Cool… the problem this battery is a year old… I had got this battery same time I replaced the rectifier and stator…. I know once it’s charged up, there’s no problem… think next time I might get that lithium battery..
While it’s running battery voltage should always be around 14volts never anywhere near 13 let alone 12.6 and then dropping slowly over time. When voltage is that low the bike runs off just the battery so you should prolly only take short trips cause it will cut out on you again and then won’t start up. For future reference batteries on gas vehicles only job is to start the thing then it’s up to the alternator or stator to keep it running and run everything else like lights and accessories. Then any extra voltage is what charges the battery up a small amount. Tough issue if a lot has already been replaced, not sure how to help but I’m sure some threads on the internet can help. Maybe even other videos
Thank homie!!! Definitely a great help… as you can see as well I’m confused on what it could actually be… even when I check the dealer codes, everything comes up good and no issues…. This is why every night from riding , I’ve been keeping it on the charger… I also keep a battery charging pack just in case I gotta give myself a jump. But I am totally stumped on what is cause this issue…. Thanks again homie….
07 gsxr 600 here. Same issue after replacing the stator and rectifier. Both are new from Rick’s Motorsports. New battery, new stator, new rectifier. But idle voltage shows around 12V and slowly drops while idling. Checked my stator at the wire coupler with a multimeter. Continuity between the 3 wires checked out. But only 2 of 3 pairs of wires showed voltage. I ordered these parts around the same time this vid is posted. My guess is Rick’s stators had a bad batch. I got a new one comin, hopefully that solves the issue. I suggest you do the same. Test the stator at the wire coupler for continuity between the 3 wires . Wires 1-2, wires 2-3, wires 1-3. If all 3 pairs have continuity, check AC voltage between the 3 pairs with the bike running. They should all show similar voltages. If not, your stator is bad. Send that shi back and order a new one. Hope this helps.
bro!!!!! Im about to check right now!!! man holy shit... I swear it was like you are speaking for me... cause this is the exact same situation ..... the only issue is Im not sure if they will take it back... its just been a year in February.... I have been dealing with this issue for over a year now... I never really thought about it, cause every night its been on the battery tender, until one night I forgot to plug it up and the next day it died on me... but soon as the battery was charged she started right back up... But you are right , everything being new, I shouldn't be having these issues or have to keep it on a battery tender every night.
Yeh the website says it’s covered under one year warranty. You might be able to make sumn work with customer service though. But definitely test that stator first, make sure it’s the issue before sending it back because they don’t cover return shipping. It could very well be a bad rectifier or the wiring harness. Or it could be a faulty new battery. You never know till you start testing and knocking em out one by one. Mine just happened to be because of the stator.
@@Rickyclark A lil update for ya, new stator came in & old stator has been swapped out. Voltage at the battery with ignition off is now hovering 13 volts. Voltage at the battery when idling hovers around 14 volts. In the end, I found out it was user error. The stator wires lead to a rubber grommet that clips onto the stator cover which happens to sit very close to one of the gears. When installing the stator, I accidentally left too much slack & upon start up, the gears shredded two of the wires apart. So thats another thing to be considered. Not sure why they placed a rotating gear and some wires so close to each other, but they did. If your stator tests don’t pass, get that shi swapped. And when doing so, make sure there is damn near zero slack on the wires on the inside of the stator cover. Also make sure the wires sit flush on the stator cover with the wire clip fully seated. Hope this extra info helps brother.
@@Kayk_kay yea that makes no sense at all… wires next to the gears.. Suzuki really messed up with that…. And I’m not sure why they would put the rectifier right behind the radiator and in front of the headers (damn near the hottest part of the bike)…. There’s no wire slack from the stator.. (just checked that). When I tested the rectifier and stator they seemed to be ok…. I’m starting to think i got a defective battery…. Bro I thank you for this update… I’ll be waiting to see you bending some corners soon too.. lol… make sure ya post some vids …
The battery reading the right voltage bro an batteries are tough unless suntin is drainin it. I would back probe the stator see what thats puttin out den hit the rectifier. What brand is the stator n rectifier because alotta those work for a minute and start to fuck up periodically like what u seeing until it fails completely. Had to get a tow from the Eastside for this same reason I'll upload the footage
And for shits n giggles bro zip tie kickstand switch jus to check that off. The kickstand spring sometimes go weak and bumps cause it to lose contact from the switch for a second then turn back on
Ok cool, I’ll see what the voltage is putting out with the stator… I got both OEM stator and rectifier from Rick’s Motorsports… I am assuming the OEM brand is the same as Suzuki recommends… I’m wondering if the battery could have a bad cell or something… I do keep a portable battery jumper just in case I get stranded…. Yea bro upload that footage
@@ToolieFreek Yea homie... Im so confused... and the battery tender is supposed to keep it from over charging too.... but I am just gonna buy a new battery and see... since the battery is the cheapest between the stator and rectifier .. Ill start there ... but im still gon ride out... lol... just keep her plugged until that battery come in.. lol..
I had the same and got a new battery. Get a new battery you good homie. Trust me.
Cool… the problem this battery is a year old… I had got this battery same time I replaced the rectifier and stator…. I know once it’s charged up, there’s no problem… think next time I might get that lithium battery..
