@@BradAngove Hi Brad, you're definitely one of the bests. I think I might need your advice in the following matter. A month ago I purchased 3 spray cans from a nitrocellulose paint provider (primer, nitro colour and clear coat). The problem is that the colour he sent me wasn't the right one (I asked for some dakota red and the result was a kind of brown wood), so this provider is not reliable anymore. Taking into account that I don't have a paint pistol (very expensive in Argentina) I was thinking on keep on going with the spray cans, but this time with Rustoleum brand (I have the Zinsser 123 primer, Colonial Red Rustoleum 2X, and Rustoleum clear gloss lacquer). Any advice you could give on this? I made a little spray test with an old yellow Rustoleum spray can on a sanded piece of wood a week ago (no primer and no clear, just one hand of yellow) and I still get the finger nail marks when pressing the paint, as I remember in one of your videos... the paint have to pass the finger nail test ;) Sorry for the long comment, but any advice will be much appreciated!!! Thanks
Back at watching the old ones again. Hopefully I'll get a lot watched this weekend. I'm actually glad you haven't posted in a month. Spend time with family. 👍🇨🇦
talk about timing, just messaged you about 16 hrs ago and here you are with a new line of videos... awesome! i think i'm gonna go with the open grain and no filling when i stain my bass and go with a solid swamp ash. looking forward to the rest of your quite informational vids. cheers!
I want to paint my red Squier Strat to a solid white. I dont want the grain to show through so after I sand it I should use wood filler, wait a day, and then prime it? What time incriments should I wait between coats of filler and prime also how many coats? And then could i just do a coat of white, wait 10 mins, do another one and then wait a day? Or should i do three coats? Then I'd do three coats of gloss, waiting a day inbetween?
+Olivia Searcy If your squier is already red and doesn't show any grain, you don't need to wood fill. Just sand it a bit to scuff up the clear coat so that your new paint will stick. Then spray a coat of primer or two, wait a couple days for it to dry, and sand it smooth. Then apply a couple coats of white 10-15 minutes apart like you said, wait a day, scuff lightly, and do your three coats of clear 10-15 minutes apart.
3 года назад
I will do my first spray can paint on a strat body soon. Your videos, as always, are the best.
Subbed! Found your channel by looking for DIY guitar kit builds! I plan on doing one myself, no clue how to play one, but always wanted one ever since I were little. Now I'm nearly 30, it's about time. Great videos!
Thanks. I hope my videos will be helpful to you. Luckily it's a fairly simple instrument to learn if you're not concerned with really mastering it per se.
+Adam Bennett If I wanted to conceal the grain, part of the process would be to use a sanding sealer or primer. For this paint job I'm letting the basic grain pattern show through, so it's not an issue.
Can this method work with with a stain/laquer finish? I was thinking of doing a painted stripe across the guitar and leaving a natural looking finish for the rest. Can it be achieved with a whole bunch of painters tape and patience?
Certainly. You may want to have a look at my how to paint your guitar by hand tutorial as well if that's what you're aiming for. You can stain the guitar, seal it, and then tape it and apply your stripe. Then of course you will want to clear coat it.
Hey Brad thanks for all the helpful information. I painted a electric guitar with Krylon Shimmer Metallic spray paint (modified Alkaloid). The first coat came out good, but I wet sanded with 1200 sand paper and added a second coat. the second coat seems to have a couple of splotches. Not sure if it's the sanding or that maybe I forgot a spot or two on the second coat. Should I be wet sanding the paint or should I only be wet sanding the clear coat? Should I even wet sand it at all? How can I get rid of the splotches? Thank you
Guitarmage 007 i have a similar question. the way it looks like it goes primer, sand, primer, sand, paint till you have enough coats, clear coat and wet sand till it looks good. that seems to be the process.
I typically put on 3 coats without sanding between them when I do my colour coats. Metallics are notorious for splotching and striping because the flakes in them don't always go down evenly; particularly with spray paint. You may want to check out my video on how to get an even coat of paint with spray cans to see if that helps. Sanding metallics can mess with them a bit, so if you can get coverage within the redcoat window by putting down two coats, and then get a coat of clear on there in the same session, that usually works best.
Well I did it before the reply. 4 coats and wet sanded between each. The last wet sand I just used 2000 grit and did the last coat. Seems that each coat went on smoother. Now on to the back and sides!
I'm glad it's working out for you. Sanding in between coats with help you get a smooth finish even though it's often not necessary. If you're seeing success doing that on your metallics, then why stop now haha.
+Ed Martinez I’ve had a lot of practice, but it’s a relatively easy skill to pick up. I recommend you check out my video on how to get an even coat of paint with spray cans, and practice that technique a couple times if you’re having difficulty.
I am toying with the idea of taking all of the old Finnish off of my strat body what do you think about that? and I would like to use a better paint. any Ideas of a better paint? Thanks Brad for the post. c];-D
I just recently did a video on how to remove the paint from your guitar. In fact, it was the guitar body that I painted in this series haha. That's definitely an option. A better paint in what way? Do you know what paint is on there now?
Heating the cans can help them spray, especially if they are cold. Primer can be helpful to get a solid color for a base or help fill grain a little, but it’s not necessary for adhesion or anything like that.
Does the paint have to be high performance enamel. I used rustolem but it it was Universal Advanced Formula 2x ultra cover paint + primer in one flat black as main color. Then Painters Touch 2x ultra cover paint + primer in one Satin. Then Painters Touch 2x ultra cover gloss clear. I still need to wet sand. I also want to know if turtle wax polishing compound will work for the final polish becase most videos say to use liquid car polish, plus the instructions say to use the turtle wax rubbing compound first.
It definitely does not need to be high performance enamel. Acrylics, lacquer, polyurethanes, etc. should all work fine. I get to the sanding and polishing later in this series. It's a four part tutorial. Generally you would use the rubbing compound first and then move on to the polish. First you need to sand to essentially the highest grit you can manage though.
Hi, I'm going to spray a guitar the colours of a football kit for a friend.The two solid colours will be, claret,running through the centre,around 5 inches wide and sky blue around the sides. Do I spray the guitar completely claret then apply the blue to the sides or shoot the claret in the middle ,leaving a light dusting where the blue will be and build up the blue level with the claret,about 4 coats? How long before I can wet sand,considering the two colours?
I would start with the lighter color for the whole guitar and then add the darker one. Timing depends on paint type. Usually I would wait a couple weeks and then sand lightly and clear coat.
I have communicated with you before about my guitar re-finishing project. I have finished painting the color with spray can lacquer, and I am now out of the paint. However, during the painting, the nozzle seemed to direct more paint in certain areas. I therefore now have some lines that appear more shinny than other areas of the body. Since I don't have any more of the paint, is there a way to fix it so those bright & dull lines don't show through the clear coat. I was thinking that it might make things more even if I did some wet sanding, but I would appreciate your thoughts. I have now purchased an HVLP gun to paint the clear, but I am wondering what ratio of lacquer to thinner I should use. There is a message on the label of the lacquer that says no thinner required, but if used add a 5% ratio. This is some leftover clear from the first time I painted this guitar, so it is about 2 to 3 yrs. old, and might have thickened-up some. On the video for the Stratocaster, you used a mixture of roughly 60/40. Also, what do you suggest for settings on the spraygun? ie: PSI, pattern width & flow. Since I may never use it again, I bought one of the Purple spray guns with a 1.4mm nozzle, from Harbor Freight for about $28.00 Show less REPLY View reply
Hey Brad, if I wanted to get a smooth finish without any of the woodgrain sticking through is it a matter of painting with primer first and sanding it back with say 400 grit? Or is there more to it than that?
Would you recommend the same procedure for Belton hammertone in spray cans? It's an already finished stratocaster. No primer? One layer of hammertone or more? Clear coating or not?
Great video hello I have an old kramer baretta and in several parts of the body the paint is gone and you only see the wood also has many scratches but I don't know if they are in the wood or only in the paint, I could sand it to remove the clear and apply primer over the original color to cover the areas that are showing the wood and then paint it ? Thank you
Hello, this a helpfull video! I own a Squier Classic Vibe 50s telecaster in white and you can see the wood shader through the paint (it meant to be like this anyways on these guitars), so I don't know how it was paint to see the wood shader through, and I want to paint in Daphne Blue and I will definetly use Nitrocellulose lacquer on this, Do you have any suggestions for this situation please?
Well i would prefer to see the wood through the paint, but I just have removed the paint from an old Affinity squier that I don't play anymore where the wood is apparent through the paint, and I discovered that before the wood itself, there's like a yellowish transparent coat and I don't know with what material the wood has been finished before it got painted, but I believe this is a technique so the wood texture can be apparent
That's just the sealer underneath. If you want to be able to see the wood through the paint you can use a clear lacquer and mix in a transparent dye to get your colour.
Hi Brad - apologies if you’ve already answered these questions somewhere in your videos, but I would like to be 100% sure before I start painting. I’ve got a kit guitar I’d like to spray paint the front of, and have the back, sides and neck keep a natural look. I also want to keep the grain showing through the top. Should I stain the parts I want natural, or is oil better (or something else)? And should I spray straight onto the wood like you do here or use a primer? Thanks in advance.
