Your wiring job is beautiful! I noticed the two batteries that you wired up in parallel are labeled CRANKING and ELECTRONICS. What I did not see was a battery isolation device that would enable the dedicated use that you described. I could be wrong, but I believe the two fuse boxes are essentially connected to the same battery because they are connected in parallel.
Awesome Video, Patrick. I am glad you showed me what size wire to run from my battery to the block because I was running that wire way too small. Thanks 😊
what size fuse did you run to your graphs, everyone that i talk to said 40, also should i run the wires coming from fuse block that is the factory one at the console, i am assuming that the livewell, accessory switch and nav lights are ran threw that block, should i fuse those again at the back
Looks great. I Never saw a blue sea fuse block that had LEDs. I’ve looked for a while. Definitely haven’t seen a 12 terminal blue sea block with negative, that has screws that size. Those lugs don’t look like #8 (M4) that come on the blue sea. I wish they used bigger screws or at least wider slots because it’s not always easy to find rings that tiny, that come on the actual blue sea ones. I just wish I knew what brand block that was, because I’ve been looking for one that has the LEDs that is decent quality and can fit at least #10 rings.
Would like to see how you run the positive wires (for your lights, etc.) from the fuse block to the switch panel. I’m having trouble figuring out how to run an accessory to the switch panel and then to fuse block. Thanks!
Great video! Could you tell me the purpose of the breaker on/off switch between the battery and your electronics fuse block? I know you need a perko style on/off to cut power but because each accessory is already fused what is the purpose of the breaker? If a breaker is necessary how do you determine the amp size. I’m running 3hds live 12’s and active target which is about a 10a draw. Any idea what size breaker I’d need? Thanks
I know I’ve commented already but I mounted my fuse block in the rear compartment on my Ranger where my battery switch is and all I’m powering off my block are my Live 9 in the bow and my Live 12 at the console both with dedicated 10 gauge wire. When I mount my single Talon I’ll run that to the block also that’s all I’ll have on there are those 3 things. I was thinking of using 10 gauge to power the fuse block also since I have that wire already. I went with 10 gauge since I’m only running the 2 graphs. Do you think I’ll be ok powering that block with 10 gauge ?
You sir, have created a MASTERPIECE! You should open your back hatches every time you walk into the garage and beam with pride! It starts with the wiring in the back of the boat and obviously runs to the bow - in fact, every inch if your boat is the ultimate masterpiece! PROUD, PROUD, PROUD is the owner of this boat - even more so when you're the one who did it! It's easy to tell you, sir, are a perfectionist! And your boat is PERFECT from bow to stern! I have a couple of questions if you don't mind? 1) Are the positive and negative posts on the fuse block size 3/8? (I can't find ring terminals which are for size 4, 6 or 8 cable and have a smaller ring size - I think the posts on the fuse blocks are smaller than the 3/8 on the Ionics?) 2) What did you use to cover the ring terminal and part of the cable where it attaches to the fuse block? Is that just red and black heat shrink tubing? It makes your connections look PERFECT. 3) Where are your trolling motor batteries located? Are they Ionics too? Do you have pictures? Thank you!
Thanks Steve, I really appreciate that!!…let me see if I can help ya 1) the ring size for the positive/ground posts on the block are a #10 ring terminal, they fit perfectly 2)Yepper, it’s just heat shrink tubing…makes it look nice and neat! Hope that helps, let me know if ya need anything else!
Sorry, forgot #3…lol Yepper, I run 3 of the 50ah Ionics for my Ghost, they’re located in the back corner of the port side of boat battery compartment…I have a video here showing the setup if it’ll help ya!…thanks again for the kind words!
Great stuff........Question though. You have your two 12v batteries in parallel giving you a total of 250amp hours. But if I followed you correctly you are using each battery separately to power different things (one battery for your motor, lights. pumps and the other battery for you electronics?) Also, is running them parallel allowing you to use the power pole charge because you can really only use a power pole charge with two batteries?
