Power Bank Broken USB PORT REPAIR - Tea Break Fix
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- A quick simple video showing a repair on 2 broken USB ports on a Power bank. Well work fixing and quite satisfying.
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Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things. I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things, so I hope that comes across in this 'Trying to FIX' series. Many thanks, Vince. 
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I remeber when Vince Made the first couple videos and now seeing him, he has come far. Keep the videos up I love watching the tea break repairs
AFAIK, the extra pins on USB3 are data only. A power bank wouldn't need them. A very nice fix!
Not USB 3 - It's USB 2 - One of the ports operate on the QuickCharge 3 standard outputting 3 3.8V-12V/max.18W, The other is regular USB 5V 2.1A. The DC power jack is dual direction (You can charge the power bank here) and operates on 12V/15V/16,5V/19V/20V/24V 50 Watt continuous / max.65W.
I would link to the manual, but the comment keeps getting deleted. 😞
Excellent and easy fix for something that can be used for along time! Need more tea now, 11 minutes wasn't long enough!
I'm sure you'll find another one Vince has plenty of videos
Hi Vince, great content. Merry Christmas to all.
Hi Vince
One of our customers came in with his car,,, faulty battery.
He bought a new one, plus went on to Ebay and bought one of these lithium car battery jump packs,,,, just in case he was ever stuck again,,,
He charged it up and put it in his glove box but never needed to use it.
It was in the glove box, forgotten and unused for around a year.
When he was driving on the M25 when a loud hissing noise and a load of smoke came out of the glove box.
The power pack had gone below it's minimum charge, puffed up and vented, luckily it didn't catch fire straight away, when it was thrown out the window, it burst into flames a few minutes later.
So a little warning about lithium, keep them charged.
Nice and early upload for me waking up here in New Zealand. Love waking up too your awesome videos!
I don't comment much but I've been a subscriber of your channel since you were doing all your telephone cable videos. Love to see how far youve come with your electronics diagnostics and soldering skills. Lovely little fix this and looking forward to more content next year including the Roller series. All the best for xmas and the new year to you and your family Vince!
I remember when you used to make videos about how to connect whatever to whatever and you showing all the adapters needed to do that set thing and now your videos of fixing things are quite good.
8:51 - While you are there, you can push on that outer metal casing for USB, in V shape. It holds tighter USB once inserted.
I am always waiting for your videos, Vince :)
However, this video still did not convince my engineer friend of mine to stop using unleaded solder, even after seeing those cold solder joints and loose pins.
I remember when Philips TV's started using it. Dry joints everywhere! I've always used leaded, that other stuff is horrible!
Thanks Vince brilliant quick fix saves it going down the tip you’ve come along way 😊
Nice video. And smooth short fixing there!. Enjoying these short fixes more than the long ones. Aing tlying mate
nice fix. Even something so simple could result in this finding its way to the bottom drawer and then the local tip
Great job =D Regards the "hidden pins" - charge ports dont need them as far as I understand. Litterally just the same 4 pins that USB 2.0 and less used. And in actual fact, you will probably find the middle two pins do nothing there. It's probably just the +ve and gnd connection used.
Yes, they use 2.0 and 1.0 connectors, the cheapest they can find, data transmission is very basic in fast charging protocols and null in normal charging (some resistors and a voltage present) so they don't need more.
You still need to either short the data pins together to signal 5V 1A capability, use correct resistors to signal higher charging capacity or proper data connections to negotiate higher voltage and such (QC protocol mentioned). If you leave the data pins unconnected, the device (should) treat it as potentially faulty cable and only allow 5V 0.5A.
there are no hidden pins. It's USB 2 - One is operated with QC3 standard, and one is 5V 2.1A
i don't fix yet...show me.i love your videos
Nice one again Vince, it's the little things that makes it special 😉
good fix Vince. I'm amazed your usb tester is still going I've had two of those models. and both times it's been the same fault as what you had on your power bank.
I do love me some tea break fixes 😊❤
What a nice personal item to be fixed sir!!❤
Those black plastic USB connecor parts have security tabs on the back of the metal housing of the ports. You should not forget to push them in to lock those black plastic pieces.
I love how they just put some packing tape on top of the USB ports to prevent the screen from shorting against them.
Why i feel you are using your old cam to record this video, btw awesome as always!
Superb repair, thank you Vince.
Nice simple fixes like this are my favourite - We need to get you a microscope with hdmi or usb out so you can record what you are doing but not be blocked by the camera. I have a 10.1" one thats fantastic and outputs HDMI.
Nice job vince i'd want to save a power bank like that too
WELL DONE VINCE!
Great Job Vince. Nice easy repair that one! 👍👍👍 pity about the clips, but I'm sure it will be fine.
5:24 I'm assuming since these USB ports are only providing power the other (data) lines aren't needed.
5:58 I think you should've put the soldering iron tip directly on to the pin and pushed down, then applied the solder to the pin and pad to make a good solid solder joint.
Yes the data pins aren’t used, but to give the usb port some strength.
@@Abh_92 The data pins are vital to the function of the charging. They are the ones that signal the voltage and amps to charge with.
@@eidodk Nice to know, I thought that feature is only in the USB-C “Power Delivery”
@@Abh_92 It's part of the QuickCharge 3.0 standard.
Nice tea break! Perfect for a Friday.
Well done good job
Good job mate 👍
Hi Vince, love the vids! My son has a DualSense controller with a broken USB connector. I’ve contacted a couple of repair shops but they don’t seem to keen. Do you fancy trying to repair it in one of your future vids?
