Just got this job done and its no walk in the park. Took whole day. This video helped alot. You can get away without loosing the exhaust, atleast on 124 2.3L coupe
Yes, what a PITA job to do. Really, couldn't they do it a little bit more complicated, say for "about 1cm" that it just wouldn't be possible to get it out at all! Gonna do the same on my W124 Om601 to check the condition of the engine internals and do some cleaning. Done it already on Audi B5 1.8 20v and it's the same kind of nightmare where you need to jack up the engine like insane and (at the same time) lower down the engine (front-suspension) subframe. I don't know who is giving those Germans such smart ideas. Brilliant. Thanks man, Really!!! You are helping me collecting the needed courage the get job done and giving some ideas what lies ahead. Wish you all the best!!!
Maybe undo the chassis ground first but otherwise, I don’t think that order matters. On reassembly I might have put them all back, then dropped it down but my memory is hazy.
This is very helpful, much appreciated. I guess the W124 M111 engine is similar. Do you remember how far you had to jack the engine up, or how thick the blocks of wood were that you put in between engine and mounts? Thanks!
I jacked it up as far as it would go I think the transmission was hitting the tunnel. The wood was just whatever was around I think some 2x4 chunks and then pieces of paint stirrers to get it as high as it would go. it would probably go higher if you lifted it with an engine hoist.
Okay, just got this job done on my w124 m111 engine, took me half a day. Pretty straightforward, using a hoist attached to the front engine lift eye until the engine hit the firewall. One of the crankshaft counter weights was in the way, by turning the crankshaft I got the necessary clearance for removal of the pan. Nothing other than the fan cover had to be loosened but this might not be the case with other w124 engine types.
Just to clarify... you used only paint sticks between the motor mounts and the cross member to lift the engine enough the pull the pan out? No other wood and no engine hoist. Thanks!
Another commenter mentioned they didn’t need to undo the exhaust. I was just following the factory procedure. Maybe Mercedes was worried about the stress on it as you change the engine angle, who knows.
Actually changing them wasn't terrible. This is the first and only set of bearings I've changed. I too thought I heard a knock noise but changing bearings didn't fix it. I figured I would try just for the experience since the bearings were like 30$ and the motor was tired anyways. When I did it I was working on my back on the garage floor - I probably should have put down some cardboard or something to atleast pretend to try to be clean. While the old bearings looked a little worn, I plastigaged a few of them and they were within spec, I think I also plastigaged a few of the new ones and then got tired of doing that since you have to torque it down then open it back up to check. Also, torquing the bolts down is tricky since its some ft/lbs then 90 degrees which is tough to eyeball and do when you are working in a constrained environment. As I recall I had to do 2 45 degree cranks on a few of them. I also reused the rod bolts since the old mercedes manual says you can if the shank of the bolt is thick enough (I did actually check). I also haven't driven the car a ton since I did this so I can't speak to longevity. That being said, it runs.
@@joshuaburke5339 Nope, did not do it. Too much work, spending 8 hours or so, id rather pay some for that same labor that has all the proper tools and space. :)
Авто/Мото
The calm voice of the narrator and then you saying 'motherfucker" when removing the pan was pure gold
Just got this job done and its no walk in the park. Took whole day. This video helped alot.
You can get away without loosing the exhaust, atleast on 124 2.3L coupe
Thanks for the video. Gives me a good idea of what I'll have to go through on my M104 on my W124. I'll be sure to reference the manuals as well.
Yes, what a PITA job to do. Really, couldn't they do it a little bit more complicated, say for "about 1cm" that it just wouldn't be possible to get it out at all!
Gonna do the same on my W124 Om601 to check the condition of the engine internals and do some cleaning.
Done it already on Audi B5 1.8 20v and it's the same kind of nightmare where you need to jack up the engine like insane and (at the same time) lower down the engine (front-suspension) subframe.
I don't know who is giving those Germans such smart ideas. Brilliant.
Thanks man, Really!!! You are helping me collecting the needed courage the get job done and giving some ideas what lies ahead. Wish you all the best!!!
Doing this right now. Not fun
The agony in your voice makes me consider just taking the motor out completely 😂
Gonna have to do this on my sl
Hi, is it advisable to jack the engine via the oil pan before loosening any bolts or would that damage the bell housing bolts?
