I am adding a new rule. No help or questions answered unless it's related to the video and you are subscribed to the channel. It takes up to much time to reply and I am not free tech support.
Do you do these repairs for others? I've got a tonearm with busted bearings, I think, and I'm hell-bent on fixing the tonearm, rather than just getting a replacement.
I'm going to add something. DO NOT use a drill bit to do this, use a chucking reamer. If you are using a MR52ZZ bearing, use a reamer that reams it to about 4,95mm or so, and if you do this you should be able to use a hand held drill for this job instead of needing a drill press or milling machine. You don't need a 3D printed fixture or anything to hold it, there's a substance out there called "friendly plastic" that works, or just a few flat bars of wood or aluminum glued together if you don't want to 3D print anything. But use a chucking reamer, DO NOT use a drill bit. You will get better accuracy and you can size the hole just enough that you should be able to press the bearing in, without needing to use glue or anything.
This is next level deck tech. I really appreciate you putting these videos up. This is what the internet was made for. Clever people showing the average joe that if their tonearm bearings are damaged- then leave it to the clever people to fix it. You are so generous with your knowledge and experiments- thank you so much.
Thanks for the great advice. I just completed this procedure on a SL-1700 mk II, took me hours to take it apart, get it back together and fine tune the auto return and auto start, but it works great now. I did one thing different though, I used the same size bearing, but got the flanged version. Uses the rim of the hole instead of the angled bottom so it seated very precisely. I made a shim out of an old credit card on the bottom pivot to adjust for the bearing flange thickness.
I got guys on Audio Karma that basically told me I butchered a tonearm doing this fix on it. He insists that it must use original bearing, and it's crap because it's easily dented. The bearing face is a critical surface. Then he goes on to attack my country because USA-USA.
Thanks Dj Legion this worked like a charm. I free hand the pilot hole I didn't have the drill press but I was very careful. You're not removing a lot of material. Just shaving it. Came out amazing. I am a happy camper. Thank you!!!
This is really good to know that this is possible. When I damaged the bearings on my 1210 mk2 turntable, I had to replace the whole pivot section. Really enjoyed this video!
@@DerekCullyI think that the damage is because when you tigth the screw, without want it, its tip don´t be inserted into de center of bearing and it esqueze the wall of bearing deforming it. I did that after paint and rearm that pieces. Cannot see in the moment. you need to be very carefully. regards and happy sppining
@@DerekCully The bearings get deformed into an oval shape and then the tension from the deformation and the adjustment screws cause the deformed bearing to act like a rotational spring.
Heat up the assembly and freeze the bearing . Should fit in easy. The heat will expand the arm assembly and the freezing will shrink the bearing. This is what is done for installation of transmission bearings. In theory it should work if the tolerances are close.
I have just stumbled across this video while searching for something else related to the Technics 1200/1210 and it intrigued me to watch it. Obviously the majority of people don't have 3D printers and pillar drills to hand, but it was more how the bearing was fitted. I haven't the time to read through all the comments but at a glance I didn't see the method mentioned I am about to suggest. I've fitted bearings into all sorts by placing the bearing in the fridge or freezer for a while, meanwhile the part the bearing is to be fitted into sits in the sun / near a radiator / in a warm place. Due to good old thermodynamics, the bearing contracts in the cold and the other part expands in the warmth allowing the bearing to be gently pressed or tapped in with little effort. Anyone tried it? May work rather than drilling castings.
Worked great used a 7/32 bit and ate away material slowly, dab of super glue that’s it. Top and bottom fixed, $10 for ten bearings vs $299+ for a new tonearm!
Well done! Do you have the measurements of the hole? Diameter and depth? And do you know if its the same bearing size as the in the horisontal part? Thanks for sharing!
Very very impresive, could you explain how to adjust the side screw of the tonearm, that would be very interesting. I need to adjust both tonearm of mine, i own 2 technics M5G. I need only to adjust the pivot (same height botom and top)because the tonearm always stops at certain distance, so i need to adjust it. I think i need to make sure the pivot is freely to spin as in your video.
That is one hackfuck of a repair, sorry, the extremely tight tolerances of that tone arm have been forever lost. Just buy it from Kab or another supplier. I would not play my records on that.
@@castuart81instalment of a modern tonearm is very straightforward and in no way feels like a "hack"... It's held in place using the original 2 screws. The only problem is that at the moment you can only buy entire assemblies, including a tonearm base (with vta etc). You need to take out the tonearm with only the pivot parts as the base won't fit the old decks.
