Jeremy Anthony yes I know he is. A bit of a hike from me but I think he's closer to you? Hey, thanks! I appreciate that! I was just happy it ran, no knocking, etc... lol😆
Jeremy Anthony Maybe but I don't see meeting up anytime soon... between gardening, work, house maintenance & chores, and some sidework. I have my washer which just went down too, so I'll have to wrk on that somehow in between it all.... lol never-ending
Jeez, as easy as it is to pull the engine on these cars you might as well yank the engine and do a complete rebuild. lol Torx plus? Never knew they existed. Thanks Ivan!
It’s such a bummer about the gates kits turning to low quality. I recently used an Aisin kit and it had all OEM stuff in it. Also, I love working on Subaru’s. I did my first engine rebuild on one with the same head gasket issue.
Never been that deep in a Subaru - that timing belt setup reminds me of older Honda Goldwing engines. Timing belt was a mile long, going from one head to the next about 3' away. I did have a guy bring me a pair of Subaru heads to adjust the valves on - definitely a strange design there with the variable valve timing, but seems to work (aside from that guide issue there!). Enjoying the series here! Nice work Ivan. 👍
I'm still in Germany until Wednesday but I'm sure it's at home. Our neighbor is checking the mail for us. I have a double fuel injector misfire (#5 and #8) on my 05 Diesel and I can't imagine both failed at one time so the vantage will be handy to check the circuits. It might be a future video!
I just did a 2.2 Phase 2 From a 2000 Impreza All 4 exhaust guides were shoved down on the left head. One so far down the valve hit and deformed it. That happens Typically when someone overheats the engine.
Man that Nano shorty is nice use mine all the time another great video Ivan and glad your using only OEM tensioner instead of that Gates crap. Well anyway keep those videos coming my friend.
Great series. I removed the heads from my 2003 Subi Forester. Put the heads with the valves facing up and filled the top with a soapy substance and all the exhaust and intake valves were leaking only on the head on the drivers side. I numbered my valves with an engraver 1-3. 2-4I then removed the springs and covered oil ports with duct tape and sand blasted the valves and the heads staying away from the side of the head where you install the spark plugs. They sure were dirty and I’m sure that’s why it was leaking. I checked the valves for wear with an outside micrometer and a dial caliper and now I just need to check the head surface with a straight edge and a feeler gauge to determine if it needs to go to the machine shop. If I do have to resurface the head, what do you think a fair price would be. This is my first time doing this and I took a basic engine rebuild class at a local community college and that’s what I’m working with. Thanks for you vid. It must be hard doing it without a lift
Make sure to lap the valves to the seats in the head with special valve paste to make them seal better. Head resurfacing should run less that $100 per head. Good luck!
I agree with not using Gates belts. I bought some for an 07 Jetta and they were too small. I went with OEM belts and they went in easy. What a hassle with Gates belts. Never again.
Subaru "boxer" engines sorta unique and diabolical-but excellent CLEAR DIY video- ~ did not know "special" torx required-so must get some, If I ever get Subaru -my Porsche 3.6 L was COMPLETELY different concept-as was VW bug suspect part 5 required ,since all went well,if cramped, so far-
Not a bad policy ONLY IF you use the OEM pump, and not some cheap knock-off included in a timing belt kit ;) I generally don't touch them until they start showing signs of failure, or if they are notorious for failing.
Reading about the tensioner in my Subaru FSM I find, "Caution: Slight traces of oil at rod's oil seal does not indicate the a problem."(sic). I don't agree with this and replace any tensioner that isn't dry. I imagine the dealership will follow FSM advice.
I had a '12 Forrester, FB motor. Burned oil right off the showroom floor, problem got steadily worse the entire 75k miles I had the car despite a very light-footed driving style, and meticulous maintenance. When I traded the car it consumed 1qt per 1k miles.. I am curious now, after watching this video if the valve guide problem is systematic, and if this is part of the subaru oil consumption problem. I did consider perusing a warranty engine replacement, but ultimately decided it would be easier to just trade it...
I first thought that the valve assembly was a horror to remove, but when you showed the spring tension levers and bolts that allowed it all to lift off in a lump, i changed my mind lol. That is a neat design :-D.