Great job ! Very clean ! I’m upgrading my electronics to Live units and Active Target but I’m only running a 9 up front and a 12 on the console so I think I’ll use the 6 bank block those things look sweet for cleaning things up ! Thanks for doing this video. And great idea on the cutting board 👍
Hey Casey!…that other positive goes to my remote oil fill, it was rigged direct to my battery from the factory so I just hooked it to the positive post on fuse panel…hope that helps!
What size wire did you use from block to livescope? I've got about a 5 foot run to my electronics block. Ive ran 8 gauge to my block. Ive ran 10 to my graphs from that block. I am trying to figure out what wire to run from block to mega 360 and mega live. What do you suggest?
Howdy You have 4 gauge from batteries to the block and perhaps 8 or 10 gauge from the block to your electronics. Does the block cause a power bottle neck? I hope that makes sense - I guess what I want to know is if you ran 8 gauge directly to the battery, you get 8 gauge power. But can the block cause you to have 10 gauge power even though you used 8 gauge wire? Thanks for your help! Mark
I never made a video of the actual graph wiring install, but I use 10 gauge marine grade for all my graphs running from fuse block to unit….I’ll put a link down below for the wiring I used, highly recommend it! amzn.to/3CwiW0W
Hey Jeff!…you can do a couple different things…if the accessory didn’t come with a fuse, first I would check the user manual…it should state somewhere in there what size fuse is required…if not you can check to see how many amps it draws off battery and match it with appropriate fuse…if all else fails and you’re still unsure, Google is your friend!…lol…or you can even ask me on here and I’ll do whatever I can to help ya out!
Thank you!…those 50 amp fuses also act as main switches if I want to kill the power to the blocks…there’s a red button on the top of the fuses that you can see in the video, if you press that it shuts all power off to the blocks, so it acts as a switch and a fuse all in one…makes it super easy if I ever need to kill the power to the blocks, hope that helps!…let me know if ya have any other questions!
All depends on how many amps they pull, they should say in the instruction manual for the units what fuse you should use for them...unfortunately I'm not too familiar with Garmin so I don't want to give ya any wrong info...but let me know if ya can't find it in manual, I'll see if I can dig up the correct amp for ya!
That is great but that doesn't allow you to power those accessories on and off. How do you wire in the switch panel so the accessories are both fuze protected and on an on/off switch?
Maybe I'm missing something here but, what is the purpose of running these batteries in Parrell? The way you're running wires from the individual batteries to individual Fuse Blocks only allows for the individual amps of one battery (or the other) to be utilized. Also, you mention one of the batteries being the Starting (or Crank) Battery. Using a Deep Cycle Battery for this purpose is not ideal, if said battery(s) are being charged from the Engine Alternator.
just had to add this, watching another one of your video and saw you are from Pa. I am located near Pittsburgh. Just came from maine fishing, and was at lake efuala in Ga.. Try to go 2 places each year. Maybe we can exchange email address and hook up some time to fish. Also I have a question about the ionic battery's. Do you need to change the charging system or will the one I have for my stock lead 4 bank pro charging system work with them. Thanks
Yea absolutely!…I travel to NY a few times a year to fish, we could definitely meet up on the water!… as for the charger, it depends on the one that you have… Some older chargers are compatible with lithium’s, what exact charger do you have?
I just binged your videos. Since I have Lowrance products on my 2019 Triton patriot 19'. Unfortunate I had to get the Ultrex with I pilot, it works great the few times I have used it and pulls the boat around fantastic, but will not link up with the lowrance items. Been debating on finding a place for trade in or trying to sell, but taking a big lost on a new tm is hard to swallow, just to have a few extra's the ghost will provide, any thought on idea if you ran the ultrex. Seems like there is a lot of glitches in the ghost Tm and advertised options not working yet. That active view looks great add on also. Any new comments on Tm and active since you have had them now for a awhile. Also is there a way to go from down to front view on the active without having to pull the tm out of the water and adjust the transducer, seems like a pain to do every time you want to change view. Where did you get the straps for the sun covers on you fish finders, I have a problem of my falling off when travailing boat with cover on and off.
