness river outfitter and guide for whitewater rafting plus sport-fishing... I have to agree when busy working in my real wilderness settings from the standpoint of having knife take care of you vs. always baby-sitting the steel is key to performance. One of the prime reasons to also have stainless firearms here. Nasty weather, splashing whitewater or whitecaps in boats, freeze/thaw-freeze/thaw, snow and ice, on and on... all challenges to deal w/ in not-stainless or not-well-coated knives and guns.
Nice video! While watching I realized that I had already "watched" it, I had woken up in the middle of the night one time and it was playing on my phone 😂😂! Glad I can watch it now and actually make good sense of why you are talking about.
Good vid! To me, the ideal survival knife is a simple carbon steel such as 1095 in a flatground blade about 5" long, 4-5mm thick- basically a Lionsteel M5 but in 1095 at about 58HRC would be ideal. The reason being is that it's far easier and quicker to sharpen on make shift sharpeners such as forest /river stones, bits of cement, bricks etc and it can easily be stropped on your belt or pants. Sharpening a convex or scandi takes much longer, and a better and bigger abrasive, than a flat ground and requires much more metal to be removed which wastes energy you don't have. A flat ground can be sharpened on a stone smaller than half a matchbox. Also, in a survival situation I need a knife to be quick and easy to maintain a good edge. The rust potential is not even an issue as it's an emergency survival situation and thus if 1095 won't last you out of it then you're already dead. I don't even really like flat ground knives but I'd take this in a survival situation anytime, they are a jack of all trades and made sharp in minutes. The TBS knives are good, I have a Grizzly in 01 and I put it in he same size/weight category as the Bravo-1. The only issue with it is the bevel could be raised a bit (3/4mm to 1mm) to a sharper angle, no big deal. For bushcraft knives, whatever the individual finds the best is the best. My opinions on this category are similar to your own.
Dunno, Sleipner is "half stainless" and is easy to sharpen, i think is a good choice for survival so you don't need change into 1095, imho As a similar knife i can suggest Prepper one from Pohl Force or Hest4 from Dpxgear! take a look!
what an excellent channel, intelligent, humorous, informative, and this is the only one I know that treats us to a man in camo having a grande mal seizure in the closing moment!
Bushcraft- woods skills, survival-staying alive. My picks: best cheapo-bahco 2444- 3,5 EUR in the hardware store, mora companion, robust, 100 EUR-garberg, best surv./bushcraft f1- the basic model. Money to burn-S1 pro. Best big survival blade- a genuine kukri, works in all climates- Nepal goes rrom mountains to jungels. You just have to know how to use it and not have that cold steel thing;) Great vid as always.
Another great video guys! Just bought the fallkniven a1 pro to pair up with my f1 vg10 thanks to your advice! Awesome knife I absolutely love it! Keep up the good work!
Just further insight on 1095 is that it is popular in the United States and rust is less of an issue since it is dryer than Europe. That being said, I come from an area that is not dry and is raining as often as it is dry so I am right there with you guys on stainless steel.
Joseph F Hey joseph, The mora video was watched about 1.3 milion time sso we got a lot of new subscribers! We are very happy about it! I would love a sheath for my fallkniven! thanks a lot for your offer! Please contact me on dutchbushcraftknives@gmail.com I can't keep complete track of all the reactions on my comments as they don't show up a new ones. We get so many lately haha. ATB!
Just got my first LT wright Outback scandi grind. The most comfortable handle on any fixed blade ive seen. I think only DLT Trading has that model. But Other places have other models like the Genesis and they are amazing knives.
So I havent had the great fortune to try a few of the premium knives you guys hail, but I have a DBK knife on the way and I cant wait. That being said my recommended knives for bushcraft/survival/and inbetween would be in that order the Mora Garberg carbon w firesteel and sharpener (or really any carbon steel mora theyre all great), Tops Brother of bushcraft for survival, and great inbetween would be the Gerber Terracraft (love the handle geometry and steel, and spine... and everything else lol) I think a survival knife should be easy to sharpen. I should say Im not shy of sharpening knives tho I love premium steels for edc just havent found the right one that can take a beating, many are brittle.I cary either a swiss AK explorer, or the bradford Guardian 3 in m390. Love you guys. I also have a BK2 but its heavy.
Thanks for the thought-provoking knife talk! I'm not totally sure if corrosion resistance is really an issue in a survival situation,but I suppose it is if it actually dulls your blade... Otherwise it's just cosmetics and easy enough to fix later - if you survive that is. The other balance, I think, is the one between edge retention and ease of sharpening. You could pack a 3V and hope it takes you through the crisis without the need to re-sharpen. Or you could pack a carbon steel blade and hope that you'll manage to keep it sharp without too much trouble... I think I'd pack (at least) my Enzo-Elmax and my Terävä Skrama. Love your channel, keep it coming!
Cool, In Sunny South Africa its summer 33 Degrees Celsius. Winter is a few months away, thanks goodness. Keep up the good videos. Thank you so much for the reply. :-)
coatings help with the body of the blade, but your EDGE is unprotected; I had one of my favorite ESEEs develop rust in the cutting edge before I really noticed it, like that old song, rust never sleeps!
Julian 3 Is there anything you can do to protect the whole blade form rust? I want to buy one of the BK's but I live in the rainforest, the most humid place in the world. A bit of bad luck eh?
Bushfriend27´s Outdoordiary Thanks, I'll definitely keep that in mind. It seems slightly thinner than the BK2 and wanted something I know will be able to put up with hell. I'll check out the reviews before I can say it's not the same.
