I've rebuilt my carbs like 3 times and doesnt turn on as easy as yours but I also have battery issues. Anyways this video is by far the best video on carbs I've seen. Tip my hat to your SIR!
Only a few minutes into the vid, but a couple of years ago I had to pull the carbs off my F2. With the rubber intake clamps loostened, the carb assy. would **NOT* budge. I'll make a long story short and say that when I got my brother on one side and me on the other pulling nearly straight up at the same time, they eventually let go (no prying or hammering or anything like that...just cradled our hands under the cards and pulled). I was honestly worried for a while that I'd never get them off, they were on there *that* tight. I'll note that during reassembly, I smeared the inside of the rubber boots (or whatever ya want to call them) with silicone grease. I need to pull the carbs off again this year, so I guess I'll see how well it worked. Yes, ATM you can get replacement boots. Sometime in the future, you may not be able to, and you may find other hardened rubber parts that are now NLA. If/when that happens, you can soften them up by immersing them in a mixture of methyl salicylate (oil of wintergreen) and 91% isopropyl alcohol in a sealed container for about 5 or 6 days (1 part methyl salicylate to three parts alcohol). When done, I coat them with silicone grease. I've had a hand in helping to restore a few ancient cars, and as long as the rubber is not damaged this trick works nicely, plus smells great 😁. Buy the 100% stuff, not the diluted junk or this won't work. 500ml (almost 17 oz) of methyl salicylate ought to be about $22 or so (or $75 a gallon) at Amazon under Industrial & Scientific. Worth it for parts that you cannot source any longer. The rubber slide bellows (under the black plastic top of the carb) are NLA for the F2 or the F3. Treat them gently. I've had my carbs off and apart three times and each time I pull the bellows out I clean them in soap and water, dry 'em off, and wipe them with (you guessed it) a thin coat of silicone grease. Protects them from age deterioration. ---Just a couple tricks learned from messing with 60+ year-old cars and bikes.
The rubber carb manifold boots on my Honda F2 bike are 28 years old. I could not get the carbs off by myself yesterday doing it by hand. I had a long metal rod laying around the house that is used to transport a motorcycle lift stand. I latched the end with the hook at the bottom of the carbs and pulled. They came out with no problem.
@@strangeuniverse1199 Yeah, I was afraid to pry on 'em, so I just grabbed my bro and we popped 'em off right away. Can't imagine anyone else's carbs stuck more than mine were...I fought 'em for two hours before I asked for help. I mean, do whatever works for ya, but the prying just worried me too much
the reason the screws are stripped is because they are JIS screws (japanese industrial standard) different than phillips. They are identified by the dot on the top of the screw.
Very good video!! Just got my first bike honda cbr 600, doesnt run.... Before i have only worked on outboard and moped carburetors so a little scared to open it up😬 little less now thanks to this video!! Greetings from Finland!!
I bought my Honda F2 sportbike back in 1994. It has the original brake fluid in the lines, it's never been changed. I'd say the bike is due for a brake fluid change. I watched about 3 RUclips videos on how to do it and went to Ebay to buy some clear bleeder tubing. They have these 8 dollar bleeder kits on Ebay that have the tubing along with a one way metal bleeder valve. The thin diameter of the input tubing would not fit over the bikes bleeder screw so I had to cut a small piece of the fatter tubing that connects to the other end of the bleeder valve and slip it over the end of the thin tubing in order to connect it to the bleeder screw. None of the RUclips videos I watched were using a one way bleeder valve kit. It really seems like the best way to change the brake fluid is to use these one way bleeder valves. The whole process of changing the brake fluid is much simpler. I just installed a 6 Sigma jet kit for the carburetors on my F2. The jet kit works well on the bike but the extra 2 or 3 horsepower it provides is not really noticible or needed for everyday use. If the carbs are off the bike I have heard it's a good idea to slightly raise the main needle that connects to the vacuum slide by adding an additional washer.
The rebuild kits work, i just did mine and it runs good! Only thing that was junk was the seals. I didnt use those cause the size was way small for some reason
Hey David! I’m forever greatful for this video! I’m just curious how cylinder 4’s intake valve turned out after you tried to clean it and how you attempted to do so. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks
On that bike I used compressed air to blow it out, while the valves where closed. The bike did not come with a title and I had no use for the motor. If I wanted to ride that bike I would have dropped the motor and remove the head and cleaned it check valve lash.