Hey Bob!… i’m sorry, I don’t know how I missed your comment… The Ultrex is definitely a good motor in itself, but the ghost is the best trolling motor I’ve ever been on a boat with hands down… I would definitely consider making the switch, especially if you use Lowrance units on the boat… i’ve had no issues with my ghost at all, and I’ve heard countless people who made the switch from the Ultrex say that they have no regrets whatsoever and that the ghost is just an all around better motor…unfortunately as of right now there is no way to switch from down to front view without lifting the trolling motor out of the water… And the straps that I have on my fishfinder’s are from Boat EFX, they work perfectly!…here’s the link if it would help! boatefx.com/products/boatefx-electronic-graph-cover-trap
Great video but I have a question about the fuse blocks. I have power poles anda panoptix black box and they both have 40 amp in-line fuses in the power wires. I want to connect them to the clear blue fuse block I bought but I read that each circuit is only rated for 30 amps. The way I understand that to mean is that you can connect anything to any one fuse block that's over 30 amps, is that correct? What are my options? I've tried researching 40 amp or higher circuit fuse blocks but can't find any. I have a 2018 Nitro Z19.
Hey Jim!…that’s correct, as far as I know each circuit is only rated for up to 30 amps each (but total of each circuit shouldn’t exceed what’s listed for the block)… I’m honestly not sure if I’ve ever seen a block like that, they may exist but I’ve never needed one that large… If I come across anything that might be helpful for you I will definitely pass it along!
If it's protected by a 40 Amp fuse in-line then it shouldn't matter right ? It's like double protected ? If he hooks to the fuse block that's got a 30 Amp fuse.
Pat What a great job and looks pretty. OCD is good!!! I did the same set up minus some of the stuff you have Lights, radio, poles. I am surprised by the room you have in that Nitro. You should try to do that in a Ranger a lot less room to work. I like the idea of a second batt. But I don't know how Id fit it. Will an Ionic charger recharge both ???? I put a switch also to turn off the electronics.
Thanks Chris!!…yea having that 2nd “house” battery is awesome, I never have to worry about running outta juice, it’s crazy the amount of time I get outta this setup!…yepper, the Ionic charger will recharge both, it would just take longer to reach full charge, but would absolutely work…and having a switch to turn off all power is nice, that’s what I like about those 50 amp fuses I have coming off both batteries…they have a switch built into them where I can cut all power to the each individual fuse block, thus cutting power to anything hooked to that block…it’s a win/win…thanks for watching!
@@NitroZ18Fishing Thanks Patrick. sounds like the way I need to go. With the 2 12 and the 16 on plus AT running the wells going all day in a tournament I have drawn down the 125 Ionic down to 48%. the big motor still cranks up but just a little concerned. Looks like a winter projects in the making. Thanks keep up the vids Chris
@@NitroZ18Fishing Thanks so much another question when you buy connectors for the 8 gauge when hooking to the Lowrance power cord doesn’t it have a lot smaller wire ? Any problems with a connector that fits that bigger 8 gauge ? Thanks for the help !!
No prob!!…yea what I’ll do sometimes in cases like this is buy “step down” butt connectors, and I’ll take the smaller wire from Lowrance, strip a bunch off, and triple the wire over itself to bulk it up before putting it in connector…if that makes sense…haha…here’s a link to the step downs I’m referring to, hope that helps! amzn.to/3eEC8C5
Was literally thinking about doing the same thing today to clean up, great video. Totally unrelated to video, have you had any trouble with you livewell overflow pipe cracking you thru hull connector?
Thanks Dave!…I wish I did this a lot sooner, I highly recommend doing it…takes a little patience especially if you’re OCD like me, but so worth it when it’s done…and no issues with that pipe on my end, thankfully…hahaha…thanks for watching!
