DIY How to Make a PCV Oil Catch Can -
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
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This is a DIY video tutorial on how to make a PCV Oil Catch Can. This helps reduce the amount of oil that gets blown back into the intake manifold through the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system. WARNING: Do all modifications at your own risk! I am not responsible for any damages you incur to your own vehicle!
Parts list:
Air Compressor Filter - $15
1/4" by 1/4" Brass Male Barbs (2) - $1.50 each
1/4" - 5/8" Hose Clamps (4) - $0.79 each
Fuel Line / Hose (2 feet) - $4 per foot
Teflon Tape or Paste - $3
Steel Wool Pad - $1.50
TOTAL COST = $34
Great idea! I bought the exact one but made a few changes to the design. For one I replaced the filter with a tube of the same size and made several holes at the bottom of it. I'm also running the base in the opposite direction of flow (not following the arrow), the reason for this is that u want to vacuum from the high point, and let heavy oil drop to the bottom as it flows down through the tube/baffle (remember these things were design to flow with pressure and separate condensation), if u follow the arrow u can/might ingest oil as it passes by the baffle.
All these comments that say to leave the brass filter are trippin! That brass filter was made to seperate water out of compressed air (from an air compressor). The micron size is waaay to small to be useful for a catch can (it would clog almost instantly). The brass filters in the expensive catch cans are a lot different than this one. It was a good choice to remove the brass filter from it. I recently just made one similar. I drilled holes in the brass filter and left it in as an extra baffle lol. (Just had to add my 2 cents) lol great video man!
A number of small holes to prevent the steel wool from getting into the engine.
First great idea love it. a small compact oil catch can. i swapped my big ugly catch can for one like yours. i kept the bronze filter since it helps separate moisture from the air. and added a bit of steel wool. i used clear reinforced nylon hose to see how much would get by and practically nothing. Thank you for this geniuses idea.
i made one like this one except i bought the oil and water separator at the harbor freight and i kept the brass filter in it adding a little steel wool, drove my truck about 50 miles after the installation and it has a little bit of oil in it
i made two one for my truck and one for my wife's car cost about the price as one
Javier Beltran Nice! :)
Did your brass filter look like the one in the video? I'm worried if the oil will break it down and get sucked into the engine
Something to note about DYI catch can building. After running my car in the Texas heat, the underhood components all get hot enough to burn skin like a stovetop. With that said many plastics not design for high temps may not hold up like the bowl on your air compressor moisture filter. Also to, a proper oil catch can needs to typically be mounted with approx 2 ft - 3 ft of hose away from source so the heated gas carrying the oil vapor, water vapor and other contaminates like sulfer has the time to cool down and become more viscous. If not cooled slightly its more likely to not condense and thereby be collected in reservoir of catch can. If the matter flowing thru catch can is still in super heated vapor form it will likey pass right thru a lower quality specific catch can.
A crazy amounts of carbon buildup on intake valves and black oily goo inside the intake chamber can happen quickly in a direct injection engines and more so for forced induction engines. As little as 12-15k miles on a new engine without a oil catch can will likely lead to lower performance, rougher engine opporation and lower fuel economy.
Great video and resourceful idea. and man you’re much better at explaining things than you give yourself credit for!
I've been using these water separator filters as catch cans since the 80s,,but the larger one,I leave the bronze filter and separator plate in as well,,,,and I fill the bottom of can up to separator with 3/8 marbles,,I bet u found that can filled up in a week,good vid
Dude you and this method is genius! Saves me tons of money cuz finding "certified" a oil catch can for my 95 Chevy Camaro! Thanks a ton man!
Thank you for the compliment :)
Also what's the update on it so far? How well is it doing?
+zack wayne Just taking a bit of a break. Been working out deals for various parts
if using a air compressor filter (like he did) there are two rubber O-rings that should be replaced before using, as the gas&oil mixture being collected will eat them and you will develop an air leak. replace the Rubber rings with Viton rings.
Hmm, I will look into that. Thanks!
