454 Vortec intake gasket, injectors, and fuel pressure regulator replacement
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- Here is the website for setting your new/old distributor and it will go into detail about setting up the CMP offset retard.
General NOTES.
Just wanted to post a couple notes after a few weeks after installing everything. If you buy the same injectors I did or even the expensive Bosch ones, you may encounter some issues like I did.
First off. The truck ran great. About 50 miles of driving the truck threw a code. P0172 and P0175 which are bank 1 and 2 rich codes. After doing tons of research, checking fuel rail pressure and talking to Five0motorsports that sells the Bosch injectors, turns out my MAF sensor was bad. I also installed a 195 degree thermostat. I've driven 250 miles since and haven't thrown a code. I also now get a whopping 12.7 MPG with 285/75/16 mud tires going 70 MPH. And yes that was calculated by pencil and paper.
www.gmtruckcent...
Injectors I installed. Update. Do not buy these injectors. Please get the ones from FiveOmotorsports. I had to redo this job as the amazon injectors failed.
www.amazon.com...
Was a mechanic for 30 years and have done several of these. I have been driving a semi the last 7 and just bought another 3500hd right at a buck 45 and its due for a round in the trenches. Really appreciated the time you took to do this. I found it to be a great refresher of things to order ahead of time to make it go as smoothly as possible. Much appreciated. Thanks.
Dudes got almost the exact same milage as my rig, I'm about to do lifters. Got a bunch already disassembled figured I'd see if anyone else tackled the upper, glad ya did this video, much appreciated.
Wow! that was incredible! very well explained and great video footage. I am at the front door of this exact job with my 1996 chevy 3500 7.4 liter dually, I will be using your video as a tool to hopefully complete the job with as much success as you did, thanks again primal garage.
Thank you very much for your video!! I'm heading into this job very soon. I really appreciate people like you who take the time to share this information with others. I wish you well.
Very happy to watch this and subscribe it's a pleasure to watch a video where the maker showed the good bad and ugly of wrenching on a car. As a mechanic I feel you did a great job. Thanks for the content
This video helped me quite a bit had to remove my plenum and was nervous but I got the job done smoothly. Not a hard job as long as you are patient and keep track of everything
Video was helpful to me. I watched it a couple times before I dove into it. I just swapped mine this weekend with FiveO Bosch injectors.
Mike here...Where did you find your 5. O Bosch Injectors?and what did they run you $ ?
What you needed on this job was a good Buddy with lots of tools, like me. So many times as you were disassembling, I said I gotta tool for that, I gotta tool for that & that & that. This is not a project that you should have tackled by yourself. A couple of notes, you should have replaced every single one of your radiator & heater hoses, especially the little guy in front. It was screaming replace me, replace me. But for all I know, you did. Also every sensor underneath that plenum should have been tossed. As I write this, I’m only 45 minutes into the video. So much more goodness is left to come. One other thing, if you had meticulously marked your distributor inside & out as well as the intake manifold with a tungsten carbide scribe, there would have been no need for you to make sure that the number one piston was at TDC on the compression stroke. These are the little things that we learn after 50+ years of disassembling & reassembling. Now for the last hour thereabouts of this nice little drama. I hope the ending is spectacular. Cheers
One of the best 454 Videos I've seen!
99 Body style 2000 Chevy Silverado 3500 Crew Cab Long Bed 68,000 leak'n intake gasket. Got the plenum off so far. THANKZZZ FOR THE VIDEO
I've got the exact same problem with the exact same year and engine. I will study your work, sir. Thankyou for documenting.
rite2beararms good luck, everything has been going good since I’ve done the job
I’m getting my material list together to start this job in a week or so. Great job with the video. I just replaced my radiator, hoses and thermostat last weekend. Took me filling and dumping the new radiator 12 times before I got all the radiator stop leak out of the system from the last jack wagon that had it. First fill I used two bottles of rad cleaner and ran that for a long time. Thanks for the video.
good luck with the project. have fun!
No need to remove the distributor! Wow you did waaay more work than you needed to. I left my throttle body and EGR on the plenum. Made it a little heavier but way less work. And taking out the distributor is completely unnecessary unless you're replacing it. You can get a little 10mm ratcheting wrench back in there to get that little bolt out. Work smarter, not harder. Pay attention people: This is how you DON't do it.
Well done!