Yes it is a bit odd, but it's not the bit that fails so it's not a problem part. Putting the assemblys in a safe box with all bolts in place would be my way too, memory is not as perfect as we think and if you don't work on that type of engine a lot, memory can't be fully trusted. I think memory is a rough reconstruction of an event based on mental notes taken at the time, just think about some of your past memorys and somethings you can't remember with 100% clarity. Memory is dodgy iran lol :-D joking.
action packed series lol . assume guide moved due to head expansion from overheating perhaps. Should be better than new with good scrub up and the felpro gaskets . I tend use dayco belts a lot on subarus and get oem koyo nsk japan idlers/tensioners but not subaru boxed as way better cost . What miles this engine done . Water pumps are super tough, shame HG not the same :-)
Ivan, I bought a Gates timing belt kit about a year ago for my 99 2.5L Forester. Everything was stamped Japan, except the belt of course. Maybe give Gates another try?
Torx+? What's the difference? These always remind me of a more complicated VW Beetle engine. Since their such a PITA to normally get at- you might as well replace those oil & temp sensors, too.
Did you cut the removal of the timing cover bolts short because you didn’t want to show the struggle with the bottom bolts? You only have to take the heads to a machine shop if they whooped.
Relieving the pressure on the rocker arm spring is a cool trick. Does growing facial hair mean you intend to join the Amish faith? You won't be able to work on Sundays. lol
Does anyone know how the hydraulics manage to jam that pin into the hole in the rocker while in operation. I can imagine when it gets gummed up it must make a heck of a mess of the pin and the hole when it fails to engage properly / fully. Hmmm. Seems a pretty iffy setup to me. Maybe I mis-understood the description.
Surprisingly it works very reliably ****IF**** the oil maintenance is done on time and quality synthetic oil is used. This engine looked spotless on the inside :)
I like the boxer concept, love the performance, but the reliability is questionable, I have driven Taurus's since '99 owned 6, you really don't have to do anything but the regular maintenance until 250K.
so, you've never had to replace a camshaft sensor/synchronizer (who needs the oil pump to spin, they'll still run with the gear chewed off, not for long obviously and most often the oil pressure light flicker at best or stays off due to bad connection at the sender) the front timing cover and gaskets (who needs coolant in the engine, if lucky the gasket only fails to the outside and not into the timing chain/oil pan) had a water pump impeller rust off (who needs coolant flow, don't know what "chinesium" they made of, but there's be nothing left but a small jagged disc) starter "solenoid terminal/plug" they added a quick connect design(who needs the car to start, the fix is remove stud/nut to spade adapter , cut car harness and splice in piece with ring terminal, put on starter solenoid stud/nut) those are only 4 of the common issues and I only covered the 3L V6, perhaps you avoided some of the issues by washing often and changing all fluids/flushing properly :)
No, never had to perform maintenance you mentioned, You are 100% correct, maintenance is crucial, 50K anti freeze, rather than 100K recommended, 30K transmission fluid change rather than 150K recommended, 5K oil change, not 7500, 80K plugs, not 100K recommended. Ive driven about 1 million miles on 6 Taurus's, 2 break downs, AC compressor seized, and belt tensioner snapped, only one check engine light, MAP sensor on a 2004. Very few qualified mechanics can do the work IVAN does on a Subaru, Ford is much less of a hassle for maintainability.
Got a question.. when you look at trouble codes on the Verus code reader, there is a box to the right that says" fix it" what happens when you click on this box? Never seen it done.
Bloody hell. A Torx+ in a Japanese car? Subaru didn't secretly get into bed with VW or Ford while i wasn't watching? Looking forward to part 4. Seems to be going pretty well so far.
