This is, by far, the best explanation I have seen on RUclips for the "big 3" up grade. STRAIGHT and TO THE POINT. I'm going to do it this weekend. Hopefully, this solves my charging issues.
My 93 K1500 had the same issue. Good job on your set up. I fixed mine by just cleaning the grounds, but I'm gonna do the Big three with 4 AWG If you have ANY vehicle that you are having flakey computer issues, clean your grounds.
Nice Job Philly...!! Great video, too! The most common undiagnosed issue on anything... high resistance, intermittent, or no (bad) ground(s). Boat trailers, boats, cars, planes, trains, IT... you name it!
Well, so far this is the best answer to my truck problem, I'm having a 2002 Sierra 1500 engine 4.8 i guess, has a low voltage problem and dancing gauges and hardly starts after 2-3 attempts. I was planning to equip it with a 130 amp alternator to power up a dual electric fans but i think it wouldn't be necessary. Please correct me if that's true or not. My fans assembly still not installed I'm waiting some expert advice like you. Thank you 🌹
Me personally, I would definitely upgrade the alternator and upgrade the wires (as I explained in this video)... the cost of doing so is cheap and will save yourself alot headaches down the road. With the stock alternator and factory wiring, you might run into charging issues with electric dual fans.
Just picked a 92 blazer and not even a week later it started doing this exact thing, I tried cleaning up all the grounds and no luck, going to try this next, hopefully it fixes my issue 🤞🏽
Been having this issue...already have the Big three with Zero Gauge Wire and Copper Studs, two fairly new AGM Big stereo Batteries both charged to 100%. Start my truck up just fine drive around fine then maybe stop at a read light and needle starts going down and slowely goes back up. little draw or big draw makes no difference needle just goes down and back on its own??
I wanted to give a like but is already at 420 and I don’t wanna be a jack ass so I will just tell you myself that I liked the video and adding new grounds instead of messing with the old ones was bad ass I may try that myself later on this week when I’m off I got a parasitic draw on mine I gotta pin point this weekend but then I will do the grounds thanks for the video.
Me personally...I wanted use nothing under 2 gauge for any connection coming from the battery or engine block. But you can use 12/14 gauge for body to frame connections.
@@AlienGrade if you're super careful, nothing will happen. But if that positive wire touches something it will cause a huge spark and can fry our system. Its not work risking taking 2min to undone the battery
So is this in addition to the positive battery cable? On factory setup, it goes from Positive to Starter and then you got a separate wire that runs to positive on alternator. Do I just leave all original cables on battery and run a separate set the way you showed it? Or, do I remove or replace any cables?
This is, by far, the best explanation I have seen on RUclips for the "big 3" up grade. STRAIGHT and TO THE POINT. I'm going to do it this weekend. Hopefully, this solves my charging issues.
I wish all the other “yewtoob mechanics” were more like you. Concise straight to the point & no BS. Thank you for posting this, great job !!! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
My 93 K1500 had the same issue. Good job on your set up. I fixed mine by just cleaning the grounds, but I'm gonna do the Big three with 4 AWG If you have ANY vehicle that you are having flakey computer issues, clean your grounds.
Nice Job Philly...!! Great video, too! The most common undiagnosed issue on anything... high resistance, intermittent, or no (bad) ground(s). Boat trailers, boats, cars, planes, trains, IT... you name it!
Thank you for the info and God bless you helping me with my project truck
@phillyguru thank you so much. I still have to do the lead from the frame to the engine but I’ve already picked up 2 V. Wow!
Man I’ll owe you a beer or a can of monster if this works for me. Whatever your preference.
Well, so far this is the best answer to my truck problem, I'm having a 2002 Sierra 1500 engine 4.8 i guess, has a low voltage problem and dancing gauges and hardly starts after 2-3 attempts. I was planning to equip it with a 130 amp alternator to power up a dual electric fans but i think it wouldn't be necessary.
Please correct me if that's true or not.
My fans assembly still not installed I'm waiting some expert advice like you.
Thank you 🌹
Me personally, I would definitely upgrade the alternator and upgrade the wires (as I explained in this video)... the cost of doing so is cheap and will save yourself alot headaches down the road. With the stock alternator and factory wiring, you might run into charging issues with electric dual fans.
@@phillyguru6834 thank you so much for replying 🙏🌹.
Then
I'm going for it.
Fixing try this on my 91 silverado. Thnx for the info.
@@trailingarkansas7273 How did the big 3 fix work for ya? I've got an '88 Silverado with low voltage.
@@eYeZiQ it worked great. Also replaced my ground straps which fixed my low oil pressure issue
Just picked a 92 blazer and not even a week later it started doing this exact thing, I tried cleaning up all the grounds and no luck, going to try this next, hopefully it fixes my issue 🤞🏽
Good video. I have an '89 suburban that I did the big 3, late model 140 am alternator and dual fan setup from an 06 suburban. Works great.
Thanks, super super great and simple explanation. 👍
Been having this issue...already have the Big three with Zero Gauge Wire and Copper Studs, two fairly new AGM Big stereo Batteries both charged to 100%. Start my truck up just fine drive around fine then maybe stop at a read light and needle starts going down and slowely goes back up. little draw or big draw makes no difference needle just goes down and back on its own??
I have the same issues on my 03 Yukon 8m gonna try this out
So there 2 negative coming from the the battery to the front of the engine block
Is that pure copper or copper clad aluminum 0 guage wire?
thank god for you my friend
I wanted to give a like but is already at 420 and I don’t wanna be a jack ass so I will just tell you myself that I liked the video and adding new grounds instead of messing with the old ones was bad ass I may try that myself later on this week when I’m off I got a parasitic draw on mine I gotta pin point this weekend but then I will do the grounds thanks for the video.
Thank you brother, this fixed my issue
Einstein Healthcare Application Support your welcome
Great, thanks. Will check the grounds
Did this solve your issue? Thanks
I only get that problem when I turn on the ac. Is it the ground or the alternator?
I'm having the same problem did you did anything to fix it?
Did you fix the gas gauge??
Dang man !!! I’m going to do that ASAP!!! Thanks
Cool video 👍
Thanks man the video helped me out
Grounding out your alternator will do big things also.
Do you need 0 gauge tho?
Me personally...I wanted use nothing under 2 gauge for any connection coming from the battery or engine block. But you can use 12/14 gauge for body to frame connections.
You the man bro. Thank you!
Make sure y'all disconnect the battery before making that alternator connection
What happens if you do not? Had a guy change my alternator did not disconnect battery!
@@AlienGrade if you're super careful, nothing will happen. But if that positive wire touches something it will cause a huge spark and can fry our system. Its not work risking taking 2min to undone the battery
Thanks
Genius
So basically, you don’t even have to worry about where the ground fault is because you can bypass and correct it with this method???
Correct, in my case I didn't touch none of the original grounds
So is this in addition to the positive battery cable? On factory setup, it goes from Positive to Starter and then you got a separate wire that runs to positive on alternator. Do I just leave all original cables on battery and run a separate set the way you showed it? Or, do I remove or replace any cables?
Good looking my nigga🤟🏾💯💯💯💯
Hagan esto, y se le terminan todas las fallas "raras" a estas p.up