Solving the WORST Dust Collection Problem || Oneida Dust Deputy Overview, Installation, and Test
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2022
- In this video you'll see me install and test out the Oneida Dust Deputy cyclor separator! I have a cheap DIY lid separator that works okay, but I needed to upgrade - so Oneida was the answer!
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*Tools/products in this video (amazon affiliate)*
Oneida dust deputy cyclone separator: amzn.to/3SrKnjZ
Trash can lid separator components: amzn.to/3SHnpVE
Dust collector (cheaper at harbor freight): amzn.to/3SPdXzN
4" flex hose: amzn.to/3y8cI6F
Dust collector adaptor kit: amzn.to/3UVqW4w
44 gallon trash can: amzn.to/3C1KtHR
Dust mask: amzn.to/3e0idh6
Leaf blower: amzn.to/3LUZrnI
Dewalt jigsaw: amzn.to/3auNGSE
Dewalt drills: amzn.to/2O1O6ZI
Remote starter for dust collector: amzn.to/3RwZcjL
Grizzly 20” planer: amzn.to/3diqbSr
Wynn filters: wynnenv.com/woodworking-filters/
This was filmed with a GoPro Hero 8 Black and edited in iMovie. Thanks for watching! Be sure to subscribe and check out some of my other videos! Find me on Instagram (MMCC_Woodshop) for more of my work!
*DISCLAIMER* The following content is for entertainment purposes only. Woodworking and using power tools can be extremely dangerous if not done properly. YOU (the viewer) are fully responsible for understanding proper use of tools, as well as the safety features of each. I highly suggest reading the owners manual and/or watching how-to videos on the tools. I (MMCC_Woodshop) am not responsible nor liable for any injury, death, or handing of the tools you may use, nor do I assume to display the proper handing of as a demonstration. Please use extreme caution when working with any power tools. - Matt
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I posted a follow up video fixing some of the issues in this video - be sure to check it out!
ruclips.net/video/9HhDJqozDNg/видео.html
The best way to reinstall the lower bag is to use a few magnets to hold the bag in place while you get it into position and clamped up.
Yep, I have been using that method for years. Magnets are a great extra pair of hands in many places.
Such a great idea!
Came here to say this lol. A few different strength magnets in the shop are a life saver.
Excellent idea!
Thanks for a great video! I noticed it seems like you installed the ”Y” branch just before the intake to the cyclone backwards - the dust coming from what I believe is your miter saw will have to make a very sharp u-turn. If you turn it the other way, it’ll work a lot better. Cheers!
came here to say that.. the wye (near the blast gate) is wrong
In a system like this, it doesn't really matter. These systems are so lightly loaded that the geometry is superfluous. When you calculate or measure the pressure drop or loading, ft3/lb, there's almost nothing you can do within reason to harm the system's performance as long as the velocity of the air is around the 3000 ft/min.
Thanks for pointing that out.. Will get that fixed in the next video!
@@michaelpatrick6950 The typical DC will produce roughly 400 cfm. In a 4" duct, that's 4600 velocity, or 1.3" velocity pressure. The loss coefficient of a backwards Y fitting can easily exceed 0.5, or about 0.65" loss in total pressure. Since the fan operates at roughly 3~4", 0.65" loss can reduce air flow by 20% or so. In turn, this reduces capture velocity at the tool. While the above estimation is subject to a lot of system-specific considerations, it does show that poor fitting choice (short v. long radius ells for example) can reduce system effectiveness. I started designing fans and duct systems in 1972.
Enjoy your videos, I also installed the super dust deputy on my separator and I am very pleased with it
Nice! I know I’m looking forward to changing the bag less often! 😆
I keep four small disc magnets stuck to the collector and use them to hold the bag in place while I install the clamp. Works like a charm! I install the same magnets onto all my push bars and just stick them to my table saw table so they’re always within reach.
That is a GREAT idea! Wish I would've thought of that earlier!
Yes, great idea on both the bag installation & the push bars. I have several strong 1”X2” magnets around my shop. 2 pac, Harbor Freight $1. Thanks
I’m currently trying to design a system for my shop to do exactly what you’re showing so this comes in a timely manner. Thanks for the ideas.
Thanks for watching and the feedback! 👍🏻
I liked this video, loved all the safety gear you wore!
Thanks! Can't be too safe!
Nice video. For the grounding, pvc is a good insulator. Which means that you will have static electricity on the inside and outside the pvc pipe.
Thanks for the input Peter! Makes sense to me!
Thanks for the idea about the leaf blower. Don’t have space to do it outside but I did it with the collection bag still attached and a ton came off.
