@@violinshop. Hello Victor, that was really informative. I didn’t quite understand. The thin piece of spruce which you pre compressed, did that fit into the small gap between the top plate and the neck, which would occur when you elevate the finger board. This would stop the finger board returning to its original (lower) position. Also , due to string tension over time, does this lowering of the finger board occur by deformation (not a lot is needed) of structure under stress ? Thank you. ( I love putting tops to the knife and seeing what the inside is like, what the base bar is like, but retouching the varnishing is my Achilles heal )
I have 4 or 5 instruments this problem happened to. I moved from a dry climate, to a. tropical one. I'm a trained Luther, but didn't know how to correct it, until now. Still, until I can do it, it's just wishful thinking. I'll be surprised if the neck can be bent like that, but I'll give it a try. Thanks
Good luck with your repairs. Just to be clear, the method shown in this video is for correcting the elevation/angle. If the neck and/or fingerboard is actually "bent" out of shape then it would be an entirely different topic to cover.
I am trying this titebond hide glue and I’m afraid that my violin would be easily opened. I live in Vietnam and it has wet climate. Should I keep using hideglue or replace it by wood white glue
If the connecting surfaces are smooth it is generally safe to use titebond hide glue. Personally I once encountered an opening with deformed and curved top and that one time I had to use heated hide glue granules to achieve that strong bond.
Just curious why the first measurement you took was with the steel rule OVER the nut, but second time claiming the 37mm, you had the rule flat touching the top of the fingerboard, therefore to me the shim was not thick enough?, but thanks for the tips anyway!
Would not measuring the height of the end of the fingerboard to the top plate of 21mm first be a better indication, and then do the bridge height after?
If the instrument's neck height at the shoulder is known to be correct, then indeed a height within 20.5 to 21 mm at the end of the fingerboard would be acceptable!
I just reglued entire violin and it's pretty stiff with initial gap measured at fingure board as 21 mm. This is stardious model and it's rim are fixed in nech and don't have nech block like clasical guitar. Now it's shows low projection as 18 mm , when we tighten the strings and nech joint with body is pretty stiff and strong. Pl suggest, what to do? Thanks in advance.
A height of 21mm at fingerboard end is a bit high but might be manageable, but a violin without an upper block raises all the red flags. There is an immense force from the tension of the strings and without an upper block the violin would be deformed over time for sure.
Traditionally the violin's top and back have different types of wood and the grains are also oriented differently. The back tends to expand while the top is usually stable. Nearly every instruments suffer from projection change due to this. And yes, its severity does depend on the quality of the wood and the weather.
I call this Edge Projection, how you call this restoration?
It's a bodge job. He's just made the neck joint weaker. Bad workmanship.
Wanna see that new HIGH BRIDGE on there! And a close-up look at the repair-mod 👀
I am going to look at a violin to purchase this measurement was valuable to me.Thank you
You're very welcome!
@@violinshop. Hello Victor, that was really informative. I didn’t quite understand. The thin piece of spruce which you pre compressed, did that fit into the small gap between the top plate and the neck, which would occur when you elevate the finger board. This would stop the finger board returning to its original (lower) position.
Also , due to string tension over time, does this lowering of the finger board occur by deformation (not a lot is needed) of structure under stress ? Thank you.
( I love putting tops to the knife and seeing what the inside is like, what the base bar is like, but retouching the varnishing is my Achilles heal )
is that then a baroque violin?
I have 4 or 5 instruments this problem happened to. I moved from a dry climate, to a. tropical one. I'm a trained Luther, but didn't know how to correct it, until now. Still, until I can do it, it's just wishful thinking. I'll be surprised if the neck can be bent like that, but I'll give it a try. Thanks
Good luck with your repairs. Just to be clear, the method shown in this video is for correcting the elevation/angle. If the neck and/or fingerboard is actually "bent" out of shape then it would be an entirely different topic to cover.
I am trying this titebond hide glue and I’m afraid that my violin would be easily opened. I live in Vietnam and it has wet climate. Should I keep using hideglue or replace it by wood white glue
If the connecting surfaces are smooth it is generally safe to use titebond hide glue. Personally I once encountered an opening with deformed and curved top and that one time I had to use heated hide glue granules to achieve that strong bond.
Just curious why the first measurement you took was with the steel rule OVER the nut, but second time claiming the 37mm, you had the rule flat touching the top of the fingerboard, therefore to me the shim was not thick enough?, but thanks for the tips anyway!
Thank you for video! But the neck also should be glued, another way the nut will be brocken. Or my unser standing wrong?
Would not measuring the height of the end of the fingerboard to the top plate of 21mm first be a better indication, and then do the bridge height after?
If the instrument's neck height at the shoulder is known to be correct, then indeed a height within 20.5 to 21 mm at the end of the fingerboard would be acceptable!
I just reglued entire violin and it's pretty stiff with initial gap measured at fingure board as 21 mm.
This is stardious model and it's rim are fixed in nech and don't have nech block like clasical guitar.
Now it's shows low projection as 18 mm , when we tighten the strings and nech joint with body is pretty stiff and strong.
Pl suggest, what to do? Thanks in advance.
A height of 21mm at fingerboard end is a bit high but might be manageable, but a violin without an upper block raises all the red flags. There is an immense force from the tension of the strings and without an upper block the violin would be deformed over time for sure.
Why does this happen? is it something with the wood?, failures in the construction process? the weather?
Traditionally the violin's top and back have different types of wood and the grains are also oriented differently. The back tends to expand while the top is usually stable. Nearly every instruments suffer from projection change due to this. And yes, its severity does depend on the quality of the wood and the weather.
why not using bone glue?
Violins are climate sensitive and traditionally hide glue has been used for its flexibility. Hope it answers your question!
Is it possible to open this part, that was glued with this hide glue, again?