It depends on what color you want. Oil will keep a similar natural look to what it has now. Stain will darken it a bit, and you would still want to put something over the stain to protect it. You probably want to tape off the rest of the guitar before painting the top. I would do that step first.
Brad Angove I do indeed want to darken it to a medium-dark shade (it’s pretty light at the moment), so I’ll stain, thanks! And I can stain the neck too and keep it kind of satin-y, right? What’s the best way to protect to keep the stained areas soft and smooth (particularly under hand, on the neck, to stop it gripping)? And as for the top, which I’d like to spray and have the grain show through and have a glossy finish on, can I spray my colour on the wood, then clear coat on top? I’m yet to identify the type of paint because it’s all in Dutch on the can... Thanks for your reply though; I really appreciate you taking the time, especially considering the number of comments and questions you get. Sorry for the length of the message as well!
For the satin feel my favorite finish for necks is modified tung oil. In terms of getting the glossier look on the headstock, you will probably want to consider applying a sealer before the paint.
Oh thanks - hadn’t even thought of the headstock. As it happens, I’m going to stain everything, rather than paint the top, because I just don’t have a good place to spray safely. Oil on the neck, though. I do have more questions but I’ll watch more videos first in case the answers lie within...
Why is it necessary to mask off the neck pocket? Is paint between the wood surfaces of neck and body really going to affect anything as regards sound/sustain?
im can spraying a guitar atm and i want to spray a white star over the green. Would you sand down with 1500 or 2000 grit wet n dry first or would you sand down after ready for buffing? Ì will finish with a car wax highly buffed.
Hi Brad, I think I might need your advice in the following matter. A month ago I purchased 3 spray cans from a nitrocellulose paint provider (primer, nitro colour and clear coat). The problem is that the colour he sent me wasn't the right one (I asked for some dakota red and the result was a kind of brown wood), so this provider is not reliable anymore. Taking into account that I don't have a paint pistol (very expensive in Argentina) I was thinking on keep on going with the spray cans, but this time with Rustoleum brand (I have the Zinsser 123 primer, Colonial Red Rustoleum 2X, and Rustoleum clear gloss lacquer). Any advice you could give on this? I made a little spray test with an old yellow Rustoleum spray can on a sanded piece of wood a week ago (no primer and no clear, just one hand of yellow) and I still get the finger nail marks when pressing the paint, as I remember in one of your videos... the paint have to pass the finger nail test ;) Sorry for the long comment, but any advice will be much appreciated!!! Thanks
Is this the same technique you would use for painting pedal enclosures? I've been building pedals and have started painting them. But, I've had some issues with the paint. Lol. I sand the enclosure, put a coat on, snad after a day, put a coat on, sand, final coat and then clear coat a day after my final coat. I usually have runs (I'm over spraying but I can't not do it, lol) that I sand down.
Hi Brad, I'm preparing to do a paint job on my guitar, It's a matt finish though. My question is this… Is it 10 minutes in between coats if It's a matt fluorescent base coat?
Brad i am having problems spray painting my guitar i am using rustoleum spray paint. I have sanded the guitar and use primer but no mattet how long i wait 2 days or 4days the paint comes off when i sand it between coats even with 2000 grit sandpaper. Now it the temperature in ny garage is 55 degrees while outside its 45 degres during the day and 30 during the night time but my garage is always 12 degres warmer so is my issue the type of paint or the temperature. Please respond. I have working on tjis for 3 weeks and i never get to use clear coats since my sanding takes the paint off
@@BradAngove hi brad i initially used a heat gun to take off the orginal color. . the color seems to come off when I sand it by hand in between coats . I noticed it doing it with 800 grit , 1000,1200 and 2000 grit. . I am using the enamel version of rustoleum . One time I even waited 4 days. . I was waiting 30 mins to a hour between coats. I have done 2 coats a day for two or three days but every time i end up going back to beginning because the paint comes off. I appreciate you responding back to me. I dont remember the orginal sand grit but at one point when i started over to get rid of the high points in the paint i used 80 , then 180, then 240 then I think 800 was the last one. then started repainted it again please note that when I started again I did not take all the paint off again like i did when i first started. I just wante to get the paint smooth because the paint was getting all lumpy. I am willing to remove all the paint and start over again but I want to know if I should stick with rustoleum enamel version or use another type of paint. I am trying to get the guitar to look like a tiger striped guitar . a yellow body with black stripes.
Dumb question, but how are you attaching the guitar body to the wood/dowel? I see screws going through the back screw holes, but they're not tightened down? Thanks
Hey Brad, I really like your video which I followed your step and its works!! Can you make the video about how to relic the guitar ( like john mayer black 1) please?
Brad Angove k this is all new to me its not just the paint n everything after that the wiring do u have any tutorials on wiring n installing pickups? ur videos are good i like how u explain things n ur pretty straight forward quite helpful
If you have a look at the kit build series’ I’ve done, I have the wiring at the end and usually a version at the beginning too when I do the original test build.
hi brad! i have a guitar that i painted black, but since it was sanded really poorly, some places have woodgrain showing through the paint and some don’t. how would you suggest fixing it? should i sand down the black paint completely and use grain filler or is it enough to sand it a bit and then use grain filler?
Yes. But I will say that over the intervening years since I made this video I’ve realized that it matters much less than I thought. I like the Mohawk cans for lacquer work. Also, have a look at my video on how to get a professional looking clear coat with spray cans.
@@BradAngove Thanks! I want to do a Matte Olive Drab on a new Warmoth Strat. Do i start with a sealer, sandable primer or a filler primer? I will continue to watch more of your applicable videos as well.
@@Route32rg I would start with a sealer. The vinyl sealer from Mohawk is favourite. You can see me use it in a few videos on this channel, particularly from back when it was under the brand name Behlen.
I'm new to guitar building, and I want to build a LP from a kit. it has flamed maple on top and mahogany on the back. I thinking about staining the maple purple and paint the back and neck opaque black. but what I don't understand is the filler. I thought that you couldn't paint over filler, but you said that if you wanted it all smooth you needed to grain fill it and prime it. I'm am confused haha! what kind of paint do you use? can I use acrylic spray?
You can definitely paint over filler haha. It is however a bit difficult to stain filler. You can use acrylic spray; I've done several guitars in that.
Hey Brad, am about to start by first guitar project and was thinking of painting with spray cans.. However.. I already have a compressor so thinking about maybe learning how to use the guns. Do you have a video or any recomendations on how to do a full paint job on a guitar using a spray gun as Ive never used them before? Maybe even on how to set the gun up correctly for a guitar job? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!! Thinking of doing a chameleon finish :)
I’ve got a video on how to set up your paint gun, and another one on how to set up your paint gun for acrylics. One of my first series ever was a full guitar paint job with spray guns (acrylic and polyurethane). My later series on how to paint your guitar with nitrocellulose lacquer was also predominantly paint gun work. I’ve also got a dedicated video on how to clean your paint gun. These are all old videos, so the quality isn’t as good, but the information is still accurate.
You don't really need a primer when you're painting wood, but it can help to seal the wood and make it easier for the subsequent paint to stick. Flash-off is the time it takes for the paint to dry enough that you can re-coat and it will adhere chemically. If you re-coat too early it will just run and build up weird. If you wait to long you need to let it dry completely and sand lightly so that it can adhere mechanically or it won't stick properly.
Brad Angove OH! ok, so if you get it at the right time, then you don't have to sand before applying more paint, but if u wait longer then u do have to sand first?
Hey Brad, I have a beard too but it is big, bushy and about 6 inches long. Will a respirator work OK with it? I will be painting outdoors also. Thanks!
Got a question, I'm stripping down my squire guitar and going to paint it black with red racing stripes, using spray paint, should I paint the black first or the red?
Hey Brad I’m panting an Explorer right now. I just applied the primer yesterday morning and let it dry for 24 hours. I’m doing a Matthias Jabs paintjob. I’m painting the body black first, then masking off the stripes and painting the solid color of ivory white. I’m using Rustoleum 2X enamel. Firstly, should I be using enamel or laquer? I’ve read that enamel will not set up right and not fully cure causing the paint to be soft? Secondly, how long should I wait between each coat to spray another coat? Thirdly, do I need to sand between each coat? Thanks in advance! This guitar is for my son and I want to make sure that I do it right.
+Scott Pink the re coat times etc. depend on the paint type. Lacquer is generally a coat or two per day. No sanding in between required. Enamel you spray three coats 10 minutes apart, then let it dry a couple days. Then sand lightly before taping and spraying your next colour. I've heard of people having problems with their enamels not curing. It hasn't been an issue for me.
Brad Angove What about getting runs out? I started painting the body today and I got a few rounds in the paint. I didn’t mess with them and I’m letting them dry. How long should I let it dry before I try to send them out with a sanding block?
+Cary Marshall I didn't sand between coats for the orange if that's what you're referring to. It's unnecessary as long as you re-coat at the appropriate time so that the paint will bond mechanically. Generally, when I am in a situation where I do need to sand between coat I use 600 or 800 grit paper.
Hi Brad, really like your tutorials. I am almost ready to paint my explorer galaxy guitar. this will be in black with mother of pearl inlays. (lots of small planets and stars) my question is, do I paint, then cut the inlay holes. or should I paint after the inlays are in? really need a bit advice on this one. Best regards John
Let me start by saying I have never run into this situation before, so all I can really give you is a best guest type of answer. I think if I were doing the same thing, I would likely cut the inlay holes first, then paint, then touch up the holes, then put the inlays in, then clear coat.