I'm currently working on a cbr600 hurricane f1 that has sat for a an indefinite amount of time, when I reinstalled the carbs after cleaning them I had trouble reinstalling the cables 😅 , I also noticed o had a leak to but it was due to not setting the carb flush to them silicon couplers 😅😅
The Honda service manual for the '91 - '94 Honda CBR F2 is excellent and is a must have if you intend to work on these bikes. The Clymer service manual for the '91- '94 Honda F2 is also very detailed at 430 pages long and is oriented towards the home mechanic. I picked up a used copy of the Clymer Honda F2 manual for 10 dollars with free shipping. I've had the carbs off the bike a couple times and did not have any problems putting everything back together. I would put paint marks on the various tubing to match them into the correct places. I'm 64 years old now and my memory is probably not as sharp as it used to be so I should have done a better job labeling where each tube location hooks up this third time around. My first Honda F2 was a used '92 model that was stolen the second day I brought it in to work. I then picked up a new '93 model and guarded that with my life. I picked up a 6 foot long Cobra links locking device for the new bike. Needless to say it's very traumatic to have a bike stolen, and these sport bikes are always a hot commodity with criminals. In the Honda service manual it states the pilot mixture screw should be backed out 2 1/8 turns. I have the California F2 model which has a different setting of 2 3/4 turns out. The mixture screws have never been taken out of my bike. I have a higher performance jet kit for the F2 that I bought a few years ago on Ebay that I will be installing. A lot of the Ebay vendors will no longer ship an aftermarket jet kit to California because of the stricter emissions laws here. The black rubber diaphragms on the carburetor vacuum slide have a little loop that tends to deteriorate. Some automotive Seal All sealant can be used on those little loops before the carburetor is put back together if there is deterioration to the loop.
The rebuild kit I got the reviews say the gaskets are too big. I'm gonna take a little time to try to shrink them a bit with a heat gun and if that doesn't work I'm just going to use some gasket maker shmoo to make the bowl orings.
I don’t know what I’m doing wrong but my top throttle cable the cable when I hook it up I can pull it back far enough to get it where I’m supposed to tighten the bolts to have it in place
The bottom on went just fine but the top on the throttle cable that comes out the wire just isn’t long enough to pull it back where the nuts are supposed to tighten
Hi just a question for you I have a 2003 Honda hornet 600f a 599 to you lol and my air filter is drenched in petrol do you know what is causing this. Thanks Liam
I don’t know every reason that could happen but I would guess clogged jets. Fuel getting into the bowl and getting into the engine. I’ve seen that before
Ok I just got me a f2 94 I got it over the summer I cleaned carbs did oil n spark plug she ran good for a week then last time I rode it I gave a buddy a jump start to his bike then i rode home parked for 3 days she did get wet days in a roll then when I went to turn on it killed my battery I jumped it off my car I got it on but before she warmed up she turned off loosing all power I left it alone for a while when I come back it now it would start with just connecting the battery
By the way, this is when we are reattaching the two cables and I’ve tried different positions and it either gets too tight to where it won’t move or at the loosest point it will go into any position but not snap back as it should.
There are a few things that you should do: The top cable (the adjustable one) has 2 10mm nuts, move the cable out from the carburetor. If your throttle snapped back before this should fix the problem. You should lube the cables Remove throttle from handlebars clean handlebar and lube handlebar.
I just put a new Chinese fairing on my 1993 Honda F2 motorcycle. The job was labor intensive and took a lot of hours to complete. The paint job on the different plastic pieces was excellent. Most of the holes needed to be filed out and enlarged. Some were off in location by as much as 3/16 of an inch. I started to use a small soldering iron to enlarge the holes by melting the plastic, this was much quicker than filing out the holes. This fairing was injection molded, it's supposed to be better than compression molding but it was still a big hassle to install. The stock Honda fairing would fit like a glove on the bike. It's to expensive to buy a new bike nowadays so I just tried to fix this one up to make it look better.
