I know this vid is 2 years old, but it just saved me today. I literally bought my van 2 days ago, and have never built anything in my life. I picked up a roll of reflectix yesterday, and was planning to install it today. Before going outside, I decided to look for a few more vids for pointers and found yours. What you say makes perfect sense; I wasn't getting how the reflectix was working in other vans, when it has no space to reflect. Now, I have re-thought my whole approach. Thanks for this vid, I saw it in the nick of time.
How did it work during the summer? I used little foam cubes glued to the wall to mount reflectix to so there's an air gap then put my walls on top of that. There is like 1 inch air space
Oh geez guys. Guess who just got a van and has no idea what to add to help break the heat but also prep for summer. Super small budget. Any advice is appreciated . Have plywood floors, with vinyl on that. One couch style 2x4 bed on driver side, thinking about a Maxx air fan, windows are cargo style and don't open.
@@Concerned_citizen1a for your front windows look up gutter guards van windows to create bug free ventilation, also rain guards for the window. This will create a cross breeze with your Maxx fan.
it's very important that people understand there is a wrong way to insulate and a right way. it's good that someone finally pointed out why the space between is important to keep in order for their insulation r-value to be where it should be. thanks Ryan...
I was about to insulate my van the way the other van lifers teach and thank god I watched your video because that would’ve been a huge disaster. I’m trying to beat the Australian heat. Thanks for your videos, they are a huge comfort.
@@robertwilson1827I used corflute between the reflectix for my ute canopy where I have my fridge its worked a treat has a 1.5mm air holes all thru it only $8 for a huge sheet at bunnings.
Thank you for some clarity. Some people use Reflectix as a water/moisture barrier and not as insulation. Far too many van RUclipsrs do most everything wrong. Solar panels fly off, mold illness strikes some, and other problems. RUclipsrs rarely go back and corrects old videos that have been monetized. They could go back and add text on a re-edit, but that would take time and effort. rant over LOL
Wow that was close 🥵 I'm starting my insulation on Thursday & it's just after midnight on Wednesday night 🌙 if I hadn't clicked on your video I'd of done it all wrong 😬 and froze 🥶 I've been researching van builds for around 2 years & absolutely nobody I've read about or watched have ever done it this way. It makes perfect sense, thank you for educating me. You have saved me from some very miserably cold nights x
I’m not sure if he explains this but the reason you need an air gap is because heat coming through has to be converted to Radiant energy form ... literally radiates off of the surface generating heat like a piece of metal being hit by the sun. It Has to radiate off of the surface of the heated side..it radiates off the surface through the USPS and then hits the reflective foil that type of energy just reflected. reflects back in the opposite direction.... if The radiant barrier is touching the surface it conducts the heat through the foil... the heat goes straight through and has very little if any of the radiant property is being used
The problem we van builders face is that specs on household insulation products like this do not transfer directly to our intended usage. Imagine 2 layers of this reflectix each with the proper air gap in addition to your main insulator. It robs too much internal volume this way. It also sets up structural issues...I mean what to you attach these layers to ? If the response is more layers of wooden framing, how heavy do you want your van to be ? Also if you intend to fix your furniture to your wooden framing it needs to be the frame that is directly supported by direct bonding to the metal shell. Not 2 layers in as each layer further away from the metal body gets weaker. I've seen lots of different approaches and many say they work for them in their daily usage. That's what matters. Personally I favour Kingspan style board with foil each side plus thinsulate in the awkward areas. I'm working on eliminating thermal bridges which many people (but not everone) know are the spots where your insulation is failing due to some form of contact between the cold side and the warmer side of your insulation. You can also minimise heat transfer by eliminating or reducing holes to the outside. This includes windows but also openings for toilet emptying or water fill up etc. You just don't need those outside doors if you plan the siting of these features next to van doors. Open the van door and pull out the cassette or fill the water. Cut down on thermal bridges. So much for your walls and ceiling. Floors can be just as simple. Cab areas are the big challenge. I once lived in a house with a poor heating system and a large through room. We put up a heavy curtain across the archway to split the room in half. (The gas fire was In the front half.) Instantly we had a cosy room. It was freezing going through the curtain to reach the kitchen to make a brew but the main living area was much better. Cab curtains work. What I've noticed is that even those who have 2 swivel seats place the curtain across the cab to cut it off completely including the seats. This puts some people off. Just fashion a shaped curtain to allow the seats to remain within your living space but the curtain to still hang low to the floor to keep the heat in and the cold from the windows out. On the topic of insulation we should not forget about adequate ventilation. Were talking oxygen to breath and airflow to expel moist air. Insulation and ventilation go hand in hand. My experience of van builds tells me that lack of ventilation is rarely a problem but bear it in mind. So the proper way to use reflectix is two layers 3/4 inch spaced from each other and everything else..........how ? Happy travels everyone. John
You stick the first layer on your walls, floor and ceeling. On the bare metal. It's only 1-2mm thick. The 2nd layer of reflectix you stick on after your insulation. You don't need to have a literal "air" gap. Insulation is also an air gap, lots of tiny air gaps. The point is to have reflectix it on both sides. I think this idea is amazing. You need vapor barrier anyway, might as well use reflectix for it. To secure things in place easier, you can use "stick pins" for insulation. They have super strong adhesive and a way to hold any insulation in place. (Make sure to cut the end off and close the whole with some aluminium tape.) Done! If I got anything wrong in here, let me know. But this is basically as simple as you can make it.
@@millanferende6723 hi Millan. Your 1st Reflectix layer stuck to the metal has no air gap between it and the metal so cannot reflect heat back towards the Van's outside skin. It's a thermal bridge because the foil is a good conductor. The foil may as well be the van skin. The bubble part will give minimal insulation as every little surface area that would be insulated by the trapped air is immediately in contact with the outer metal too. Essentially this 1st layer is wasted. Also, if you need a second layer of reflectix on the inside of your main insulator then I would say your main insulator isn't doing its job. Obviously each person commenting has their own opinion, and I can only offer mine. For me Recticel type board AKA Kingspan ticks the boxes....it is readily available and fairly cheap, its flexible especially the 12mm thick stuff (which can be multi-layered) It already has a reflective foil on both sides - that is also a viable vapour barrier built in. I think it's fair to say that most van builds are very individual . Van contours differ a lot too. The drawback with Recticel is that it suits larger relatively flatter areas and isn't easy to fit to odd shapes. If you need to cut it up it can get messy. But with a little thought it can be applied in lots of areas saving time, effort and cost....and no..I don't work for either of those manufacturers ! Lol Happy travels. John
@@johnvancamper1987 Hey John, thank you for your input. Yeah you are right that Recticel board is pretty handy in that. It's also what one of my favorite van maker use. You are right that we probably cannot know for sure, without testing. In my eyes, when an object like an outer skin heats up, it releases heat as conduction ( touch) and radiation (IR) into the van. The insulation layer slows down the conduction. And a layer of silver reflectix on the outside of the skin, reflects that IR back. But it passes through the heat from conduction. Which is where insulation comes in. Now insulation gets hot too and transfer heat at conduction, as well as IR. And that is where the second layer comes in. The only question really is, does reflectix work directly outside of a surface. And I believe yes, it reflects IR right back. But gets hot, and this is where second layer of reflectix comes in. Or maybe the inner layer helps keep the van warm during winter and outer layer cold during summer. In both cases two layers is better than one. This is what I believe of course to be true. We cannot know for sure without some dedicated scientific tests. But my logic and knowledge says this is true. I wish you best of luck in your build. :)
@ferende Of course you need an air gap. Reflectix isn’t magic- it has to have a sealed envelope to work. No airgap is like almost no insulation value. You can actually insulate way better than reflectix ever will with fitted foam. Reflectix can be useful but not how most people use it. There’s some science involved.
Last time I accessed CA building codes (& it's been a while) home values were: ceiling~ R-30 walls~ R-19 floor~ R-13 approaching these numbers in an RV is the cat's meow!
Radiant material was popular in Florida to drape between roof rafters 30 yrs ago to combat ferocious sun. That material was like heavy duty tin foil vs bubble wrap sandwiched between foil like this roll. Of course there has to be an air gap for maximum effectiveness. It took me a week to install radiant barrier (using same product shown) on a fiberglass cowling, aka top hat, above the cab on a box truck with 3/4" air gap - sealed around the edges to create an air envelope. That was covered with rigid foam insulation board tiles to negotiate curves. Radiant barrier combined with rigid foam board impressed me as the best method and my box truck remains ambient air temperature - even when exposed to direct summer sun. Of course once the AC is turned on the benefits of R12 (conservative rating of 2" foam and radiant barrier) does the job.
