I love your attention to detail, I used to call in at the Rolls Royce factory in Crewe and was fascinated by the amount of meticulous work they did, that the customer would never see. One of their engineers told me, it's the attention to detail that makes our cars so expensive, like tinning the waterways on the engine block, so you'll never see rusty water when you remove the rad cap. I was so impressed with their skills, just as I am with yours, brilliant!
Just lovely to see a sensitive and sympathetic restoration. My cousin has two Rover P5b’s ; one, a 1969 coupe, which is virtually all original and a 1973 saloon which has had much more done, including a full repaint. I didn’t really understand his approach as I was into “Concourse” cars - I now get it and as he says why destroy the patina; it’s like sanding back a piece of antique furniture and making it look new again. Some cars are obviously past a sensitive restoration but so many get over done and end up as characterless examples. You can’t put back 60 years of patina ! 😉
Richard, as always you have produced top drawer work and a first quality product. I'm also enjoying getting to see your hat/cap collection. You show impeccable taste in a chapeau. Keep 'em coming!
So nice to see original equipment rebuilt and refreshed where needed and not just replaced with cheap reproductions. Very inspiring. Mr. Owens, thanks for making the time and effort to take us on the journey too.
Great to see the preservation working on this jag. I have a 62 TR4 that was beyond preserving and needed a restoration. I can see how the e type was much more up market in features and quality to the triumph.
Hi Richard, I believe that you are approaching this car correctly. I also have a 1962 E type - a right hand drive. Mine has the original wiring loom as well and I have carefully worked around it. Given its age and the fact that wiring is not fuse protected between the battery and the fuse panels, I installed a 40A fuseable link on the top of the starter solenoid - just in case.
Well done Richard, you are on the road to 'freezing the E type in time'! Wasn't sure which way you should go at the outset but with the quality of the key component clean up or upgrade I think this looks great against the cat's 1960s patina! Great job, love watching this video and the XK150 (my dream car!) from Aus!
I would recommend against grade 8 bolts for suspension. Although having a higher tensile strength than grade 5, they are more brittle. that is why most purpose built race cars use grade 5 in that location.. keep up the great videos
I am hoping the owner enjoys "this journey" as much or more than the rest of us. I do believe you chose the appropriate path for this Jag. I also want you to know it is extremely enjoyable to sit down with my Sunday evening meal and watch this video. They go together so nicely. Thanks!!!
Really excited to see what this car looks like when done. I love the full mechanical refresh with the original paint/fits/finishes. As an automotive engineer who did some steering and suspension design work (in the 1990’s/2000’s), I’m really impressed with the design of the E-type steering and front suspension. Very advanced for circa 1960.
Richard, this car is just a jewel. I’m loving the meticulous way you show us around the thoughts that are in your mind and why you do things the way you do - It’s very special. Thank you so much for sharing with us. Blessings from Royal Berkshire 🇬🇧
Outstanding. A labor of love. It will be great. Thanks for saving it and not putting lipstick on it and having it live in a trailer. DRIVE THAT BABY. SHES BEAUTIFUL.
One thing I've done on my '68 OTS is improved the grounding contacts such as 6:18 in the boot. I've added a # of new grounding points & this has added to the reliability of my car these last 35 yrs of ownership. This increases the brightness of lights & lessens the heat problems of some wiring. Just my $0.02¢ worth of help. Keep on going you're doing great.
I like your work, your craftsman values and the reality that you confer with the customer offering all ideas and working as a team! Your approach to the E-type is my kind of roadable restoration celebrating the originality of the vehicle while making minimal improvements that are very rational and worthwhile!
It is truly amazing to watch you guys at work! I love seeing the bits you do change and those you don't and then the reason why! It is fantastic to watch! Thank you so much! I know you do not need good luck but it is said as that is what we say! I cannot wait to see the end results!