If you take down the 4 indentations that hold the old bearing in with a fine dremel file, it will come out a lot easier, and I use a similar bearing but 6mm external, then fitting is much nicer. But good job either way pal and n1 for helping the 1200 community ;)
maybe a short thought through question but are you also well in reason to use this on the arm's "up or down" axle? i'm doing this on SYNQ XTRM1 (hanpin superOEM but when i grab some precision measure calipers they are a bit over 5mm OD if i'm recalling my previous measuring b4 deciding to forward on this stabilizer modification (if u will) upgrade for the up and down motion as well as the rotation of the base arm pivot, not sure if the top/bottom bearing sockets are equal to Technics or not, actually didn't get to mind on measuring these as well when i was havin at it on my tonearm spare parts set (ordered 2 new SUPER OEM Turntables after the authorities stacked both TT's on top of one another when they were seized after a "Free party" aka, non legally licenced party :p, anyway both were significantly messed on the arm side of the decks, however the boxes they came in " branded Epsilon" handwritten on outside box, they were wrapped in silky cloth, 2 tapes around base of arm and the headshell socket , a foam block between arm's base and under the armtube rear (where the arm weight goes on) which was snug between the armtube and the surface of the base of the tonearm, that was all well n decent, but no snug securing the arm assembly inside the package at all,, aka free about 5-7,5cm play from laying it down on bottom to the roof of the shipped enclosures,, aka having the base+the metal threadring that comes with the height adjust ring on any fully assembled arm, is quite a decent chunk of weight to it, a mere allu armpipe + 1 x package size length drop, fall , or any other minimal sudden movement of packages, aka, opened them, 1 arm was so bent it would make the collar come out at about the quartz lock button's loc, the 2nd one looked almost just unharmed but from a side perspective there was a very clearly noticeable angle in where it curved downards from about the tonearm secure clamp's base towards the collar for ur cart, is it adviseable to swap the normal SME Socket's with some Higher quality ones to make sure they don't come ending up not being secured to the arm's entire static shape , what would advisible type of wiring to use from headshell to inner table's pcb contacts? might aswell take a proper go at it instead of skipping and later regret having so, soz for length but well seems like the right place to ask,
I was wondering if I have a tone arm that does have some play (not very much) could I try tightening the locking nut to fix it? Many people online suggest just buying a new tonearm which seems like a waste.
Hi Lee, I have a couple of questions regarding the drilling / reaming of the gimbal. Is that a 4.9mm ream or drill bit you used in this example? Was there a particular speed that you set the drill to? Kind regards, Charlie
Don't use a drill bit, use a reamer. If you use a drill bit it will catch and ruin the part. Get a reamer that will ream it to 4.95mm and you can press the bearing in with some pressure, no need to glue it in. This will save you from spending hundreds of dollars on historical parts. Another thing is, this MR52ZZ bearing will likely outlast the original bearing. The original bearing is made of some very soft metal.
@@djjammindave But there is more to the spec than the spacing. The thickness of the blade is important. The thinnest blade I could find was 1.1mm and I believe that is still too thick. 0.8mm would be more likely to fit the slot.
I have those OM Pro S cartridges. The instructions say to set it up with 4g. I had to add the weights they supply to achieve 4g but it seemed too heavy to me. I was worried about my vinyl getting worn out. I'm having some issues with DVS as it occasionally says "low voltage" on Traktor. Also "ground hum". Bloody things.
This is a great video but I have to say that drill bit going into that precisely machined piece of tonearm assembly really made my toes curl! I applaud you for doing this. It’s certainly something I wouldn’t do. I thought those bearings had to be tightened to a very precise torque?
not the bearings, the part that is screws into them needs adjusting, I have two options try this or throw that machined tonearm part away for the sake of a small bearing. I searched and asked to find the original part, plus would need special tools to remove and replace. This worked as long as the spin is good and I have failed many times and still do.
DJ legion well I appreciate your efforts. Cheaper solutions are welcome if it means we can keep these iconic turntables going for years to come. I vowed never to sell my 1210s when I bought them 25 years ago. I’ve seen refurbished complete tonearms go for £250 and then some which I’m not keen on.
@@UTO0O0B price of tonearms doubled as soon a they stopped making the older version and so all the parts to make one also doubled. I think I have about 40 of these parts that need the bearing replaced, but I am not selling any parts and keeping for repairs.
On the vertical side bearing screws, the left hand locking ring doesn’t seem to have a thread and keeps popping out when adjusting the screw. How come it’s different from the opposite side? Is there a fix for this?
Can you tell me what the diameter and depth of the original hole in the tonarm is? Because there are smaller bearings (4mm OD, 4.76mm OD etc.), so there might be no drilling needed.
If anyone does know what the original bearing part no is and also a tool that is small enough to pull these out and press back in, I would love to know.
Excellent video ... just what I was looking for. However, I've read in several places that these are factory set and 'not worth' trying to fix - one said that it was a 3 hour job resetting bearings balance vs 1/2 to change the tone arm. When I last bought a tone arm several (approx 5 years ago) it cost around £65 ... they're £200-£350 plus now ... crazy ... so well 'worth' trying to fix!!!! How was it resetting the center (horizontal) bearing (which is where my problem is)? The part is £45 but I've got a good one off the old one I replaced so was going to try and swap them over but I want to try and reset the 'wobbly' one first..
You should get an even better result if you remove the shields on both sides of the bearing,clean out the lube and replace with the super fine synthetic bearing lube,leave the shields off,as the shields in bearings that size create friction
Great video, might attempt this as well. Did you use a specific brand of bearing for this? Or did you look for any specific specifications for these bearings?
