I,m a professional now retired, --- USE THE KILL CORD --- Put a loop in the end and slip it on your wrist. If you get knocked out of the boat the rotation of the crank and engine will put it hard over, and it will come around and get you.
Doug, I love your project and your attitude to life. Please, Please wear the kill switch cord when driving, especially if you are alone. If you fall out you can guarantee the Whaly will come right round and back at you. I have seen the injuries and I know of some deaths, here in OZ. Stay safe mate, so we can continue to enjoy and follow your journey.
Make a spreader bar for the front and back. Will eliminate height issue and forces from pulling inward. The tight angle increases the load tremendously. It really needs bow thrusters 👀
exactly. Just a low little gambrel at each end which would put the hoist webbing within a foot of the boat. That would get it high enough above the transom to swing out a pair of arms for it to set on and then lower it back down. No need to cut sliding rods into the boat.
I'm sure someone else has probably mentioned this, it looks like the Whaly is light in the bow when on a plane with just one person on board. With passengers or cargo it's probably not too much of an issue, but you might want to look into getting a set of hydrofoil fins to go on the outboard. Keeping the bow down will help immensely with rough weather handling, it's less likely to get picked up by the wind, plus it gives you a last line of defense against lines in the water, they've saved my rear more than once with crab pots in the Chesapeake.
Hey Dough, I had the same problem needing a counterweight in front of my boat. I found the Hydrofoil 400 SE solving my problem on my 60hp Yamaha. Front down and very early starting to plane! 100 € invested at german amaz….👍 Works great!
Plastic cold flows so you will always have trouble with those lift holes and you've got the weight of that 40 hp outboard. Use two straps under the dingy with a longitudinal spreader. Lift with the strap and use the holes to tie the dingy off against bow and stern movement.
Cool little boat. I’m thinking ultimately your probably going to rig a under hull strap sling for extended davit stays and in transit. Unfortunately I don’t see the roto plastic holding up at the 4 solo hoist points just due to point loading on the small area the bridle puts most of its load. The opening bow door is brilliant.
I grew up in a small town in Fl on the Gulf coast. When I turned 16 (and might've done it 1 or 2 times b4, don't tell anyone ;-). I'd take my little 14' flat bottom aluminum boat with an old 18hp Evinrude out, put it in the fresh water and in 15 minutes be out in the Gulf fishing... This was back in the late 70's & early 80's b4 the manatees became a thing and all the rivers had idle speed limits. We used to call the manatees speed bumps!! Never had trash like that down there, but I bet thats changed too. I miss the good old days... Safe travels sir!!!
Some of that nylon strap and a couple of spreader bars to use as cradles would relieve any stress from those hard points that WILL break eventually in hard seas. With spread cradles you can drive right into them from port or starboard and the dinghy can be pulled up and stored face against the stern if needed.
Doug, The shackle will help, but I highly recommend re-enforcing the entire shackle area with a custom Stainless shackle support. You can actually screw into the HDPE or Rivnut into the HDPE of the boat. This will apply stress to multiple areas and reduce spot loading. Besides, it would make for a great video! Also a custom stainless spreader bar on the front and back shackle points would reduce the load as well.
Yes, no doubt the spreader bar will make for a better lifting arrangement in calm water but will have the potential to become a head knocker or to capsize the boat when trying to launch or recover in any sea condition other than dead calm.. Seeker with be pitching and rolling differently than the little boat and the spreader bar arrangement will require 4 connections to be released or made up before depending on the operation while being dragged along.. This will create a bad situation for the Coxswain. I don’t know if it is feasible but you should check out the FRC (Fast Rescue Craft) on merchant ship and offshore platforms (any vessel that uses Free Fall Lifeboats). This design uses a single point lifting bridle that requires just one connection to made. ruclips.net/video/N_REUOkgxyI/видео.html may provide some ideas.
Check the height of the motor on the transom. Typically you want the anti-ventilation plate even with or slightly higher than the center rib of the boat. If the motor is too low it will can create excess bow lift. Also, if you can raise it 1 or 2 homes higher on the transom that will give your tiller more clearance.
Hey doug, that thing you guys found on the beach is a high voltage insulator, to support conductor on a pole. The bottom screws onto a steel pin and the groove is where the wire sits. Then it gets tied to the insulator with soft drawn alum or copper
For rigging, the forces on an attachment point for a rigging wire being off vertical is not a linear increase, it is closer to parabolic. The forces on a point with the wire at vertical are incredibly high with a sling that is off angle more than 45 degrees. In rigging the general rule is no more than 30 degrees, especially with something that will see continuous loading like your tender. The solution to this is to use a spreader bar to spread the rope/wires out with a shallow angle and let that take a compression load instead of your attachment points being under tension.
That was a plastic high voltage insulator that would screw onto a cross arm insulator pin, on a power pole. That one was in bad shape, they're usually all smooth and light gray. The high voltage conductor would lay in the grove on the top and get tied down with aluminum wire.
You were wondering about the top end and bow rising……looks like the motor is too deep in the water……motor cavitation plate should be 1” above the keel (or bottom of boat)……if motor is to deep it will create bow rise due to cantilever pressure of the thrust…..raising the motor will reduce the cantilever amount
Hi SV SEEKER, I'm watching all your videos. In reference to your red tender, to avoid damaging the bow, crawling on the water's edge, you can apply an aluminum foil, and use rivets together with sikaflex to fix it. I'm not even telling you that the aluminum foil could be customized. Too easy! Very nice. Soon. Antonio
Doug make you an aluminum spreader bar for the whaly boat . Like they used to lift sealer. It will solve all your problems. Straight lift on Whaley's eyes. Will shorten your lift by taking the y of your bridle away.