Absolutely fabulous! I am so pleased that it is keeping any original and good parts along the way, and of course I am just as pleased to see a new petrol tank! I am so looking forward to a test drive video in future as well as more episodes on the re-assembly. Best wishes from George
Great job Richard. I've been restoring my 67 Series 1 2+2 by watching your Junk E Type videos. These latest videos are even better. My car has also been off the road for 39 years. I'm not sure what to do about the old wiring harness. It appears in good condition, but as another viewer said, I'd hate to see my car go up in flames for the sake of a few hundred dollars. I'm also retaining as much originality as possible but the jury is still out on the electrics.
Excellent job Richard , saving another one , it's amazing to know that there are cars out there this original , I wonder how many more there are ............
He's certainly being sympathetic to the original paint, etc, impressively so. However, I been wondering what the fate of this car is going to be. In terms of rust protection, there isn't a whole lot of that. If it's going to be a daily or regular driver, and gets wet / etc, that original, uncorroded, undamaged metalwork is going to deteriorate pretty quickly (obviously, I don't know what measures Richard is going to put in place later - more underseal, or something, though I'd expect that to have gone on first...). It'd be a crying shame if it turns up in his workshop in 10 years time rotten with tin worm. So whilst it's nice to see original paint, it's not half so important as original metal work, and the only way I can see that being preserved for the long term is if it's not driven much. Which would be a big pity, really. Obviously the original paint is such that it's not an easy choice, and ultimately it's up to the owner. But had I been the owner, I'd have happily traded loss of old paint for the worry free motoring I'd then gain.
@@abarratt8869 Yes, it is a concern, but if I were the owner, I guess I would ensure that adequate protection was in place and inspected regularly as part of ongoing maintenance to keep it up to scratch. I have noted that Richard is treating rust as he discovers it and I am sure that he will protect as he goes along.
I noticed a small struggle installing the brake box to the firewall. Ive used rubbing alcohol for fitting stubborn rubber stuff...evaporates quickly, no stain and AFAIK doesnt promote deterioration
Love it ! Eye candy Yes yes .... save the original patina ! Great work your doing. I would only spot paint the door better ! I think a color expert can match the original paint better . It's only original once, great your only preserving and doing safety items as well. Zoom Zoom.
Richard. Thanks for another great video. I am currently rebuilding my pedal box as you show around 14.15mins but confused where the pedal return sprinf attaches to. You seem to show one end on the castle nut. Does it replace the split pin? Where does the other end attach to. Thanks. Hugh
Great job so far. one niggle - I'm sad that you didn't try preserve the original Dunlop brake servo face plate - mine was painted an odd color but it was quite dark and I feel the silver looks out of place.
Really enjoying this series, Richard (ditto the XK150), thank you. Quick question: are you reassembling the threads dry or do you use any anti-seize products? Interested in your thoughts. Thx
Great Stuff, could the V have been a 7, 6 on one side 7 on the other? If it was a 7 it would probably have had a slash through it, but it's just a thought.
I understand that those old fuel tanks are a pain in the posterior to clean up what with all the baffles limiting access. But that original Lucas fuel pump is pretty simple and likely wouldn't take much to clean up. Mine looked worse when I rebuilt it and it's never let me down. Likewise, those brake master cylinders are a simple rebuild to as good as new with a seal kit for just a few dollars and are sooo visible in that engine compartment. By all means save those original components for the next owner. Original parts are getting pretty thin on the ground!
I noticed you installed the ball joints dry on the tapered contact. I have been applying anti seize to make removal much easier. Not factory, I know, but I hate beating on my old Jaguar parts.. anyone care to comment?
@3:00 "...kind of the new, rat-rod style...restoration...". exactly, and it will eventually go out of style (like semi-gloss paint), once people have had their fill of looking at rusted bumpers and blistering paint. :)
It's likely a previous owner "freshened" the gold head paint at some point. Pretty unlikely those plugs are original and even more unlikely jaguar would deliver a brand new car looking like that.
I bought a 1963 convertible out of a junkyard as a kid for 1800 bucks...I did a frame off on it and sold it for 20k ...I had I known 35 years later the would be worth what they are now?...
