New Parts = No Brakes and Other Problems | 1964 Chevy K20 Project
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- This cool 1964 Chevy K20 pickup has no brakes. That's a relatively easy fix, but of course we find many other issues with the driveline.
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Careful pulling that in. There is bulk oil and a propane tank there to stop you if you need them though.
Don't forget the first step on the set of stairs acts as a wheel chock.
Too soon?
Nice to see some more people who know that sympathy sits somewhere between sh*t and syphilis in the dictionary
@@DraftySatyr In my dictionary, it's spelled "simpathy", as it's always close to shit.
That dash alone makes that truck worth saving. Instrument cluster was rare in '66. From the good old days when you could get in under the hood, sit on the inner fender, and work on it in the rain. Nice truck.
Best regards from Indiana.
Heh, yeah, and everyone and their dog has one in a garage somewhere that they're "restoring". My neighbor has one that's turned into a forever project, a few months ago, I bought an engine hoist from a guy on CL, he had one in his garage that was also a forever project. These things are everywhere, and always in progress of being restored (but never finished)
So what? And how does that affect you? If it takes a year or twenty, at least they've got one.
@@farmerbill6855 and enjoying themselves while they are doing it.
@@farmerbill6855 It's a word to the wise that a Restoration is a losing game on a truck that is so, so common even now (not cost effective), and a forever restoration is even worse. Best to repair what you can, make it a "Rustoration" instead (basically a repaired, functioning truck) and enjoy it NOW. I don't like the patina fad either but if it's there and it's not active decay, and your truck is otherwise preserved, it's okay.
Wow,I didn't realize that there were so many rules to owning a truck...piss off m'rf'rs! Stay in your own lane...
Waited all week to watch Wes work. Guess I gotta watch him work today, instead of doing my own work.
Yup. Everything has to come to a complete halt when Wes puts out a new video.
@@mummabear01 3
I love hard work, I could watch it all day
You know Wes, I would hope that the owner would realize that this almost 60 year-old truck is from a different time. It was not designed to go 60-70mph. 45 is about right for safety & longevity. It actually is a good setup, 283, rather than a monster motor, 4 sp manual, and low gears. They were made to work, not cruise on the expressway. Towing, hauling, and snowplowing, and working on the farm is what was in mind when these were new. We are too used to the boulevard cruisers that they call trucks today. A/C, power everything, 4WD that is electrically operated, leather interiors, sunroofs, all mated to a weak, undersized frame that will be history in 5-7 years. You won't find any of these as survivors, they won't stay together that long. All of this for 75 thousand dollars.
Well said, I own two trucks, one is kinda from that old school frame of mind, a 1988 Ford F250 diesel 7.3 IDI with tall gears that revs higher than what we're used to at 65 mph. She was built to pull. And a 2014 Toyota Tundra as a daily which is the latter your described but unlike the big three, not a rust bucket from the time it rolled off the factory floor. The Tundra is a comfy truck.
I had a 65 with a straight six 4 spd w/granny gear . Top speed was about 50-55
How much does he want for it? That truck needs lots of TLC!
A/C is a requirement in the Gulf states. Ask how I know......
right on. I have a truck that has a blue tooth in it. Not long after I bought it I opened the hood to take a look at it and didn't see any teeth at all much less a blue one.
The best way to install U joints is show a before and after dadada shot that effectively ends the moaning from the peanut gallery, or alternatively install each cap with a different method just to make sure all the couch mechanics have their preferred method used. Guaranteed to trigger a few sensitive people and make my belly roll.
I'll be honest. That first part of the sentence, i thought i had a stroke.
Well put. I’ve never done u-joints but would lean towards what Wes or Eric O would do for sure.
Tell them if they don't like the way that you do U joints then you just won't do them anymore.
Most important thing about u-joints is make sure the needles are where they belong after that who cares. I have used a press, vice and hammer as far as the grease zirk goes as long as you can grease it once done putting the shaft back in.