Loved you smile while motoring along. A true sign of happiness. That’s a pretty cool rig. While you were talking about the planer boards it took me back in time to when I would use them for diving for lobster down the the FL Keys. It’s hands down the fastest why to the bottom. All the Best Tim
There are horizontal hydra foil wings you can attach to the cavitation plate of the lower unit. They make an amazing difference to performance generally but in particular to planing at low speed and getting the bow down without having to have a gorilla up there. The foils lift the back end of the boat. Makes trim and tilt extremely effective as well at all speeds. I hope you read this. Absolute "must have" will increase your performance 1,000 percent.
Doug, you might consider a hydrofoil stabilizer to help trim your boat, you wont need to add weight to your bow. they work great for smaller boats to keep the bows down like a set of trim tabs. Cheers Brian
shackles and a spreader bar so you lift straight up on the connection points of the Whaly. Also a shackle to connect directly to the spreader bar from the lifting davit. shortest possible connections that way.
Hauling the tender out of the water is one task. Securing it for under way is the next. The lift points need to be able to carry the load in sea conditions without damage. I suggest first using stainless tubing to span two sets of holes, plus threaded rod inside them. Cut your spreader bar to follow the upper gunwhale profile and hook them onto your SS lifting point bars. They need to be tensioned tight onto the hull, solid. Then winch up as you like. The spreader bars need to slid into steel brackets on your David’s, and lock the whole package tight for sea. Solid and simple. Love the work you men have done. Fair winds to you all. Edit…. This will eliminate your winching stop points, since the spreader bar will be a natural stop. A couple of captive through-bolts will secure the spreader bar to the davit brackets, so you can unload the winch too, once you are done lifting. The spreader bars are easily fashioned from timber 6x2, and easy to shape for the hull cutouts
Absolutely. The current system is going to result in the tender being lost, and probably under the worst conditions. (Rough seas, at night, in the cold, and in the rain.)
If you can try to change the trim on the engine to get the nose more pointing down. Once on a plane you can straighten it. If that doesnt work you could try putting the battery and fuel tank to the nose or installing a hydrofoil or trim tabs.
Whaly boats are great... I have a 500R; we had no 455s locally, so I took what I could get... Huge fun, but possibly less than your 455... I added a Permatrim fin to my motor - better for the hole shot when one person is aboard on what are light boats - they might be light but they are very tough.
Hi love your work, I live in Perth Western Australia. May I Suggest you put a stingray on your Yamaha outboard motor. A stingray is a attachment you put to the bottom of your motor that helps hold the front of your boat down. Making your boat run level of just one person in it
That shinny new engine cover is mighty tempting . To keep the bandits away find an old distressed cover and swap it out. 0utdoor carpet fastened with contact cement on the topsides protects against Tropical sun
Hi Doug, Not sure if anyone notice thus but I noticed you adjusted the trim of the motor so it was all the way down. This will help with getting it onto the plane but then it needs to be adjusted back up once you're there, this will then help push the bow down, which will reduce the "slapping" Regards
I heard the big end knock and my alarm was going off long before the motor alarm squealed about the oil problem. Hopefully no permanent damage was done.
@@SVSeekernot true, my race engines and my vintage cars get the oil system primed to 50-psi before starting each season or after a rebuild, before any internal rotating or sliding surface ever moves
You can drill a hole straight through the bolts and drill a hole in the head of the bolt and thread it so you can put a grease nipple in the bolt. When it comes to regular maintenance make it easy or it wont get done.
Hi Doug, did you think of attaching the lifting points to the transom where the motor mounts as that will be a very strong place , for the bow I would loop under to that towing Eye. Nice looking dinghy and the small ones are reasonably priced Cheers Warren
Looking great! I’m a bit nervous about how your landing craft boat is top mount secured. I’m afraid that in wavy conditions it might be subjected high stress conditions and may become damaged or lost. I have no big boat knowledge aside from RUclips but I do like the yacht walk-through videos and they always seem to put the laughing craft on top of the boat strap it down.
@@SVSeeker super I figured their was more to the story. I ran across you all on RUclips years ago and somehow lost you all’s story until just about two mounts ago. It sure is cool what you all have accomplished!! Thank you fir sharing the story
I'm having almost as much fun as you watching you have fun. by the way my experience with kayaks made of the same material as your Whaley boat, a heat gun will repair scratches and cuts. For more serious damages it can be plastic welded.
You should look down by the prop for the Trim tab. Most outboards have them, this can be adjusted so that when the boat is riding in the water it will keep the motor straight if it tends to fall to the same side all the time. Also a Hydrofoil will help with the bouncing. The Hydro foil will give the electric trim more purchase when you are adjusting it. They also say it helps with a lot more, I cannot verify that but I use one and it is a big help when trimming the motor for keeping the boat flat on the water at speed.
Been following your boat build for a few years now. My family and I stopped by over the weekend briefly,we live in the area and was admiring your boat (from a distance). Its even more impressive in person. We saw you in town and I was telling my wife and daughter about your channel and they wanted to see it.
You need a spacer bar at the bottom of both of the triangles where you attach the boat to the pulley. The way you have it Right now is like a clamping stress, as the boat bounces around the weight will pull the sides closed like a hotdog bun. I know you said you were going to implement some kind of underside support but it is something that will help now and even after you the supports in place.