Great thinking... after 4000 miles on my 2017 Camaro 2.0L Turbo. It’s time to get serious about a catch can setup. I don’t want to have problems down the road....LOL... with my engine. I splurged on the double can Mitshimoto, for $400.00 but it comes with Red custom tubing. But I’m going to do your set up on my 2000 Toyota Solara 2.2L non Turbo. Awesome idea!! Thank you for taking time to do a video.
Great video! Extremely informative. Thank you so much for making this! Keep up the awesome work
You're welcome!
You're almost there. The clear container needs to be a few inches longer. The intake side needs to extend to the bottom of the container. This will allow the oil to condense back into a liquid and sit in the container.
What you have now will just pass the oil mist back into the engine.
Use that filter it's very good for separating air and oil. The expensive Mishimoto catch cans use that type of filter. 😉
@I S S he said to use the filter instead of removing it. Reading is hard.
Oh my God installed mine yesterday what a difference amazing like a brand new car and no more oil on my driveway gas mileage improvement up to a 💯 percent just happy as a lark that's all I can say .
Thank you very much for the compliment! I wish a lot more folks felt the same way 😁👍
@@winstonbuzon man I just think about all the people that don't realize that they need to do this and then they wonder why car runs the way it does and why mechanic is handling them.
+Winston Buzon (DubEezy)
One more VERY IMPORTANT thing I forgot to mention, the RUBBER O-ring that you said not to lose, actually needs to be lost and replaced with a Viton O-ring of the same dimensions. Along with the oil and other gasses, there will be gasoline/petrol vapors, flowing through the PCV system that will break down that rubber O-ring. Might as well just replace it as your building your catch can, save yourself some trouble down the road. Ok enough from me. Thanks for the upload!
Make sure to use gas compliant Teflon tape and i would change the o-rings for fuel ones cause fuel vapors from blow by will eat them up!!!
I probably would have mounted it to the front of the car, or a cooler place under the hood to aid in condensing the oil to a more liquid form, making it physically easier for the filter to catch.
The first part actually really helps with installing the lines
Good video you explained it all me personally, I would’ve used the original hose and just made a gap in the middle for the catch can, but that’s just me
Man my prius keeps sucking up puddles of oil. So bad it threw a o2 sensor check engine light. and sometimes it makes the spark plugs misfire. So every month or so i have to take apart the throttle body and clean out the intake soak up the puddle and all. its a real pain. This Idea is gonna be my life saver for real! Thank you so much!
Oh yea, Guys don't forget to replace the rubber O-Rings inside the separator with Viton O-Rings They are orange colored. Because The black O-Rings are not compatible with the fuel vapor that will be entering the collection cup. If you use the original black and blue O-Rings over time the gasoline will disintegrate them and you will have a vacuum leak and possibly a check engine light. Also make sure your rubber hoses are gas and oil compatible as well. Otherwise they will disintegrate too.
Lakario Davis And if you get the one with the valve at the bottom you will have to seal it with RTV because remember this is meant for high pressure. Your Pcv valve pipe will have vacuum on it. So the stop in the valve won't be strong enough to keep it liquid tight.
+Lakario Davis Change your PCV valve. It should solve you oil problem.
Thank you. Ive replaced the pcv valve twice. no luck.
Same here; Prius just sucks oil on my 2006 Gen II; this will definitely help.
I used a slightly larger compressor air filter (from a large Home Improvement store), I left the filter element installed and put some stainless steel scrub material in the bottom of the filter housing. When I started the car I noticed vacuum suction on the bottom of the drain valve even though the valve was turned to the off position. This is because the valve opens under vacuum and sucks air, but the valve closes with pressure. I just used a rubber vacuum line plug to not allow air to be pulled in through the bottom of the filter.
I was looking for a baffle style catch can but decided to do this routed in line with my catch can to insure the vapors get separated... does this actually work?... also to the guy that says the pcv line should be bigger it doesn't matter... as long as u use the same size that was used for ur motors application it will fine.... Ive ran 3/8 hose on two motors with a catch can setup and track, drift, beat my motor it doesn't matter vac source is a vac source. Ur motor doesn't actually vent pressure correctly no matter what blow by is common and if u really wanted to be efficient u would add 4 breathers to ur valve cover instead of to vent blow by truly and have ur pcv connected to a vac source the pcv works on vac source look up the design online... thanks for the awesome catch can idea
kinda late now,, but you should have retained the bronze air filter.. and that was nit 'steel wool' but copper' cooking pot ' pad.. in this case a better choice than ' steel wool
really nice diy. always wanted to do this but thought itd be pointless. and for the looks of it, this might just be a good upgrade to a mild stock engine to keep good, strong, and even more reliable. big thumbs up.
