I do not know if you still are able to do the in depth carb rebuild but I would love it. I just bought a small boat and was given this engine for free to see if I could fix it, your videos give me hope. I will be taking it apart soon, thank you so much for the highly detailed video, it is a hidden wonder of RUclips that is for sure.
Hey, that was fun. It brought memories back of a turquoise 10 hp Scott-Atwater I used to run as a kid in the mid 60's. An uncle was a dealer for a few years so I got to try every motor in the line-up. My favorites were the Flying Scotts which made a very distinctive sound wnen run at WOT. Regards !
That is a great story, must have been fun to test out all the new motors and new options. The craziest feature I have seen is the built in bilge pump on some of the Scott Atwater motors. Thank you for watching and adding your own experiences, I really appreciate that.
@@partscannongarage Yeah, the Bail-O-Matic feature. The sucking end was a cast aluminum part the size of your PC mouse with openings at the bottom. You would just let it lay flat in your boats floor and it would get any water that leaked-in, splashed-in or rained-in. The rapid demise of the always leaking wooden hull boats in favour of the aluminum and fibreglass hulls sealed the faith of that useful device.
Nice work! Geez that was a lot of work to get to that carb. I’m impressed you were able to track down that broken reed. Look forward to the next installment when it is all dialed in with fuel source!
it is a strange design to assume you won’t need to get at the carb often… I found some original instructions on how to tune that carb but it is supposed to be under load at wide open throttle for a few of the steps so will need the boat or a much bigger barrel lol! thank you for commenting and for watching and let me know if you have any ideas for new content or weird things I can try with all these outboards
@@partscannongarage I suppose you should sell them when complete. Keep one or two for the john boat you spoke of. Will you keep on working on outboards on this channel or move around to various small engines? See you just posted a moldy magoo update...will watch!
Yeah, I plan to sell most of them once the weather in New England warms up. I was even thinking of giving one of the smaller lighter ones away to a subscriber if I can figure out how to ship it. I think I will work on outboards but also a variety of random things from boats to cars to drones to robotics, etc. I bit off way more than I can chew with The Outboard Motor Experiment but it is fun to work on all these different designs. I really appreciate the comments, I think that is the best part, knowing there are real people watching these hahah.
My Esperance has been when you get spark to the spark plug but knot throught the plug it is the condencor not making a good ground at the points very easy fix
One thing I like to do is take wires off points clean then use ohm meter between points and engine then check connection through contacts before putting flywheel back on love getting old engines running han 1959 Johnson 18 I need to get running
hey thanks for joining, I really do need to get the multimeter out, I have watched a few videos of people testing various paths and it would be awesome to be able to be sure before putting thing back together, if you put that 1959 Johnson on RUclips let us know, would love to see it
Did you adjust the points gap and lube the cam while you had the flywheel off That and the proper spark plug gap makes a huge difference in how a motor starts and idles. Point gap also affects ignition timing.
No sir, I did not adjust any gaps because I couldn’t find my gap gauge so I ordered one… I was planning to gap the points when I have to go back and torque everything correctly, namely the flywheel. I forgot about gapping the plug so thanks for the reminder. Any thoughts on what I should use to lube the cam?
if it has a felt wick, then a drop or two of light oil, like 3-in-1 or sewing machine oil. If there isn't one, then a tiny bit of chassis or white grease on the cam. You don't want so much that it flings off and gets on the contacts. An old mechanic taught me to use the cardboard from a canadian cigarette pack as a feeler gauge to set points on an old skidoo . He also had a method for setting timing using cigarette paper
I do not know if you still are able to do the in depth carb rebuild but I would love it. I just bought a small boat and was given this engine for free to see if I could fix it, your videos give me hope. I will be taking it apart soon, thank you so much for the highly detailed video, it is a hidden wonder of RUclips that is for sure.
awsome channel you should be very popular
thank you gerard, I love all your comments, keep’em coming, I read them all and really appreciate it
Hey, that was fun. It brought memories back of a turquoise 10 hp Scott-Atwater I used to run as a kid in the mid 60's. An uncle was a dealer for a few years so I got to try every motor in the line-up. My favorites were the Flying Scotts which made a very distinctive sound wnen run at WOT. Regards !
