I was instructing a student a few years ago in a Boss 302 and the nannies were acting up. The car would randomly try to steering correct when it wasn't necessary and almost caused me to spin. Turns out there was a bad ground connection that was causing the issue. So definitely check all your ground connections. Best of luck
I think Eric is on the right track. I know a 2019 350 that has had the vct wiring harness replaced several times causing a random misfire. On the "dyno mode" plug, it's my understanding that disabled all TC, ABS, and changes the bias to basically no rear brakes (Eric can probably confirm). I tried that "mode" a few times on a small track and it felt like the car rotated better🤷🏼♂️
I have forscan, works well as long as you use the right OBD port adapter. Millions of knockoffs out there that will give you issues. Figured this out first-hand.
The power of ForSCAN is really in the changing the configuration of modules to add/change features. There is a diagnostic side of things that allows you to look at sensor data and graph it similar to the AIM software. I am not sure if wheel speed will be a PID available in ForSCAN but you should be able to look at custom PIDs so you can grab the PID from AIM and punch it into ForSCAN.
@@ajhartmanaero parameter id, I used FORSCAN to add auto headlights to my super duty, change the number blinks on tap of the turn signal, all stuff like that. You have to use the laptop variant to change configs though.
Honestly, IMHO, that AIM software looks far more capable than what FORSCAN provides. Also, it's a bit hit-or-miss on how successfully you will be while programming a module. For example, I was able to enable the remote power locks on a 2010 Crown Vic Police Interceptor, but I was unable to disable something (can't remember what) on an older car. Of course, this being a newer Mustang, it might be easier to get information on what PIDs are updatable via FORSCAN. Good luck, love the content!
@@ajhartmanaero I use FORScan it works well, able to read the ABS codes and reset. Also you may want to do a compression test as well as if the plugs dont fix the misfire. Was the clutch out of the car recently?
@@EricRock14 Since the misfire was random, I don't think its compression cause that would be there constantly but wouldn't hurt. And yes, trans and clutch were out when TJ pulled the oil pan to look at the bearings after the previous owners incident.
I had a similar issue with my GT350 misfiring. I was getting the same codes- the car didn't sound normal, but it would rev freely. I took it to Ford and they spent about two days diagnosing the issue. Turns out one of the connectors came loose and they were able to solve the issue by replacing the pins. I was also having a problem with my a/c cutting out which was solved by replacing the pins. Thankfully I didn't have an issue with stability control, traction control or ABS. Seems super sketchy. These cars are really tough, but also sensitive and finicky in some areas. I suspect I may have accidentally sprayed the front end with my power washer at some point and knocked something loose. Keep in mind the Voodoo engine generates a ton of NVH compared to other engines Ford produces so connections may vibrate themselves out of sync especially if driven hard.
Regarding the random misfire, it would be best to sccan the misfire counters and see if its related to a single cylinder or a cylinder and its paired cylinder first. If its a single cylinder, start working the diag flow chart to identify whats causing it. If its all cylinders dropping out randomly, Id start looking at the PCM, the engine harness and any issues with intermittent loss of power to the coils or injectors back at the fuse panel. A quick thing to also check is if the cranksensor has anything stuck to it. The crank sensor reads off a reluctor behind the flywheel and can be pulled out by just removing a bolt behind the intake manifold. Ive seen a few get metal shavings on them and read wonking. I would get a ForScan or if you have HPtuners for this car, use the scanner tool. The ForScan will help you diag the ABS issues as well as the engine and are basically required tools for a lot of repairs nowadays.
Great channel man. So a couple things I have experienced. One, in Track mode it will say that TC is off but I have confirmed with FP that its still secretly protecting you on the longer corners with a small rear slip it will feel like you are having power loss. You have to turn to track mode and then toggle the TC switch too to be truly off. I confirmed with some parking lot testing. Your issue acts like it's triggering when it's not supposed to? It won't be easy at a dealership because they often to the very least on troubleshooting but I would see if they can diagnose your advanced track. Maybe a wheel sensor?