Nice! Glad it worked that way as well
Thanks for the awesome video. Shooting over to checkout the follow up video now!
Awesome, thanks for watching and the feedback 👍🏻
Nice wood. I'd love to get some of that rough cut. Great video too.
Thanks Mark! I'm really enjoying working with oak lately!
I ran into the same problem with static build up and tried a few different ways to fix it. The best was to completely run the grounding electrode around the the pvc every three inches then ground the end to the wire inside the flex duct and to the electrical box (emt) on the other end. That way it has a return path to ground. hope it helps you.
That all makes sense, thanks for sharing your input!
Well done..your comment "Does that look professional or what" made me spit my beer out...and garnered you a subscriber...
😂😂 stay tuned for more ridiculous dry humor!
Great video. As Jonas mentioned, it looks like the black Y splitter is backwards. The airflow angle is no good.
Thanks Yossi! Will be correcting that in the next video!
First watch. I have a similar system in my shop (pvc-based) and I did the copper/screw grounding, but connected the copper to the building electrical ground. My understanding is that was to prevent a buildup of static electricity in the tubing. Been a few years and it is working great.
That makes sense, thanks for sharing!
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 and of course, the screw tip needs to break the inside wall of the pipe.
I have that same set of "custom" white sawhorses LOL. Great video, I also hate my dust collector bag and need a separator. 👍
Nice 😆
The white bag is terrible, honestly this setup was one of the best upgrades I have done 👍🏻
I’m just getting my dust collection together I was going to run a ground to the floor. I think because your cart had rubber wheels it’s not actually grounding. Nice job
Thanks Mike! I’m pretty sure that was part of the problem.. check out the video I have pinned at the top of the comments to see how I fixed it! Good luck with your setup!
When I moved into my new shop which is completely insulated and has air conditioning and heat from a mini split....I designed dust collection that has a Harbor Freight dust collector and Oneida Super Dust Deputy outside. The dust is collected outside in a plastic 35 gallon drum. The air then returns to the shop and is filtered through a plenum box with a merv-15 Wynn Environmental filter.
Would you be able to send me a couple of pictures of this please, this is a setup I need, I'm using a mini split as well with the whole dust system inside my work space which is small and the noise...they noise. I'm still getting fine dust particles too with the merv-15 Wynn attached, some might be escaping the bag.
That's a great idea, I wish I was able to vent mine outside!
I agree. The wye near the trash can is backwards.
Will have it fixed in the next video!
I have almost exactly the same set-up, but I configured it a bit differently. I took the motor and blower off the original dust collector, and mounted it high on a wall. Below that, I have a 44 gallon drum on the original base plate & wheels from the dust collector. My Oneida cyclone is mounted on top of the 44 gallon drum, and there is a short (12 inch) length of 4 inch hose connecting the top of the cyclone to the suction side of the blower. I have then made a manifold from 4 inch pvc attached via another short hose to the suction side of the cyclone. The exhaust from the blower vents directly outside my shed - I have never seen any sign of dust or woodchip coming out of this (except for once when I accidentally let the 44 gallon drum get too full). I have completely done away with the plastic bag and any type of filter, and the system works so much better without those restrictions to total air flow.
Sounds like a cool setup. I’ve further reconfigured mine since this video, I mounted the blower on the wall with the exhaust venting into an open end filter into a gamma sealed bucket. You can see the setup in some of my newer videos 👍🏻
@AusMiner...would you mind posting a picture of your set up?
@@deanvonfeldt5924 don't think I can post photos on here. If you send me an email address I can send you some photos of it.
Great video!
Small suggestion… try blowing out the filter while still connected to the extractor. Most the dust will fall down into your bag.
Great tip! I do that sometimes while it's still connected to see if the filter needs cleaned out.
Great video. 👍🏻
Thanks Jose!
Run the wire in the pipe and out small holes at each end that you seal. You also need a good hook up to ground.
Thanks for the input Joe!
You may not see fine dust in the bag right away since you cleaned the filter out. The fine dust will fill the filter media first. To see how good it is you need to look at the filter or bang it and see how much fine dust falls down. These are very good additions to any dust collector for longer filter life less bag changes.
That's a great point.. I'll have to keep an eye on the filter even if the bag is empty
Re grounding: Are there casters under the dust collector? Probably not conductive wheels. Wire to a grounded outlet box.
Yep, I think that's a part of the issue!
I’m not sure about the static, but the wye you have before the cyclone should be reversed for smoother flow into the cyclone. Other than that looks like it works pretty good.