He mentions using dishwashing liquid on the manifolds to get them to slide on. My Dyno jet kit recommended using WD40 instead. Dishwashing liquid will leave residue on the manifolds. They are selling the carburetor slide with the rubber diaphragm assembly for the F2 on ebay at a reasonable price at the moment, I bought two. When putting the carbs back together I used cut up pieces of electricians tape to secure the black rubber diaphragm to the top of the carbs and used a small amount of Seal All automotive sealant as cement before removing the tape. The center hole in the plastic slide that secures the needle needed to be reamed out a little bit with a round jewelers file bought at Harbor Freight, the center hole was just a fraction of a millimeter off which prevented the slide from moving up and down. If that little loop on the diaphragm is a bit out of alignment I think you can heat the assembly up with a heater and yank the rubber in the direction you want the loop to move. They were selling black rubber diaphragms with no plastic slide for a very long time on Ebay. To attach those I think you need a credit card and some dental floss wrapped around the very top of the slide to try and wedge the rubber diaphragm into the very narrow gap on the plastic slide. I tried to glue mine on which was probably a bad idea.
I finally got my F2 up and running. The bike only has about 21,000 miles. I think about buying a new motorcycle but they are all very expensive to purchase, except for those cheap Chinese motorcycles you see advertised on the internet. If you buy a carburetor rebuild kit it's best to stay away from those Chinese made deluxe kits that sell for $10 dollars. Regardless of the description shown these $10 carburetor kits are notorious for having wrong parts added to them. I saw a complete K&L carburetor rebuild kit for $80 dollars on ebay the other day. I would think by spending a little bit more money there would be less likelihood of the parts in your kit being messed up. The use of dish washing liquid for the installation of those rubber manifolds was a good idea. I had good luck getting those rubber manifolds to stay on by tightening the clamps for the no.1 and no. 4 cylinders first before tightening the clamps on the no.2 and no.3 cylinders. I was not sure how to install that lower throttle cable in regards to the position of that one nut. This video did a good job explaining the proper way to install the cable. The throttle would probably still work if the lower cable was installed wrong but it's better to have it hooked up the right way with the nut in the correct position.
My 1993 Honda CBR600 F2 developed a fuel leak. It's a big hassle taking off the side fairings and with the bikes age I'd be better off leaving the side fairings off so I can more easily spot fuel leaks in the future. The bike still has all the original Honda fuel lines. The 30 year old fuel lines are not leaking yet. Gas was dripping from the fuel petcock which was the source of the gas leak. I ordered a new Chinese petcock off of Ebay for $25 dollars but it was leaking gas from the screw that secures the black fuel knob. I wrapped teflon tape around the screw which stopped the gas leak. Probably the worst place for a fuel leak on these bikes is having it leak gas between the carburetors. RUclips user G9strider did an excellent 3 part video series on repairing a fuel leak between the carbs. I downloaded all 3 videos for future reference.🥸
I've rebuilt my carbs like 3 times and doesnt turn on as easy as yours but I also have battery issues. Anyways this video is by far the best video on carbs I've seen. Tip my hat to your SIR!
Thank you, excellent video!
thank you sir its may 6, 2023 and i just rebuilt my carb for my 93 thank for the videos and thanks jim for the rules!!
Only a few minutes into the vid, but a couple of years ago I had to pull the carbs off my F2. With the rubber intake clamps loostened, the carb assy. would **NOT* budge. I'll make a long story short and say that when I got my brother on one side and me on the other pulling nearly straight up at the same time, they eventually let go (no prying or hammering or anything like that...just cradled our hands under the cards and pulled). I was honestly worried for a while that I'd never get them off, they were on there *that* tight.
I'll note that during reassembly, I smeared the inside of the rubber boots (or whatever ya want to call them) with silicone grease. I need to pull the carbs off again this year, so I guess I'll see how well it worked.
Yes, ATM you can get replacement boots. Sometime in the future, you may not be able to, and you may find other hardened rubber parts that are now NLA. If/when that happens, you can soften them up by immersing them in a mixture of methyl salicylate (oil of wintergreen) and 91% isopropyl alcohol in a sealed container for about 5 or 6 days (1 part methyl salicylate to three parts alcohol). When done, I coat them with silicone grease. I've had a hand in helping to restore a few ancient cars, and as long as the rubber is not damaged this trick works nicely, plus smells great 😁. Buy the 100% stuff, not the diluted junk or this won't work. 500ml (almost 17 oz) of methyl salicylate ought to be about $22 or so (or $75 a gallon) at Amazon under Industrial & Scientific. Worth it for parts that you cannot source any longer.
