Stropping and Honing Compound Guide for Leather Strops
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- Опубликовано: 23 авг 2021
- Navigating the world of stropping compound, honing compound, and lapping compound can be confusing if you are new to sharpening your knives. This video goes over one of the biggest misconceptions that will confuse many people when picking the right honing compound for their tools.
For a complete stopping compound color guide, check out carvingisfun.com/compound
00:16 - Green stropping compound grit
01:20 - Different Stropping Compounds
02:21 - Stropping compound comparison
02:49 - What color stropping compound to use
04:26 - Different Color Stropping Compounds
05:39 - Tips for beginners
Beavercraft leather strop with compound:
Amazon Link - amzn.to/3oBHwaf
Flexcut leather strop with compound:
Amazon Link - amzn.to/30ywP0k
Helvie leather strop with compound:
helvieknives.com/collections/...
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For a complete stopping compound color guide, check out carvingisfun.com/compound
Beavercraft leather strop with compound:
Amazon Link - amzn.to/3oBHwaf
Flexcut leather strop with compound:
Amazon Link - amzn.to/30ywP0k
If you want to give me a gift as a thank you, you can send me some Pokemon cards! I've been collecting them since they came out and always enjoy getting new cards!
You can use my Amazon Wish List to send me a booster pack or two :) www.amazon.com/hz/wishlist/ls/1ZTOOLYLZ7C48
It is absolutely incredible the amount of information you compile to share with others. Thank you. Definitely love the content.
Thanks!!! I'm glad you are finding it helpful 😀
Thank you very much for all the useful tips and for sharing that page with all the companies/different grits🤘
Breaking that down on your website is SO nice. There has always been a lot of mystery around the brands and grits. THANK YOU
You're welcome! There are still a few more I wish to add, like Flexcut, but I need to send out emails to get that info I think.
Whilst abroad on holiday I found myself unexpectedly needing to sharpen some chisels and a plane. Honing with the tool-owner's stones was no problem, but stropping was entirely lost on him, and on all of the local DIY outlets. Eventually, I used toothpaste on some MDF, and it worked an absolute treat. So, I'm looking forward to your video where you compare toothpaste with Brasso and paint-cutting compounds such as T Cut.
Ha!!!!
That actually sounds kinda fun :)
Thanks as someone getting into carving this was really helpful orrderd one should be here tomorrow
Perfect! Glad you were able to put the information to use! Have fun :)
Very informative for beginners! 👌 Excellent!
Thanks!
Very helpful. Thank you.
I didn't expect to see this many options 🤣🤣 thanks
Thanks, man. The grits and compounds vs CBN and Diamond Emulsions can get really confusing.
Bonsoir Brian, je profite de mon immobilité forcée pour enrichir mes connaissances en regardant tes vidéos. Le stropping jaune livré avec les 3 couteaux Flexcut est idéal pour le niveau de sculptrice que je suis. Merci de tous ces renseignements non moins utiles.
Great video
Regarding the Bark River compounds: there are very few edges or steels in which I can tell any difference between the green and white compounds, so I typically only use the black and green (coming off a 2K Chosera). This suits me just fine because the white bar I have is so dry and hard and chalky that it's difficult to apply to the strop. It seems tailor made for a buffing wheel, rather than a strop.
Beaver craft needs to post your video on their channel
There's a compound called Zam that I've been using for over 30 years on strips and buffing wheels, works great and doesn't cost much. Add it to your list. Good video.
Will do! I'll research it and add it, thanks :)
Great content 👍👍👏
Thanks!
One would think that the industry would have grit ranges per color, not all of them different colors and different grits. But NOOOOOOOO! that would be too easy...
I hear ya!!
Found what i was trying to figure out 😂❤
I have the DIALUX green one for my strop
(Straight razors)
Carving is fun I use smurf poo being blue it’s easy to find can be got in block or past 🇮🇹🇬🇧🦊🐾
Great video. Question for you. I started getting into spoon carving. Do you know if the flexcut right handed hook knife works well or do I have to have a sloyd style knife? I was hoping the right handed hook knife would be good to save some money.
Keep up the videos. Learned a lot here.
Howdy!