Thanks for the input, check out this video for the follow up and the wye adjustment 👍🏻
m.ruclips.net/video/9HhDJqozDNg/видео.html
Thanks I am thinking about getting the Oneida. I do have one anecdote. Are you grounding the pipe for a lightning strike? You only need to ground for stray static, a small braided copper would be more then enough and save a ton of money. Thanks again for the video.
After using it since I published this video, it’s worked excellent - I wish I would’ve gotten it sooner. I was just trying to ground the static out to keep from getting a little zap when I go to empty the bin, not related to lightning at all 👍🏻
I have the same cyclone. You mentioned filling of the dust collector bag when your original set up barrel filled up. This also happens with the Cyclone and the planer is the main culprit- recommend checking barrel fill frequently with planning. It takes a long time to fill barrel with table saw etc.
You're spot on! Keeping those planer chips out of the bag is the whole reason I wanted to make this video
I was always under the impression that the grounding wire was supposed to be inside the pipe.
I ran very thin copper wire through the inside of all my PVC dust piping. It comes out through a very small hole close to the business end and is then grounded. I have never been zapped by static build up. Hope this helps 🙂
I had read that as well, but found conflicting info that it could be outside the pipe too. I might have to try that
You can run the wire outside as long as you tap the pipe every so often with a screw the wire attaches to. You really don’t need to ground anything 4” and under.
@@mattschreiber4251 I’ve been using ungrounded 4” lines for over 30 years without a problem.
PVC is not a conductor so only the molecules of PVC that are in direct contact with the wire will be grounded. The practice is useless.
Bare copper wire may have a clear coat on it. Scrape the section making contact with screws should work.
Someone mentioned mobile add may not be grounded. I’d run the grounding wire to motor housing which is grounded.
Great tips! It was bare wire but that still makes sense.. I fixed everything in my newest video and it seems to be working well now!
I know this video is a year old and i don't know if he change setups since then. But i did something different and similar at the same time😅 i set up a smaller system with 2 harborfreight cyclone separators on steel 5 gal buckets with drum style locking rings ( from uline) to a shop vac. Instead of collecting wood shaving/ dust, i use it to clean suck up the dirt, debris, dust, plaster from a 100+ year old house im helping to do a renovation on. I hooked the cyclones up series so if the 1st cyclone/ bucket gets full or has to much junk flowing through it and can't keep up, the 2nd one picks up the slack. So basically the 1st cyclone get the big / med size debris, then the 2nd gets the fines and the shop vac gets the ultra fines in its air filter. Has worked pretty well and i haven't had any major issues with it so far. Oh just in case someone wants to know. I used the steel 5 gal buckets b/c i tried the plastic and the shop vac would imploded the plastic bucket like crushing a soda can with your hands. And i used buckets b/c it is easier to deal with when full then a trash can/ drum, since im dealing with heavier debris not wood shaving/ dust.
Sounds like a cool setup, I’ve heard of people using these to clean out debris before, I’m sure it worked well 👍🏻
a cyclone works well in my shop. I did add a rod through the lid so I can monitor the fill.
I need to figure out a way to monitor the level in the bin for sure!
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 I drilled a hole in the lid, installed a rubber grommet, and fit 3/8" dowel through grommet. I glued a block on the bottom of the dowel. Block will hit the sawdust and the dowel indicates the depth
For your consideration on the grounding question. ruclips.net/video/WJ8NMYlhaLQ/видео.html - bottom line, PVC is an insulator. It's an amazing insulator. Electricity cannot travel across it even an inch to get to a screw connected to a wire. Thus the screw and the wire are not really able to help. At least so say some expert folk I have watched demonstrate this with a voltage meter. I was all set to ground mine, and watched some videos and decided not to bother. I realize some are not persuadable and some are. To each his own.
Thanks for the input! That video (and all of Stumpy Nubs channel) has so much great info!
Having been shocked into oblivion twice in a row by grabbing the same pvc pipe just half an armslength apart i can confirm 😆
Twas like being hit by lightning.. LOUD!
Oh my apologies...the video must've skipped to the next one(yours)in my list to watch when I was typing(on the last video)...a fella put up a generator shed along side his house with the fence literally 1 foot from it..his ac unit was further back down the fence line...again my apologies..comment for the other vid....now I gotta watch yours again..lol
Haha, good deal! I wasn’t following 😆
I have a shop vac system with a 5 gallon bucket that works very well.
Nice!!