Would love to see a whole video of you guys camping or going out into the deep wilderness and using ur choice of blades and stuff and how you camp. Great video
the substantial difference is that real survival is not a planned situation, so you will probably have only your pocket knife with you, or maybe nothing... whereas bushcraft is planned and you can bring any knife with you.
in this case the knife you have with you is the survival knife. However, if you go into a situation where the probability of getting lost or something like that is much higher you could bring a 'survival knife' just in case. on some situations you can never prepare but most outdoor survival situations happen because people are not prepared. You could also use a survival knife to prevent a survival situation haha.
Have no interest in knives but love watching these videos! makes me laugh and i actually learn stuff, love the editing as well! been subscribed for about 3 months now and you guys still haven't dissapointed me
Hey guys great points! I agree that bushcraft doesnt only have to be primitive skills but it can be a fusion of modern techniques and gear with old world skills. To me its also just about passing the time outdoors, using natural materials, and developing skills to make oneself more comfortable whilst blending in with the natural world. It should, above all else be sustainable, people should learn how to have a low environmental footprint by being conservative with resources. I look forward to your review about the TBS Boar, as I have that very knife in N695 steel. I want to add, the thing a 4" bushcraft knife has over a large survival knife is that you are more likely to have it on you at all times, simply because its lighter. I always have a Mora on my hip because I dont even notice the weight so it just always gets carried. If you find yourself in a survival situation i bet you didnt plan it, so the best knife will be the one you have on you. Peace
thanks a lot! I agree on the environmental footprint. For me bushcraft is like it is for you, enjoying time in the forest. Sometimes it's making nettle cordage and a friction fire while the other time it is hammocking with some high end gas burners and a nice meal. My TBS boar is also in N695 and I really like the steel. I think the review will have to wait untill spring. We have so much to do. All the best!
thanks a lot! The Mora garberg is great. It could have been on this table. there is no reason that it's not. The garberg is a great care free bushcrafting and around the camp knife. The steel is pretty easy to sharpen and it keeps a decent edge as well. its not high end but overall a very decent steel.
I can't really find much about scandivex. Is it a convexgrind that starts where the normal scandibevel would start or is it a scandi with a convexed microbevel ?
i agree with you guys i never understand why so many like carbon steel for survival knives i have a mora carbon that i use to carve wood but i would never go out in the woods with it survival gear means being prepared for the worst
Daniel Rosado It's simple. Carbon steel is soft steel, very easy to sharp even in the field, quite simple to maintain, in a survival or bushcraft scenario, a string of leather (your belt maybe) can be used to strop the edge of the blade, with or without compound you can achieve a razor sharp in no time. And also, probably the most important value of the carbon steel, it's the property of the steel itself, with a piece of flint you can create a good spark for fire (if you are capable of) in the other hand inox don't rust, but you have to maintain the edge, and it's a bit harder in the field, because the hardness of the steel. Of course don't create any kind of spark over the flint.
Nico coin i know carbon steel is a good steet but i was agreeing with them when they said in a survival situation your knife is looking after you and you shouldn't be looking out for it, stainless wont rust it might dull faster but knowing it will be there for how ever long you surviving no matter the weather is is reassuring
to many people exaggerating whit the rust, in a survival situation you need to get ''out'' fast that's mean 1-3 days...a carbon blade knife even after a year without care it's still do his job, get a stone and in 5 min you are good to go(sry my bad engl)
When i was in Army, I would stay out for weeks at a time in Georgia. I believe that is a pretty humid area. I still have that old Kabar in it's original sheath. I can't ever remember putting any oil on it. I probably did wipe it down. It has patina, but zero rust. It still resides in it's leather sheath with no oil and has no rust as far as I can tell. It just seems like the whole rust thing is overblown. I have a knife I made that I use for scraping things and leave it wet sometimes with no sheath. It will get a couple spots after a while, but it still works fine after years. Same with a carbon scraper I use in the kitchen for iron pans.
Keep in mind that the native people of the Amazon use carbon steel machettes, knives and axes. And they work great. I see your point about stainles steels but i think you make it a bigger issue than it is. It also ofcourse depends on what carbon steel you use. You should try out 80crv2 steel. Try out the Varustelekas "Skrama knife" and the "Jääkäri puukko" also called "Jaeger knife". Its a "good bang for the buck" knife.
N690Co is a fantastic steel that I think is missing so far from your reviews; are you planning on testing it or have I missed a video or 2? Take it easy, Ben
I have an enzo trapper and a Steel Will Gekko 1530 in N690Co. very lovely steel. Very similar to vg-10. I like it a lot. I have an old video on the steel will gekko.
alright, you guys talked me into it, a good stainless is definitely the way to go.....I just traded in my SRK carbon steel for a new SRK San Mai III....thanks for opening my eyes!
when you do knife talks and present new knives, you should put the name of it or them in the notes below or on screen. it would be much better for researching. Love your vids so keep going!
Thanks for another informative vid! What do you think of serrated edge blades? I personally hate them but lots of reviewers swear by them. Any thoughts other blade shapes such as tanto or clip-points?
Say Heah M&M, I started gravitating towards a Survival Bushcraft Knife. A blade of around 5"+-6"+. I do have a couple. Like one of them my Modified B H Modde Attitude. Infact I just bought a Cold Steel Flak Jack in a Satin Finish and in the INFI Steel with Black G-10 Handle. It sort of reminds me of my S. O. G. Pillar Fix Blade, but a little larger and in the INFI Steel.,,.p
For me a survival knife and a bushcraft knife are the same. 1 is none 2 is one is something I do follow so basically a small pocket knife and a somewhat larger knife. Breaking a knife if you use it properly is hard to do but loosing a knife can happen any time. My pocket knife is a SAK model soldier. The one we did get in the Dutch Army long time ago. For the one I use as bushcraft/survival knife I look at toughness and also inside the handle. A lot of knives that are sold as full tang have a skeletonized full tang like Enzo. Enzo has still a lot of metal under the handle but some other brands are skeletonized to the max to reduce weight and they are not stronger than a stick tang. They can break inside the handle making it useless. I also don't care about stainless or carbon. If the knife feels good in your hand, use it. I'm perfectly comfortable with a 10 dollar Hultafors GK for any bushcraft/survival situation.
