That little 2M resistor isn't going to be 2M with 10+kV across it - a resistor that size is only rated for 2-300V - at high voltages, it will arc across the spiral cut in the carbon film, so chances are the actual voltage was a lot lower
AvE can measure the resistor, which doubtlessly is still sitting on his bench, to check for this. If it shorted out, that's a one-way trip for the resistor and it will not somehow heal itself.
We got a few of these about a month ago and the biggest problem is like you mentioned, after a few of the visitors have been blessed by the sparky end the pads start to rust. The bigger ones also wise up and avoid it after a few of their buddies go into the thunder dome…
I don't want to have to dispose of the dead mouse. It needs a 100kJ pulse capacitor so the mouse gets completely vaporized. That will also provide a nice audio alert to anyone with in a kilometer or so.
I want one of those but for some pesky hairless apes that like to chew on locks and steal important stuff that took lots of hard work to get. I guess an equivalent size would be a couple of GJ of energy. Mm I guess a rapidly expanding cloud of plasma/vaporized ape might be a bit destructive to my shed.
30 years of electronics, including 2 years of vocational highschool, and i don't remember ever having seen that voltage divider mnemonic. i learn so much from my neighbors to the south -- much love from alaska
I took an alternate approach with mine. I have some of those stun gun coils, so I use one of those, triggered by a proximity sensor (IR reflective) going through a cheap arduino-type board. When it senses Mr. Mouse, it fires the coil for 5 seconds. Then it plays a happy tune on a piezo speaker to remind me to clean out the carcass before it starts to rot. I've done others in the past with ESP8266 boards, just so I can have it send my phone a message. Good for when you put the trap in some out of the way location that's not convenient to access to check.
Bought that exact Victor about 6-7 years ago. Works great! Except for the blinky light. It's supposed to blink green every (whatever-it-is) to show it's alive, but it doesn't anymore. Pretty sure the red one still blinks after a zapification. Found that peanut butter placed right by the dots/grill works well as an attractant.
Electrophysiology Nurse here, common misconception that arrhythmias are heart attacks. People who have heart attacks (acute coronary artery blockages) can develop lethal arrhythmias like ventricular fibrillation if the damage is bad. But this is closer to implantable cardiac defibrillator testing where we intentionally either deliver 80hz or a synchronized DC shock during the cardiac cycle to put people into VF, watch the device detect and treat them (shock them) to ensure their ICD works.
Fascinating. Thank you for the detailed explanation. I knew, already, about the defib causing VF to allow for CPR in the field but using it for testing an ICD is something I hadn't though of.
It’s the weird shit we do in the controlled setting of the procedure labs. It’s fallen out of vogue as of the past 5 years since the tech and first time shock success rates are pretty good. Google St Jude Medical’s “DC Fibber” induction protocol. The bastards even trademarked it.
I used one of these years ago, I'll never forget the sound it made when a freeloading mouse found his way inside while I was watching TV. A quick electrical crack sound followed by an abbreviated mouse squeal. Amazing how science can take a couple AA batteries and use them to make a mouse go see mouse Jesus.
Had two stubborn mice this spring that wouldn't leave. Tried two of those Victor electronic traps, no bueno. Got the old style Victor traps with the metal bait plate. Peanut butter, snapped them both within a couple hours. They would not go in the electronic trap. I also have one of those slip and slide bucket traps. Marine antifreeze and water in the bucket. Usually empty 10 or so mice out of the bucket every spring
Made something similar for zapping cockroaches. A 5K volt magnetron power supply running off 24 VDC. Wired it up to a PCB with a ring etched in it. They never knew what hit them.
I used to deliver bread. Peanut butter and a sprinkling of sesame seeds was the perfect bait for my trap line. A 40' trailer full of freshly baked bread, and they would always go for the sesame bread, and the hamburger buns, if I didn't provide tastier bait. The ravens would visit me most mornings for breakfast.
I have two of these and love them. Worked perfectly. I like the fact that I'm relieved of the necessity to remove a crushed and bloody rodent from a conventional mouse trap.
