Want to thank you for putting this video up and supporting the scale modeling hobby by passing down your knowledge. Your videos are always informative and so well put together. Thanks again!
I was Paasche Airbrush Demonstrator for several years here in Australia (I'm a Yank still on R&R). The AB was a basic super brush that was designed for photo retouch work in around 1904. I still have 3 of them...LOL ... Love the post. Sadly Paasche has quality control issues this past year and they are no longer in Chicago. Jars often have too much chrome as does the set screw holding the fluid nozzle assembly. Iwata makes a single action, but none are sold in Australia. It looks like we are going to drop the single action lines. Good information, nice post.
The great thing about single action is the consistency when base coating. Occurred to me today while cleaning double action airbrushes that they can be turned into single action by locking the needle in a slightly open position with the needle chuck. You still have the freedom to pull back the trigger to clear clogs.
Paul, thanks so much for the informative video. I hope I can find more videos on your channel that will help me better understand airbrushing technique; your experienced and technical explanations are a godsend on RUclips.
A great video as always, Paul! Thanks for the info. The Paasche H appears to be similar to the Badger 350 I used for years when I was a teenager. I switched to a Badger 200, then a 150, moved on to an Aztec 470. Now I use a Iwata Neo for the majority of my painting, and Badger RK-1 Renegade Krome for fine detail work.
I had a Badger 350 external mix airbrush. Badger was the only airbrush my local hobby shop had. A friend let me try his Paasche H3, and I was impressed by how much better atomization it had, and how much smoother the finish was. I had to find out where he'd bought the H3, and bought one for myself. I knew about the other Paasche airbrushes, but seeing how much better an internal mix airbrush is to my venerable H3 is a real eye opener. Thanks!
As always, thank you for a very informative video. I started off with the Badger 150 and it was a great starter airbrush. I learned a lot from using it. It's been semi-retired and used only for cleaning other airbrushes. Thanks again Paul!
Great review, well detailed - thank you👍😊 I think that for my current budget for an airbrush, for use with primers etc the Paasche SI seems like a reasonable fit. The H is venerable, often well liked, remarkable in many ways, but not for me/my needs. the Iwata is probably a great airbrush, but a little out of my current budget for a simple to use and clean SA airbrush (I've had Iwatas before and they're great but can be fiddly to clean compared to some other brands - I have two H&S airbrushes for detail work and a couple of Sparmax trigger airbrushes for large area work. I need something to get primers and base coats on, in my small indoor booth, from my quieter diaphragm compressor that I can use (indoors) in the winter months🤔😉😊👍✌️
I have both the Badger 200 and the Pashe H these were both Christmas Gifts from my late father when I was in High school. I still use them to this day. and have been very pleased with them. although I have been noticing the Badger isn't working as well as it once dig yet I don't know why? I keep it cleaned. the tip is fine no bends or cracks in the needle or head. yet it just isn't spraying like it use too.
Thanks for the video! You mentioned the Badger 150. That's the airbrush I own, but I never got decent results with it back when I was using it a lot. In retrospect that was mostly due to the membrane compressor that had no reservoir, pressure regulator or moisture trap and could hardly deliver enough pressure to blow a cotton ball away. Well, that may be exaggerating a bit, but it was really a dud. The only thing it's any good at is making a lot of noise. I never really beat an aerosol at anything with it. Anyway, coming back to the hobby I would like to be able to prime and paint small to medium sized models, so I am looking into replacing the compressor and am now wondering whether I should just go for a clean start and replace the airbrush as well. What would you say are the strong points of this airbrush, if any? Combined with a good compressor, is it worth keeping it around, or are there other affordable airbrushes that can easily render it obsolete? Would love to hear your thoughts on this.
I paint HO model trains and started with a Paasche #3 H yet noticed the more grainy finish. I have a few double action Badger 150 and 155 and a Vega 2000 never tried to practice enough to get good consistent results for base coats. I liked the Badger 200. I have a Paasche V1 #3 and a VLS #3 . Basically my question is I have a older Vega 600 SA has the same head as the old Badger 200 and 150 yet the Revell/Vega 600 is a med head .5mm so it's basically as small as a #1 Paasche tip , question is will a .5mm tip do a good job painting with reduced enamel ? When I had the Badger 200 and 150 I got the large or heavy head and it was closer to a #3 Paasche and worked well both came with the IL of fine tip and wouldn't spray well to cover. Paasche #3 seems to work the best for me as far as tip size which makes me wonder if the .5mm tip will work well enough. All I read is the Badger tip sizes in relation to how fine to how large the pattern will be say 1/32"-2 1/2" withe Badger med .5mm nothing about paint .
I'll be going over those in the next video on double action airbrushes ... I will be going into detail about the relationship about material and application as it relates to head design.
For those that like the H - What can be done to improve the atomisation? What variable of paint ratios, paint type and psi would give the best results?