Grate channel along with big brown Learning a lot from all of you but how fast does 1095 actually rust if u have a kydex sheath I do have a fallkniven A1 but what I said about carbon being a bad choice for survival when so many other ppl recommend it as a top pick don't know if that just has to do with your climate there
You guys ever got your hands on a TOPS BOB knife? I love mine, I alternate between it and a Falkniven S1. It's a nice in between survival/bushcraft, which makes it(and the S1) the perfect backpacking blades. It's nice to be able to process some fire wood and maybe sit down and do light carving to pass the time with the same knife. Keep up the great work, love the videos!
I think it's a real user the price is right for the 154 cm steel. the 154 cm is a good mid range steel. It shouldn't be hard to sharpen 154cm with the proper tools. I think the knife is a pretty good deal.
I'd like to see you guys do more budget knives like condor or schrade. Most of them are 1075 or 1095, but some are great knives for the budget collector.
I am quite curious about what sharpening gear you would take on like a 1 to 2-week trip. Do you just go with a strop? or do you take your whole sharpening stone closet with you? or just one stone? I can't imagine you guys holding any knife without a mirror polished edge.
To be honest I can get around for 2 weeks quite well with just a well loaded strop. I do take my DC4 for any small chips. After the 2 weeks I do have to give the knife a good spa treatment as the dc4 leaves it's marks.
Could you please repeat what steels you said were good for survival? You spoke a bit too fast to hear properly. Also could you please mention a couple of knives with those steels that you would recommend for survival purposes? Thank you.
Hi guys great show I love your antics :) have you both ever tried the Prepared Mind 101 jx 3 knife made by LT Wright Knives, its a hell of a good knife made in all your favourite steels Elmax CPM 3, 01 tool steel etc... Love Introduction guy and Big hammer man :):) you two are off your heads :):)
I live on the south coast of USA. I lean toward carbon steel. people have used carbon steel cutlery for hundreds of years. I also love cooking in cast iron. a lot of people hate it because they say it rusts.
It's all about taking care of your cooking ware. My pan did rust once but I just scrubbed it off put some oil on it and it was good to go. a cast iron pot will outlive any other pan a 100 times if you take a bit of care.
Survival is getting out of the woods. Bushcraft is getting into the woods
good one! true as can be!
DutchBushcraft well said my friend
Sirowka
Im guessing are you German by the way you don't like his comment as its not literal or technically accurate...the saying get you out of the woods means out of trouble....so yes your right but he wasn't meaning only the woods can ever be a survival situation.....of course....
On another note these two guys constantly eating the whole way through is video was really annoying so not only did I not subscribe I couldn't finish watching the video.....
DutchBushcraft hhh good one
You are absolutely correct, I couldn't have said it better myself
"In the survival situation you don't want to look after your knife. The knife looks after you." - Survival Confucius
Interesting to see how much you guys have learnt while making these videos. Mikkie B said he would avoid CPM 3V for survival as it would be hard to sharpen on river stones, in your later video about debunking survival concepts you discuss how that's a ridiculous concept as you won't find a flat river stone. This is my favourite channel on youtube at the moment.
"In a survival situation you would never have DEEZ NUTS"
-big muscled hammer guy, 2016
Can't remember your name. Sorry
Dutch Bushcraft Knives, I love your videos. I've been watching for a few weeks now and I've learned so much. I was into knives before I found your channel, but now I'm REALLY into knives. I'm looking to get the F1D as my first fixed blade, and I'm happy to say I made a fire last night using only feathersticks and a firesteel for the first time because of your guys' inspiration!
Thanks again DBK! I'll keep watching.
- Mike from New Mexico.
you guys are great! this is the 3rd video or so i've watched of you guys havin a blast together in the woods talkin about knives knowledgeably, with intelligent commentary on steel performance and handle geometries. you guys do deserve more subscribers!
A good challenge option for you guys is to take a carbon steel blade, force a patina on it and see how far you can go with it without having to look after it beyond basic sharpening that you might have to do with any knife in a survival situation. I would be curious to see how far it would go.
A good patina for carbon steel can be made by immersing the blade in boiling white vinegar. Gets darker the longer you do it, but just enough to remove the shine to a medium grey will provide good rust protection...
One of the many defining characteristics of an ideal survival knife is its thicker than average (maybe 1/4 of an inch), full tang with handles than can be removed if they crack, and can take abuse and unplanned tasks that border on emergency. A machete does not qualify as its really only good for chopping bamboo and thin trees. It won't do minor tasks well. Folders won't handle as much abuse before breaking so even a big heavy folder usually won't qualify.
An ideal bushcraft knife can do fine work, particularly wood carving. It does not need to be as big, can be full length tang but not necessarily an exposed tang, and doesn't need to be able to handle outright abuse. They could be folders if they were sturdy.
There's so many fixed knives that will fit both jobs I don't know if we need to overanalyze the subject. If its a better chopper than a carver, that would be one indicator.