(1) emphasis on 10 “KILLA-VOLTS”… (2) a review and tear-down that touches on both product design and functional performance, along w/ electrical engineering and biology! (3) The old fashioned bait and squish approach (if/when rarely needed) works just fine for me…
That immediately reminded me of some videos I used to watch back in the heyday of YT. Where a guy had massive electric grid capacitors, and would discharge then into watermelons and the like... 😅 I should try and locate that channel again! _[edit: Kizmox seems to be it]_ I recently re-stumbled upon the ancient channel of the crazy Aussie - fittingly named Aussie50 - who would bring old washing machines back from the scrapyard and rig them back to life, only to throw in seriously heavy objects to rattle themselves to death... Washers jumping around a back yard is quite a site! 🤣
What beauty lives in the old classic springloaded mousetraps.. Some beech wood and some wire - good to work for a whole century without any charging and electronics involved!
I have a different brand/model but they do work great. Mine uses 2 IR sensors, one to arm and one to fire. Pretty cool device for the $27 or so I paid for it. Cheers 🍻
Just like the auto/ machinery industry, they make fancy stuff that doesn't need to be fancy and charge more money. That contraption was designed to shield the dirty deed behind a vail and involve technology so they can charge more. I prefer the satisfying " Snap" in the quiet of nighttime. Gotcha!
5 gallon bucket, 14 inch wooden dowel 1/2" diameter, 6" of 1 inch diameter pvc pipe and some peanut butter works better than any other mouse trap I've ever seen. Place the dowel through the pvc pipe, then tape the dowel across the top of the bucket, add peanut butter to the pvc pipe and a small board ramp to the top of the bucket. Mouse climbs up, runs across the dowel, hits the pvc pipe, which rotates dropping him into the bucket. Live trap if bucket is empty, dead trap if half full of water. Caught 23 mice in two days once, let em all go in the woods and no more mouse problem.
I live in Lititz Pa. Woodstream has beed here for over 100 years. Still building traps in town today. At one point they made the biggest and best bear traps.Still a great company to work for.
Trick I learned about years ago from an ancient (pre geocities!) teslacoiler site is to use your meter's input impedance as the lower resistor of a voltage divider. Use a sufficiently large external resistor to get the ratio you want, and you have a very low parts count, super high impedance high voltage probe/meter. Most digital multimeters have a 10M input impedance, so putting a 90M or 900M or 9Gohm resistor in series will get you a 10x,100x, or 1000x probe. If you're feeling paranoid, you could also put a simple neon bulb (no resistor) across your meter to protect it from overvoltage, as most neon lamps don't start conducting until over 100vdc. yes, it will have a leakage current, but from the info I could find, if you use a standard NE-2 or equivalent, the worst cast error is about 1% when used on a 1000x divider, proportionally less error for 100x or 10x dividers. Since the meter impedance is not a controlled parameter, its accuracy is going to be significantly less than whatever error an NE-2 would add.
I remember looking into which traps would be quickest with the least pain, and it came down to "really good snap traps". I MIGHT be able to move them to a park, but in the winter that's also a slow death. I say this because I THOUGHT, based on Shawn Woods' videos, that an electric trap like this might be more humane. I actually reached out to the manufacturer to confirm the average time-to-death; they misunderstood the question and confirmed that the active time had been *increased* to make sure it worked on newer models, meaning they could just be sitting there for an extra 30 seconds. On glue traps they just panick to death. Poison they're generally in pain for up to 4 days. The only instant mouse-deleter I could find was $1k and was basically a cow-killer running on CO2 charges. So right now when I need to it's the big, heavy plastic snap traps with teeth.
I've found the 2 best traps are: bucket with water in it (otherwise they can actually manage to jump out, despite the lid)... and the little tunnels that just trap them. the bucket is great because they fall in, it can capture a bunch. the tunnels are great because you can place them along edges of things where mice to to run, and they get baited right in. but they can only catch one at a time.. but possibly better because they can be placed along where the mice like to run. there's also a guy who has a channel dedicated to mouse traps of all sorts. he found a shallow bowl with peanut oil in it is also very good. they mice can't jump out because of the oil, they like the smell, and it can catch many overnight.
Happy Friday! Perfect way to spend a soggy night. Thank you for this video! I bought Amaschlong mouse cooker about mouse cooker about 2 years ago(works well) and you just covered everything i wanted to know. Due to life and not feeling good, i i didnt open mine so thank you for your video! 😊 😊😊 😊❤
Thank you, AVE. I now understand,…something….about….what was the topic again? Never mind. I’m sure it will come in handy one of these days, whatever it was…..now where did I set my beer down?…..lol
We use the owltra traps. They use 2 electric eyes to detect the target. First to arm the kill system, and the second to trigger it. Duration is 30 seconds on, and you can hear it from across the room when it hits. Batteries last forever depending on how many mice come a calling, usually 6 or more months.