Apply a small amount of axel grease into the cap before you start installing them will aid in keeping them in the cup properly aligned and aid in assuring proper installation # statelaw
Wes, I worked as an engineer for Arvin Meritor's heavy duty driveline division for years. Your method to assemble the yoke and roller bearings is fine. For RPL (Rockwell Perma-Lube) production, we used a hydraulic press, for field assembly a vise was OK to use. Lastly, after the yoke assembly was fully assembled with the snap rings, we had operators smack the yoke with a steel hammer (real hard!). This centered (stress relieved) the cross between the ears on the yoke. Primitive, but it worked. Love all your videos.
Wes saving pedestrians one life at a time! Vise and a presser socket... Yeppers
Hi Wes
You are great to fix things (knot Cross)
I have not fixet
Arne
Also, there is no beauty in the "Flexy hose"! That's horrendous when you can't even get the proper hoses for a factory GM small block application... After seeing this pickup I'm not surprised one bit.
They got the proper flexi hoses...
@@WatchWesWork Is there an improper flexy hose?
Wes I have a 1964 Suburban. I swapped my rear axle to a common 14 bolt, and it’s an easy swap because the spring mount perches are the same width, at least on the 3/4 ton axles. The one tons are a bit narrower, to fit dual wheels. I also swapped transmissions to an NV3500 from a 90s Chevy, which gave me overdrive. My tires are 31” dia, and with 3:73 gears, the engine spins 1800 at 60 mph. You are correct that there is an equalizer bar for those e-brake cables. That brake master cylinder is definitely not stock, as these trucks still had single pot masters. Looks like the common corvette master, which is designed for disc brakes. Thanks for the video. Oh ya, I suspect Novak Adapt could supply you with a new transmission output yoke.
C/k 10 half ton c/k20 3/4 ton, c/k30 one ton. The one in the video is a k20. C 2wd, K 4wd.
In 1975 I bought the 1966 version of the same truck for $600.00 from the grandfather of one of the Duck Dynasty guys. He farmed in West Monroe, Louisiana and the truck spent most of it's life on that farm and around the local town. It had less than 20,000 miles on it. It still had the original wooden bed flooring because he had soaked it with creosote at some point. I used it for several years as a to and from work truck. I had a Sears and Roebuck universal under the dashboard air conditioner installed in it. It worked great unless you were sitting at a stop light and the A/C compressor would come on nearly stalling the engine. I think the engine was either a 250 or 292 C.U. straight 6. I'm old now and can't rightly remember.
El Mirage, Arizona
Can't wait for that 20+ part series of Wes trying to fix all those niggles in this truck. Thumbs up man!
If Wes do get the job of fixing it up, wow, what a fine ‘ol lady she will be then !!!!! And I hope the customer asks Wes to get rid of the over grown tires. Stock would be so much better looking, imho.
Minimum 😁
He might be able to retire with that truck alone
Hope I'm not the only one who thought this guy said the n word after skim reading over this 😂
@@stephen2028 the tires are the ONLY thing that DOES look good on that truck
Well, the botched brake job was simply a litany of "rookie mistakes" which I understand since most young people never saw drum braking systems. That said, it is extremely important for anyone considering purchasing a "restored" classic vehicle to get her up on a lift and have someone who knows what they are doing closely examine everything. Of course there will be a lot of non-standard things done over the years but they still need to be done correctly. Making sketchy parts for a parking brake are one thing but not installing U-joints properly (especially the retainers) can be catastrophically dangerous. Imagine if that U-joint let go at highway speeds. I have seen vehicles launched into the air by a broken U-joint causing the driveshaft to act like a pole-vault. Any mechanic can tell you that if it can go wrong, it will go wrong at the worst possible moment. (Murphy's Law)
I'm with you on not trusting anybody. It's not a bad thing. Sometimes I don't even trust myself.
Yeah I was going to say I have questioned myself almost as much as I've questioned other people, "did I tighten that bolt?"
"Am I doing this correctly?"
You can probably get away with swapping gear sets in the front axle as you were thinking in the video. For the rear end, I’m pretty sure GM went to their corporate 14 bolt rear end in the 3/4 and 1 ton trucks when they phased out the Eaton that’s in it now. The 14 bolt for a 3/4 or a 1 ton single rear wheel truck (edit: the pinion angle will probably need to be adjusted because of the divorced transfer case) should be a direct bolt in. If you can find one new enough, it should have disc brakes and possibly 3.73 gears in it. 3.73 gears along with another transmission with an overdrive gear in it should get him where he wants to be with better drivability on the highway. Additionally, the parking brake equalizer from about an ‘81 or earlier square body can probably be adapted to the ‘64 truck very easily.