You can buy plastic grid panels called aquarium separators cheap, then use a touch of glue in a few places on interior roof to create an air gap that you can glue reflectix onto. Im cutting up the panels into smaller pieces to spread em around
I have a cargo trailer and after watching many videos and listening to all the opinions, I believe a lot depends on the environment you spend your time in. As traveling Nomad I aim to spend my time in areas where insulation is only important at night. During the day I can shade my cargo trailer, open all windows, doors and screen it for insects, letting it breathe. I use foam board only. Never sealed the gaps between outside metal and the metal frame so that it can not form condensation as their is a way for it to escape, unlike some who have sealed it so tight that mold is sure to form which is unhealthy to breathe. Then I used 1 1/2” xps and 2” xps without any adhesive. Then a 1/2” plywood and long screws to the metal frame of trailer. This allows it to be easily removed for trailer wiring, outlet wiring and inspection for any mold buildup issues. Also no wood touches metal of trailer making it have a thermal barrier naturally and no wood rot issues. I am warm enough at night and cool enough as well. So far no mold as it can breathe behind the foam gaps left by the trailer manufacturers who never properly sealed it. (Which actually helped anyway) As I mentioned before, shade and living in areas where insulation is not top priority, airing it out during the day. Only using heat or A/C at night or for a day or two in daylight hours is key to living the house free lifestyle. If the foam needs replaced, it can be easily removed and the patterns are already cut. Walls can be disinfected and you start over fresh just like when you bought the cargo van. So what if you have to replace the foam, it lasted many years, and you are still not paying a mortgage or rent, or property taxes. Seems like a win to me.
I would love to see some actual testing around van insulation e.g. actual metal boxes, left in the sun, with various insulations lined on the inside, and measure the temperature increases. And then the same but keeping heat in, with it cold outside. I must get onto that...
I did that. No video. Reflectix works to slow the heating of my van in direct sun. Does Jack shit for cold weather, if you haven't heated the van. My other van has standard insulation and is better holding on to warmth from the day in to the night.
Just picking up your brain maybe... I stickied thinsulate black rubber 10 mm all under the ceiling. My priority is heat and cold together but what would be next?
@@ivanriverooo depends on how much insulation you want, after you have the 10mm black rubber on the ceiling, create a 2 to 3cm airgap and then use reflectix or some other insulation layer. then the roof panels go on. aka thos mdf roof panls that people cover etc. thats one way. or add another insulation layer to double the r value.
@@AridersLifeYT for convenience I will attach the cotton wool and reflectix in that order upon the last panel and then mount it all up with the gap you recommend. Right?
@@AridersLifeYT So against the shell 1) 10 mil rubber 2) 2 cms 3) cotton, reflectix and the panneling (deco last layer) altogether in contact. Right?
5 лет назад+2
100% correct. Radiant barriers must have an airspace to reflect the heat out or keep it in. 1 inch is recommended. The sliver coated poly board works the same way. If there is no air gap the there is no radiant (air transferred) heat to block.
At last someone using reflectix the right way, I was begining to hate The stuff because it seem to always be used wrong. Thanks for trying to correct the world.
I found the following statement on the Reflectix website. For either a reflective insulation or a radiant barrier, an air space of a minimum thickness is required on the reflective side of the product. (Most Reflectix® products are reflective (shiny) on both sides.) The reflective insulation benefit is derived from the interaction of the highly-reflective surface with the air space. If the reflective surface is in contact with another building material, it becomes a conductor (transmitting the energy by conduction). An air space may be specified on one or both sides of the product (always on a reflective side). Enclosed air spaces, when instructed, are required to provide the stated R-value.
It is funny how so many are quick to attack and/or question U and the information U put out... but will blindly follow others. I will follow the instructions and how U are doing this when it comes time to do myVan insulation. Maybe the loud ones are upset because they blindly followed and did no research of their own. Bob (of Cheap RV Living) has a video in which He expresses that reflectix IS radiant when used properly with the gap... no gap and the surface the reflectix is on becomes a conductor. So, I would think that would be making a whole lot of van extra warm or cold. Anyone can be wrong and questioned... even if it's "supposed" van life gurus, teachers, big wigs... whatever titles people seem to wanna think they are. Thankhz so much for sharing and glad U spoke up. I want to do myVan conversion as right as possible. Wholeness n Love ((-;
Great save, makes lots of good sense to me. I had always hesitated about my installation because of the low R-value placing the material without an air gap.
In the summertime in Florida the sun will turn the inside of a car into an oven. Using a sun screen which is basically Reflectix or a mimic, will reflect the sun back out of the car and significantly reduce the internal temperature. Reflectix bounces the heat back and not the cold. The idea is to keep the heat out in the summer and keep the heat in in the cold days. A hot object radiates heat and a cold object absorbs the heat. Objects touching each other will allow heat to flow from the warm area to the cool area, hence the dead air space. A thermos bottle, which has a dead air space, keeps heat in and heat out. Hot liquids will stay hot for a long time and cold liquids will stay cold for a long time. The design of the thermos with the inner dead air space maintains the temperature of the contents but there must be contact with the outside in the design and so heat is transferred from the hotter source to the cooler one but far less than in a non-thermos container. Insulation is used to minimize the transfer of heat from inside to outside and outside to inside. By minimizing the transfer of heat the use of HVAC for temperature control is reduced. A well insulated van requires less heat in winter and less cool in summer. Of course opening a door or window alters the internal temperature. No insulation is perfect and the customized often overlooks the metal struts putting the insulation just between them. Touch the side of your icebox and see how cold the metal is. Rather than conversation, it would be great if someone could use a device to measure the temperature of the bare metal walls or ceiling and then a patch of Reflectix against that wall. Both in summer and in winter. Then instead of these R ratings, we could see the actual difference in temperature. Let me revise this, it could be done using a sealed metal box with a thermometer inside. One box has bare metal and the other has Reflectix on all surfaces. Then the boxes could be left in direct summer sunlight and in the snow. Compare the internal temperatures of the two boxes. Boxes could be created with two layers of Reflectix, with layers of 2 inch foam board, etc. By creating these test boxes comparisons could be made under actual conditions rather than using theories. RV insulation has different problems than your typical home insulation. The thin metal walls are different from the thick concrete, wood or other materials used in building homes. A ceiling creates a dead air space and offers room to add thick insulation while an RV does not. A van or truck has limited inside space and adding two or three inches of foam core insulation reduces that significantly.
Well I’ll be Damned! Finally someone that knows what he’s talking about! All the MOE’s that have put Reflectix in their $300k+ Coaches that are putting it up against the inside cabinet walls and claim that it dramatically changes the temps. You are Spot-On Dude! I’m not into Vans but I’ll still subscribe & like just because you know WTF you’re talking about and I can finally point others to your video! LoL
Hello, great for calling this out, ive seen some instructional videos on RUclips that make me cringe, people who don’t know the difference between a screw, a nut and a bolt or even a tyre and a wheel and they’re making out they’re some sort of authority.
I think a lot of people are okay with having some insulation and a vapor barrier without worrying too much about min-maxing. Technically correct (my favourite kind!) isn't always practical - if it were, you wouldn't be making excuses about your own wall not having ideal insulation. Also worth considering is height. I'm 177cm/5'10 so I could have air gaps on the roof and not have to stoop in a high roof. For other people, that 1/2" here and there makes a world of difference to how liveable the space is.
Hey, I see I saw at least one of your videos 4 months ago. Subscribed today, though. You have done fantastic. I will be happy with far less when I reach my one year mark. I am only just last night started launching my channel. I can't do videos just yet.
also the heated air needs a place to move too and out this is a very critical point. as you shown in the r 21 picture it can never reach r 21 if the heat can't be vented out. this is the main factor to get r 21. I use this stuff all the time in construction but i also understand heat transfer and how it works
Well, there are 2 schools of thought with insulation. Everyone considers high r-value to be the benchmark and getting that is an issue when you have thin walls, such as in a camper van. However, e-value is the holy grail of insulation. Consider low-e glass, for instance. It's Low Emissive which means it doesn't let heat radiate through it. Emission is the #1 source of heat loss in a home. Reflective insulation, like Reflectix, doesn't allow heat to pass through it and reflects heat back to its source. NASA had the same problem in space: How do you insulate the ships and how do you insulate the astronauts on space walks? Do you have room for that gap? Is that enough? The gaps ARE important. But, those that put it up against the metal or other insulation are getting value from that. It's just that, a yurt or NASA are going to use multi-layer insulation with a much thinner gap to get those results. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multi-layer_insulation
Thanks for your video! I had forgotten about my own dad teaching me about air and fluffing insulation when he was still alive. Thanks for bringing back some happy memories. Have a thought, though.When it work to usebubblewrap in betweenthe reflectix layers? Give the roof more rigidity , and not just be hanging down an inch from the other part. Just a thought.