The copper wire needs to be inside ths PVC so it is in the dust stream, drill a hole in the outside of the pipe just as you did so the coper wire can be connected to a good earth ground. I used the ground for the electrical panel and it worked great.
Thanks for the input and sharing those tips!
I used to use a shopvac and made a long hose for it so I could sit it outside (because renting, no holes in the 18' square shed walls) and it zapped me every time, I ran a piece of ordinary thin garden wire down the hose inside and had a 1/4" gutterbolt each end I attached to, then ran a spiral of the same wire round the outside fixed every foot or two with tape, and earthed to the motor body of the shopvac, that fixed my zap issues. But then I found a 20gal drum and made a cyclone, and saw that the shopvac got no dust in it after a few weeks of use so I found a cartridge HEPA filter and bodged that onto the outlet and can now use the thing inside the shed so I don't need the long hose any more. And I haven't tried a dust meter but I still wear a mask anyway, it's just good practice when you have COPD. But try the wire inside and out joined by a through bolt, it might help. In the skinny 3"(ish) shopvac hose it sometimes caused blockages but you have a much larger diameter should be all good.
Sounds like a cool setup, thanks for sharing and the input 👍🏻
The new dust deputy’s come with a anti static tape that goes on the dust deputy cyclone. But I’m not sure at the level you’re collecting if that’d even work.
Hmm, not sure if my kit had one of those! I was able to fix the static using a chain 👍🏻
Have you connected the copper wire of the hoses to the housing if the dust collector as well? If not you should do it.
I hadn’t, I ended up fixing this issue with a chain in my next video 👍🏻
Run the ground from your pipes back to the blower. The static will discharge thought the outlet that the blower is plugged in to.
That was my idea with the frame, but it makes sense it would have to go to the blower
dust particles getting past the Oneida dust collector could be caused by the trash can lid not creating an air tight seal, otherwise the vacuum is sucking in air and taking particles into your vacuum. The idea is the air tight seal keeps the particles in the container while the clean air exists to the vacuum. I have an Oneida dust collector for 5 gallon bucket, and I made a plastic disc a few inches smaller than the bucket, screwed it to a stick (like a "T"), bent it somewhat in half downward to have debris slid off better, set it in my bucket then placed the top back onto the bucket. The idea is to prevent the dust and particles swirling around as it fills up and being sucked into the clean air existing. Seems to work.
Makes sense! Thanks for sharing your input 👍🏻
Which Merve 15 do you have, and what is the diameter? I was looking at the WEN, but the diameter on my DC is 20" and the WENs are smaller, so I was hoping to find one where I didn't have to make a plywood base.
I'm pretty sure it's the 35C222NANO . I'm not certain if they make filters that large but you may be able to reach out to them.
Suggestion: flip your 4” wye around at the end of your cyclone 180 degrees, you will get better suction on your floor hose.
Thanks for the suggestion - check out this video where I corrected the wye!
m.ruclips.net/video/9HhDJqozDNg/видео.html
Is that y from the miter saw the wrong direction or am I seeing it wrong? I’m needing to do the same thing.
Yep, it's backward. I'll be fixing in the next video!
Run a dedicated ground from your power ground to the dust collector chassis and on to your piping
Thanks for the tips John!
You need to ground it to earth ground. The frame of the dust collector is probably not grounded properly. Another possibility is that the screws are not providing the proper ground to the sawdust running through the 4-inch pipe. That is where the static charge builds, not on the outside of the pipe. I put a short 12-inch grounded wire internally at each joint, and that worked well
Makes sense, thanks for offering the input!
Where did you get the paper filter? The 5 micron bag lets way too much dust by
I agree that the 5 micron filter is awful. Here’s the link to the canister filter.
Wynn filters: wynnenv.com/woodworking-filters/
I run my through a Dust Deputy then modified my blower to set on a thien baffle mounted on a barrel then just vented it outside through a 6 inch stove pipe this way I just have to empty the small barrel on the dust collector but but if I forget to empty it the barrel catches the dust. Only have to dump it every couple of years.
Sounds like a cool setup! Thanks for the input
How much vacuum is developed in the trashcan? An in use view would be good. My homemade shopvac setup has trashcan collapse problems which required a mid trashcan support ring. You ground wire could be a much smaller gauge wire, static electricity has almost no amps.
I’m not sure if/how to measure the vacuum pressure. Its not enough to collapse the trash can - I haven’t had any issues whatsoever with this setup
I have a smaller version and the black cyclones are conductive and you need to run a ground wire to the cyclone and to earth ground.
