As a 75 year old musician , I have a ex stable block converted ! into a recording studio with stage ! and of course I ve aquired , a lot of equipment , going back to the 1950s , one of my big bug bearers , is noisey , electrics , THEN I FOUND YOUR VIDEO ! MAGIC ! and you explained every thing , in detail ! Thankyou so much ! and the very best wishes for 2025 ! ritchie . Colombier Recording And Production ( C.R.A.P. ) I think I will have to change our name , after watching your video !. Le Mans France .
Awesome x awesome video. And you are so right, there are different cleaners/lubricates for different purposes. When I used, not knowing, contact cleaner, on my studio mixer sliders, they sound like scratchy noise, and it got worse as time went on. But using the Deoxit Fader F5, what a difference no more scratchy noises and I think the sound quality is better. Oh, here is a tip. If you miss and spray the Fader F5 on your mixer or any other gear it leaves a little residue. So just spray a little Fader F5 on a rag and you can wipe it away.
Hello Friend, I just wanted to let you know that I found your channel just a few days ago and watched your video about the restoration of your Marantz receiver. I just wanted you to know how much I appreciate the information you shared. I learned quite a few things from your instructions that I did not know, which will help me a lot with restoring, and repairing my own equipment. You have several more videos that I am definitely going to check out. I used to watch Blueglow electronics because he would work on vintage solid state stereo equipment, but he started working on tube equipment and I stopped watching his channel. Then I found xraytonyb and I have learned some things from him as well. Unfortunately, he gets pretty technical with the schematics and I have trouble understanding him. I really do appreciate the fact that you explain things in a much more simple way and I fully understand you. I really hope you will continue sharing your knowledge of stereo repair here on your channel. I also hope you will continue to find vintage stereo equipment in need of repair, so you will be able to share the process you go through to troubleshoot and repair, whatever problems you run into. I have subscribed to your channel and look forward to seeing all your future videos about vintage stereo repair. Thanks again, and eep up the good work!
Hello, I am a long time watcher and first time to leave a comment. I am by no means anything close to being an expert on working on electronics. When I wanted to make my first Deoxit purchase I was confused as to what to buy. I called customer service at Deoxit and they told me that D5 should not be used on vintage equipment because of the solvents can be damaging (according to them) They asked me how old was the item that I was working on. I told them it was a Yamaha receiver from 1980. They recommended that I use d100 and not d5. I am not 100 % sure on this part but I think that they said that the contacts on the boards and components are not always gold plated on vintage equipment and that is why the solvents can be damaging. I just wanted to mention that. Again, I am only a novice, so if I am wrong nobody jump all over me but I would like to be corrected. Thanks. Doug
I would think if it's strictly potentiometers it would be fine. But anything else, like you said, may not be gold plated and the solvents may break them down. Vintage stuff is like a while other world as far as manufacturing techniques and materials go.
The Gold works very well on audio connectors. I also had several radio broadcast mix consoles that had on/off lamps for each channel and the bulbs didn't fit very tightly so would often go out just from poor contact. The Red didn't do a thing for them but the gold seemed to enhance the contact and kept the lights on.
Don't know if anyone posted this but I use small plastic bottles with a long needle applicator to apply Deoxit as well as solder Flux. It works great for getting into those tight spots.
The needle dispenser from the D100L bottle is absolutely huge. I may try to find a much smaller one as it would allow me to more easily control the amount I apply. In the past, I bought some dispenser bottles, with tiny diameter needle dispensers from a place that cuts, sells and fabricates plastics. I would imagine they're easily found on Amazon and elsewhere. The downside of these small diameter dispensers is that they are easily bent and also that if the liquid dries in them, they're a pain to unplug. I have liquid flux in one bottle and so far I've been able to run a hot solder iron along the metal tube to liquify the hardened flux.
so my head shaver developed corrosion at its base (after 2.5 years of use) and stopped charging. Was about to buy new latest n greatest version, but came across this Deoxit contact cleaner while searching online. Was confused as there are many contact cleaners on the market, even the WD40 version. But none apart from the Deoxit stated that it "dissolves corrosion." So decided to give it a shot. Sprayed the base charger and its cable, and played with inserting/removal of cable onto base. Let it dry out for couple of hours. Wired it up, and hooohah the base started charging again.