Hi Vince, I slipped and fell and dislocated my shoulder. If I send you the X-rays could you take a look to see if you can fix it?
Yes he will pull out his drill and help you out.
@@digi3218 LOL
Merry Christmas
My power bank has one broken port and the port feels loose so likely the same problem. Like yours it's clipped together which would make getting it apart a pain.
Excellent! Love these quick fixes.
I've had the same fix on a charging port from a Nintendo DSi... thought the charging port needed replacement, but all it needed was a reflow on its pins
Lead free solder strikes again....
Yep, awful stuff..
Nice fix, in less time than it took for me to drink my tea!
USB 3.0 has 9 pins and is usually colored blue. There is no point in having additional 5 pins anyway, as those are for data transfer only, so would be useless in a powerbank.
It might not be a bad idea to have some thick rubber pushing down on the USB connectors itself againstthe cover.
Nice one.
Great work.
Now, I have very little realworld experience with soldering, but it seemed to me that there was very little solder on the pads from the factory.
I mean, the pins were basically just on top of the sodler, not in it.
Agree, even when Vince was re-soldering it, solder didn't seem to stick to the legs on the USB sockets very well I noticed.
Are you still able to buy same type of power bank with variable voltage output?
Since it is just a charger maybe not all pins need to be soldered / present?
nice quick fix :)
I had that same issue with one of my anker powerbank but only one port requires wiggling
Are you using let three.
Can you design your own circuits
My e-bike battery has the same problem. I am leery to take it apart as it is a big boy 1kw/hr
Perfect tea break fix :)
buy some guitar picks for open plastic housings please :D
That isn't USB 3, Its just a regular USB A socket, USB 3 is only useful for data transfer and not power delivery, all the conductors on USB 3 are on the same side as well in two rows, 5 at the back and 4 at the front.
I don't think they will be USB 3.0 ports as the extra pins are for data so just for power they wouldn't be needed
wooot love this content great vid vince :D
I was first but everyone jumped the queue 😢
I think 7:50 Vince, It might just be secure lol...
For a good power bank, how did the USB connections so miserably fail? I think that's a brand I will definitely avoid!
As this is a power bank , maybe you wouldn’t have additional pins as no data is present here. Just QC 2.0 etc.
You use the data pins to signal the amount of volt and amps to charge with
Plus you now know you can change the lithium batteries out if it fails to hold a charge in the future
lovely job :)
lead free solder is brittle so breaks easily
I love you
You really should discharge batteries / powernbanks before you open them!
Nice 😃
There's no need for USB 3.0 in power banks, so it's USB 2.0 with 4 pins. Why did you decide that there USB 3.0?
At the moment but i think usb 3 will be the go to for most as devices require more and more power and with 3.0 having power management its better option most i dont think are using it down to cost
@@Tim_3100 1:50 no additional pins, only 4. During charging, only USB 2.0 contacts are always used according to the standard.
This is the answer. Seems USB 3 introduces 5 additional pins none of which are power. Maybe the power bank is like that just to make a good fit for charging cables that have a USB 3 connector (never seen one but maybe some devices have a combined cable for charging and data transfer with a non-standard connector on other end, forcing to use the cable).
It's probably a misstatement.. One of the ports on that powerbank operates on the QuickCharge 3.0 standard up to 18w max, the other is standard usb 2 - 5v 2.1A
hi those are not usb 3 sockets because usb 3 has 5 pins at the end of the connector and the extra pins would serve no purpose for a charger
Power. Bank. Broken USB. Port. Repair. Tea. Break fix
at 8:50, I agree, should be working (My drunken commentary peeps)!!
What's model on powerbank ?
It's a XT-16000QC3-PA - i know this because during the course of the video, it's shown that it has 6 2600mh batteries in it for a total power of 15600ma
How much did you pay for it ?
5:27 Those are just regular USB 2.0 port. USB 3 wouldn't make sense in a power bank
They make everything with clips couse its cheaper and for items to not be as well closed when they are fixed, is just another example of planned obsolescence, anyway those solder joints from factory were garbage, planned obsolescence as well, if it breaks sooner people will buy new products sooner, i dont understand why a expensive product can have plastic clips and those trash solder joints...
Can we get a new MacBook trying to fix video ??❤
the usb 3.0 specification must have been a joke. clearly just a usb 2.0 port.
It says USB2 right on the board, so mystery solved there
Vince I miss the joystick Xbox ps4 switch fixes please bring them back
@5:47 Just as you should with your pants or your trousers. However, make sure you put your socks on after (under)pants, because socks before pants makes a man look a bit scary, like a chicken.
looking inside makes me think old laptop battery's could be repurposed too power banks?? gl
No reason why not. I've used a few 18650's from them before, and from some Milwaukee tool batteries as well. A lot of power tools use 18650's too. You can get some small PCB's that will do USB charging and over-discharge protection. In fact I used one, and some re-purposed 18650's, in a miners lamp video I did a couple of months back if you wan't to see how to do it.
Omg it’s not usb 3!
I don't think any of those ports are USB 3, no point of USB 3 on such powerbank.
I think i would have done the anchor points , they are what give the ports strength . It looked like the board was taking a lot of heat away from the pins , might have needed a higher temp setting .
And just for that my power has just gone 😂😂, bloody Russians 😡😡
I wish these power banks were easier to take apart … the QC and PD protocol is over the USB 2.0 data pins - these USB ports don’t seem to be of the 3.0 type as your charging cable is a normal one too