Nice detailed video. I’ve been searching high and low for a more in dept overview of this specific carb. Where would one focus if their bike won’t cold start at all using the choke. Even once the engine finally fires up (usually countless attempts and a little nursing with the throttle) any kind of choke initiation will kill the bike instantly. Can I add, once the bike is finally idling and warm, it will start right up with no hesitation and idle smoothly on her own. I’ve always used the choke to cold start with no issue. I can confirm the choke circuit has been functional up until recent months. I’ve pulled to carb to bits twice now cleaning and replacing everything a carb rebuild kit has to offer. I’d appreciate any direction you may suggest. For what it’s worth, I have recently had to install a replacement choke plunger.
First thing to check would be teh air box drain, if it isn't sealed dirt goes through the engine ruining compression. You can find out about this on our megacity performance facebook page, click photos/albums/common problems if thats good likely the cut off valve/fuel tap diaphragm has failed robbing vacuum required by the starting fuel circuit or plugged starter jet
@@megacityperformance3523 thanks for your reply. I’m not writing as a KLR rider. Interestingly enough, I’m here because my Kawasaki Tr250 (Japanese domestic version of the Kawasaki estrella ) shares a similar carb. Due to the lack of carburettor gurus willing to share detailed information I’ve found myself in the comment section of the KLR hard cores. If I’m not mistaken my cvk32 is rather similar in construction and operation to the cvk40 right? Your tear down tutorials have coached me through disassembly and re kitting with little to zero difference other than the jet sizes. If I were to ask your knowledge on the functionality of the carb alone, what would cause the symptoms explained earlier?
Good video but you were not clear on the starter circuit. Can you explain where that Circuit gets its air? I think the air comes in under the diaphragm at the enrichment valve which then pulls fuel up. But where does the fuel come out? I can’t find any good info on this that makes sense. If it’s a separate circuit and I believe it is then where does both the air and fuel come in, mix then exit? The reason I ask is because my bike starts on choke then dies and no amount of adjustment to the lever can keep it running while cold on choke. It eventually runs and idles perfectly. I think it’s getting fuel and no air mixed in when cold.
You're right, the starter circuit pulls air from under the diaphragm. Fuel is drawn from the fixed starter jet and is drawn by the air just mentioned passing the hole in the bottom of the starter plunger bore. Hope that is clear
@@megacityperformance3523 yes thanks that makes sense. The weird thing is it fires and dies. This is on an 88 klr 250 and someone has done a lot of weird stuff to it so im trying to sort it all out. Thanks
I think i figured it out. Took the carb off and could see the passage ways for the fuel I hadn’t noticed before. Realized that I was using the “choke” to start but my bike is actually running rich enough it doesn’t need much “choke”. I think the aftermarket pipe that’s on it flows a lot more causing a rich condition. I always thought aftermarket pipes cause a lean condition but an article from Kevin Camron (Cycle World) explains how they can run rich.
My 2018 KLR 650 with 7000 miles started having difficulty starting last week, it took a few tries and some pop before the starter works. I installed new spark plug months ago. If I'm running it off and on again everything is perfect. What do you think the problem would be? Thanks
@@carvalhonj You won't see anything by looking at it, only way to diagnose is symptomatically. there is a disable mod on the ppage posted, and a delete mod. Disable to verify or delete if you want to rule out the very very common failure for ever.
@@megacityperformance3523 Yes I agree. I just mentioned the manual petcock as with the stock petcock you normally just leave it "on". I am going to carefully follow your videos and go through the carb slowly. (got to get some gloves! the Permatex carb cleaner burns!) Thanks for your reply
@@Heraclitus188 probably air cut off valve is leaking, when it does it robs vacuum from the choke system. Check my Megacity performance page on how to disable the air cut off.
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Exactly the information I was looking for. This information is not covered in other instructional videos! Keep up the good work.
Nice detailed video. I’ve been searching high and low for a more in dept overview of this specific carb. Where would one focus if their bike won’t cold start at all using the choke. Even once the engine finally fires up (usually countless attempts and a little nursing with the throttle) any kind of choke initiation will kill the bike instantly. Can I add, once the bike is finally idling and warm, it will start right up with no hesitation and idle smoothly on her own. I’ve always used the choke to cold start with no issue. I can confirm the choke circuit has been functional up until recent months. I’ve pulled to carb to bits twice now cleaning and replacing everything a carb rebuild kit has to offer. I’d appreciate any direction you may suggest. For what it’s worth, I have recently had to install a replacement choke plunger.