@@ajhartmanaero make sure you put in in track mode, then hold the brake and traction control off button for 7 seconds until it says "advance track off"
Not sure if it will be worth it. But buying a full diag computer like a launch always helps. I use it for work but always bring it to races. They're about 1200
Back in my back yard again, i tried driving a 2017 once and that damn thing drove me insane with stability and traction control. ABS wasnt too bad but to me thats just something else to cover up driver errors. Are you still running the same stock engine and turbos you first installed years ago in your track car?
if Nanny systems intervene too early it could mean your hardware is not correctly spec-ed or set up. 7:30 looks to me like the car wants to oversteer way too easy. I don't think the speed was excessive. The car should have made that (cresty-offcamber?) curve at that speed. I'd try to soften up the rear s/bar or just try to remove or disconnect the droplinks , then try a lap and see what happens. You'll have less oversteer and better traction coming out of curves because the inner rear wheel will not have the tendency to be lifted up off the track while rounding a curve. If it's still too snappy and oversteery try softer springs in the back as well. When your hardware is set up correctly the nannies will intervene way later. Needless to say you can also play with tire pressures camber/toe settings (if adjustable) in the rear. Or rear downforce from the wing. As for ABS: if you tires (specially slicks!) are still cold ABS will intervene way earlier. Tires warm? waaayyy later ABS intervention. Because your mechnical grip from the tires is so much better when they are warm. It's a question of understanding the interaction between those nanny systems and the hardware of the car. You'll learn to work with them.
Did a video on it. Short story, previous owner lightly hit a wall and cracked oil cooler line and drove back to pits with zero oil pressure. So car was written for some body panels as well as an entire engine. ruclips.net/video/amQsQmxYtM0/видео.html
Yeah thought that may have been it but was only in pit lane less than a minute and tire pressures on my aim showed they hardly cooled off coupled with being much slower than other laps, I think tire temp causing the spin is a stretch.
I haven't taken mine to the track yet but just did the ""GT350 Track Attack" Ford Performance's racing school event at Charlotte. Even though the lead / follow sessions were very limiting on speed one thing became very clear to me: The car needs / deserves a good set of R compounds. The overall balance was really nice / the car was easy to catch but it really felt "under-tired" with the Michelin 4s street tires, even at the moderate speeds I had to abide by following the instructor. Assuming you exorcise the gremlins, I think you'll feel you're driving a different car once fitted with with decent track tires. I talked about it with the instructors at the end of the day and they said: Whole other animal / night and day difference. Although that's true with pretty much any car I think it's even more so with that much power / chassis capabilities. Also, you already know this but make triple sure the alignment is 'On point' , huge improvements to be made there as well if it wasn't quite right or too street oriented.
Looking at the data I think you spun because you were off the throttle too long. If you look at the red throttle trace you got back on it before you spun on the green. I feel like these newer mustang chassis are over sensitive to that.
Yeah that thought went through my head as well but still can't comprehend why the spin with all the G forces, both lat and long lower and speed was slower than having gone through the corner the previous laps. My decel slope was less steep, so less rear end unloading, and it still stepped out the rear while the car was about as neutral as you can get. Its a strange one for sure. I've rewatched that section of multiple laps going through there on other laps and still not 100% sure.
Ford’s traction control has always sucked balls. I’ve owned a 2008/2011/2015 GT500s, and now a 2020 GT350. TC was only good for rainy days on the street; otherwise, turn it off and put it in track mode. Also, the stock rear suspension on the GT350 is too soft. It gets “spooky” when on gas out of a turn.
I did a second track day video and I fixed the abs and traction control issue, as well as the misfire didn’t go away but was much less frequent, coupled with me getting used to the car compared to my full blown racecar, really started to enjoy it. It was just a culmination of issues my first time out with it that made me initially not like it.
That was not what I was referring to. When you put the car into track mode that will turn off a portion of the stability control. After you switch it into track mode use the traction control button and hold it up for five seconds and you should have a message in your display telling you that everything (Advance Track) is turned off.
@@Neal_S Ah. Yeah saw someone mention that as well. Again, another thing I didn't know that day at the track. I'm probably gonna do the plug cause I know I'd forget to hold the button every time I get in the car.
@@ajhartmanaero I would rather pull the plug rather than holding the TC button until AdvanceTrac turns off. I used to do it that way before but it would randomly turn back on for me during autocross sessions. If it turned on during a track day at higher speeds it would have been a recipe for disaster. Pull the plug and you won't have to worry about it turning back on randomly.
I was instructing a student a few years ago in a Boss 302 and the nannies were acting up. The car would randomly try to steering correct when it wasn't necessary and almost caused me to spin. Turns out there was a bad ground connection that was causing the issue. So definitely check all your ground connections. Best of luck
yeah this sounds very plausible
I think Eric is on the right track. I know a 2019 350 that has had the vct wiring harness replaced several times causing a random misfire. On the "dyno mode" plug, it's my understanding that disabled all TC, ABS, and changes the bias to basically no rear brakes (Eric can probably confirm). I tried that "mode" a few times on a small track and it felt like the car rotated better🤷🏼♂️
I have forscan, works well as long as you use the right OBD port adapter. Millions of knockoffs out there that will give you issues. Figured this out first-hand.