Kathy Endicott your not wrong. I'm sure it would only improve rigidity like you say though. My ceiling is done now. I'll be releasing a video on the entire ceiling soon.
It’s not about keeping air in or out with reflectix. It’s about being able to reflect the radiant heat back out. You need other stuff to air seal, and other traditional insulation with it
All you need to do is use some of that bubble wrap with the big bubbles and put it between the wall and the reflectix to get the 3/4 air gap. Then install your foam board insulation over the reflectix. Then you need a vapor barrier. I use clear plastic sheeting over all the foam insulation to seal the walls/floor and ceiling before putting up my wood panels. Also dont forget to do all the ribs. Be sure to mark their locations or you wont know where they are once they are all sealed in
Rocky Alvarez All this was good, except DO NOT install a vapor barrier. The van metal itself is already a vapor barrier. Installing another vapor barrier below only helps trap moisture between the van metal vapor barrier and your other vapor barrier. This can lead to rust and mold over time if the vapor is not allowed to vent freely below your insulation. Thank you for sharing though man, just wanted to point this out for others.
you want the air gap to face the direction that you want the heat to be retained in. So in this case you would want to have the reflectix on the rigid insulation and a 3/4" air gap before you put down your plywood/ceiling material. Either will work but if you want full function it makes sense to have the heated air within he heated space. It rigid insulation is to insulated exterior temperature from the interior.
You can do it your way if the goal is to help keep heat inside during winter. My way is for the summer, keeping heat out. Both ways are valid. I could have just put a space on both sides to receive both benefits as well. Although, I believe reflectix works best for reflecting summer heat. For winter time and keeping warm air in, I recommend getting the ridged polyiso. The reflectix only works by reflecting heat. The polyiso works by reflecting with the shiny side and also works by insulating conductive heat. More benefits.
hey Ryan, I like what you're doing here with this van build. thank you for putting this information out there. it's very vary valuable knowledge that people can apply to more than vans. for instance, i'm fortifying my RV and your channel helpful for that. thank you and good luck!
I agree that so many folks have attached the reflectix without any air gap. How did you attach the 1x2 on your ceiling? I don't see screws. Do you use size 10 or size 12 screws to attach wood to the van ribs?
T M the wood is attached with screws. The panel insulation is installed with contact cement. I used screws for the wood thaat were just the right length to go threw the ribs, but not the roof to the outside.
Use this. It should say survival tarp not blanket. F space blankets. arcturusgear.com/products/arcturus-xl-heavy-duty-survival-blanket-102-x-144-olive-green?variant=31315182616687¤cy=USD&gclid=CjwKCAjwmf_4BRABEiwAGhDfSdi3u-zfCBviXvx1LDGURChU8R_2LRLwGFgXNYGpNUJYhWXDDkt__xoCfacQAvD_BwE
Wait, don't use it for your van insulation, just on windows. Being an older video, I have learned much since then. While technically everything I say in this video is true, Reflectix just takes up too much space when properly installed. That space is better utilized by XPS board. XPS will always outperform Reflectix given the same amount of space. I'm making a video right now as an update for this one.
XPS board. Do not use reflectix on walls! Use XPS board. Watch my newest video on insulation for more info. But do not use reflectix on walls! Just in windows.
so starting from scratch, the first layer would be the reflectix with a little 3/4 inch gap between it and the metal of the van. Then on top of the reflectix another form of insulation? or could that be enough to just put the wood right over? Also if you put a layer between the reflectix and the van metal, wouldn’t you have to apply that layer first and doesn’t that ruin the point of the air gap?
If the material inside the air gap has breathing room, like wool, then it is not a waste, and adds to the qualities of reflectix. In this case, reflectix can be worth it. Still there are better materials like XPS board
My van has 1/4 inch ridges. I plan to hot glue (with a fat blob) 1/4" magnets .. I hope it's enough. , The van is black and I was thinking of painting the roof on top with a highly reflective chrome paint and velcroing a flexible 200w solar panel over the center resting on ridges so another air gap up there. I wonder if any value gluing reflectix to the bottom of the panel as well.
Jenny Eagan yes! All those things are good. I'm just leaving the space by choice. No other reason besides it's not sealed up and don't want to open the ceiling back up.
Where was this video a few days ago? I searched you tube and never saw it and I realized last night, not from why video, but from me freezing my ass off even though I had all of the sprinter lined with reflectix. It was a little warm up towards the ceiling but down towards the ground where my air mattress is was cold ass hell. So today I went and took back the 2 rolls I had left and got the foam board insulation with the foil on one side. But I thought, from what I read today, that the reflectix should go on the frame of the van and the board over it and then the panels. That's the way I was planning on doing it tonight after in drop my freight off and park in a wallet parking lot. I'll have to do some more reading before I start to see if you're right and the reflectix goes on top of the board or on the van. Thanks for the video, hopefully more people see it in the and don't mess up like I did.
Just remember to put a space towards the outside of the van before the reflectix. Do not put it directly on the van, because that literally only gives you R-1
Wouldnt it be better to put the reflectix on first (Closest to the van walls with a gap) and THEN insulation on top of the reflectix? That way the reflectix would reflect the radiant heat before the insulation, then insulation would just be a bonus layer to keep more heat out?
Actually my van does have a reflective layer before the board insulation. I agree reflective material first would be best, but conductive and convection insulation second.
@@OutdoorsEmbrace Ah nice, Thanks for the video, very helpful! im building my sprinter now, getting ready to do the insulation, im using reflectix and Thinsulate. I planned to glue reflectix to 1/2" studs im screwing onto metal van ribs. What do you think is a better way to apply the thinsulate; Glue directly to the reflectix? or glue it to my walls then screw the walls into the studs/reflectix?
As long as the side of the reflectix that will block heat has a air gap, then you can attach the thinsulate to the other side directly. It is negating the effectiveness of the reflextix on that side, but the other side is the important part in this scenario.
@@OutdoorsEmbrace Yes I was going to leave about a 1" gap between the metal van walls and the reflectix, then apply the thinsulate directly between the reflectix and the cedar walls im putting up. Or Do you think I could get away with putting reflectix directly on the ribs of the van, making the air gaps between the ribs? Or would that be too many thermal bridges? If so, would 1/2" thick studs attached to the ribs help with thermal bridging?
Help me….I am making an outside stray cat house. I really don’t know if I have my house made right now… does it even matter with a box and on my porch with this insulation? So far, I have the outside lined with the white facing out. The Inside is showing white. So….the cat that is inside this box needs to have the white showing inside or the silver showing? Please help me because we are at -13 degrees right now . Thank you so much! CJ
Honestly, putting it on the outside would reflect the heat of the sun making it colder in winter time. Instead put it on the inside to reflect the radiant heat of the cat back inwards. I wouldn't even consider reflectix for this purpose in winter. It's not really winter insulation. Get XPS board and make it an inch to 3 inches thick on all walls. Much better insulation and they will be very happy. Leave no bridges in the thermal insulation layers so drafts can't get in.
How did you do your walls? Same airgap as the roof? And same layer process? Half inch gap from metal to foam board, then 3/4 inch gap from foam board to reflectix then ply/wood? And any videos to show how you kept the walls well ventilated in the air gaps to stop condensation build up?
Yeah, so the walls are very similar. I put wooden frames in so it would keep the polyiso board in place, and then there is naturally a gap to the plywood with the reflectix glued to the inside of it. If you watch my build video, there is a quick look behind the wall I believe. Either that video or my bed bug video. Can't remember but one of those. Does this answer your question?
@@scenenuf For sure! Ask me questions any time and I will for sure answer as long as it's a new comment under the video. Sometimes I don't see new comments on threads like this one.
I’m not sure if anybody will see this but will this help condensation in the winter time? I’m having a hard time dealing with it and I don’t want any mold to start developing :/
That's a whole subject I really need to make a video about. You definitely don't want to place this stuff down as a vapor barrier. That would trap the condensation between it and the van metal (which is already a vapor barrier). Don't look at bad advice online. It's ok to have condensation overnight. Completely normal. The condensation should go away during day though. A van or car needs to breath and have adequate air flow for this to happen. Putting this up as a vapor barrier blocks that and will trap moisture. So you are good as is.