Appreciate the clarification 👍 The Doxit cans are a serious graphic design fail. They've crammed SO MUCH text into a small space that it's really hard to find the important info.
I actually don't use any Deoxit products. I'm not saying you shouldn't use Deoxit. I use CRC QD electronic cleaner and CRC 2-26 lubricant. Works pretty well for me.
Thanks for this video. I bought spray cans of F5 and D5, and a tiny tube of 100% Deoxit to clean up my Marantz 2250B. The F5 Did not work on the volume pot, but the 100% liquid work perfectly.
I was told a long time ago by an older tech that you should actuate the switch/button/slider 50 times fully for each one. That's 50 times in each position. So far that policy has worked for me like 90% of the time; every so often there's a really dirty switch that needs more attention
Tony never provided any evidence for his claims, but everybody repeats them now. Deoxit FaderGrease is an important product to increase the physical resistance in the fader type controls. Nobody really talks about it though as you have to disassemble faders to apply it.
Hopefully it will be 15 to 20 years from now that it worked but if its only less than 5 years it failed so we all have to wait and see. At lest we have a system that hopefully Works better.
Good video. Sorts out some of the confusion. Which, if any DeOxit products contains a lubricant? Or is a lubricant necessary on carbon film type potentiometer controls? Thank you.
Caught your video on cleaning the controls of a Pioneer SX-1280 where you say that you have information on a paper (showing that paper) that CAIG says to use D100 on potentiometers, yet in this offering you state the F-series is for potentiometers. Could you explain this please?
After using it for a few years now, both d5 and f5 , I have concluded that using the least amount possible to complete the task is key. F5 results on any sliders was nowhere near as good as I expected as it flushes the old damping grease the feel becomes rough and unpleasant. It is good on potentiometers. F5 fader lube is a bit of an after thought and depending on how many bands you have in your eq is not a viable option.
Can excess electronic cleaner damage pots and switches.? I tried spraying the volume pot, balance pot and loudness switch on my Amp which was crackling however I am now left with more interference and a loudness switch that takes the volume to max intermittently. Any solutions?. Thank you
I'm in the middle of recapping a 2215b power supply. Do you have a good idea for a solvent to dissolve the ridiculous amount of glue they put on the caps? It's proving nearly impossible to deal with. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I used this f5 on my eq. It ruined the feel of the fader. I had to put new grease in them after using deoxit f5 fader cleaner. If you use f5 on a eq fader, know it will still need fader grease afterwards! F5 is NOT a one and done product. I made a video on how f5 ruined my 2 yamaha ge30s. I fixed them with new fader grease but that's another $25. So it cost $50 for me to clean my faders on my vintage equalizer. I wish I never used it.
Stuart ukguitarampguy repairs old tube amps in the UK. He shut the myth down about using D5 in pots. He made the video two months ago I believe. It’s worth a watch!
I think Deoxit is ridiculously over priced and over rated. I have begun using WD-40 Specialist Contact Cleaner. You can get an 11 oz can off Amazon for $8.00. Dries immediately, no residue. Works extremely well. Safe on everything. I have ruined faders with Fader lube. You ruin a fader switch, you're screwed. I still use D5 for switches, but very sparingly. Every time I press that nozzle button, I'm thinking "that just cost a buck." I repaired industrial and large scale computer equipment with backplanes in my career. That's what deoxit was designed for. Multi-pin back plane sockets. The repair pundits extolled the virtues of Deoxit and received free samples. There are a lot of better cleaners, and cheaper. CRC is very good also, and 1/3 the price.
I first found WD-40 Specialist Contact Cleaner at Walmart when it first came out. Now I can't find it. CRC QD contact cleaner is much easier to find even at auto supply stores !