Thanks for the input Jim! I ended up fixing the issue by using a chain 👍🏻
I have a similar set-up. I dont find emptying the bag to be as big a problem as cleaning the filter. I dont see how your oneida addition will help with keeping the filter clean. Maybe that wasnt your goal. Its still a useful and informative video...thanks.
I'm mainly hoping to route more of the dust to the trash can that the previous cyclone attachments were. I don't mind to empty the trash can, but I hate emptying the plastic bag 😆
do they make conductive paint that sticks to PVC? (then just ground one end of the pipe system)
Not sure honestly, maybe someone else can chime in on that.
I built my own cyclone 20 years ago and works great (6" in and out). The motor exhaust is plumbed to the outside this way its 100% micron particals out of my shop without any filtration. With an insulated exhaust hose it also makes it much quieter.
Paul , I’d like to see a video of your cyclone and dust collector.
I also have a home-made cyclone (4" in and out), that is plumbed outside. And 100% of the fine dust goes into the woods. I'm surprised more people don't do this.
Sounds like a fun build! I've definitely considered venting it outside several times!
What about the tremendous air loss in your house, be it in the hot summer or cold winter??
@@Cyclonut96 yup, it wouldn't be good to vent to the outside in Nebraska in the winter. 1200cfm warm air out means 1200cfm outside air temperature in. It wouldn't take long to change hot coffee into iced coffee 😂
I once cleaned out my 5 micron pleated paper filter by hosing it out. Keeps the dust down and cleaned out all the pleats. No after problems, and the air dried it right out. I since got a new filter, and it is less than 1 micron. I haven't hosed it out yet...
Cool idea, thanks for sharing 👍🏻
I'm in the process of setting up my home wood shop. I don't have 10s of thousands of dollars to invest in this right now. The dust deputy looks like a real winner. That Grizzly planer is sweet! I was looking at the Dewalt 735 13" planer but I'm pretty skeptical. I'm a 40 year career carpenter but just getting into home wood working. I'm used to working with good powerful tools and I don't think I'll be happy with that dewalt at all. I might have to save up my pennies and buy a real planer like that Grizzly.
I’m really happy with the dust deputy so far. I’ve read a lot of good things about the D735 - I just build several tops and panels around ~18” wide, so that was the selling point for me
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 I think I'm gonna bite the bullet and get the 15" version of the planer, you have, with the helical cutters. Its on sale right now for about $2500. Probably gonna order it tonight. I think I'll be real happy with that one. It should serve me well for the foreseeable future.
Nice, I think that’s a great choice. I strongly considered the 15” when I was looking into new planers
Stumpy Nubs has a comprehensive video on grounding a dust collector that you might find interesting. One of the issues is that PVC is not conductive and as particles rub against each other at high speed through the pipe they create a static charge. The point of a screw every few feet is not enough surface area to discharge that charge, yet to much in the pipe creates restrictions that you don't want either. But I completely agree with you, I hate getting zapped by my dust collector. It's not about fear of an explosion, there isn't enough energy in there to do that. But there is enough to give a person a really good zap which is what I wanted to avoid. It looks like you tried to ground to your DC cart which is probably on rubber wheels. Try running the ground to a motor bolt. The electric motor should be grounded through your electrical system. Additionally, I extend the wire inside my flex hose and grounded that to the machine it is attached to. I don't know if it helped but after grounding what I could I don't get zapped anymore
Have you ever seen a grain silo explosion?
Why not just use galvanised steel duct work anyway? Then earth that? I can't really understand why the woodwork hobby guys use PVC in their home brew dust extraction setups. 100mm, 125mm and 150mm are all common sizes and it's not expensive for spiral 0.7mm stuff.
I'm a dust control service and testing engineer, what I see that's instantly an issue is the excessive use of flexible duct. It should only be used for the final connection to equipment, the static pressure lost to turbulence is significant and recommend the smooth bore type ductwork, although this has much less flexibility generally and come in rolls rather than squashed up.
@@vambo1980 I used spiral steel ducts for mine. It’s definitely a lot harder to work with and more expensive than the thin PVC, which is why a lot of people use PVC, but I think it is ultimately superior. I ran a 7 inch duct which is a pain to cut and not easy to assemble/disassemble easily (I used rivets, whereas most people who use PVC just use friction fit and some tape).
Woodworkers often hate metal working since we don’t really have the tools for it.
My cyclone required spiral rather than the much easier to use sheets that you can assemble into ducts. At 5HP, it collapses those.
@@vambo1980 I went with PVC because this is not a long term permanent solution - I hope to eventually be working in a different location where I can install a true system with steel ducting.