While I haven't used flexcuts sloyd style hook knife personally, I know the right handed hook knife will get the job done. I've used a similar right handed hook knife in the spoon jack pocket knife and it a great choice to get started.
The primary benefits you may get from the sloyd style hook knife is more cutting surface and a more comfortable handle for carving with.
Personally, I use my OCC tools variants with a similar hook knife to the flexcut right handed hook knife to great effect.
What strop/compound would you recommend for honing a S35vn or M390 knife that has started becoming dull (cannot cut throw paper smoothly anymore and gets hung up)?
You will most likely need to take it to a stone first and reshape the edge. Then finish it up on a strop with 3k to 6k grit to hone it sharp and remove the burr.
@@CarvingisFun what stones do you recommend for these steels mentioned above? I saw another video of a guy having good luck with stropping with tormek compound on a flat strop for finishing touch followed by a finer diamond spray.
Each person will have their own process, and it will vary with the desired edge. For me, if it will no longer cut paper, I would take it to a 1k grit stone, then a 2k grit stone, and finish it up on a leather strop with a 3k to 6k grit or equivalent compound.
nice and informative. so here's my two questions:
1. For me... i have a sharpmaker with diamond, grey and white rods. I also have a KnivesPlus stropping block with preloaded green (chromium oxide) that is approx. 0.75 micron. So, IF I didn't want to pull out the sharpmaker, and I used a double sided stropping block with 28 micron one side, 7 micron other side (such as BeaverCraft or Hutsuls) then\\ my KP block, would that bring an edge back that is almost in need of sharpening? My knives are Aogami Blue #2, and one is VG10
2. For my daughter, who doesn't have any sharpening system at all, but also has a Gihei Blue #2 Santoku, would my method described about with two stroping levels, (28, then 7 micron) keep her knife sharp?
Good question! I can only go by my own experiences but here we go:
For me, I use my strops with compounds to maintain my edge during and after use. Since I don't suddenly hit my edges on anything super hard (like a cutting board after cutting through something without slicing) it is rare that I need to take my edge to anything more than a strop. So your setup with the 28 and 7 micron will suffice for general maintenance if properly handled.
Now if your edge is chipped, blunted, and/or rolled in spots, a strop will not do what you need. Since it looks like you are primarily using kitchen knives (beautiful knives by the way, love them) if you aren't slicing through your product and just pushing down so the edge thuds against a cutting board (again assuming here) then there is a higher chance that blunting or damage could occur to the blade requiring occasional stone/rod work to recover the edge.
But my belief and experience is proper slicing techniques will allow you to just use a strop to maintain the edge 90% of the time and every so often (every 4-6 months with my kitchen cutlery) take it to a stone to remove any minor chips and blunt spots as they occur. I do have the advantage of having a power strop loaded with chromium oxide so stropping every so often is a breeze for me and quickly recovers my edge compared to that of doing it by hand.
@@CarvingisFun thanks. I have heard of super soft butcher blocks, so for my daughter who would have only stropping blocks, I'm going to research and get her one.
I ordered the Beavercraft leather strop with 2 compound, white and green. But instead of the green compound, they sent me a gray one. I couldn't find anything online about beavercraft's gray compound. Do you know what grit it could be?
Beavercraft kinda updated their formula a bit and the grey one is actually the equivalent to the green. I think at one point it was green but the color faded or something.
@@CarvingisFun thanks for the quick reply. I was kinda confused when I found the gray one 😬
I started recently and your videos have been really great for a newbie like me
Keep up the good work 😁
The stroping compound that came with my strop is the black 2000 grit or whatever, is it gg??
I think it will get the job done. I use to only finish my blades off with 2k sandpaper and it was plenty sharp.
great just figured out that... i was stropping with a 3k grit.. after sharpening on a 6k grit... is it really worth it to strop at this point?
Naw, if your whittling there's really no need to go past stropping or after hitting with a super fine stone. You really wont notice a difference.
But I do prefer the strop as I dont have to prep it, just pick up and go
Hi there! I'm trying to get a gift for someone with a chisel set and no way to sharpen them, can this method work with chisels? Thank you!
