Great video. Good commentry. Your frustrated comments made me smile as I am doing my belt now. Access on these cars is horrendous. especially if you have large hands. Mine is almost off but given up for today before I take a sledge hammer to it.
Hi Steve! Thank you for your kind words. Sometimes it is indeed best to take a breather, and get back to it when your nerves have cooled down. All the best with your cam belt change! You know what they say: installation is reverse of removal! :-) All downhill from there.
Hi Geoff, Excellent set of videos. One comment on the starter: I loosen the starter's bottom nut and bolt by attacking it from the other end. I do put a ring spanner on the nut and then use the racket with an extension on the bolt end. You do have use your hand to get the socket onto the bolt head but there is enough room for a racket. Something to think about for next time.
I am really struggling to find tdc. I align it with the crank to the correct position but the cams are just off. The engine turns freely enough and is not hitting any valves or anything. Would I be able to get the crank to tdc and then realign the cams with the belt off?
Hi James, Sounds like the belt has slipped a tooth or two, but are you quite sure you got the timing marks correctly? (check out 0:28) There are two sets, and you need to align the crank with the second marking. If the belt did slip, you should be able to reset the timing with the belt off however. I would suggest getting the camshafts in the correct position first, lock them in position with the tool, then remove the belt and back the crank off slightly past TDC, then find TDC by rotating in the engine's usual direction. I hope the valves aren't bent... :-( Good luck!
I hope they're not too. Yes It is the second marker. I believe it has slipped a tooth. To clarify, cylinder 1 (the closest to the belt should be at the top)?
@@jamesgreen4689 I think that the crankshaft pulley mark is actually TDC -90°, so all your pistons would be level, about halfway up. *I think*. I would have to double check in the workshop manual.
Using the cam and crankshaft locking tools is a must before removing the belt tensioner. Check that the marks are aligned when putting it all back together, adjust the tensioner and perform two revolutions of the crankshaft carefully by hand. If all the marks align, you are good to proceed to putting it all back together. If not, start again. And if all else fails, bring it to a professional mechanic. Best of luck!
Hello. They are properly aligned. Inlet camshaft has the 'IN' marking on the inlet side, exhaust camshaft has the 'EXHAUST' marking towards the exhaust side. What manual are you using?
@@alaindesserre5654 The one with the blue cover? The very best. Follow what it says to the letter, and you will be good. I can't remember why I did it this way. Since the ratio in between crankshaft and camshaft is 2:1 (two revolutions of the crank for one of the cam), I was 360° off using the method in the video. Even though the manual says the opposite, both are technically correct and safe to use. Just make sure to check the alignment of everything once you are finished, take your time and check twice if you have to. Have fun! 🙂
@@alaindesserre5654 yes, absolutely. This procedure specifically states that the crankshaft is positioned 90° BTDC (Before Top Dead Center). That positions all pistons halfway up their bores. It is unusual, but all marks correspond to this position.
In that case, you would want to get piston n°1 half way up a stroke, that way you can safely rotate the camshafts without having pistons and valves come into contact with one another. Then rotate the camshaft pulleys with a spanner until you manage to align the marks, lock them in place, bring your n°1 piston up to TDC and lock that in place, then place your belt. Before starting the engine, it will be worth checking compressions if the belt has snapped. It is highly likely that valves are bent and pistons could be damaged. Best of luck!
Hello. If you have renewed cylinder liners, you must apply a 2.0mm bead of Hylomar 'Blue' (original part number GGC102), on the shoulder of the liners. Have fun with your rebuild!
Hi. It depends if you have manual or automatic tensioner, and if you have VVC or not. This is the non VVC, automatic tensioner, and the kit is referenced RP1078.
Intéressant! N'hésitez pas à développer votre tecnique, les internautes apprécieront certainement. Déposer ce démarreur n'est certainement pas le plus chouette moment de la journée. 🙂
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Hi guys I am looking for vvc 1.8 engine rover 75. I am in Zimbabwe
Hi William. Best I can do is pin your comment on top. Hopefully someone will come through with an offer. Best of luck!
Great video. Good commentry. Your frustrated comments made me smile as I am doing my belt now. Access on these cars is horrendous. especially if you have large hands. Mine is almost off but given up for today before I take a sledge hammer to it.
Hi Steve! Thank you for your kind words. Sometimes it is indeed best to take a breather, and get back to it when your nerves have cooled down. All the best with your cam belt change! You know what they say: installation is reverse of removal! :-) All downhill from there.
Hi Geoff, Excellent set of videos.
One comment on the starter: I loosen the starter's bottom nut and bolt by attacking it from the other end. I do put a ring spanner on the nut and then use the racket with an extension on the bolt end. You do have use your hand to get the socket onto the bolt head but there is enough room for a racket. Something to think about for next time.
Thank you for your input! I will bare that in mind, most definitely.
I am really struggling to find tdc. I align it with the crank to the correct position but the cams are just off. The engine turns freely enough and is not hitting any valves or anything. Would I be able to get the crank to tdc and then realign the cams with the belt off?