Thank you for the insight. I gotta do the same operation but it’s in a motor home.
This has helped me a lot. Thank You.
My man. Good video. I'm tackling it as I'm watching this
Hey I greatly appreciated this video! I will be doing this same job on my 99 GMC Suburban next weekend. In preparation for doing the job I was trying to get a parts list together and tools list and your video covered everything including recommending the oil sending unit and fuel pressure regulator with part numbers. This kind of video will save me a lot of time and a lot of trips to the store! I also appreciate the links for the distributor dial in. The one thing I may have missed was the torque specs on the intake. Once again, thanks for taking the time! You'd make a great auto shop instructor!
Dodge D100 glad you appreciate it! Couple things to note. Do not use a cheap distributor cap if you are replacing it. Use the AC Delco one. The torque specs came with the gasket kit. And are easily available with a google search. One more thing is the security feature that wouldn’t let the truck stay running. I covered that
Hope everything goes well for you!
@@primalgarage743 I just ordered the Five-0 injectors and got 10 % off as they had a sale for President's day and I ordered the entire AC Delco distributor so I should be good to go. I have had many of the suburban's and trucks of this vintage and never even knew about that security feature so I definitely appreciate that tip!
Dodge D100 good deal. In hindsight I wish I would have ordered the 5-0 injectors. Also. I would also go ahead and replace the short water hose that goes from top of water pump to the intake manifold. Mine swole up like a balloon recently and luckily I caught it leaking before it ruptured. Just take your old one and bring it to any auto parts store. They should be able to match it up.
@@primalgarage743 It's interesting you brought up that little hose. I was watching your video with the wife and I mentioned that I was surprised you didn't replace that thing since it was off the truck. I will definitely replace that thing and I'm just going to do upper and lower rad hoses and serpentine belt while I'm at it. Just want to have as much done as possible to minimize anything breaking on the road. The truck only has 73k miles on it but I tow a 39 ft toy hauler with six kids so I'd like it to be as trouble free as possible.
Dodge D100 yeah I simply overlooked it. Just curious, what is your gas mileage towing that camper? I have a 3800# travel trailer and going 70mph I was getting 8-10 mpg
Nice job I recently spent alot of time crawling around my engine bay I put a couple boards across and laid on them to get at the oil switch and the cap and rotor. Let me just say I feel your pain.
20:30 ish he says “If your already here for injectors or fuel pressure regulator, you should also go ahead and replace the intake manifold gasket.” I’m sitting here for the intake gasket thinking well I guess I’m doing the other stuff too!
When your in there might as well do it all!
I have a 97 k3500 7.4l. The FPR is a poorly made, unreliable pos in a ridiculously hard place to reach. Is there an aftermarket solution? I don't see why it has to vary the fuel pressure with manifold vacuum. What would happen if you put on a regulator that mantained a constant pressure, say 60 psi?
Excellent video. Thank you
I viewed your video 2 years ago to put new injectors in my K2500 with 7.4L. Unfortunately, I did not take your recommendation and replace the intake manifold gasket. I am pulling this engine apart again to resolve the issue. I have found several different part numbers for Fel-Pro gaskets (1212 and 95826) but I have seen mixed reviews on both gaskets. How has your Malhe gasket held up? If you still have the truck how many miles have you put on it? I have had good results from Bosch injectors for about 20k miles. This is a fantastic video! Good luck!
I live in Arizona that rain sounds so nice.
Well I hate to say that it's not true that you have to take the fuel rail off just to take the distributor off. I just done mines last week and didn't take the intake off to do it. Now mind you it was a tight spot but it can be done
Cool detailed video.... my 96 Chevy Dually 454 is surging so I guess I need to do this job asap
same
i was able to change the cap and rotor without takeing the planum all i did is take that braket on the back i need help tho on how to take the map senor in the front im starting to think i might have to take the planum off comment below if u have a suggestion on how to take the map sensor in the front with very to none clearance to twist off that bolt
Great video. This now confirms I'm selling my 7.4L.
Cort Gajefski aw man they ain’t that bad to work on. Cheap to work on too
It's a darn good engine though, mine's almost at 300K miles and has never needed anything but the intake gaskets replaced before... well and the water pump and serpentine belt but that's just routine maintenance. See how much money you will spend on maintaining a diesel engine for 300K miles or so and you might want your 7.4L engine back in the worst way friend..... :-\
Holy shit, that's great mileage for a big block.