Reading the comments below always cracks me up. Anyway, why do Americans love Carbon steel over Stainless Steel? Well, I think I have an answer. It has to do with a couple of things, the first being tradition. Our entire creation, settlement, founding, frontier, expansion, wars, hunting, outdoors experience has been with carbon steel. Literally EVERYTHING was made of carbon steel. People knew how to use it, sharpen it, and take care of it even in the most severe and harsh conditions. It is an ingrained part of our soul, like a Green River trade knife, a KaBar USMC fighting knife or an Ontario kitchen knife. It's tradition. Secondly, stainless steel for knives is a relatively recent phenomenon. It started showing up everywhere in the last 80 odd years or so, and in huge amounts in the last 50 years or so (my time frame may be a bit off, but I am ball parking it). Where we in America always saw ANY stainless steel was in the kitchen. Pots, pans, steak and butcher knives etc., AND they were universally CHEAP imports and generally crappy. After WW2 Japan and Germany both made millions of tons of cheap stainless knives which flooded the market in the US. Germany made better knives than Japan at that time. Think Chinese stainless steel of today. Would you own one of those knives for serious work? Heck no. Sure there are always exceptions to the rule, but on the whole they are cheap and disposable. Stainless was seen as a convenience in certain applications like again the kitchen or maybe fillet knives. But for serious work, carbon steel was still the way to go. Most of these cheap knives were made of two steels, 420J ("surgical steel") and 440A and C and one thing that seemed to be very common was bad heat treats, they were almost always tempered extremely hard and tended to snap in half at the worst possible time. Broken tips and blades were simply what you could expect from a stainless knife at this time. Needless to say they were avoided like the plague. Carbon was still the way to go. And thirdly, today, we FINALLY have the modern stainless steels, steels so good they approach or even in some cases surpass the legendary capabilities of our beloved carbon steels. These steels are NEW to the scene, something that has been available only recently to most people. I think it will just take time for the idea that stainless steel is actually a good steel, but ONLY if you get it from a very experienced and reputable company who knows what they are doing. Today even some makers swear by 440c and only use it and it does well for them, like Entrek. I for one will try just about any steel I can get my hands on and my current favorites are CPM 3v and O-1. Some experts still rely on a good carbon steel because they can use it as a last ditch fire starter in the flint and steel tradition, you can't do that with stainless steel (Dave Canterbury for example is a huge proponent of that idea). To this day I will ALWAYS without question avoid ANY stainless steel knife with a blade longer than say 8 or so inches, UNLESS it is Swedish steel or equivalent, a good powdered steel, because stainless steel is imply not suitable for longer blade applications like machetes and swords because it is still too brittle (almost without exception). The perfect example of this is something that happened to me YESTERDAY. I was at my fathers home helping him clear some fallen limbs from a storm a few weeks ago and I happened to have a blade for testing. It WAS a Fox Knives Parang XL made of 440C stainless steel. Thin edge geometry (tall hollow grind). I have used it before in limited brush clearing etc. I was trimming some 1/3" diameter limbs off the pine tree and heard a crack. I looked down and a full inch long by 1/2' deep CHUNK of the blade broke off and was stuck in the base of the branch, the SMALL branch. It was a green tree. NO good knife with good steel should EVER fail to cut a green tree. Needless to say, this kind of thing is what we are used to in America and why we still primarily trust carbon steel. I finished the tree off with my trusty Terävä Skrama bush knife from Varusteleka. Yup, you guessed it carbon steel. It easily destroyed the rest of the limb with no issues. It's all about heat treat, quality materials, knowledge and quality craftsmanship. Unfortunately when it comes to stainless steel in America, until recently, we just did not see any. We know we can almost always trust carbon steel so we stick with it. I think that will change as more people experience the newer better stainless steels coming into use but it will take some time. You guys are young so you get the benefit of our experience and get to use all the newest coolest steels, you are lucky, but that is called progress right? Can you imagine what your kids and grand kids will be using? And how they will look at you when you tell them about that ancient stuff stainless steel no one uses anymore? It was an awesome discussion and I look forward to more from the best, funniest channel on RUclips!
I can't believe I actually read all of that
@@arcticwolf1579 I can't believe I wrote all of that! LOL.
Had to leave a comment after reading that novel. Havent tried 01 yet but I'm just getting into the scene. I'm 36 and have been mostly into EDC folding knives. But finally got a mora robust and bk9. What should I buy now?
@@Nohkral Actually, with the Mora and BK you re pretty much set for anything the woods can throw at you bushcraft wise. I would recommend you look into a good quality folding saw like a Silky, and a good quality mid-size axe. With those tools, you will cover every aspect of bushcraft and survival that is out there with the exception of very specific applications like cup and bowl making which would almost always require a spoon knife. Good luck and have fun!
survival is trying to stay alive. bushcraft is having fun.
Bushcraft is training to survive if need be
This topic is definitely a controversial one in the knife world. I think yall explained it excellently.
thanks a lot!
Dutch Bushcraft Knives can you tell me which was the best stainless steel for survival and bushcraft knives again?
i would love it if you guys reviewed a classic swiss army knife just for fun :)
They are rare these days but one of the best all purpose knives you can get your hands on is the old version of Mora 711, the one with the rubber grip and carbon steel. Its nothing fancy but its a proper work horse. I recently found a local store here in sweden that sell a rebranded version (by made by Frosts in Mora all the same) and I could hardly believe it so I bought 3 of them for less than 4€ each.
TheKimjoh560 lucky
Good video as always. One point that always seems neglected when "survival knives" are brought up is that the need to survive can happen at any moment. So it would need to be a knife that I have on me all the time. If only I could find a comfortable way to carry my s1 pro concealed away but comfortable/accessible.
Of course if I have my pack it's going with me but if I have all my gear it really isn't surviving it's camping.
In the first case the knife you have with you will be your survival knife of course. But I think when a knife manufacturer says he's making a 'survival knife' it has to have certain characteristics. These are the knives you would buy to bring on a mountain hike or something where ending up in a survival situation is much more likely than in the streets. A kitchen knife can become a survival knife but it was never made to be a survival knife. This is kinda what we want to point out. You're completely right, we did forget to mention that the knife you have on you will be your survival knife if need be.