This is very helpful. Now, does anyone know how to use reflectix properly on van windows? How do we create window coverings with effective air gaps? Do we need air gaps when using reflectix in windows? I see that reflectix is very popular for van life folks who cover the reflectix with 'black out' cloth. Does the black out material cancel out all 'R' value?
I use plain reflexic on my van windows, but want to put a dark fabric to make my van more stealthy. I see lots of people do that, but i have to think the dark fabric would have a negative effect on keeping the heat out. I decided to apply dark window tint. (The do it yourself kind, looks pretty good). But i still wish this issue could be definitively answered!
What is the best layered setup for both hot summers and cold winters? First layer reflectix with a 3/4 inch gap between it and the van metal? or another form of insulation first directly on the van metal (or with gap also?), then reflectix with a gap?
I'd say put something in between first for the best, but I no longer recommend people ever use reflectix except in windows for a van. It just doesn't actually make sense given that it is expensive and space consuming, plus there are cheaper options that make a much bigger difference. Reflectix is an all around waste, only guarding heat transfer in one way, radiance. There is also 2 other types of heat transfer that it does not protect from. Conduction and convection (kind of doesn't unless installed as vapor barrier which you should never put a complete one in a van because the van metal is a vapor barrier already) it can cause rust and mold if a vapor barrier is done incorrectly.
@@OutdoorsEmbrace Thank you! I think i’m just going to go with foam board, can that go directly onto the van metal without doing the same thing as a vapor barrier causing rust and what not?
@@joefratt I put mine on metal directly. I didn't have an issue in my first van doing this over 4 years. XPS board is a great option, btw. Go with this over poly boards
Could you attach this to a heavy tarp with adhesive spray and then tarp down the Rv if it was sitting in place, with the reflective on the outside top of the tarp ...Would that work to help lower inside temp
Yeah, that's fine. The window is a clear solid. Thinking through thermodynamics, it makes sense you don't need a gap in the window. It still might help just a tiny bit more though to have a gap, but don't quote me on that.
I have thinsulate in my van and want to put reflectix on the roof. The thinsulate hangs a bit low. How much of a space is needed.? I don't have a high top and don't want my ceiling too low. This is a dog van and not a camper van but i want to be sure I get all the heat reflection I can. I live in GA and it's feckin hot in summer
The instructions for the proper use and installation of reflectics is included in the packaging. Just follow the instructions. Using it incorrectly can cause moisture buildup and mold.
yep good points IDK why people insulate the whole damn van with it, too expensive & needs air gaps to do anything. What I do is paint one side black and leave one side shiny, so during cold weather black side goes out= sun hits it warm up the place. In warm weather shiny side out keep it cool
I want to make reflectix covers for my minivan camper conversion. What is the proper way to make the window coverings? What should I not do when making them. There are so many videos out there but I have no idea who to trust. I need to keep the heat out of my van as I have two pug dogs that will be travelling with me.
Being in the window, you don't necessarily need a space. The reflectix reflects the light itself. It's rather simple. Just put them up in the window cut to shape, just like people put that reflective visor in their front window.
@@OutdoorsEmbrace Thanks for the response. Is it still okay to add some type of black fabric (or patterned fabric) to one side of the reflectix or does that negate the benefits of the reflectix?
I don't have an RV but, I do have a very old mobile home that is rotting away and haven't had working heat in years! I don't have much money therefore any of your tips would help me greatly!
In a perfect system, this air space would be vented. It still is air though, which does have some value in insulation. I no longer advise people to use Reflectix. Use XPS board instead. Reflectix only has R Value for Radiant heat. It has virtually 0 R Value for convection, and less than 1 when it comes to condution. It SHOULD be used for windows. But everywhere else is better utilized by cheaper XPS board than takes up less space for higher R value.
Finally got my van. And since your's is the best van build every I'm soaking up all your info. Good advice! Doubt mine will be as cool as yours but it will be pretty nice. Hopefully.
Should you not have any reflectix against the metal bc of condensation ? What if you have reflectix against the wall and then on the other Side of the wooden trim so you have two layers with an air gap ?
It's ok to have it against a wall, just don't seal it tight. It being against a wall is only going to reflect the radiation or heat on the shiny side with the air.
Thanks for sharing! I've seen almost every conversion camper van insulation installed wrong based on the information you are sharing. I've also read that installing directly against the metal wall would make your van hotter when you would want it to be cooler. I'm thinking of using denim insulation in addition to reflectix as insulation for my van (only on the walls and the ceiling, not the floor since there isn't much radiant heat there). Do you know if denim insulation counts as an air gap and so I would be able to install reflectix directly over it (layers would be: metal wall -> wool insulation -> reflectix)?
Chris Arriola if it has air inside of it then it counts, but only as much air as it holds. I've heard having something between is more effective than not having something between.
@@OutdoorsEmbrace something in between layers of reflectix IS more efficient because reflectix can’t do what it claims to. Simple science. Again, if the principle behind reflectix was actually able to perform as implied, that same science would let window manufacturers make R20 windows. But they can’t.
I know this vid is 2 years old, but it just saved me today. I literally bought my van 2 days ago, and have never built anything in my life. I picked up a roll of reflectix yesterday, and was planning to install it today. Before going outside, I decided to look for a few more vids for pointers and found yours. What you say makes perfect sense; I wasn't getting how the reflectix was working in other vans, when it has no space to reflect. Now, I have re-thought my whole approach. Thanks for this vid, I saw it in the nick of time.
Definitely I'm glad to have been an influence and help. Thank you!
How did it work during the summer? I used little foam cubes glued to the wall to mount reflectix to so there's an air gap then put my walls on top of that. There is like 1 inch air space
Same here lol I bought rolls of reflectix intending to stick it on with spray adhesive 😅 obviously idk what I’m doing!
Oh geez guys. Guess who just got a van and has no idea what to add to help break the heat but also prep for summer. Super small budget. Any advice is appreciated . Have plywood floors, with vinyl on that. One couch style 2x4 bed on driver side, thinking about a Maxx air fan, windows are cargo style and don't open.
@@Concerned_citizen1a for your front windows look up gutter guards van windows to create bug free ventilation, also rain guards for the window. This will create a cross breeze with your Maxx fan.
it's very important that people understand there is a wrong way to insulate and a right way. it's good that someone finally pointed out why the space between is important to keep in order for their insulation r-value to be where it should be. thanks Ryan...
I was about to insulate my van the way the other van lifers teach and thank god I watched your video because that would’ve been a huge disaster. I’m trying to beat the Australian heat. Thanks for your videos, they are a huge comfort.
What was your solution to use and have the gap for proper use?
Fellow Aussie, robertt
@@robertwilson18273:15
@@robertwilson1827I used corflute between the reflectix for my ute canopy where I have my fridge its worked a treat has a 1.5mm air holes all thru it only $8 for a huge sheet at bunnings.
And how did it go? Air gap?
This is how you get a one watched video subscription. Thank you for doing it right.
Thank you for some clarity. Some people use Reflectix as a water/moisture barrier and not as insulation. Far too many van RUclipsrs do most everything wrong. Solar panels fly off, mold illness strikes some, and other problems. RUclipsrs rarely go back and corrects old videos that have been monetized. They could go back and add text on a re-edit, but that would take time and effort.
rant over LOL
Reflectix is not water-resistant...🙄
Wow that was close 🥵 I'm starting my insulation on Thursday & it's just after midnight on Wednesday night 🌙 if I hadn't clicked on your video I'd of done it all wrong 😬 and froze 🥶 I've been researching van builds for around 2 years & absolutely nobody I've read about or watched have ever done it this way. It makes perfect sense, thank you for educating me. You have saved me from some very miserably cold nights x
For sure!
Finally a channel who explains it correctly
You nailed it pal. I can't believe the thousands of channels wrongly promoting how to Insulate. Like they're all just copying from each other.
I’m not sure if he explains this but the reason you need an air gap is because heat coming through has to be converted to Radiant energy form ... literally radiates off of the surface generating heat like a piece of metal being hit by the sun. It Has to radiate off of the surface of the heated side..it radiates off the surface through the USPS and then hits the reflective foil that type of energy just reflected. reflects back in the opposite direction.... if The radiant barrier is touching the surface it conducts the heat through the foil... the heat goes straight through and has very little if any of the radiant property is being used
Sir , what about repainting the roof with a special cooling component but still in white? Is there something that's exist?