Set Playback speed to 1.5
this was awesome dude...thank you!
First fpr I removed the coil pack and dist. Cap and had enough room to to get snap rings in and replace unit. 12 years later I had to do another and I pulled the upper plenum and did orings on injectors as well and it needed them badly. #7 completely blown out leaving varnish up the injector 98’ motor first time apart
Nice video, I need to do this, but I'm probably going get a shop to fo it. I don't have that much free time.
Very good video!
You can..... you can get to the sending unit without removing the intake..... it took 5 extensions and a few wobbles and a gator grip socket and a whole day, but it can be done, trust me.
Yeah still painful
Man thanks for this video it was big help
How can do freeze plugs on this truck, chevy 7.4 engine. Same engin as yours??
How do you disconnect the line from rail? The round piece in the center, as to take the whole metal line from the plastic rail?
i don't know if you said it in the video but the oil pump shaft slot has to be aligned with the gear tooth slot from the distributor to line the distributor right
Only changes distributor housing orientation.
48:45 vacuum hose for regulator is 5/32 - thanks
5 months later I found my reminder - haha
Interesting trick at the end of your video.... any idea what set off the Security system? I've had that happen just 1 time to me in the 20 years I've owned my GMC, it was the HAL sensor in the steering column it wasn't making good electrical contact where it is plugged-in and the computer couldn't sense my key... I ended up having to take the column apart and the ignition cylinder out to get to this little 3-pronged plug and unplug then re-plug it 3 or 4 times (to clean the contacts of light oxidation from years of not being moved ) then re-installed my ignition cylinder to test and it started the engine the Security light on my dash went out and it ran just fine... then spent 2 hours putting the column completely back together! Sure glad it happened under my carport at my home and not at some Walmart parking lot in the middle of the night! My key DOES have the chip in it (DESS system I think), and at least I now know the truck is basically impossible to start and drive off without my key so it's impossible for a thief to steal the truck (they have tried before, someone did their best to pry out my passenger's side door latch in a Walmart Parking Lot years ago.... turned out it's pretty hard to even break-into my truck though the door latch cost some $75).
The security feature went off again in my truck. I let the battery die and after trying everything from resetting to a new ignition barrel I decided to send my PCM off to a guy on eBay to completely remove the security feature. I paid $150 to never have to worry about getting stranded from a silly security feature.
Question, is there a screen under the oil pressure sensor on the 7.4 vortec? Appreciate your time and responses in posting your video, good Job! It's a miserable undertaking for sure. Just finished my 97 7.4 head gaskets. My reason for asking is it replaced the OPS and didn't check for a screen, and I now show low oil pressure than it should have, so this would be great information for me.
To be honest I have no idea. I just changed mine.
Thanks for answering, I'll keep digging. Funny, the same thing happened to me with the broken sensor when I was reassembling I luckily noticed it loose in the back of the engine before I was into it too deep. No idea when I broke it during the work, maybe tightening the fuel lines, I don't know, something to be aware of though, it's in such a handy place.
What is that sensor under the fuel line in back ?
Thank you for your time showing us this video! It helped me out a lot!
What are the torque pounds for the upper eight plenum bolts?
I believe the torque specs came with the gasket set.
20 hrs labor ! what did ya do climb in there with your blankie and pillow ?
Bruce Bruce HA, nooo just took my time and made sure to do everything right.
You did a fine job on the video...I have a 2000 K3500, 7.4 vortex...I'm going to change out my intake gaskets...leaking coolant to the outside of the block...
But I need to replace my injectors...
I couldn't find the Amazon link...
Could you forward it to me please..
Thanks Mike...
Update 11/05/2019. The cap and rotor that came on the distributor failed around 800 miles in. The symptoms happened very quickly. Driving and all of the sudden truck started surging. Immediately turned around and parked it at home. Went to start it the next day and it wouldn’t even fire. Replaced cap and rotor with the AC Delco version. Truck fired right up after installing. It’s a known issue for these cheap cap and rotors to fail.
I had the same issues. I see now the standard replacement distributor is all metal now from plastic. A month after I did the job.
I'm now having the passenger front valley slow coolant leak and have to do everything you did.
Was there a reason you chose the Mahle gaskets instead of Felpro? Did you notice a quality or construction difference? There seems to be alot of gasket failure right at the front passenger coolant passage where yours failed too.