Stumpy Nubs channel is awesome! Everything you mentioned makes complete sense.. I'm mainly just trying to avoid the static zap everytime I have to empty the bin.
Not sure if anyone mentioned it, but you could attach your copper ground wire to your cold water pipe so that you get proper earth ground. Also, make sure your copper wire isn't touch the paint should touch bare medal, in your system as paint will isolate your equipment from the copper wire.
Thanks for the input! Can’t believe I didn’t think to attach it to bare metal!
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 I would highly discourage using the cold water line as a ground. Any potential difference (even from static electricity) provokes the appearance and accumulation of stray currents (similar to Foucault currents in transformers). They are not as strong, but can significantly accelerate the corrosion of metal pipes in contact with the ground. It is better to join the existing ground loop, and if it is not there, then it is not difficult to make it - dig / drive into the ground to a depth of 2-3 meters thick reinforcement rods in the form of an equilateral triangle with sides of 1.5 meters. The tops of the reinforcements are connected with a metal rod by welding. Good luck!
And yes - I'm glad you're using a respirator - many people underestimate the risk of lung silicosis from inhaling fine wood dust. ;)
Cut a section out of that trash can, replace it with plexiglass or something you can see through. I have the same issue on my cyclone.
I definitely need to do this!
I'm in the process of deciding if I want one of the cheap solutions you removed or buy a cyclone like you did. I would been interested to see the change from the long run of flex-pipe that you had to the new PVC using the cheaper method to see if that was better before going to the cyclone. I have read a lot about how much that much flex-pipe could have caused some adverse effects to your system. Perhaps just going to PVC would have been enough?
I just switched from the bag filter to a Wynn filter AND the Dust Deputy Deluxe. Night and day. So far, I have ZERO in the bag/filter. It cost $350 for the filter ($45 delivery charge…) and $279 for the Dust Deputy. It seems like crazy money, but I also recently bought a Jet 2-stage system for my main shop, and THAT cost close to $2000.
Don’t cheap out too much - breathing that shit is suicide…
I mounted a harbor freight DC to my garage wall. Under that I have a cyclone and chip bin. Like the other guy said, the way to go is a wynn or blow the fine dust outside if possible. The Harbor Freight setup isn't bad at all
PVC would've probably been best but I already had the flex hose, so I was just using what I had. I'll be re-doing some of this in my next video. I'd love to get a full system from Oneida (V-system or gorilla pro), but can't justify that in my current space yet. Really happy with the filter and cyclone so far though
@@michaelkeymont501 Can't agree with you more Michael! IMO $350ish is basically free compared to respiratory complications.
Nice setup... I did the same sort of setup, I have a 1hp dust collector but instead of a small garbage can I used a 40gal metal drum with a removeable lid. I found the planer filled the garbage can too fast. Also, the screws that you run into the pipe should be up higher so it doesn't interfere with the shavings. Wrap the copper wire around the pipe so the loop is spaced about 18" and screw in every other loop. Screws in the air flow, not the shavings
Thanks for the input Greg! I corrected the grounding issue in the next video.. my planer does fill the trash can up quickly still but it’s 100x better to empty than the collector bag 😆
the wire on the outside doesn't dissipate the static that is inside of the pipe
Maybe you have to ground it to the flexible hose and connect it to the bolt that connect the motor to the frame
That's a good idea, several others mentioned something similar!
Get some Flat Copper Braid Cable, 1/4” or 1/2 “. Copper Braid Wire Ground Lead, run in inside all the pvc pipe and grounded at both ends. If you use 1/4” do on both side of the pipe, opposite sides inside of the pipe. Or just use 4” or 5” steel conduit grounded, Just screw’s won’t work very well. I’ve done this on large dust collectors at a newspaper.
Thanks for input 👍🏻 I ended up fixing the static issue with a chain
To solve the problem of replacing the bag just get some small magnets to help hold the bag in place then it’s easy to put the strap on. 😊
That’s a great solution, thanks for the input!
Is the ground on your dust collector good? And, I would take the ground to a ground point not a machine on wheels.
Yes, I believe it is, not taking it to the ground point seemed to be the issue
try wrapping the wire around the PVC in a screw type pattern then connect it to any copper water pipe. if you’re hooked up to the city water supply, these pipes are a good way to ground your dust collection.
if you get water from a well, connect the wire to grounding rod that your electric panel is connected to.
if none of that is available to you, put a ten foot rod on the end of a cement drill, and run that into the ground and connect the wire to that. this is how electricians ground out a house service panel.
that will definitely offer a solid ground.
if wrapping the wire around the pvc is not enough, you may need to wrap the flexible hoses…..yours on your own in that one. i do know they make flexible hoses with a wire structure to keep the shape.
maybe that could help.
there are a lot of youtube videos on grounding dust collection systems, if my suggestions fail.
you should post whatever you do that remedies the problem.