For example that rhino paint made for truck bedding. Would that help any if painted on the roof and underneath roof
thanks alf 4 your explaination
The problem we van builders face is that specs on household insulation products like this do not transfer directly to our intended usage. Imagine 2 layers of this reflectix each with the proper air gap in addition to your main insulator. It robs too much internal volume this way. It also sets up structural issues...I mean what to you attach these layers to ? If the response is more layers of wooden framing, how heavy do you want your van to be ? Also if you intend to fix your furniture to your wooden framing it needs to be the frame that is directly supported by direct bonding to the metal shell. Not 2 layers in as each layer further away from the metal body gets weaker. I've seen lots of different approaches and many say they work for them in their daily usage. That's what matters. Personally I favour Kingspan style board with foil each side plus thinsulate in the awkward areas. I'm working on eliminating thermal bridges which many people (but not everone) know are the spots where your insulation is failing due to some form of contact between the cold side and the warmer side of your insulation. You can also minimise heat transfer by eliminating or reducing holes to the outside. This includes windows but also openings for toilet emptying or water fill up etc. You just don't need those outside doors if you plan the siting of these features next to van doors. Open the van door and pull out the cassette or fill the water. Cut down on thermal bridges. So much for your walls and ceiling. Floors can be just as simple. Cab areas are the big challenge. I once lived in a house with a poor heating system and a large through room. We put up a heavy curtain across the archway to split the room in half. (The gas fire was In the front half.) Instantly we had a cosy room. It was freezing going through the curtain to reach the kitchen to make a brew but the main living area was much better. Cab curtains work. What I've noticed is that even those who have 2 swivel seats place the curtain across the cab to cut it off completely including the seats. This puts some people off. Just fashion a shaped curtain to allow the seats to remain within your living space but the curtain to still hang low to the floor to keep the heat in and the cold from the windows out. On the topic of insulation we should not forget about adequate ventilation. Were talking oxygen to breath and airflow to expel moist air. Insulation and ventilation go hand in hand. My experience of van builds tells me that lack of ventilation is rarely a problem but bear it in mind. So the proper way to use reflectix is two layers 3/4 inch spaced from each other and everything else..........how ? Happy travels everyone. John
You stick the first layer on your walls, floor and ceeling. On the bare metal. It's only 1-2mm thick.
The 2nd layer of reflectix you stick on after your insulation. You don't need to have a literal "air" gap. Insulation is also an air gap, lots of tiny air gaps. The point is to have reflectix it on both sides. I think this idea is amazing. You need vapor barrier anyway, might as well use reflectix for it.
To secure things in place easier, you can use "stick pins" for insulation. They have super strong adhesive and a way to hold any insulation in place. (Make sure to cut the end off and close the whole with some aluminium tape.)
Done! If I got anything wrong in here, let me know. But this is basically as simple as you can make it.
@@millanferende6723 hi Millan. Your 1st Reflectix layer stuck to the metal has no air gap between it and the metal so cannot reflect heat back towards the Van's outside skin. It's a thermal bridge because the foil is a good conductor. The foil may as well be the van skin. The bubble part will give minimal insulation as every little surface area that would be insulated by the trapped air is immediately in contact with the outer metal too. Essentially this 1st layer is wasted. Also, if you need a second layer of reflectix on the inside of your main insulator then I would say your main insulator isn't doing its job. Obviously each person commenting has their own opinion, and I can only offer mine. For me Recticel type board AKA Kingspan ticks the boxes....it is readily available and fairly cheap, its flexible especially the 12mm thick stuff (which can be multi-layered) It already has a reflective foil on both sides - that is also a viable vapour barrier built in. I think it's fair to say that most van builds are very individual . Van contours differ a lot too. The drawback with Recticel is that it suits larger relatively flatter areas and isn't easy to fit to odd shapes. If you need to cut it up it can get messy. But with a little thought it can be applied in lots of areas saving time, effort and cost....and no..I don't work for either of those manufacturers ! Lol Happy travels. John
@@johnvancamper1987 Hey John, thank you for your input. Yeah you are right that Recticel board is pretty handy in that. It's also what one of my favorite van maker use.
You are right that we probably cannot know for sure, without testing.
In my eyes, when an object like an outer skin heats up, it releases heat as conduction ( touch) and radiation (IR) into the van.
The insulation layer slows down the conduction. And a layer of silver reflectix on the outside of the skin, reflects that IR back. But it passes through the heat from conduction.
Which is where insulation comes in. Now insulation gets hot too and transfer heat at conduction, as well as IR. And that is where the second layer comes in.
The only question really is, does reflectix work directly outside of a surface. And I believe yes, it reflects IR right back. But gets hot, and this is where second layer of reflectix comes in.
Or maybe the inner layer helps keep the van warm during winter and outer layer cold during summer. In both cases two layers is better than one.
This is what I believe of course to be true. We cannot know for sure without some dedicated scientific tests. But my logic and knowledge says this is true. I wish you best of luck in your build. :)
My mom did this when we were younger, a heavy curtain across the windows and doors from other rooms and our area became much warmer.☺
@ferende
Of course you need an air gap. Reflectix isn’t magic- it has to have a sealed envelope to work. No airgap is like almost no insulation value.
You can actually insulate way better than reflectix ever will with fitted foam. Reflectix can be useful but not how most people use it. There’s some science involved.
Last time I accessed CA building codes (& it's been a while) home values were:
ceiling~ R-30
walls~ R-19
floor~ R-13
approaching these numbers in an RV is the cat's meow!
THANK YOU! That’s exactly what my wife and i were saying about the R value. How do people not even look at the pictures.
Radiant material was popular in Florida to drape between roof rafters 30 yrs ago to combat ferocious sun. That material was like heavy duty tin foil vs bubble wrap sandwiched between foil like this roll. Of course there has to be an air gap for maximum effectiveness. It took me a week to install radiant barrier (using same product shown) on a fiberglass cowling, aka top hat, above the cab on a box truck with 3/4" air gap - sealed around the edges to create an air envelope. That was covered with rigid foam insulation board tiles to negotiate curves. Radiant barrier combined with rigid foam board impressed me as the best method and my box truck remains ambient air temperature - even when exposed to direct summer sun. Of course once the AC is turned on the benefits of R12 (conservative rating of 2" foam and radiant barrier) does the job.
You can buy plastic grid panels called aquarium separators cheap, then use a touch of glue in a few places on interior roof to create an air gap that you can glue reflectix onto. Im cutting up the panels into smaller pieces to spread em around
I have a cargo trailer and after watching many videos and listening to all the opinions, I believe a lot depends on the environment you spend your time in. As traveling Nomad I aim to spend my time in areas where insulation is only important at night. During the day I can shade my cargo trailer, open all windows, doors and screen it for insects, letting it breathe.
I use foam board only. Never sealed the gaps between outside metal and the metal frame so that it can not form condensation as their is a way for it to escape, unlike some who have sealed it so tight that mold is sure to form which is unhealthy to breathe. Then I used 1 1/2” xps and 2” xps without any adhesive. Then a 1/2” plywood and long screws to the metal frame of trailer. This allows it to be easily removed for trailer wiring, outlet wiring and inspection for any mold buildup issues. Also no wood touches metal of trailer making it have a thermal barrier naturally and no wood rot issues.
I am warm enough at night and cool enough as well. So far no mold as it can breathe behind the foam gaps left by the trailer manufacturers who never properly sealed it. (Which actually helped anyway)
As I mentioned before, shade and living in areas where insulation is not top priority, airing it out during the day. Only using heat or A/C at night or for a day or two in daylight hours is key to living the house free lifestyle.
If the foam needs replaced, it can be easily removed and the patterns are already cut. Walls can be disinfected and you start over fresh just like when you bought the cargo van.
So what if you have to replace the foam, it lasted many years, and you are still not paying a mortgage or rent, or property taxes. Seems like a win to me.
Sounds like you got it man! Good job.
@mehameha4453. When you say foam board, exactly what are you referring to, please? Is this the insulated board sold in sheets?
I would love to see some actual testing around van insulation e.g. actual metal boxes, left in the sun, with various insulations lined on the inside, and measure the temperature increases. And then the same but keeping heat in, with it cold outside. I must get onto that...
Eat Sleep Van
Check out my channel, I used a temperature gun and took some readings of bare metal, insulation board, insulation board with Luan over and glass.
I did that. No video. Reflectix works to slow the heating of my van in direct sun. Does Jack shit for cold weather, if you haven't heated the van. My other van has standard insulation and is better holding on to warmth from the day in to the night.
I insulated my minivan for Van life with reflectix and so far so good
You deserve a bloody medal! Have been looking all over the Tube for someone who explains this!