Why is the waxy substance,, which kept surfaces rust free for sixty years, being removed? I understand the aesthetic improvement, but why sacrifice originality when it did its job so well?
I hear endless jokes about Lucas electrics but I can tell you now that if you can find original N.O.S Lucas parts they are 10 times better than the pure junk being peddled in Lucas boxes nowadays.
Richard I have total respect for what you do , BUT not replacing the wiring harnesses IMHO is a grave mistake, YES I KNOW I have said it before but there is no way you can see the harness deterioration inside the loom and this can could burst into flames, because you kept the almost 60 year old wires, they are original, the whole car could be lost for a few hundred dollars, I know because this has happened, it's not worth it. I know you disagree with me but I hope I am wrong as another classic will be lost, you are not restoring a harness you are hoping all is OK, lets hope I am wrong.
@Graham on the bits he can see but unless completely unwrapped and re-wrapped you never know whats lurking inside, unfortunately I have seen the result of using an old harness first hand not pretty. But of course this is not my project.
Dear Sir. I owned two of these cars. A 4.2litre fixed head and a 3.8 drop head. I'm British and a huge E-Type fanatic. The paint is like the makeup on a woman's face. You wouldn't be taking anything away from this car if you took it back and removed the rust on the body and repainted it in the same original colour. Afterall the way this car was used,maintained and stored has nothing to do with the factory. Why not bring it back to original condition. You stand a chance of giving it a further 60 years or more.
Hey Tim, just like I said at the end of the series: you can strip this original car down and restore it better than new, but then it's no different from the showpieces churned out by CMC, Woodham Mortimer, Classic Showcase, Team CJ.. Right now it stands alone as the sole original paint original interior '62 Coupe.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
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Even without its body, the E-type is a thing of beauty.
I love your attention to detail, I used to call in at the Rolls Royce factory in Crewe and was fascinated by the amount of meticulous work they did, that the customer would never see. One of their engineers told me, it's the attention to detail that makes our cars so expensive, like tinning the waterways on the engine block, so you'll never see rusty water when you remove the rad cap. I was so impressed with their skills, just as I am with yours, brilliant!
Well done Richard. She is looking fantastic and you are giving it a perfect and proportional refurbishment. Kind regards, Richard
Richard, you have the perfect life working on these old Jags. You.must wake up each morning itching to get into work for another day. I am so jealous.
Just lovely to see a sensitive and sympathetic restoration. My cousin has two Rover P5b’s ; one, a 1969 coupe, which is virtually all original and a 1973 saloon which has had much more done, including a full repaint. I didn’t really understand his approach as I was into “Concourse” cars - I now get it and as he says why destroy the patina; it’s like sanding back a piece of antique furniture and making it look new again. Some cars are obviously past a sensitive restoration but so many get over done and end up as characterless examples. You can’t put back 60 years of patina ! 😉
Richard, as always you have produced top drawer work and a first quality product. I'm also enjoying getting to see your hat/cap collection. You show impeccable taste in a chapeau. Keep 'em coming!
So nice to see original equipment rebuilt and refreshed where needed and not just replaced with cheap reproductions. Very inspiring. Mr. Owens, thanks for making the time and effort to take us on the journey too.
Great to see the preservation working on this jag. I have a 62 TR4 that was beyond preserving and needed a restoration. I can see how the e type was much more up market in features and quality to the triumph.
Hi Richard, I believe that you are approaching this car correctly. I also have a 1962 E type - a right hand drive. Mine has the original wiring loom as well and I have carefully worked around it. Given its age and the fact that wiring is not fuse protected between the battery and the fuse panels, I installed a 40A fuseable link on the top of the starter solenoid - just in case.
Beautiful job. You make it look so easy, but I are so Experienced at your craft. Enjoy your videos.