That varies depending on your devices, you have to coordinate the proper size fuse for each connection at fuse block...for example, my graphs call for a 5 amp fuse, so the spots that the graph wire is ran to, I have a 5 in that spot...hope that helps!
Excellent video bro!! Those batteries are just for your accessories 😳 Hey show us dummies how you did the other stuff too? My battery compartment looks a bit different 😉
Nice and clean, good try! Maybe explain why bigger is better, as you say, on the wire size. Most people don't understand ohms or resistance, and don't know about voltage drop, especially in low voltage wiring systems. Also circuit breakers are not fuses. Just saying.
How much interference are you getting on your electronics running the power wires with the other wiring? Marine wiring is not needed if your connections are done right in freshwater. Marine wiring is needed in saltwater though.
Minimal interference, if any at all…only interference I get is on my Active Target from the other Sonar running along side the ducer, but that’s basically unavoidable…if I pause the other sonar my AT clears right up…thanks for watching!
OCD is a terrible thing. Such a devastating medical condition. I can only imagine how difficult your world must have been and still is to this day. I’m sad for the social situations, the friendships, the relationships that must have been affected. Did you find any relief from any of the side-effect riddled medications that help people with OCD attempt to have some normality to their day. One thing that I really hate, is when people think they can pretend to have OCD when they are talking about minor things….like a messy room or untidy desk. Kind of like people who swear and then pretend to have Tourette’s. Those are the people who, with a simple statement like ‘my OCD kicked in’ don’t realize that they may have just ruined an individuals week. Like coughing a few times and saying ‘my lung cancer just kicked in’ while in the palliative care area. Anyways, I’m glad to see you creating content and being open about OCD. It is good when you are able to talk about it. Now young people with OCD, with all the struggles, will see that you are able to function and create content. You are an inspiration.
YES You DO need that battery breaker! SOLAR and ABYC standards want it within 7 inches of the battery POS post. Cover all the POS connections, HEY Shit happens!
Finally, I’ve met someone who does the job correctly!
Outstanding, I think the same was as you when fabrication/installation practices are needed 👊🏻
Thank you sir, much appreciated!!…I should have done this a looong time ago…hahaha…well worth the little time and effort for sure!
Your wiring job is beautiful! I noticed the two batteries that you wired up in parallel are labeled CRANKING and ELECTRONICS. What I did not see was a battery isolation device that would enable the dedicated use that you described. I could be wrong, but I believe the two fuse boxes are essentially connected to the same battery because they are connected in parallel.
Great work 👍 I'm rewiring an old motorbike and you have helped me along with the understanding of electrics and using these fuse blocks
Awesome Video, Patrick. I am glad you showed me what size wire to run from my battery to the block because I was running that wire way too small. Thanks 😊
Thanks Darnell!…yea that’ll make a difference for sure, let me know how ya make out!
what size fuse did you run to your graphs, everyone that i talk to said 40, also should i run the wires coming from fuse block that is the factory one at the console, i am assuming that the livewell, accessory switch and nav lights are ran threw that block, should i fuse those again at the back
Very, very good run down of boat wiring mechanism!
Thanks Ted, I appreciate it!!
Looks great. I Never saw a blue sea fuse block that had LEDs. I’ve looked for a while. Definitely haven’t seen a 12 terminal blue sea block with negative, that has screws that size. Those lugs don’t look like #8 (M4) that come on the blue sea. I wish they used bigger screws or at least wider slots because it’s not always easy to find rings that tiny, that come on the actual blue sea ones. I just wish I knew what brand block that was, because I’ve been looking for one that has the LEDs that is decent quality and can fit at least #10 rings.
Would like to see how you run the positive wires (for your lights, etc.) from the fuse block to the switch panel. I’m having trouble figuring out how to run an accessory to the switch panel and then to fuse block. Thanks!