The bucket trap is the best rat trap. Only problem that happens to that is it fills up With carcasses and they jump out. If you don't dump it I had one of the yard that amazed me. But I didn't buy that fancy lead thing. I just put pearlite like is in potting soil On top of about 8 inches of water in a 5 gallon bucket then smear some peanut butter around the top of the water line and if you want a supercharger it put some sesame seed oil in there put a little ramp up to the side. They jump right in and it's pretty humane they don't last very long in there about 30 seconds
The tom cat press and set crusher traps work best in my opinion. Hair trigger works when the old victor traps fail. The one here is nice if you dont want to see the dead mouse, though. I'll give it that.
lititz PA, my hometown... great small town in amish country, always loved that their largest industry is killin mice. (when I was a kid, they still MADE them in lititz)
Had a bad year for mice last winter. Set dozens of snap traps, and one day checking them I find two mice snapped in one trap. So I thought about it a minute and I think I can say, a fella might want to be careful who he shares a meal with.
These exist with GSM modules so it can send a text sms when fired, some are even with WiFi so you can monitor your killing machines, some are with elevators that lift the dead up and into a bin, return and rearm and on you go.
My great grandpa had a "fry the mouse" trap. Two plates hardwired to a 120 outlet, a bakelite case that did nothing to keep your fingers out of it, and a place to put the cheese. Not even homemade! Never tested it versus the modern ones, or at all--didn't want to set the house on fire.
I bought that same trap, and have caught lots of mice with it. I use ol victor spring traps too, but tried this one to see how well it works. The nice thing is, if the mice go for the bait, they never escape. I do lose some with the spring traps
Having used these quite a bit as well as the larger rat traps. I got rid of the baffles at the entrance by hacksawing then out because i saw 4-5 times more small mice caught in the rat version which has a huge opening with only a small hump in the top of it. Immediately after hacksawing it off i saw an increase. The mice seems hesitant to squeeze in. Ofcourse your mile may vary and you do what you wish as your mice may be different than the ones here. Regarding not killing you yes it can but unlikely. that trap works by as you say creating AC and it kills a nice by elecrocuting them for an minutes so that heart and breathing is completely disrupted. Having gotten shocked by the rat sized one i can say the muscle spasms are very realaxross my hand, however with the design it is almost impossible to get a path passing your heart AND the spasms causing a hold onto grip of the plates unless you REALLY try.
You didn't point it out, but the plastic tab on the right hand side (critter side) has a tab on the cover that disables the zap when the mouse removal cover is opened, so you cannot shock yourself. Would not have received the CE mark if it was possible to hurt yourself that way.
I've got the big brother to that one kicking around somewhere. The Rat Zapper. Never did catch any rats with it, but it did do a number on a few deer mice. The house I was renting at the time had a dirt crawlspace with no access that I ever found, it must have been a rat haven down there. Glue traps are we the awful, but effective solution until I got the hell out of there. It was a losing battle.
the bent strip of sheet metal forming the bridge from one module to the other is going to fail after a while, and it does all corrode, eventually i found adding some extra negative enforcement helps, rodents apparently understand velocity, impact, and percussion as a serious immanent threat, an explosive bb and they can't get the f*** out of dodge quick enough, and tend to hold that association and avoid the vicinity rather than just the traps. less passive but cathartic
5:59 clearly one HE made in his basement 😉 Not sure if it is still around but there used to be a YT channel that was different mousetrap designs. Like "better mouse trap" or something like that. It was wild how many he made.
Wtf, so you had a device made of just wood an iron an replace it by something made with microcontrollers, rare earth's, heavy metals and plastic just to do the exact same job?!
I set out a 6 pack of wood/iron traps and caught nothing for 2 weeks, got a 2 pack of these and both immediately made catches every night using the same bait. Maybe it's the lil tunnel leading in they like but it's also many times cleaner of a kill whereas the metal ones don't always finish the job
@@Onewheelordeal - so place a mechanical strangulation device / bris device down a long tortuous path - voila similar result you still have to take out the trash after all is said and done (clockwork dump and reset versions are a better mousetrap)....
@@Onewheelordeal Sometimes they are a bit rough when cutting the trigger bars on snap traps. I always pass a file over the end of that trigger to remove any burrs that can resist it from snapping. They work pretty well for me once I do that.