Thank you! I appreciate the feedback! :)
nice idea, now you can see it work
Ohhhh! Because VTEC!
Great breakdown on install and items needed.
Shoulda left the small filter for double baffle action. The expensive catch cans come with it anyway, so no sense in removing, but awesome idea my bro, wish id seen this before spending 45$ on mine 😅
Thanks
COOP
...
MISTAKE!!!! Leave the original filter in there. Its a 5 micron filter and will work better than any other filter (steel wool) ever will. The steel wool just acts like a baffle keeping the crap from sloshing out.
Very nicely done
Thanks!
Just made one but it was a 2 stage can used a GROZ air sintered bronze filter with 1/2" fitting as to allow more flow of air to prevent back pressure used it as it is to allow the separation oil and air to be more effective with the centrifugal flow provided by the FAN like vanes (a coaeleser filter would be better to effectively separate the air from the oil vapor) and made a home made baffle can as to further remove the remaining mist of oil and installed further away from the engine because of all that heat it might actually melt the polycarbonate bowl on the filter and workrs great.......
MCDC MCDC post a video!
I wish they made a bigger one.
Thanks for that Winston.
Where is the catch can update?
i am working on the same component but i want to keep the brass filter, but i am not sure about the flow restriction as this is vacuum line of crank case ventilation where i would fix the catch can. thanks.
This is cool and compact, but if you want to do it a bit cheaper and get everything in a kit, just get a kit from ebay, its big but adds a lot of JDM bling bling.
Awesome video bro. Keep it up.
Thank you
Did you ever do a follow up video
djsweetnlow2003 Not yet
don't rush the guy, if he says he'll post a follow up then he will, no need to keep reminding him every few years...
@@anunnakielohim2727 lol
Thanks, great video. I need to put one in my M10 engine cause the air filter gets a lot of oil on it. Have a great day....
Why u removed the stock oil filter to add a steel wool?
great video ! keep it up
the cheapest and easiest way is to use a fuel filter. after 2 months it still works fine on a Mitsubishi Colt plus. you can clean and Re-use it. apart from the manifold the MAP(Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor is kept oil free, oil on the MAP causes inaccurate readings. the result is: bad gas mileage
Hey.
Nice Idea, I think that you should have left the cupper/sponge filter on as it is a very effektive filter..
Saw a video with som hi-brand catch can, that in their can, hat a filter like that, and they had some reasons regarding this, cant remember them, but something with it being a VERY good filter
engish???effective....some...
@@randellgribben9772 First off his comment was 5 almost 6 years ago so if you're not up with the times then don't add your two cents. Secondly looks like no one else cared in the Last 5 Years that he misspelled 2 words in his comment. That I honestly understood and read perfectly fine. I hate comments like yours because not only does it make you look like a damn idiot yourself but it's a complete waste of everyone's time. I hope your little miserable life gets better.
@@randellgribben9772 matter fact you need to go back and read your other comments and see how good your English is before you judge anybody else's just saying you might want to do that.
I routed the PCV line to the air filter box, then plugged the line going in to the intake manifold. It still vents, and any oil that spews out finds a home in the bottom of the air filter box. Only 1 fitting to buy, and yes, I had to drill in to the plastic air filter box.
Just for the record, the hole for the PCV line is below the air filter, so any crud that comes out will (worst case) get sucked in to the air filter.
So this is what Hector from fast n furious is doing these days
😅
excellent
Nice Video my friend...You're a Natural !
I actually have a 2002 Honda Accord 2.3liter engine like the one in this video. After I install the oil catch can do I need to clean my intake manifold?
The small openings and hoses on this setup are inadequate for all but the smallest engines. As your engine ages and produces more blow-by the restrictive size will cause crankcase pressure to build, this will eventually cause gasket failure and oil leaks.
