There is an Externally Adjustable idle air control screw available. After drilling and removing the plug, the screw is replaced with one that is easily accessible with an external Knurled head. At altitude if the idle is rough you just reach under and richen or lean the idle mixture as needed. It can be adjusted literaly in seconds, with absolutely no tools needed. That screw runs about $15 and it was the first thing I did along with the washer under the main jet needle on my brand new 2008 KLR650. 13 Years of miles and Smiles 😃.
Always enjoy your videos, BJ. The music you select always compliments them so much, that I sit here with Shazam on my phone to get the artists! Keep them coming, buddy! 👏👏👏
I own a 99 klr650. lol. Just under 40,000 miles or 59.428 kms. While it would run and ride ok, It had issues getting to 70 mph. Above that was not going to happen. I finally decided to buy a dynojet kit and go into the carb. It has never been off the bike. I owned it since day one. After installing the kit and spraying it with carb cleaner I put it back together. I can finally hit 100 mph again. My carb was actually fairly clean inside. I always ran 94 octane towards the end of the season.
@@BrickHouseBuilds Yeah, If I had not let the bike sit for 8 months, I would never have had to clean the carb. I was getting surging and crapping out above 4,000 RPM. After cleaning everything. Thing runs great again.
Your symptoms sound exactly like what I was experiencing with my '09. I had a lean condition, idle climbing when hot, deceleration popping... turned out the mixture screw a 1/4 turn or so, shimmed the needle, no problem. Glad it word for you!
Nice! I just remove the single screw that holds the throttle assembly on. The choke cable is a pain! I did a K&N filter, DG muffler, and DynoJetted the carb. Quite a bit quicker now, but very LOUD! (I like it that way). 2001 model.
Man, this video would've come in handy a week or two ago. Just had to do this to my klr. Thanks for the upload, I'm sure a lot of people will find it useful.
I think you’re right on the fuel valve, I go with the manual one but you need to remember to shut it off for storage and the vacuum one is good so you don’t worry about not shutting off the fuel and possible leaks. There’s good and bad in everything I guess, thank you for posting and ride safe.
Great video! Make me feel more comfortable tackling this project! Reason I’m cleaning my carb is bike after storage won’t start. Is it necessary to drill out that mixture screw or if I clean everything else should I be ok? I’m not comfortable doing that Thanks again!
Thanks Paul! You may be able to avoid removing the mixture screw but of course I try to always work along the thought of "do it right or do it twice" so it's up to you. A non start issue is likely a clogged pilot jet or even a lack of fuel to the carb in general. I know mine takes a lot of cranking due to the vacuum percock.
Hello ! I found your channel a few weeks ago sand I have been enjoying every video so far. I even looked at CX500 prices around me 😂 looks like it’s my next impulse buy. I have bought a xtz750 last year and I’ve been trying to make it run right, in a few of your videos, you are diagnosing either the pilot circuit or the main jet circuit, by just riding it and I was wondering what clues you are looking for when trying to find the issue/tuning a carb ? Thanks for any advice you might have ! Have a good one
Great question but hard to answer by text. I actually shared a pod filter video on my community tab by motorcycle MD which explains the different parts of throttle tuning. It would be a good place to start
Ok I will go have a look, thanks ! It could be an interesting video idea to « de-tune » a carburettor every way possible (idle, pilot, synchro) and film the resulting effects !
Nice 👍 Always a great watch BJ thanks. Why would someone plug it, making it unusable to dial in in the first place? 🤔 obviously it can preform being plugged, so I'm not understanding. Is that a factory thing?
@Brick House Builds He also provides the air cut off elimination and the fuel tap conversion. I also installed the thermal bypass to even out the engine temp. Also brass choke nut and easy reach mixture screw.
Well it would sound more like a "clunk" or even "knock" at low rpm as I applied throttle. The spark plug actually revealed white deposits which is evidence of knock. Basically pre-ignition from a lean mix that ignites before the engine reaches the correct fire mark meaning the combustion is trying to force the piston down while its trying to come up. Bad scenario.
@@BrickHouseBuilds Got ya! Mine sounds like more of a metallic straining or grunting when I blip the throttle too much at a low rpm. Thanks for the info, that makes sense how you could get a knock from being too lean.