Really...? Well, if you like the smell of coconut oil go ahead & use your can of WD-40 on your stereo equipment. Yet, I'd advise against you using it on any of your electronic gear my friend. IDK who told you it's OK & safe to use on "potentiometers," but it's not! It may be a quick fix to solve your problems but it's not the right solution by far. You're just asking for more problems using WD-40 & soon enough you're gonna end up causing even more problems to fix or ruin your equipment altogether. Which will end up being much more costly then to drop a few extra dollars now to get the right stuff to use in the first place. Trust me when I tell ya, I promise you that, what reason do I have to lie to you. But learn the hard way if that's what you want & do your thing, it's all good. Just saying... 🤔 +Peace & Rock n' Roll 4 Your Soul My Friend+ 🤘😉🤘
@@216Numbskull YES REALLY YES. In think in this country we have so many products available that we waste our time ridiculous minutia and unimportant details. I have a cousin who is an electrical engineer and have been doing that all of his life in another country and there is no problem whatsoever. and yes they are fixed for life.
@@latengocomoburro Okey-dokey, if you say so go right ahead & you do you, it's all good. But don't whine later when a bigger problem occurs than you originally had in the first place, that's all. You maybe lucky right now but don't expect it to last by thinking it's alright to use WD-40 on potentiometers. It's not rocket science, it's just plain common sense that it isn't advisable to use WD-40 on those type of electronic parts. If you think I'm FOS, please look for yourself or go ask any electrician, electrical engineer, etc... who has real knowledge in the trade. I promise, they'll tell you the same thing, no bout a doubt it my friend. Just saying... ✌️😉
I just use WD40. Ha ha! It works! As for that also too expensive flux remover spray? I got a small pancake air compressor in my shop - so i got a milwaukee sprayer and a 5 gallon can of Perchloroethylene and a 5 gallon can of N-Hexane. Works WONDERS! Only the old freon vapor recovery bath did better. You know that process that the state of commufornia got raysiss against?
Arthur the audio anoraks wud pay 100gbp if the magazines/influences said it removed muddyness from the sound. They would pay.... 1000gbp.fuses r 5000gbp lol.
As a 75 year old musician , I have a ex stable block converted ! into a recording studio with stage ! and of course I ve aquired , a lot of equipment , going back to the 1950s , one of my big bug bearers , is noisey , electrics , THEN
I FOUND YOUR VIDEO ! MAGIC ! and you explained every thing , in detail !
Thankyou so much ! and the very best wishes for 2025 !
ritchie .
Colombier Recording And Production ( C.R.A.P. ) I think I will have to change our name , after watching your video !.
Le Mans
France .
It's used in electronic shops, my can lasted years. Loved it on connectors, controls, etc.
Most honest, genuine, to the point, video. THank you.
Awesome x awesome video. And you are so right, there are different cleaners/lubricates for different purposes. When I used, not knowing, contact cleaner, on my studio mixer sliders, they sound like scratchy noise, and it got worse as time went on. But using the Deoxit Fader F5, what a difference no more scratchy noises and I think the sound quality is better.
Oh, here is a tip. If you miss and spray the Fader F5 on your mixer or any other gear it leaves a little residue. So just spray a little Fader F5 on a rag and you can wipe it away.
Hello Friend, I just wanted to let you know that I found your channel just a few days ago and watched your video about the restoration of your Marantz receiver. I just wanted you to know how much I appreciate the information you shared. I learned quite a few things from your instructions that I did not know, which will help me a lot with restoring, and repairing my own equipment. You have several more videos that I am definitely going to check out. I used to watch Blueglow electronics because he would work on vintage solid state stereo equipment, but he started working on tube equipment and I stopped watching his channel. Then I found xraytonyb and I have learned some things from him as well. Unfortunately, he gets pretty technical with the schematics and I have trouble understanding him. I really do appreciate the fact that you explain things in a much more simple way and I fully understand you. I really hope you will continue sharing your knowledge of stereo repair here on your channel. I also hope you will continue to find vintage stereo equipment in need of repair, so you will be able to share the process you go through to troubleshoot and repair, whatever problems you run into. I have subscribed to your channel and look forward to seeing all your future videos about vintage stereo repair. Thanks again, and eep up the good work!
