My New (Vintage) Wood Lathe Restoration
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- Опубликовано: 17 сен 2024
- Restoring a 1940's-era Atlas Power King 7090 wood lathe. Turned an old, rusty, vintage lathe into a working tool! This is my first lathe and I've always wanted to turn small projects like tool handles. www.vintagemach...
Love the video because there are a lot of restoration videos on older tools, but not so many on using or demonstrating the functions. Thanks for sharing. It looks like you take the time needed to do things right!
Thank you-much appreciated!
Pretty cool, I picked up the exact same lathe last year at a estate sale for $20. Guy never used it and had barely any rust on it. I dissassembled everything and cleaned up all the parts and clearcoated it with its old patina still on it. Mounted a gravity tensioned 1/2 hp motor under the bench and it's worked like a charm.
Excellent! It's a nice small lathe. I haven't had much time to use it yet, but looking forward to some projects with it.
Every time I search a topic of interest, Brian has an awesome video about it!
LOL! Thanks!
Beautiful work. Have fun with it.
Thank you.
I recently bought a 36" one. I'll be restoring it and see how it goes. Looking forward to having fun with it.
Good luck with your project. I'm sure it will come out great!
Thanks! :)
I have one of these off of Facebook! Scary thing is the guy put a 3 hp motor on it! Smooth as can be running machine
Speed is more important than horsepower. Have fun with your lathe!
Fiddling with mine now for the first week. Cleaning and presently on the kitchen table. Mines blue
You must live with someone very understanding who will let you work on it on the kitchen table!
Nice job on the restoration! Looks like she runs pretty smooth.
Thank you very much. I see you have an Atlas metal lathe. Someday, I'd love to find a small metal lathe...
Great job! The only thing that I would suggest is moving the switch for the motor to the front of the lathe. It looks really dangerous reaching behind the lathe to turn it on or off.
Thanks. Totally agree. Like I said, it was a temporary setup. I already have a paddle switch and I’m currently building a proper stand for it. I’ll be posting a video when it’s done-it’s a pretty cool timber frame stand.
@@brianweekley5700 Great! I can't wait to see your new stand.
I'm restoring an old Delta wood lathe. the motor mounts below on a hinge. Do you think the weight of the motor is enough to make the belts work or does the motor need to be locked in position?
You can see at 1:50 in this video that my motor is mounted to a board on hinges. The weight of the motor alone seems to be enough for mine. I'd try it and if you find it bounces around too much, than maybe add a quick-release toggle to secure it. Once I build my lathe stand, I'll be mounting the motor underneath instead of behind and I think that will even be better.
Cool. I recently got a garage sale lathe Dunlap model 534.0601 that was still in relatively good condition. It’s much like yours. The motor on mine needs to be arranged more like yours as it’s not mounted for easy belt change. I think my motor is also like yours.
Yes, I think that Dunlap model is the same lathe as mine. Good luck with yours. I’ve found mine very useful for several projects.
Awsome job!
Thank you!
I was given the same one but didn’t know the name thanks
Thanks. The same Atlas Power King model lathe was also sold by Sears under the “Craftsman” badge.
I've got #2068. It works great!
It's a nice lathe!
Mr. Weekley, Are you still using this lathe? I am looking at the same era lathe built in 1955. Are you having issues sourcing new accessories?
Thanks for the question. I don’t do a lot of turning, but there is no problem getting accessories for it. Note that mine is a relatively small lathe (9 inch). Mine takes MT-1 (Morris taper #1) accessories for the drive spurs, live centers, and drill chucks. The spindle thread size for drive chucks and faceplates is 3/4”-16. There are no problems buying new accessories for it (check out Grizzly or Penn State Industries). However, larger lathes that take MT-2 accessories or have 1”-8 spindles will accept larger components and you will have more choices. It all depends on the size of the lathe you are looking at and what you want to do with it.
@@brianweekley5700 Thank you! Love your videos!