I wish someone would talk about where all the different lines and hoses are supposed to go. Why is this glossed over. I’m far from an experienced mechanic and I have no idea how to correctly put this carb back on my bike since I don’t know where the hoses go or what they do.
Do you have a service manual for your bike? It outlines exactly what everything is. I'll admit maybe some information can get glossed over but it's also assumed that to tackle a carburetor job you are also capable of putting things back where they came from. This is where taking photos before you start is very helpful.
@@BrickHouseBuilds Ultimately I guess I was being dramatic. After some poking around i put the big hose on the big hose connector and the small hose in the small hose connector etc.... the bike started right up. I just dont know how or why lol.
There is an Externally Adjustable idle air control screw available. After drilling and removing the plug, the screw is replaced with one that is easily accessible with an external Knurled head. At altitude if the idle is rough you just reach under and richen or lean the idle mixture as needed. It can be adjusted literaly in seconds, with absolutely no tools needed. That screw runs about $15 and it was the first thing I did along with the washer under the main jet needle on my brand new 2008 KLR650. 13 Years of miles and Smiles 😃.
Im definitely aware but not something I need considering I can easily adjust with a modified bit. I can definitely see the appeal though
Ok, I get it thanks :)
Always enjoy your videos, BJ. The music you select always compliments them so much, that I sit here with Shazam on my phone to get the artists! Keep them coming, buddy! 👏👏👏
I appreciate the feedback on the tunes. Can be really hit and miss
I own a 99 klr650. lol. Just under 40,000 miles or 59.428 kms. While it would run and ride ok, It had issues getting to 70 mph. Above that was not going to happen. I finally decided to buy a dynojet kit and go into the carb. It has never been off the bike. I owned it since day one. After installing the kit and spraying it with carb cleaner I put it back together. I can finally hit 100 mph again. My carb was actually fairly clean inside. I always ran 94 octane towards the end of the season.
Hmm, mine has never had a problem doing 100 in factory form
@@BrickHouseBuilds Yeah, If I had not let the bike sit for 8 months, I would never have had to clean the carb. I was getting surging and crapping out above 4,000 RPM. After cleaning everything. Thing runs great again.
Always enjoy watching your builds you’re a real pro 👍🇬🇧
Much appreciated Mark!
Your symptoms sound exactly like what I was experiencing with my '09. I had a lean condition, idle climbing when hot, deceleration popping... turned out the mixture screw a 1/4 turn or so, shimmed the needle, no problem. Glad it word for you!
It definitely helped a lot
Excellent video! You can use all the good tips and advise on so many different applications, as well. Thank you! Regards from Canada 🇨🇦
I appreciate it Keith!
Nice! I just remove the single screw that holds the throttle assembly on. The choke cable is a pain! I did a K&N filter, DG muffler, and DynoJetted the carb. Quite a bit quicker now, but very LOUD! (I like it that way). 2001 model.
Ya know I hadn't considered just taking that whole bracket off lol
Great video, thanks, 🫵🏼💯🆒
🤘🤘
Man, this video would've come in handy a week or two ago. Just had to do this to my klr.
Thanks for the upload, I'm sure a lot of people will find it useful.
Always a day late and a dollar short! Thank you though I hope other do find it helpful
Great video, man! You make most things seem very do-able and are a very inspiring teacher!
Take it easy dude! 👍
🙏🙏
I think you’re right on the fuel valve, I go with the manual one but you need to remember to shut it off for storage and the vacuum one is good so you don’t worry about not shutting off the fuel and possible leaks. There’s good and bad in everything I guess, thank you for posting and ride safe.
Agreed 100%. Easy to leave them on and leak fuel but again there is good and bad for both.
you're a pro buddy, awesome vid thanks👍
Thanks Tim!
Thanks homie. I'll be doing this in a few weeks when I winterize my bike
Hopefully you find it helpful!
Looks beautiful and new.
Thanks Ken
Nice Rebuild My Friend.👌
Many thanks Ray!
Thank you for the ultrasonic mix ratios! Been running a designated carb detergent and it doesn't agree with the throttle valveshaft o rings
I know everyone has a different mix this is just mine. Seems to do what I need it to!
Great video, very good job👌🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Thank you!
Very nice job, man.
Thank you much!
It looks like a bullfrog in high heels. But I love the thing. You make em I'll watch em
Nice idea with the drill
Simple and effective!
ok 👌👍 super bien
Thank ya
a lot of KLR owners will find this video instructive.
