The Fluke 9010A has BCD and DCD errors, they both can be stuck data bit, stuck data buss line, stuck address line. When have you got BCD and DCD errors and How can you tell what the BCD and DCD errors are coming from to narrow down the failure?
Really only necessary for most (not all) arcade monitors that require it. Some (like a Wells Gardner K7400) have their own isolation transformer built in (a small one), but it's generally thought to be a good idea to use a larger separate one, IF you have an arcade monitor. Monitors like a WG K7000 will die if you don't connect them to an ISO, and they usually have a sticker on the monitor chassis power supply connecting wires to warn you one is REQUIRED. If you're using a regular unmodified TV, you really don't need one. Some people wire one large isolation transformer to the AC wiring coming in to then power EVERYTHING. Most arcade enthusiasts frown upon this, and they suggest just powering the monitor ONLY off the ISO. The incoming AC would then wire straight to the marquee light and the switching power supply to run an arcade PCB without first going through the ISO. An added benefit of doing it this way is you will reduce the amount of current the ISO has to be rated for, since it is ONLY powering your monitor, and not other parts of your cabinet. A lot of factory cabinets have a 3 AMP fuse for the entire cab. The monitors have an average 1.5-3 AMP fuse (think my K7000 for instance has a 2 AMP). So if you only have an ISO rated for, say, 2.5 AMP, you probably wouldn't want to power the PCB, marquee light, AND monitor all through the ISO. It may overheat.
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Hey hope to see more videos. Great work
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Very helpful! Trying to research and get my outrun monitor not so darn dim
The Fluke 9010A has BCD and DCD errors, they both can be stuck data bit, stuck data buss line, stuck address line. When have you got BCD and DCD errors and How can you tell what the BCD and DCD errors are coming from to narrow down the failure?
Isolation Transformer, it really necessary, to connect an arcade card cosolized to a tv??
Really only necessary for most (not all) arcade monitors that require it. Some (like a Wells Gardner K7400) have their own isolation transformer built in (a small one), but it's generally thought to be a good idea to use a larger separate one, IF you have an arcade monitor.
Monitors like a WG K7000 will die if you don't connect them to an ISO, and they usually have a sticker on the monitor chassis power supply connecting wires to warn you one is REQUIRED.
If you're using a regular unmodified TV, you really don't need one. Some people wire one large isolation transformer to the AC wiring coming in to then power EVERYTHING.
Most arcade enthusiasts frown upon this, and they suggest just powering the monitor ONLY off the ISO. The incoming AC would then wire straight to the marquee light and the switching power supply to run an arcade PCB without first going through the ISO.
An added benefit of doing it this way is you will reduce the amount of current the ISO has to be rated for, since it is ONLY powering your monitor, and not other parts of your cabinet. A lot of factory cabinets have a 3 AMP fuse for the entire cab. The monitors have an average 1.5-3 AMP fuse (think my K7000 for instance has a 2 AMP). So if you only have an ISO rated for, say, 2.5 AMP, you probably wouldn't want to power the PCB, marquee light, AND monitor all through the ISO. It may overheat.
What amp is your fuse? where do I get the parts to build one for my arcade machine?
I need help what’s your email 😅😅