That is a great story, must have been fun to test out all the new motors and new options. The craziest feature I have seen is the built in bilge pump on some of the Scott Atwater motors. Thank you for watching and adding your own experiences, I really appreciate that.
@@partscannongarage Yeah, the Bail-O-Matic feature. The sucking end was a cast aluminum part the size of your PC mouse with openings at the bottom. You would just let it lay flat in your boats floor and it would get any water that leaked-in, splashed-in or rained-in. The rapid demise of the always leaking wooden hull boats in favour of the aluminum and fibreglass hulls sealed the faith of that useful device.
wow, that is just so cool, I need to get my hands on that aluminum sump pickup
just found your channel great video
welcome to the channel, thank you for the comment and thank you for watching
Nice work! Geez that was a lot of work to get to that carb. I’m impressed you were able to track down that broken reed. Look forward to the next installment when it is all dialed in with fuel source!
it is a strange design to assume you won’t need to get at the carb often… I found some original instructions on how to tune that carb but it is supposed to be under load at wide open throttle for a few of the steps so will need the boat or a much bigger barrel lol! thank you for commenting and for watching and let me know if you have any ideas for new content or weird things I can try with all these outboards
@@partscannongarage I suppose you should sell them when complete. Keep one or two for the john boat you spoke of. Will you keep on working on outboards on this channel or move around to various small engines? See you just posted a moldy magoo update...will watch!
Yeah, I plan to sell most of them once the weather in New England warms up. I was even thinking of giving one of the smaller lighter ones away to a subscriber if I can figure out how to ship it. I think I will work on outboards but also a variety of random things from boats to cars to drones to robotics, etc. I bit off way more than I can chew with The Outboard Motor Experiment but it is fun to work on all these different designs. I really appreciate the comments, I think that is the best part,
knowing there are real people watching these hahah.
I think the reason why you didn’t have compression is the bad reed valve.
My Esperance has been when you get spark to the spark plug but knot throught the plug it is the condencor not making a good ground at the points very easy fix
Very interesting, thanks for the tip man, I will definitely add that to my bag of tricks! Thank you for watching and adding the valuable comments
One thing I like to do is take wires off points clean then use ohm meter between points and engine then check connection through contacts before putting flywheel back on love getting old engines running han 1959 Johnson 18 I need to get running
hey thanks for joining, I really do need to get the multimeter out, I have watched a few videos of people testing various paths and it would be awesome to be able to be sure before putting thing back together, if you put that 1959 Johnson on RUclips let us know, would love to see it
LOL, I hate these this carbs! Loving the vids, well done.
hahaha, I really do hate those carbs! thank you for watching, really appreciate the comments too
Can you drop a link to where you got the carb rebuild kit? Great video!
Did you adjust the points gap and lube the cam while you had the flywheel off That and the proper spark plug gap makes a huge difference in how a motor starts and idles.
Point gap also affects ignition timing.
No sir, I did not adjust any gaps because I couldn’t find my gap gauge so I ordered one… I was planning to gap the points when I have to go back and torque everything correctly, namely the flywheel. I forgot about gapping the plug so thanks for the reminder. Any thoughts on what I should use to lube the cam?
if it has a felt wick, then a drop or two of light oil, like 3-in-1 or sewing machine oil. If there isn't one, then a tiny bit of chassis or white grease on the cam. You don't want so much that it flings off and gets on the contacts.
An old mechanic taught me to use the cardboard from a canadian cigarette pack as a feeler gauge to set points on an old skidoo . He also had a method for setting timing using cigarette paper
ok super, it does have a felt wick and believe it or not I have a bottle of 3 in 1 oil sitting right here, thank you!
@@partscannongarage
How did you adust the fuel float and how does the spring fit in.
Where did you get the rebuild kit for the carb