That's actually one of my next task, but it's to get the boat higher out of the water to avoid storm waves. We routinely lift the boat with 500 pounds of passengers and gear. It's a tough boat. Well worth the money.
I run a 3.1 meter inflatable weighing 46kg with the two stroke Mercury 30hp. Goes like a scalded cat, near 40 knots in flat water. A good tip for steering damping is install a motorcycle steering damper on the outboard, get an adjustable one so you can tune it. Makes it a bit safer for inexperienced crew wanting to open the thing up and getting a tank slapper. Greetings from a boat in New Zealand.....
Effective April 1, 2021, the new law requires a vessel operator to use either a helm or outboard lanyard or wireless ECOS on certain vessels less than 26 feet when traveling on plane or above displacement speed.
@@Chris-ho6uf HA! Love that! Got one on my main engine that I need to wire up. And yes I am a FOOL, just like everyone else. My magical power is that I know it and I'm good with it. : ) It's the poor slobs that can't embrace their failure that are slaves to public opinion.
@@SVSeeker it is yes but remember the boat turns into a raging a hole if you fall out without, where it will spin in circles continually striking the person that fell out until it runs out of fuel,
@@vxnova1 True, I have seen this happen twice. Both times the boat kept circling until it hit something like a boat or dock. Luckily both times the operator was able to get away with no major injuries. An unexpected wave or boat wake can do it even to smart and non-inebriated folks.
I don't know if you know or not but if you put a small set of wings on the cavitation plate 'Hydrofoil' it gets on he plane easier and stays on the plane at lower Revs
the grease zerks are on the friction plate to grease the push rod for cable steering, you dont need to grease it since you are using the tiller. if you where using a steering wheel you wouldn't have the friction plate and just have the zerks
Adding my two cents if you use two spreader bars you can raise the tender up higher and it will be safer. Again suggest safety chains. I'm sure you notice that d-ring is going to abrading that rope. Of course you still have to haul the tender up against the stern with bumpers. You don't want to lose that nice tender in a storm. Thanks so much for the awesome content.
did he check the oil level once he realized that he had not added any? did he add oil and how much did it take, etc? Probably some damage to the engine that will shorten its life (and void the warranty). I would run a compression test and a cylinder leak test to see what the numbers look like. Put that on the "don't do it again list"
@@SVSeeker as i have stated in a comment below, my race engines and vintage cars are primed to 50 psi after a rebuild or an extended layover before any engine component slides or rotates. if you are waiting up to 30 seconds, well .... that is a very long time. be nice to your engine. it may save your life someday
Thanks for the review! In the process of buying a 455r with a 50hp yamaha, but was going with the console. Do you still prefer a tiller? I'm relatively new to boating as of last year. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks again!!
The only complaint I have is that the forward floor is too soft. It bows down about 3/4” when a heavy person steps in the center. And and can scuff it up by hitting rocks and letting it ride against pilings, so if you want both that stays pretty looking, this may not be it. But as a work boat I love it. ruclips.net/video/mxDrNyCk04E/видео.html
You've located the local "Meat & Stuff". Ron Swanson would be proud. Perhaps you can drill a hole through the 6mm bolts, drill out and tap the appropriate size hole in just the head of the bolt, and install a zerk. Or, make up a set of bolts with a little extra thickness in the head to do the same.
That should be a great fishing setup! I assume they had it in mind when designing that boat! Especially with that motor! I hope someone takes advantage of that boat and does some fishing on it!
Adjust the engine trim to get the bow down. Some boats I use plastic collapsible water jugs for weight up front when alone and empty them when I have passengers.
As a career marine repair tech, I suggest aluminum props in place of stainless. I have seen on many occasion where an aluminum prop wads itself up apologetically when you try digging a ditch underwater. A stainless prop, on the other hand will hold strong and transfers all the shock energy into the motors drive system. Seen many bent output shafts and a few just clean snapped off as a result. I've even seen the case on a lower end split clean in half due to a stainless propeller rock strike! Aluminum props are cheap, engine parts are not. Just carry a spare, a wrench, and get familiar with changing it from in the boat. Just in case💪
Hi try trimming the engine up .. the engine cowl should be Horizontal to the horizon when the boat comes up on the plain.. Looks like you have it trimmed fully down keping the nose high in the water when under power .. Hope this helps
You can adjust the trim to keep it from porpoising with low weight in the bow, my 16 foot inboard v hull does the same. Also if youre going boating in shallow rivers or lakes Id consider popping the aluminum prop on, if it strikes a rock itll deform way easier than SS and not transmit all that shock force to the gears. Gear sets are pretty spendy so losing 3-5% of your top speed is cheap insurance.
Take a piece of PVC pipe about 2.5 ft it need an inside diameter the same as the end of the tiller. Make 4 cuts lengthways so you can push the PVC over the tiller. Secure the PVC with a stainless steel hose clamp. I then inserted an old oak broom handle in the end and secured it with some 5200. This will allow you to move forward a but and also stand up. Those fins that fit on the lower engine wings will help you to plane faster. The broom handle reduces the diameter of the tiller so it's more confortable. Have fun always.
I haven't followed you for very long, but I have to say this journey of yours is fascinating! I just wish I had the resources to do something like this! Since I don't, I'll enjoy it through you.
When I worked in AK "blue steel" rope was the go to. Very tough. Low stretch. Abrasion resistant. Lol in the 10 years since I've left I've dreamed of someday buying myself a spool.