You actually could but those are good for 105,000 miles. If you mess up, it is behind a cover and when it comes apart, you bend valves. I just replace them. The A/C idler I do repack quite often.
this is actually extremely simple and easy engine to work on. From what I can tell, all aluminium engines suffer from this issue. Northstar being another example. Camry 2002 and up 4cyl have a major head gasket issue that isn't even fixable because the bolt holes lose grip and there is no way to clamp down the head to the block without retaping the holes, and even that repair doesn't last. Problems show up at 70k miles. I have seen two with my own eyes, family member cars. Altimas all have the same issue. I don't know if that engine is fixable. Subaru is one of the rare ones that can be actually fixed pretty cheap and repair is permanent.
patents expired on the regular torx, so other company, made the torx +, which has more lobe "grip" area. allowing for higher torque and less chance of stripping, until you use the wrong tool in them :)) possibly done on purpose to help destroy things, conspiracy theory who knows, they do grip better with the right tool in them.
Overall they are very versatile vehicles, and fun to drive with the 5-speed. They do have their issues with head gaskets and rust though. There is no "perfect" vehicle haha
Good video and very informative - what I'd say that i would never buy a Subaru - engine bay layout is absolutely insane and the engine itself is freaking sick - why do people buy this piece of mechanical experiment..
It seems that here in Russia so many 'smartheads' are obsessed with this brand... And turbocharged in particular. Hmmm weird people if not to say dimwitted. Ivan great thanks for showing us this 'gem' from inside.
Highlighted reply james U - As a new car customer, fully knowing that I would have to fork out $400.00 - $600.00 for a new timing belt replacement every 60,000 miles for a 4 cylinder car, defeats the purpose of buying an economy car.
Hi james U - As a customer, buying a new or used 4 cylinder car, fully knowing that at every 60,000 miles, my new car would require a new timing belt, would defeat the purpose of buying it for economy. Because of the cost.
George Travers oh, I understand the problem. Fortunately Subaru belts are good for 105,000 miles. We used to get rid of cars at 100,000 miles. Many of today's cars if maintained will last 250,000 miles. 2 Timing belt changes!
Well, it's a toss-up. Stretched timing chains, broken guides, and collapsed tensioners are a hell of a lot more expensive to fix than changing a timing belt!!
You put so much time into the video making of this series, which is so evident. It's so appreciated! I'm loving all the detail!
Cuba Rodriguez I love Ivan's videos. did you know he was from state college pa? saw your Chevy video on Google plus. excellent video.
Jeremy Anthony yes I know he is. A bit of a hike from me but I think he's closer to you? Hey, thanks! I appreciate that! I was just happy it ran, no knocking, etc... lol😆
Cuba Rodriguez is it possible we can meet sometime
Cuba Rodriguez do you have an e.mail address
Jeremy Anthony Maybe but I don't see meeting up anytime soon... between gardening, work, house maintenance & chores, and some sidework. I have my washer which just went down too, so I'll have to wrk on that somehow in between it all.... lol never-ending
Thanks Ivan. I shuddered until you got the Torx plus out. I destroyed the fasteners on the first head I did back in 2000. Live and learn!
Jeez, as easy as it is to pull the engine on these cars you might as well yank the engine and do a complete rebuild. lol Torx plus? Never knew they existed. Thanks Ivan!
It’s such a bummer about the gates kits turning to low quality. I recently used an Aisin kit and it had all OEM stuff in it. Also, I love working on Subaru’s. I did my first engine rebuild on one with the same head gasket issue.
Never been that deep in a Subaru - that timing belt setup reminds me of older Honda Goldwing engines. Timing belt was a mile long, going from one head to the next about 3' away. I did have a guy bring me a pair of Subaru heads to adjust the valves on - definitely a strange design there with the variable valve timing, but seems to work (aside from that guide issue there!).
Enjoying the series here! Nice work Ivan. 👍
Very well documented Ivan. The design of the valve train is interesting indeed.
Thanks, Wyatt! Did you get your Vantage back yet?
I'm still in Germany until Wednesday but I'm sure it's at home. Our neighbor is checking the mail for us. I have a double fuel injector misfire (#5 and #8) on my 05 Diesel and I can't imagine both failed at one time so the vantage will be handy to check the circuits. It might be a future video!
I've done a bunch of these. I always pull the engine. Not much more work than doing in the car,and it makes life a lot easier.
I just did a 2.2 Phase 2 From a 2000 Impreza All 4 exhaust guides were shoved down on the left head. One so far down the valve hit and deformed it. That happens Typically when someone overheats the engine.