@@GGarcia7111 MR52-ZZ or MR52-2Z, Deep Groove Ball Bearing, Inner diam. 2 mm, Outer diam. 5 mm, Width 2.5 mm. Pick a well known brand, not the cheap china bearings. I used EZO in one TT, I will use ZEN in another tonearm. Good luck!
@@GGarcia7111 you are very welcome! Sharing knowledge is the power of the internet 💪 In that context: I used a pillar drill to drill the holes to the correct size using a 5mm drill. No need for special casing for the parts, when you use a good flat surface it is very easy. And use a little bit of glue to make them stick. Good luck doing yours! 👍
@@DJlegionuk MR62ZZ bearings exist too, meaning it has a 6mm outer diameter and a 2mm inside diameter. If they work better then by all means, go for it.
I'm gonna try and order this part and a few others from overseas manufacturing to specified measurements in order to see if I can find a similar enclosed bearing that sits flush without needing drilling or gluing. I'll report back after a few months when the parts all are machined and arrive =)
@@aka_juan YES, I use brushed chrome steel standard size #682 size bearings (not 682zz) and a thin ring of rubber heatshrink around it to fix it in place. It works with both vertical and horizontal bearings and requires no glue and no drilling I usually load the bearing onto a magnet and cut a tiny sliver of heatshrink around it, heat it into place; then slide the shrink off and put it into the empty bearing slot; and then fit the bearing into place after which takes about 2min to do even when it's being difficult. I was getting quotes to injectionmould a tiny ring around the bearing but they were dramatically more expensive than the shrink itself so at the moment I just use that. The rubber ring makes it so you can still adjust the top pin by hand and allows slight space for the bearing to expand into without warping if you overload it I've done it on about 16 decks so far and they all have perfect play and functionality without any chance of messing up the housing whatsoever, they're perfect I sell them for 6$ea in LA (the cheapest place I could find online was 15$ shipped) but you can also buy them from an alibaba manufacturer if you're down to wait the shipping time
Side bearing is the exact same material, but they don't get damaged as often for some reason. If that breaks the same procedure applies. Except I believe case for the side bearing is made of a separate piece of 6061 T6 aluminum rather than the cheap cast aluminum the top and bottom bearing case is made of. Which means if I screw up I can simply TIG weld the hole closed and redrill. I do not know if I can TIG weld cast aluminum.
Wow! Excellent! Do you offer a service for this? I'd love to send you an arm for you to fix for me (paid of course). If not, do you offer any repaired parts for sale?
@@bradleysmith681 Get a chucking reamer, something that reams it to about 4.95mm in diameter (this will be marked as 5mm actually, but if you get it used it will be 4.95mm). You may safely use a hand held drill for this. If you use a reamer, and not a drill bit, you will get very accurate holes that match up to the bearing exactly and no gluing should be necessary at all. It's better to drill it too shallow than too deep by the way. This cast aluminum cuts easily.
Realy good. Does the 5mm OD seat tightly against the walls of the pivot or is there a gap? If there is a gap, would 6mm OD be a better choice? Thanks. Really an excellent video.
it fits, but not a lot of the drilled part makes contact so it's not enough for a friction fit. I never tried a mr62ZZ so it it could help. I will see if I can get mr62zz from the same place and do a test.
@@DJlegionuk Thanks! This truly is a creative, excellent solution. These tonearms are getting harder to find, so it's great to see a way to keep them from being thrown out. Yes, very curious about that 6mm (OD).
Hi lee I wondered if you had the exact bearing size required rather than reforming the arm as i think i have found a product that would better suit. - I tried contacting you on FB looks like you dont use that account much anymore
there is no room to fit any other bearing unless you have the original, it's just made for that one. The original is a open bearing so the ball bearings sit in the space under the metal cover.
@@danbizaro869 at 2:22 you can see the inside after I removed the old one, so are you going to try to fit one in the wider section ? It has some clips things in the way on that part. Then the smaller section I drill out was too small for a good bearing that also fits the inside diameter too.
The original bearing appears to be custom made or something, and the case/race is made of some very soft material. Not kidding at all, look at the video and see how it deforms as he tries to remove it. That deformation is what causes the tonearm to not track properly by the way. I think if there is some flat disk bearing that fits the indentation (which appears to be exactly 6mm) it might work, but you will want to use something made of hardened steel, not this soft mild steel they make this one out of. I think MR62ZZ bearing should also work but you will have to drill out the pocket. DO NOT use a drill bit, use a reamer. A drill bit will oversize the hole no matter the method you use to drill it (even in a milling machine with the bit held in an ER collet). Turntable must be made to a cost because this bearing materials is really low quality. Even the cheap Chinese bearing is made of hardened steel and ground to some very tight tolerance. The original one looks like stamped steel.