If the chisel is damaged or dull it will have to be worked on with a sharpening stone, the strops are primarily for honing the edge and to help maintain a sharp edge
What are the abrasives
Using the Beavercraft stroping compound on a brand new strop, 1 which side should I use? I’ve seen videos using both sides. 2 How much compound should I start with? Again I’ve seen several videos showing a little and the sane with alot. I’m so confused.
Either side is fine, but the smooth side is harder to apply to while thr rough side is easier.
Ive seen thr ones where people put a very small amount on and also cake it on as well. You really only need to cover the surface of the strop and it doest take much compound to get the job done.
I agree to go with the rough side for compound and consider a smooth side strop as a finisher with nothing on it.
I recently bought the BeaverCraft leather strop but have problems getting the compound to stick to the leather. I've tried rubbing the compound on both sides of the leather but neither stay on.
Does anyone have a suggestion of what I can do or what I may be doing wrong please?
The newer compound is a little more chalky compared to the waxy versions from before. Still, you don't need a lot on the strop to get the job done, a thin layer where you can still see the leather will suffice.
Also, when in doubt, use a heat source like a heat gun or even sitting out in the sun to help melt the wax.
Thanks for the help, really appreciated.
I started using a paste and like it a lot. It is messy and probably more wasteful. Don't think I want to hone a spokeshave or drawknife a different way now though.
Nothing wrong with that!
If you find a way to hone your tools that you are comfortable with and enjoy using, keep using it :)
@@CarvingisFun I've been applying it straight to a piece of wood and putting that in a vise. Seems to work very quickly. My spokeshave iron/blade is old and has screws attached to it. So my strop has to fit inside otherwise the bevel is impossible to sharpen.
Do you have any interest in vintage hand tools and other kinds of wood working?
I'm always interested in trying out new/old tools and have plans on expanding my wood carving experience.
@@CarvingisFun that is very exciting man. You can message me on Instagram if you need any help. Good luck buddy.
🤠👍
Question from a newbie: Of the various products out there, how common is it for a stropping compound to pose some level of health risk?
From my perspective, the wax bars are low to none. Still, I am no health expert and your own research is required.
Now, if you were to use the paste stuff or the loose powder it could be higher cus it could be inhailed.
@@CarvingisFun Thank you for your thoughts on that. How does one apply the wax bars? Do you just rub it on the leather, like a crayon?
@kit2770 Basically, yes, I also give some direction in this video ruclips.net/video/5Tt3K-kXhJc/видео.html
@@CarvingisFun Thank you.
don't you wash your knifes after stropping with soap and a scrub?
i am a beginner i dont wood cove i just want my knife's sharp as a razor what compound should i use thanks
Anything with a grit between 3000 and 6000 will get the job done for ya. Beavercraft green or bark river green are good choices
@@CarvingisFun i just ordered the strop on a block and the green compound from home depot i hope this is what you was showing on video
You should be fine :)
@@CarvingisFun thanks again
My dad used to be with the CIA when he was in the military and he gave me his knife and he told me that his knife was, well for regular person it’s illegally sharp for them to have , I don’t know how true that is? I have heard that only cops military personnel are the only ones that should have, it was called OSS before they changed the name to CIA , guess it was G2 where my dad would talk and get information out of the German Soldiers in the war he knew five languages
everytime i order beavercraft compound from amazon it always comes grey and moldy looking... so i keep returning it
Ya, they changed their formula. Its a bit grey and chalky now. Im on the lookout for a good replacement
I'll stick with beaver crap compound. Thanks!
Its what I primarily use :)
It's not that complicated. it's some form of abrasive suspended in some form of carrier. In these cases it's alumina suspended in basically nasty wax. You're much better off going with CBN or Diamond and having in straight powder or suspended in some better forms that work better depending on the application. The real nuance is what surface do you strop on for what purpose? And what grit abrasive for a given purpose. The concentration of abrasive also has a huge impact. Some of these modern compounds contain 50% or more abrasive.
watch it at 1.5 speed.
you’re welcome
Lol, I second this! Do it!
Holy shit this is needlesly complicated. I though this shit was color coded and standardized, least close to grits. Makes getting more polish for your average big box store polishing kit nightmare...
I thought the same thing too and then was getting confused on why one was less effective than another. It's literally all over the place with no standardization.
Keep the same, next thing he does is break out shitload of other colors😆🤦♂️
I find honing oil works the best for me.