The power of ForSCAN is really in the changing the configuration of modules to add/change features. There is a diagnostic side of things that allows you to look at sensor data and graph it similar to the AIM software. I am not sure if wheel speed will be a PID available in ForSCAN but you should be able to look at custom PIDs so you can grab the PID from AIM and punch it into ForSCAN.
Remind me what’s PID again? And I was unaware you could change the configuration on stuff. I thought you could only look at everything.
@@ajhartmanaero parameter id, I used FORSCAN to add auto headlights to my super duty, change the number blinks on tap of the turn signal, all stuff like that. You have to use the laptop variant to change configs though.
Honestly, IMHO, that AIM software looks far more capable than what FORSCAN provides. Also, it's a bit hit-or-miss on how successfully you will be while programming a module. For example, I was able to enable the remote power locks on a 2010 Crown Vic Police Interceptor, but I was unable to disable something (can't remember what) on an older car. Of course, this being a newer Mustang, it might be easier to get information on what PIDs are updatable via FORSCAN. Good luck, love the content!
You can also Pull up your individual wheel speeds in AIM since you have the DL, You can see if a sensor is going bad by this.
did you watch the whole video?
@@ajhartmanaero Oops, Was skimming it quickly and missed that part.
@@EricRock14 What do you use to really look into the computer and modules on these? I'm thinking of FORScan to really see what everything is doing.
@@ajhartmanaero I use FORScan it works well, able to read the ABS codes and reset. Also you may want to do a compression test as well as if the plugs dont fix the misfire. Was the clutch out of the car recently?
@@EricRock14 Since the misfire was random, I don't think its compression cause that would be there constantly but wouldn't hurt. And yes, trans and clutch were out when TJ pulled the oil pan to look at the bearings after the previous owners incident.
I had a similar issue with my GT350 misfiring. I was getting the same codes- the car didn't sound normal, but it would rev freely. I took it to Ford and they spent about two days diagnosing the issue. Turns out one of the connectors came loose and they were able to solve the issue by replacing the pins. I was also having a problem with my a/c cutting out which was solved by replacing the pins. Thankfully I didn't have an issue with stability control, traction control or ABS. Seems super sketchy.
These cars are really tough, but also sensitive and finicky in some areas. I suspect I may have accidentally sprayed the front end with my power washer at some point and knocked something loose. Keep in mind the Voodoo engine generates a ton of NVH compared to other engines Ford produces so connections may vibrate themselves out of sync especially if driven hard.
Regarding the random misfire, it would be best to sccan the misfire counters and see if its related to a single cylinder or a cylinder and its paired cylinder first. If its a single cylinder, start working the diag flow chart to identify whats causing it. If its all cylinders dropping out randomly, Id start looking at the PCM, the engine harness and any issues with intermittent loss of power to the coils or injectors back at the fuse panel. A quick thing to also check is if the cranksensor has anything stuck to it. The crank sensor reads off a reluctor behind the flywheel and can be pulled out by just removing a bolt behind the intake manifold. Ive seen a few get metal shavings on them and read wonking. I would get a ForScan or if you have HPtuners for this car, use the scanner tool. The ForScan will help you diag the ABS issues as well as the engine and are basically required tools for a lot of repairs nowadays.
Great channel man. So a couple things I have experienced. One, in Track mode it will say that TC is off but I have confirmed with FP that its still secretly protecting you on the longer corners with a small rear slip it will feel like you are having power loss. You have to turn to track mode and then toggle the TC switch too to be truly off. I confirmed with some parking lot testing. Your issue acts like it's triggering when it's not supposed to? It won't be easy at a dealership because they often to the very least on troubleshooting but I would see if they can diagnose your advanced track. Maybe a wheel sensor?
No way this things going to a dealer. I’ll get it figured out.
@@ajhartmanaero good call
@@ajhartmanaero make sure you put in in track mode, then hold the brake and traction control off button for 7 seconds until it says "advance track off"
Not sure if it will be worth it. But buying a full diag computer like a launch always helps. I use it for work but always bring it to races. They're about 1200
Back in my back yard again, i tried driving a 2017 once and that damn thing drove me insane with stability and traction control. ABS wasnt too bad but to me thats just something else to cover up driver errors.
Are you still running the same stock engine and turbos you first installed years ago in your track car?
looking at your dash it looks like 2016? Is it a track pack car?! Tires are sport cup 2s? I heard a tire chirp?
Shite old street tires?
Great video! Quick question - since there's an issue with the traction control, wouldn't this still be covered under the factory warranty?
Car has a salvage title so not in my case.
Does the Aim pull Brake Pressure too on the S550 Mustang?
I was parked directly across from you all day in the white FRS and didn't realize it or I would have said hi. damn
I'll be there again. Signed up the the Chin even on Oct. 18th.