Question! I'm thinking of using rustolem textured spray paint but in doesn't say what type of paint it is? enamel or acrylic enamel or ? The store or even rustolems web site doesn't tell you.Would you happen to know I have tried it on some test wood and seems to stick well. It's a little rough so I knocked it down a bit with a 3m finishing pad now it looks good has a nice look to it But I would like to know what can I use for a finish? Since I don't know what type paint the texture is. If you could help I would be Grateful Thanks!! P.S. I live in calif. and I know that because of all the laws on certain chemicals I'm sure the paints aren't as good as they were 20 yr's ago when acrylic enamel was just that. not watered down junk..
Hi Mike. I'm not entirely sure what the texture paint is, but one of the nice things about the new low VOC stuff is that it's typically not as reactive. If you give it ample time for any solvents in it to evaporate, you should be able to seal it up with acrylic or enamel without any trouble. Polyurethane is also an option.
Alright Good to know I'm still waiting for rustoleum to back to me. But I will Keep this in mind Thank you for your help! your videos are good and very helpful! Again Thanks
Brad Rust-oleum just got back to me there Multi textured spray paint Is a Solvent-based acrylic. They said I could use a clear enamel over it. Does that sound about right to you? And the also said that depending on the color that use I should paint an under coat dark or light so I don't have to use as much texture paint to cover. Sound about right to you Well If so Please let me know. Thanks I really want to get this guitar done Seems like I've been working on this thing for ever. again thank you!
That sounds correct. I think I've probably done that before actually. The texture paint usually isn't super opaque, so finding a similar colour to use as a base coat can save you some time.
Love the videos. I'm pretty much a noobie to refinishing my own guitar. You inspired me to do it and I chose a Dupli Color Bahama Blue finish on a Squier Jazz Bass project. But man I'm really struggling with blotchy looking paint coats. Haven't clear coated yet and trying to figure out how to fix before I move forward. I'm certain the clear coat won't fix a very uneven looking paint finish. Light sand, clean, and re-coat? I worry sanding could ruin the metallic properties of the paint. Is it my technique? Could it be a chemical reaction? I lightly scuffed (320 grit) a smooth almost new matte white finish and used as a primer basically. Could it be weather related? I'm in Alabama and the weather has actually been fairly mild honestly, but maybe a bit humid as always. I'm working in an enclosed shed. I've gone through three cans of paint trying to work this out so far. Wish I could share a picture on RUclips. I appreciate your help!
Sometimes getting metallic paint to look even over a white base can be difficult. I would consider sanding it back and applying an opaque blue base coat. Then coming in with the metallic paint overtop.
Excellent video. Gorgeous colour, been thinking about painting my bike orange next summer and was on the lookout for a base colour. Would that rustoleum be your go to for something like a bike? I will be using primer for sure and probably a poly clear over the base. Also as a random note, Crown royal rye won whiskey of the year, i am pretty surprised. Have you been able to try it? Really hard to find in the lcbos in Toronto for me, always sold out.
+PeetPrime Thanks Peet. I like this colour, but honestly, spray cans aren't really my go to for any paint job. I would be a bit worried about using these "high performance" enamels with a polyurethane clear coat over them. That is a bit surprising. I haven't had a chance to pick up the rye yet. I heard about it, but couldn't find any. Or it was too expensive; I can't really remember.
+Gene Swicegood Using Varathane water based clear poly and dont have tinting problems (mabe a bit white if you build it up enough). I spay the clear using a gun. I really like using the water polys since they are so forgiving and easy to cleanup (i dont think I use any paint thinners in the entire process which is nice). If you have any advice let me know. I may look into an orange duplicolor or something since they are meant for cars so im guessing it should be ok on bikes.
+Suyankii I'm always learning...Brad is more qualified for the advice....GREAT fella too honestly, I can't say I would be the person to ask advice from....I don't want to tell you something wrong but, if you're like me (born with a BIG question mark above your head)......get yourself "Guitar Player Repair Guide" by Dan Erlewine.....it's worth it's weight in gold, my friend..... Got mine off ebay for like $12 w/free shipping. Also, Krylon Lacquer is really good.....says right on the back of the can, "for musical instruments"...the biggest thing with ANY finish (to me anyways) is the drying/cure time.....gotta make sure it's cured. Have you seen Brad's facebook page??......if so AWESOME. I got a refinish going on atm on a vintage 1986 Washburn G5V....I plan on posting pics there for Brad's opinion... he's my teacher (kindda) and his opinions mean a LOT to me.....
Hey man, I recently primed my guitar with rust oleum 249058 white primer. I did sand it down, however, I did not clean it. What do you suggest I should do? Should I start over? Or should I continue with the paint job?
Hey Brad, great videos really helping me along with my first build. I have a question as I went with a stain and when trying to clear coat with rub on poly it seemed it was not taking after 3-5 coats. I switched to rustoleum clear coat and having some evenness and getting the entire guitar to take the clear coat. I wet sanded between coats with the clear coat and I just can’t figure it out. I am thinking of sanding it and using this method as it seems like an easier way to finish it and this is my first build so am not overly concerned with using spray instead of better materials and paints. My question is what grit do you recommend me sanding the body down to before starting over with a primer and then spray enamel finish? Thanks for all the videos you do a great job and are very informative!
Thanks for the info am going to do give that approach a try. I tried that watco rub on poly first and after 6 coats and some light sanding in between couldn’t get it to fully coat evenly or fully take to the body. Then I sanded the clear that did stick down to 400 and switched to spray rustoleum and had the same issues. I am going to sand down to 320 as you mentioned and start over with paints starting with primer. Thanks for the reply Brad and keep up the great informative videos I really enjoy them!
I need a copper color that ACTUALLY LOOKS LIKE COPPER. I've used nitro copper from Reranch and it turned out looking like brown metallic. Any advice or places you could send me to get a finish that will relic over time like an old finish? Color has to be copper metallic.
Yes, automotive paint generally uses essentially the same process. You can use lacquer clear if you paint is also lacquer based, but you should probably use a compatible automotive clear if you're using automotive paints on your guitar.
Hey Brad, seeing as you didn't use a primer or a sealer, did you have any trouble with the paint soaking into the wood? I'm always dubious about painting directly onto bare wood even if I'm happy with the grain showing through
I don’t understand why there would be a concern with the paint soaking into the wood if you’re ok with the grain showing through? It depends on the wood type of course, but that’s mostly for aesthetics.
+tom d ive been watching these vidoes becuasce im designing alternate strat pickguards and will be painted my first test body in hammertone silver under a black and silver tortoise guard. the body is not 100percent perfect and i dont care but id like it to look interesting for pictures anyway. thanks for the good videos much more enjoyable to watch than some others.
Oh man, if that thing broke right off of the stand while I was painting it I think everyone would find it hilarious. You'd be like "well, I saw that coming". I'm glad you've enjoyed the videos. Hammered finish paints hide some of the small imperfections in stuff anyway. Good choice.
Hi, you are doing very good videos ! I have a question: Is it possible to do a chameleon effect with spraycans? If yes, could you please do a tutorial video of it? Thanks :)
Hey Brad, I've been watching your videos and just started my Strat refinish project by stripping the poly finish off. Now I'm deciding between polyurethane and nitrocellulose lacquer for the finish. Not sure if there's an appreciable difference between the two in the end result though. How do you clean the body after sanding is done before priming? Is a sealer necessary? I'm planning on using a white primer with an Olympic White top coat. Not sure if I'll clear over the finish coat though. Thoughts? Thanks! -Will
+dieselyeti Hi Will. I clean the body using wax and grease remover. There are many difference between poly and nitro. I believe I have a video specifically on the topic of poly vs nitro. If you've just removed the poly, the body is likely already sealed. Unless you used paint stripper to do it, in which case you may have removed the sealer. I tend to use some kind of sealer or primer before painting, but no necessarily both sealer and primer. If you're using a poly, you will need to clear over the colour coat to protect it.
+Brad Angove This was a thick polyester coating put on a cheap Mexican Fender. I've watched several of your vids and know the difference between nitro lacquer and polyester, but wasn't 100% sure which way to go. Seeing as it's a cheap guitar made with cheaper wood maybe polyurethane is the best. But that must be sanded between color coats, right?
That sounds like a reasonable choice. Poly is more durable, and faster to apply. I never sand between colour coats of poly. Instead, I apply the coats after the appropriate re-coat time so that they bond chemically. I re-coat immediately after the paint has flashed off, well before it would be dry enough to sand. If you let it dry too long, then you need to let it cure and sand it before coating again.
Time between coats depends on the product. It should come with a technical data sheet that will provide that information. It's generally about 10 minutes. You will need a clear coat over top if you're using poly. Flashing off is what it's called when the paint dries to the point where it is no longer wet, but is still tacky. It's the preliminary drying that needs to occur prior to re-coating. You add your next coat once the paint has flashed off (the appropriate percentage of the solvents have evaporated), but before it has dried.