Well done Richard, you are on the road to 'freezing the E type in time'! Wasn't sure which way you should go at the outset but with the quality of the key component clean up or upgrade I think this looks great against the cat's 1960s patina! Great job, love watching this video and the XK150 (my dream car!) from Aus!
I would recommend against grade 8 bolts for suspension. Although having a higher tensile strength than grade 5, they are more brittle. that is why most purpose built race cars use grade 5 in that location.. keep up the great videos
Excellent work & presentation as usual Richard 👌. Great to hear your thoughts & insights. Thx so much for sharing.
Evening Buddy. Being an English man it’s fantastic seeing this icon car coming back to life by an American 🇺🇸 🤣 Cheers Stevie 😎🏴
Thanks for the way you transfer the love of these cars from your heart to ours!
An honour to follow you along Richard !!!
Incroyable restauration !!
I am hoping the owner enjoys "this journey" as much or more than the rest of us. I do believe you chose the appropriate path for this Jag. I also want you to know it is extremely enjoyable to sit down with my Sunday evening meal and watch this video. They go together so nicely. Thanks!!!
This is truly a unique car! Can't wait for the next episode!
exactly like I would like to have the work done, great preservation with originality and secure function
Fantastic work so enjoyable watching you work
Really excited to see what this car looks like when done. I love the full mechanical refresh with the original paint/fits/finishes. As an automotive engineer who did some steering and suspension design work (in the 1990’s/2000’s), I’m really impressed with the design of the E-type steering and front suspension. Very advanced for circa 1960.
I'm geeking out too, Richard. Glad to know there are other OCD people like me.
Can’t wait to see the silver cat purr again. You’re doing a great job. 👏👏
Beautiful work.
You are doing an exceptional job
Richard, this car is just a jewel. I’m loving the meticulous way you show us around the thoughts that are in your mind and why you do things the way you do - It’s very special. Thank you so much for sharing with us. Blessings from Royal Berkshire 🇬🇧
This car is such a joy… so many original details still intact! I’m loving this series!
Outstanding. A labor of love. It will be great. Thanks for saving it and not putting lipstick on it and having it live in a trailer. DRIVE THAT BABY. SHES BEAUTIFUL.
You're doing a wonderful job on that E type Richard, it'll be great to see it running and back on the road.
One thing I've done on my '68 OTS is improved the grounding contacts such as 6:18 in the boot. I've added a # of new grounding points & this has added to the reliability of my car these last 35 yrs of ownership. This increases the brightness of lights & lessens the heat problems of some wiring. Just my $0.02¢ worth of help. Keep on going you're doing great.
So glad you decided to keep original.
Lots of great history in front of you !
evapo-rust might be a good alternative to media blasting.. everything is looking fantastic keep up the spectacular work
I like your work, your craftsman values and the reality that you confer with the customer offering all ideas and working as a team! Your approach to the E-type is my kind of roadable restoration celebrating the originality of the vehicle while making minimal improvements that are very rational and worthwhile!
It is truly amazing to watch you guys at work! I love seeing the bits you do change and those you don't and then the reason why! It is fantastic to watch! Thank you so much! I know you do not need good luck but it is said as that is what we say! I cannot wait to see the end results!
I thought it looked like a "check mark" to me.
Absolutely fabulous! I am so pleased that it is keeping any original and good parts along the way, and of course I am just as pleased to see a new petrol tank!
I am so looking forward to a test drive video in future as well as more episodes on the re-assembly.
Best wishes from George
I'm with you dude, well worth saving. Loving the build. Keep it coming
Brilliant episode, can't fault the decisions made. Looking forward to the next installment.
100% the right approach for such a cracking survivor. Loving the vids.
Nice work. Very interesting to see the original bits and pieces. 👍👍
Glad you chose the 'rusteration' route. I love to see the juxtaposition of original and brand new shiny parts. Looks bloody brilliant!