Cait Scullin thank you!
FINALLY i found someone who actually knows how vital air barriers are.
Just picking up your brain maybe... I stickied thinsulate black rubber 10 mm all under the ceiling. My priority is heat and cold together but what would be next?
@@ivanriverooo depends on how much insulation you want, after you have the 10mm black rubber on the ceiling, create a 2 to 3cm airgap and then use reflectix or some other insulation layer. then the roof panels go on. aka thos mdf roof panls that people cover etc. thats one way. or add another insulation layer to double the r value.
@@AridersLifeYT okay so I cannot put all layers of whatever stickied together?
@@AridersLifeYT for convenience I will attach the cotton wool and reflectix in that order upon the last panel and then mount it all up with the gap you recommend. Right?
@@AridersLifeYT So against the shell 1) 10 mil rubber 2) 2 cms 3) cotton, reflectix and the panneling (deco last layer) altogether in contact. Right?
100% correct. Radiant barriers must have an airspace to reflect the heat out or keep it in. 1 inch is recommended. The sliver coated poly board works the same way. If there is no air gap the there is no radiant (air transferred) heat to block.
Thank you for showing people the proper way Bob wells from cheap RV living does a great job as well
At last someone using reflectix the right way, I was begining to hate The stuff because it seem to always be used wrong. Thanks for trying to correct the world.
I found the following statement on the Reflectix website.
For either a reflective insulation or a radiant barrier, an air space of a minimum thickness is required on the reflective side of the product. (Most Reflectix® products are reflective (shiny) on both sides.) The reflective insulation benefit is derived from the interaction of the highly-reflective surface with the air space. If the reflective surface is in contact with another building material, it becomes a conductor (transmitting the energy by conduction). An air space may be specified on one or both sides of the product (always on a reflective side). Enclosed air spaces, when instructed, are required to provide the stated R-value.
It is funny how so many are quick to attack and/or question U and the information U put out... but will blindly follow others. I will follow the instructions and how U are doing this when it comes time to do myVan insulation. Maybe the loud ones are upset because they blindly followed and did no research of their own. Bob (of Cheap RV Living) has a video in which He expresses that reflectix IS radiant when used properly with the gap... no gap and the surface the reflectix is on becomes a conductor. So, I would think that would be making a whole lot of van extra warm or cold. Anyone can be wrong and questioned... even if it's "supposed" van life gurus, teachers, big wigs... whatever titles people seem to wanna think they are. Thankhz so much for sharing and glad U spoke up. I want to do myVan conversion as right as possible. Wholeness n Love ((-;
You make it a very big point to say and prove how others were wrong.. Thanks for the info!
U should include that the little bubbles hold heat or cold depending how it's installed. Nice to see someone who knows what's good
How do you install it to hold hot or cold?
Great save, makes lots of good sense to me. I had always hesitated about my installation because of the low R-value placing the material without an air gap.
Thanks. I knew about the gap but I'm glad it doesn't have to be a big gap. Your vid helped.
Awesome bro, that's exactly what I did! Shiny side foam board facing up, layer of reflectix, battens, then my cedar t&g.
That foam board has foil on both sides; just printed on one side. No issues installing with shiny in or out.
In the summertime in Florida the sun will turn the inside of a car into an oven. Using a sun screen which is basically Reflectix or a mimic, will reflect the sun back out of the car and significantly reduce the internal temperature. Reflectix bounces the heat back and not the cold. The idea is to keep the heat out in the summer and keep the heat in in the cold days. A hot object radiates heat and a cold object absorbs the heat. Objects touching each other will allow heat to flow from the warm area to the cool area, hence the dead air space.
A thermos bottle, which has a dead air space, keeps heat in and heat out. Hot liquids will stay hot for a long time and cold liquids will stay cold for a long time. The design of the thermos with the inner dead air space maintains the temperature of the contents but there must be contact with the outside in the design and so heat is transferred from the hotter source to the cooler one but far less than in a non-thermos container.
Insulation is used to minimize the transfer of heat from inside to outside and outside to inside. By minimizing the transfer of heat the use of HVAC for temperature control is reduced. A well insulated van requires less heat in winter and less cool in summer. Of course opening a door or window alters the internal temperature.
No insulation is perfect and the customized often overlooks the metal struts putting the insulation just between them. Touch the side of your icebox and see how cold the metal is.
Rather than conversation, it would be great if someone could use a device to measure the temperature of the bare metal walls or ceiling and then a patch of Reflectix against that wall. Both in summer and in winter. Then instead of these R ratings, we could see the actual difference in temperature. Let me revise this, it could be done using a sealed metal box with a thermometer inside. One box has bare metal and the other has Reflectix on all surfaces. Then the boxes could be left in direct summer sunlight and in the snow. Compare the internal temperatures of the two boxes. Boxes could be created with two layers of Reflectix, with layers of 2 inch foam board, etc.
By creating these test boxes comparisons could be made under actual conditions rather than using theories.
RV insulation has different problems than your typical home insulation. The thin metal walls are different from the thick concrete, wood or other materials used in building homes. A ceiling creates a dead air space and offers room to add thick insulation while an RV does not. A van or truck has limited inside space and adding two or three inches of foam core insulation reduces that significantly.
I might do this at some point. So many people have asked for it.
Will Prose would be a good person to do the testing, also, if Ryan doesn't have time.
Well I’ll be Damned! Finally someone that knows what he’s talking about! All the MOE’s that have put Reflectix in their $300k+ Coaches that are putting it up against the inside cabinet walls and claim that it dramatically changes the temps.
You are Spot-On Dude! I’m not into Vans but I’ll still subscribe & like just because you know WTF you’re talking about and I can finally point others to your video! LoL
Thanks Lane!
It's like layering in the winter, a layer against your skin and then a puffy layer as an air barrier
Hello, great for calling this out, ive seen some instructional videos on RUclips that make me cringe, people who don’t know the difference between a screw, a nut and a bolt or even a tyre and a wheel and they’re making out they’re some sort of authority.
If you install your second (interior layer) across the wooden ceiling braces you'll also elimnate thermal bridging at those points.
I think a lot of people are okay with having some insulation and a vapor barrier without worrying too much about min-maxing. Technically correct (my favourite kind!) isn't always practical - if it were, you wouldn't be making excuses about your own wall not having ideal insulation. Also worth considering is height. I'm 177cm/5'10 so I could have air gaps on the roof and not have to stoop in a high roof. For other people, that 1/2" here and there makes a world of difference to how liveable the space is.
Glad to see someone else get's it. So few do.
Hey, I see I saw at least one of your videos 4 months ago. Subscribed today, though. You have done fantastic. I will be happy with far less when I reach my one year mark. I am only just last night started launching my channel. I can't do videos just yet.
I have been looking for nearly an hour for help about this for my van. This video is helpful. Thanks
Sweet man! Thank you!
Thank you for the tip. I almost did it the wrong way. Good thing i saw your video just in time
Well structured video! Short and informative! Just the way RUclipsrs like their info videos!😁👍
also the heated air needs a place to move too and out this is a very critical point. as you shown in the r 21 picture it can never reach r 21 if the heat can't be vented out. this is the main
factor to get r 21. I use this stuff all the time in construction but i also understand heat transfer and how it works
Edward Woods Completely agree!
Well, there are 2 schools of thought with insulation. Everyone considers high r-value to be the benchmark and getting that is an issue when you have thin walls, such as in a camper van. However, e-value is the holy grail of insulation. Consider low-e glass, for instance. It's Low Emissive which means it doesn't let heat radiate through it.
Emission is the #1 source of heat loss in a home. Reflective insulation, like Reflectix, doesn't allow heat to pass through it and reflects heat back to its source. NASA had the same problem in space: How do you insulate the ships and how do you insulate the astronauts on space walks? Do you have room for that gap? Is that enough?
The gaps ARE important. But, those that put it up against the metal or other insulation are getting value from that. It's just that, a yurt or NASA are going to use multi-layer insulation with a much thinner gap to get those results. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multi-layer_insulation
cost is a factor in choosing bubble wrap over fancy glass lol.
Air gap is paramount when insulating. Unfortunately you lose a little space, but the advantage far outweighs any loss.
Thanks. Food for thought
Thanks for your video! I had forgotten about my own dad teaching me about air and fluffing insulation when he was still alive. Thanks for bringing back some happy memories.
Have a thought, though.When it work to usebubblewrap in betweenthe reflectix layers? Give the roof more rigidity , and not just be hanging down an inch from the other part. Just a thought.