Michael Reynaud Thank you. At 5:40 in this video, you can see some new chuck accessories that I bought for my lathe: ruclips.net/video/Um5kzkli00M/видео.html
Where did you find the bowl chuck for side spkndle
It’s a 4-jaw utility chuck from Penn State Industries and fits both 3/4”-16 and 1”-8 spindles. Came with two sets of jaws (inner and outer) and also a jumbo jaw for bowls. Not the highest quality, but economical and perfect for my limited needs. If you’re referring to the faceplate on the on the outside (left side), that came with the lathe when I bought it.
I have the Dunlap version of this exact lathe. I’m a beginner at turning and I’d appreciate it if someone could give me advice on what the outside threaded end of the headstock is for. I’ve been looking and have found very little about it. Is it just for adjusting end play?
Congrats on your new (old) lathe. These lathes offered an additional faceplate that could be screwed on the outside (left side). You can see this at 1:03 in my video (shown from the rear). If the lathe is mounted on a stand, it would allow you to attach larger diameter wood to make things like bowls because it would stick out and clear the stand. If a faceplate is screwed on the right side of the headstock, you are limited to the capacity of the lathe (9 inch diameter on my model). However, the threads are different (right hand threads on the rights side and left hand threads on the left side). On my lathe, the thread size is 3/4-16. You can easily find/buy new faceplates to fit the right hand threads. It’s a little harder to find originals with the left hand threads, but some people custom make them.
Wow! thanks. What do you do about tool rest?
@@1wirey There are tool rest stands available (or outboard tool rests). Recognize that this is a small lathe. Don’t expect to make large bowls on it. It might work for an occasional project that is slightly larger than the normal capacity. You’re really better off getting a larger lathe if that’s the kind of thing you really want to turn. Most small lathes have chucks/faceplates that have 1”-8 thread. This 3/4”-16 is better suited for smaller projects with smaller forces (pens, spindles, handles, etc.).
Thank you again.
How did you remove the shaft for the headstock? I just picked one up and am restoring it, but don’t want to just beat the crap out of the shaft.
You probably know the drive spur can be tapped out with a rod inserted from the other end. To remove the drive shaft, loosen the set screws on the pulley and any other collars or housings, if present. You should then be able to tap out the shaft with a dead blow hammer. Note that the set screws may have slightly deformed the shaft (burrs) which might make it a little difficult to remove. Details will depend on your brand/model. There are a few RUclips videos that provide examples on a few different lathes.
The tool rest is way too far from the turning, no more than 1/4 inch gap. That big of a gap is asking for the chisel to be flipped out of your hand with crazy dangerous results.
Thanks for the advice. That was literally the first time I ever used a lathe-I was just trying it out after finishing the restoration (I’m a little more experienced with it since then).
What type of paint did you use?? Looks great!
Thanks, Jack. The link in the description provides some details about the paint (spray paint-rattle cans):
Base Coat: Rust-Oleum 7538838 Professional High Performance Enamel Spray Paint, 15 oz, Hunter Green
Top Coat: Rust-Oleum 239119 Multi-color, Textured Spray Paint, Sea Green, 12 oz.
Final Coat: Rust-Oleum 7701830 Gloss Crystal Clear Stops Rust Spray Paint, Enamel, 12 fl.
Love it but I'm waiting for the second part where you build a guard for the belt and exposed wheel, otherwise it's an amputation waiting to happen.
Thank you for your comment. These vintage lathes did not have belt guards--this is how they were used (the side view camera angle makes it look worse than it is). I will be relocating a power switch to the front when I build a proper stand for it. However, I can't think of a single hand tool or power tool designed to cut wood that is not inherently dangerous. If I am injured using this, it is my own fault and no one else. That is the risk I am willing to bear as a woodworker.
Brian Weekley Can't agree more and I use these every day, but I think one should use the technology at hand to improve one's tools to be safer.
Very well said. I was just about to comment the same or similar. I have just made some guards for my bandsaw motor drive which I will go and install right now!