![Hunxho - Ball Forever [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nki9ZTF9Uls/mqdefault.jpg)
That little 2M resistor isn't going to be 2M with 10+kV across it - a resistor that size is only rated for 2-300V - at high voltages, it will arc across the spiral cut in the carbon film, so chances are the actual voltage was a lot lower
I didn't think of that, thanks Mike!
There is no load on it.
@@arduinoversusevil2025kwee-ess-cint.
AvE can measure the resistor, which doubtlessly is still sitting on his bench, to check for this. If it shorted out, that's a one-way trip for the resistor and it will not somehow heal itself.
@@mriguy3202But would the arcing permanently short it out?
We got a few of these about a month ago and the biggest problem is like you mentioned, after a few of the visitors have been blessed by the sparky end the pads start to rust. The bigger ones also wise up and avoid it after a few of their buddies go into the thunder dome…
One mouse enters, no mouse leaves...
the thunder dome lol
maybe spray the pads with cooking oil (or brake clean)
Worse than the rust is when you forget to check it. After a week it’ll turn itself back on fry the dead mouse. Removing it after that is not fun.
@@mocrank5314 I think brake clean might solve my melty mouse skin issue. Thanks
Getting back to old-school tear down vidjas. I like it.
I don't want to have to dispose of the dead mouse. It needs a 100kJ pulse capacitor so the mouse gets completely vaporized. That will also provide a nice audio alert to anyone with in a kilometer or so.
Great idea
Or a flux capacitor
Coat the inside with BBQ sauce and turn up the juice and you might end up with a kabob!
I want one of those but for some pesky hairless apes that like to chew on locks and steal important stuff that took lots of hard work to get. I guess an equivalent size would be a couple of GJ of energy. Mm I guess a rapidly expanding cloud of plasma/vaporized ape might be a bit destructive to my shed.
3:20 Thank you for using the word plethora; it means a lot to me.
The mouse should be content that he was killed by science and not some random happening.
You do what you must, because you can.
Safe and effective!
Funny that was my first thought as well@@GreenIllness
@@aerogfsfor the good of all of us. Except the ones who are dead.
He had the most exciting life.
Worst fleshlite ever............ :P
dont stick your pee pee in there🤣
Well it’s better than the one my dad made me hold
You just know that sometime, somewhere, somebody has said hold my beer.
See similar to: "dick in a light socket"
I stick with my dirty dick beaters
Holy crap, a BOLTR after a 5 year hiatus....
Was it that long? I can't remember...
I might be tired and having a joke fly way over my head, but the last boltr was like a yearish ago wasn't it?
30 years of electronics, including 2 years of vocational highschool, and i don't remember ever having seen that voltage divider mnemonic. i learn so much from my neighbors to the south -- much love from alaska
A new BOLTR always gets me giddy
Amen
What does BOLTR stand for, please?
Bored of Lame Tool Reviews... Ave was annoyed by the 'feels good in the hand' kind of reviews.
@@melissachartres3219 good question, its just AvE’s tool breakdown and reviews.
@@tacomike323 Thanks kindly for the quick response.
I took an alternate approach with mine. I have some of those stun gun coils, so I use one of those, triggered by a proximity sensor (IR reflective) going through a cheap arduino-type board. When it senses Mr. Mouse, it fires the coil for 5 seconds. Then it plays a happy tune on a piezo speaker to remind me to clean out the carcass before it starts to rot. I've done others in the past with ESP8266 boards, just so I can have it send my phone a message. Good for when you put the trap in some out of the way location that's not convenient to access to check.
So basically, an unregulated AED
Scanning….,Do not touch mouse….shock advised……stand clear……do not touch mouse……
Bought that exact Victor about 6-7 years ago. Works great! Except for the blinky light. It's supposed to blink green every (whatever-it-is) to show it's alive, but it doesn't anymore. Pretty sure the red one still blinks after a zapification.
Found that peanut butter placed right by the dots/grill works well as an attractant.
Peanut butter and some rolled oats works great for mouse bate.
Nutella works great too
@@lorenrickey5481 - fuck that. No damn mouse is eating better ‘n me. ;)
The kill-a-volts really hertz the mouse.
Too funny
Can we get a three phase version for the bigger mice?
The bouncing Australian type?
In conjunction with hydraulic
Rodents of unusual size?