First thing to check would be teh air box drain, if it isn't sealed dirt goes through the engine ruining compression. You can find out about this on our megacity performance facebook page, click photos/albums/common problems
if thats good likely the cut off valve/fuel tap diaphragm has failed robbing vacuum required by the starting fuel circuit
or plugged starter jet
@@megacityperformance3523 thanks for your reply. I’m not writing as a KLR rider. Interestingly enough, I’m here because my Kawasaki Tr250 (Japanese domestic version of the Kawasaki estrella ) shares a similar carb. Due to the lack of carburettor gurus willing to share detailed information I’ve found myself in the comment section of the KLR hard cores. If I’m not mistaken my cvk32 is rather similar in construction and operation to the cvk40 right? Your tear down tutorials have coached me through disassembly and re kitting with little to zero difference other than the jet sizes. If I were to ask your knowledge on the functionality of the carb alone, what would cause the symptoms explained earlier?
@@calebrarere8504 Low compression comes to mind first, secondly a fouled spark plug
You're making me want to clean my carb. Lucky for you I have to pull my skid plate so I'm not going to do that
lol
Good video but you were not clear on the starter circuit. Can you explain where that Circuit gets its air? I think the air comes in under the diaphragm at the enrichment valve which then pulls fuel up. But where does the fuel come out? I can’t find any good info on this that makes sense. If it’s a separate circuit and I believe it is then where does both the air and fuel come in, mix then exit? The reason I ask is because my bike starts on choke then dies and no amount of adjustment to the lever can keep it running while cold on choke. It eventually runs and idles perfectly. I think it’s getting fuel and no air mixed in when cold.
You're right, the starter circuit pulls air from under the diaphragm. Fuel is drawn from the fixed starter jet and is drawn by the air just mentioned passing the hole in the bottom of the starter plunger bore. Hope that is clear
contact me on Facebook if you want a picture explanation.
@@megacityperformance3523 yes thanks that makes sense. The weird thing is it fires and dies. This is on an 88 klr 250 and someone has done a lot of weird stuff to it so im trying to sort it all out. Thanks
@@jhackett9482 i'd have to hear it, almost sounding like ignition is cutting out
I think i figured it out. Took the carb off and could see the passage ways for the fuel I hadn’t noticed before. Realized that I was using the “choke” to start but my bike is actually running rich enough it doesn’t need much “choke”. I think the aftermarket pipe that’s on it flows a lot more causing a rich condition. I always thought aftermarket pipes cause a lean condition but an article from Kevin Camron (Cycle World) explains how they can run rich.
My 2018 KLR 650 with 7000 miles started having difficulty starting last week, it took a few tries and some pop before the starter works. I installed new spark plug months ago. If I'm running it off and on again everything is perfect. What do you think the problem would be? Thanks
Probably the vacuum fuel tap failing, See facebook.com/photo/?fbid=119980967595673&set=a.119982954262141
@@megacityperformance3523 Thank you very much for the help, I'll take a look at it. You guys are the best
@@carvalhonj You won't see anything by looking at it, only way to diagnose is symptomatically.
there is a disable mod on the ppage posted, and a delete mod. Disable to verify or delete if you want to rule out the very very common failure for ever.
My KLR with a manual petcock will only start if I turn the petcock on and wait for about 20 minutes...any thoughts why? Thanks!
that doesn't make sense to me. A manual tap is ON/OFF/RES. If fuel flows freely in two of the three positions there is a different problem.
@@megacityperformance3523 Yes I agree. I just mentioned the manual petcock as with the stock petcock you normally just leave it "on". I am going to carefully follow your videos and go through the carb slowly. (got to get some gloves! the Permatex carb cleaner burns!) Thanks for your reply
@@Heraclitus188 probably air cut off valve is leaking, when it does it robs vacuum from the choke system. Check my Megacity performance page on how to disable the air cut off.
@@Heraclitus188 Or your choke jet is plugged possibly, its the fix (non removable) jet beside the main.
Do you guys have a video up some where doing an MCP kit install?
not specifically no, but the instructions combined with the videos makes installation a breeze. The instructions are very good.