There's really no need for it in these circumstances. Primer is intended mostly to make it easier to paint things that paint doesn't stick to properly, like bare metal.
gonna sound like an idiot here, bit if I'm painting an acoustic do I still sand it down before painting, sorry if it's a dumb question, just wanna do it right
Yes, you still need to sand it. I also highly recommend you don't use enamel spray cans on your acoustic. I did a video series where I painted an acoustic if you're interested.
In general? Nitrocellulose lacquer. More specifically, I just did a demo with Behlen's guitar finishing kit, which is designed for acoustics even though I used it on an electric, and it is awesome. I'm not sure what kind of paint job you're going for, but you might want to check out that series.
Brad Angove I appreciate the help, and yea I plan on checking out those videos, just gathering the needed supplies, and I am messing around with making an evh striped guitar, lucky I got a cheap guitar to practice on, so no worries if I mess up alittle
I can't think of a more wise person to ask about these paints so here goes. I have a can of Touch 'n Tone that I love the green of, a great red by Deruato and some clear coat by Krylon ColorMaster. I plan on repainting a really cheap Chinese guitar I bought for the hell of it when I started learning about fretting. $67 and it's almost there, but I hate the blue paint, though it's not terrible, I figure it'll make a proper surface to practice a burst on. I'm a cancer survivor and Army vet, so cash is profoundly tight atm, though the Army has nothing to do with my poverty, that's all the cancer, having lost 2/3rds of my tongue, I can't exactly get back to sales or retail management. (when they replace your tongue meat with under chin skin and the hair grows wild until the radiation finally kills it, that's a weird place to live, literally, fuck me, I'm drowning in hair that suddenly grows 20 times faster than it did in a beard!) Anyhow, am I better forgoing these sprays and just getting the car paints? Will they stay soft like they seem to on my pickguards as I've used them or is there some sort of catalyst that will stiffen them up. I thank you for you time and your opinions. When I can get back to a somewhat normal income, I'll be joining your pay channel, I'm just a bit screwed at the moment.
I’m not familiar with those specific cans (except the krylon). Can you tell me what type of paint they are? You may well be able to use those in conjunction with an automotive clear coat to get a nice hard finish. No need to join the paid thing. The additional content is quite minimal. As I said when I first introduced it, it’s mostly just to help support the input costs associated with these videos.
@@BradAngove WOW Brad, that was crazy quick of a response. Thanks for the answer. Not for anything, but I'm subscribed and have my bell on. Love your vids. All I have to do is get rid of my step daughter, she's dragging her heels, but then I'll have a room to work in with good ventilation. She gets really mad when I spray paint in there while she's sleeping, though it doesn't actually break my heart (she's kind of an a-hole) Soon, it'll be my room again. I'll post if I ever do anything interesting. I'd be sure to give props to you, I wouldn't have the balls to do any of it without your vids. On another topic, would it be difficult to paint a faux binding? Would I fold a piece of metal and glue in a piece of felt, or is there already something out there to do something like that with?
@@BradAngove not a big deal Brad. I was just thinking I could make a device for some felt so I could drag a paint line along the edge, to emulate a wraparound binding. My hesitation would be that every time I add more paint, it'd glob up. I'd rather try paint than actually have to route a guitar as I don't normally do this. I know I could get any color of binding I'd like. But that just leaves me cold with fear of f'ing it up. I'd be afraid I'd screw up the guitar rather than end up with a really cool look. I fell in love with the Gibson Black Widow, but since they only made 25 of them, and that's forever out of my price range, I figured I could mod one of my ebony guitars with a red inlay look.
Oh, I see. I would just paint the area, tape off a “binding” and then spray over it. When you peel the tape it leaves behind the old colour, which is the binding.
you could be the doppleganger of retired UFC fighter-now-analyst Kenny Florian. (guy on the far right) instagram.com/p/BGIY3UbyScA/?taken-by=kennyflorian
Of all the tutorial videos I have gone through on RUclips, yours are always the best and most informative.
+Jason Caldwell Thank you Jason. I'm glad you like them.
@@BradAngove Hi Brad, you're definitely one of the bests. I think I might need your advice in the following matter. A month ago I purchased 3 spray cans from a nitrocellulose paint provider (primer, nitro colour and clear coat). The problem is that the colour he sent me wasn't the right one (I asked for some dakota red and the result was a kind of brown wood), so this provider is not reliable anymore. Taking into account that I don't have a paint pistol (very expensive in Argentina) I was thinking on keep on going with the spray cans, but this time with Rustoleum brand (I have the Zinsser 123 primer, Colonial Red Rustoleum 2X, and Rustoleum clear gloss lacquer). Any advice you could give on this? I made a little spray test with an old yellow Rustoleum spray can on a sanded piece of wood a week ago (no primer and no clear, just one hand of yellow) and I still get the finger nail marks when pressing the paint, as I remember in one of your videos... the paint have to pass the finger nail test ;) Sorry for the long comment, but any advice will be much appreciated!!! Thanks
The rustoleum lacquer won’t work over the 2x. It’s an acrylic enamel. You are likely to have a reaction issue.
@@BradAngove Ouch! I see, so in this case which clear gloss spray can do you recommend to use with 2x?
There’s a 2x crystal clear spray that is a similar compound and should work. It’s what I used in this series.
I am thai . I will paint my guitar with spray can, and I fallow your vdo and it's a good vdo. Thank you very much.
+Wanphadej Namkhan Thanks. I'm glad you like the video.
Back at watching the old ones again. Hopefully I'll get a lot watched this weekend. I'm actually glad you haven't posted in a month. Spend time with family. 👍🇨🇦
It’s been a wild time over here. Looking to get back at it immediately though.
talk about timing, just messaged you about 16 hrs ago and here you are with a new line of videos... awesome! i think i'm gonna go with the open grain and no filling when i stain my bass and go with a solid swamp ash. looking forward to the rest of your quite informational vids. cheers!
+Brian Dabrowa Oh, sorry I didn't see your message. Sometimes I don't get the notifications. I'll go have a look.
You look into the camera like “See what you made me do!” Great video and I learned something.
Haha thanks
As ALWAYS Brad.....Top notch....
and orange....yep, my favorite color...
+Gene Swicegood Thanks. You weren't the first to comment this time haha.
+Brad Angove I know...dang it :-)
I want to paint my red Squier Strat to a solid white. I dont want the grain to show through so after I sand it I should use wood filler, wait a day, and then prime it? What time incriments should I wait between coats of filler and prime also how many coats? And then could i just do a coat of white, wait 10 mins, do another one and then wait a day? Or should i do three coats? Then I'd do three coats of gloss, waiting a day inbetween?
+Olivia Searcy If your squier is already red and doesn't show any grain, you don't need to wood fill. Just sand it a bit to scuff up the clear coat so that your new paint will stick. Then spray a coat of primer or two, wait a couple days for it to dry, and sand it smooth. Then apply a couple coats of white 10-15 minutes apart like you said, wait a day, scuff lightly, and do your three coats of clear 10-15 minutes apart.
I will do my first spray can paint on a strat body soon. Your videos, as always, are the best.
Thanks. I’m glad you like them.
Subbed! Found your channel by looking for DIY guitar kit builds! I plan on doing one myself, no clue how to play one, but always wanted one ever since I were little. Now I'm nearly 30, it's about time. Great videos!
Thanks. I hope my videos will be helpful to you. Luckily it's a fairly simple instrument to learn if you're not concerned with really mastering it per se.
Can you make a video on how you made your clamp for spray painting guitars?
I have. I believe it’s called something along the lines of make your own guitar spray stand or something like that.
Should you not use a sanding sealer of some sort?
+Adam Bennett If I wanted to conceal the grain, part of the process would be to use a sanding sealer or primer. For this paint job I'm letting the basic grain pattern show through, so it's not an issue.
I'm so glad you decided to do this again. :)
+Brandywine6969 I'm glad you're enthusiastic about the idea.
If I was going to use grain filler and primer, what grit of sandpaper would you go to in between coats of primer?
I don't usually sand in between coats of primer, but if I did I would probably use 400 grit.
Can this method work with with a stain/laquer finish? I was thinking of doing a painted stripe across the guitar and leaving a natural looking finish for the rest. Can it be achieved with a whole bunch of painters tape and patience?
Certainly. You may want to have a look at my how to paint your guitar by hand tutorial as well if that's what you're aiming for. You can stain the guitar, seal it, and then tape it and apply your stripe. Then of course you will want to clear coat it.
It's funny my guitar has the wood grain showing and I really liked it.
Should you dry or wet sand a coat before applying another coat of spray ? Thanks in advance
I dry sand.
Hey Brad thanks for all the helpful information. I painted a electric guitar with Krylon Shimmer Metallic spray paint (modified Alkaloid). The first coat came out good, but I wet sanded with 1200 sand paper and added a second coat. the second coat seems to have a couple of splotches. Not sure if it's the sanding or that maybe I forgot a spot or two on the second coat. Should I be wet sanding the paint or should I only be wet sanding the clear coat? Should I even wet sand it at all? How can I get rid of the splotches? Thank you
Guitarmage 007 i have a similar question. the way it looks like it goes primer, sand, primer, sand, paint till you have enough coats, clear coat and wet sand till it looks good. that seems to be the process.