Im hoping so!
Nice job
Nick Australia
Thank you Nick
For my metric fellas, 15.000 miles is roughly 24.140 kilometers and 160 meters
I'm old school. I saw the Beatles in 1964 so I do remember miles. Regards from Canada 🇨🇦!
Excelent
Thank ya!
Great video! Make me feel more comfortable tackling this project! Reason I’m cleaning my carb is bike after storage won’t start. Is it necessary to drill out that mixture screw or if I clean everything else should I be ok? I’m not comfortable doing that
Thanks again!
Thanks Paul! You may be able to avoid removing the mixture screw but of course I try to always work along the thought of "do it right or do it twice" so it's up to you. A non start issue is likely a clogged pilot jet or even a lack of fuel to the carb in general. I know mine takes a lot of cranking due to the vacuum percock.
@@BrickHouseBuilds thank you for the reply!! You are 💯 right!
Again- great video!
Hello !
I found your channel a few weeks ago sand I have been enjoying every video so far.
I even looked at CX500 prices around me 😂 looks like it’s my next impulse buy.
I have bought a xtz750 last year and I’ve been trying to make it run right, in a few of your videos, you are diagnosing either the pilot circuit or the main jet circuit, by just riding it and I was wondering what clues you are looking for when trying to find the issue/tuning a carb ?
Thanks for any advice you might have !
Have a good one
Great question but hard to answer by text. I actually shared a pod filter video on my community tab by motorcycle MD which explains the different parts of throttle tuning. It would be a good place to start
Ok I will go have a look, thanks !
It could be an interesting video idea to « de-tune » a carburettor every way possible (idle, pilot, synchro) and film the resulting effects !
Nice 👍 Always a great watch BJ thanks.
Why would someone plug it, making it unusable to dial in in the first place? 🤔 obviously it can preform being plugged, so I'm not understanding.
Is that a factory thing?
Correct its a factory thing. An EPA mandate so people don't adjust them and affect emissions
Check out MCP for your KLR.
Carburetor magic for these bikes.
I know of them. I just have many parts so I can do most of that stuff
@Brick House Builds He also provides the air cut off elimination and the fuel tap conversion.
I also installed the thermal bypass to even out the engine temp.
Also brass choke nut and easy reach mixture screw.
Good stuff. Mine the rpms go down super slow when revved, it seemed like yours was kinda doing that, is that a klr thing?
I guess I haven't felt like this drops slowly.
What do you mean by spark knock? My DR might be doing something similar. What does it sound like?
Well it would sound more like a "clunk" or even "knock" at low rpm as I applied throttle. The spark plug actually revealed white deposits which is evidence of knock. Basically pre-ignition from a lean mix that ignites before the engine reaches the correct fire mark meaning the combustion is trying to force the piston down while its trying to come up. Bad scenario.
@@BrickHouseBuilds Got ya! Mine sounds like more of a metallic straining or grunting when I blip the throttle too much at a low rpm. Thanks for the info, that makes sense how you could get a knock from being too lean.
What brand and what size ultrasonic cleaner do you use for your carburetor cleaning?
I have it linked in my Amazon Storefront actually
@@BrickHouseBuilds thank you very much. Keep the great videos and content coming. I thoroughly enjoy them.
@@BrickHouseBuilds thank you very much. Keep the great videos and content coming. I thoroughly enjoy them.
@@louieuribe3343 thank you!
What are the measurements of the shim under the needle?
That I don't know actually. It's been a long time since i've done this so I can't recall
I wish someone would talk about where all the different lines and hoses are supposed to go. Why is this glossed over. I’m far from an experienced mechanic and I have no idea how to correctly put this carb back on my bike since I don’t know where the hoses go or what they do.
Do you have a service manual for your bike? It outlines exactly what everything is. I'll admit maybe some information can get glossed over but it's also assumed that to tackle a carburetor job you are also capable of putting things back where they came from. This is where taking photos before you start is very helpful.
@@BrickHouseBuilds Ultimately I guess I was being dramatic. After some poking around i put the big hose on the big hose connector and the small hose in the small hose connector etc.... the bike started right up. I just dont know how or why lol.
Didn't check flaot height?
I may not have. There was no reason to suspect the height to be incorrect