Thanks a lot and happy weekend!
I liked how you guys mentioned what steel you'd prefer in a survival and Bushcraft situation.
My favorite Bushcraft knife is the Mora Kansbol. I just love the dual edge!
Hey DBK Bros, EXCELLENT ANALYSIS! It was informative and good to hear both your perspectives on this topic. I know this was 7 years ago, so your perspectives may have evolved/changed by now, but still a lot of valid points you brought up. For example, I don't have a Bark River Knife yet, but I was planning to buy a Bravo WITH a thumb ramp, but you made a great point about how it can limit thumb placement, so I think I'll get the ramp-less model now. I understand your logic about the importance of stainless in a survival situation, but I don't know if I fully agree, because toughness is also important in a survival situation, and many stainless blades are too hard, brittle and can chip/roll. Also, carbon steel blades are usually much easier to sharpen "on a rock" if you need to. It's a tough call, and you brought up a good point, so I need to consider this one. Like you said, it probably really matters WHERE you're trying to survive (e.g. the jungles of South East Asia vs. the forests of North America vs. the Desert). Now in 2024, perhaps CPM MAGNACUT has solved this dilemma because of the high stain resistance/edge retention AND reasonable toughness. Thanks for all the food for thought, but I also would like to eat some of those crunchy snacks too!
Great points! Im looking at a Bravo 2 in S35VN for a survival knife....maybe paired with something smaller in cpm154 that can be resharpened a little easier.
You should do a video on knife sharpening with river stones
we don't have river stones here in the Netherlands... how sad is that haha
Shawn Goyal ....I have used river stones to sharpen a knife, and you can get a good edge on the right stone !!
Shawn Goyal they work
Dutch Bushcraft Knives in de Maas he mannekes!
This is quickly becoming my favorite bushcraft channel. keep up the good videos, guys!
thanks a lot Luka! we appreciate it!
I like your description of the difference between bushcraft and survival. I've always thought of it this way: Survival means you're in a bad situation with limited resources. Bushcraft is being in the wild by choice and properly prepared. Therefore a survival knife has to do lots of things well, because it may be your only tool. Buchcrafting knives can be far more specialized, as you'll likely have multiple tools available for various tasks. Thanks for the great vid!
I really found this to be one of the most informative videos in this field you comments were insightful with factual examples and you have saved me from buying an A2 steel knife I was surprised the F1 was not one of your choices for a bushcraft knife, thank you.
+Howard green actually we wanted the f1d in the video but we totally forgot haha.thanks a lot mate!
Love these conversations, very high level english guys and I really value your experience :)
thanks a lot for the kind words! we really appreciate it!
in a survval situation you need a versatile knife I think a 6 inch full tang knife is a great in between knife it can do some good chopping and batoning and also do nice finer work like fire making and hunting
Nice overview, guys - your usual fun and informative presentation...
thanks a lot!
I genuinely laughed when he show that tiny knife....
That japanese knife is sick and its sharp. Its a straight razer blade
I have a couple of 2Cm zipper knives and they are probably my most used in a "Ooh, need a blade" moments,
The best knife is the one you have :-D
A fun style presentation once again guys and informative. Here in Alaska as a remote fly-out wilderness river outfitter and guide for whitewater rafting plus sport-fishing... I have to agree when busy working in my real wilderness settings from the standpoint of having knife take care of you vs. always baby-sitting the steel is key to performance. One of the prime reasons to also have stainless firearms here. Nasty weather, splashing whitewater or whitecaps in boats, freeze/thaw-freeze/thaw, snow and ice, on and on... all challenges to deal w/ in not-stainless or not-well-coated knives and guns.
thanks a lot! it's good to hear from someone who really lives in the wilderness!
Nice video! While watching I realized that I had already "watched" it, I had woken up in the middle of the night one time and it was playing on my phone 😂😂! Glad I can watch it now and actually make good sense of why you are talking about.
Your guy's videos are the best on RUclips, especiallythe sharpening vids, my knife is uber sharp now. so thank you guys
Just as awesome video as last time! Cheers from Sweden.
Good vid!
To me, the ideal survival knife is a simple carbon steel such as 1095 in a flatground blade about 5" long, 4-5mm thick- basically a Lionsteel M5 but in 1095 at about 58HRC would be ideal.
The reason being is that it's far easier and quicker to sharpen on make shift sharpeners such as forest /river stones, bits of cement, bricks etc and it can easily be stropped on your belt or pants. Sharpening a convex or scandi takes much longer, and a better and bigger abrasive, than a flat ground and requires much more metal to be removed which wastes energy you don't have. A flat ground can be sharpened on a stone smaller than half a matchbox. Also, in a survival situation I need a knife to be quick and easy to maintain a good edge. The rust potential is not even an issue as it's an emergency survival situation and thus if 1095 won't last you out of it then you're already dead.
I don't even really like flat ground knives but I'd take this in a survival situation anytime, they are a jack of all trades and made sharp in minutes.
The TBS knives are good, I have a Grizzly in 01 and I put it in he same size/weight category as the Bravo-1. The only issue with it is the bevel could be raised a bit (3/4mm to 1mm) to a sharper angle, no big deal.
For bushcraft knives, whatever the individual finds the best is the best. My opinions on this category are similar to your own.
Dunno, Sleipner is "half stainless" and is easy to sharpen, i think is a good choice for survival so you don't need change into 1095, imho
As a similar knife i can suggest Prepper one from Pohl Force or Hest4 from Dpxgear! take a look!
thanks for sharing Tiwar! I agree on the flat grind.
Love a flat grind. Eats wood.
what an excellent channel, intelligent, humorous, informative, and this is the only one I know that treats us to a man in camo having a grande mal seizure in the closing moment!
haha thanks a lot julian! we appreciate the kind words!