Great job Richard. I've been restoring my 67 Series 1 2+2 by watching your Junk E Type videos. These latest videos are even better. My car has also been off the road for 39 years. I'm not sure what to do about the old wiring harness. It appears in good condition, but as another viewer said, I'd hate to see my car go up in flames for the sake of a few hundred dollars. I'm also retaining as much originality as possible but the jury is still out on the electrics.
Excellent job Richard , saving another one , it's amazing to know that there are cars out there this original , I wonder how many more there are ............
E type registry?
She's looking bloody beautiful, Richard. Ace work.
Wonderful, really pleased with your sympathetic approach.
He's certainly being sympathetic to the original paint, etc, impressively so.
However, I been wondering what the fate of this car is going to be. In terms of rust protection, there isn't a whole lot of that. If it's going to be a daily or regular driver, and gets wet / etc, that original, uncorroded, undamaged metalwork is going to deteriorate pretty quickly (obviously, I don't know what measures Richard is going to put in place later - more underseal, or something, though I'd expect that to have gone on first...). It'd be a crying shame if it turns up in his workshop in 10 years time rotten with tin worm.
So whilst it's nice to see original paint, it's not half so important as original metal work, and the only way I can see that being preserved for the long term is if it's not driven much. Which would be a big pity, really.
Obviously the original paint is such that it's not an easy choice, and ultimately it's up to the owner. But had I been the owner, I'd have happily traded loss of old paint for the worry free motoring I'd then gain.
@@abarratt8869 Yes, it is a concern, but if I were the owner, I guess I would ensure that adequate protection was in place and inspected regularly as part of ongoing maintenance to keep it up to scratch. I have noted that Richard is treating rust as he discovers it and I am sure that he will protect as he goes along.
Great episode love the car and your attention to detail! Cheers!
Thank you for the video - very enjoyable!!
This car will be awesome when you are done!
I purchased a new Tr6 harness some 20 yrs ago. The new connectors were crimped over the insulation.
Bloody brilliant !
Lookin Good so far.... Like your work.. :-))
I really like your videos.
Lovely work, all the plating looks superb, good to use the old parts where possible. Top job. 👍
Such a special car, its going to look stunning once shes back on the road. 2x👍
Nice work. So relaxing to watch this.
This is great. Thanks for sharing.
I hope you can go in a lot of detail when your re-install the torsion bars. I'm dreading having to remove these on my '63 roadster.
Loving this series!!
So love the professional knowledge.
As always, thanks so much for the share. Really enjoy it.
Richard . Your in "e"type heaven !
looks amazing your going the right way about it . keep it going and what's the next car going to be
Excellent --
gonna be a real nice car
Epic approach! Wrote it before but it deserves to be written again :-)
I noticed a small struggle installing the brake box to the firewall. Ive used rubbing alcohol for fitting stubborn rubber stuff...evaporates quickly, no stain and AFAIK doesnt promote deterioration
The Jaguar Whisperer!
Love it ! Eye candy
Yes yes .... save the original patina ! Great work your doing.
I would only spot paint the door better ! I think a color expert can match the original paint better .
It's only original once, great your only preserving and doing safety items as well.
Zoom Zoom.
Brilliant. 🍀
Richard. Thanks for another great video. I am currently rebuilding my pedal box as you show around 14.15mins but confused where the pedal return sprinf attaches to. You seem to show one end on the castle nut. Does it replace the split pin? Where does the other end attach to. Thanks. Hugh
I'm buying my wife some "automotive jewellery " for Christmas. She's going to be so happy.
When are the front shocks going on. When the front shocks wear out its like riding on a bowl of jelly. Former 63 owner.
Great job so far. one niggle - I'm sad that you didn't try preserve the original Dunlop brake servo face plate - mine was painted an odd color but it was quite dark and I feel the silver looks out of place.
Really enjoying this series, Richard (ditto the XK150), thank you. Quick question: are you reassembling the threads dry or do you use any anti-seize products? Interested in your thoughts. Thx
Great Stuff, could the V have been a 7, 6 on one side 7 on the other?
If it was a 7 it would probably have had a slash through it, but it's just a thought.