The rubber slide bellows (under the black plastic top of the carb) are NLA for the F2 or the F3. Treat them gently. I've had my carbs off and apart three times and each time I pull the bellows out I clean them in soap and water, dry 'em off, and wipe them with (you guessed it) a thin coat of silicone grease. Protects them from age deterioration.
---Just a couple tricks learned from messing with 60+ year-old cars and bikes.
The rubber carb manifold boots on my Honda F2 bike are 28 years old. I could not get the carbs off by myself yesterday doing it by hand. I had a long metal rod laying around the house that is used to transport a motorcycle lift stand. I latched the end with the hook at the bottom of the carbs and pulled. They came out with no problem.
@@strangeuniverse1199 Yeah, I was afraid to pry on 'em, so I just grabbed my bro and we popped 'em off right away. Can't imagine anyone else's carbs stuck more than mine were...I fought 'em for two hours before I asked for help. I mean, do whatever works for ya, but the prying just worried me too much
the reason the screws are stripped is because they are JIS screws (japanese industrial standard) different than phillips. They are identified by the dot on the top of the screw.
Excellent video, I saw it complete. You are very good at explaining, it helped me a lot. Thank you so much. Greetings from Buenos Aires, Argentina
Great video, helped me more than you know
Thanks I am going to attempt this on my cb600f hornet good video thank you
Fantastic video, very detailed!
Excellent. Please make more videos.
What would you like to see?
iv learned to mark each hose with a different color market and connector. it has worked very well. Also mark the location it goes to of course.
Amazing video and thanks for showing everything from start to finish. I'm subscribed. Keep it up!
That’s so nice! Is there anything you’d like to see on the Cbr600 f2. I’ve built a few of them
I'm actually building a 98 CBR900RR right now and applying some of your techniques to the build. But any engine rebuilds I'm all about...:)
To me this is pure gold, thanks! 🙏🏽👍🏼
Thank you for letting me know you liked it
Thanks!
Very good video!!
Just got my first bike honda cbr 600, doesnt run....
Before i have only worked on outboard and moped carburetors so a little scared to open it up😬 little less now thanks to this video!!
Greetings from Finland!!
I bought my Honda F2 sportbike back in 1994. It has the original brake fluid in the lines, it's never been changed. I'd say the bike is due for a brake fluid change. I watched about 3 RUclips videos on how to do it and went to Ebay to buy some clear bleeder tubing. They have these 8 dollar bleeder kits on Ebay that have the tubing along with a one way metal bleeder valve. The thin diameter of the input tubing would not fit over the bikes bleeder screw so I had to cut a small piece of the fatter tubing that connects to the other end of the bleeder valve and slip it over the end of the thin tubing in order to connect it to the bleeder screw.
None of the RUclips videos I watched were using a one way bleeder valve kit. It really seems like the best way to change the brake fluid is to use these one way bleeder valves. The whole process of changing the brake fluid is much simpler.
I just installed a 6 Sigma jet kit for the carburetors on my F2. The jet kit works well on the bike but the extra 2 or 3 horsepower it provides is not really noticible or needed for everyday use. If the carbs are off the bike I have heard it's a good idea to slightly raise the main needle that connects to the vacuum slide by adding an additional washer.
Did you find videos of someone changing fluid on the F2? I’ve rebuilt a few brakes that’s the best time to change the fluid. Still a pain tho
Great detailed info.
The rebuild kits work, i just did mine and it runs good! Only thing that was junk was the seals. I didnt use those cause the size was way small for some reason
Good video. Thank you for doing this.
Let me know if there’s anything you’d like to see on the CBR600 f2 and I’d be happy to make a video
Hey David! I’m forever greatful for this video! I’m just curious how cylinder 4’s intake valve turned out after you tried to clean it and how you attempted to do so. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks
On that bike I used compressed air to blow it out, while the valves where closed. The bike did not come with a title and I had no use for the motor. If I wanted to ride that bike I would have dropped the motor and remove the head and cleaned it check valve lash.
@@davidburroughs6416 thanks so much!