I will definitely make bigger hoses and fittings then :)
Actually you explained it very well. They should've changed the pcv system when they went with direct injection. Before you had the benefit of gasoline spraying the inside of the intake to help keep oil residue to a minimum but now with direct injection the gas is sprayed directly into the cylinder allowing any and all of the pcv vent crap to slowly build up on intake runners the throttle body and really just everywhere on the way to the piston cylinder. I changed my 370z over to catch cans and its great. The entire intake side of the engine stays oil and carbon build up free. Id definatly do it.
I had the same idea, but why change the hose you cut up?Why not just use that hose?
Especially since it didn't need hose clamps.
Do not use fuel line. use transmission oil cooler hose. fuel line will soften over time
100% Correct
Awww sheesh the auto parts store dude gave me fuel line free cuz he was out of everything else 3/8. Nice gesture but suppose I'll need to replace it. I would have thought fuel line would hold up because it's exposed to gasoline
@@sbond1963 correct, the fuel in the lines is what will degrade other types of hoses.
ya lo ise y anda impecable te agradezco el vídeo gracias
+franklin escalona medina You're welcome...? Sorry I didn''t understand the whole sentence but I saw the "gracias"
He said: I just did this and it works without a flaw, thanks for the video.
blowby is manly spent gasses, it leaks past piston rings and goes into oil pan and works it way up to valve cover, cars with bad piston rings have lots of blowby, just thougt you should know
Excellent! Like I said, I'm not a technical guy, but I sure am glad someone here is! Definite thumbs up from me! :D
you have to put your mini oil catch tank in a cold place not near the heat of the engine to speed up condensation of the oil vapeur
True, but it has also been suggested that the catch can should be as close to the source as possible to lessen the excess oil travel so that the line won't clog up
Nice DIY! Did you make an update video on this? Will this work on a Neon Srt-4?
If your vehicle has a PCV line, it would definitely help out a lot :)
Awesome, well done!
Awesome video. Really helped me.
I have 2 water separators in a row for extra filtration. I leaft the filters in.
You're welcome. :)
Awesome video, great job young man, just bought my first dual turbo engine f150, l understood your directions and why it's so important to use a catch can with a turbo, if blow by happens on a Honda as well built a exact as they are, better have it on my Ford 2.7
your 2.7 might be a gdi engine.. this engine is a port fi...... gdi motors need this to keep carbon off the back of the valves
Great idea!
This does not work (with the new air compressor drier at HD) as the system will pull a vacuum and pull the plunger at the bottom of the canister. They changed the design since this video was posted. You have to attach another tube to the bottom of the new model and a shut off valve.
Im all for DIY and this is awesome, but as far as budget is concerned, you can get a purpose built catch can for $16 on ebay, just add the steel wool. Gj though!
Good video, I made one similar to yours for my 08 silverado. It did fine at low speed but highway driving seemed to fill up the reservoir causing it to smoke on start up. Have you found a way to direct the accumulated oil back into the engine yet?
Thanks
Not yet
Winston Buzon It wouldn't be difficult actually. Since you already have a valve on the bottom, you'd just need to run a line from that valve to a fitting on the oil pan. You would need to drill in to your oil pan, and install a fitting. But that's not overly complicated if you have a little know-how. That would actually make this small style catch can pretty viable.
Hello I had the same problem you have to look up the update value covers that moves the breather plate to the front of the engine so it will not suck up oil. The old value covers breather are in the back.so when you drive gravity feeds PC valve which goes into the intake plenum.
First point of concern - "I'm not a technical guy"
Sorry it took so long to respond, but what I meant was that I'm not a mechanic to boast the right words to use
@@winstonbuzon how did it work out for you? Are you still using it or did you upgrade? How much sludge did it accumulate? And how often did you replace the steel wool?
@@mortysmith5556 haven't had the need to change the steel padding yet, otherwise it's still holding up. But then again, I haven't been pushing my engine hard enough for it to get hot
Can I find all this at home depot?