All that nice work, and then you give up on the fuel tank - that could be cleaned with ease - no problem -
Several methods to do it.
I understand that those old fuel tanks are a pain in the posterior to clean up what with all the baffles limiting access. But that original Lucas fuel pump is pretty simple and likely wouldn't take much to clean up. Mine looked worse when I rebuilt it and it's never let me down. Likewise, those brake master cylinders are a simple rebuild to as good as new with a seal kit for just a few dollars and are sooo visible in that engine compartment. By all means save those original components for the next owner. Original parts are getting pretty thin on the ground!
Never seen bellows type servo before
I noticed you installed the ball joints dry on the tapered contact. I have been applying anti seize to make removal much easier. Not factory, I know, but I hate beating on my old Jaguar parts.. anyone care to comment?
Nothing goes between tapered pressed components, and they should be checked for fit everytime.
@3:00 "...kind of the new, rat-rod style...restoration...". exactly, and it will eventually go out of style (like semi-gloss paint), once people have had their fill of looking at rusted bumpers and blistering paint. :)
Why are the spark plugs painted gold?
@Graham Wow, amazing that they would skimp on proper masking just to save a few minutes of labor! They must have been hard up for cash indeed.
It's likely a previous owner "freshened" the gold head paint at some point. Pretty unlikely those plugs are original and even more unlikely jaguar would deliver a brand new car looking like that.
@@cratecruncher6687 I was born in 1961 and in my teens was constantly changing spark plugs, they were not long-life items like today.
@@1maico1 Add to that the ease with which one can change plugs on an XK engine. It's literally a five minute job. Try doing that on your Corvette.
I bought a 1963 convertible out of a junkyard as a kid for 1800 bucks...I did a frame off on it and sold it for 20k ...I had I known 35 years later the would be worth what they are now?...
Why is the waxy substance,, which kept surfaces rust free for sixty years, being removed? I understand the aesthetic improvement, but why sacrifice originality when it did its job so well?
Kudos to you Richard... You follow the fewer, but well constructed video approach. These are really terrific quality. The content speaks for itself!
Upspeak.
I hear endless jokes about Lucas electrics but I can tell you now that if you can find original N.O.S Lucas parts they are 10 times better than the pure junk being peddled in Lucas boxes nowadays.
1st step to any British car you want to use on a regular basis - replace everything Lucas / Lucas Electric with something better
Wish you would use gloves when touching cadmium, that stuff is super toxic
Stopped using that over here 30 years ago, it's carcinogenic.
Richard I have total respect for what you do , BUT not replacing the wiring harnesses IMHO is a grave mistake, YES I KNOW I have said it before but there is no way you can see the harness deterioration inside the loom and this can could burst into flames, because you kept the almost 60 year old wires, they are original, the whole car could be lost for a few hundred dollars, I know because this has happened, it's not worth it.
I know you disagree with me but I hope I am wrong as another classic will be lost, you are not restoring a harness you are hoping all is OK, lets hope I am wrong.
@Graham on the bits he can see but unless completely unwrapped and re-wrapped you never know whats lurking inside, unfortunately I have seen the result of using an old harness first hand not pretty. But of course this is not my project.
Dear Sir. I owned two of these cars. A 4.2litre fixed head and a 3.8 drop head. I'm British and a huge E-Type fanatic. The paint is like the makeup on a woman's face. You wouldn't be taking anything away from this car if you took it back and removed the rust on the body and repainted it in the same original colour. Afterall the way this car was used,maintained and stored has nothing to do with the factory. Why not bring it back to original condition. You stand a chance of giving it a further 60 years or more.
Hey Tim, just like I said at the end of the series: you can strip this original car down and restore it better than new, but then it's no different from the showpieces churned out by CMC, Woodham Mortimer, Classic Showcase, Team CJ.. Right now it stands alone as the sole original paint original interior '62 Coupe.
Ahhh Lucas the prince of darkness 😂 but reproduction is never as good as original part quality for sure