While it’s running battery voltage should always be around 14volts never anywhere near 13 let alone 12.6 and then dropping slowly over time. When voltage is that low the bike runs off just the battery so you should prolly only take short trips cause it will cut out on you again and then won’t start up. For future reference batteries on gas vehicles only job is to start the thing then it’s up to the alternator or stator to keep it running and run everything else like lights and accessories. Then any extra voltage is what charges the battery up a small amount. Tough issue if a lot has already been replaced, not sure how to help but I’m sure some threads on the internet can help. Maybe even other videos
Thank homie!!! Definitely a great help… as you can see as well I’m confused on what it could actually be… even when I check the dealer codes, everything comes up good and no issues…. This is why every night from riding , I’ve been keeping it on the charger… I also keep a battery charging pack just in case I gotta give myself a jump. But I am totally stumped on what is cause this issue…. Thanks again homie….
Factual 💯
@@Rickyclark let’s go Rick we outside today 🫵🏽👍🏽💯🫡
@@Rrshane lol… man I wish I was… I only got until 1pm until I go into work… yall boys twist the throttle one time for me … lol ride safe!!! Salute.
07 gsxr 600 here.
Same issue after replacing the stator and rectifier. Both are new from Rick’s Motorsports. New battery, new stator, new rectifier. But idle voltage shows around 12V and slowly drops while idling.
Checked my stator at the wire coupler with a multimeter. Continuity between the 3 wires checked out. But only 2 of 3 pairs of wires showed voltage. I ordered these parts around the same time this vid is posted. My guess is Rick’s stators had a bad batch. I got a new one comin, hopefully that solves the issue.
I suggest you do the same. Test the stator at the wire coupler for continuity between the 3 wires . Wires 1-2, wires 2-3, wires 1-3. If all 3 pairs have continuity, check AC voltage between the 3 pairs with the bike running. They should all show similar voltages. If not, your stator is bad. Send that shi back and order a new one.
Hope this helps.
bro!!!!! Im about to check right now!!! man holy shit... I swear it was like you are speaking for me... cause this is the exact same situation ..... the only issue is Im not sure if they will take it back... its just been a year in February.... I have been dealing with this issue for over a year now... I never really thought about it, cause every night its been on the battery tender, until one night I forgot to plug it up and the next day it died on me... but soon as the battery was charged she started right back up... But you are right , everything being new, I shouldn't be having these issues or have to keep it on a battery tender every night.
Yeh the website says it’s covered under one year warranty. You might be able to make sumn work with customer service though.
But definitely test that stator first, make sure it’s the issue before sending it back because they don’t cover return shipping. It could very well be a bad rectifier or the wiring harness. Or it could be a faulty new battery. You never know till you start testing and knocking em out one by one.
Mine just happened to be because of the stator.
@@Kayk_kay COOL!... Im on it... I will keep ya posted... thanks homie.. salute
@@Rickyclark A lil update for ya, new stator came in & old stator has been swapped out.
Voltage at the battery with ignition off is now hovering 13 volts. Voltage at the battery when idling hovers around 14 volts.
In the end, I found out it was user error. The stator wires lead to a rubber grommet that clips onto the stator cover which happens to sit very close to one of the gears.
When installing the stator, I accidentally left too much slack & upon start up, the gears shredded two of the wires apart.
So thats another thing to be considered. Not sure why they placed a rotating gear and some wires so close to each other, but they did.
If your stator tests don’t pass, get that shi swapped. And when doing so, make sure there is damn near zero slack on the wires on the inside of the stator cover. Also make sure the wires sit flush on the stator cover with the wire clip fully seated.
Hope this extra info helps brother.
@@Kayk_kay yea that makes no sense at all… wires next to the gears.. Suzuki really messed up with that…. And I’m not sure why they would put the rectifier right behind the radiator and in front of the headers (damn near the hottest part of the bike)….
There’s no wire slack from the stator.. (just checked that). When I tested the rectifier and stator they seemed to be ok…. I’m starting to think i got a defective battery….
Bro I thank you for this update… I’ll be waiting to see you bending some corners soon too.. lol… make sure ya post some vids …
The battery reading the right voltage bro an batteries are tough unless suntin is drainin it. I would back probe the stator see what thats puttin out den hit the rectifier. What brand is the stator n rectifier because alotta those work for a minute and start to fuck up periodically like what u seeing until it fails completely. Had to get a tow from the Eastside for this same reason I'll upload the footage
And for shits n giggles bro zip tie kickstand switch jus to check that off. The kickstand spring sometimes go weak and bumps cause it to lose contact from the switch for a second then turn back on
Ok cool, I’ll see what the voltage is putting out with the stator… I got both OEM stator and rectifier from Rick’s Motorsports… I am assuming the OEM brand is the same as Suzuki recommends… I’m wondering if the battery could have a bad cell or something… I do keep a portable battery jumper just in case I get stranded…. Yea bro upload that footage
@@ToolieFreek ok, I’m on it… shit I’ll try anything lol
@@Rickyclark faxts faxts I didn't think about that cell maybe it went bad from over charge? She got me scratchin my head bro lol
@@ToolieFreek Yea homie... Im so confused... and the battery tender is supposed to keep it from over charging too.... but I am just gonna buy a new battery and see... since the battery is the cheapest between the stator and rectifier .. Ill start there ... but im still gon ride out... lol... just keep her plugged until that battery come in.. lol..