Tobie Luangkhoth Yes, but the hoses I got from auto parts store
nice video bro!
i wanted your advise as you seem like u no what ur doing
the breather pipe from my car to the rocker cover (vacum sucking) when disconnceted and blocked results in a problem sorted,
ie the cover case end is left open and pipe end blocked makes a high pitched sound go away,
my question is can i drive like this??? engine seems to have great performance?
cheers
Handy Voice Yes, you can. For me, it's just an added peace of mind knowing I will have a cleaner intake manifold and recirculated air
As it's so small, wouldn't that make it necessary to clean, drain it oftener? Pretty sue it would, otherwise a good idea.
I check often
I couldn't even remove the clear reservoir .......installed it without the steel wool. My other issue is a "leak sound", but when I block off the return line, it's quiet, so it's not a leak...it just sounds like it.
+Zeronorhero I may have installed it in the wrong blow direction...lol
So did turning it around fix your issue?
-Many thanks
Nope, bought a Mishimoto catch can instead lol
The one that Engineering explained recommends?
idk, I got the Compact Baffled oil catch can. Added some mishimoto pcv silicone hoses to match my engine bay too.
Oil will eat that gas line and that water separator you took off would have helped keep trash and get any water out of the oil. The oil comes out as a vipe so the part you took off would help grab that out of the air just some tips not hating on it but it will help save your motor in the long run
Unfortunately, the clear polycarbonate catch can material is NOT heat resistance. Typically, clear polycarbonate is not rated for use beyond 125F. But your intended use is inside an engine bay where temps easily reach 250-350F. Often the polycarbonate part will start to discolor and/or crack and eventually just fall apart.
Wow, damn! That's some good info. I'll definitely keep that in mind 😁👍
muy bueno gracias
If you've never had anything in it it's leaking out because it takes pressure to seal the drain.
YOU REMOVED THE SEPARATOR FILTER NOW ITS JUST BYPASSING!
the inlet needs to be below the steel wool and the outlet above this will settle the oil out,
the filter you removed serves as the separator
EXACTLY, I was like wtf?? Keep the filter in there. He removes the separator and the air filter only to leave the "baffle" brillo in? That's not going to separate much....but then again it is a honda. Just blow it up and buy another one for supes cheaps.
There is a tube attached tot he top part of the filter, which goes into the "baffling" he made, for the input. So, what are you talking about???
Tom Champman the "baffle" mainly catches particulates. The filter is what mainly separates oil and water. It's not rocket science
Actually, it is part rocket science!
The filter is not there to filter out water and oil, it's to trap it in place after entering the catch can. The water and air are entering a low pressure area (the catch can) from a high pressure area (the tube into the can). Once in this area, the water and oil particles slow down, from the speed they were going in the high pressure area, and this lets the oil and water (and any large particles) drop down to the bottom of the can. This pressure differential is what separates everything, not a filter.
A simple baffle system will work just fine, as long as there is an open area to allow the pressure differential, so the air can separate from everything else. Gas and oil fumes (not oil mist) will still get through though.
The filter he left out, is to compress the air as it passes through it and basically grabbing the water and oil, letting it drip to the bottom. Same thing that was described above, but done by creating the high and low pressure inside the filter. Now, if he were to keep that filter in there, it would clog up in a 1,000 miles and that would defeat the purpose of that system....
the idea is wonderful, the execution needs to be refines as the flow will bypass the catch can, to be OK, the fumes flow must pass thru the steel wool so this wool will collect the fumes to form droplets and the droplets will collect to form bigger drops that will be not carried by the fumes flow
It's been three years - how's this 'catch can' holding up? It seems too small and the container is not designed for the high heat conditions of an engine bay. The inlet hose needs to be an oil or tranny line because oil will be going through it. Any other hose will eventually start to degrade from the inside out.
Good job bro I like it
Thank you 😁👍
Using this exactly same product was also in my mind.... until I found out it is (plastic can) made of PC (polycarbonate) which can't be use with full synthetic oils. PC plastic melts/dissolves with solvents and syntethic oils. Over time It starts to fade, get sticky and becomes fragile.
Actually exactly that WARNING is written on the side of can.
X-)
Nice H series engine
Jeff Weaver Thanks! :)
Why didn’t you just use the stock hose you had the fit looking right and why take the filter out crammed steal wire in there takes up the volume you need to catch the oil
can I easily adapt this into a oil water separator??