Bushcraft- woods skills, survival-staying alive. My picks: best cheapo-bahco 2444- 3,5 EUR in the hardware store, mora companion, robust, 100 EUR-garberg, best surv./bushcraft f1- the basic model. Money to burn-S1 pro. Best big survival blade- a genuine kukri, works in all climates- Nepal goes rrom mountains to jungels. You just have to know how to use it and not have that cold steel thing;) Great vid as always.
great picks and thanks a lot juju!
You recommended the cpm 3v bravo bark river, Maarten?
hell yeah! awesome handle geometry and the 3v is just amazing! but i'd always go for the rampless version!
In a survival situation ..... YOU WILL NEVER HAVE THESE Nuts !!!
just started the video. waiting for mikkie to say "im not high"
Another great video guys! Just bought the fallkniven a1 pro to pair up with my f1 vg10 thanks to your advice! Awesome knife I absolutely love it! Keep up the good work!
Awesome Kevin! great combination!
thanks a lot!
Just further insight on 1095 is that it is popular in the United States and rust is less of an issue since it is dryer than Europe. That being said, I come from an area that is not dry and is raining as often as it is dry so I am right there with you guys on stainless steel.
y'all deserve more sub's!!
thanks a lot!
Dutch Bushcraft Knives
may I request a review???
if so condor discord machete!!!
Hey Maarten, I started making sheaths. Would you or Mikkie like one for your Fallkniven?
Dude the channel has blown up a lot recently.
Joseph F Hey joseph, The mora video was watched about 1.3 milion time sso we got a lot of new subscribers! We are very happy about it! I would love a sheath for my fallkniven! thanks a lot for your offer! Please contact me on dutchbushcraftknives@gmail.com I can't keep complete track of all the reactions on my comments as they don't show up a new ones. We get so many lately haha.
ATB!
You all are right about the esse rusting but the coating would only let part of the blade rust
Wow, that tiny knife joke ACTUALLY made me laugh in real life :D Goodjob yall~!
haha thanks!
Just got my first LT wright Outback scandi grind. The most comfortable handle on any fixed blade ive seen. I think only DLT Trading has that model. But Other places have other models like the Genesis and they are amazing knives.
Only ever owned one Enzo knife, a folder with carbon fibre scales; lost it unfortunately but damn that thing was well-built.
Great video guys. Keep up the good work
So I havent had the great fortune to try a few of the premium knives you guys hail, but I have a DBK knife on the way and I cant wait. That being said my recommended knives for bushcraft/survival/and inbetween would be in that order the Mora Garberg carbon w firesteel and sharpener (or really any carbon steel mora theyre all great), Tops Brother of bushcraft for survival, and great inbetween would be the Gerber Terracraft (love the handle geometry and steel, and spine... and everything else lol) I think a survival knife should be easy to sharpen. I should say Im not shy of sharpening knives tho I love premium steels for edc just havent found the right one that can take a beating, many are brittle.I cary either a swiss AK explorer, or the bradford Guardian
3 in m390. Love you guys. I also have a BK2 but its heavy.
You should name this video muchies vs knife. Like the videos guys thumbs up for educational an laid back knife talk. Cheers from Sweden
thanks a lot \Rynge!
well a good Budget Bushcraft knife unde 50 EU is from Real Steel Bushcrafter in D2
Love the knife talk series would be awesome to have a throw back ep where it’s all serious would be cool to watch I reckon
Very nice conversation. I agree with your thoughts. I just wish there were more good under $30 bushcraft knife options. Keep them coming!
thanks a lot!
22:05 haha like when the guy gets infected in the movie 28 Days Later
Are you boys are really the best I love your videos I can sit here for hours and watch them
Thanks for the thought-provoking knife talk! I'm not totally sure if corrosion resistance is really an issue in a survival situation,but I suppose it is if it actually dulls your blade... Otherwise it's just cosmetics and easy enough to fix later - if you survive that is. The other balance, I think, is the one between edge retention and ease of sharpening. You could pack a 3V and hope it takes you through the crisis without the need to re-sharpen. Or you could pack a carbon steel blade and hope that you'll manage to keep it sharp without too much trouble... I think I'd pack (at least) my Enzo-Elmax and my Terävä Skrama. Love your channel, keep it coming!
thanks a a lot mate! good picks also!
Cool, In Sunny South Africa its summer 33 Degrees Celsius. Winter is a few months away, thanks goodness. Keep up the good videos. Thank you so much for the reply. :-)
thanks a lot Andries!
The BK2 may not be stainless but it does have the rust proof finish on the blade, wouldn't that help at all?
coatings help with the body of the blade, but your EDGE is unprotected; I had one of my favorite ESEEs develop rust in the cutting edge before I really noticed it, like that old song, rust never sleeps!
Julian 3 Is there anything you can do to protect the whole blade form rust? I want to buy one of the BK's but I live in the rainforest, the most humid place in the world. A bit of bad luck eh?
Sol Vella you should get a Cold Steel SRK AUS 8
Bushfriend27´s Outdoordiary Thanks, I'll definitely keep that in mind. It seems slightly thinner than the BK2 and wanted something I know will be able to put up with hell. I'll check out the reviews before I can say it's not the same.
thank you very much for all your time and information have a merry chirsmass and happy new year
thanks a lot Alberto! merry Christmas and a happy new year to you as well!
Bark River Bravo 1 Elmax.
Heat treatment for every BR is done perfectly, but with Elmax they simply raised the bar.
How much tougher is the 3v than the elmax?
You guys should check out the Ontario Bushcraft Woodsman knife 5160 spring steel, it's large but super strong.
Another great video. Thanks Dutch bushcraft knives!! You guys are awesome.
thanks a lot !