I know that it’s got a walk through bow but couldn’t you make a bat that bolts to the whaly boat then you can lift it all the way up and make locking mechanisms to lock it into place.
Look into a Tiny Tach. Easy to hook up and can fix to the tiller arm. That way you can keep track of hours for maintenance easily AND know if your prop is even close to correct as far as WOT rpm. And please wear your kill switch lanyard or we can’t be friends.
@@SVSeeker You laugh it off but you're old enough to have seen people get ripped up by props when they don't wear their lanyards and are cast into the water by a storm. My favorite (sarcasm) is when they ride up on party barges and things full of people too drunk or stupid to dive out of the way when they see it coming.
@@hithere7382 Yes Mother. And I remember you telling me about the shredder on the tractor and the guy they picked up in rubber bags. We’ll be careful Mom. Don’t miss your hair appointment.
What!? No oars? Oars are way better than paddles, then again I don't see oar locks on the tender either. Oh and FYI don't forget to attach the outboard kill switch to you, when operating, at sea.
Do you have any idea what kind of damage you did to that engine starting with no oil whatsoever in it? did you check the oil level once you realized that you had not added any? did you add oil and how much did it take, etc? Probably some damage to the engine that will shorten its life (and void the warranty). I would run a compression test and a cylinder leak test to see what the numbers look like. Put that on the "don't do it again list"
That was a baby stroller wheel…lol. It’s a shame all the littering that goes on. All the garbage on the banks. Some places are starting to look like the waterways in India. Love your setup with the whaler and Yamaha. Perfect combo. Plan on going whaler when my zodiac wears out. Could you spray a nice looking patch of bed liner paint on the bow step to keep from wearing holes into it? Love your vids and even tho I live on a sailboat myself I learn something new with your vids. May you have fair winds in your travels
I would fabricate a 1/8" sheet metal cover for those lifting points to take the stress off of the plastic. You should be able to bend something up and weld where have to. Once that is made your lifting shackles should go thru the plastic like now and the metal cover. In fastening the metal I would use a combination of adhesive and screws or rivets. That combination of glue and mechanical is hard to beat. For that boat also they make a longer tiller handle where you could sit further up and plane the boat out.
What about bars that would lay across the Whaly, and pin to those holes where you mention putting the shackles? Your straps could attach directly to them and the bars could pin to the transom in the raised position to keep the Whaly from swinging.
I,m a professional now retired, --- USE THE KILL CORD ---
Put a loop in the end and slip it on your wrist.
If you get knocked out of the boat the rotation of the crank and engine will put it hard over, and it will come around and get you.
As so many youtubers you forgot the first instruction in your outboard manual.
Use the red kill switch cord, it is a life saver.
Doug, I love your project and your attitude to life. Please, Please wear the kill switch cord when driving, especially if you are alone. If you fall out you can guarantee the Whaly will come right round and back at you. I have seen the injuries and I know of some deaths, here in OZ. Stay safe mate, so we can continue to enjoy and follow your journey.
Make a spreader bar for the front and back. Will eliminate height issue and forces from pulling inward. The tight angle increases the load tremendously. It really needs bow thrusters 👀
☝️
exactly. Just a low little gambrel at each end which would put the hoist webbing within a foot of the boat.
That would get it high enough above the transom to swing out a pair of arms for it to set on and then lower it back down.
No need to cut sliding rods into the boat.
Totaly agree !
My thoughts exactly.
Probably will tilt alot on rough seas, which is difficult incase of emergency.
I'm sure someone else has probably mentioned this, it looks like the Whaly is light in the bow when on a plane with just one person on board. With passengers or cargo it's probably not too much of an issue, but you might want to look into getting a set of hydrofoil fins to go on the outboard. Keeping the bow down will help immensely with rough weather handling, it's less likely to get picked up by the wind, plus it gives you a last line of defense against lines in the water, they've saved my rear more than once with crab pots in the Chesapeake.
Whale fin for whally boat
That will make a huge difference.
☝️
👍 yes install a Doel-Fin on the outboard motor, that is a must.
And just moved fuel tank to the front, would be my first course of action.
Hey Dough, I had the same problem needing a counterweight in front of my boat. I found the Hydrofoil 400 SE solving my problem on my 60hp Yamaha. Front down and very early starting to plane! 100 € invested at german amaz….👍 Works great!
303 aerospace Uv protectant is what we coat our outdoor plastic furniture and kayaks.
Plastic cold flows so you will always have trouble with those lift holes and you've got the weight of that 40 hp outboard. Use two straps under the dingy with a longitudinal spreader. Lift with the strap and use the holes to tie the dingy off against bow and stern movement.
Cool little boat. I’m thinking ultimately your probably going to rig a under hull strap sling for extended davit stays and in transit. Unfortunately I don’t see the roto plastic holding up at the 4 solo hoist points just due to point loading on the small area the bridle puts most of its load. The opening bow door is brilliant.
And it's most likely going to fail while underway in rough seas, at night and in heavy rain.
That front drop opening on the Whaly can storm the beach at Normandy.
I grew up in a small town in Fl on the Gulf coast. When I turned 16 (and might've done it 1 or 2 times b4, don't tell anyone ;-). I'd take my little 14' flat bottom aluminum boat with an old 18hp Evinrude out, put it in the fresh water and in 15 minutes be out in the Gulf fishing... This was back in the late 70's & early 80's b4 the manatees became a thing and all the rivers had idle speed limits. We used to call the manatees speed bumps!! Never had trash like that down there, but I bet thats changed too. I miss the good old days... Safe travels sir!!!