Hello, I am a long time watcher and first time to leave a comment. I am by no means anything close to being an expert on working on electronics. When I wanted to make my first Deoxit purchase I was confused as to what to buy. I called customer service at Deoxit and they told me that D5 should not be used on vintage equipment because of the solvents can be damaging (according to them) They asked me how old was the item that I was working on. I told them it was a Yamaha receiver from 1980. They recommended that I use d100 and not d5. I am not 100 % sure on this part but I think that they said that the contacts on the boards and components are not always gold plated on vintage equipment and that is why the solvents can be damaging. I just wanted to mention that. Again, I am only a novice, so if I am wrong nobody jump all over me but I would like to be corrected. Thanks.
Doug
I would think if it's strictly potentiometers it would be fine. But anything else, like you said, may not be gold plated and the solvents may break them down. Vintage stuff is like a while other world as far as manufacturing techniques and materials go.
So use the D5 first & then as a bonus vou can use D100!
Does Ace Hardware carry Deoxit D5 & D100? Pls note: For carbon potentiometers use Dexoit F series!
Thanks! I've been waiting for someone to make a clear and brief video on this topic
The Gold works very well on audio connectors. I also had several radio broadcast mix consoles that had on/off lamps for each channel and the bulbs didn't fit very tightly so would often go out just from poor contact. The Red didn't do a thing for them but the gold seemed to enhance the contact and kept the lights on.
Thanks bud! Appreciate the info you spoke about in the video. D5 is for me!
Much appreciated, I was confused as to which one to buy, and eventually bought D5.
Don't know if anyone posted this but I use small plastic bottles with a long needle applicator to apply Deoxit as well as solder Flux. It works great for getting into those tight spots.
The needle dispenser from the D100L bottle is absolutely huge. I may try to find a much smaller one as it would allow me to more easily control the amount I apply. In the past, I bought some dispenser bottles, with tiny diameter needle dispensers from a place that cuts, sells and fabricates plastics. I would imagine they're easily found on Amazon and elsewhere. The downside of these small diameter dispensers is that they are easily bent and also that if the liquid dries in them, they're a pain to unplug. I have liquid flux in one bottle and so far I've been able to run a hot solder iron along the metal tube to liquify the hardened flux.
@@gregpeyton2754 lol I do the same thing to unclog mine.
so my head shaver developed corrosion at its base (after 2.5 years of use) and stopped charging. Was about to buy new latest n greatest version, but came across this Deoxit contact cleaner while searching online. Was confused as there are many contact cleaners on the market, even the WD40 version. But none apart from the Deoxit stated that it "dissolves corrosion." So decided to give it a shot. Sprayed the base charger and its cable, and played with inserting/removal of cable onto base. Let it dry out for couple of hours. Wired it up, and hooohah the base started charging again.
Appreciate the clarification 👍 The Doxit cans are a serious graphic design fail. They've crammed SO MUCH text into a small space that it's really hard to find the important info.
I actually don't use any Deoxit products. I'm not saying you shouldn't use Deoxit. I use CRC QD electronic cleaner and CRC 2-26 lubricant. Works pretty well for me.
I use the cheaper CRC QD Electronic Cleaner first (safe for plastic) than use Deoxit to save money.
Yes but those don’t address a long term problem, oxidation of contacts.
Thanks for this video. I bought spray cans of F5 and D5, and a tiny tube of 100% Deoxit to clean up my Marantz 2250B. The F5 Did not work on the volume pot, but the 100% liquid work perfectly.
I was told a long time ago by an older tech that you should actuate the switch/button/slider 50 times fully for each one. That's 50 times in each position. So far that policy has worked for me like 90% of the time; every so often there's a really dirty switch that needs more attention
I liked this video. To the point with decent demonstration. I’m going to apply your knowledge to my Sherwood s7300 Receiver.. soon. Thank you.