Not having the knowledge you seem to have. My thought was similar. Any late model parts could be swapped in at a reasonable cost from the salvage yard.
Of course. Totally agree. 😂
The rear springs on the '73 and newer trucks are a little farther apart than on the '72 and earlier , but if the spring bushings have enough slop in them ( and most do ) it will go in , shock mounts are way different though . '55/'57 Chevy passenger cars use a similar E brake set up , and they reproduce everything for them .
@@bobbrinkerhoff3592
The spring perches will probably have to be cut loose to adjust the pinion angle to align it better with the divorced transfer case and shorter rear drive shaft, they can be moved in at the same time to match the spring pins.
@@ralfie8801 why change pinion angles when GM never bothered to worry about such things . The rear ends for short and long bed trucks are identical, even though the wheel bases are 12 - 14 inches different over the years . The 14 bolt and original rears might be a couple inches different in length from center of yoke to center of axle housing . Way too many people know absolutely nothing about proper pinion angles and driveshaft phasing , and then wonder why the u joints fall prematurely and they have vibration issues .
Wes, I think your wife might be expecting one of these trucks for Christmas. You can tell by the look on her face that she really likes the truck!
He's gonna need a bigger tree this year.
I guess Wes would go for any Toyota so he don't need to worry about what would go wrong with the car every month
If she drives it, she'll change her mind. I had the pleasure of driving a '68 for several months. There was no way I could have worn a seat belt because I had to stand up to turn the steering wheel. I didn't have enough power to turn it without getting my butt up out of the seat and putting everything I had behind it. It is not a woman's vehicle.
@@thirzapeevey2395 You are 100% correct! My mom used to tell me how hard it was for her when she was 17/18/19 to drive my grandfather’s 1968 Camaro that had no power brakes or power steering.
@@djosbun nothing like letting the wheel slide through your hand as it corrects itself in a manual steering car. My first car was a 65 Ford Falcon. No power nothing in that car. The 200 cubic six could barely get out of its own way. Old times.
I had an experience with that exact master cylinder setup 40 years ago. Brand new out of the box and bled it just as you did on the truck= Soft pedal. Took it off and clamped in the vise and repeated the process using the screw driver to push piston method and put back on = good pedal feel. Turned out the pedal assembly in the truck was not getting a full stroke out of the piston so it wasn’t getting fully bled. Food for thought.
Yes sir I have had that trouble trying to pedal bleed a brake system where the clearance between the actuator rod and the master cylinder is so much that you cannot get a full stroke on the master cylinder. You can pressure bleed the system to get the air out but not so hot when one is trying to pedal bleed the system.
I love watch old vehicles getting fixed! These are the vehicles that I grew up with. Santa still hasn't left me a classic car in the driveway. I'll have to speak to my husband.
Just go out and get one
Great idea if you're sick of your husband sitting around the house cuz a classic is almost never done being worked on
54 convertible, light blue!
@@Handle4570 We're both over 70, so buying a third car seems a bit wasteful. But I may get one eventually!
I love mechanical work instead of electronic troubleshooting and repair
Noisy, wind blowing in..... Sounds like every other old truck.
Great video Wes, and don't worry about the comments from keyboard critics. I have put universal joints in many different types of vehicles and have used every method out there since 1965. What ever works for Wes and your customers is what works. Thanx for sharing, love your sense of humor. Happy holidays to you and your family.😃
Been watching for a couple years. Just want to say love your content and how well you explain things. Much love to you and your family from Canada 🍁👌
As a low-level diyer, I appreciate the seemingly conscious effort to point out the diy mistakes without totally shredding the mistakes. I look forward to a follow up on this truck!
Same here! makes a guy feel like a dog with his tail in between his legs haha
I have the same truck in 66, yes please do a follow up
the guy has no idea or mechanical skills whatsoever..he bought an ornament,,nice ''looking'' truck.. did well on the tires though.. 1 point for that.. wander what his job is..or age, . most people today dont know or never lift the hood..