Thanks
Maybe undo the chassis ground first but otherwise, I don’t think that order matters. On reassembly I might have put them all back, then dropped it down but my memory is hazy.
I have both the printed manual and a PDF of the repair manual. Did you find the steps for the removal of the oil pan in these ?
yea I basically referenced procedure 01-310 of the mercedes 190e service manual
This is very helpful, much appreciated. I guess the W124 M111 engine is similar. Do you remember how far you had to jack the engine up, or how thick the blocks of wood were that you put in between engine and mounts? Thanks!
I jacked it up as far as it would go I think the transmission was hitting the tunnel. The wood was just whatever was around I think some 2x4 chunks and then pieces of paint stirrers to get it as high as it would go. it would probably go higher if you lifted it with an engine hoist.
@@chr1ssss Thanks again!
Okay, just got this job done on my w124 m111 engine, took me half a day. Pretty straightforward, using a hoist attached to the front engine lift eye until the engine hit the firewall. One of the crankshaft counter weights was in the way, by turning the crankshaft I got the necessary clearance for removal of the pan. Nothing other than the fan cover had to be loosened but this might not be the case with other w124 engine types.
Just to clarify... you used only paint sticks between the motor mounts and the cross member to lift the engine enough the pull the pan out? No other wood and no engine hoist. Thanks!
I think I used a chunk of 2x4 and then paint sticks to fill in the small gap until there was no room. No engine hoist.
The video is a lot if help thank you forthe instructions! Is it necesary to dismantle the exaust?
Another commenter mentioned they didn’t need to undo the exhaust. I was just following the factory procedure. Maybe Mercedes was worried about the stress on it as you change the engine angle, who knows.
Thanks a lot for the video!! Just a question: if I need to, is there enough space to change the engine mounts while doing this job?
Yea for sure. The mounts don’t need the engine jacked as high
@@chr1ssss thanks!! Greetings from Italy!
we’re the bearings easy to change mate?? hearing a slight knock when i’m under the vehicle
Actually changing them wasn't terrible. This is the first and only set of bearings I've changed. I too thought I heard a knock noise but changing bearings didn't fix it. I figured I would try just for the experience since the bearings were like 30$ and the motor was tired anyways. When I did it I was working on my back on the garage floor - I probably should have put down some cardboard or something to atleast pretend to try to be clean. While the old bearings looked a little worn, I plastigaged a few of them and they were within spec, I think I also plastigaged a few of the new ones and then got tired of doing that since you have to torque it down then open it back up to check. Also, torquing the bolts down is tricky since its some ft/lbs then 90 degrees which is tough to eyeball and do when you are working in a constrained environment. As I recall I had to do 2 45 degree cranks on a few of them. I also reused the rod bolts since the old mercedes manual says you can if the shank of the bolt is thick enough (I did actually check). I also haven't driven the car a ton since I did this so I can't speak to longevity. That being said, it runs.
I have to do rhis 9n a w201 190e 2.3. is yours a 2.3 or a 2.6 or a diesel ?
2.3 (m102 as stated in the title)
What a Nightmare. I’m about to have to do this same DIY replacement with my 91’ 190E, just to replace the gasket..
Do I wanna know how it went...
Nice video man. How long did it take you using this method?
it took a while. if i did it again maybe 2-3 hours?
Jesus 2-3 hours. I just spent 9 and I havent wiggled the oil pan out yet
@@CapsAndBeanies FOOK me
@@arnog9959 im kinda nervous to do this on mine. how'd yours go?
@@joshuaburke5339 Nope, did not do it. Too much work, spending 8 hours or so, id rather pay some for that same labor that has all the proper tools and space. :)
Συγχαρητήρια για αυτό το βίντεο.Ηταν πολύ κατατοπιστικο σε εργασία που έκανα στο αυτοκίνητο μου γιατί το καπάκι του λαδιού είχε σπάσει!
Have a non accelerated version of this anywhere ?
Well yea but I didn’t upload it. Why did you want it slowed down?
Just use youtube built in slow time player maybe?
@@chr1ssss I'm looking at the details.
what a freaking hassle