Kathy Endicott your not wrong. I'm sure it would only improve rigidity like you say though. My ceiling is done now. I'll be releasing a video on the entire ceiling soon.
It is insane how many vanlife people throw up rolls of reflectix with no understanding of how it works.
It’s not about keeping air in or out with reflectix. It’s about being able to reflect the radiant heat back out. You need other stuff to air seal, and other traditional insulation with it
All you need to do is use some of that bubble wrap with the big bubbles and put it between the wall and the reflectix to get the 3/4 air gap. Then install your foam board insulation over the reflectix. Then you need a vapor barrier. I use clear plastic sheeting over all the foam insulation to seal the walls/floor and ceiling before putting up my wood panels. Also dont forget to do all the ribs. Be sure to mark their locations or you wont know where they are once they are all sealed in
Rocky Alvarez
All this was good, except DO NOT install a vapor barrier. The van metal itself is already a vapor barrier. Installing another vapor barrier below only helps trap moisture between the van metal vapor barrier and your other vapor barrier. This can lead to rust and mold over time if the vapor is not allowed to vent freely below your insulation.
Thank you for sharing though man, just wanted to point this out for others.
For technical info: A+ For music choice at the end :D- Thumbs up given.
Thank you so much for your knowledge! I appreciate it!
I agree, like in camping, heat is trapped in layers of material and dead air space.
Oh another question ...what affects would covering the van roof from the outside like adhering it to the outside of roof to reflect sun rays and rain
This would give the most benefit, as long as you could keep it away from weathering and wind damage.
you want the air gap to face the direction that you want the heat to be retained in. So in this case you would want to have the reflectix on the rigid insulation and a 3/4" air gap before you put down your plywood/ceiling material. Either will work but if you want full function it makes sense to have the heated air within he heated space. It rigid insulation is to insulated exterior temperature from the interior.
You can do it your way if the goal is to help keep heat inside during winter.
My way is for the summer, keeping heat out.
Both ways are valid. I could have just put a space on both sides to receive both benefits as well.
Although,
I believe reflectix works best for reflecting summer heat. For winter time and keeping warm air in, I recommend getting the ridged polyiso. The reflectix only works by reflecting heat. The polyiso works by reflecting with the shiny side and also works by insulating conductive heat. More benefits.
can you show the process of applying the reflectex to the van walls and ceiling? that would be great! thanx
I do actually explain how I did it on my second reflectix video. It's on my channel
hey Ryan, I like what you're doing here with this van build. thank you for putting this information out there. it's very vary valuable knowledge that people can apply to more than vans. for instance, i'm fortifying my RV and your channel helpful for that. thank you and good luck!
Thank you! That's awesome! Have any links I can follow for your RV build?
I agree that so many folks have attached the reflectix without any air gap.
How did you attach the 1x2 on your ceiling? I don't see screws. Do you use size 10 or size 12 screws to attach wood to the van ribs?
T M the wood is attached with screws. The panel insulation is installed with contact cement. I used screws for the wood thaat were just the right length to go threw the ribs, but not the roof to the outside.
Can I just put it outside on my van roof facing up to the sky? In the desert, want to keep heat out in summer.
For sure. It'll work best that way actually
Use this. It should say survival tarp not blanket. F space blankets.
arcturusgear.com/products/arcturus-xl-heavy-duty-survival-blanket-102-x-144-olive-green?variant=31315182616687¤cy=USD&gclid=CjwKCAjwmf_4BRABEiwAGhDfSdi3u-zfCBviXvx1LDGURChU8R_2LRLwGFgXNYGpNUJYhWXDDkt__xoCfacQAvD_BwE
Umm, umm, umm, umm, umm, but extremely good information. Just got my camping trailer.
Thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much. This helps me out a lot. I might be doing a lot of this on my own. Next summer I'm going to be living in a van with your dog :-)
Ryan, wouldn't the R-Tech on your van ceiling simulate an air gap between the Reflectix and the metal roof? Thanks, Harold
What tape should I purchase to install it? 😊
Wait, don't use it for your van insulation, just on windows. Being an older video, I have learned much since then. While technically everything I say in this video is true, Reflectix just takes up too much space when properly installed. That space is better utilized by XPS board. XPS will always outperform Reflectix given the same amount of space. I'm making a video right now as an update for this one.
Thanks or explaining the importance of the air gap
This is great, but I need a video showing me what tools are necessary to have in building a Truck bed/w/shell, insulating in particular?? Anyone?
Thanks for this video. What is the material you installed directly onto the van ceiling/walls?
XPS board. Do not use reflectix on walls! Use XPS board.
Watch my newest video on insulation for more info. But do not use reflectix on walls! Just in windows.
I am going to bring you into my Van today ------
thank you for explaining refextix !
Thank you for this.
Expected to see some installation taking place..
Thanks. Quite helpful.
so starting from scratch, the first layer would be the reflectix with a little 3/4 inch gap between it and the metal of the van. Then on top of the reflectix another form of insulation? or could that be enough to just put the wood right over? Also if you put a layer between the reflectix and the van metal, wouldn’t you have to apply that layer first and doesn’t that ruin the point of the air gap?
If the material inside the air gap has breathing room, like wool, then it is not a waste, and adds to the qualities of reflectix. In this case, reflectix can be worth it. Still there are better materials like XPS board
Great explanation!!!!
What do you put in the windows. Keep the sun from heating inside your van.
Great video!
My van has 1/4 inch ridges. I plan to hot glue (with a fat blob) 1/4" magnets .. I hope it's enough. ,
The van is black and I was thinking of painting the roof on top with a highly reflective chrome paint and velcroing a flexible 200w solar panel over the center resting on ridges so another air gap up there. I wonder if any value gluing reflectix to the bottom of the panel as well.
Good info! But what about adding as shelf or drawer liners? Maybe put bubblewrap inbetween..? Any info will be much appreciated and helpful.
Jenny Eagan yes! All those things are good.
I'm just leaving the space by choice. No other reason besides it's not sealed up and don't want to open the ceiling back up.
Where was this video a few days ago? I searched you tube and never saw it and I realized last night, not from why video, but from me freezing my ass off even though I had all of the sprinter lined with reflectix. It was a little warm up towards the ceiling but down towards the ground where my air mattress is was cold ass hell. So today I went and took back the 2 rolls I had left and got the foam board insulation with the foil on one side. But I thought, from what I read today, that the reflectix should go on the frame of the van and the board over it and then the panels. That's the way I was planning on doing it tonight after in drop my freight off and park in a wallet parking lot. I'll have to do some more reading before I start to see if you're right and the reflectix goes on top of the board or on the van. Thanks for the video, hopefully more people see it in the and don't mess up like I did.
Just remember to put a space towards the outside of the van before the reflectix. Do not put it directly on the van, because that literally only gives you R-1
Another youtube expert.
Never said I was. It's recommended you build a viewer base by "saying it as you learn it".
Bob Wells is very much an expert, and he agrees: m.ruclips.net/video/FVk8csC6OiM/видео.html
What about a window for overnight camping in a car where its mostly a token help , ie you are doing something better than nothing.
Wouldnt it be better to put the reflectix on first (Closest to the van walls with a gap) and THEN insulation on top of the reflectix? That way the reflectix would reflect the radiant heat before the insulation, then insulation would just be a bonus layer to keep more heat out?
Actually my van does have a reflective layer before the board insulation. I agree reflective material first would be best, but conductive and convection insulation second.
@@OutdoorsEmbrace Ah nice, Thanks for the video, very helpful! im building my sprinter now, getting ready to do the insulation, im using reflectix and Thinsulate. I planned to glue reflectix to 1/2" studs im screwing onto metal van ribs. What do you think is a better way to apply the thinsulate; Glue directly to the reflectix? or glue it to my walls then screw the walls into the studs/reflectix?
As long as the side of the reflectix that will block heat has a air gap, then you can attach the thinsulate to the other side directly. It is negating the effectiveness of the reflextix on that side, but the other side is the important part in this scenario.
@@OutdoorsEmbrace Yes I was going to leave about a 1" gap between the metal van walls and the reflectix, then apply the thinsulate directly between the reflectix and the cedar walls im putting up. Or Do you think I could get away with putting reflectix directly on the ribs of the van, making the air gaps between the ribs? Or would that be too many thermal bridges? If so, would 1/2" thick studs attached to the ribs help with thermal bridging?
Help me….I am making an outside stray cat house. I really don’t know if I have my house made right now… does it even matter with a box and on my porch with this insulation?
So far, I have the outside lined with the white facing out. The Inside is showing white.