That's a cool truck but whomever "restored" it wasn't any mechanic, or they knew that potential buyers would never look underneath it . I see a lot of stuff like that on local car lots. Way overpriced and the work is poor.
“Cool Chevy stuff, I guess.” LOL
Thanks for the video.
On U-joints, I spent over 25 years in the driveline industry, only thing we made sure of was to line up grease zerks, and install them anyway that works as long as, like you say, as long as the needles don’t fall into the bottom of the cap, your good. Thanks for the ride along sir, I enjoyed this one.
I would have to watch someone like you professionally do it a few times because I would lose all those needles SOMEHOW.
@@tacomas9602 put grease on the needles in the caps, leave a void in the center of the cap for grease displacement on assembly, it helps hold them in place while you install on the trunnions of joint body, it’s also a good pre-assembly lube, I also pump grease into the zerk to fill the lube tunnels before assembly. The rest of assembly depends on situation/ circumstances you find yourself in, practice on an old joint if you can find one good enough to practice on, hope this helps.
The correct way to replace U-joints, is the way that works for you with the tools you have available. Keyboard mechanics be damned! Great job Wes! I'd love to lay my hands on a truck that looked that good. Even if she does need a little love.
I do prefer a pressing action to a percussive action when installing them though.
Yeah, sure, that works. But no hammers. That's the one thing that's not acceptable. And not just because it alters the metal, but also because it wastes your (the mechanic's) time and because the customer will have a shorter life span on said part. Like whenever i see bumblebees smack the steering arm... visibly denting and deforming the metal... no es bueno.
@@aserta if i have to use a hammer there its my orange dead blow hammer!
I have a lead hammer 🔨 that I cast from a tomato sauce can with a three-quarter inch pipe for a handle. I can beat hell out of a lot of stuff and not worry about distorting it.
@@stevanrose7439 lol that's awesome
I can't believe nobody has mentioned the front lift blocks. That was always been a no-no in my book.
When I first clicked the video I thought I clicked on a whistlingdiesel video. Glad you're not destroying it!!!
Being a person involved in the driveline industry for 25+ years ,I put thousands of u-joints in just like you did and they work fine, those two drivelines are dangerous the way you found them, nice catch sir. Thanks for the video even if I am months late watching it.
It’s a shame it has so many problems, the truck is beautiful! Can’t say that too often…
I like your videos because generally at the end, the problem has been fixed. This is like peeling an onion, it just goes on and on. Hopefully the owner will keep going and fix those issues, especially fixing the brakes. Another commenter talked about 20+ videos on fixing this up. Go for it, I'll watch every one of them!
Guess I’m gonna be going into work about 25 mins later than usual. Darn these “icy road” delays. Hahahah.. As always from one Wes to another thanks for the great videos! Cheers
This truck is an excellent candidate for a body swap to a much newer chassis and drivetrain. I love how you put your heart in each video.
Wes vs drum brakes round two! I share his "love" of 4 wheel drums. I cut my teeth on first gen Mustangs with 4 wheel drum brakes, and to this day (45 years later), I have an undying loathing and hatred for them. Those brakes were anemic, impossible to adjust correctly and erratic; and that was on a good day. Add a little moisture to the equation and now you had brakes that barely functioned at all.
Disc brakes are a godsend.
I had a '68 Cougar, and I could never get the fronts to stop pulling to one side...
yep. i had a 57 Chevy Bel Air, same setup. You could get 1 good stop, then you had to add distance....
The brakes on our 67 Pontiac station wagon were good for one panic stop. After that, you were driving an unbraked miss
I love the creative use of the mig wire pliers @26:40. Years ago when I was a young guy struggling with U-joints, I gave up in frustration and went to the local driveline shop. The sage old driveline specialist with decades of experience took pity on me and showed me how to install them correctly. never had a problem since. Keep doing what you do Wes and ignore the keyboard warriors!
Replacement parts for that truck are available from places like LMC Truck and National Truck Depot so who knows if it's original. We restored my dad's '69 C-10 using some replacement body and interior parts. Good work Wes.
That is a super clean 283 stroker very well loved and taken care of @Watch Wes Work
If you need to worry about the grease hole in your u joint being in compression then you need u joints with no grease hole or the ones that grease thru the cap so they are only drilled on center.