I typically put on 3 coats without sanding between them when I do my colour coats. Metallics are notorious for splotching and striping because the flakes in them don't always go down evenly; particularly with spray paint. You may want to check out my video on how to get an even coat of paint with spray cans to see if that helps. Sanding metallics can mess with them a bit, so if you can get coverage within the redcoat window by putting down two coats, and then get a coat of clear on there in the same session, that usually works best.
Well I did it before the reply. 4 coats and wet sanded between each. The last wet sand I just used 2000 grit and did the last coat. Seems that each coat went on smoother. Now on to the back and sides!
I'm glad it's working out for you. Sanding in between coats with help you get a smooth finish even though it's often not necessary. If you're seeing success doing that on your metallics, then why stop now haha.
Thanks Brad that's great, happy new year
+Cary Marshall Happy new year
You make spraying look easy
+Ed Martinez I’ve had a lot of practice, but it’s a relatively easy skill to pick up. I recommend you check out my video on how to get an even coat of paint with spray cans, and practice that technique a couple times if you’re having difficulty.
Would you have to sand a guitar that is already painted to respray it a different colour or can you just spray over it?
You would need to sand the finish a bit so that the new paint will stick, but you don't need to sand the finish off.
I am toying with the idea of taking all of the old Finnish off of my strat body what do you think about that? and I would like to use a better paint. any Ideas of a better paint? Thanks Brad for the post. c];-D
I just recently did a video on how to remove the paint from your guitar. In fact, it was the guitar body that I painted in this series haha. That's definitely an option. A better paint in what way? Do you know what paint is on there now?
Should you heat the spray cans like I've heard prior to spraying? Also wondering why you skipped the primer which you probably said and I missed?
Heating the cans can help them spray, especially if they are cold. Primer can be helpful to get a solid color for a base or help fill grain a little, but it’s not necessary for adhesion or anything like that.
Does the paint have to be high performance enamel. I used rustolem but it it was Universal Advanced Formula 2x ultra cover paint + primer in one flat black as main color. Then Painters Touch 2x ultra cover paint + primer in one Satin. Then Painters Touch 2x ultra cover gloss clear. I still need to wet sand. I also want to know if turtle wax polishing compound will work for the final polish becase most videos say to use liquid car polish, plus the instructions say to use the turtle wax rubbing compound first.
It definitely does not need to be high performance enamel. Acrylics, lacquer, polyurethanes, etc. should all work fine. I get to the sanding and polishing later in this series. It's a four part tutorial. Generally you would use the rubbing compound first and then move on to the polish. First you need to sand to essentially the highest grit you can manage though.
Hi, I'm going to spray a guitar the colours of a football kit for a friend.The two solid colours will be, claret,running through the centre,around 5 inches wide and sky blue around the sides. Do I spray the guitar completely claret then apply the blue to the sides or shoot the claret in the middle ,leaving a light dusting where the blue will be and build up the blue level with the claret,about 4 coats? How long before I can wet sand,considering the two colours?
I would start with the lighter color for the whole guitar and then add the darker one.
Timing depends on paint type. Usually I would wait a couple weeks and then sand lightly and clear coat.
@@BradAngove Thanks for the advice,much appreciated. I've learnt a lot from your channel.👌
Glad I could help
Great video. I have strat that is originally black. I want to paint it white. Should I remove blach coat or can I paint it white over black?
You can sand the black and move straight to your white. Black and white are the most opaque paints typically.
@@BradAngove thank you Brad.
I have communicated with you before about my guitar re-finishing project. I have finished painting the color with spray can lacquer, and I am now out of the paint. However, during the painting, the nozzle seemed to direct more paint in certain areas. I therefore now have some lines that appear more shinny than other areas of the body. Since I don't have any more of the paint, is there a way to fix it so those bright & dull lines don't show through the clear coat. I was thinking that it might make things more even if I did some wet sanding, but I would appreciate your thoughts. I have now purchased an HVLP gun to paint the clear, but I am wondering what ratio of lacquer to thinner I should use. There is a message on the label of the lacquer that says no thinner required, but if used add a 5% ratio. This is some leftover clear from the first time I painted this guitar, so it is about 2 to 3 yrs. old, and might have thickened-up some. On the video for the Stratocaster, you used a mixture of roughly 60/40. Also, what do you suggest for settings on the spraygun? ie: PSI, pattern width & flow. Since I may never use it again, I bought one of the Purple spray guns with a 1.4mm nozzle, from Harbor Freight for about $28.00
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hi brad what a job well done could you tell me the kind of Orange that is thanks.
“Equipment orange” from Rustoleum.
What grit sandpaper do you use to get rid of the orange peel effect?
Usually 800. If it’s in the clear, 1200.
Hey Brad, if I wanted to get a smooth finish without any of the woodgrain sticking through is it a matter of painting with primer first and sanding it back with say 400 grit? Or is there more to it than that?
+fkthewhat It's more a matter of grain filling first. Then moving on to primer or sealer and paint.
Would you recommend the same procedure for Belton hammertone in spray cans? It's an already finished stratocaster. No primer? One layer of hammertone or more? Clear coating or not?
Sand at 600 grit and then you should be good to spray. Probably 2 layers. I don’t know if there is a clear for that product; I doubt it.
Halo Mr Brad..can we do spraying a guitar using electric spray gun..it is better than spray with rattle can?TQ
If you are able to mix your paint correctly, then yes the gun will be better.
Great video hello I have an old kramer baretta and in several parts of the body the paint is gone and you only see the wood also has many scratches but I don't know if they are in the wood or only in the paint, I could sand it to remove the clear and apply primer over the original color to cover the areas that are showing the wood and then paint it ? Thank you
Yes, you could do that. If the scratches are still there after sanding just apply a bit a filler.
Hello, this a helpfull video! I own a Squier Classic Vibe 50s telecaster in white and you can see the wood shader through the paint (it meant to be like this anyways on these guitars), so I don't know how it was paint to see the wood shader through, and I want to paint in Daphne Blue and I will definetly use Nitrocellulose lacquer on this, Do you have any suggestions for this situation please?
Are you trying to get it so that you can see the wood stain still, or just an opaque finish?
Well i would prefer to see the wood through the paint, but I just have
removed the paint from an old Affinity squier that I don't play anymore
where the wood is apparent through the paint, and I discovered that
before the wood itself, there's like a yellowish transparent coat and I
don't know with what material the wood has been finished before it got
painted, but I believe this is a technique so the wood texture can be
apparent
That's just the sealer underneath. If you want to be able to see the wood through the paint you can use a clear lacquer and mix in a transparent dye to get your colour.
Hi Brad - apologies if you’ve already answered these questions somewhere in your videos, but I would like to be 100% sure before I start painting. I’ve got a kit guitar I’d like to spray paint the front of, and have the back, sides and neck keep a natural look. I also want to keep the grain showing through the top. Should I stain the parts I want natural, or is oil better (or something else)? And should I spray straight onto the wood like you do here or use a primer? Thanks in advance.
It depends on what color you want. Oil will keep a similar natural look to what it has now. Stain will darken it a bit, and you would still want to put something over the stain to protect it. You probably want to tape off the rest of the guitar before painting the top. I would do that step first.
Brad Angove I do indeed want to darken it to a medium-dark shade (it’s pretty light at the moment), so I’ll stain, thanks! And I can stain the neck too and keep it kind of satin-y, right? What’s the best way to protect to keep the stained areas soft and smooth (particularly under hand, on the neck, to stop it gripping)? And as for the top, which I’d like to spray and have the grain show through and have a glossy finish on, can I spray my colour on the wood, then clear coat on top? I’m yet to identify the type of paint because it’s all in Dutch on the can... Thanks for your reply though; I really appreciate you taking the time, especially considering the number of comments and questions you get. Sorry for the length of the message as well!
For the satin feel my favorite finish for necks is modified tung oil. In terms of getting the glossier look on the headstock, you will probably want to consider applying a sealer before the paint.
Oh thanks - hadn’t even thought of the headstock. As it happens, I’m going to stain everything, rather than paint the top, because I just don’t have a good place to spray safely. Oil on the neck, though. I do have more questions but I’ll watch more videos first in case the answers lie within...
Why is it necessary to mask off the neck pocket? Is paint between the wood surfaces of neck and body really going to affect anything as regards sound/sustain?
It's so that the neck fits back into the pocket. The neck is supposed to be a snug fit.
After sanding Brad, what do you wipe it down with?
Wax and grease remover
im can spraying a guitar atm and i want to spray a white star over the green. Would you sand down with 1500 or 2000 grit wet n dry first or would you sand down after ready for buffing? Ì will finish with a car wax highly buffed.
think you answered my question at the end of your vid. Good job :)
Glad to be of service haha.
Hi Brad, I think I might need your advice in the following matter. A month ago I purchased 3 spray cans from a nitrocellulose paint provider (primer, nitro colour and clear coat). The problem is that the colour he sent me wasn't the right one (I asked for some dakota red and the result was a kind of brown wood), so this provider is not reliable anymore. Taking into account that I don't have a paint pistol (very expensive in Argentina) I was thinking on keep on going with the spray cans, but this time with Rustoleum brand (I have the Zinsser 123 primer, Colonial Red Rustoleum 2X, and Rustoleum clear gloss lacquer). Any advice you could give on this? I made a little spray test with an old yellow Rustoleum spray can on a sanded piece of wood a week ago (no primer and no clear, just one hand of yellow) and I still get the finger nail marks when pressing the paint, as I remember in one of your videos... the paint have to pass the finger nail test ;) Sorry for the long comment, but any advice will be much appreciated!!! Thanks
Is this the same technique you would use for painting pedal enclosures?
