To make this a much easier job buy a swivel socket, Craftsman makes them, for those hub to knuckle bolts. Your approach, and many others, of using swivels and small extensions ends up rounding off bolts, or as you did, pounding on sockets. I can tell you're a frugal guy by just buying the sensor ring instead of the whole assembly, do you want to buy new bolts too. OEM replacements aren't cheap. Another easier method is to separate the tie rod end from the knuckle and swing out the hub assembly for greater clearance. Please, always advise others to look up torque values for suspension part reassembly if you don't supply them. People with varying mechanical ability, some not as good as yours, will follow this video and could be harmed by a lack of details. FYI the dust shields are discontinued by GM, good luck to anyone searching for them, and yes, they are necessary as without them the rotor will contact the caliper.
This just happened to me. Changed the right sensor fine. The left not so lucky. I'm going to have buy the whole assembly now but it's annoying $40 for the sensor and hours work. Once to install and once to take off clean it real well and try it again.
Finally got done doing my dads 2005 Colorado 4wd z71 wheel bearing hub with abs speed sensors... Hate those 4 rear hub to knockle bolts... Ended up stripping the bottom one and had to pretty much take of the whole upper and lower BJ's off. Was able to remove it by forcing a 14mm on it and impacting it off... Need a replacement but itll do for now. I just moved it where i can access it easier when that time comes.
i found with specially 4x4 canyon colorado worse design ever with those inside bolt on rotors .Other thing is if your toner ring is damaged you have to buy the entire hub in that case buy the hub with abs sensore installed. not a vehical you want to be taking apart again over 25 bucks.The best way to remove hub/rotor is a flat bar and 2 bolts through the rotor mounting bolt holes tighten bolts and it pushes hub out no pounding . and a 1/2 " or 15 mm 6 point flex socket for bolt above bottom ball joint other wise remove top ball joint and lean out spindle..
Yes, I did another video that had all the part numbers in it here ruclips.net/video/oOwxkKw35yU/видео.html and here are the parts I used. The bolts, McMaster-Carr 93474A233 www.mcmaster.com/93474A233/ Wheel/Hub Bearing, Timken Bearing RWD; Z85 LS Left HA590058 Right HA590062
Usually the ABS does a self check as soon as the key is turned on, but if it doesn't clear then you have to use a scan tool that has ABS capability to clear.
Yep you are right, at the end of the video I said the light came back on about a 1/4 mile down the road. The reluctor ring must be rusted up or damaged. Oh well, I'll replace it when I get time. Thanks for watching!
Very helpful video. I just replaced the left front sensor on my son's 2005 GMC Canyon.
Hi Sab. Thank you for taking the time to make this video much appreciated
To make this a much easier job buy a swivel socket, Craftsman makes them, for those hub to knuckle bolts. Your approach, and many others, of using swivels and small extensions ends up rounding off bolts, or as you did, pounding on sockets. I can tell you're a frugal guy by just buying the sensor ring instead of the whole assembly, do you want to buy new bolts too. OEM replacements aren't cheap. Another easier method is to separate the tie rod end from the knuckle and swing out the hub assembly for greater clearance. Please, always advise others to look up torque values for suspension part reassembly if you don't supply them. People with varying mechanical ability, some not as good as yours, will follow this video and could be harmed by a lack of details. FYI the dust shields are discontinued by GM, good luck to anyone searching for them, and yes, they are necessary as without them the rotor will contact the caliper.
This just happened to me. Changed the right sensor fine. The left not so lucky. I'm going to have buy the whole assembly now but it's annoying $40 for the sensor and hours work. Once to install and once to take off clean it real well and try it again.
Bummer... I feel your pain!! The drivers side went bad later on and I just replaced the entire hub assy. this time. Good luck!!
I just replaced the whole thing and it's still doing it. I'm pissed
@@joshuabrown4652 That sucks, Sorry to hear.... Let me know what you find.
Finally got done doing my dads 2005 Colorado 4wd z71 wheel bearing hub with abs speed sensors... Hate those 4 rear hub to knockle bolts... Ended up stripping the bottom one and had to pretty much take of the whole upper and lower BJ's off. Was able to remove it by forcing a 14mm on it and impacting it off... Need a replacement but itll do for now. I just moved it where i can access it easier when that time comes.
i found with specially 4x4 canyon colorado worse design ever with those inside bolt on rotors .Other thing is if your toner ring is damaged you have to buy the entire hub in that case buy the hub with abs sensore installed. not a vehical you want to be taking apart again over 25 bucks.The best way to remove hub/rotor is a flat bar and 2 bolts through the rotor mounting bolt holes tighten bolts and it pushes hub out no pounding . and a 1/2 " or 15 mm 6 point flex socket for bolt above bottom ball joint other wise remove top ball joint and lean out spindle..
The same happened to me 😅
Bummer, Live and learn. 😉
Do you have the four bolts hub to spindle part number?
Yes, I did another video that had all the part numbers in it here ruclips.net/video/oOwxkKw35yU/видео.html
and here are the parts I used.
The bolts,
McMaster-Carr 93474A233
www.mcmaster.com/93474A233/
Wheel/Hub Bearing,
Timken Bearing RWD; Z85 LS
Left HA590058
Right HA590062
@@SABsGarageholy crap! Thanks!
Got it done, how to reset abs? Mine are still on
Usually the ABS does a self check as soon as the key is turned on, but if it doesn't clear then you have to use a scan tool that has ABS capability to clear.
@@SABsGarage found the problem.... one of the abs just disconnected... we good now Thanks!
uhh i bet 100$ you still had it not work, the magnet was completely messed up that the sensor reads from, go for drive
Yep you are right, at the end of the video I said the light came back on about a 1/4 mile down the road. The reluctor ring must be rusted up or damaged. Oh well, I'll replace it when I get time. Thanks for watching!