Note: I cleaned the underside of those edge connectors too ;) Spectrum +3 Audio Fix - spectrumforeveryone.com/technical/fixing-audio-distortion-spectrum-3/ Ian Gledhill's original guide - zxnet.co.uk/spectrum/+3sound/ FDD power connector is molex I think (NOT a JST). That small motorolla part is related to the modulator output.
And by that I don’t mean more careful than you were in the video, but more careful with Acetone in general because as you know it can ruin things easily.
I use the same disc cleaning method on a c64 1541 drive that I modded for this purpose, It was already faulty (always spinning), I removed the head for easy access.
great video, really loving watching you fix these old computers that i loved when i was growing up, and still love (and own) today. Even though the +3 isn't really a Sinclair machine (and some people hate it because of that) i think it's a great machine to own and use today. i bought a divide 2k11 for it but it won't fit in properly, as it's not tall enough to clear the height of the +3 because it hits the button of the interface, this stops it from seating properly, bizarrely it has worked for a while when flat on a desk, but recently i moved it from there and now it won't work at all, so i have ordered a 2K14 revised, and i am hopeful this will work. quick question... ever since i got my +3 the disc drive LED is ALWAYS on. i've never tested it as i don't have a disk to try but wondered if it's a simple fix? regards, mrP PS. i do use it with a SCART RGB cable on an LCD now and it looks lovely (this is why i moved the speccy) new TV doesn't have SCART so i used one of those cheap HDMI / SCART adapters, and although it works really well on my A1200, the +3, is erm... AWFUL :(
Thanks for the video, I'll be doing the same. However theres no audio from the RF modulator and sounds like snow despite showing a picture. Is this a modulator problem?
I would start by doing all of the mods with resistors. Chances are the sound will be OK at the end. I almost had no sound on this one until I did the sound resistor modifications.
@@GadgetUK164 Somehow the problem seems to have gone away. The modulator can was missing its top and I replaced it so not sure if that fixed it. The ferrite modulator tuning slug then broke, so I may do a composite mod. Next I will be doing the sound mod and replacing those resistors. Someone had been in there before and the floppy drive write protect sensor pin is missing so lll have to make a new one.
Great vid, Chris. I have a question for you, I have just bought one of these. Did these always have that bad of a picture via rf? Mine is like the one in the video. I thought my +2b was bad, but this is awful. Surely they never left the shop like this? Is there a way to improve rf out? My grey +2 is far better than this. Thanks and look forward to more of your great videos
Part of the problem is these days is stuff overlaps on the channels we used (I think). Generally so much stuff in the airways they didn't expect when designing it. I would just avoid RF - I always struggle to get a half decent RF picture no matter which system and which TV I use. It could also be aged capacitors in the modulator too, or a lower quality modulator than the previous model.
It's perhaps that motor tension point (that metal flap that holds the bar). I am sure I mentioned it in this video, if not - check the CPC6128 video I did.
@@GadgetUK164 I like it a lot because it seems to have a silicone tip (or something of that nature - very soft but thermally stable). I could see immediately that it's a great improvement over the pumps I've used so far. I found "Engineer SS-02" - is that the one you have?
yaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay...its the same but different.. Not even got to the drive on my 6128.... although it does have the plate on the back of the mech..... :) still trying to get my ay chip.. the one from france I had to cancell.... they were still blaming brexit and HMRC... Sourced another from china... :( no idea when will get that.. define my keys I wish... Thanks for the extra advice... on these amstrads..sorry spekkys... N x
Why does all that work need to be done to get good audio. I thought this had a sound out on the back left. Why would it sound so bad with factory components?
They messed up the board at design. The audio was bad like this from new on the +3! And the audio coming out on the connector at the back sounded just the same (bad).
Are the dimensions of the drive belt a Top Ultra type of secret, or something? I searched the web and simply can not find it!! Could you, or someone else tell the dimensions of that belt, please?
Quote from CPC Wiki "The correct belt is 3mm wide, 0.6mm thick and has a total length (outer circumference) of 230mm (often also advertised as 115mm)." It's the same belt as Amstrad CPC - so those dimensions above should be fine!
Note: I cleaned the underside of those edge connectors too ;)
Spectrum +3 Audio Fix - spectrumforeveryone.com/technical/fixing-audio-distortion-spectrum-3/
Ian Gledhill's original guide - zxnet.co.uk/spectrum/+3sound/
FDD power connector is molex I think (NOT a JST). That small motorolla part is related to the modulator output.
Well, I managed to miss the premier, but what a treat to have another GadgetUK video to enjoy.
I’ve refurbished many of these 3” drives and that was exactly how I do it :)
pencil eraser works great on those contacts too.
I have always used a rubber (pencil eraser) to clean the edge connectors as it works well without abrasion. Fiber glass pens will cause that.
Nice video mate. I can confirm acetone is the way to go but obviously be a bit more careful. The belts stick like mad to the brass capstan.
And by that I don’t mean more careful than you were in the video, but more careful with Acetone in general because as you know it can ruin things easily.
I use the same disc cleaning method on a c64 1541 drive that I modded for this purpose, It was already faulty (always spinning), I removed the head for easy access.
That audio mod is unreal... the difference between the garbled output before and the fixed audio afterward is absolutely night and day!