Do you use terminal blocks when connecting multiple lights to one switch? Seems to be the most logical way to get say 4 wires into 1
Great video! Could you tell me the purpose of the breaker on/off switch between the battery and your electronics fuse block? I know you need a perko style on/off to cut power but because each accessory is already fused what is the purpose of the breaker? If a breaker is necessary how do you determine the amp size. I’m running 3hds live 12’s and active target which is about a 10a draw. Any idea what size breaker I’d need? Thanks
I know I’ve commented already but I mounted my fuse block in the rear compartment on my Ranger where my battery switch is and all I’m powering off my block are my Live 9 in the bow and my Live 12 at the console both with dedicated 10 gauge wire. When I mount my single Talon I’ll run that to the block also that’s all I’ll have on there are those 3 things. I was thinking of using 10 gauge to power the fuse block also since I have that wire already. I went with 10 gauge since I’m only running the 2 graphs. Do you think I’ll be ok powering that block with 10 gauge ?
Where did you get the bus bars from ? 9:21 I saw another comment with the answer. Ty great video.
Got those off Amazon, here's the direct link if it'll help!
amzn.to/42wAN4H
You sir, have created a MASTERPIECE! You should open your back hatches every time you walk into the garage and beam with pride! It starts with the wiring in the back of the boat and obviously runs to the bow - in fact, every inch if your boat is the ultimate masterpiece! PROUD, PROUD, PROUD is the owner of this boat - even more so when you're the one who did it! It's easy to tell you, sir, are a perfectionist! And your boat is PERFECT from bow to stern!
I have a couple of questions if you don't mind?
1) Are the positive and negative posts on the fuse block size 3/8? (I can't find ring terminals which are for size 4, 6 or 8 cable and have a smaller ring size - I think the posts on the fuse blocks are smaller than the 3/8 on the Ionics?)
2) What did you use to cover the ring terminal and part of the cable where it attaches to the fuse block? Is that just red and black heat shrink tubing? It makes your connections look PERFECT.
3) Where are your trolling motor batteries located? Are they Ionics too? Do you have pictures?
Thank you!
Thanks Steve, I really appreciate that!!…let me see if I can help ya
1) the ring size for the positive/ground posts on the block are a #10 ring terminal, they fit perfectly
2)Yepper, it’s just heat shrink tubing…makes it look nice and neat!
Hope that helps, let me know if ya need anything else!
Sorry, forgot #3…lol
Yepper, I run 3 of the 50ah Ionics for my Ghost, they’re located in the back corner of the port side of boat battery compartment…I have a video here showing the setup if it’ll help ya!…thanks again for the kind words!
What was that second positive wire going to a breaker stacked on the first fuse block for?
Where did you get the multi-post terminal bar?
Great stuff........Question though. You have your two 12v batteries in parallel giving you a total of 250amp hours. But if I followed you correctly you are using each battery separately to power different things (one battery for your motor, lights. pumps and the other battery for you electronics?) Also, is running them parallel allowing you to use the power pole charge because you can really only use a power pole charge with two batteries?
What size wire did you use from the fuse box to your electronics? Fixing to do this to my my nitro z21
I have 10 gauge ran to all 4 graphs, plenty of juice!
Great job ! Very clean ! I’m upgrading my electronics to Live units and Active Target but I’m only running a 9 up front and a 12 on the console so I think I’ll use the 6 bank block those things look sweet for cleaning things up ! Thanks for doing this video. And great idea on the cutting board 👍
Thanks Glenn, I appreciate it!!…you’ll love that setup, and if ya need anything with install let me know…thanks for watching!
NitroZ18, where did you get those battery terminal distribution bars at?
what does the second positive go to from your accessory fuse panel? thanks
Hey Casey!…that other positive goes to my remote oil fill, it was rigged direct to my battery from the factory so I just hooked it to the positive post on fuse panel…hope that helps!
Where did you get those bus bars that are on the battery? There is no link in your list for those. Also, the motor is directly wired to the battery?