Huh? Don't know the tip sizes on the H? Paasche has it on their website. The 3 sizes are #1- 0.45 mm, #3- 0.65 mm, #5- 1.05 mm One big advantage of the H . . .it's easier to clean when using enamels or lacquers, as you don't have the paint running through the body of the brush. Don't know why this never gets mentioned. Also, they've been around so long you can often get used ones in great shape on ebay for $50 or less for the whole set. Got mine for $35. I also have the VL and the Vision, so I have double action too. I can get a 1.05 mm tip fora VL, but still prefer the H for lacquers and enamels on large surfaces. As for the finish. I just sprayed the primer for a P-47 with the 0.65 mm tip and have NO orange peel like you showed. Perfectly smooth finish. Used Badger's Stynylrez straight out of the bottle. Usually people who complain about the finish aren't familiar enough with setting the pressure and paint mix for the H to get a smooth base coat.
I was considering the Paasche H for priming with Stynelrez as I thought it would be easier to clean. Thoughts on that as an option for a dedicated primer brush or are there better choices. Primarily doing 1/48 aircraft. Thanks!
Why in the world would you want to put down your base coat of material with a tool that will leave you with less than an optimally smooth surface? You would be better off with a spray can.
I’m no expert with the model h but I do own one and specifically use it for the stynylrez primer lineup on gundam model kits and I find as long as I put a drop or two of the tamiya paint retarder the stynylrez self leveling properties performs really well and makes clean up a piece of cake but whatever you do make sure there are no lacquer thinner in the cup or nozzle if you clean with that before you paint or else it will clog terribly.
You probably wouldn't ... but that wasn't the point of the video. The video addresses achieving the best atomization and resulting finish from a single action airbrush ... for those modelers who maybe only use a single action airbrush. It's not what I use ... but not everyone is the same. I'm trying to make this series as comprehensive as possible.
Scale Model Workshop makes sense I was just wondering why you had all of them Huge fan have learner a lot from you that has really been outside the box 😉
Want to thank you for putting this video up and supporting the scale modeling hobby by passing down your knowledge. Your videos are always informative and so well put together. Thanks again!
I was Paasche Airbrush Demonstrator for several years here in Australia (I'm a Yank still on R&R). The AB was a basic super brush that was designed for photo retouch work in around 1904. I still have 3 of them...LOL ... Love the post. Sadly Paasche has quality control issues this past year and they are no longer in Chicago. Jars often have too much chrome as does the set screw holding the fluid nozzle assembly. Iwata makes a single action, but none are sold in Australia. It looks like we are going to drop the single action lines. Good information, nice post.
The great thing about single action is the consistency when base coating.
Occurred to me today while cleaning double action airbrushes that they can be turned into single action by locking the needle in a slightly open position with the needle chuck. You still have the freedom to pull back the trigger to clear clogs.
Paul, thanks so much for the informative video. I hope I can find more videos on your channel that will help me better understand airbrushing technique; your experienced and technical explanations are a godsend on RUclips.
A great video as always, Paul! Thanks for the info. The Paasche H appears to be similar to the Badger 350 I used for years when I was a teenager. I switched to a Badger 200, then a 150, moved on to an Aztec 470. Now I use a Iwata Neo for the majority of my painting, and Badger RK-1 Renegade Krome for fine detail work.
I had a Badger 350 external mix airbrush. Badger was the only airbrush my local hobby shop had. A friend let me try his Paasche H3, and I was impressed by how much better atomization it had, and how much smoother the finish was. I had to find out where he'd bought the H3, and bought one for myself. I knew about the other Paasche airbrushes, but seeing how much better an internal mix airbrush is to my venerable H3 is a real eye opener. Thanks!
As always, thank you for a very informative video. I started off with the Badger 150 and it was a great starter airbrush. I learned a lot from using it. It's been semi-retired and used only for cleaning other airbrushes. Thanks again Paul!
Your voice is so relaxing!
Great video. You go over things step by step and you take your time explaining so people can really understand it. Thank you for your video.
Thank you!
Great video, Mr. Budzik. Both informative and educational at the same time. I look forward to watching the next video on airbrushes. 😀
Great review, well detailed - thank you👍😊
I think that for my current budget for an airbrush, for use with primers etc the Paasche SI seems like a reasonable fit.
The H is venerable, often well liked, remarkable in many ways, but not for me/my needs. the Iwata is probably a great airbrush, but a little out of my current budget for a simple to use and clean SA airbrush (I've had Iwatas before and they're great but can be fiddly to clean compared to some other brands - I have two H&S airbrushes for detail work and a couple of Sparmax trigger airbrushes for large area work. I need something to get primers and base coats on, in my small indoor booth, from my quieter diaphragm compressor that I can use (indoors) in the winter months🤔😉😊👍✌️
Excellent description and video.
I have both the Badger 200 and the Pashe H these were both Christmas Gifts from my late father when I was in High school. I still use them to this day. and have been very pleased with them. although I have been noticing the Badger isn't working as well as it once dig yet I don't know why? I keep it cleaned. the tip is fine no bends or cracks in the needle or head. yet it just isn't spraying like it use too.
Great video Paul, I love your channel
My favorite single action airbrush is the creos procon boy 0.3mm Mr hobby
Another very helpful video.