Very cool to see the fix to the disk, I was sure it would snap, heh. Great video, thanks for posting!
great video mate nice drink holder
Thanks 👍 Drink holder?
great video, really loving watching you fix these old computers that i loved when i was growing up, and still love (and own) today. Even though the +3
isn't really a Sinclair machine (and some people hate it because of that) i think it's a great machine to own and use today.
i bought a divide 2k11 for it but it won't fit in properly, as it's not tall enough to clear the height of the +3 because it hits the button of the interface, this stops it from seating properly, bizarrely it has worked for a while when flat on a desk, but recently i moved it from there and now it won't work at all, so i have ordered a 2K14 revised, and i am hopeful this will work.
quick question... ever since i got my +3 the disc drive LED is ALWAYS on. i've never tested it as i don't have a disk to try but wondered if it's a simple fix?
regards,
mrP
PS. i do use it with a SCART RGB cable on an LCD now and it looks lovely (this is why i moved the speccy) new TV doesn't have SCART so i used one of those cheap HDMI / SCART adapters, and although it works really well on my A1200, the +3, is erm... AWFUL :(
Repairing floppy disks, now you're just showing off. 🤣😁👍
LOL =D
Thanks for the video, I'll be doing the same. However theres no audio from the RF modulator and sounds like snow despite showing a picture. Is this a modulator problem?
I would start by doing all of the mods with resistors. Chances are the sound will be OK at the end. I almost had no sound on this one until I did the sound resistor modifications.
@@GadgetUK164 Somehow the problem seems to have gone away. The modulator can was missing its top and I replaced it so not sure if that fixed it. The ferrite modulator tuning slug then broke, so I may do a composite mod. Next I will be doing the sound mod and replacing those resistors. Someone had been in there before and the floppy drive write protect sensor pin is missing so lll have to make a new one.
Great vid, Chris. I have a question for you, I have just bought one of these. Did these always have that bad of a picture via rf? Mine is like the one in the video. I thought my +2b was bad, but this is awful. Surely they never left the shop like this? Is there a way to improve rf out? My grey +2 is far better than this. Thanks and look forward to more of your great videos
Part of the problem is these days is stuff overlaps on the channels we used (I think). Generally so much stuff in the airways they didn't expect when designing it. I would just avoid RF - I always struggle to get a half decent RF picture no matter which system and which TV I use. It could also be aged capacitors in the modulator too, or a lower quality modulator than the previous model.
cool vid my drive needs doing thanks
No problem 👍
I would'mt be suprised if Amstad knobbled the +3 RF and Audio during the +2A re-design stage to sell more CPC's.
Hi. Great video! Where would you order your resistors from?
For these I just hit eBay, it was quick and easy - but slightly more expensive!
@@GadgetUK164 TR5 eerm it thought it was a Sinclair lol :):)
I've just replaced the belt but the drive isn't reading disks, typing CAT into basic results in "drive not ready" any ideas? Thanks!
It's perhaps that motor tension point (that metal flap that holds the bar). I am sure I mentioned it in this video, if not - check the CPC6128 video I did.
Thanks for a very good video :)
Glad you liked it!
As ever Chris, dogged determination to fix that disk. The drive was pretty fiddly as well.
What is the brand and model of that desoldering pump?
It's an Engineer desolder pump - available on Amazon. Not sure on the model though as the print has worn off now =/
@@GadgetUK164 I like it a lot because it seems to have a silicone tip (or something of that nature - very soft but thermally stable). I could see immediately that it's a great improvement over the pumps I've used so far. I found "Engineer SS-02" - is that the one you have?
yaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay...its the same but different..
Not even got to the drive on my 6128.... although it does have the plate on the back of the mech..... :)
still trying to get my ay chip.. the one from france I had to cancell.... they were still blaming brexit and HMRC...
Sourced another from china... :( no idea when will get that..
define my keys I wish...
Thanks for the extra advice... on these amstrads..sorry spekkys...
N x
Why does all that work need to be done to get good audio. I thought this had a sound out on the back left. Why would it sound so bad with factory components?
They messed up the board at design. The audio was bad like this from new on the +3! And the audio coming out on the connector at the back sounded just the same (bad).
Are the dimensions of the drive belt a Top Ultra type of secret, or something?
I searched the web and simply can not find it!!
Could you, or someone else tell the dimensions of that belt, please?
Quote from CPC Wiki "The correct belt is 3mm wide, 0.6mm thick and has a total length (outer circumference) of 230mm (often also advertised as 115mm)."
It's the same belt as Amstrad CPC - so those dimensions above should be fine!
@@GadgetUK164Ta! Ta! Ta! Super ta!! 😂
That RF output is fairly bad even for RF. Is there an issue with the Modulator or is this model just really poor? 😀
I find most modulators behave that way on this TV tbh! I wonder if its due to digital TV transmitting on the frequencies these modulators used?!?
It should be short and sweet, he says.
LOL =D
What about a HDMI mod for the SINCLAIR ZX SPECTRUM +3
Argh! RF!...you barbarian!
🤣
I bet you go through boxes and boxes of cotton buds 😊
Funny, "Hopefully a short video" Checks length 57 mins. You need to edit your intros. LOL Comment made literally at 00:00:25
It's an ongoing problem lol - I start by saying "probably only a short video" - hours and days then pass by....
@@GadgetUK164 Loving the long videos,. (and the NSP intro)
lol. RF warning.
Haha :o)