Salvage title? No wonder the car is acting up. Cause for electrical issues possibly.. How many miles? Who tuned it?
if Nanny systems intervene too early it could mean your hardware is not correctly spec-ed or set up.
7:30 looks to me like the car wants to oversteer way too easy. I don't think the speed was excessive. The car should have made that (cresty-offcamber?) curve at that speed.
I'd try to soften up the rear s/bar or just try to remove or disconnect the droplinks , then try a lap and see what happens. You'll have less oversteer and better traction coming out of curves because the inner rear wheel will not have the tendency to be lifted up off the track while rounding a curve. If it's still too snappy and oversteery try softer springs in the back as well.
When your hardware is set up correctly the nannies will intervene way later.
Needless to say you can also play with tire pressures camber/toe settings (if adjustable) in the rear. Or rear downforce from the wing.
As for ABS: if you tires (specially slicks!) are still cold ABS will intervene way earlier. Tires warm? waaayyy later ABS intervention. Because your mechnical grip from the tires is so much better when they are warm.
It's a question of understanding the interaction between those nanny systems and the hardware of the car. You'll learn to work with them.
Agree totally. The rear bar is full stiff so can soften that for sure.
What makes the car have a salvage title?
Did a video on it. Short story, previous owner lightly hit a wall and cracked oil cooler line and drove back to pits with zero oil pressure. So car was written for some body panels as well as an entire engine. ruclips.net/video/amQsQmxYtM0/видео.html
Tfts tires acted cold
Yeah thought that may have been it but was only in pit lane less than a minute and tire pressures on my aim showed they hardly cooled off coupled with being much slower than other laps, I think tire temp causing the spin is a stretch.
@@ajhartmanaero yeah something is wrong with your advanced track I believe. wheel sensors come to mind.
I haven't taken mine to the track yet but just did the ""GT350 Track Attack" Ford Performance's racing school event at Charlotte. Even though the lead / follow sessions were very limiting on speed one thing became very clear to me: The car needs / deserves a good set of R compounds. The overall balance was really nice / the car was easy to catch but it really felt "under-tired" with the Michelin 4s street tires, even at the moderate speeds I had to abide by following the instructor. Assuming you exorcise the gremlins, I think you'll feel you're driving a different car once fitted with with decent track tires. I talked about it with the instructors at the end of the day and they said: Whole other animal / night and day difference. Although that's true with pretty much any car I think it's even more so with that much power / chassis capabilities. Also, you already know this but make triple sure the alignment is 'On point' , huge improvements to be made there as well if it wasn't quite right or too street oriented.
Interesting.
Looking at the data I think you spun because you were off the throttle too long. If you look at the red throttle trace you got back on it before you spun on the green. I feel like these newer mustang chassis are over sensitive to that.
Yeah that thought went through my head as well but still can't comprehend why the spin with all the G forces, both lat and long lower and speed was slower than having gone through the corner the previous laps. My decel slope was less steep, so less rear end unloading, and it still stepped out the rear while the car was about as neutral as you can get. Its a strange one for sure. I've rewatched that section of multiple laps going through there on other laps and still not 100% sure.
BTW, keeps the vids coming. You've inspired me to try my hand at building CF aero and body parts for my car.
Ford’s traction control has always sucked balls. I’ve owned a 2008/2011/2015 GT500s, and now a 2020 GT350. TC was only good for rainy days on the street; otherwise, turn it off and put it in track mode. Also, the stock rear suspension on the GT350 is too soft. It gets “spooky” when on gas out of a turn.
This is the only video I've seen where someone doesn't like this car and I can see many issues with this one in particular
I did a second track day video and I fixed the abs and traction control issue, as well as the misfire didn’t go away but was much less frequent, coupled with me getting used to the car compared to my full blown racecar, really started to enjoy it. It was just a culmination of issues my first time out with it that made me initially not like it.
Excuse after Excuse...
Any more Excuses
I’m a racer. We always have a list of excuses.
The “nannies” can be completely turned off.
Yeah. I learned about the secret plug by the air filter that evening. I'll try that next time out.
That was not what I was referring to. When you put the car into track mode that will turn off a portion of the stability control. After you switch it into track mode use the traction control button and hold it up for five seconds and you should have a message in your display telling you that everything (Advance Track) is turned off.
@@Neal_S Ah. Yeah saw someone mention that as well. Again, another thing I didn't know that day at the track. I'm probably gonna do the plug cause I know I'd forget to hold the button every time I get in the car.
@@ajhartmanaero I would rather pull the plug rather than holding the TC button until AdvanceTrac turns off. I used to do it that way before but it would randomly turn back on for me during autocross sessions. If it turned on during a track day at higher speeds it would have been a recipe for disaster. Pull the plug and you won't have to worry about it turning back on randomly.