Here in 2020, enjoying a fire and some food in my backyard, relaxing and watching some DBK.
Would love to see a whole video of you guys camping or going out into the deep wilderness and using ur choice of blades and stuff and how you camp. Great video
we might do one this winter!
the substantial difference is that real survival is not a planned situation, so you will probably have only your pocket knife with you, or maybe nothing... whereas bushcraft is planned and you can bring any knife with you.
in this case the knife you have with you is the survival knife. However, if you go into a situation where the probability of getting lost or something like that is much higher you could bring a 'survival knife' just in case. on some situations you can never prepare but most outdoor survival situations happen because people are not prepared. You could also use a survival knife to prevent a survival situation haha.
that's true as well. a kind of middle way: "survival-prone" situation
Dutch Bushcraft Knives make a video about your knives arsenal
You guys stick together! Your an awesome duo!!!👌🏽
Awesome video guys, during the next one try to add more details on survival knife as you did in this one about bushcrafting knife, thx ;)
that Michele! we'll keep it in mind!
It was very enjoyable to watch you guys chat, also very helpful vid definitely gonna sub.
thanks a lot mate!
Only issue with Stainless... can’t use it for starting a flint/steel fire. It’s easier to find flint/quartz than it is to find hardened steel.
Just subscribed!! You guys have a great channel with really well made videos! Keep it up! I'm sure you guys will hit 500,000 EASY!
thanks a lot Shahzeb!
Bushcraft for me is camping activities and Survival is getting from point a to point b without dying
Great video by the way you are the best
thanks a lot jorge! Your explanation is definitely right
Dutch Bushcraft Knives Thanh you im from Argentina by the way greetings from here keep the great work
my favourite part was 0:00 - 22:10
+p33cekake hahahaha thanks
Have no interest in knives but love watching these videos! makes me laugh and i actually learn stuff, love the editing as well! been subscribed for about 3 months now and you guys still haven't dissapointed me
thanks a lot mate!
Your videos are well done 😎👍
Keep up the great work
thanks a lot WilL!
Hey guys great points! I agree that bushcraft doesnt only have to be primitive skills but it can be a fusion of modern techniques and gear with old world skills. To me its also just about passing the time outdoors, using natural materials, and developing skills to make oneself more comfortable whilst blending in with the natural world. It should, above all else be sustainable, people should learn how to have a low environmental footprint by being conservative with resources. I look forward to your review about the TBS Boar, as I have that very knife in N695 steel. I want to add, the thing a 4" bushcraft knife has over a large survival knife is that you are more likely to have it on you at all times, simply because its lighter. I always have a Mora on my hip because I dont even notice the weight so it just always gets carried. If you find yourself in a survival situation i bet you didnt plan it, so the best knife will be the one you have on you. Peace
thanks a lot! I agree on the environmental footprint. For me bushcraft is like it is for you, enjoying time in the forest. Sometimes it's making nettle cordage and a friction fire while the other time it is hammocking with some high end gas burners and a nice meal.
My TBS boar is also in N695 and I really like the steel. I think the review will have to wait untill spring. We have so much to do.
All the best!
where dose the full tang mora fit in the context of the show and how fo you find the steel to sharpen cheers great channel guys.
thanks a lot! The Mora garberg is great. It could have been on this table. there is no reason that it's not. The garberg is a great care free bushcrafting and around the camp knife. The steel is pretty easy to sharpen and it keeps a decent edge as well. its not high end but overall a very decent steel.
I can't really find much about scandivex. Is it a convexgrind that starts where the normal scandibevel would start or is it a scandi with a convexed microbevel ?
Very informative chaps. U guys crack me up!😂😂😂 pure gold. Love blades too! Thanks lads. Atb Dom.
thanks a lot Dom!
i agree with you guys i never understand why so many like carbon steel for survival knives i have a mora carbon that i use to carve wood but i would never go out in the woods with it survival gear means being prepared for the worst
Daniel Rosado It's simple.
Carbon steel is soft steel, very easy to sharp even in the field, quite simple to maintain, in a survival or bushcraft scenario, a string of leather (your belt maybe) can be used to strop the edge of the blade, with or without compound you can achieve a razor sharp in no time. And also, probably the most important value of the carbon steel, it's the property of the steel itself, with a piece of flint you can create a good spark for fire (if you are capable of) in the other hand inox don't rust, but you have to maintain the edge, and it's a bit harder in the field, because the hardness of the steel. Of course don't create any kind of spark over the flint.
Nico coin i know carbon steel is a good steet but i was agreeing with them when they said in a survival situation your knife is looking after you and you shouldn't be looking out for it, stainless wont rust it might dull faster but knowing it will be there for how ever long you surviving no matter the weather is is reassuring
to many people exaggerating whit the rust, in a survival situation you need to get ''out'' fast that's mean 1-3 days...a carbon blade knife even after a year without care it's still do his job, get a stone and in 5 min you are good to go(sry my bad engl)
When i was in Army, I would stay out for weeks at a time in Georgia. I believe that is a pretty humid area. I still have that old Kabar in it's original sheath. I can't ever remember putting any oil on it. I probably did wipe it down. It has patina, but zero rust. It still resides in it's leather sheath with no oil and has no rust as far as I can tell. It just seems like the whole rust thing is overblown. I have a knife I made that I use for scraping things and leave it wet sometimes with no sheath. It will get a couple spots after a while, but it still works fine after years. Same with a carbon scraper I use in the kitchen for iron pans.
Great videos! Sucks the book never passed kickstarter. Anyone find where to buy it?
Keep in mind that the native people of the Amazon use carbon steel machettes, knives and axes. And they work great. I see your point about stainles steels but i think you make it a bigger issue than it is. It also ofcourse depends on what carbon steel you use.