I've been building pedals and have started painting them. But, I've had some issues with the paint. Lol.
I sand the enclosure, put a coat on, snad after a day, put a coat on, sand, final coat and then clear coat a day after my final coat.
I usually have runs (I'm over spraying but I can't not do it, lol) that I sand down.
Are you using primer?
@@BradAngove, not just primer. I use paint and primer. I believe Rust-Oleum.
@@willwolfinger2770 You need a proper metal-compatible primer. The paint/primer doesn't generally work all that well.
@@BradAngove, awesome. Thanks for the reply. I'll definitely pick some up and try it out. I appreciate it!
Great stuff
Thank you.
What grit sandpaper do you sand the body to before painting? And would it be the same if you use a primer?
It depends on the paint, but typically 220. Same with primer.
I love your videos brad, really helpful 👍🏻
Thanks Steve
Hi Brad, I'm preparing to do a paint job on my guitar, It's a matt finish though. My question is this… Is it 10 minutes in between coats if It's a matt fluorescent base coat?
Generally yes.
Brad i am having problems spray painting my guitar i am using rustoleum spray paint. I have sanded the guitar and use primer but no mattet how long i wait 2 days or 4days the paint comes off when i sand it between coats even with 2000 grit sandpaper. Now it the temperature in ny garage is 55 degrees while outside its 45 degres during the day and 30 during the night time but my garage is always 12 degres warmer so is my issue the type of paint or the temperature. Please respond. I have working on tjis for 3 weeks and i never get to use clear coats since my sanding takes the paint off
What grit did you sand to initially? Is your paint chipping off or are you sanding through it? How many coats are you doing?
@@BradAngove hi brad i initially used a heat gun to take off the orginal color. . the color seems to come off when I sand it by hand in between coats . I noticed it doing it with 800 grit , 1000,1200 and 2000 grit. . I am using the enamel version of rustoleum . One time I even waited 4 days. . I was waiting 30 mins to a hour between coats. I have done 2 coats a day for two or three days but every time i end up going back to beginning because the paint comes off. I appreciate you responding back to me.
I dont remember the orginal sand grit but at one point when i started over to get rid of the high points in the paint i used 80 , then 180, then 240 then I think 800 was the last one. then started repainted it again please note that when I started again I did not take all the paint off again like i did when i first started. I just wante to get the paint smooth because the paint was getting all lumpy. I am willing to remove all the paint and start over again but I want to know if I should stick with rustoleum enamel version or use another type of paint. I am trying to get the guitar to look like a tiger striped guitar . a yellow body with black stripes.
@@BradAngove i am switching to dupli color
Dumb question, but how are you attaching the guitar body to the wood/dowel? I see screws going through the back screw holes, but they're not tightened down? Thanks
I have a piece of plywood attached to the dowel that matches the neck pocket. Then I just run screws threw the usual neck holes into that plywood.
@@BradAngove Cool, thanks!
Hey Brad, I really like your video which I followed your step and its works!! Can you make the video about how to relic the guitar ( like john mayer black 1) please?
+jaysuchanun noidee I am planning on doing a relicing video at some point, yes.
I'm glad you found the videos helpful.
i wana do the same idea one solid color .. so u say if i use a primer before i paint the grain wont show?
Use grain filler to make sure the grain won’t show. I have a couple tutorials on grain filling.
Brad Angove k this is all new to me its not just the paint n everything after that the wiring do u have any tutorials on wiring n installing pickups? ur videos are good i like how u explain things n ur pretty straight forward quite helpful
If you have a look at the kit build series’ I’ve done, I have the wiring at the end and usually a version at the beginning too when I do the original test build.
Brad Angove k thanx dude
Can you use a poly finish on a spray painted guitar?
Yessir.
hi brad! i have a guitar that i painted black, but since it was sanded really poorly, some places have woodgrain showing through the paint and some don’t.
how would you suggest fixing it? should i sand down the black paint completely and use grain filler or is it enough to sand it a bit and then use grain filler?
You can sand back part way and then fill. If it’s just a bit of grain a filler primer may also be sufficient.
@@BradAngove thank you so much!
Does the kind of spray paint matter? (Lacquer or nitro?)
Nitro is lacquer. The type really only matters to the extent that you need to make sure everything you’re using is compatible.
Are there any "propper" paints for a guitar that comes in a can?
Yes. But I will say that over the intervening years since I made this video I’ve realized that it matters much less than I thought.
I like the Mohawk cans for lacquer work. Also, have a look at my video on how to get a professional looking clear coat with spray cans.
@@BradAngove Thanks! I want to do a Matte Olive Drab on a new Warmoth Strat. Do i start with a sealer, sandable primer or a filler primer? I will continue to watch more of your applicable videos as well.
@@Route32rg I would start with a sealer. The vinyl sealer from Mohawk is favourite. You can see me use it in a few videos on this channel, particularly from back when it was under the brand name Behlen.
What grain of sand paper do you use before paint and what do you clean with?
400 before primer/sealer, 600 before paint, 800 before clear.
Wax and grease remover.
What do you do if you get drips?
Let them dry fully and then sand them flat.
thinking of painted my mostly wood ibenez should i sand first?
Yes. In almost every context you should sand before you paint.
@@BradAngove Thank you so much! last question what kinda spray cans should I use for my guitar is is light wood?
Are you stripping it back all the way to the wood?
Or was it already bare wood?
I'm new to guitar building, and I want to build a LP from a kit. it has flamed maple on top and mahogany on the back. I thinking about staining the maple purple and paint the back and neck opaque black. but what I don't understand is the filler. I thought that you couldn't paint over filler, but you said that if you wanted it all smooth you needed to grain fill it and prime it. I'm am confused haha! what kind of paint do you use? can I use acrylic spray?
You can definitely paint over filler haha. It is however a bit difficult to stain filler. You can use acrylic spray; I've done several guitars in that.
Hey Brad, am about to start by first guitar project and was thinking of painting with spray cans.. However.. I already have a compressor so thinking about maybe learning how to use the guns. Do you have a video or any recomendations on how to do a full paint job on a guitar using a spray gun as Ive never used them before? Maybe even on how to set the gun up correctly for a guitar job? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!! Thinking of doing a chameleon finish :)
I’ve got a video on how to set up your paint gun, and another one on how to set up your paint gun for acrylics.
One of my first series ever was a full guitar paint job with spray guns (acrylic and polyurethane). My later series on how to paint your guitar with nitrocellulose lacquer was also predominantly paint gun work.
I’ve also got a dedicated video on how to clean your paint gun. These are all old videos, so the quality isn’t as good, but the information is still accurate.
No worries, will go through your old videos now. Hoping to do acrylic/poly so that is perfect. Thanks for your help, love the channel!
Thank you. Let me know if you have any questions.
What would I use to clean the guitar after sanding grain filler and primer?
Mike Maydonik tack cloth, they're available at most hardware and auto stores
I would suggest using some wax and grease remover. If you can't find that, windex or lighter fluid work fine.
Is there a specific grain filler you recommend? Thanks!
I typically recommend the simple water based wood filler because it doesn’t tend to react with finishes.
So how do you know if you need a primer? What does "Flash-off" mean?
You don't really need a primer when you're painting wood, but it can help to seal the wood and make it easier for the subsequent paint to stick.
Flash-off is the time it takes for the paint to dry enough that you can re-coat and it will adhere chemically. If you re-coat too early it will just run and build up weird. If you wait to long you need to let it dry completely and sand lightly so that it can adhere mechanically or it won't stick properly.
Brad Angove OH! ok, so if you get it at the right time, then you don't have to sand before applying more paint, but if u wait longer then u do have to sand first?
That's correct.
Hey Brad, I have a beard too but it is big, bushy and about 6 inches long. Will a respirator work OK with it? I will be painting outdoors also. Thanks!
The respirator won’t seal properly with that unfortunately. It’s a good think you’re painting outdoors.
@@BradAngove That's what I figured. I am hoping the combo of a half assed respirator seal and doing the job outside will be good enough. Thanks Brad!
I hope it goes well for you. Try to stand upwind of the project.
Got a question, I'm stripping down my squire guitar and going to paint it black with red racing stripes, using spray paint, should I paint the black first or the red?
You can do either one. I would generally do the black first if it were me.
Hey Brad I’m panting an Explorer right now. I just applied the primer yesterday morning and let it dry for 24 hours. I’m doing a Matthias Jabs paintjob. I’m painting the body black first, then masking off the stripes and painting the solid color of ivory white. I’m using Rustoleum 2X enamel. Firstly, should I be using enamel or laquer? I’ve read that enamel will not set up right and not fully cure causing the paint to be soft? Secondly, how long should I wait between each coat to spray another coat? Thirdly, do I need to sand between each coat? Thanks in advance! This guitar is for my son and I want to make sure that I do it right.
+Scott Pink the re coat times etc. depend on the paint type. Lacquer is generally a coat or two per day. No sanding in between required. Enamel you spray three coats 10 minutes apart, then let it dry a couple days. Then sand lightly before taping and spraying your next colour.