Mam problem z pitch. W dwóch gramofonach skala jest zwężona od +3% do +8% reaguje a od 0 do +3% nie reaguje. Czy potencjometry do wymiany? A od 0 do -8% działa poprawnie. Prosze o Pomoc
This is the translation: "I have a pitch problem. In two turntables the scale is narrowed from + 3% to + 8% reacts and from 0 to + 3% does not react. Are the potentiometers to be replaced? And from 0 to -8% works fine. Please help" Have you got any videos on pitches to help him?
It's smaller than the MR52ZZ you used, but in depth only. Or am i missing something on that page.? MR52ZZ 5mm OD 2mm ID and 2.5mm depth 682ZZ 5mm OD 2mm ID and 2.3mm depth Great idea & work btw. Keep it up :)
As an engineer may suggest loctite low strength reting compound ( purple ) as its better for ally and steel Also if it was 2rs no zz bearing you could possibly take a seal off and grease the bearing Mind you ya need micron tools Grate vid thanks
The glue just fills space as the bearing is a slip fit. The proper product would be a Locktite Sleeve Retainer but CA glue should work fine for such a tiny job. The bearing can’t fall out once the points are adjusted. What are we to do? No bearing parts are available from Technics, so we have to replace the whole tone arm assembly.? But wait, there are no replacements available for my TT. This is a logical solution to keep an old machine running. What’s the worst thing that could happen? Technics already considers it not salvageable, otherwise they would sell replacement bearings.
There is 1 million videos out there on how to do so on RUclips. Here’s one I quickly found for you. ruclips.net/video/7b7SXICH5LM/видео.html It’s not like it’s rocket science.
I am adding a new rule. No help or questions answered unless it's related to the video and you are subscribed to the channel. It takes up to much time to reply and I am not free tech support.
Do you do these repairs for others? I've got a tonearm with busted bearings, I think, and I'm hell-bent on fixing the tonearm, rather than just getting a replacement.
How much would u charge me for 1 Kimball gig.Please help😊
Hello brother.I need to buy a jig for the kimball.I have everything to do the job.minus the jig.
How much do u want and I can give u a card
Hello , how much for the jig for the kimball ? Thanks
I'm going to add something.
DO NOT use a drill bit to do this, use a chucking reamer. If you are using a MR52ZZ bearing, use a reamer that reams it to about 4,95mm or so, and if you do this you should be able to use a hand held drill for this job instead of needing a drill press or milling machine. You don't need a 3D printed fixture or anything to hold it, there's a substance out there called "friendly plastic" that works, or just a few flat bars of wood or aluminum glued together if you don't want to 3D print anything.
But use a chucking reamer, DO NOT use a drill bit. You will get better accuracy and you can size the hole just enough that you should be able to press the bearing in, without needing to use glue or anything.
This is next level deck tech. I really appreciate you putting these videos up. This is what the internet was made for. Clever people showing the average joe that if their tonearm bearings are damaged- then leave it to the clever people to fix it. You are so generous with your knowledge and experiments- thank you so much.
Thanks for the great advice. I just completed this procedure on a SL-1700 mk II, took me hours to take it apart, get it back together and fine tune the auto return and auto start, but it works great now.
I did one thing different though, I used the same size bearing, but got the flanged version. Uses the rim of the hole instead of the angled bottom so it seated very precisely. I made a shim out of an old credit card on the bottom pivot to adjust for the bearing flange thickness.
An ingenious fix, and appears to work really well. The Technics 1200 series -- what a classic. You are a man of many talents. Great work!
this is more of a day job subject, it's getting hard to find good parts that are not expensive so always looking for ways to repair parts when I can.
I got guys on Audio Karma that basically told me I butchered a tonearm doing this fix on it. He insists that it must use original bearing, and it's crap because it's easily dented. The bearing face is a critical surface.
Then he goes on to attack my country because USA-USA.
Nice to see that there is still some good people out there with genuinely good intentions. Thanks again.
Thanks Dj Legion this worked like a charm. I free hand the pilot hole I didn't have the drill press but I was very careful. You're not removing a lot of material. Just shaving it. Came out amazing. I am a happy camper. Thank you!!!
This is really good to know that this is possible. When I damaged the bearings on my 1210 mk2 turntable, I had to replace the whole pivot section. Really enjoyed this video!
Really excellent. Failed bearings is the main problem with this tonearms.
I have a turntable table with a similar tone arm...by chance...How did you damage the bearing?
@@DerekCullyI think that the damage is because when you tigth the screw, without want it, its tip don´t be inserted into de center of bearing and it esqueze the wall of bearing deforming it. I did that after paint and rearm that pieces. Cannot see in the moment. you need to be very carefully. regards and happy sppining
@@HoMuSicFacTORY much appreciated. Happy spinning my friend.
@@DerekCully The bearings get deformed into an oval shape and then the tension from the deformation and the adjustment screws cause the deformed bearing to act like a rotational spring.
Great work, repairing Tonearm bearings is no easy task! Johnie from Audio Origami, would be proud!
Heat up the assembly and freeze the bearing . Should fit in easy. The heat will expand the arm assembly and the freezing will shrink the bearing. This is what is done for installation of transmission bearings. In theory it should work if the tolerances are close.
