I was quoted 700 for this job, 600 wihtout an AC service....pretty sure the shop is a bunch of idiots. Under the hood there are two hoses to the heater core, remove one from the engine, and one from the core hose. Take the one that is still on the engine and connect it back to the engine so it closes the system, so one is on the engine to engine and 1 is still on the firewall connection. By doing this, you can start the engine and press the brake down using booster pressure without removing anything from the brake pedal. install core, reconnect the firewall hoses. and done.
Looks like for 3rd gen, 1996-2000, like my 96 Voyager. Came here just to see if there are hoses inside the cabin to the heater core. I recall my 2002 T&C has such hoses, but a long time since I changed that heater core. Wondered about hoses since my heater core keeps plugging up with small black stuff which isn't ferrous so wondered if a hose is internally shedding rubber bits. Blow it clear w/ air, using engine side hoses and works a while then blocked again (can feel resistance w/ air until it stuff pops free). All other hoses I changed to silicone, except 2 radiator hoses. Also the radiator got plugged to overheat at idle so swapped in a new one, plus put a screen in upper hose to catch debris. Solids might be from having used "extended life" coolant long ago, also known as Dexcool = Death Cool which apparently reacts with other coolant. Even pulled the block drain to flush out stuff. Anyway, no hoses in the cabin, so I'll keep blowing out the heater core until it flows free. BTW, still on the OE heater core. Though it was leaking once since water on the carpet, but turned out clear condensate due to the drain thru the firewall getting plugged, or a stuck check-valve. Felt something resist when I pushed a stiff wire up the drain, then 1/2 gal of clear water poured out.
@@Richard-eg4ms I don't think it matters since the heater core is just fixed open tubes with no valves, indeed I don't think any valves in the whole heater loop (unlike 1970's cars w/ AC). If concerned about which way to blow out the heater core from the engine bay side, I think you can trace the heater hoses to tell, or refer to a shop manual for flow directions. But you should disconnect both hoses in the engine bay and blow both ways, with air or water from a garden hose. Be careful since the heater core might be rated for only 30 psig line pressure, whereas a garden hose can be 60 psig and shop air even higher pressure.
Update. I found the dark particles in my 1996 were produced from using "Extended Life" coolant (i.e. orange Dex-cool type). I didn't know it can only be used in cars designed for it, otherwise it reacts with oxygen in the air to form solids. Why wags term it "Death Cool". Apparently a myth that it reacts with leftover green coolant in the system.
thank you, its a gritty one, but its helpful L! It makes me want to host one hit wonders, Like in this spirit, post even other's' (',', questionable in my book L!) videos who are not "RUclipsrs", on vehicle spefff taskz,,,,, Like like LIKE I try to mainly show how to figure it out less "this vehicle do this"... but its also helpfull like here being the least of examples! SO, SEND ME YOUR REPAIRS AND I WILL EDIT AND GIVE YOU CREDIT???!!!
@@efraingutierrez9539 any autoparts store or amazon, Nowdays people just slap their name on parts made in the same factories, so just try to find one made anywhere but china,made in china means cheap crap made on slave labor, so nobody cares about doing a good job lol their communist, they get paid either way , no matter what they do or if they do it well.... food for thought, but even if you dont care about that, their parts fail...
Question Eric I have a 06 town and country my heater will only blow hot air for a minute or so before I have to turn it off cause it will start blowing cold air. I was told low coolant would do that so I bought peak coolant cause that's what Chrysler recommends so I filled up the overflow resevoir and still cold air after only 1min of heat . I also checked the inlet and outlet valves on the fire wall only one of the hoses are hot to the touch also I noticed that their is still the same amount of coolant in the over flow reservoir almost like their is none being moved out of the over flow reservoir? Any ideas broths man
@@scroogehowsshehandle take off your radiator cap and check the coolant level in the radiator, it should be full up to the top of the narrow portion of the tube before it widens out where the cap sits. if you have a clog it may not pull from the reservoir like it should. If that is not the source of your problem then your water pump may have failed.
I own a 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport. With what I saw on your video, will it be the same? Thinking my heater core just started leaking. Would like to see if this is the case first before I replace it.
the rug will be wet. you'll see it dripping out the plastic case, if its not obvious, pressure tester is like 20$ on amazon or auto zone will lend you one.
@@TEN-TIMES-HARDER Got the heater core in with no problem, thank you. Now I hacve a problem. hooked the heater core up. wanted to test the heating, the van will not start. No Radio, no electric windows. the chimne does not even work like when the key is in the ignotion. Would a bad starter switchj cause that? or is there something else?