Wow that slip Yok straightened out well @Watch Wes Work
Ditch the rubber lines, clamps and zip ties and just use short pieces of copper nickle brake line. It's easy to make, bend and it holds it's shape. Bleeding made simple! Look at the GM 14B for a replacement axle - should be a fairly easy direct swap. That truck is a piece of work!
The type of precision needed to work on something like a newer model diesel high pressure fuel pump is not required to install ujoints. They’re fine as long as you don’t screw up the needles and you get the retainers in. When I was younger I’ve dropped them in the mud, reused old one and put different ones together to get what I needed. The ujoint installation isn’t even on the list of worries I’d have with that truck. Good work Wes. Love the content.
I find that pounding on that joint closes up the groove where the retaining ring goes in and you can't get it to seat. I have had to make a small cutoff wheel to get in there and get that groove wide enough to accept the retainer.
Wes, I've actually reached a point, where it brings a smile to my face knowing that somewhere, somebody is losing their sh*t over how I do something 🤣🤣
Thanks for bringing us along on what looks to be an epic saga. As usual your work ethic shines through.
Truck would look way cooler stock.😎
You working on the U-joints reminded me of an old Ford pickup truck I bought. The front axle U-joints were really bad so I went to replace them. I worked, hammered, pried and even used a 20 ton press and could not get the caps to move to remove the old ones from the axle shafts. I ended up having to use my plasma cutter and torch the things out. I have never had U-joints on a vehicle stuck like that. I don't think that old truck had any kind of service done before I got a hold of it. Love your video's.
Wes, just imagine riding in the back of one of those (3 on the tree 2wd) with a camper shell sitting on a lawn chair for 3000 miles round trip. Not enough room in the front seat for four plus no AC. That was way back in the late 60s and my ears rang for two days from the road noise. Swore in my youth that I would only fly to any long distance destination after the trip and have held to my oath to this day.
Recommended by Snowball engineering !
Enjoying your channel and the wry humour ! 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Oh it's mint, you can tell by the color 🤣
Hey Wes, I had bought an abused ‘67 4x4 Chevy 3/4 ton pick in ‘84 it’d spent its entire life on a farm and hadn’t even been licensed since 1970! Drove it 38 miles home with almost no brakes! Nobody could get drum for it so my brother in law and I decided to swap in the rear ended out of a 74 3/4 ton! We measured a bunch of stuff and found out the spring purches were almost exact so we put the trucks tail to tail raised them up with a hoist dropped out the ‘67 first then the ‘74 and literally bolted everything back together! Used a hybrid U-joint to make the driveshaft work! Beings the ‘74 was camper special I got the 8700lbs leaf springs and huge brakes! Swapped out the 4:56 front gears to match the 4:11 rears and drove the beast everywhere since I was swamp meeting back then in that Silver beast! Lots of fond memories!
when she says i aint been out here since your spill She means your near death experience. And when she says dont ding that door she means you aint ever gunna live it down lol😊😊👍
First of all the way you installed the U-Joints I see no problem with the installation.
I would like to see more content on this truck. The customer needs to let you go through the entire truck from bumper to bumper with a fine tooth comb.
It deserves your love to fix it right. Have a Blessed One Sir
Ever since I started watching your channel a few years ago, I’ve started paying attention to bull haulers and I’ve never see one that wasn’t straight piped. And I live around cattle country so I see quite a few of them.
That truck brings back Memories, I learned how to Drive in a 63, 3-On-A-Tree in the middle of Winter in a Wrigley's parking lot back in 1972, I was 11 Years Old 🤣😂, DAMN That Was FUN, and Maybe a 373 in the Rear?
Love your videos Wez! Don´t care about all those "hobby experts" don´t let them under your skinn, you are doing a great job, continue with that.
Had my mouth gaping wide open bending that yolk back. Great work!
That’s a pretty sweet truck. I’m glad the rust belt hasn’t gotten to it yet.
It did. They covered up the rust
That is something I've noticed over the years with "builds" like that. Looks really nice on the outside and maybe has a killer engine but that's where the builders talents ended and the rest is cobbled together. Sad because then it gets passed on to a buyer who thinks they're getting a nice rig.........