What scanner did you use for cmp
"Taking a lot longer than I wanted to" :D When does that *not happen* ?
Dude I'm right in the middle of this right now. I am learning from you so thanks bro. This 454 is a dog compaired to my son's 95 l19 motor. I am hoping to get this bitch running right like it should.
Great video, I'm having the same issue you had when re-installing the distrinutor. Any suggestions?
thanks - very helpful
Where does the hose go too that hooks up to the fuel pressure regulator?
the lower intake on the back has a little vacuum port sticking out
Thx, this'll help alot!
I’ve done this a while ago and for some reason it will start misfiring under acceleration I don’t understand why.
The stuff I replaced.
1. Injectors same ones as yours.
2. Fuel pressure regulator.
3. Distributor cap and rotor.
4. Intake gaskets.
5. Spark plugs.
6. Spark plug wires.
7. Thermostat.
8. Temperature sensor.
9. All 4 O2 sensors.
10. Cam and crank correlation done.
That’s everything I did.
So I don’t know what the problem is and why it’s misfiring.
SuperChargedgaming which cap and rotor do you have installed? The one I installed in the video gave out 800 miles in. Truck wouldn’t even start. Started hesitating then died. I replaced it with an AC Delco cap and rotor and fired right up. Seemed to run better with the AC delco as well. It’s a known issue for cheap cap and rotors to fail because of the plastics used. Amazon has best price for the cap and rotor
David it was just an Oem one but all try ordering a better to see if that helps
SuperChargedgaming I paid $43 for ac delco cap and rotor. Not too bad to try it and see. If it still persist it could possibly be the injectors
David thank you all try that I’m just confused because you’d think with all the new stuff it would work better but I just don’t know
SuperChargedgaming what codes is it giving you?
Awesome video, Im getting a crank no start and i keep thinking is timing but Im pretty sure it's spot on now, When your security kicked on did you lose spark?
After this job it would run would 1 second then quit
@@David-eh8rl even after the security sequins?
The stock distributor was probably better than the $100 POS AutoZone replacement.
How many miles does your truck have?
Bruce Bruce 151,000 miles. Put on 1,300 miles since the job and all is well
hahahaha... yeah, i bought a 99 2500 suburban not running.. , sat 2 years with a full tank of fuel, get rid of 40 gallons of old gas.. new fuel pump and filter, ran awesome for 10 seconds, wont restart, pull manifold, new regulator, reinstall,, still no start, pill manifold again, old distributor had alot of play. new distributor, and wires and plugs, nope no start, starts on starter fluid, so looks like i get to pull it again to replace the injectors.. i can remove the manifold in under 30 mins now..
What was the torq spec and pattern for the lower intake
I don’t know off the top of my head. The specs came with the gasket set
great video. very helpful. youre an inspiration. do you have the part number for the injectors you removed? im trying to see if it matches mine to see if mine are original to the truck
I don’t. Sorry
Also how are the injectors holding up over time
They are holding up. Every now and again I’ll get a bank 1 and 2 fuel rich code. I’m thinking about replacing the injectors with the five o motor sports ones. At the time I just didn’t have the funds to spend $500 on a set
Very nice
Did your mileage improve after all of this?
Yes, highway I gained 2 mpg.
The fuel lines on that year are 16mm where your removing the fuel regulator etc not 3/4 or 5/8 ive done this job so many times and can do it in less than half a day why did it take you 20hrs + a nap lol anyways i got the same truck its a solid rig i had an issue where the fuel regulator leaked and had to replace it honestly i did not go as into detail as you did and got the same job accomplished
First time ever doing it, plus taking my time, plus getting the camera setup.
454 getting 12 mpg?
Sign me up.
Good video lots of detail I like that!
So what does that little vacuum line to the Fuel Pressure Regulator do anyway? Why does it need manifold vacuum to work correctly?
I've finally gotten my fuel rail out this afternoon, replaced the fuel pressure regulator and 4 injectors so far (going back with Bosch injectors)... seems easier than yours, though I am using 2 flat head screwdrivers in tandom on either side of the clips and squirting each clip post with just a little WD40 before starting it seems to help the clips to slide up and over the top of the posts. Knock on wood I can do the remaining 4 injectors later tonight without breaking anything and start going back together tomorrow! I'm not taking the lower intake off for gaskets, did that about 8 years ago and they are holding tight only went in this far because engine has been stalling at stop lights and running slobbering rich in general so decided it was time for fuel pressure regulator and replacing the fuel injectors while I'm at the fuel rail. Just saying... :=)
MShrader211 I’m not 100% sure what the vacuum hose is for. But it’s best to replace it with a new one. Glad the video has been helping you.