So….the cat that is inside this box needs to have the white showing inside or the silver showing?
Please help me because we are at -13 degrees right now .
Thank you so much!
CJ
Honestly, putting it on the outside would reflect the heat of the sun making it colder in winter time. Instead put it on the inside to reflect the radiant heat of the cat back inwards. I wouldn't even consider reflectix for this purpose in winter. It's not really winter insulation. Get XPS board and make it an inch to 3 inches thick on all walls. Much better insulation and they will be very happy. Leave no bridges in the thermal insulation layers so drafts can't get in.
How did you do your walls? Same airgap as the roof? And same layer process? Half inch gap from metal to foam board, then 3/4 inch gap from foam board to reflectix then ply/wood? And any videos to show how you kept the walls well ventilated in the air gaps to stop condensation build up?
Yeah, so the walls are very similar. I put wooden frames in so it would keep the polyiso board in place, and then there is naturally a gap to the plywood with the reflectix glued to the inside of it. If you watch my build video, there is a quick look behind the wall I believe. Either that video or my bed bug video. Can't remember but one of those. Does this answer your question?
@@OutdoorsEmbrace didn't think I'd get a response honestly thank you! Will check them out!
@@scenenuf For sure! Ask me questions any time and I will for sure answer as long as it's a new comment under the video. Sometimes I don't see new comments on threads like this one.
I’m not sure if anybody will see this but will this help condensation in the winter time? I’m having a hard time dealing with it and I don’t want any mold to start developing :/
That's a whole subject I really need to make a video about.
You definitely don't want to place this stuff down as a vapor barrier. That would trap the condensation between it and the van metal (which is already a vapor barrier). Don't look at bad advice online. It's ok to have condensation overnight. Completely normal. The condensation should go away during day though. A van or car needs to breath and have adequate air flow for this to happen. Putting this up as a vapor barrier blocks that and will trap moisture. So you are good as is.
Do you glue it on? Screw it? Nail it? How do you hang it?
It was glued with high heat glue
This is very helpful. Now, does anyone know how to use reflectix properly on van windows? How do we create window coverings with effective air gaps? Do we need air gaps when using reflectix in windows?
I see that reflectix is very popular for van life folks who cover the reflectix with 'black out' cloth. Does the black out material cancel out all 'R' value?
Yes! Some one please answer this question before I make my window coverings haha
This is the answer to this question I've been looking for for days!! Plz someone help out with this answer
I use plain reflexic on my van windows, but want to put a dark fabric to make my van more stealthy. I see lots of people do that, but i have to think the dark fabric would have a negative effect on keeping the heat out. I decided to apply dark window tint. (The do it yourself kind, looks pretty good). But i still wish this issue could be definitively answered!
What is the best layered setup for both hot summers and cold winters? First layer reflectix with a 3/4 inch gap between it and the van metal? or another form of insulation first directly on the van metal (or with gap also?), then reflectix with a gap?
I'd say put something in between first for the best, but I no longer recommend people ever use reflectix except in windows for a van. It just doesn't actually make sense given that it is expensive and space consuming, plus there are cheaper options that make a much bigger difference. Reflectix is an all around waste, only guarding heat transfer in one way, radiance. There is also 2 other types of heat transfer that it does not protect from. Conduction and convection (kind of doesn't unless installed as vapor barrier which you should never put a complete one in a van because the van metal is a vapor barrier already) it can cause rust and mold if a vapor barrier is done incorrectly.
@@OutdoorsEmbrace Thank you! I think i’m just going to go with foam board, can that go directly onto the van metal without doing the same thing as a vapor barrier causing rust and what not?
@@joefratt I put mine on metal directly. I didn't have an issue in my first van doing this over 4 years. XPS board is a great option, btw. Go with this over poly boards
@@OutdoorsEmbrace got it thank you so much, what did you use to put it on the metal just some spray adhesive or something?
@@OutdoorsEmbrace I got R-Matte Silka pro select foam boards, good enough? lol thanks
I've seen a million van builds and every one of them put the reflectix right against the walls. Thanks for the great info! #RB
Could you attach this to a heavy tarp with adhesive spray and then tarp down the Rv if it was sitting in place, with the reflective on the outside top of the tarp ...Would that work to help lower inside temp
Yes! For sure! That's correct
Outstanding 👊
So i put some to cover the inside of suv window will that reflect at least some sunlight? ( right up against window )
Yeah, that's fine. The window is a clear solid. Thinking through thermodynamics, it makes sense you don't need a gap in the window. It still might help just a tiny bit more though to have a gap, but don't quote me on that.
@@OutdoorsEmbrace thanks, at first it was heating over 120° now back in the 80z...keeping solar rays out
Hi...how do you use reflection on windows...the correct way?
Could you do a video on that?
Thank you!
Given how thermodynamics works, a space isn't so much needed with it on the window. I will put it into the next reflectix video. I plan on one soon
@@OutdoorsEmbrace Thank you...
I have thinsulate in my van and want to put reflectix on the roof. The thinsulate hangs a bit low. How much of a space is needed.? I don't have a high top and don't want my ceiling too low. This is a dog van and not a camper van but i want to be sure I get all the heat reflection I can. I live in GA and it's feckin hot in summer
3/4ths inch gap for reflectix
The instructions for the proper use and installation of reflectics is included in the packaging. Just follow the instructions. Using it incorrectly can cause moisture buildup and mold.
Exactly!
What happens if you shove it in the airspace that is between the metal on the outside of your van?
What part do you mean?
yep good points IDK why people insulate the whole damn van with it, too expensive & needs air gaps to do anything.
What I do is paint one side black and leave one side shiny, so during cold weather black side goes out= sun hits it warm up the place. In warm weather shiny side out keep it cool
Ahhh nice thought!
I want to make reflectix covers for my minivan camper conversion. What is the proper way to make the window coverings? What should I not do when making them. There are so many videos out there but I have no idea who to trust. I need to keep the heat out of my van as I have two pug dogs that will be travelling with me.
Being in the window, you don't necessarily need a space. The reflectix reflects the light itself. It's rather simple. Just put them up in the window cut to shape, just like people put that reflective visor in their front window.
@@OutdoorsEmbrace Thanks for the response. Is it still okay to add some type of black fabric (or patterned fabric) to one side of the reflectix or does that negate the benefits of the reflectix?
@@lifewithpugwinkle you can add it to your side (inside). The outside should be kept reflective whether in window or not.
I don't have an RV but, I do have a very old mobile home that is rotting away and haven't had working heat in years! I don't have much money therefore any of your tips would help me greatly!
Hi, if i use Reflectix for the windows, does there need to be a gap between the glass and the reflectix as well? Thanks.
Where does the hotter air between those barriers go?
In a perfect system, this air space would be vented. It still is air though, which does have some value in insulation.
I no longer advise people to use Reflectix. Use XPS board instead. Reflectix only has R Value for Radiant heat. It has virtually 0 R Value for convection, and less than 1 when it comes to condution.
It SHOULD be used for windows. But everywhere else is better utilized by cheaper XPS board than takes up less space for higher R value.
Finally got my van. And since your's is the best van build every I'm soaking up all your info. Good advice! Doubt mine will be as cool as yours but it will be pretty nice. Hopefully.
Thank you, add me on Facebook so I can follow your build.
m.facebook.com/ryanbell88
@@OutdoorsEmbrace Ah man I don't facebook. Facebook is the devil. lol
Should you not have any reflectix against the metal bc of condensation ? What if you have reflectix against the wall and then on the other Side of the wooden trim so you have two layers with an air gap ?
It's ok to have it against a wall, just don't seal it tight. It being against a wall is only going to reflect the radiation or heat on the shiny side with the air.
*very informative*
Thanks for sharing! I've seen almost every conversion camper van insulation installed wrong based on the information you are sharing. I've also read that installing directly against the metal wall would make your van hotter when you would want it to be cooler.
I'm thinking of using denim insulation in addition to reflectix as insulation for my van (only on the walls and the ceiling, not the floor since there isn't much radiant heat there). Do you know if denim insulation counts as an air gap and so I would be able to install reflectix directly over it (layers would be: metal wall -> wool insulation -> reflectix)?
Chris Arriola if it has air inside of it then it counts, but only as much air as it holds. I've heard having something between is more effective than not having something between.
@@OutdoorsEmbrace something in between layers of reflectix IS more efficient because reflectix can’t do what it claims to. Simple science. Again, if the principle behind reflectix was actually able to perform as implied, that same science would let window manufacturers make R20 windows. But they can’t.