Some of that nylon strap and a couple of spreader bars to use as cradles would relieve any stress from those hard points that WILL break eventually in hard seas. With spread cradles you can drive right into them from port or starboard and the dinghy can be pulled up and stored face against the stern if needed.
Doug, The shackle will help, but I highly recommend re-enforcing the entire shackle area with a custom Stainless shackle support. You can actually screw into the HDPE or Rivnut into the HDPE of the boat. This will apply stress to multiple areas and reduce spot loading. Besides, it would make for a great video! Also a custom stainless spreader bar on the front and back shackle points would reduce the load as well.
Exactly, a spreader bar is safest way to go.
Second on the spreader, connect right to the shackles and gives plenty of height.
Love that boat.
Yes, no doubt the spreader bar will make for a better lifting arrangement in calm water but will have the potential to become a head knocker or to capsize the boat when trying to launch or recover in any sea condition other than dead calm.. Seeker with be pitching and rolling differently than the little boat and the spreader bar arrangement will require 4 connections to be released or made up before depending on the operation while being dragged along.. This will create a bad situation for the Coxswain. I don’t know if it is feasible but you should check out the FRC (Fast Rescue Craft) on merchant ship and offshore platforms (any vessel that uses Free Fall Lifeboats). This design uses a single point lifting bridle that requires just one connection to made. ruclips.net/video/N_REUOkgxyI/видео.html may provide some ideas.
You can also WELD on it. With a hot air welder.
@@2pi628 Yeap i was thinking that as well.
Man, I love that little boat. It was great to see you out on the water again. Notice you didn't get sea sick on the river.
Ha! It takes a bit more than that. : ) Heading back to sea next week for another sea sickness trail run. I got a bag stuffed with snake oils.
@@SVSeeker steel or plastic, your approch will be as unique as you are
@@SVSeeker Ginger chews. Failing that, tramadol. If you suffer from GERD reflux, add Pariet 10mg.
Check the height of the motor on the transom. Typically you want the anti-ventilation plate even with or slightly higher than the center rib of the boat. If the motor is too low it will can create excess bow lift. Also, if you can raise it 1 or 2 homes higher on the transom that will give your tiller more clearance.
Hey doug, that thing you guys found on the beach is a high voltage insulator, to support conductor on a pole. The bottom screws onto a steel pin and the groove is where the wire sits. Then it gets tied to the insulator with soft drawn alum or copper
For rigging, the forces on an attachment point for a rigging wire being off vertical is not a linear increase, it is closer to parabolic.
The forces on a point with the wire at vertical are incredibly high with a sling that is off angle more than 45 degrees.
In rigging the general rule is no more than 30 degrees, especially with something that will see continuous loading like your tender.
The solution to this is to use a spreader bar to spread the rope/wires out with a shallow angle and let that take a compression load instead of your attachment points being under tension.
Yeah, I think we learned that on swing sets, but they have likely removed those from all schools. : )
That was a plastic high voltage insulator that would screw onto a cross arm insulator pin, on a power pole. That one was in bad shape, they're usually all smooth and light gray. The high voltage conductor would lay in the grove on the top and get tied down with aluminum wire.
Congrats SV Seeker on getting the Whaly ropes strighten out. Whaly Boat looks Great behind ur Boat.
You were wondering about the top end and bow rising……looks like the motor is too deep in the water……motor cavitation plate should be 1” above the keel (or bottom of boat)……if motor is to deep it will create bow rise due to cantilever pressure of the thrust…..raising the motor will reduce the cantilever amount
Hi SV SEEKER,
I'm watching all your videos.
In reference to your red tender,
to avoid damaging the bow,
crawling on the water's edge,
you can apply an aluminum foil,
and use rivets together with sikaflex to fix it.
I'm not even telling you that the aluminum foil could be customized. Too easy!
Very nice.
Soon.
Antonio
Use a spreader bar to hold the rope apart so the last bit to the whsley boat is straight.
True, though a shackle like he mentioned would be almost as good, and a lot lighter.
Get a SE Sport 300 hydrofoil for the outboard. It will allow you to trim the motor to help hold the bow down. It will improve the ride a lot.
You can use 303 marine protectant on your 455 insert aluminum sleeves to protect the Lifting points on your 455 . I love that boat.
Good to see a guy enjoying the fruits of his hard labor.
We boys love the toys! Doug your smile was worth whatever it cost you !
Doug make you an aluminum spreader bar for the whaly boat . Like they used to lift sealer. It will solve all your problems. Straight lift on Whaley's eyes. Will shorten your lift by taking the y of your bridle away.
Yeah, we're talking about something like that to get her up higher for transit.
Spreader bar perhaps, but is something heavy that will swing?
Doug was having so much fun with the Whaly - I think Seeker was jealous :-)
My opinion is that you use the aluminum prop first.... you mess up with the stainless steel and your going to trear out the lower end
Loved you smile while motoring along. A true sign of happiness.
That’s a pretty cool rig.
While you were talking about the planer boards it took me back in time to when I would use them for diving for lobster down the the FL Keys. It’s hands down the fastest why to the bottom.
All the Best
Tim
on your shakle for the tender lifting eyes.... make sure you add a bushing for the crossbolt to avoid material fatique & chafe !!
Dave playing with his newest toy. I love it!