You should try out 80crv2 steel. Try out the Varustelekas "Skrama knife" and the "Jääkäri puukko" also called "Jaeger knife". Its a "good bang for the buck" knife.
I have the puukko! still need to test it though. I got the carbon version on purpose as the steel should be a good bit better than the 12c27.
N690Co is a fantastic steel that I think is missing so far from your reviews; are you planning on testing it or have I missed a video or 2?
Take it easy, Ben
I have an enzo trapper and a Steel Will Gekko 1530 in N690Co. very lovely steel. Very similar to vg-10. I like it a lot. I have an old video on the steel will gekko.
alright, you guys talked me into it, a good stainless is definitely the way to go.....I just traded in my SRK carbon steel for a new SRK San Mai III....thanks for opening my eyes!
haha no problemo Brian!
hey, you guys have any experience with the vg-1 San mai III? love to hear ya talk about it in a vid!
when you do knife talks and present new knives, you should put the name of it or them in the notes below or on screen. it would be much better for researching. Love your vids so keep going!
thanks for the tip! I'll try to think about it next time!
Thanks for another informative vid! What do you think of serrated edge blades? I personally hate them but lots of reviewers swear by them. Any thoughts other blade shapes such as tanto or clip-points?
Say Heah M&M, I started gravitating towards a Survival Bushcraft Knife. A blade of around 5"+-6"+. I do have a couple. Like one of them my Modified B H Modde Attitude. Infact I just bought a Cold Steel Flak Jack in a Satin Finish and in the INFI Steel with Black G-10 Handle. It sort of reminds me of my S. O. G. Pillar Fix Blade, but a little larger and in the INFI Steel.,,.p
Hey, when are we getting the TBS Boar video? also, I would like you to see your review of an Adventure Sworn knife.
Review an old hickory hunter please I want to see what you guys think of it
For me a survival knife and a bushcraft knife are the same. 1 is none 2 is one is something I do follow so basically a small pocket knife and a somewhat larger knife. Breaking a knife if you use it properly is hard to do but loosing a knife can happen any time. My pocket knife is a SAK model soldier. The one we did get in the Dutch Army long time ago. For the one I use as bushcraft/survival knife I look at toughness and also inside the handle. A lot of knives that are sold as full tang have a skeletonized full tang like Enzo. Enzo has still a lot of metal under the handle but some other brands are skeletonized to the max to reduce weight and they are not stronger than a stick tang. They can break inside the handle making it useless. I also don't care about stainless or carbon. If the knife feels good in your hand, use it. I'm perfectly comfortable with a 10 dollar Hultafors GK for any bushcraft/survival situation.
Grate channel along with big brown Learning a lot from all of you but how fast does 1095 actually rust if u have a kydex sheath I do have a fallkniven A1 but what I said about carbon being a bad choice for survival when so many other ppl recommend it as a top pick don't know if that just has to do with your climate there
You guys ever got your hands on a TOPS BOB knife? I love mine, I alternate between it and a Falkniven S1. It's a nice in between survival/bushcraft, which makes it(and the S1) the perfect backpacking blades. It's nice to be able to process some fire wood and maybe sit down and do light carving to pass the time with the same knife.
Keep up the great work, love the videos!
+Kevin McCall thanks a lot Kevin! The Bob in 154cm is coming our way as we speak!
Sweet!
can u guys try the terava skrama? its the inly knife that can do fine tasks like a mora but it has incredible chopping.
we might try one in the future!
I’d have a blast spending a week out in woods with yous!
great video!! any thoughts on the OKC Blackbird? I am looking for a bush knife under $100 bit also easy to restore an edge.
I think it's a real user the price is right for the 154 cm steel. the 154 cm is a good mid range steel. It shouldn't be hard to sharpen 154cm with the proper tools. I think the knife is a pretty good deal.
I'd like to see you guys do more budget knives like condor or schrade. Most of them are 1075 or 1095, but some are great knives for the budget collector.
+Ruger Man we might cover hultafors soon. Schrades are very expensive in the Netherlands for what they are. They are double the price or more
I am quite curious about what sharpening gear you would take on like a 1 to 2-week trip. Do you just go with a strop? or do you take your whole sharpening stone closet with you? or just one stone? I can't imagine you guys holding any knife without a mirror polished edge.
To be honest I can get around for 2 weeks quite well with just a well loaded strop. I do take my DC4 for any small chips. After the 2 weeks I do have to give the knife a good spa treatment as the dc4 leaves it's marks.
There is a company using some Canadian spring steel called zombie tools. They are very expensive, is that steel any good ?
Could you please repeat what steels you said were good for survival? You spoke a bit too fast to hear properly. Also could you please mention a couple of knives with those steels that you would recommend for survival purposes? Thank you.
another awesome video.
thanks a lot!
Hi guys great show I love your antics :) have you both ever tried the Prepared Mind 101 jx 3 knife made by LT Wright Knives, its a hell of a good knife made in all your favourite steels Elmax CPM 3, 01 tool steel etc... Love Introduction guy and Big hammer man :):) you two are off your heads :):)
Good work guys keep it up
thanks mate!
since you guys are a fan of scandinavian knives, maybe you should have a look at the Swedish Karesuando knives or the Norwegian Brusletto.
5:57 look at the grind of this mora dude wtf I love it
I live on the south coast of USA. I lean toward carbon steel. people have used carbon steel cutlery for hundreds of years. I also love cooking in cast iron. a lot of people hate it because they say it rusts.
It's all about taking care of your cooking ware. My pan did rust once but I just scrubbed it off put some oil on it and it was good to go. a cast iron pot will outlive any other pan a 100 times if you take a bit of care.
These videos make me spend too much money, thanks guys.
hahaha! you are welcome !