@@tomwinstanley6021 Bumped something? Get a multimeter and start at the underhood fuse/relay box checking voltage supply and go down the schematic. Most likely, you unplugged that main connector harness he shows.
@@TEN-TIMES-HARDER my 2005 the core doesnt tilt below the steering shaft. it wants to slide straight out of its housing and smacks the shaft. i also had no issues with the electrical bulkhead. looks like they redesigned the housing at some point past 2003.
A 2005 is Gen 4 (2001-2007). This is Gen 3 (1996-2000). Replaced the heater core in my 2002 T&C years ago. I unbolted the steering shaft. Wasn't too hard. Don't recall having to disconnect the brake pedal, but perhaps did. I don't recall removing any panels, just a cover over the heater core. I recall sliding the heater core out first, with rubber hoses connected (inside cabin), but don't quote me. Could have been solid tubes like in this Gen 3 and I forgot.
Koo sir going to do mine now. Plus change the two hoses that run through the engine bay. TY
Would you please share the year of caravan in your title to save people time? Thank you.
Thanks, I been dreading this job, can’t run the heater because smells like nasty antifreeze.
Now I’ll take a chance at it.
Happy new year
oh hell yeah get her done
Excellent, thank you!! Just did this on 98 Chrysler Voyager. Cheers from Germany
Skol!
I was quoted 700 for this job, 600 wihtout an AC service....pretty sure the shop is a bunch of idiots. Under the hood there are two hoses to the heater core, remove one from the engine, and one from the core hose. Take the one that is still on the engine and connect it back to the engine so it closes the system, so one is on the engine to engine and 1 is still on the firewall connection. By doing this, you can start the engine and press the brake down using booster pressure without removing anything from the brake pedal. install core, reconnect the firewall hoses. and done.
i did that for 50$ an got a 50$ tip, remember, 50$ cash = an hour regular shop time....
Thank you for posting this.
I also have a shop manual but a lot of times the "correct" procedure adds a lot of unnecessary steps.
yeah, the days of getting ahead of book time and actually making an honest living have slipped away lol
Great video, i'm gonna go out to the shop and give it a shot.
how'd it go!
Would this be the same for my 2004 dodge caravan?
Looks like for 3rd gen, 1996-2000, like my 96 Voyager. Came here just to see if there are hoses inside the cabin to the heater core. I recall my 2002 T&C has such hoses, but a long time since I changed that heater core. Wondered about hoses since my heater core keeps plugging up with small black stuff which isn't ferrous so wondered if a hose is internally shedding rubber bits. Blow it clear w/ air, using engine side hoses and works a while then blocked again (can feel resistance w/ air until it stuff pops free). All other hoses I changed to silicone, except 2 radiator hoses. Also the radiator got plugged to overheat at idle so swapped in a new one, plus put a screen in upper hose to catch debris. Solids might be from having used "extended life" coolant long ago, also known as Dexcool = Death Cool which apparently reacts with other coolant. Even pulled the block drain to flush out stuff. Anyway, no hoses in the cabin, so I'll keep blowing out the heater core until it flows free. BTW, still on the OE heater core. Though it was leaking once since water on the carpet, but turned out clear condensate due to the drain thru the firewall getting plugged, or a stuck check-valve. Felt something resist when I pushed a stiff wire up the drain, then 1/2 gal of clear water poured out.
back flush it, just un hook the inlet hose under the hood, then hook a garden hose tonthe outlet, flush tje core...0
How would you know the inlet from the outlet?
@@Richard-eg4ms I don't think it matters since the heater core is just fixed open tubes with no valves, indeed I don't think any valves in the whole heater loop (unlike 1970's cars w/ AC). If concerned about which way to blow out the heater core from the engine bay side, I think you can trace the heater hoses to tell, or refer to a shop manual for flow directions. But you should disconnect both hoses in the engine bay and blow both ways, with air or water from a garden hose. Be careful since the heater core might be rated for only 30 psig line pressure, whereas a garden hose can be 60 psig and shop air even higher pressure.
Update. I found the dark particles in my 1996 were produced from using "Extended Life" coolant (i.e. orange Dex-cool type). I didn't know it can only be used in cars designed for it, otherwise it reacts with oxygen in the air to form solids. Why wags term it "Death Cool". Apparently a myth that it reacts with leftover green coolant in the system.
Awesome Pal.