Thanks for the video!
You mentioned the Badger 150. That's the airbrush I own, but I never got decent results with it back when I was using it a lot. In retrospect that was mostly due to the membrane compressor that had no reservoir, pressure regulator or moisture trap and could hardly deliver enough pressure to blow a cotton ball away. Well, that may be exaggerating a bit, but it was really a dud. The only thing it's any good at is making a lot of noise. I never really beat an aerosol at anything with it.
Anyway, coming back to the hobby I would like to be able to prime and paint small to medium sized models, so I am looking into replacing the compressor and am now wondering whether I should just go for a clean start and replace the airbrush as well. What would you say are the strong points of this airbrush, if any? Combined with a good compressor, is it worth keeping it around, or are there other affordable airbrushes that can easily render it obsolete?
Would love to hear your thoughts on this.
Are you looking for bottle feed or gravity feed? Single or double action?
@@scale-model-workshop Double action, but the feed type may be either.
I know this is a late comment. Have you ever done a comprehensive video on the options, set up and use of siphon feed airbrushes?
I paint HO model trains and started with a Paasche #3 H yet noticed the more grainy finish. I have a few double action Badger 150 and 155 and a Vega 2000 never tried to practice enough to get good consistent results for base coats. I liked the Badger 200. I have a Paasche V1 #3 and a VLS #3 . Basically my question is I have a older Vega 600 SA has the same head as the old Badger 200 and 150 yet the Revell/Vega 600 is a med head .5mm so it's basically as small as a #1 Paasche tip , question is will a .5mm tip do a good job painting with reduced enamel ? When I had the Badger 200 and 150 I got the large or heavy head and it was closer to a #3 Paasche and worked well both came with the IL of fine tip and wouldn't spray well to cover. Paasche #3 seems to work the best for me as far as tip size which makes me wonder if the .5mm tip will work well enough. All I read is the Badger tip sizes in relation to how fine to how large the pattern will be say 1/32"-2 1/2" withe Badger med .5mm nothing about paint .
So a Pasche is basically a carburetor
Thanks for this video
I think that one of the guns in your thumbnail is a double action brush, isn't it? the one on the bottom on the left side?
Can you please cover on small nozzle like 0.15 mm against 0.35 mm. Would like to hear your thoughts since many claim it really does wonders.
I'll be going over those in the next video on double action airbrushes ... I will be going into detail about the relationship about material and application as it relates to head design.
Awesome!
For those that like the H - What can be done to improve the atomisation?
What variable of paint ratios, paint type and psi would give the best results?
There isn't a way. The external design of the airbrush has inherent limitations. ruclips.net/video/LpZHmt2Yhc0/видео.html
Huh? Don't know the tip sizes on the H? Paasche has it on their website. The 3 sizes are
#1- 0.45 mm, #3- 0.65 mm, #5- 1.05 mm
One big advantage of the H . . .it's easier to clean when using enamels or lacquers, as you don't have the paint running through the body of the brush. Don't know why this never gets mentioned. Also, they've been around so long you can often get used ones in great shape on ebay for $50 or less for the whole set. Got mine for $35.
I also have the VL and the Vision, so I have double action too. I can get a 1.05 mm tip fora VL, but still prefer the H for lacquers and enamels on large surfaces. As for the finish. I just sprayed the primer for a P-47 with the 0.65 mm tip and have NO orange peel like you showed. Perfectly smooth finish. Used Badger's Stynylrez straight out of the bottle. Usually people who complain about the finish aren't familiar enough with setting the pressure and paint mix for the H to get a smooth base coat.
Paasche H-Series tip size: #1=.45mm #3=.65mm #5=1.05mm or 1, 3, 5 lines
I was considering the Paasche H for priming with Stynelrez as I thought it would be easier to clean. Thoughts on that as an option for a dedicated primer brush or are there better choices. Primarily doing 1/48 aircraft. Thanks!
Why in the world would you want to put down your base coat of material with a tool that will leave you with less than an optimally smooth surface? You would be better off with a spray can.
Then what would be the best option for Stynelrez? I like the primer but don’t want to use my main airbrush for it.
I’m no expert with the model h but I do own one and specifically use it for the stynylrez primer lineup on gundam model kits and I find as long as I put a drop or two of the tamiya paint retarder the stynylrez self leveling properties performs really well and makes clean up a piece of cake but whatever you do make sure there are no lacquer thinner in the cup or nozzle if you clean with that before you paint or else it will clog terribly.
Super useful!
I'm just wondering why anyone would want a single action for modelling if you own a mini spray gun and a double action airbrush. Any thoughts?
You probably wouldn't ... but that wasn't the point of the video. The video addresses achieving the best atomization and resulting finish from a single action airbrush ... for those modelers who maybe only use a single action airbrush. It's not what I use ... but not everyone is the same. I'm trying to make this series as comprehensive as possible.
Scale Model Workshop makes sense I was just wondering why you had all of them
Huge fan have learner a lot from you that has really been outside the box 😉
I've always been a bit of a collector
Scale Model Workshop can't argue with that. Thanks mr.Budzik