I have just stumbled across this video while searching for something else related to the Technics 1200/1210 and it intrigued me to watch it.
Obviously the majority of people don't have 3D printers and pillar drills to hand, but it was more how the bearing was fitted. I haven't the time to read through all the comments but at a glance I didn't see the method mentioned I am about to suggest.
I've fitted bearings into all sorts by placing the bearing in the fridge or freezer for a while, meanwhile the part the bearing is to be fitted into sits in the sun / near a radiator / in a warm place.
Due to good old thermodynamics, the bearing contracts in the cold and the other part expands in the warmth allowing the bearing to be gently pressed or tapped in with little effort.
Anyone tried it? May work rather than drilling castings.
I love it man. I gives me hard time what model of bearing to be used. I replaced mine with tamiya ball race bearing. 5 years ago. Still working fine.
An expert fix. Loved the video👍
Just started doing mine. Ended up printing off some guides for the top beqring. Just need to glue one in the bottom now.
Worked great used a 7/32 bit and ate away material slowly, dab of super glue that’s it. Top and bottom fixed, $10 for ten bearings vs $299+ for a new tonearm!
That looks like a job well done. Another good vid from you, I have enjoyed it. Thank you
Well done! Do you have the measurements of the hole? Diameter and depth? And do you know if its the same bearing size as the in the horisontal part?
Thanks for sharing!
Very very impresive, could you explain how to adjust the side screw of the tonearm, that would be very interesting. I need to adjust both tonearm of mine, i own 2 technics M5G. I need only to adjust the pivot (same height botom and top)because the tonearm always stops at certain distance, so i need to adjust it. I think i need to make sure the pivot is freely to spin as in your video.
Did you manage to solve it?
Hi, The page for download the stl file for the gimbal clamp seems to be not workign at all. Any solutions to get the file ?
$275 gets you a brand new current production SL-1500C tonearm. The new arms fit the old decks.
That is one hackfuck of a repair, sorry, the extremely tight tolerances of that tone arm have been forever lost. Just buy it from Kab or another supplier. I would not play my records on that.
@@castuart81instalment of a modern tonearm is very straightforward and in no way feels like a "hack"... It's held in place using the original 2 screws. The only problem is that at the moment you can only buy entire assemblies, including a tonearm base (with vta etc). You need to take out the tonearm with only the pivot parts as the base won't fit the old decks.
If you take down the 4 indentations that hold the old bearing in with a fine dremel file, it will come out a lot easier, and I use a similar bearing but 6mm external, then fitting is much nicer.
But good job either way pal and n1 for helping the 1200 community ;)
Anyway to buy your .stl for the clamp ?
link is in the description.
Hi where did you bought the driver for the outer ring where the screw is?
maybe a short thought through question but are you also well in reason to use this on the arm's "up or down" axle? i'm doing this on SYNQ XTRM1 (hanpin superOEM but when i grab some precision measure calipers they are a bit over 5mm OD if i'm recalling my previous measuring b4 deciding to forward on this stabilizer modification (if u will) upgrade for the up and down motion as well as the rotation of the base arm pivot, not sure if the top/bottom bearing sockets are equal to Technics or not, actually didn't get to mind on measuring these as well when i was havin at it on my tonearm spare parts set (ordered 2 new SUPER OEM Turntables after the authorities stacked both TT's on top of one another when they were seized after a "Free party" aka, non legally licenced party :p, anyway both were significantly messed on the arm side of the decks, however the boxes they came in " branded Epsilon" handwritten on outside box, they were wrapped in silky cloth, 2 tapes around base of arm and the headshell socket , a foam block between arm's base and under the armtube rear (where the arm weight goes on) which was snug between the armtube and the surface of the base of the tonearm, that was all well n decent, but no snug securing the arm assembly inside the package at all,, aka free about 5-7,5cm play from laying it down on bottom to the roof of the shipped enclosures,, aka having the base+the metal threadring that comes with the height adjust ring on any fully assembled arm, is quite a decent chunk of weight to it, a mere allu armpipe + 1 x package size length drop, fall , or any other minimal sudden movement of packages, aka, opened them, 1 arm was so bent it would make the collar come out at about the quartz lock button's loc, the 2nd one looked almost just unharmed but from a side perspective there was a very clearly noticeable angle in where it curved downards from about the tonearm secure clamp's base towards the collar for ur cart, is it adviseable to swap the normal SME Socket's with some Higher quality ones to make sure they don't come ending up not being secured to the arm's entire static shape , what would advisible type of wiring to use from headshell to inner table's pcb contacts? might aswell take a proper go at it instead of skipping and later regret having so, soz for length but well seems like the right place to ask,
I was wondering if I have a tone arm that does have some play (not very much) could I try tightening the locking nut to fix it? Many people online suggest just buying a new tonearm which seems like a waste.
depends why it has play, it could be loose or the bearing could be damaged.
Thanks for the bearing size! Subscribed!
Hi Lee,
I have a couple of questions regarding the drilling / reaming of the gimbal.