I've heard of people having problems with their enamels not curing. It hasn't been an issue for me.
Brad Angove What about getting runs out? I started painting the body today and I got a few rounds in the paint. I didn’t mess with them and I’m letting them dry. How long should I let it dry before I try to send them out with a sanding block?
What type of paint did you end up using? Enamel?
Brad Angove yes sir. Rustoleum 2X ultra color enamel
+Scott Pink I would give that a day to dry before sanding runs out etc.
Thanks for the video. What grade of sand paper do you use between coats Brad?
+Cary Marshall I didn't sand between coats for the orange if that's what you're referring to. It's unnecessary as long as you re-coat at the appropriate time so that the paint will bond mechanically. Generally, when I am in a situation where I do need to sand between coat I use 600 or 800 grit paper.
Hi Brad, really like your tutorials.
I am almost ready to paint my explorer galaxy guitar. this will be in black with mother of pearl inlays. (lots of small planets and stars) my question is, do I paint, then cut the inlay holes. or should I paint after the inlays are in? really need a bit advice on this one. Best regards John
Let me start by saying I have never run into this situation before, so all I can really give you is a best guest type of answer. I think if I were doing the same thing, I would likely cut the inlay holes first, then paint, then touch up the holes, then put the inlays in, then clear coat.
Brad Angove ok. thanks for your response on this 🖒
You're welcome. Best of luck with your project.
Question! I'm thinking of using rustolem textured spray paint but in doesn't say what type of paint it is? enamel or acrylic enamel or ? The store or even rustolems web site doesn't tell you.Would you happen to know I have tried it on some test wood and seems to stick well. It's a little rough so I knocked it down a bit with a 3m finishing pad now it looks good has a nice look to it But I would like to know what can I use for a finish? Since I don't know what type paint the texture is. If you could help I would be Grateful Thanks!! P.S. I live in calif. and I know that because of all the laws on certain chemicals I'm sure the paints aren't as good as they were 20 yr's ago when acrylic enamel was just that. not watered down junk..
Hi Mike. I'm not entirely sure what the texture paint is, but one of the nice things about the new low VOC stuff is that it's typically not as reactive. If you give it ample time for any solvents in it to evaporate, you should be able to seal it up with acrylic or enamel without any trouble. Polyurethane is also an option.
Alright Good to know I'm still waiting for rustoleum to back to me. But I will Keep this in mind Thank you for your help! your videos are good and very helpful! Again Thanks
You're welcome. Thanks for watching.
Brad Rust-oleum just got back to me there Multi textured spray paint Is a Solvent-based acrylic. They said I could use a clear enamel over it. Does that sound about right to you? And the also said that depending on the color that use I should paint an under coat dark or light so I don't have to use as much texture paint to cover. Sound about right to you Well If so Please let me know. Thanks I really want to get this guitar done Seems like I've been working on this thing for ever. again thank you!
That sounds correct. I think I've probably done that before actually.
The texture paint usually isn't super opaque, so finding a similar colour to use as a base coat can save you some time.
Love the videos. I'm pretty much a noobie to refinishing my own guitar. You inspired me to do it and I chose a Dupli Color Bahama Blue finish on a Squier Jazz Bass project. But man I'm really struggling with blotchy looking paint coats. Haven't clear coated yet and trying to figure out how to fix before I move forward. I'm certain the clear coat won't fix a very uneven looking paint finish. Light sand, clean, and re-coat? I worry sanding could ruin the metallic properties of the paint. Is it my technique? Could it be a chemical reaction? I lightly scuffed (320 grit) a smooth almost new matte white finish and used as a primer basically. Could it be weather related? I'm in Alabama and the weather has actually been fairly mild honestly, but maybe a bit humid as always. I'm working in an enclosed shed. I've gone through three cans of paint trying to work this out so far. Wish I could share a picture on RUclips. I appreciate your help!
Sometimes getting metallic paint to look even over a white base can be difficult. I would consider sanding it back and applying an opaque blue base coat. Then coming in with the metallic paint overtop.
@@BradAngove Thanks. I'll try that and report back.
ok but how different REALLY would the sound be if you painted an acoustic? I have a pos cheap acoustic that i really want to paint.
I've honestly never tried it to find out.
Excellent video.
Gorgeous colour, been thinking about painting my bike orange next summer and was on the lookout for a base colour.
Would that rustoleum be your go to for something like a bike? I will be using primer for sure and probably a poly clear over the base.
Also as a random note, Crown royal rye won whiskey of the year, i am pretty surprised.
Have you been able to try it? Really hard to find in the lcbos in Toronto for me, always sold out.
+PeetPrime Thanks Peet. I like this colour, but honestly, spray cans aren't really my go to for any paint job. I would be a bit worried about using these "high performance" enamels with a polyurethane clear coat over them.
That is a bit surprising. I haven't had a chance to pick up the rye yet. I heard about it, but couldn't find any. Or it was too expensive; I can't really remember.
+PeetPrime just keep in mind....poly dries to a yellow tint, but on orange....it'll probably turn out okay.
+Petar Bogdanov Minwax gloss polyurethane in the spray or rub on.
+Gene Swicegood Using Varathane water based clear poly and dont have tinting problems (mabe a bit white if you build it up enough). I spay the clear using a gun. I really like using the water polys since they are so forgiving and easy to cleanup (i dont think I use any paint thinners in the entire process which is nice).
If you have any advice let me know. I may look into an orange duplicolor or something since they are meant for cars so im guessing it should be ok on bikes.
+Suyankii I'm always learning...Brad is more qualified for the advice....GREAT fella too
honestly, I can't say I would be the person to ask advice from....I don't want to tell you something wrong
but, if you're like me (born with a BIG question mark above your head)......get yourself "Guitar Player Repair Guide" by Dan Erlewine.....it's worth it's weight in gold, my friend.....
Got mine off ebay for like $12 w/free shipping.
Also, Krylon Lacquer is really good.....says right on the back of the can, "for musical instruments"...the biggest thing with ANY finish (to me anyways) is the drying/cure time.....gotta make sure it's cured.
Have you seen Brad's facebook page??......if so AWESOME.
I got a refinish going on atm on a vintage 1986 Washburn G5V....I plan on posting pics there for Brad's opinion...
he's my teacher (kindda) and his opinions mean a LOT to me.....
Hey man, I recently primed my guitar with rust oleum 249058 white primer. I did sand it down, however, I did not clean it. What do you suggest I should do? Should I start over? Or should I continue with the paint job?
+Ulises Duran you didn't clean the sanding dust off before priming it?
Brad Angove i just wiped what i could with my hand.
+Ulises Duran That's probably ok. As long as your primer doesn't appear to be having any problems.
Oh okay, thanks. The primer seems okay. It is my first paint job so hopefully, it comes out okay.
+Ulises Duran I hope it goes well for you.
So Brad A great big hooray, for you have helped me paint my guitar, les paul copy tks.. :O)
I’m glad to hear the videos were helpful.
Hey Brad, great videos really helping me along with my first build. I have a question as I went with a stain and when trying to clear coat with rub on poly it seemed it was not taking after 3-5 coats. I switched to rustoleum clear coat and having some evenness and getting the entire guitar to take the clear coat. I wet sanded between coats with the clear coat and I just can’t figure it out. I am thinking of sanding it and using this method as it seems like an easier way to finish it and this is my first build so am not overly concerned with using spray instead of better materials and paints. My question is what grit do you recommend me sanding the body down to before starting over with a primer and then spray enamel finish? Thanks for all the videos you do a great job and are very informative!
I would start with 320 grit pre-primer, and then 400 before color.
Are you using the minwax wipe on poly?
Thanks for the info am going to do give that approach a try. I tried that watco rub on poly first and after 6 coats and some light sanding in between couldn’t get it to fully coat evenly or fully take to the body. Then I sanded the clear that did stick down to 400 and switched to spray rustoleum and had the same issues. I am going to sand down to 320 as you mentioned and start over with paints starting with primer. Thanks for the reply Brad and keep up the great informative videos I really enjoy them!
Keep it going! Helping me a lot and pay highline guitars a visit on RUclips great knowledge also. What camera do you use for RUclips?
+Sevenity Guitars Thanks. I just use a little Sony Handycam.
Dude what about painting over barewood without priming??....i want the body to relic in a short time
What do you mean by relic? Are you looking for your paint to yellow, or are you trying to get a bunch of it to chip off?
thinking on paint coming off naturaly with time
If you skip the primer, and you wear through the paint over time, you will be able to see the wood sooner if that's what you're looking for.
Brad Angove thanks brad
You're welcome.
What sandpaper grit did you sand it with?
Probably 320 or 400
I need a copper color that ACTUALLY LOOKS LIKE COPPER. I've used nitro copper from Reranch and it turned out looking like brown metallic. Any advice or places you could send me to get a finish that will relic over time like an old finish? Color has to be copper metallic.
So you want it to start as a metallic copper, and then yellow over time?
I would try Krylon. Go to the Krylon Color Center, Trends 2017.
Is automotive paint equally as easy to use.....Do you have to use 'clear coat' if you do or could it be lacquer? Btw great vids.
Yes, automotive paint generally uses essentially the same process. You can use lacquer clear if you paint is also lacquer based, but you should probably use a compatible automotive clear if you're using automotive paints on your guitar.
thanks!!!