You could save a lot of time pulling engine it comes out very easy. That book time you quoted is with engine removed.
Man that Nano shorty is nice use mine all the time another great video Ivan and glad your using only OEM tensioner instead of that Gates crap. Well anyway keep those videos coming my friend.
Loving the series Ivan. Take care.
Great series. I removed the heads from my 2003 Subi Forester. Put the heads with the valves facing up and filled the top with a soapy substance and all the exhaust and intake valves were leaking only on the head on the drivers side. I numbered my valves with an engraver 1-3. 2-4I then removed the springs and covered oil ports with duct tape and sand blasted the valves and the heads staying away from the side of the head where you install the spark plugs. They sure were dirty and I’m sure that’s why it was leaking. I checked the valves for wear with an outside micrometer and a dial caliper and now I just need to check the head surface with a straight edge and a feeler gauge to determine if it needs to go to the machine shop. If I do have to resurface the head, what do you think a fair price would be. This is my first time doing this and I took a basic engine rebuild class at a local community college and that’s what I’m working with. Thanks for you vid. It must be hard doing it without a lift
Make sure to lap the valves to the seats in the head with special valve paste to make them seal better. Head resurfacing should run less that $100 per head. Good luck!
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics Will do. Thanks for your advice. I really enjoy your vids. You do a great job
I agree with not using Gates belts. I bought some for an 07 Jetta and they were too small. I went with OEM belts and they went in easy. What a hassle with Gates belts. Never again.
Subaru "boxer" engines sorta unique and diabolical-but excellent CLEAR DIY video- ~
did not know "special" torx required-so must get some, If I ever get Subaru
-my Porsche 3.6 L was COMPLETELY different concept-as was VW bug
suspect part 5 required ,since all went well,if cramped, so far-
Nice, never seen Subaru heads before but those are small enough that I can easily do the machine work on my mill at home.
Snap off Makes Torx plus too! I was thinking about geting a set. Nice that your set even has tamper proofs
Ghetto Wagon torx plus tamper proof are even stranger, 5 points??????
Great job Ivan. Sounds tough job doing it. But you got it piece of cake lol
Ivan .. I always replace the water pump on a timing belt job if there’s one there driven by the t.b.
Not a bad policy ONLY IF you use the OEM pump, and not some cheap knock-off included in a timing belt kit ;) I generally don't touch them until they start showing signs of failure, or if they are notorious for failing.
Since I shouldn't be back in here for another 105,000 miles I always change it.
That's an interesting engine! Thanks for sharing Ivan.
Reading about the tensioner in my Subaru FSM I find, "Caution: Slight traces of oil at rod's oil seal does not indicate the a problem."(sic). I don't agree with this and replace any tensioner that isn't dry. I imagine the dealership will follow FSM advice.
I had a '12 Forrester, FB motor. Burned oil right off the showroom floor, problem got steadily worse the entire 75k miles I had the car despite a very light-footed driving style, and meticulous maintenance. When I traded the car it consumed 1qt per 1k miles.. I am curious now, after watching this video if the valve guide problem is systematic, and if this is part of the subaru oil consumption problem. I did consider perusing a warranty engine replacement, but ultimately decided it would be easier to just trade it...
I first thought that the valve assembly was a horror to remove, but when you showed the spring tension levers and bolts that allowed it all to lift off in a lump, i changed my mind lol.
That is a neat design :-D.
But that camshaft bearing sandwich plate is silly!!
Yes it is a bit odd, but it's not the bit that fails so it's not a problem part.
Putting the assemblys in a safe box with all bolts in place would be my way too, memory is not as perfect as we think and if you don't work on that type of engine a lot, memory can't be fully trusted.
I think memory is a rough reconstruction of an event based on mental notes taken at the time, just think about some of your past memorys and somethings you can't remember with 100% clarity.
Memory is dodgy iran lol :-D joking.
The Japanese are a clever bunch you know old chap.
I always love your videos Ivan .
action packed series lol .
assume guide moved due to head expansion from overheating perhaps.
Should be better than new with good scrub up and the felpro gaskets .