Nice idea, but you have to take into account that the materials used for an air compressor installation are not designed for high heat of an engine and the plastics will either melt , distort, or become brittle and porous over time only creating more and worse problems. Also if that device should ever clog you will blow your engine . Be careful .
I am, and I don't my engine hard all the time, but yes, I will always keep an eye out for it :)
Just curious, did you see any problems when you reduced the flow of the PCV to the intake from 3/8" to 1/4"? It would seem that a 50% reduction in the flow would increase the crankcase pressure by adding an increased restriction in the line. Also, where did you find a filter that does not have a normally open drain for high pressure rather than the normally closed one you would need to maintain the negative pressure created by the vacuum in that line? Was the stop cock already on the filter, and if so what brand was it?
No noticable difference or problems. The stopcock was already built in
Nice vid bro... I installed one of these on my maxima but..... Is the filter suppose to take in air from the release valve/Bladder.. Basically if I put my hand under the (Black) release valve It sucks my finger like a vacuum, is that suppose to be open when engine turns on. (all other lines show no leaks) Connected from PCV to ---> (In) to Intake Manifold (out)---->Thanks
MadvexLion Yes
Nice one Winston. I need to check the PCV on my old Toyota. It looks the same as the one on your video. It's plastic and seems just push in? How to remove it? I pulled the top off and nearly lost the spring. But do I just lever the bottom half out of the Rocker cover? Thanks again.
ron martin Mhg Just ease it off slowly and carefully. These things can break easily, depepnding on the type of material (usually hard plastic) because of the underhood heat.
back to the fam... coz thats what pinoys do. tehehe
شكرا جزيلا
Nice work but this isn't the best container to use. By removing the filter you make it easier for oil to skip across the upper ports and get sucked in. The filter was a baffle. Also the wool takes up too much space in the container so you end up having to empty the oil more.
Llia Olsen so is it best to leave that filter in?
fox8you 89 Filter is a filter, and it doesn't do much to reduce the sloshing of accumulated fluids, in my honest opinion...
Need link to filter assembly
Was a follow up video ever made?
Not yet
Couldn't you just plug a fuel filter in if your doing it that way?
The plastic will fail because the air is too hot coming from the crankcase if you want to keep the oil out your intake then a catch can not plastic is a great way of doing so..... but a plastic canister is not ideal in the long run it will fail the plastic cant take all that hot ass air and oil flow
Nice Video!!!
Just a little correction that doesn't affect your video but....
A PCV is a Positive Crankcase Ventilation as you said... It reliefs pressure from the crankcase, not valvetrain.
The Blow-by air is actually compression gases leaking through the piston rings downwards to the crankcase.
Cool! Good to know! I told you I wasn't a technical guy... :P
3/8 minimum brass connector
Cool, thank you!
Winston Buzon saludo desde venezuela tengo un optra de chebrolet se puede hacer lo mismo con mi auto y si no consigo ese mismo filtro que utilizo como sale en el video que puedo utilizar .
Good tip, but will filter melts ? Thanks for the video
I ran it just to be sure, but no problems so far
Because V-TEC :-D I was trying to find a home made oil catch tank manual... and then the V-TEC kicked in yo :-D
Lol!
اعتقد ان حرارة المحرك ستؤثر على العلبة بالمستقبل
I wish I could translate this...
I am thinking in something... Can the steel wool be replaced with sponge or anything like that?? That absorbs the oil
Worth a try...
I use glass and marbles,,,all u need is a sort of medium for the oil to attach to,,plus I use a larger filter housing
After 7 months im here to talk about the Oil Catch Can, It doesnt really need a filter, It came with a corkscrew one... And the Oil sits in the reservoir, simple as that
If i keep the brass filter, will it a little bit clogging the air flow? Thanx bro...
It shouldn't
@@winstonbuzon what shouldn't? The brass filter or the clogging air flow?
@@jonichin4661 shouldn't clog air flow
@@winstonbuzon i see. I just made my own one. I stil kept the brass filter and don't use steel wool. I feel my car a little bit "heavy", you know what i mean with heavy.
Isn't it cheaper to just buy a complete one with cone filter fo €6 In eBay.