Is that a 4.9mm ream or drill bit you used in this example?
Was there a particular speed that you set the drill to?
Kind regards,
Charlie
5mm drill bit and I am not sure what speed.between 1400 and 2000
Don't use a drill bit, use a reamer. If you use a drill bit it will catch and ruin the part. Get a reamer that will ream it to 4.95mm and you can press the bearing in with some pressure, no need to glue it in.
This will save you from spending hundreds of dollars on historical parts.
Another thing is, this MR52ZZ bearing will likely outlast the original bearing. The original bearing is made of some very soft metal.
It would be nice to know the size security spanner bit you are using to turn the locking screw.
I think he said a 5 mil
THANK YOU, THAT WAS MY QUESTION. SO I GOT THE REPLIED.
@@djjammindave But there is more to the spec than the spacing. The thickness of the blade is important. The thinnest blade I could find was 1.1mm and I believe that is still too thick. 0.8mm would be more likely to fit the slot.
hi would you know if epa 100 uses the same mold?
I have those OM Pro S cartridges. The instructions say to set it up with 4g. I had to add the weights they supply to achieve 4g but it seemed too heavy to me. I was worried about my vinyl getting worn out. I'm having some issues with DVS as it occasionally says "low voltage" on Traktor. Also "ground hum". Bloody things.
Great video and we'll done, I just bought my first ever pair of MK2s and one looks like mine needs this done lol 🤣
How do you unscrew the top nut/screw?
Though is not critical as the top screw, how you calibrate the side screw tension wich regulates the arm to vertical motion freely?
just the same way. you can feel it move left and right if it's loose so tighten a very small amount each time.
Excellent demo. Much appreciated!
I am wondering if you had a link to the bearing lock screwdriver you used in this video (the orange handled one) thank you!
it was just in my cheap screwdriver bit collection and I ground it to fit.
A non-conical drill bit would be nice to give a nice flat surface for the bearing to sit on.
This is a great video but I have to say that drill bit going into that precisely machined piece of tonearm assembly really made my toes curl! I applaud you for doing this. It’s certainly something I wouldn’t do. I thought those bearings had to be tightened to a very precise torque?
not the bearings, the part that is screws into them needs adjusting, I have two options try this or throw that machined tonearm part away for the sake of a small bearing. I searched and asked to find the original part, plus would need special tools to remove and replace. This worked as long as the spin is good and I have failed many times and still do.
DJ legion well I appreciate your efforts. Cheaper solutions are welcome if it means we can keep these iconic turntables going for years to come. I vowed never to sell my 1210s when I bought them 25 years ago. I’ve seen refurbished complete tonearms go for £250 and then some which I’m not keen on.
@@UTO0O0B price of tonearms doubled as soon a they stopped making the older version and so all the parts to make one also doubled. I think I have about 40 of these parts that need the bearing replaced, but I am not selling any parts and keeping for repairs.
On the vertical side bearing screws, the left hand locking ring doesn’t seem to have a thread and keeps popping out when adjusting the screw. How come it’s different from the opposite side? Is there a fix for this?
one side it normally fixed in place and has no adjustment.
Can you tell me what the diameter and depth of the original hole in the tonarm is? Because there are smaller bearings (4mm OD, 4.76mm OD etc.), so there might be no drilling needed.
I tried all the ones I could get and this is what I used. 4mm was too small and 5mm was a fraction too big.
@@DJlegionuk Thanks for the quick reply! I have to try it anyway. Maybe the 4.76mm bearing fits. I'll tell you ;)
@@dedondigital you have to make sure the point fits in top and bottom too please let us know if you find one that fits with no drilling.
@@dedondigital So does a 4.76mm bearing fit?
I have idea to use a 4mm bearing and put a thin ring to fill the free space between the bearing and the pivot.
Can you please let me know where you got your lock nut screwdriver from ?
i made it, look at other comments for more info
If anyone does know what the original bearing part no is and also a tool that is small enough to pull these out and press back in, I would love to know.
@x xx no more than places I already buy parts from.
But because those are sealed bearings, there is a ring contacting the setscrew instead of balls?
Excellent video ... just what I was looking for. However, I've read in several places that these are factory set and 'not worth' trying to fix - one said that it was a 3 hour job resetting bearings balance vs 1/2 to change the tone arm. When I last bought a tone arm several (approx 5 years ago) it cost around £65 ... they're £200-£350 plus now ... crazy ... so well 'worth' trying to fix!!!! How was it resetting the center (horizontal) bearing (which is where my problem is)? The part is £45 but I've got a good one off the old one I replaced so was going to try and swap them over but I want to try and reset the 'wobbly' one first..
Excellent job mate.
You should get an even better result if you remove the shields on both sides of the bearing,clean out the lube and replace with the super fine synthetic bearing lube,leave the shields off,as the shields in bearings that size create friction
Great video, might attempt this as well. Did you use a specific brand of bearing for this? Or did you look for any specific specifications for these bearings?
never mind, I ordered some good quality bearings and did all for for my tonearm. Works like a charm, thanks for posting this!