I tend use dayco belts a lot on subarus and get oem koyo nsk japan idlers/tensioners but not subaru boxed as way better cost .
What miles this engine done .
Water pumps are super tough, shame HG not the same :-)
Put some never seize on the valve cover bolts, it seems that buying a long block would have saved a lot of time .
Ivan, I bought a Gates timing belt kit about a year ago for my 99 2.5L Forester. Everything was stamped Japan, except the belt of course. Maybe give Gates another try?
Torx+? What's the difference? These always remind me of a more complicated VW Beetle engine. Since their such a PITA to normally get at- you might as well replace those oil & temp sensors, too.
So theres a TORX 40 and a TORX 40 plus! Where is god?
done a few of these ,,,,how come no pull the engine?
Just started to see some torx plus fasteners on these new cars. Finally got a external set too. Just more money to spend lol.
OTC makes a nice affordable set.
@9:28 both middle headbolts look black
Ivan rev up your engine well when it's back together😁😁😁
That is coming up in Part 5 Leon ;D
Hi Ivan, What is the labour time to do the timing belt and water pump ONLY (no head gasket) on that 2009 Subaru?
Did you cut the removal of the timing cover bolts short because you didn’t want to show the struggle with the bottom bolts?
You only have to take the heads to a machine shop if they whooped.
Nah they all came out easy :)
What's wrong with the gates kits?
it's missing a few cams and turbo =p
Interesting, didn't even know there was such a thing as Torx-plus
Relieving the pressure on the rocker arm spring is a cool trick. Does growing facial hair mean you intend to join the Amish faith? You won't be able to work on Sundays. lol
Ivan what is the name of the air ratchet that you are using in the video.THANKS!
“Buzz” the rocker arm shafts during this “head trip”.
Does anyone know how the hydraulics manage to jam that pin into the hole in the rocker while in operation. I can imagine when it gets gummed up it must make a heck of a mess of the pin and the hole when it fails to engage properly / fully. Hmmm. Seems a pretty iffy setup to me. Maybe I mis-understood the description.
Surprisingly it works very reliably ****IF**** the oil maintenance is done on time and quality synthetic oil is used. This engine looked spotless on the inside :)
I would put some rags in the intake ports JUST IN CASE.
are you going to replace the water pump too?
I like the boxer concept, love the performance, but the reliability is questionable, I have driven Taurus's since '99 owned 6, you really don't have to do anything but the regular maintenance until 250K.
so, you've never had to replace a camshaft sensor/synchronizer (who needs the oil pump to spin, they'll still run with the gear chewed off, not for long obviously and most often the oil pressure light flicker at best or stays off due to bad connection at the sender)
the front timing cover and gaskets (who needs coolant in the engine, if lucky the gasket only fails to the outside and not into the timing chain/oil pan)
had a water pump impeller rust off (who needs coolant flow, don't know what "chinesium" they made of, but there's be nothing left but a small jagged disc)
starter "solenoid terminal/plug" they added a quick connect design(who needs the car to start, the fix is remove stud/nut to spade adapter , cut car harness and splice in piece with ring terminal, put on starter solenoid stud/nut)
those are only 4 of the common issues and I only covered the 3L V6, perhaps you avoided some of the issues by washing often and changing all fluids/flushing properly :)
No, never had to perform maintenance you mentioned, You are 100% correct, maintenance is crucial, 50K anti freeze, rather than 100K recommended, 30K transmission fluid change rather than 150K recommended, 5K oil change, not 7500, 80K plugs, not 100K recommended. Ive driven about 1 million miles on 6 Taurus's, 2 break downs, AC compressor seized, and belt tensioner snapped, only one check engine light, MAP sensor on a 2004. Very few qualified mechanics can do the work IVAN does on a Subaru, Ford is much less of a hassle for maintainability.
Got a question.. when you look at trouble codes on the Verus code reader, there is a box to the right that says" fix it" what happens when you click on this box? Never seen it done.
The scanner magically fixes the car for you. I never use it because then it wouldn't be a challenge ;)
What has he NOT taken off the engine so far?