Great video as always Wes, would love to see more of this truck. It's got potential!
Yeah, I've noticed guys of a certain age, and ability level (or lack thereof) are all "restoring" one of these as a never ending --project-- money pit...
Yes sir there are people out there who just look at the cosmetics and do not realize that you just cannot put lipstick on a pig when it comes down to mechanical integrity. I look for a vehicle that is original and something to work with. If it looks good due to cosmetics I have a tendency to look at the stuff that counts and all of that hardware store style type of fabricating done on this truck is a turnoff. I bought a 72 Chevrolet 4 wheel drive unit from a fellow back in May of 79 and he was running down all of the things wrong with the old truck, but the powerplant was solid and all there (just needed some TLC). Come May this year I will have owned the truck for 44 yrs.
Possibly already done with the truck, but you can swap the whole axle assembly on these to the squarebody 73-87 axles and get open knuckle front and disc brakes. A 14bolt rear will fit as well and you can get a disc brake kit for those as well. I swapped them on my 68 that was 4 whl drum and they bolted in. The only thing I am not 100% sure on this truck is if the springs are the same distance apart, but I think they are. If you put the newer axles and factory brakes on it, then you can use the same master cyl and proportioning valve off the squarebody too. Oh, the 66 and older were single reservoir master cylinders, so the one on this truck is not factory.
Last thing, I have had and been around a ton of these trucks and this is the only one I have seen a factory tach dash in, that might be worth as much as the whole truck to be honest...
My guess is the instruments are from a big truck. Most of them had all gauges with the tach too.
Those gauges look to be aftermarket replacements. They look too new to be original and the old truck most likely did not have a factory tach originally.
Emergency Brake Load Equalizer definitely missing @Watch Wes Work
I feel all of your pain with the u-joints and all of the above might be true if the thing had a 800 horsepower but it's a small block.... So I believe you're correct sir although I'm sure you already knew all of that keep up the good work always enjoy the channel
High idle?? Probably just needs ANOTHER spring or two for the throttle return. I think about 3 or 4 springs all jammed in there should git the job done! 🤣🤣
64 chevy half ton with a 283 was my daily driver for 20 years. Thanks for the memories.
Had the same in high school, one of the most reliable vehicles that I've ever owned.
For a 1964 3/4 ton truck, it's just fine... If the tachometer is correct (not likely), the gearing is just fine... It's almost 60 years old, cut it a little (a lot) of slack...
Finally! Something in my wheelhouse.
I'm jellious of all the old 4x4 pickups I keep seeing on RUclips . . . I want one.
I use to have a 1989 F-150 4x4 that I traded in and wished I had kept
You're a brave man for letting go that thing after it slipped out of the front yoke.
I am so glad to see you get to work on a quality product that is not a complicated mass of wire and hoses due to a rolling computer.
I’m too old to buy repos and flippers so I just watch young technicians . The things one sees in dyi repairs are hilarious . Great job Wes .
👆Thanks for watching, love you so much fan!
Tell Aɴᴅʀᴇɪ Jɪᴋʜ, you were referred by me he has something new to share with you easily get in touch with him..
Ahhh! the classic truck problems! when you first pulled it in I was like that looks mint then you start seeing where it was probably body filled. But still cool rig.
This is a refreshing change. Not a scan tool or wiring diagram in sight.
I agree people complain on how many ways to Sunday your installing u joints wrong they do it on my channel As well u joints don't go smooth ever Not even on vehicles that live in arizona @Watch Wes Work
If your customers are happily paying and bits aren't falling off it's a fair bet what you're doing is right. There's always an expert ready to tell you what you should have done. Think happy thoughts Wes,you display incredible patience.
Classic car 101. Get the motor and wheels squared away! Do the brakes last. Stopping is for cowards!
When you were installing the driveshaft, there was one point it looked like it would drop on your head. I could hear Matt's "OSHA violation" song playing.
Good video Wes! Keep up the good work!
Guy wants to winter drive that in northern Illinois? I've seen plenty of guys make the same mistake with vintage vehicles. "I'll wash it" "they're made to be driven". Always ends up the same. Another rusted out pile. That old iron just doesn't stand a chance with the "road treatment" they put down these days.