Hello. How do you know if there is carbon in the pots?
Tony never provided any evidence for his claims, but everybody repeats them now. Deoxit FaderGrease is an important product to increase the physical resistance in the fader type controls. Nobody really talks about it though as you have to disassemble faders to apply it.
Hopefully it will be 15 to 20 years from now that it worked but if its only less than 5 years it failed so we all have to wait and see. At lest we have a system that hopefully Works better.
Good video. Sorts out some of the confusion. Which, if any DeOxit products contains a lubricant? Or is a lubricant necessary on carbon film type potentiometer controls? Thank you.
Thank you for making this video! This information should not be so hard to find!
Thank you for doing this.
How about just straight contact cleaner?
So would the f5 be better for a technics 1200 pitch control or a volume slider on a Dj mixer ?
Good stuff. Merry Christmas Aiden to you and the family.
Nice sign Aidan- helpful information. Thanks
Caught your video on cleaning the controls of a Pioneer SX-1280 where you say that you have information on a paper (showing that paper) that CAIG says to use D100 on potentiometers, yet in this offering you state the F-series is for potentiometers. Could you explain this please?
I remember back in the day there was two types of Deoxit Plain and Gold. Now my head hurts.
Thanks a lot! this is very useful to know for future repairs I will encounter.
After using it for a few years now, both d5 and f5 , I have concluded that using the least amount possible to complete the task is key. F5 results on any sliders was nowhere near as good as I expected as it flushes the old damping grease the feel becomes rough and unpleasant. It is good on potentiometers. F5 fader lube is a bit of an after thought and depending on how many bands you have in your eq is not a viable option.
Can excess electronic cleaner damage pots and switches.? I tried spraying the volume pot, balance pot and loudness switch on my Amp which was crackling however I am now left with more interference and a loudness switch that takes the volume to max intermittently. Any solutions?. Thank you
Great video it cleared it all up for me now I know what's what thank you
Can you use the D5 to clean Cassette deck playing heads?
The tape monitor button is a problem for me on a 2238b. How do you get access to clean and what product do you use?
This goes a long way to explaining some of my mixed results with deoxit... I've mostly used D5 over the years, with okay to excellent results.
Excellent video! Definitely will save me a lot of time. 👍
Perfect timing. Thank you!
Good job! DeoxIT is a must. 👍👍 Thanks.
Very helpful, thanks!
I'm in the middle of recapping a 2215b power supply. Do you have a good idea for a solvent to dissolve the ridiculous amount of glue they put on the caps?
It's proving nearly impossible to deal with. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Acetone or heat gun
@@AHFixIt thanks
stuff i use on pots is crc 3-36 ..an it last try it
Excellent. Thank you
Good info to know. Thanks.
The G100L is an excellent contact enhancer - try it flashlight batteries… amazing.
And audio speaker, interconnect cables is great.
Are any of these DeOxITs conductive?
I used this f5 on my eq. It ruined the feel of the fader. I had to put new grease in them after using deoxit f5 fader cleaner. If you use f5 on a eq fader, know it will still need fader grease afterwards! F5 is NOT a one and done product. I made a video on how f5 ruined my 2 yamaha ge30s. I fixed them with new fader grease but that's another $25. So it cost $50 for me to clean my faders on my vintage equalizer. I wish I never used it.
What do you suggest for cleaning an EQ? I have a Pioneer SG-9500
Can you recommend a fader lube/grease?
Stuart ukguitarampguy repairs old tube amps in the UK. He shut the myth down about using D5 in pots. He made the video two months ago I believe. It’s worth a watch!
So who's right here? Stuart/Craig OR AH-Fix-it/XrayTonyB? So confusing...
Try CG53A instead of deoxite
So, from what it looks like to me is F5 will work on everything safely.