I'm currently working on a cbr600 hurricane f1 that has sat for a an indefinite amount of time, when I reinstalled the carbs after cleaning them I had trouble reinstalling the cables 😅 , I also noticed o had a leak to but it was due to not setting the carb flush to them silicon couplers 😅😅
If you can get replacement carb “boots” the rub manifold you should
@David Burroughs I just ordered a new set, just as you said they 3 of 4 were already cracked and brittle
Oh shit you new RUclipsr yah good for you nice nice be 10000k subscriber
The Honda service manual for the '91 - '94 Honda CBR F2 is excellent and is a must have if you intend to work on these bikes. The Clymer service manual for the '91- '94 Honda F2 is also very detailed at 430 pages long and is oriented towards the home mechanic. I picked up a used copy of the Clymer Honda F2 manual for 10 dollars with free shipping.
I've had the carbs off the bike a couple times and did not have any problems putting everything back together. I would put paint marks on the various tubing to match them into the correct places. I'm 64 years old now and my memory is probably not as sharp as it used to be so I should have done a better job labeling where each tube location hooks up this third time around.
My first Honda F2 was a used '92 model that was stolen the second day I brought it in to work. I then picked up a new '93 model and guarded that with my life. I picked up a 6 foot long Cobra links locking device for the new bike. Needless to say it's very traumatic to have a bike stolen, and these sport bikes are always a hot commodity with criminals.
In the Honda service manual it states the pilot mixture screw should be backed out 2 1/8 turns. I have the California F2 model which has a different setting of 2 3/4 turns out. The mixture screws have never been taken out of my bike. I have a higher performance jet kit for the F2 that I bought a few years ago on Ebay that I will be installing. A lot of the Ebay vendors will no longer ship an aftermarket jet kit to California because of the stricter emissions laws here.
The black rubber diaphragms on the carburetor vacuum slide have a little loop that tends to deteriorate. Some automotive Seal All sealant can be used on those little loops before the carburetor is put back together if there is deterioration to the loop.
The rebuild kit I got the reviews say the gaskets are too big. I'm gonna take a little time to try to shrink them a bit with a heat gun and if that doesn't work I'm just going to use some gasket maker shmoo to make the bowl orings.
thank you
Hi, could you do a tutorial on how to change the fuel tap on the cbr 600 f2...
Un bolt it from tank take two pipe's off bolt new one on our pipes back on really easy.
I don’t know what I’m doing wrong but my top throttle cable the cable when I hook it up I can pull it back far enough to get it where I’m supposed to tighten the bolts to have it in place
The bottom on went just fine but the top on the throttle cable that comes out the wire just isn’t long enough to pull it back where the nuts are supposed to tighten
@@sethgirot4258 I don’t understand
I have a question how do I change the diaphragm on the slide I'm having trouble taking it of the slide
Did you balance after the rebuild
Is the rubber o ring inside the choke plunger also included in the kit? I've got 2 plungers where the rubber has hardened up and fallen out.
Hi just a question for you I have a 2003 Honda hornet 600f a 599 to you lol and my air filter is drenched in petrol do you know what is causing this. Thanks Liam
Is that bike fuel injection?
No it's carburetor
I don’t know every reason that could happen but I would guess clogged jets. Fuel getting into the bowl and getting into the engine. I’ve seen that before
Or a stuck float or needle not sitting off fuel. Anyway a good carb cleaning should help
Ok I will have a go at that thanks for your help.
Hey if you could help me with my bike please my f2 turns on turns off on back fires wa u think I do have great spark
So many possibilities. Do you have the coils plugged I the correct sides? Could be exhaust valves carbon on your plugs…..
Ok I just got me a f2 94 I got it over the summer I cleaned carbs did oil n spark plug she ran good for a week then last time I rode it I gave a buddy a jump start to his bike then i rode home parked for 3 days she did get wet days in a roll then when I went to turn on it killed my battery I jumped it off my car I got it on but before she warmed up she turned off loosing all power I left it alone for a while when I come back it now it would start with just connecting the battery
So I brought relay n starter changed spark plug new cdi new rec new stator and stilll nun
And I had that problem before with the plugs in the wrong place I will have to double check n c if there correct
Do you have a multimeter?
So I’m reinstalling my carbs and my throttle doesn’t snap back, it stays stuck in its position it’s moved to
By the way, this is when we are reattaching the two cables and I’ve tried different positions and it either gets too tight to where it won’t move or at the loosest point it will go into any position but not snap back as it should.
