How To: GE Door Boot Seal WH08X10036
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- Опубликовано: 2 авг 2024
- How To Replace: GE Door Boot Seal WH08X10036 www.appliancepartspros.com/ge-...
Symptoms: Has a hole in it; you’re getting water on the floor.
Tools: Phillips screwdriver, flathead screwdriver, 1/2” socket, locking pliers.
This GE made Washer Door Boot Seal replaces the following older part numbers on General Electric, Hotpoint, RCA, Sears and Kenmore Washers: 1394050, WH08X10022, WH08X10040.
Buy the new Washer Door Boot Seal WH08X10036 here: www.appliancepartspros.com/ge-...
Most orders delivered in 2 business days or less.
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I am a maintenance tech at a new property with front load washing machines that I have never worked on before. I had to change one of these out and was able to do it in less than an hour thanks to your video. Thank you so much!
Glad you were able to complete your repair. If there is anything we can help you with in the future please let us know.
One potential gotcha - really check the tube from the soap dispenser well. I must not have gotten it fully seated and it dripped, but I only had to take off the outer spring clamp to get to it (after the control panel, base, and door of course). Thought I might need a new gasket for that but took it out and it looked good, just must not have put it all the way back (there is a small divot in the tube that matches up to the place it connects). Working now - thanks for the video instruction.
Thanks for the video. I have a similar model and this was very helpful. For other "I want to be handy but..." people like me...just note that getting the boot started is much more difficult than this pro makes it look! I started many times before I got my fingers under and over. After that it was much easier to slowly guide the boot in that first channel. I started top, went toward the left (door side for me), then toward the right side (with the heaver rubber flap). Once I got the top half on, the bottom was easy.
I wanted to thank you so much for the very informative and detailed video. If this isn't the best step-by-step video I've ever used, it's up there. Our washer was leaking and we called GE, A service repairman came out and said it would be $430 to replace. I purchased the seal and clamp for under $100. I followed your tutorial and everything was exactly what you described, screw by screw. Thanks again!
This video was excellent & very helpful! I am a single mom & was able to replace the boot seal on my washer - never did an appliance repair in my life! If I can do it, anyone can with the help of this video-thanks again!!
Patricia Manger Awesome, glad the video helped you get the seal changed!
My wife and I replaced the gasket and it worked all thanks to you for the easy to follow step by step instructions
Good on you for the trouble you went to with the lighting and the lapel mic; they make a real difference.
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Great instructions! It took a couple of hours with 2 people, but the directions were great, excellent visuals, and being able to stop and go back a couple of times was super helpful.
Glad you were able to get your repair completed. If we can help you out with anything in the future please let us know!
Worked for my GE washer, slightly different model but enough was the same to make it work. Took about an hour to start to finish, getting the seal on was a pain and then again the metal ring around that was also a pain
Thank you very much for your great video! Step by step perfect for the DIY homeowner. A+ sir!!!!!
Thanks for the great step by step directions. Work perfectly for us!
Super helpful. Did it myself w/ a $43 boot seal instead of a minimum $100 tech fee plus $180 for the part from GE.
You guys really helped me out with your clear and concise steps. Thanks!
You are very welcome. Glad we were able to help you out. If there is anything we can help you with in the future please let us know.
Excellent video, made the process go so smoothly. Thank you for sharing this knowledge.
Earlier models of this machine (apparently) require you to remove both weights to get the seal properly set in the lock channel. Also, my model didn't have the large tube, only the small round tube. This required a slight modification to the boot seal that they sent. Whole process took about two hours with good tool skills. Wear gloves. Wear gloves.
My man, you are a legend! Thank you for making this video! It helped immensely!
The biggest help and closest to what we were working on. Thank you
+Tanya Robinson Glad the video helped you get the washer fixed!
Awesome video! Super easy to follow! Thank you so much!
Very clear instructions. Thanks!
Awesome vid thanks I found my top hose pulled through the hole in the seal
Thanks for the awesome video was very helpful from start to finish. Great job 👏
I appreciate this video! So helpful
Glad we were able to help you.
I have LG wash machine and this video saved me abt. 60$ - good tip on how to use grips instead of special tool from LG which most stores trying to sale along with gasket replacement.
+Pavel Ch Glad the video helped you out!
Great video. Thank you!!
You're welcome! Thanks for your feedback.
Great Video.....
Good job
Thank you thank you thank you
My washer doesn’t have the black tube that connects to the hole but the gasket has a hole. Do I leave it and hope it doesn’t leak or try and seal it? Any suggestions how to seal it?
It looked like there were two clamps. Where did the first one go?
Great video. I replaced my boot but now the water does not want to drain out of the bottom of the boot. This was not an issue before I replaced the boot, so I assumed the drain holes were not clogged. I could not see them because of the weight. I suspect they may be clogged. Do you agree or is there some other reason the water wouldn't drain from here?
+Tony D OK, so I looked around a bit more and figured out that the boot's drain holds weren't actually holes at all. There were molded in ports that looked like holds that didn't actually go all the way through. Why is this?