Thanks for the input - that all makes sense! I ended up fixing the issue with a chain, check out my next video I posted after this one!
Your static maybe because the static builds up on the entire surface of the PVC. I’ve heard of people running a spiral wire around the pipe, but I’m not sure how effective that would be either.
Thanks for the input Stephen! I was able to fix the static with a chain 👍🏻
"If that`s not professional, I don`t know what is!" as you run around and holds up the hose every time you feed the board through the planer. lol. Sorry, I just found that a little funny. Still, it`s a fine demonstration of the workings of the dust deputy. Might have to pick one up soon
😂😂 I didn't want to look too professional. I'm really happy with the dust deputy so far.. thanks for watching!
Hahaha. That really got on my nerves. Tie it up to the garage door tracks or something.
I grounded mine in a similar way, I mean screwing into the PVC pipe and fittings, but connected the ground to an actual earth ground from an outlet. I'm guessing the frame of the motor is not grounded to earth.
That makes sense, I don' think I technically grounded anything.
Not sure if anyone's mention it but you can get the whole templates from Oneida's site
I figured they had them on their site, thanks for the info!
Get a plug repair kit from the store, run the copper grounding wire to the 3rd pin on the plug only, and do nothing with the other 2 pins. this will gound it to the ground spike outside of your house. The dust collector's metal base is most likely not grounded at all.
That definitely makes sense.. I was thinking the frame was connected to ground for some reason.
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 That's another option: just connecting the ground wire hooked up to the motor, to the machine.
Nice setup! I'm going to give it a try.
For the grounding, I would assume just attaching the copper to the dust collector isn't actually grounding the wire. The motor is most likely separated from the rest of the unit, so you aren't tapping into the electrical ground.
That makes sense, thanks for the tip! I’ll definitely rewire it and see if that makes any difference!
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 grab a multimeter and check continuity between your wire and electrical ground to be certain.
Chassis ground and motor ground are connected to each other for safety, so that you don't get a shock if something goes wrong and the chassis gets electrified.
@@fer662 This!
Looks like several others have mentioned this, but whatever…😅 running the copper wire inside your piping is the way to go. I won’t bother explaining why, since Charles Enfield already did a good job.
Definitely heard this throughout the comments 😆 Thanks for the input!
PVC is an insulator. You can't ground an insulator. Most of your static buildup is coming from the friction generated in your flex hose. Eliminate more of the flex hose and you'll have less static to deal with. Putting screws into your nice, smooth pipe is ruining the good laminar flow the smooth pipe gives you (and not gaining you anything either). Having a grounding wire hanging handy to discharge your hose locally before you touch it each time is probably all you'll ever need to keep from getting shocked.
Thanks for the input!
at 5:14 in the video, your Y fitting is backwards. Keep it connected at the bottom, disconnect the upper two and spin it 180 degrees so the Y is on the left side.
Thanks for your input, check out this video for a follow up on the wye fitting 👍🏻
m.ruclips.net/video/9HhDJqozDNg/видео.html
The PVC is an insulator and any charge built up on it will not be readily flow to ground that's not almost in direct contact with your grounding wire and screws.
Sounds correct, thanks for the input!
The dust strips electrons from the PVC and carries them through the system. You need a way to shed those electrons to ground, and the only thing in contact with the dust in your set-up is the tips of those screws. You need to run the wire inside the pipe. You can drill tiny holes in the ends of the runs and at the tools to get in and out if the pipe, around blast gates, etc.
Thanks for the input! I read a few articles on putting wire inside the pipe, I might give it a try!
You really need to turn that Y around 180⁰. I know, the other hose will point up and then down making it look weird or even kink, but the way you did it is a no-no. I'd rather have it look weird and work properly. And there are still ways to work around that to make it right. Good luck!
Thanks for the input! I fixed it in my newest video!
Great video! Are you satisfied with the harbor freight dust collector!
Thanks! For the price, yes it's been excellent. I would highly recommend upgrading the filter, the 5 micron bag is unsafe in my opinion.