@@niekosify do you mind telling what type and size bearings did you order and what website?? Thx
@@GGarcia7111 MR52-ZZ or MR52-2Z, Deep Groove Ball Bearing, Inner diam. 2 mm, Outer diam. 5 mm, Width 2.5 mm. Pick a well known brand, not the cheap china bearings. I used EZO in one TT, I will use ZEN in another tonearm. Good luck!
@@niekosify awesom. Appreciate the info. Thanks a lot. Some other guys don't like to share that info. And it's very helpful. 👍👍👏
@@GGarcia7111 you are very welcome! Sharing knowledge is the power of the internet 💪 In that context: I used a pillar drill to drill the holes to the correct size using a 5mm drill. No need for special casing for the parts, when you use a good flat surface it is very easy. And use a little bit of glue to make them stick.
Good luck doing yours! 👍
sei un grande. ho questo problema al mio 1210.
Which bearing is better after your testing 5mm or 6mm one?
I just want to thank you for the efforts sharing all of this Jewell information.
only the 5mm because the hole on the 6mm was too big and the point would sit inside.
@@DJlegionuk many thanks for your prompt reply.
@@DJlegionuk MR62ZZ bearings exist too, meaning it has a 6mm outer diameter and a 2mm inside diameter. If they work better then by all means, go for it.
Nice work, considering doing the same with my mk2's. How have these handled scratching, so far?
Also, would a W682 bearing be better? it's 5x2x1.5mm, so may not need drilling to sit flush?
@@beatntrakdjlandrover9734 if you have an answer to this question i'm interested in it :)
I'm gonna try and order this part and a few others from overseas manufacturing to specified measurements in order to see if I can find a similar enclosed bearing that sits flush without needing drilling or gluing. I'll report back after a few months when the parts all are machined and arrive =)
@@flapjackthekandikid did you find any suitable bearings in the end?
@@aka_juan YES, I use brushed chrome steel standard size #682 size bearings (not 682zz) and a thin ring of rubber heatshrink around it to fix it in place. It works with both vertical and horizontal bearings and requires no glue and no drilling
I usually load the bearing onto a magnet and cut a tiny sliver of heatshrink around it, heat it into place; then slide the shrink off and put it into the empty bearing slot; and then fit the bearing into place after which takes about 2min to do even when it's being difficult.
I was getting quotes to injectionmould a tiny ring around the bearing but they were dramatically more expensive than the shrink itself so at the moment I just use that. The rubber ring makes it so you can still adjust the top pin by hand and allows slight space for the bearing to expand into without warping if you overload it
I've done it on about 16 decks so far and they all have perfect play and functionality without any chance of messing up the housing whatsoever, they're perfect
I sell them for 6$ea in LA (the cheapest place I could find online was 15$ shipped) but you can also buy them from an alibaba manufacturer if you're down to wait the shipping time
Wow, your awesome, I got a a question, does this apply to all bearings ? Top , bottom, sides ? Thanks
I only know top and bottom and it's vary rare to see the sides damaged.
Side bearing is the exact same material, but they don't get damaged as often for some reason. If that breaks the same procedure applies. Except I believe case for the side bearing is made of a separate piece of 6061 T6 aluminum rather than the cheap cast aluminum the top and bottom bearing case is made of.
Which means if I screw up I can simply TIG weld the hole closed and redrill. I do not know if I can TIG weld cast aluminum.
Wow! Excellent! Do you offer a service for this? I'd love to send you an arm for you to fix for me (paid of course). If not, do you offer any repaired parts for sale?
are you in the UK ? if so yes I would look at it for you.
@@DJlegionuk No, sorry, in the USA. First time I looked at your channel, so I didn't realize you are in the UK..
@@bradleysmith681 Get a chucking reamer, something that reams it to about 4.95mm in diameter (this will be marked as 5mm actually, but if you get it used it will be 4.95mm). You may safely use a hand held drill for this. If you use a reamer, and not a drill bit, you will get very accurate holes that match up to the bearing exactly and no gluing should be necessary at all. It's better to drill it too shallow than too deep by the way. This cast aluminum cuts easily.
Realy good. Does the 5mm OD seat tightly against the walls of the pivot or is there a gap? If there is a gap, would 6mm OD be a better choice? Thanks. Really an excellent video.
it fits, but not a lot of the drilled part makes contact so it's not enough for a friction fit. I never tried a mr62ZZ so it it could help. I will see if I can get mr62zz from the same place and do a test.
@@DJlegionuk Thanks! This truly is a creative, excellent solution. These tonearms are getting harder to find, so it's great to see a way to keep them from being thrown out. Yes, very curious about that 6mm (OD).
@@DJlegionuk Thank you so much for the excellent video. Did you ever get to test the 6mm OD mr62zz bearings?
@@aka_juanthese work very well for me, I did test 6mm OD and it would need more metal removed so I don't see what improvement it would have.