Of mice and men 😅
I need a squirrel sized one.
They are also rodents.
Electrophysiology Nurse here, common misconception that arrhythmias are heart attacks. People who have heart attacks (acute coronary artery blockages) can develop lethal arrhythmias like ventricular fibrillation if the damage is bad. But this is closer to implantable cardiac defibrillator testing where we intentionally either deliver 80hz or a synchronized DC shock during the cardiac cycle to put people into VF, watch the device detect and treat them (shock them) to ensure their ICD works.
Fascinating. Thank you for the detailed explanation. I knew, already, about the defib causing VF to allow for CPR in the field but using it for testing an ICD is something I hadn't though of.
It’s the weird shit we do in the controlled setting of the procedure labs. It’s fallen out of vogue as of the past 5 years since the tech and first time shock success rates are pretty good. Google St Jude Medical’s “DC Fibber” induction protocol. The bastards even trademarked it.
I'm always amazed at the variety of characters AvE can gather.
Lmao, the jumper took ALL of the fun out of it. Reminiscing of the days helping the old man when he says "hold this wire"...
Pass it on to ElectroBoom. He don't need no stinkin' jumper!
That also has the added benefit of making sure none of your kids are left handed
Neat. We use 480v and a nice thermoplastic covering as bait. Works every time. ...although, fuses are getting pricey!!!
It doesn’t only electrocute them the mice go boom
I used one of these years ago, I'll never forget the sound it made when a freeloading mouse found his way inside while I was watching TV. A quick electrical crack sound followed by an abbreviated mouse squeal. Amazing how science can take a couple AA batteries and use them to make a mouse go see mouse Jesus.
Adding a moist towel at the door increases the efficiency of the kill. Never play with electricity with wet feet!!
Probably won't kill a fella, but you should avoid sticking any mouse sized body parts in there!
its a cylinder
Has to be a pretty small and crooked mouse sized body part, if it's gonna go past those guards there.
@GAIS414 they have commercials for those types with crooked mouse sized parts
@@GAIS414I mean, small mouse sized body parts can be amazingly flexible
Don't threaten me with a good time
Had two stubborn mice this spring that wouldn't leave. Tried two of those Victor electronic traps, no bueno. Got the old style Victor traps with the metal bait plate. Peanut butter, snapped them both within a couple hours. They would not go in the electronic trap.
I also have one of those slip and slide bucket traps. Marine antifreeze and water in the bucket. Usually empty 10 or so mice out of the bucket every spring
The BOLTR that didn’t wind up on the healing bench, but instead headed straight to the killing floor.
FINALLY: a filthy-mouthed Sean Woods channel.
My dreams have come to fruition!
That's the teamup the world needs to heal right now.
"Time for your bris!" -- pure twisted genius!!!!
I just used an extension cord with the end stripped, a piece of tire rubber, a pie pan and some peanut butter. Safe? NO. Effective? Without a doubt.
lol
Made something similar for zapping cockroaches. A 5K volt magnetron power supply running off 24 VDC. Wired it up to a PCB with a ring etched in it. They never knew what hit them.
That's a video worth watching brother!
@@torinbrown8196 This was in Mississippi back in the late 70s. Long before any video camera was cheap enough to own.
Thanks for explaining the science parts so anyone can understand. I also enjoy the commentary and humor. Thanks for the videos, AvE.
AvE hears the trap conduct appropriately and instinctively says "Time!"
I used to deliver bread. Peanut butter and a sprinkling of sesame seeds was the perfect bait for my trap line. A 40' trailer full of freshly baked bread, and they would always go for the sesame bread, and the hamburger buns, if I didn't provide tastier bait. The ravens would visit me most mornings for breakfast.
Miss the boltr videos, tot and ave are slacking with their uploads
tot?
@@TheKeule33 this old tony
I have two of these and love them. Worked perfectly. I like the fact that I'm relieved of the necessity to remove a crushed and bloody rodent from a conventional mouse trap.
I’ve been watching your videos for years…. Is BOLTR, Break Open, Look, Then Reassemble???
ha, clever! someone correct me if im wrong, but i believe it stands for "Bored Of Lame Tool Reviews."
Correct! But I do like the "break open, look, then reasemble" it does fit with how AvE does things 😂
@@NeonPreservation You are correct, been hear that I think he used to type out the whole phrase, or maybe has said it a long time ago.