There are horizontal hydra foil wings you can attach to the cavitation plate of the lower unit. They make an amazing difference to performance generally but in particular to planing at low speed and getting the bow down without having to have a gorilla up there. The foils lift the back end of the boat. Makes trim and tilt extremely effective as well at all speeds. I hope you read this. Absolute "must have" will increase your performance 1,000 percent.
That's a cool little boat . Like the design like an amphibious landing ship
If you put a dole fin on the cavitation plate it will help with the bouncing it gives the motor more force to lower the bow.
Doug, you might consider a hydrofoil stabilizer to help trim your boat, you wont need to add weight to your bow. they work great for smaller boats to keep the bows down like a set of trim tabs. Cheers Brian
shackles and a spreader bar so you lift straight up on the connection points of the Whaly. Also a shackle to connect directly to the spreader bar from the lifting davit. shortest possible connections that way.
Hauling the tender out of the water is one task. Securing it for under way is the next. The lift points need to be able to carry the load in sea conditions without damage. I suggest first using stainless tubing to span two sets of holes, plus threaded rod inside them. Cut your spreader bar to follow the upper gunwhale profile and hook them onto your SS lifting point bars. They need to be tensioned tight onto the hull, solid. Then winch up as you like. The spreader bars need to slid into steel brackets on your David’s, and lock the whole package tight for sea. Solid and simple. Love the work you men have done. Fair winds to you all. Edit…. This will eliminate your winching stop points, since the spreader bar will be a natural stop. A couple of captive through-bolts will secure the spreader bar to the davit brackets, so you can unload the winch too, once you are done lifting. The spreader bars are easily fashioned from timber 6x2, and easy to shape for the hull cutouts
Absolutely. The current system is going to result in the tender being lost, and probably under the worst conditions. (Rough seas, at night, in the cold, and in the rain.)
If you can try to change the trim on the engine to get the nose more pointing down. Once on a plane you can straighten it. If that doesnt work you could try putting the battery and fuel tank to the nose or installing a hydrofoil or trim tabs.
I'm pretty sure we had it pitched all the way down.
*Swing arm boat cradle*
Good idea! 👍
Whaly boats are great... I have a 500R; we had no 455s locally, so I took what I could get... Huge fun, but possibly less than your 455... I added a Permatrim fin to my motor - better for the hole shot when one person is aboard on what are light boats - they might be light but they are very tough.
Want one of these so bad! ❤️
They're not good, balance is the issue, nose diving once u have few ppl on board
Hi love your work, I live in Perth Western Australia. May I Suggest you put a stingray on your Yamaha outboard motor. A stingray is a attachment you put to the bottom of your motor that helps hold the front of your boat down. Making your boat run level of just one person in it
That shinny new engine cover is mighty tempting . To keep the bandits away find an old distressed cover and swap it out.
0utdoor carpet fastened with contact cement on the topsides protects against Tropical sun
Does the break in include 20 seconds of running it with no oil🤪🙈😘
Hi Doug,
Not sure if anyone notice thus but I noticed you adjusted the trim of the motor so it was all the way down.
This will help with getting it onto the plane but then it needs to be adjusted back up once you're there, this will then help push the bow down, which will reduce the "slapping"
Regards
I heard the big end knock and my alarm was going off long before the motor alarm squealed about the oil problem. Hopefully no permanent damage was done.
No, it had oil in it before, they just drain it for shipping. No engine has oil pressure for the first 15 second or so of running.
@@SVSeekernot true, my race engines and my vintage cars get the oil system primed to 50-psi before starting each season or after a rebuild, before any internal rotating or sliding surface ever moves
@@kaakeith3772 I do this with engines that sit a long time without being used too.
You can drill a hole straight through the bolts and drill a hole in the head of the bolt and thread it so you can put a grease nipple in the bolt. When it comes to regular maintenance make it easy or it wont get done.
Hi Doug, did you think of attaching the lifting points to the transom where the motor mounts as that will be a very strong place , for the bow I would loop under to that towing Eye. Nice looking dinghy and the small ones are reasonably priced
Cheers Warren
We may try that. Thanks
Looking great! I’m a bit nervous about how your landing craft boat is top mount secured. I’m afraid that in wavy conditions it might be subjected high stress conditions and may become damaged or lost. I have no big boat knowledge aside from RUclips but I do like the yacht walk-through videos and they always seem to put the laughing craft on top of the boat strap it down.
Yeah, that's why we're looking at getting her higher up and secured with a second system for transit.
@@SVSeeker super I figured their was more to the story. I ran across you all on RUclips years ago and somehow lost you all’s story until just about two mounts ago. It sure is cool what you all have accomplished!! Thank you fir sharing the story
I'm having almost as much fun as you watching you have fun. by the way my experience with kayaks made of the same material as your Whaley boat, a heat gun will repair scratches and cuts. For more serious damages it can be plastic welded.
When you are alone you can trim that motor up and hold the front down. But bringing a friend is fun also.
You should look down by the prop for the Trim tab. Most outboards have them, this can be adjusted so that when the boat is riding in the water it will keep the motor straight if it tends to fall to the same side all the time. Also a Hydrofoil will help with the bouncing. The Hydro foil will give the electric trim more purchase when you are adjusting it. They also say it helps with a lot more, I cannot verify that but I use one and it is a big help when trimming the motor for keeping the boat flat on the water at speed.
Been following your boat build for a few years now. My family and I stopped by over the weekend briefly,we live in the area and was admiring your boat (from a distance). Its even more impressive in person.
We saw you in town and I was telling my wife and daughter about your channel and they wanted to see it.