+Tony D Not sure what you mean, if your model had drain hoses at the bottom you may have to trim the holes open and install the fittings and hoses. On the seal in this video there was no lower drain hoses.
will this keep the drum tight as well
This seals the drum to the front bulk head. It does not really secure the drum.
Is there a chance the track could bend?
What track do you mean?
I have a few questions regarding the boot/seal/baffle in the GE washer with matching dryer. I don’t have the model for the washer, but it’s matching dryer model is DCVH515EF0WW.
This set has performed admirably for many years; hwr, a couple or so years ago, I started having water standing in the rubber seal/boot/gasket/baffle. I have cleaned the inside & outside with plain water, liquid laundry detergent, Pine Sol lemon cleaner, diluted bleach, a spray sold by Grove specifically for cleaning the inside of the washer. It does nothing to help with draining the water from the inside of the boot thingy. I do clean the filter in the bottom front of the washer every month to 2 months. The filter is never full. In fact, there’s rarely anything in it.
1: Is there any reason I’m getting the water that won’t drain? Any way to make it drain out?
2: Is there any way to better clean the space that the detergent basket is slid into? Mine keeps getting grungy. The basket clean cycle & a cleaning brush can clean the basket but I can’t get into the hold area that the basket slides into.
Thanks for any & all assistance.
Have you checked for any blockages in the drain area? Have you tried to use some afresh washer cleaner to see if that will help clean your machine?
@@appliancepartspros Yes. I used Affresh every month for a couple years before switching to the Tide washing machine clear. Used Affresh in my dishwasher until getting the new one. It (Maytag brand tho I think they are owned together with GE & Whirlpool) was recommended Cascade dishwasher cleaner. I’ve seen ads that Lemi Shine started making cleaners for dishwashers, garbage disposals, & washing machines. I haven’t tried these yet. My husband loves Lemi Shine. He uses it to wash bullet casings before reloading them.
Water stands about 1/3rd to not quite half full inside the rubber baffling/seal after washing a load of laundry. I have scrubbed what feels like little drain holes in the bottom of the rubber piece. While typing this, my daughter stopped by. She helped me check the rubber seal thing. She checked the spot where I felt little holes. She checked further & discovered the area where the seal meets the inside of the door. It had lint & just outright grime between the inner seal and the washer drum. She cleaned that little section with her fingers. She also had some small tweezers (forgot they were in her pocket when she got off work) that was able to grab the gunky bits that were over & caught up in the spaces on the drum. We could immediately hear water trickling. Since she was there at the opening, she was able to see the water levels lowering from inside the rubber seal thing.
My daughter said there is more gunk like she took out. It’s in the area between the seal & the drum. I think that is the area behind where the inside metal band with spring sits against the drum. Does this sound right? If so, can it be cleaned without taking the washer a part or damaging the seal? I was able to find the washer model. It is GFWH1400D0WW. I hope that helps.
It does sound as if you have gunk in there, but in order to get in there and clean it you will have to take the machine apart.
@@appliancepartspros I sort of thought that would be the case. I’ll have to wait until I have enough put back in case I have to call a repair person. Until then, I have a small head cleaning brush with a v shape cut bristles that I can scrub along the edges until then. Currently, I’m waiting on a Saturday (tomorrow) delivery of the glider assembly with the four glider pieces, replacement felt, & belt for the matching dryer.
Do you have any tips or a video link on how to get into the area below the dryer drum? The exhaust pipe came loose on the inside of the dryer. And yes, I clearly told my husband he needed to screw in the exhaust pipe when we got the dryer from our sil/bil. His response was, ‘I’m not planning to move it, are you?’ Afterward, I replied that yes, I would need to pull it out to vacuum.’ He didn’t think it would move it enough to affect it. 🤦🏽♀️🤦🏽♀️🤦🏽♀️ We have been together more than 35yrs & sometimes… sometimes I love him so much I just wanna hold his head under water until the 🫧🫧🫧 stop. 😂 I did manage to get the exhaust pipe over the exhaust in the front & the little screw is in place. I was able to pull out the lint that had built up on that side by lifting the drum on the right side facing the front of the dryer. I can’t figure out how to get to the lower left side from the front to make sure all the built up lint is out on that side, not to mention making sure the coils are lint free. Heaven knows I can’t afford to replace any appliance right now, esp not the washer or dryer. I’d likely die from the stress if it caught on fire. My nerves just couldn’t take it.
❤️🤗❤️🤗
I had the rubber boot put in yesterday. I used machine with no problem until second load. When I opened washer it smelled and was smoking. I think rubber at ten o'clock position is rubbing and making the rubber burn. Has anyone had this problem?
Without knowing what you have, I would suggest posting the problem along with the appliance model number on our repair forum and the techs can help you troubleshoot the problem. forum.appliancepartspros.com/
I am having the exact same problem with my GE washer that is displayed here in this video.
Kids: Never start a nut in the socket. Cross threading is for amateurs. Start your nuts by hand then use the socket. :)
Thanks for that tip!
Would be very helpful if the very beginning of the video told you all of the tools that you need so you're not trying to go find tools in the middle of all your trying to fix the machine