@@NeonPreservation Yes, it's this, but I vote for break open, look, then reassemble to be the new official definition.
Keep em coming brother !!!
No hesitation watching your new content.
Brilliant commentary, and interesting subject matter every time.
(1) emphasis on 10 “KILLA-VOLTS”…
(2) a review and tear-down that touches on both product design and functional performance, along w/ electrical engineering and biology!
(3) The old fashioned bait and squish approach (if/when rarely needed) works just fine for me…
Surprised Big Clive hasn't done a schematic on one of these yet
Oh. He has. ruclips.net/video/R476G9nmFJ8/видео.htmlsi=mNuzRrjmLsVWrfHL
At 14:20
I would love to see Clive reverse engineer this device although I think Uncle Bumble Fuck did a pretty good job.
He did a review of one on May 17, 2020. ruclips.net/video/R476G9nmFJ8/видео.html
Probably illegal on this side of the pond.
I think he did?
there was a forum post years and years ago about a guy asking about building something similar, but using a stick welder as a power supply
That’s high current lower voltage.
That immediately reminded me of some videos I used to watch back in the heyday of YT. Where a guy had massive electric grid capacitors, and would discharge then into watermelons and the like... 😅
I should try and locate that channel again!
_[edit: Kizmox seems to be it]_
I recently re-stumbled upon the ancient channel of the crazy Aussie - fittingly named Aussie50 - who would bring old washing machines back from the scrapyard and rig them back to life, only to throw in seriously heavy objects to rattle themselves to death... Washers jumping around a back yard is quite a site! 🤣
my Mexican buddy Emanuel had me 🤣😂
What some of us have to go to school to learn, this man takes up as a hobby. One of the best channels for humor and education on RUclips
These can also be made into a makeshift cattleprod for when the kids aren’t gettin’ a move on…
You mean MOOve on? 🐮
0:32 Nah, those weird plastic cheese Victor traps are worthless. Get the original metal piece trap and put some peanut butter on it. Works every time.
I have 4 of those, love how they tell me when they’ve tripped so I don’t have a melty mouse in a trap in a random corner of the shop.
Amazing. Some shocks stop the heart. Some start the heart. Schrodinger's mouse is both dead and/or alive until you look inside.
I've missed this style of video from you. Thank you.
Gives the mouse a heart attack, right out of the FBI playbook.
Well their favorite trick of installing kiddie pictures on your hard drive isn't appropriate for mice.
What beauty lives in the old classic springloaded mousetraps.. Some beech wood and some wire - good to work for a whole century without any charging and electronics involved!
I have a different brand/model but they do work great. Mine uses 2 IR sensors, one to arm and one to fire. Pretty cool device for the $27 or so I paid for it.
Cheers 🍻
I think it needs fixed. I won't be happy untill it will arc between the contacts.
Just like the auto/ machinery industry, they make fancy stuff that doesn't need to be fancy and charge more money. That contraption was designed to shield the dirty deed behind a vail and involve technology so they can charge more. I prefer the satisfying " Snap" in the quiet of nighttime. Gotcha!
5 gallon bucket, 14 inch wooden dowel 1/2" diameter, 6" of 1 inch diameter pvc pipe and some peanut butter works better than any other mouse trap I've ever seen. Place the dowel through the pvc pipe, then tape the dowel across the top of the bucket, add peanut butter to the pvc pipe and a small board ramp to the top of the bucket. Mouse climbs up, runs across the dowel, hits the pvc pipe, which rotates dropping him into the bucket. Live trap if bucket is empty, dead trap if half full of water. Caught 23 mice in two days once, let em all go in the woods and no more mouse problem.
Gotta love and give a stamp of approval to the guaranteed trigger at the beginning.
A boltr! Awesome! Thank you for the video!
Quiescent: in a state or period of inactivity or dormancy.
I live in Lititz Pa. Woodstream has beed here for over 100 years. Still building traps in town today. At one point they made the biggest and best bear traps.Still a great company to work for.
The Mr. Wizard of the new Millennium. Thanks for Making UncleBumblefork 👍👍👍👍
A solution looking for a problem. My Victor spring loaded traps, also made in Vietnam, work great Enjoy all your vids.
Trick I learned about years ago from an ancient (pre geocities!) teslacoiler site is to use your meter's input impedance as the lower resistor of a voltage divider. Use a sufficiently large external resistor to get the ratio you want, and you have a very low parts count, super high impedance high voltage probe/meter.
