@@johnbat6743 When you heat the hide glue it softens, as you did. If you remove the nut then insert your seam separating knife at the nut end and just rock it until it 'cracks' off. If not heated, the glue is brittle and breaks like a crystal glass. Most violins are separated 'cold'. I understand that your violin is precious to you and therefore, you probably took the best approach. I have a 'Richard Peat' violin, cc 1890, which needs the fingerboard scraped and re-set in a better position. To avoid damage, I think I'll do it your way 🙂
I did that with an old German violin I had and the glue was so brittle it came off exactly that way. However most violins I've encountered aren't old enough to have brittle hide glue like that. I've been told it takes about 100 years to go brittle. If you try my way just be sure to cover your violin as the very first one I tried this way (which was a cheap one thank goodness) got heat marks on the top plate because I hadn't protected it enough 🤦♀️
@@johnbat6743 Thanks for your advice, I'll be careful! Hide glue can actually become hard and brittle within a few weeks if Luthiers use 120-200 gram strength. It doesn't have any 'filling' properties. A few skins of thick paint, on the other hand, that haven't dried fully between coats, can be soft for a few years but the animal glues used in Lutherie are so thin that they go off very quickly. I think Violin making borders on a science.
Safer but slower than the standard way of removing a finger board. Well done! regards, Phil
There's a faster way??
@@johnbat6743 When you heat the hide glue it softens, as you did. If you remove the nut then insert your seam separating knife at the nut end and just rock it until it 'cracks' off. If not heated, the glue is brittle and breaks like a crystal glass. Most violins are separated 'cold'. I understand that your violin is precious to you and therefore, you probably took the best approach. I have a 'Richard Peat' violin, cc 1890, which needs the fingerboard scraped and re-set in a better position. To avoid damage, I think I'll do it your way 🙂
I did that with an old German violin I had and the glue was so brittle it came off exactly that way. However most violins I've encountered aren't old enough to have brittle hide glue like that. I've been told it takes about 100 years to go brittle.
If you try my way just be sure to cover your violin as the very first one I tried this way (which was a cheap one thank goodness) got heat marks on the top plate because I hadn't protected it enough 🤦♀️
@@johnbat6743 Thanks for your advice, I'll be careful!
Hide glue can actually become hard and brittle within a few weeks if Luthiers use 120-200 gram strength. It doesn't have any 'filling' properties. A few skins of thick paint, on the other hand, that haven't dried fully between coats, can be soft for a few years but the animal glues used in Lutherie are so thin that they go off very quickly. I think Violin making borders on a science.
Is it just me or is your volume low? Not my first choice but if it works go for it.
I am sorry but videos of amateurs doing an amateur job in a disorganized way should be delelted.
Where's the final product?
ruclips.net/video/kY0wySxB-tc/видео.html