I think Deoxit is ridiculously over priced and over rated. I have begun using WD-40 Specialist Contact Cleaner. You can get an 11 oz can off Amazon for $8.00. Dries immediately, no residue. Works extremely well. Safe on everything.
I have ruined faders with Fader lube. You ruin a fader switch, you're screwed.
I still use D5 for switches, but very sparingly. Every time I press that nozzle button, I'm thinking "that just cost a buck."
I repaired industrial and large scale computer equipment with backplanes in my career. That's what deoxit was designed for. Multi-pin
back plane sockets. The repair pundits extolled the virtues of Deoxit and received free samples. There are a lot of better cleaners, and cheaper. CRC is very good also, and 1/3 the price.
I first found WD-40 Specialist Contact Cleaner at Walmart when it first came out. Now I can't find it. CRC QD
contact cleaner is much easier to find even at auto supply stores !
DeOxit and have to clean again in 6 moths
Bro on potentiometers you can use anything, WD40 or even 3 in 1 would do... for life!
Really...? Well, if you like the smell of coconut oil go ahead & use your can of WD-40 on your stereo equipment. Yet, I'd advise against you using it on any of your electronic gear my friend. IDK who told you it's OK & safe to use on "potentiometers," but it's not! It may be a quick fix to solve your problems but it's not the right solution by far. You're just asking for more problems using WD-40 & soon enough you're gonna end up causing even more problems to fix or ruin your equipment altogether. Which will end up being much more costly then to drop a few extra dollars now to get the right stuff to use in the first place. Trust me when I tell ya, I promise you that, what reason do I have to lie to you. But learn the hard way if that's what you want & do your thing, it's all good. Just saying... 🤔 +Peace & Rock n' Roll 4 Your Soul My Friend+ 🤘😉🤘
@@216Numbskull YES REALLY YES. In think in this country we have so many products available that we waste our time ridiculous minutia and unimportant details. I have a cousin who is an electrical engineer and have been doing that all of his life in another country and there is no problem whatsoever. and yes they are fixed for life.
@@latengocomoburro Okey-dokey, if you say so go right ahead & you do you, it's all good. But don't whine later when a bigger problem occurs than you originally had in the first place, that's all. You maybe lucky right now but don't expect it to last by thinking it's alright to use WD-40 on potentiometers. It's not rocket science, it's just plain common sense that it isn't advisable to use WD-40 on those type of electronic parts. If you think I'm FOS, please look for yourself or go ask any electrician, electrical engineer, etc... who has real knowledge in the trade. I promise, they'll tell you the same thing, no bout a doubt it my friend. Just saying... ✌️😉
@@216Numbskull If you want to pay $30 for a can of Deoxit go right ahead. I have never seen a potentiometer ruined by any type of oil.
WD-40 is a water/moisture displacer only.... It's NOT a lubricant, it's Not a corrosion inhibitor.
This is your product available in Iraq 100 D
Too expensive for what it does. I won’t buy it again.
I just use WD40. Ha ha! It works! As for that also too expensive flux remover spray? I got a small pancake air compressor in my shop - so i got a milwaukee sprayer and a 5 gallon can of Perchloroethylene and a 5 gallon can of N-Hexane. Works WONDERS! Only the old freon vapor recovery bath did better. You know that process that the state of commufornia got raysiss against?
Overpriced, overhyped, overused. And has newbies who watch RUclips thinking it’s instant restoration in a can.
100%
Arthur the audio anoraks wud pay 100gbp if the magazines/influences said it removed muddyness from the sound. They would pay.... 1000gbp.fuses r 5000gbp lol.
@@matthewtaylor7355 English?
What do you recommend?
@@chickenfoundation9323 Google is your friend.
I used the d5 on my potentiometers and there fine they loosened up and no more static with my 5150 which amplified is very scary or loud !
Love your channel. This s*it is RIDICULOUSLY expensive. Not saying it's not worth it.
Yeah. Thats why im using cheaper stuff in Europe, like Contact Pr which cost around 4 USD
This is your product available in Iraq 100 D