Very good video
thank you, its a gritty one, but its helpful L! It makes me want to host one hit wonders, Like in this spirit, post even other's' (',', questionable in my book L!) videos who are not "RUclipsrs", on vehicle spefff taskz,,,,, Like like LIKE I try to mainly show how to figure it out less "this vehicle do this"... but its also helpfull like here being the least of examples! SO, SEND ME YOUR REPAIRS AND I WILL EDIT AND GIVE YOU CREDIT???!!!
Thanks buddy u are a life saver
:)
Thanks brother outstanding video gonna save me lots of time.peace
back in the day outsmarting the book was the only way to not loose your ass
Very nicely doen!
danks
It would be nice to know what year or year range that you are working on
59-80
I need to do this, but I'm not sure what tool you are using that you say don't tighten it to tight because it's plastic. Thank u for showing this
10 mil socket driver
Hi where you find good heater core thanks good job
@@efraingutierrez9539 any autoparts store or amazon, Nowdays people just slap their name on parts made in the same factories, so just try to find one made anywhere but china,made in china means cheap crap made on slave labor, so nobody cares about doing a good job lol their communist, they get paid either way , no matter what they do or if they do it well.... food for thought, but even if you dont care about that, their parts fail...
Question Eric I have a 06 town and country my heater will only blow hot air for a minute or so before I have to turn it off cause it will start blowing cold air. I was told low coolant would do that so I bought peak coolant cause that's what Chrysler recommends so I filled up the overflow resevoir and still cold air after only 1min of heat . I also checked the inlet and outlet valves on the fire wall only one of the hoses are hot to the touch also I noticed that their is still the same amount of coolant in the over flow reservoir almost like their is none being moved out of the over flow reservoir? Any ideas broths man
@@scroogehowsshehandle take off your radiator cap and check the coolant level in the radiator, it should be full up to the top of the narrow portion of the tube before it widens out where the cap sits. if you have a clog it may not pull from the reservoir like it should. If that is not the source of your problem then your water pump may have failed.
I own a 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport. With what I saw on your video, will it be the same? Thinking my heater core just started leaking. Would like to see if this is the case first before I replace it.
the rug will be wet. you'll see it dripping out the plastic case, if its not obvious, pressure tester is like 20$ on amazon or auto zone will lend you one.
Can literally hear you scraping the 💩 out of that thing 😂
not a sungle fin bent and its scraping gainst the bondo knife
Im currently working on my 05 Caravan and im finding its not coming past my steering shaft. my shaft asembly is different than yours.
i disconnect the u joint
or was it the 4 bokts that hokd the colum to yhe dash
I disconnected the steering shaft in my 2002.
about 50 to 100 depending on quality of part
@Taylor Malik actually this an issue, so how do we hack instagram accounts to share my videos!!!
will this also work on a 2000 dodge caravan?
yes you got this bro
@@TEN-TIMES-HARDER Got the heater core in with no problem, thank you. Now I hacve a problem. hooked the heater core up. wanted to test the heating, the van will not start. No Radio, no electric windows. the chimne does not even work like when the key is in the ignotion. Would a bad starter switchj cause that? or is there something else?
@@tomwinstanley6021 Bumped something? Get a multimeter and start at the underhood fuse/relay box checking voltage supply and go down the schematic. Most likely, you unplugged that main connector harness he shows.
as well check your main fuse or link you might have shorted somethjng...
99 town country
yup!
@@TEN-TIMES-HARDER
What year is the van?
1996 to 2000
66
Do you know if this works on a dodge caravan 2005?
Should be the same car
@@TEN-TIMES-HARDER my 2005 the core doesnt tilt below the steering shaft. it wants to slide straight out of its housing and smacks the shaft. i also had no issues with the electrical bulkhead. looks like they redesigned the housing at some point past 2003.
ok, because they say to remove the shaft on this one too, but i wiggled it out a different way
A 2005 is Gen 4 (2001-2007). This is Gen 3 (1996-2000). Replaced the heater core in my 2002 T&C years ago. I unbolted the steering shaft. Wasn't too hard. Don't recall having to disconnect the brake pedal, but perhaps did. I don't recall removing any panels, just a cover over the heater core. I recall sliding the heater core out first, with rubber hoses connected (inside cabin), but don't quote me. Could have been solid tubes like in this Gen 3 and I forgot.
Cost?
about tree fiddy
less than a new vamm
No I only get up here I said I don't like that option at all I was yawning
get on up!
just voided that warranty
if an 02-07 grand caravan still has a warranty then you should not have answered that phone call...your warranty was long expired
into the void!