Most digital multimeters have a 10M input impedance, so putting a 90M or 900M or 9Gohm resistor in series will get you a 10x,100x, or 1000x probe.
If you're feeling paranoid, you could also put a simple neon bulb (no resistor) across your meter to protect it from overvoltage, as most neon lamps don't start conducting until over 100vdc.
yes, it will have a leakage current, but from the info I could find, if you use a standard NE-2 or equivalent, the worst cast error is about 1% when used on a 1000x divider, proportionally less error for 100x or 10x dividers.
Since the meter impedance is not a controlled parameter, its accuracy is going to be significantly less than whatever error an NE-2 would add.
My favorite is the CO2 mouse trap. Dr. recommended, Mom approved.
A24 is a beast
I remember looking into which traps would be quickest with the least pain, and it came down to "really good snap traps". I MIGHT be able to move them to a park, but in the winter that's also a slow death.
I say this because I THOUGHT, based on Shawn Woods' videos, that an electric trap like this might be more humane. I actually reached out to the manufacturer to confirm the average time-to-death; they misunderstood the question and confirmed that the active time had been *increased* to make sure it worked on newer models, meaning they could just be sitting there for an extra 30 seconds.
On glue traps they just panick to death. Poison they're generally in pain for up to 4 days.
The only instant mouse-deleter I could find was $1k and was basically a cow-killer running on CO2 charges.
So right now when I need to it's the big, heavy plastic snap traps with teeth.
I've found the 2 best traps are: bucket with water in it (otherwise they can actually manage to jump out, despite the lid)... and the little tunnels that just trap them.
the bucket is great because they fall in, it can capture a bunch. the tunnels are great because you can place them along edges of things where mice to to run, and they get baited right in. but they can only catch one at a time.. but possibly better because they can be placed along where the mice like to run.
there's also a guy who has a channel dedicated to mouse traps of all sorts. he found a shallow bowl with peanut oil in it is also very good.
they mice can't jump out because of the oil, they like the smell, and it can catch many overnight.
Switch to those a year ago, love them. They work great and still on the original batteries after a year.
Happy Friday! Perfect way to spend a soggy night. Thank you for this video! I bought
Amaschlong mouse cooker about
mouse cooker about 2 years ago(works well) and you just covered everything i wanted to know. Due to life and not feeling good, i i didnt open mine so thank you for your video! 😊 😊😊 😊❤
Thank you, AVE. I now understand,…something….about….what was the topic again? Never mind. I’m sure it will come in handy one of these days, whatever it was…..now where did I set my beer down?…..lol
We use the owltra traps. They use 2 electric eyes to detect the target. First to arm the kill system, and the second to trigger it. Duration is 30 seconds on, and you can hear it from across the room when it hits.
Batteries last forever depending on how many mice come a calling, usually 6 or more months.
Good to see you uploading again :)
Good to see ya back on the regular.
I've been using that trap for a while. Its been working well for me. Caught 5 mice in the first week.
Shout out to the ant at 3:00
great to see ya back!
Good ole death trap tear down video on the Tubes… yeah, I’ll watch and like.
Jumpin Joehosaphat! Did we just learn math together? That's beer o'clock
They work pretty good , I've got two of them . I was getting two or three a day with them until I cleaned out the colony .
Holy cow I used to watch this channel in college. I forgot the name of it for years and it just popped back up on my TL. Finally found you again!!
We have been blessed with a BOLTR video😎
The bucket trap is the best rat trap. Only problem that happens to that is it fills up With carcasses and they jump out. If you don't dump it I had one of the yard that amazed me. But I didn't buy that fancy lead thing. I just put pearlite like is in potting soil On top of about 8 inches of water in a 5 gallon bucket then smear some peanut butter around the top of the water line and if you want a supercharger it put some sesame seed oil in there put a little ramp up to the side. They jump right in and it's pretty humane they don't last very long in there about 30 seconds
Worst fleshlight ever? Speak for yourself!
Welcome back man of the north
The mouse completes the circuit allowing the device to chooch its magic, inducing death to the mouse.
You never cease to remind a lot of us that we're never going to be the smartest guy in the room, or a mouse having a heart attack.