You're welcome.
Hey Brad, seeing as you didn't use a primer or a sealer, did you have any trouble with the paint soaking into the wood? I'm always dubious about painting directly onto bare wood even if I'm happy with the grain showing through
I don’t understand why there would be a concern with the paint soaking into the wood if you’re ok with the grain showing through? It depends on the wood type of course, but that’s mostly for aesthetics.
Brad Angove great shout! Cheers
how long are you going to wait before doing the second coat?
I waited 10-15 minutes between coats. I waited a couple days between colours.
At the beginning gyou said you were going to do it the "right way" but then you go on to talk about the things you should do, but aren't .
Awesome Job! 🎸☠️🎸👍
Thank you.
brad you need to drill holes in that broomstick handle.
+tom d You mean before putting s screw through it and splitting it?
+Brad Angove yeah! LOL one day those screws might rip right out while you are spinnin your fresh paint job and loose it,then start all over .
+tom d ive been watching these vidoes becuasce im designing alternate strat pickguards and will be painted my first test body in hammertone silver under a black and silver tortoise guard. the body is not 100percent perfect and i dont care but id like it to look interesting for pictures anyway. thanks for the good videos much more enjoyable to watch than some others.
Oh man, if that thing broke right off of the stand while I was painting it I think everyone would find it hilarious. You'd be like "well, I saw that coming".
I'm glad you've enjoyed the videos. Hammered finish paints hide some of the small imperfections in stuff anyway. Good choice.
Acrilic sprays is okey?
Yes. These are acrylic.
So it's better to spray paint an acoustic guitar then vs using, say, the swirl method? :p
Yes, because you don't want to get it wet. It's also better to use lacquer or a similar thin finish rather than the enamels I sprayed in this video.
Hi, you are doing very good videos ! I have a question: Is it possible to do a chameleon effect with spraycans? If yes, could you please do a tutorial video of it? Thanks :)
+SchnickFitz3l It is possible. I will definitely do that.
Thank you very much!!
+SchnickFitz3l You're welcome.
A nice job, I find it looking pro....👍🤘
Thank you.
Hey Brad, I've been watching your videos and just started my Strat refinish project by stripping the poly finish off. Now I'm deciding between polyurethane and nitrocellulose lacquer for the finish. Not sure if there's an appreciable difference between the two in the end result though. How do you clean the body after sanding is done before priming? Is a sealer necessary? I'm planning on using a white primer with an Olympic White top coat. Not sure if I'll clear over the finish coat though. Thoughts? Thanks! -Will
+dieselyeti Hi Will. I clean the body using wax and grease remover. There are many difference between poly and nitro. I believe I have a video specifically on the topic of poly vs nitro. If you've just removed the poly, the body is likely already sealed. Unless you used paint stripper to do it, in which case you may have removed the sealer. I tend to use some kind of sealer or primer before painting, but no necessarily both sealer and primer. If you're using a poly, you will need to clear over the colour coat to protect it.
+Brad Angove This was a thick polyester coating put on a cheap Mexican Fender. I've watched several of your vids and know the difference between nitro lacquer and polyester, but wasn't 100% sure which way to go. Seeing as it's a cheap guitar made with cheaper wood maybe polyurethane is the best. But that must be sanded between color coats, right?
That sounds like a reasonable choice. Poly is more durable, and faster to apply. I never sand between colour coats of poly. Instead, I apply the coats after the appropriate re-coat time so that they bond chemically. I re-coat immediately after the paint has flashed off, well before it would be dry enough to sand. If you let it dry too long, then you need to let it cure and sand it before coating again.
Okay, how long between applying each coat of polyurethane? Does that finish dry hard enough to not need clear? What do you mean by paint flashing off?
Time between coats depends on the product. It should come with a technical data sheet that will provide that information. It's generally about 10 minutes.
You will need a clear coat over top if you're using poly.
Flashing off is what it's called when the paint dries to the point where it is no longer wet, but is still tacky. It's the preliminary drying that needs to occur prior to re-coating. You add your next coat once the paint has flashed off (the appropriate percentage of the solvents have evaporated), but before it has dried.
What brand of paint
This was Rustoleum.
why dont you use primer?
There's really no need for it in these circumstances. Primer is intended mostly to make it easier to paint things that paint doesn't stick to properly, like bare metal.
Big swole!
gonna sound like an idiot here, bit if I'm painting an acoustic do I still sand it down before painting, sorry if it's a dumb question, just wanna do it right
Yes, you still need to sand it. I also highly recommend you don't use enamel spray cans on your acoustic. I did a video series where I painted an acoustic if you're interested.
Brad Angove what kind of spray cans would you recommend?
In general? Nitrocellulose lacquer. More specifically, I just did a demo with Behlen's guitar finishing kit, which is designed for acoustics even though I used it on an electric, and it is awesome. I'm not sure what kind of paint job you're going for, but you might want to check out that series.
Brad Angove I appreciate the help, and yea I plan on checking out those videos, just gathering the needed supplies, and I am messing around with making an evh striped guitar, lucky I got a cheap guitar to practice on, so no worries if I mess up alittle
Nice. I actually have a tutorial coming out right away here where I do a frankenstrat style paint job.
do you even lift bro?
Not anymore haha. If you look at some of my much older videos you might be able to guess that I used to. Why do you ask?
what do you mean by scuff it a little?
+Aidan Tegeler I mean sand it slightly to roughen the surface enough for the paint to stick properly.
+Brad Angove OK thanks, great video
Thank you.
Hi😍😍😍
Ur awsome :)
+shaiza khalid Thank you. That's kind of you.
I can't think of a more wise person to ask about these paints so here goes. I have a can of Touch 'n Tone that I love the green of, a great red by Deruato and some clear coat by Krylon ColorMaster. I plan on repainting a really cheap Chinese guitar I bought for the hell of it when I started learning about fretting. $67 and it's almost there, but I hate the blue paint, though it's not terrible, I figure it'll make a proper surface to practice a burst on. I'm a cancer survivor and Army vet, so cash is profoundly tight atm, though the Army has nothing to do with my poverty, that's all the cancer, having lost 2/3rds of my tongue, I can't exactly get back to sales or retail management. (when they replace your tongue meat with under chin skin and the hair grows wild until the radiation finally kills it, that's a weird place to live, literally, fuck me, I'm drowning in hair that suddenly grows 20 times faster than it did in a beard!) Anyhow, am I better forgoing these sprays and just getting the car paints? Will they stay soft like they seem to on my pickguards as I've used them or is there some sort of catalyst that will stiffen them up. I thank you for you time and your opinions. When I can get back to a somewhat normal income, I'll be joining your pay channel, I'm just a bit screwed at the moment.
I’m not familiar with those specific cans (except the krylon). Can you tell me what type of paint they are? You may well be able to use those in conjunction with an automotive clear coat to get a nice hard finish.
No need to join the paid thing. The additional content is quite minimal. As I said when I first introduced it, it’s mostly just to help support the input costs associated with these videos.
@@BradAngove WOW Brad, that was crazy quick of a response. Thanks for the answer. Not for anything, but I'm subscribed and have my bell on. Love your vids. All I have to do is get rid of my step daughter, she's dragging her heels, but then I'll have a room to work in with good ventilation. She gets really mad when I spray paint in there while she's sleeping, though it doesn't actually break my heart (she's kind of an a-hole) Soon, it'll be my room again. I'll post if I ever do anything interesting. I'd be sure to give props to you, I wouldn't have the balls to do any of it without your vids.
On another topic, would it be difficult to paint a faux binding? Would I fold a piece of metal and glue in a piece of felt, or is there already something out there to do something like that with?
I’m not sure what you mean about the folded meta and felt.
@@BradAngove not a big deal Brad. I was just thinking I could make a device for some felt so I could drag a paint line along the edge, to emulate a wraparound binding. My hesitation would be that every time I add more paint, it'd glob up. I'd rather try paint than actually have to route a guitar as I don't normally do this. I know I could get any color of binding I'd like. But that just leaves me cold with fear of f'ing it up. I'd be afraid I'd screw up the guitar rather than end up with a really cool look. I fell in love with the Gibson Black Widow, but since they only made 25 of them, and that's forever out of my price range, I figured I could mod one of my ebony guitars with a red inlay look.
Oh, I see. I would just paint the area, tape off a “binding” and then spray over it. When you peel the tape it leaves behind the old colour, which is the binding.
Nice brother but side direct is not
you could be the doppleganger of retired UFC fighter-now-analyst Kenny Florian. (guy on the far right) instagram.com/p/BGIY3UbyScA/?taken-by=kennyflorian
Haha I never noticed that before.
Eddie Van Halen spray painted his guitar, I don't think it affected his sound too much
Why does he always seem angry in his videos?
I’m just a grumpy guy haha. I like to think I come across a little more upbeat in my more recent work.
Side difeact is not
Side what?
Brad Angove I have also guitar but guitar colour is red but red colour guitar me not like
Brad Angove what I can do it guitar sapry paint any side difect is not
Brad Angove my favorite colour in guitar nevi blue and yellow
Brad Angove plz tell me
here's a tip, don't shake cans up and down, you want the ball to stir in the bottom. just shake it in circles like you're using it to whisk eggs