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 I definitely agree with the filter that was the plan i was just curious if the motor was strong enough for your liking
If I was doing a large permanent system that would be there for many years, I would just go ahead and get a much bigger collector. For my setup it works pretty well. It handles most of the chips from the planer and jointer without any issues, some fine dust escapes but I’m happy with it overall
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 Thank You soo much! That is exactly what i needed to here
Try connecting the ground wire to the wall not the base for the dust collector. Since its metal it conducts electricity and thats fine but the wheels on it are rubber so it doesn't ground out
Thanks for the input! The wheels were definitely part of the issue!
Do they make a 6" version?
Yes, here's the link to the 6" version.
amzn.to/3Mn7bko
If your stand that the blower motor is on isn't grounded then your dust collection pipe will not be grounded. You getting shocked means you became the ground. You can hammer a ground rod into your yard on the other side of the wall of your dust collector and connect a wire to the stand and it will ground your system. Make sure it is metal on metal connection, grind paint off if you need to.
Makes sense! Thanks for the input!
Did you scrape the paint off the DC at the spot you connected the ground wire to the DC? This can cause a grounding failure.
If you did it off-camera or I just didn't see it, nevermind, lmao!
I didn’t.. that’s a great point! I ended up finding another way in my next video but that’s a great point - surprised no one else mentioned that!
Just curious but where is the ground rod that goes into the ground
There isn't one.. think that's why this didn't work.
Grounding not working. Possibly because of rubber tyres on the castors of the dust collector
Yep, I think that was a contributing factor. Check out my new video for how I fixed it!
Grounding PVC is a misconception. It's a great insulator which means there's no way way to properly ground it. There have been studies to show that the spark from a PVC pipe to an object travelling inside the duct won't be sufficient to lead to a fire. However a lack of occurrence isn't proof it will never occur.
Thanks for the input and feedback Tony! 👍🏻
Get rid of the bottom bag and use a Glad. When it's full. either toss it or dump it. The chips and dust fall right out.
Good point Rick!
It looks like you attached the ground wire to your dust collection cart frame. Unless the cart is grounded through some other means I can’t see, it’s isolated from ground by the plastic wheels it’s mounted on.
Thanks Cory, that makes sense.. Not sure why I didn't realize that at first!
Metal pipes or a conductive coating inside the PVC is the only way to prevent static. A humidifier helps, just don't let it get over 55% RH, it will rust all your tools.
Thanks for the input Bob! I went with PVC mainly due to the cost.
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 Thanks for the reply. You get zapped coming and going... zapped in the hand or zapped in the wallet, take your choice! 😁
😂😂
Can you still hear the smoke detector when it's in the dust deputy?
😂😂 it hasn’t stopped going off ever since I put it in there
6:00 that extra dust is due to the length of hose between the planer and the cyclone.
Thanks for the input!
am i missing somthing that ground isnt grounded it needs to be connected to an actual earth connection.
Makes sense! Thanks for the input!
Looks like you don't have your grounding wire going to a ground that might be why it's still building static charge
Makes sense, thanks Larry!
The hose has wire you need to attach the ground wire to the wire that is part of corrugated tubing.
That's a great point!
I just purchased a used Jet 1.5 hp with canister filter. Using it the sawdust/chips are constantly swirling in the bag. This does not seem right.
I think that’s typical with these type of filters. I would assume the airflow swirls around on the bag like a whirlpool until the actual air makes its way through the filter
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 my home made pre collector for the shop vac worked very different. : (
Doesn't a ground wire need to go to ground???
I guess so 😆 I was thinking I could ground it out to the frame if the frame was grounded.
Not sure how you can actually ground PVC given that it’s an insulator. Maybe the spots that the ground is touching it, but not sure that would make any difference
Good points, thanks for sharing 👍🏻
I don't know what it called. Make the part on the leaf truck vacuum to hold your suction hose out of the way and put some wheels on your can. The see me roll'n hate'n try to catch me Dusty
😂😂
is the ground attached to your wall at a 2x4 or anything? The wire is attached to your pipe and then the base of the vac which is on those rubber wheels so I don't think its doing much. personally I would attach it to your building in some way. However this is purely a uneducated statement.
It wasn't - I think that was part of the problem. Appreciate the tips and input!
I’ve scared neighbors, birds and kids with the words and volume of those words as I change the bag on my dust collector.
😆😆😆 Spot on Derek!
You need to run a " tail " of wire down onto the ground - I have my dust collector under a steel framed carport, the steel posts are about 4 foot into the ground with the wire connected to one post, no zaps since, my shop vac ( on wheels ) has a tail scraping on the ground, the container is metal, no wire on the hose, no zaps since the tail was attached, so nice after years and years of zaps from both systems.
Thanks for the input Ed! That makes sense!