@@DJlegionukAmazing, that’s great to know. Many thanks for sharing all this valuable info 🙏
Hi lee I wondered if you had the exact bearing size required rather than reforming the arm as i think i have found a product that would better suit. - I tried contacting you on FB looks like you dont use that account much anymore
there is no room to fit any other bearing unless you have the original, it's just made for that one. The original is a open bearing so the ball bearings sit in the space under the metal cover.
@@DJlegionuk Ill try I think I have a old arm that a pulled that i can work on if I have good results will let you know
@@danbizaro869 at 2:22 you can see the inside after I removed the old one, so are you going to try to fit one in the wider section ? It has some clips things in the way on that part. Then the smaller section I drill out was too small for a good bearing that also fits the inside diameter too.
The original bearing appears to be custom made or something, and the case/race is made of some very soft material. Not kidding at all, look at the video and see how it deforms as he tries to remove it. That deformation is what causes the tonearm to not track properly by the way. I think if there is some flat disk bearing that fits the indentation (which appears to be exactly 6mm) it might work, but you will want to use something made of hardened steel, not this soft mild steel they make this one out of.
I think MR62ZZ bearing should also work but you will have to drill out the pocket. DO NOT use a drill bit, use a reamer. A drill bit will oversize the hole no matter the method you use to drill it (even in a milling machine with the bit held in an ER collet).
Turntable must be made to a cost because this bearing materials is really low quality. Even the cheap Chinese bearing is made of hardened steel and ground to some very tight tolerance. The original one looks like stamped steel.
Good job! My best compliments!
Someone needs to make and sell technic parts. Would earn a fortune.
Great work
Ur an Animal brother! Excellent work 👏 👍!
Did you replace the top bearings as well? Or just the bottom bearing? Thanks. Can you replace both bearings top and bottom?? Thanks
Cool thank you.
Mam problem z pitch. W dwóch gramofonach skala jest zwężona od +3% do +8% reaguje a od 0 do +3% nie reaguje. Czy potencjometry do wymiany? A od 0 do -8% działa poprawnie. Prosze o Pomoc
I don't know what you are asking, but I guess it's something about pitch. This video is about the bearings.
@@DJlegionuk problem potencjometr pitch technics 1210mk2
@@DANIELSCHRANZ-w6y dude, English.
@@DANIELSCHRANZ-w6y ok, so like I said I am not going to answer pitch questions in this video.
This is the translation:
"I have a pitch problem. In two turntables the scale is narrowed from + 3% to + 8% reacts and from 0 to + 3% does not react.
Are the potentiometers to be replaced? And from 0 to
-8% works fine. Please help"
Have you got any videos on pitches to help him?
More like Dj Legend
Wouldn't a 682zz fit without the need to drill? its 2.3mm www.lily-bearing.com/ball-bearings/miniature-bearing/miniature-metric-bearings/682zz/
hi, it's too wide and tall to fit, I have 63zz and still needs drilling
It's smaller than the MR52ZZ you used, but in depth only. Or am i missing something on that page.?
MR52ZZ 5mm OD 2mm ID and 2.5mm depth 682ZZ 5mm OD 2mm ID and 2.3mm depth
Great idea & work btw. Keep it up :)
@@DJlegionuk Hi can you do a repair for me please?I will send you just the pivot.Thanks for the great videos!!!👍✌
@@gabornyerges4801 hi, are you in the uk ? if not what would it cost to send it to me and then the return ?
@@DJlegionuk Hi, yes i living in the UK(south wales)✌
You can get replacement bearings on ebay and some other places so you don't have to drill anything and risk damaging your tonearm.
the bearings are kept in place by metal pressed over the bearings. Check the video again.
Amazing!!!
As an engineer may suggest loctite low strength reting compound ( purple ) as its better for ally and steel
Also if it was 2rs no zz bearing you could possibly take a seal off and grease the bearing Mind you ya need micron tools
Grate vid thanks
for me this is not a Professionel repair. glue for the bearing :)?!? never have seen such a fast adjustment on the upper screw.
The glue just fills space as the bearing is a slip fit. The proper product would be a Locktite Sleeve Retainer but CA glue should work fine for such a tiny job. The bearing can’t fall out once the points are adjusted.
What are we to do? No bearing parts are available from Technics, so we have to replace the whole tone arm assembly.? But wait, there are no replacements available for my TT. This is a logical solution to keep an old machine running. What’s the worst thing that could happen? Technics already considers it not salvageable, otherwise they would sell replacement bearings.
You could’ve used dry ice to shrink the bearing and the oven to expand the casing rather than drilling out a good piece of equipment
i look forward to your video showing how it's done.
There is 1 million videos out there on how to do so on RUclips. Here’s one I quickly found for you.
ruclips.net/video/7b7SXICH5LM/видео.html
It’s not like it’s rocket science.
@@Lilljoescratch I would like you to make it as you're such an expert.
did your voice get more high pitched over the last few years? loll
yes I have developed asthma and can sometimes have trouble talking clearly.
A drill should not be used. A ball bearing is precise, the housing must be machined with precision. Never do what you show 🤦🏻
How much would u charge me for 1 jig