Oh man, what a pile. I always commend you on some of the vehicles you work on. You are a saint and a scholar, sir.
Had too say it before the video even gets started.... beautiful, gorgeous, awesome pick up....
Love the old body styles and the cab interiors. Engines were easy to work on, could actually crawl in and sit on the fender well, feet on the frame. But the brakes were a pain. If he is going to change the gear ratio, huge benefit in just upgrading to modern transmission, transfer case and axles with disk brakes. Thanks for sharing.
not all that hard to do either just get the stuff from a wrecking yard......may have to rework your mounts a bit though......
If you want to mess up all that why not just drive a modern truck?
@@chevyguy131 Because anyone that isn't poor can buy one but built trucks are more unique.
Pinion Bearing on the rear differential is the sound you are hearing when under power and coasting.. I used to have a 64 Suburban. I know the sounds and repairs on a personal bases!! LOL
Wow at that slip yoke it's Spread A ton Like a Penut butter Sandwich yikes @Watch Wes Work
Good darn job Wes..That year of truck will always be popular....
That is a sweet old truck, regardless of issues. The brake adjusting reminded me of high school auto shop. In 1967.
Don't worry Old Max is not a quitter he is going to get it sooner or later.😊 He reminds me of you it will be fixed and figured out no matter what, he will succeed also.
“She’s MINT”. Literally original sixties pastel mint paint.
i really question that master cylinder and brake system. watching you bench bleed and the bubbles going back toward the fitting tells me there is no residual check valves that all drum brakes use. that truck came with a single master cylinder. am willing to bet he didn't put in a combo valve in case one circuit blows out either. i wouldnt want the liability on that accident waiting to happen.
That master cylinder been leaking awhile with all the peeling paint on the power brake booster @Watch Wes Work
Lots of problems underneath Yikes @Watch Wes Work
Judging how roughy an engine runs on the "glass smooth" Illinois roads is clearly a fine art requiring much experience and finesse.
I'm torn between keeping old cars original, or setting it up with 4 wheel disc brakes and sensible upgrades to make it more driveable.
In the 20 plus years I've been a mechanic I have probably installed a thousand ujoints. I think I've used every installation method known to man including smashing one rock against another rock in the woods. They've all seemed to work just fine. The most important thing is that you actually get the u-joint installed properly. The installation method doesn't really matter in my experience. You're basically beating one heavy piece of steel into another heavy piece of steel. Again as long as you're not doing something stupid like trying to beat the cap in sideways or something like that you'll be fine.
As long as you had your head tilted to the left, your tongue to the right and your eyes screwed up while "massaging" the uni joint with a rock (or two) you will be fine. Retired mechanic in Land Down Under.
I had a good friend who had a nice original 70' Cuda 318 2 barrel and he had big dreams and ZERO mechanical ability and by the time he was done that car was absolutely trashed,,, every modification was done improperly and was the wrong thing to do in the 1st place and where it was a nice driver before when he finished it was literally undrivable ...
He ruined that car and there was really no way back except for a total professional restoration...
Looks like the caps slipped out the cap straps on the u joints good repair and editing @27:57 @Watch Wes Work
Hey Wes , may want to bring up the front lift blocks with the owner . Thought that was dangerous to do
Wes, the Mortske man said that you are the best brake man around, that we should request to see more break jobs from you. 🙂 LOL
Looks like the Back Line on that master cylinder isnt threaded all the way in @15:36 @Watch Wes Work
Yuppers, Wes definitely has some "interesting" problem plagued vehicles bought to him to figure out which,what and how to fix them.
This one is a hum dinger as they use to say when it was built back in the age of heavy metal vehicles.
But, our intrepid Wes managed to at least get it to stop and kind stay put.
My Dad would say "You can hardly tell how many people died in the accident!" if he saw that truck
What a Gorgeous old rig I would love to find one of these rigs @Watch Wes Work
This video is so good, I’m watching it a second time. The dialogue about all the springs is priceless!!
I would be suspect of the push rod on the master not being to the proper length with the swap of the booster. Oh and the untold of the hidden truths under the brake drums.
Seeing under that rig gave me a good chuckle. Thanks Wes great entertainment is so pleasing.