Got them from Lithium hub, here’s the direct link!…and yes sir, big motor is still direct to cranking battery
lithiumhub.com/product/terminal-adapter/
What size wire did you use from block to livescope? I've got about a 5 foot run to my electronics block. Ive ran 8 gauge to my block. Ive ran 10 to my graphs from that block. I am trying to figure out what wire to run from block to mega 360 and mega live. What do you suggest?
Howdy
You have 4 gauge from batteries to the block and perhaps 8 or 10 gauge from the block to your electronics. Does the block cause a power bottle neck? I hope that makes sense - I guess what I want to know is if you ran 8 gauge directly to the battery, you get 8 gauge power. But can the block cause you to have 10 gauge power even though you used 8 gauge wire?
Thanks for your help!
Mark
what charger are you using to charge the dual 125AH batteries . i just purchased 2 of them to do the same thing
I have them hooked up in parallel and hooked up to the Power Pole Charge….the performance is unreal, they last forever!
Do u have a video when u ran the wire to the graphs? What size wire & where did u get the wire running to the graphs?
I never made a video of the actual graph wiring install, but I use 10 gauge marine grade for all my graphs running from fuse block to unit….I’ll put a link down below for the wiring I used, highly recommend it!
amzn.to/3CwiW0W
Are you also running the inline fuses that came on your graphs and active target in addition to the fuse block?
Nah, those aren't needed when running to the block....the spots on fused block act as the fuse for each item
What’s the best way to determine what fuse size you need for each accessory?
Hey Jeff!…you can do a couple different things…if the accessory didn’t come with a fuse, first I would check the user manual…it should state somewhere in there what size fuse is required…if not you can check to see how many amps it draws off battery and match it with appropriate fuse…if all else fails and you’re still unsure, Google is your friend!…lol…or you can even ask me on here and I’ll do whatever I can to help ya out!
Still learning here. Good video. Wish you would have also explain/show the main switches if any......
Thank you!…those 50 amp fuses also act as main switches if I want to kill the power to the blocks…there’s a red button on the top of the fuses that you can see in the video, if you press that it shuts all power off to the blocks, so it acts as a switch and a fuse all in one…makes it super easy if I ever need to kill the power to the blocks, hope that helps!…let me know if ya have any other questions!
How do you determine what size fuse goes on the block? I'm thinking about adding one for my 2, 9 inch garmins and the black box.
All depends on how many amps they pull, they should say in the instruction manual for the units what fuse you should use for them...unfortunately I'm not too familiar with Garmin so I don't want to give ya any wrong info...but let me know if ya can't find it in manual, I'll see if I can dig up the correct amp for ya!
That is great but that doesn't allow you to power those accessories on and off. How do you wire in the switch panel so the accessories are both fuze protected and on an on/off switch?
I can cut the power to both fuse blocks (individually) using the switch style fuses I show in the video…it’s definitely a nice option to include!
Maybe I'm missing something here but, what is the purpose of running these batteries in Parrell? The way you're running wires from the individual batteries to individual Fuse Blocks only allows for the individual amps of one battery (or the other) to be utilized. Also, you mention one of the batteries being the Starting (or Crank) Battery. Using a Deep Cycle Battery for this purpose is not ideal, if said battery(s) are being charged from the Engine Alternator.
just had to add this, watching another one of your video and saw you are from Pa. I am located near Pittsburgh. Just came from maine fishing, and was at lake efuala in Ga.. Try to go 2 places each year. Maybe we can exchange email address and hook up some time to fish. Also I have a question about the ionic battery's. Do you need to change the charging system or will the one I have for my stock lead 4 bank pro charging system work with them. Thanks
Yea absolutely!…I travel to NY a few times a year to fish, we could definitely meet up on the water!… as for the charger, it depends on the one that you have… Some older chargers are compatible with lithium’s, what exact charger do you have?
Z18 where did you get your lowrance cover straps
They’re from Boat EFX, thanks for watching Mike!