Hi James, Sounds like the belt has slipped a tooth or two, but are you quite sure you got the timing marks correctly? (check out 0:28) There are two sets, and you need to align the crank with the second marking. If the belt did slip, you should be able to reset the timing with the belt off however. I would suggest getting the camshafts in the correct position first, lock them in position with the tool, then remove the belt and back the crank off slightly past TDC, then find TDC by rotating in the engine's usual direction. I hope the valves aren't bent... :-( Good luck!
I hope they're not too. Yes It is the second marker. I believe it has slipped a tooth. To clarify, cylinder 1 (the closest to the belt should be at the top)?
@@jamesgreen4689 I think that the crankshaft pulley mark is actually TDC -90°, so all your pistons would be level, about halfway up. *I think*. I would have to double check in the workshop manual.
Thanks for your help, much appreciated. Will find out in a few days when I get back to it.
Best of luck @@jamesgreen4689 Let me know how it turns out.
Nice work ! Very clear and cool... ;-)
Thank you, MG Spirit! Much appreciated!
the timing belt removed how to put the shaft pulleys back without making a mistake? THANKS
Using the cam and crankshaft locking tools is a must before removing the belt tensioner. Check that the marks are aligned when putting it all back together, adjust the tensioner and perform two revolutions of the crankshaft carefully by hand. If all the marks align, you are good to proceed to putting it all back together. If not, start again. And if all else fails, bring it to a professional mechanic. Best of luck!
Hello, why on your tutorial the pulley alignment markings are the opposite of the workshop manual? Thank you
Hello. They are properly aligned. Inlet camshaft has the 'IN' marking on the inlet side, exhaust camshaft has the 'EXHAUST' marking towards the exhaust side. What manual are you using?
I use the MGTF WORKSHOP workshop manual which details by diagram after PMH? Is it any good? Thank you@@gmcevoy
@@alaindesserre5654 The one with the blue cover? The very best. Follow what it says to the letter, and you will be good. I can't remember why I did it this way. Since the ratio in between crankshaft and camshaft is 2:1 (two revolutions of the crank for one of the cam), I was 360° off using the method in the video. Even though the manual says the opposite, both are technically correct and safe to use. Just make sure to check the alignment of everything once you are finished, take your time and check twice if you have to. Have fun! 🙂
your help is precious, question? in this position the 4 pistons are at the same height, is this normal? thank you@@gmcevoy
@@alaindesserre5654 yes, absolutely. This procedure specifically states that the crankshaft is positioned 90° BTDC (Before Top Dead Center). That positions all pistons halfway up their bores. It is unusual, but all marks correspond to this position.
Hi Geoff, well done !
Thank you Cliff, much appreciated!
How do you set the timing if the belt is broken? How do you align camshaft marks
In that case, you would want to get piston n°1 half way up a stroke, that way you can safely rotate the camshafts without having pistons and valves come into contact with one another. Then rotate the camshaft pulleys with a spanner until you manage to align the marks, lock them in place, bring your n°1 piston up to TDC and lock that in place, then place your belt.
Before starting the engine, it will be worth checking compressions if the belt has snapped. It is highly likely that valves are bent and pistons could be damaged.
Best of luck!
Please tell me which type of sealant was used on the cylinders?
Hello. If you have renewed cylinder liners, you must apply a 2.0mm bead of Hylomar 'Blue' (original part number GGC102), on the shoulder of the liners. Have fun with your rebuild!
@@gmcevoy Tell me VICTOR REINZ 702457120 will fit?
@@рамидкаипов Yes, it is the equivalent of Hylomar blue.
@@gmcevoy OK, thanks.
Здравствуйте
Скажите какой должен быть выступ цилиндров с плоскости блока ?
Ровер 214 си, 16 в, 1400 мотор
Здравствуйте
Для двигателя серии K Выступ должен составлять от 0,05 мм до 0,10 мм.
@@gmcevoy Спасибо
What is the timing belt number
Hi. It depends if you have manual or automatic tensioner, and if you have VVC or not. This is the non VVC, automatic tensioner, and the kit is referenced RP1078.
There is a Rover 200 that I want to ride with a timing belt. What belt should I install?
Quite hard to tell, from a distance. What engine is fitted to it?
Do belt 305 143 x 23
I am really not sure... Follow this link, it should greatly help. rimmerbros.com/ItemList--Rover-400-45-Engine-Mountings--m-2006
Hlp installed my mg6 2011 cam camshaft
Is this a question? I am not sure.
@@gmcevoy yes
@@arnoldtaker3290 OK. Pardon me, but could you please be a little more specific?
il est possible de caler la couronne du vilebrequin de l'autre coté du démarreur sans avoir a démonter celui ci ..
Intéressant! N'hésitez pas à développer votre tecnique, les internautes apprécieront certainement. Déposer ce démarreur n'est certainement pas le plus chouette moment de la journée. 🙂
derer le démarreur coté couronne il y a une petite plaque à enlever on y aperçois la dite couronne il suffit d'y mettre une cale !
pain in the back side!
For real... What a struggle that was. :)
Hey @@gmcevoy, I kind of know what you mean, happy to also play with the car a bit. Sweet tiny beast 😉
All in all great tutorial, thanks for help
@@matejhrapko9871 It is indeed a fun little car. I am truly happy that you appreciate the videos, and that they have helped you! Enjoy your MG! :-)