Thank you Ivan, what is the difference with torx plus? Looking forward to reassembly. Take care young fella.
Just ask Google and Wikepidia! en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torx
The internet is quite awesome ;)
Bloody hell. A Torx+ in a Japanese car? Subaru didn't secretly get into bed with VW or Ford while i wasn't watching?
Looking forward to part 4. Seems to be going pretty well so far.
zoidberg444 at least since 1999 when the 2.5 SOHC came out. I don't remember if they are on the 2.2 SOHC??
I hope you didn't pull that pin out of a granade because i'd like to see the next video😉🤣🤣
LOL Dan I survived xDDD
In Soviet Russia. The grenade pin pulls you!
man love your videos
why cant you pull dust cover off grease bearings
huh??
You actually could but those are good for 105,000 miles. If you mess up, it is behind a cover and when it comes apart, you bend valves. I just replace them. The A/C idler I do repack quite often.
Hi Ivan, I always thought Subaru engines were quality and dependable so have things changed over the years? Great video
Well...I think they took a step downhill with the introduction of the variable valve lift system around 2005.
what is the mini air ratchet you use?? seems to have great rotational speed
I got it through some connections...but Astro Tools should carry an improved version :)
Great let's do everything twice. Give me an inline 4 any day...
" BOOM! It's Krown Time! " ;)
No Subaru's will be bought in this family...... ever ever ever and oh and never!!!!
this is actually extremely simple and easy engine to work on. From what I can tell, all aluminium engines suffer from this issue. Northstar being another example. Camry 2002 and up 4cyl have a major head gasket issue that isn't even fixable because the bolt holes lose grip and there is no way to clamp down the head to the block without retaping the holes, and even that repair doesn't last. Problems show up at 70k miles. I have seen two with my own eyes, family member cars. Altimas all have the same issue. I don't know if that engine is fixable. Subaru is one of the rare ones that can be actually fixed pretty cheap and repair is permanent.
Oh Subaru, never a full moment (LOL) Peace
Ederra!
is there some damn conspiracy between car companies, bolt makers and tool companies to endlessly make up different fastener? torx plus.
patents expired on the regular torx, so other company, made the torx +, which has more lobe "grip" area. allowing for higher torque and less chance of stripping, until you use the wrong tool in them :))
possibly done on purpose to help destroy things, conspiracy theory who knows, they do grip better with the right tool in them.
Grenade pin 😎 🤣🤣
Oh Subaru why I would never own one.😁
Overall they are very versatile vehicles, and fun to drive with the 5-speed. They do have their issues with head gaskets and rust though. There is no "perfect" vehicle haha
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Yeah your right there is no perfect vehicle. I think that started happening after 1969 didn't it . 😁
Good video and very informative - what I'd say that i would never buy a Subaru - engine bay layout is absolutely insane and the engine itself is freaking sick - why do people buy this piece of mechanical experiment..
you'd absolutely love a "turbo charged" model if you think that's bad :))
It seems that here in Russia so many 'smartheads' are obsessed with this brand... And turbocharged in particular. Hmmm weird people if not to say dimwitted. Ivan great thanks for showing us this 'gem' from inside.
I wouldn't wish that job on the anyone.
Timing belts, I hope that they all go the way of the dinosaur.
George Travers I agreed until I had to deal with overhead camshafts driven by chain. Ford and Mopar are the worst if you ask me.
Highlighted reply
james U - As a new car customer, fully knowing that I would have to fork out $400.00 - $600.00 for a new timing belt replacement every 60,000 miles for a 4 cylinder car, defeats the purpose of buying an economy car.
Hi james U - As a customer, buying a new or used 4 cylinder car, fully knowing that at every 60,000 miles, my new car would require a new timing belt, would defeat the purpose of buying it for economy. Because of the cost.
George Travers oh, I understand the problem. Fortunately Subaru belts are good for 105,000 miles. We used to get rid of cars at 100,000 miles. Many of today's cars if maintained will last 250,000 miles. 2 Timing belt changes!
Well, it's a toss-up. Stretched timing chains, broken guides, and collapsed tensioners are a hell of a lot more expensive to fix than changing a timing belt!!
Most over rated car.