I just binged your videos. Since I have Lowrance products on my 2019 Triton patriot 19'. Unfortunate I had to get the Ultrex with I pilot, it works great the few times I have used it and pulls the boat around fantastic, but will not link up with the lowrance items. Been debating on finding a place for trade in or trying to sell, but taking a big lost on a new tm is hard to swallow, just to have a few extra's the ghost will provide, any thought on idea if you ran the ultrex. Seems like there is a lot of glitches in the ghost Tm and advertised options not working yet. That active view looks great add on also. Any new comments on Tm and active since you have had them now for a awhile. Also is there a way to go from down to front view on the active without having to pull the tm out of the water and adjust the transducer, seems like a pain to do every time you want to change view. Where did you get the straps for the sun covers on you fish finders, I have a problem of my falling off when travailing boat with cover on and off.
Hey Bob!… i’m sorry, I don’t know how I missed your comment… The Ultrex is definitely a good motor in itself, but the ghost is the best trolling motor I’ve ever been on a boat with hands down… I would definitely consider making the switch, especially if you use Lowrance units on the boat… i’ve had no issues with my ghost at all, and I’ve heard countless people who made the switch from the Ultrex say that they have no regrets whatsoever and that the ghost is just an all around better motor…unfortunately as of right now there is no way to switch from down to front view without lifting the trolling motor out of the water… And the straps that I have on my fishfinder’s are from Boat EFX, they work perfectly!…here’s the link if it would help! boatefx.com/products/boatefx-electronic-graph-cover-trap
Great video but I have a question about the fuse blocks. I have power poles anda panoptix black box and they both have 40 amp in-line fuses in the power wires. I want to connect them to the clear blue fuse block I bought but I read that each circuit is only rated for 30 amps. The way I understand that to mean is that you can connect anything to any one fuse block that's over 30 amps, is that correct? What are my options? I've tried researching 40 amp or higher circuit fuse blocks but can't find any. I have a 2018 Nitro Z19.
Hey Jim!…that’s correct, as far as I know each circuit is only rated for up to 30 amps each (but total of each circuit shouldn’t exceed what’s listed for the block)… I’m honestly not sure if I’ve ever seen a block like that, they may exist but I’ve never needed one that large… If I come across anything that might be helpful for you I will definitely pass it along!
If it's protected by a 40 Amp fuse in-line then it shouldn't matter right ? It's like double protected ? If he hooks to the fuse block that's got a 30 Amp fuse.
Pat What a great job and looks pretty. OCD is good!!! I did the same set up minus some of the stuff you have Lights, radio, poles. I am surprised by the room you have in that Nitro. You should try to do that in a Ranger a lot less room to work. I like the idea of a second batt. But I don't know how Id fit it. Will an Ionic charger recharge both ???? I put a switch also to turn off the electronics.
Thanks Chris!!…yea having that 2nd “house” battery is awesome, I never have to worry about running outta juice, it’s crazy the amount of time I get outta this setup!…yepper, the Ionic charger will recharge both, it would just take longer to reach full charge, but would absolutely work…and having a switch to turn off all power is nice, that’s what I like about those 50 amp fuses I have coming off both batteries…they have a switch built into them where I can cut all power to the each individual fuse block, thus cutting power to anything hooked to that block…it’s a win/win…thanks for watching!
@@NitroZ18Fishing Thanks Patrick. sounds like the way I need to go. With the 2 12 and the 16 on plus AT running the wells going all day in a tournament I have drawn down the 125 Ionic down to 48%. the big motor still cranks up but just a little concerned. Looks like a winter projects in the making. Thanks keep up the vids Chris
Yea no prob!…let me know how ya make out!
What size wire did you run to each graph ? I looked up 8 gauge and looks as though they only come red and yellow wire.