There are a few things that you should do:
The top cable (the adjustable one) has 2 10mm nuts, move the cable out from the carburetor. If your throttle snapped back before this should fix the problem.
You should lube the cables
Remove throttle from handlebars clean handlebar and lube handlebar.
My idle screw won’t go bacc in the hole please help
Is the carb off the bike still?
Is it the same steps for the 1987 600f?
No
He says not all the way for the choke cable retaining thingy and I totally lost that piece 😂 still trying to find out the real name
Let me know what it’s called
I think I found it ... It's a carburetor choke cable stay tab
Fuel line is here this other thing is here
If that's the way the air filter was fitted it was upside down...
I just put a new Chinese fairing on my 1993 Honda F2 motorcycle. The job was labor intensive and took a lot of hours to complete. The paint job on the different plastic pieces was excellent. Most of the holes needed to be filed out and enlarged. Some were off in location by as much as 3/16 of an inch. I started to use a small soldering iron to enlarge the holes by melting the plastic, this was much quicker than filing out the holes. This fairing was injection molded, it's supposed to be better than compression molding but it was still a big hassle to install. The stock Honda fairing would fit like a glove on the bike. It's to expensive to buy a new bike nowadays so I just tried to fix this one up to make it look better.
He mentions using dishwashing liquid on the manifolds to get them to slide on. My Dyno jet kit recommended using WD40 instead. Dishwashing liquid will leave residue on the manifolds. They are selling the carburetor slide with the rubber diaphragm assembly for the F2 on ebay at a reasonable price at the moment, I bought two. When putting the carbs back together I used cut up pieces of electricians tape to secure the black rubber diaphragm to the top of the carbs and used a small amount of Seal All automotive sealant as cement before removing the tape. The center hole in the plastic slide that secures the needle needed to be reamed out a little bit with a round jewelers file bought at Harbor Freight, the center hole was just a fraction of a millimeter off which prevented the slide from moving up and down. If that little loop on the diaphragm is a bit out of alignment I think you can heat the assembly up with a heater and yank the rubber in the direction you want the loop to move.
They were selling black rubber diaphragms with no plastic slide for a very long time on Ebay. To attach those I think you need a credit card and some dental floss wrapped around the very top of the slide to try and wedge the rubber diaphragm into the very narrow gap on the plastic slide. I tried to glue mine on which was probably a bad idea.
I finally got my F2 up and running. The bike only has about 21,000 miles. I think about buying a new motorcycle but they are all very expensive to purchase, except for those cheap Chinese motorcycles you see advertised on the internet.
If you buy a carburetor rebuild kit it's best to stay away from those Chinese made deluxe kits that sell for $10 dollars. Regardless of the description shown these $10 carburetor kits are notorious for having wrong parts added to them. I saw a complete K&L carburetor rebuild kit for $80 dollars on ebay the other day. I would think by spending a little bit more money there would be less likelihood of the parts in your kit being messed up.
The use of dish washing liquid for the installation of those rubber manifolds was a good idea. I had good luck getting those rubber manifolds to stay on by tightening the clamps for the no.1 and no. 4 cylinders first before tightening the clamps on the no.2 and no.3 cylinders.
I was not sure how to install that lower throttle cable in regards to the position of that one nut. This video did a good job explaining the proper way to install the cable. The throttle would probably still work if the lower cable was installed wrong but it's better to have it hooked up the right way with the nut in the correct position.
My 1993 Honda CBR600 F2 developed a fuel leak. It's a big hassle taking off the side fairings and with the bikes age I'd be better off leaving the side fairings off so I can more easily spot fuel leaks in the future. The bike still has all the original Honda fuel lines. The 30 year old fuel lines are not leaking yet. Gas was dripping from the fuel petcock which was the source of the gas leak. I ordered a new Chinese petcock off of Ebay for $25 dollars but it was leaking gas from the screw that secures the black fuel knob. I wrapped teflon tape around the screw which stopped the gas leak.
Probably the worst place for a fuel leak on these bikes is having it leak gas between the carburetors. RUclips user G9strider did an excellent 3 part video series on repairing a fuel leak between the carbs. I downloaded all 3 videos for future reference.🥸