That Shucker jigamathang is awesome. But that guitar body is sweet, what kind of wood did you use? great vid playing with toy boat..
You need a spacer bar at the bottom of both of the triangles where you attach the boat to the pulley. The way you have it Right now is like a clamping stress, as the boat bounces around the weight will pull the sides closed like a hotdog bun. I know you said you were going to implement some kind of underside support but it is something that will help now and even after you the supports in place.
That's actually one of my next task, but it's to get the boat higher out of the water to avoid storm waves. We routinely lift the boat with 500 pounds of passengers and gear. It's a tough boat. Well worth the money.
I run a 3.1 meter inflatable weighing 46kg with the two stroke Mercury 30hp. Goes like a scalded cat, near 40 knots in flat water. A good tip for steering damping is install a motorcycle steering damper on the outboard, get an adjustable one so you can tune it. Makes it a bit safer for inexperienced crew wanting to open the thing up and getting a tank slapper. Greetings from a boat in New Zealand.....
Careful most manufacturers recommend not using above a 20hp on small inflatables
Effective April 1, 2021, the new law requires a vessel operator to use either a helm or outboard lanyard or wireless ECOS on certain vessels less than 26 feet when traveling on plane or above displacement speed.
It’s a great law for fools.
@@SVSeeker so.....a majority of the masses?
@@Chris-ho6uf HA! Love that! Got one on my main engine that I need to wire up. And yes I am a FOOL, just like everyone else. My magical power is that I know it and I'm good with it. : ) It's the poor slobs that can't embrace their failure that are slaves to public opinion.
@@SVSeeker it is yes but remember the boat turns into a raging a hole if you fall out without, where it will spin in circles continually striking the person that fell out until it runs out of fuel,
@@vxnova1 True, I have seen this happen twice. Both times the boat kept circling until it hit something like a boat or dock. Luckily both times the operator was able to get away with no major injuries. An unexpected wave or boat wake can do it even to smart and non-inebriated folks.
How about a spreader at the bow and aft. Then the winch web could connect to the spreader which should allow higher lift and spread the load.
Socket man made the video!!! How about fell out of my chair when I saw him. Thanks a lot man!! 22:32
He needs a socket dog now. : )
Looks like a fun little tender.
Looks like a lot of fun!
No oil, Doh!
I don't know if you know or not but if you put a small set of wings on the cavitation plate 'Hydrofoil' it gets on he plane easier and stays on the plane at lower Revs
the grease zerks are on the friction plate to grease the push rod for cable steering, you dont need to grease it since you are using the tiller. if you where using a steering wheel you wouldn't have the friction plate and just have the zerks
Adding my two cents if you use two spreader bars you can raise the tender up higher and it will be safer. Again suggest safety chains. I'm sure you notice that d-ring is going to abrading that rope. Of course you still have to haul the tender up against the stern with bumpers. You don't want to lose that nice tender in a storm. Thanks so much for the awesome content.
Yeah we're talking about bars to get it up higher for transit.
@@SVSeeker Yeah a bit higher and it's easier to load just in case.
Hi could you use the air bladder under the floor panel change it to a fuel bladder? it would keep the weight lower and carry more. Steve from the UK
When running in the ocean, you could turn it around when hoisting so its easier to use the ramp to get the flush muff on.
i wouldn't worry too much about following "the break in procedure", you started it and ran without oil
did he check the oil level once he realized that he had not added any? did he add oil and how much did it take, etc?
Probably some damage to the engine that will shorten its life (and void the warranty). I would run a compression test and a cylinder leak test to see what the numbers look like.
Put that on the "don't do it again list"
Not to worry. No engine has oil pressure for the first 15 to 30 seconds.
Bull Shit. Start any engine and see how long it takes to build pressure.
@@SVSeeker as i have stated in a comment below, my race engines and vintage cars are primed to 50 psi after a rebuild or an extended layover before any engine component slides or rotates. if you are waiting up to 30 seconds, well .... that is a very long time. be nice to your engine. it may save your life someday
@@kaakeith3772 Do you really think they don't run the engine before shipping it?
Thanks for the review! In the process of buying a 455r with a 50hp yamaha, but was going with the console. Do you still prefer a tiller? I'm relatively new to boating as of last year. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks again!!
Yes, but I often load it down with materials and people. A console takes up too much space for my needs.
The only complaint I have is that the forward floor is too soft. It bows down about 3/4” when a heavy person steps in the center. And and can scuff it up by hitting rocks and letting it ride against pilings, so if you want both that stays pretty looking, this may not be it. But as a work boat I love it.
ruclips.net/video/mxDrNyCk04E/видео.html
I sure like the bow on that tender. Makes loading it easy. Big fish, a deer, a skid.
...a diver, someone who did not hold on. : )
@@SVSeeker No kidding. Most don't realise that if you go overboard it take a long time to 'circle back'.
Long spreader bars can be attached to stern in the down position
You've located the local "Meat & Stuff". Ron Swanson would be proud. Perhaps you can drill a hole through the 6mm bolts, drill out and tap the appropriate size hole in just the head of the bolt, and install a zerk. Or, make up a set of bolts with a little extra thickness in the head to do the same.
That should be a great fishing setup! I assume they had it in mind when designing that boat! Especially with that motor! I hope someone takes advantage of that boat and does some fishing on it!
You might be able to move the stop rod on the tilt mechanism to tuck the motor down more.
I'll give that another look.
Adjust the engine trim to get the bow down. Some boats I use plastic collapsible water jugs for weight up front when alone and empty them when I have passengers.