Change out the oil pressure sensor while your in there!
@@primalgarage743 Too late, I have no wheels to go to auto parts and have to start putting this thing back together before I starve to death here (MRE's for me tomorrow now, fridge is bare!)! It's already taken far longer than expected, I had a heck of a time finding some of the "gotcha" bolts that I couldn't see holding things together: The fuel rail retaining bolt that's under the distributor nearly ate my lunch for 2 days all by itself! What's not broke I cannot fix this time around. (ps. I started this a full 7 days ago.... it has not been pleasant even though I've had the intakes off once before to change leaking gaskets years ago!)
I got fuel rail back installed yesterday and reconnected to fuel lines and everything....my return fuel line is near to impossible to reconnect I swear, it's just slightly out of alignment and took 3 tries over 2 hours to finally get it to start threading correctly! Arghhh!
I've continued to ponder the little vacuum line that connects to the Fuel Pressure Regulator, and it occurs to me that it must be increasing the fuel pressure whenever you step on the accelerator pedal as that's when engine vacuum will drop suddenly AND the need for more fuel will increase just as suddenly. Also when starting the engine there's not hardly in vacuum either and the system only has limited fuel in it so it probably allows the regulator to increase the pressure being held against the injectors to help get the engine started. Just a good empirical guess, for any others that might be interested in this question.
So, about to get the distributor re-installed and get that plenum put back on today and see if it starts and runs any better! I am pissed that the injector vendor sent me 4 hole injectors and not the 7 hole injectors I had ordered (unfortunately I didn't look at them that closely before I started taking my engine apart or else I would have delayed this and sent these back!). Arghhhhh! :-(
I do the same thing but not start?
Well make sure you set your distributor correctly first. Then check to make sure your plug wires are correct. Then reset your security system on the truck
Well.... no joy here! It's all back together and triple-checked everything as I went along. Idles worse than before, now dies outright pulling out of my own driveway. Pick up when you step on the accelerator is MUCH better than before, but it won't shift up past 2nd gear now (it's an automatic, and after a short trip around the block I realized it was turning 2K rpm's but only going 30 mph.... that's new!). Idle is all over the place, STFT's are mostly in the positive 20's to low 30's.
So what am I missing here? Spark plugs shouldn't have gone bad just sitting while I worked on the injector rail and upper intake! I'm letting it cool now with the hood up, will look around and check all I can again as soon as it cools down. ps. No Engine Codes were thrown, and engine was running closed loop using the O2 sensors it said after about 2 minutes or runtime (I was watching it with a diagnostic app on my phone and dongle plugged into the lower dash port).
MShrader211 did you mess with the distributor at all?
Also. Try unplugging the negative terminal on the battery and turning headlight switch on for 30 minutes. That’ll reset your computer
What injectors did you buy? I have to ask but you made sure to plug in all of the injectors electrical plug right?
Make sure there are no major vacuum leaks (check with carb cleaner). Make sure all electric plugs are plugged in
@@primalgarage743 Well I had to remove it, then re-install it. I did not open the cap or anything, and I labeled the spark plug wires 1 thru 4 each side from the engine 1 to the firewall 4 with tape wrapped around them so I could hook them back up correctly. I'm guessing though that in the process of re-installing the distributor it may have turned the rotor a little, maybe too far for the automatic timing adjustment to handle? IDK.... going to research more this weekend and check everything again, and if nothing else turns up then I may have to try resetting the distributor rotor position (something I've never done on a computer controlled vehicle before, though I've done it on my old '78 Camaro and '75 jet boat engines).
Sir, thats a 3hr job the 1st time i did one. Not 20hrs.
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DUDE! look's like the vid has potential but I had already fallen asleep two times by 2:36 /1:31/:04 .Pick up the pace !
Bruce Bruce I agree but this is very detailed project with a lot going on.
I think it is worth taking a few minutes at the beginning of a 2 hour video to warn the unitiated that this may not be a project that you want to get started. Once you start, you have to finish and it is a big job with the motor in the truck.