The tom cat press and set crusher traps work best in my opinion. Hair trigger works when the old victor traps fail. The one here is nice if you dont want to see the dead mouse, though. I'll give it that.
lititz PA, my hometown... great small town in amish country, always loved that their largest industry is killin mice. (when I was a kid, they still MADE them in lititz)
Had a bad year for mice last winter. Set dozens of snap traps, and one day checking them I find two mice snapped in one trap. So I thought about it a minute and I think I can say, a fella might want to be careful who he shares a meal with.
These exist with GSM modules so it can send a text sms when fired, some are even with WiFi so you can monitor your killing machines, some are with elevators that lift the dead up and into a bin, return and rearm and on you go.
My great grandpa had a "fry the mouse" trap. Two plates hardwired to a 120 outlet, a bakelite case that did nothing to keep your fingers out of it, and a place to put the cheese. Not even homemade! Never tested it versus the modern ones, or at all--didn't want to set the house on fire.
I bought that same trap, and have caught lots of mice with it. I use ol victor spring traps too, but tried this one to see how well it works. The nice thing is, if the mice go for the bait, they never escape. I do lose some with the spring traps
Having used these quite a bit as well as the larger rat traps. I got rid of the baffles at the entrance by hacksawing then out because i saw 4-5 times more small mice caught in the rat version which has a huge opening with only a small hump in the top of it. Immediately after hacksawing it off i saw an increase. The mice seems hesitant to squeeze in.
Ofcourse your mile may vary and you do what you wish as your mice may be different than the ones here.
Regarding not killing you yes it can but unlikely. that trap works by as you say creating AC and it kills a nice by elecrocuting them for an minutes so that heart and breathing is completely disrupted.
Having gotten shocked by the rat sized one i can say the muscle spasms are very realaxross my hand, however with the design it is almost impossible to get a path passing your heart AND the spasms causing a hold onto grip of the plates unless you REALLY try.
You didn't point it out, but the plastic tab on the right hand side (critter side) has a tab on the cover that disables the zap when the mouse removal cover is opened, so you cannot shock yourself. Would not have received the CE mark if it was possible to hurt yourself that way.
I got a couple of these from Home Depot which are a Victor Brand that are phenomenal!
now you get to have a tiny cute snack. adorable 😊 good work
Sure, rebuild a hundred engines and no one cares. But pee in the corner a couple times and it’s posted all over the internet 😂
I've got the big brother to that one kicking around somewhere. The Rat Zapper. Never did catch any rats with it, but it did do a number on a few deer mice. The house I was renting at the time had a dirt crawlspace with no access that I ever found, it must have been a rat haven down there. Glue traps are we the awful, but effective solution until I got the hell out of there. It was a losing battle.
Great physicsing! Its a small rodent AEF (Automated Exterminating Fibrillator). A miniature Prentice Rasheed doormat.
the bent strip of sheet metal forming the bridge from one module to the other is going to fail after a while, and it does all corrode, eventually
i found adding some extra negative enforcement helps, rodents apparently understand velocity, impact, and percussion as a serious immanent threat, an explosive bb and they can't get the f*** out of dodge quick enough, and tend to hold that association and avoid the vicinity rather than just the traps. less passive but cathartic
5:59 clearly one HE made in his basement 😉
Not sure if it is still around but there used to be a YT channel that was different mousetrap designs. Like "better mouse trap" or something like that. It was wild how many he made.
A mouse having a heart attack > a mouse getting the Green Mile treatment.
The engineering breadcrumbs are scrumptious and nutritious. Grassyass
Wtf, so you had a device made of just wood an iron an replace it by something made with microcontrollers, rare earth's, heavy metals and plastic just to do the exact same job?!
And you have to constantly replace the batteries.
I set out a 6 pack of wood/iron traps and caught nothing for 2 weeks, got a 2 pack of these and both immediately made catches every night using the same bait.
Maybe it's the lil tunnel leading in they like but it's also many times cleaner of a kill whereas the metal ones don't always finish the job
@@Onewheelordeal - so place a mechanical strangulation device / bris device down a long tortuous path - voila similar result you still have to take out the trash after all is said and done (clockwork dump and reset versions are a better mousetrap)....
@@Onewheelordeal Sometimes they are a bit rough when cutting the trigger bars on snap traps. I always pass a file over the end of that trigger to remove any burrs that can resist it from snapping. They work pretty well for me once I do that.
I love wood traps but I don't dare use em around the chickens
I dare say, the AvE comment section is the finest and funniest in the kingdom of RUclips.
Once again, AvE shows us how to un-dork things. Thank you.