Having a foil on the motor helps a lot on that setup. At least a big difference on my 500r with 60hp. Love the Whaly!
As a career marine repair tech, I suggest aluminum props in place of stainless. I have seen on many occasion where an aluminum prop wads itself up apologetically when you try digging a ditch underwater. A stainless prop, on the other hand will hold strong and transfers all the shock energy into the motors drive system. Seen many bent output shafts and a few just clean snapped off as a result. I've even seen the case on a lower end split clean in half due to a stainless propeller rock strike! Aluminum props are cheap, engine parts are not. Just carry a spare, a wrench, and get familiar with changing it from in the boat. Just in case💪
I was surprised not to see a shear pin in there. Why did they do away with those?
@@SVSeeker torque I suppose. 🤔
I’m a lineman for Ohio. The first thing you found was a insulator for powerlines⚡️
Ah. So you dropped it. : )
Your tender has nearly twice the power of my whole sailboat!
We'll make use of it.
That 50 horsepower should make that thing freakin scoot! Can’t wait until break in is done!
Hi try trimming the engine up .. the engine cowl should be Horizontal to the horizon when the boat comes up on the plain.. Looks like you have it trimmed fully down keping the nose high in the water when under power .. Hope this helps
You can adjust the trim to keep it from porpoising with low weight in the bow, my 16 foot inboard v hull does the same. Also if youre going boating in shallow rivers or lakes Id consider popping the aluminum prop on, if it strikes a rock itll deform way easier than SS and not transmit all that shock force to the gears. Gear sets are pretty spendy so losing 3-5% of your top speed is cheap insurance.
You forgot engine oil! Did you remember lower unit lube?
They don’t empty that for shipping.
Take a piece of PVC pipe about 2.5 ft it need an inside diameter the same as the end of the tiller. Make 4 cuts lengthways so you can push the PVC over the tiller. Secure the PVC with a stainless steel hose clamp. I then inserted an old oak broom handle in the end and secured it with some 5200. This will allow you to move forward a but and also stand up. Those fins that fit on the lower engine wings will help you to plane faster. The broom handle reduces the diameter of the tiller so it's more confortable. Have fun always.
Like a kid at Christmas :) Well done!
I haven't followed you for very long, but I have to say this journey of yours is fascinating! I just wish I had the resources to do something like this! Since I don't, I'll enjoy it through you.
When I worked in AK "blue steel" rope was the go to. Very tough. Low stretch. Abrasion resistant. Lol in the 10 years since I've left I've dreamed of someday buying myself a spool.
Gas tank in the front has a double effect by moving center of gravity forward without adding weight.
Just use a couple of light weight spreader bars for the tender much kinder to the boat simple and easy
A idea to stop the whaly from Porpoising would be to install hydrofoil on the motor it will help with hole shot and stability at speed
Cheers Tom
I know that it’s got a walk through bow but couldn’t you make a bat that bolts to the whaly boat then you can lift it all the way up and make locking mechanisms to lock it into place.
Look into a Tiny Tach. Easy to hook up and can fix to the tiller arm. That way you can keep track of hours for maintenance easily AND know if your prop is even close to correct as far as WOT rpm. And please wear your kill switch lanyard or we can’t be friends.
Yes Mother
@@SVSeeker You laugh it off but you're old enough to have seen people get ripped up by props when they don't wear their lanyards and are cast into the water by a storm. My favorite (sarcasm) is when they ride up on party barges and things full of people too drunk or stupid to dive out of the way when they see it coming.
@@hithere7382 Yes Mother. And I remember you telling me about the shredder on the tractor and the guy they picked up in rubber bags. We’ll be careful Mom. Don’t miss your hair appointment.
@@SVSeeker and eat your veggies !
What!? No oars? Oars are way better than paddles, then again I don't see oar locks on the tender either. Oh and FYI don't forget to attach the outboard kill switch to you, when operating, at sea.
Do you have any idea what kind of damage you did to that engine starting with no oil whatsoever in it? did you check the oil level once you realized that you had not added any? did you add oil and how much did it take, etc?
Probably some damage to the engine that will shorten its life (and void the warranty). I would run a compression test and a cylinder leak test to see what the numbers look like.
Put that on the "don't do it again list"
Yes. Next to none. No engine has oil pressure for the fist 15 to 30 seconds after startup, so adjust your panic indicator.
That was a stroller wheel. The cog is where the wheel lock engages
That was a baby stroller wheel…lol. It’s a shame all the littering that goes on. All the garbage on the banks. Some places are starting to look like the waterways in India. Love your setup with the whaler and Yamaha. Perfect combo. Plan on going whaler when my zodiac wears out. Could you spray a nice looking patch of bed liner paint on the bow step to keep from wearing holes into it? Love your vids and even tho I live on a sailboat myself I learn something new with your vids. May you have fair winds in your travels
I would fabricate a 1/8" sheet metal cover for those lifting points to take the stress off of the plastic. You should be able to bend something up and weld where have to. Once that is made your lifting shackles should go thru the plastic like now and the metal cover. In fastening the metal I would use a combination of adhesive and screws or rivets. That combination of glue and mechanical is hard to beat.
For that boat also they make a longer tiller handle where you could sit further up and plane the boat out.
What about bars that would lay across the Whaly, and pin to those holes where you mention putting the shackles? Your straps could attach directly to them and the bars could pin to the transom in the raised position to keep the Whaly from swinging.
Yeah, something like that.