Hey Glenn!…here’s the direct link to Ancor Marine grade with black/red options in 8 gauge…let me know if ya need anything else!
amzn.to/3BaTZbz
@@NitroZ18Fishing Thanks so much another question when you buy connectors for the 8 gauge when hooking to the Lowrance power cord doesn’t it have a lot smaller wire ? Any problems with a connector that fits that bigger 8 gauge ? Thanks for the help !!
No prob!!…yea what I’ll do sometimes in cases like this is buy “step down” butt connectors, and I’ll take the smaller wire from Lowrance, strip a bunch off, and triple the wire over itself to bulk it up before putting it in connector…if that makes sense…haha…here’s a link to the step downs I’m referring to, hope that helps!
amzn.to/3eEC8C5
what size cables from battery to battery?
If I remember correctly I went with 4 gauge…hope that helps!
what epoxy did you use for the cutting board ? Some times not any epoxy will work. thanks love your shows. I just got my new Z21 XL in last week.
If I remember correctly it was a marine grade JB Weld mix… It’s been holding perfectly so far, hope that helps!
Congrats on the new rig, those Z21 XL‘s look legit!
Was literally thinking about doing the same thing today to clean up, great video. Totally unrelated to video, have you had any trouble with you livewell overflow pipe cracking you thru hull connector?
Thanks Dave!…I wish I did this a lot sooner, I highly recommend doing it…takes a little patience especially if you’re OCD like me, but so worth it when it’s done…and no issues with that pipe on my end, thankfully…hahaha…thanks for watching!
How have I ran it?
What size fuses do you use in the fuse block?
That varies depending on your devices, you have to coordinate the proper size fuse for each connection at fuse block...for example, my graphs call for a 5 amp fuse, so the spots that the graph wire is ran to, I have a 5 in that spot...hope that helps!
@@NitroZ18Fishing thank you. I wound up finding what my problem was.
No prob, let me know if I can help with anything else!...sorry it took me so long to respond to the original comment, don't know how I missed it!
@@NitroZ18Fishing no problem.
Excellent video bro!! Those batteries are just for your accessories 😳 Hey show us dummies how you did the other stuff too? My battery compartment looks a bit different 😉
Thanks buddy, I appreciate it!!…anything in particular you’re looking for help with?…I’ll help however I can!
Good video
Thanks man, I appreciate it!
Nice and clean, good try! Maybe explain why bigger is better, as you say, on the wire size. Most people don't understand ohms or resistance, and don't know about voltage drop, especially in low voltage wiring systems. Also circuit breakers are not fuses. Just saying.
you dont say the size of thewire you used in youe electronices block
How much interference are you getting on your electronics running the power wires with the other wiring? Marine wiring is not needed if your connections are done right in freshwater. Marine wiring is needed in saltwater though.
Minimal interference, if any at all…only interference I get is on my Active Target from the other Sonar running along side the ducer, but that’s basically unavoidable…if I pause the other sonar my AT clears right up…thanks for watching!
OCD is a terrible thing. Such a devastating medical condition. I can only imagine how difficult your world must have been and still is to this day. I’m sad for the social situations, the friendships, the relationships that must have been affected. Did you find any relief from any of the side-effect riddled medications that help people with OCD attempt to have some normality to their day. One thing that I really hate, is when people think they can pretend to have OCD when they are talking about minor things….like a messy room or untidy desk. Kind of like people who swear and then pretend to have Tourette’s. Those are the people who, with a simple statement like ‘my OCD kicked in’ don’t realize that they may have just ruined an individuals week. Like coughing a few times and saying ‘my lung cancer just kicked in’ while in the palliative care area. Anyways, I’m glad to see you creating content and being open about OCD. It is good when you are able to talk about it. Now young people with OCD, with all the struggles, will see that you are able to function and create content. You are an inspiration.
Wah wah wah we get it, you're a miserable loser. Try keeping that negativity to yourself you obnoxious child.
YES You DO need that battery breaker! SOLAR and ABYC standards want it within 7 inches of the battery POS post. Cover all the POS connections, HEY Shit happens!