Oh man Acadian driftwood playing in the background! Music of my heart. Just stopped into the store today, was great seeing you after so long. Definitely interested in these electric systems
After having used this unit for a couple of years now, I wanted to add a few other thigs that I have learned. First, I have found using 1/2# of Rice Hulls in every batch (1# if using flaked or huskless grain) really aids in a smooth recirculation. The 2nd Gen. grain tube may make this unnecessary, but I have found it to be very helpful in my gen. 1 grain tube. Second is running the pump slower than I show in the video. It doesn't need to run too fast to efficiently pull that hot wort from the bottom. Many of the issues I have seen people have stem from pumping too fast and running the bottom of the vessel dry. Make sure you can always see wort between the grain tube and the outside wall. Lastly, I have started using 7 gallons of wort for my pre-boil volume every batch. This allows me to run a half gallon or so off into a bucket before moving relatively clean wort to my fermenter. Happy Brewing! ~Cheers!
Really appreciated the video demonstrating how the system works. I have been skeptical of 120V units so I was happy to see your work flow. Looks like a sight gauge would be a worthwhile addition to this system.
Well done ! one of the best straight forward videos I've seen. Thankfully no irritating background music it interfere with the instructions. As a Mash & Boil user myself Jon's procedure is almost the same as mine although mine is a pump less version.
Hi @@ssiem37. Great questions! I use PBW, fill it to the top and soak with the malt pipe inside. I recirc the pump for a little bit, let it sit, then recirc a little more. After draining a soft sponge usually gets rid of anything else. then a good rinse! I'd recommend checking with your local shop for the aerator. If not, they can be found here: www.morebeer.com/products/siphon-spray-wort-aerator.html
I've been using a grain bag in the grain pipe and double milling my grains like with BIAB and I can consistently hit 80+ efficiencies!! I love my M&B although i wish i got one with the integrated pump.I bought mine before they made them with the pump. Oh well, i rigged a cheap pump and sparge arm to recirculate and it works well for me.
Just purchased this system to do my first all grain beer and corn mash. Great video explaining how to use the Brewers Edge as part of the process. Thanks for the video!
Great video! Thank you. I bought my M&B a couple of years ago when we had our second daughter. Too busy to go up to the brew house so I thought I would just use it in the kitchen while watching the kids. Still have not used it but you have made it look so easy. Getting excited once more.
I love that. Thanks for the video. Subbed and waiting for new ones :) AND I think "touching stone" is a "big lie" (not your fault ever brewer says that) because hops have lots of oil than human hand.
a case of Pliny.. you're spoiled lol.. Good Brewday!!! I have a first gen mash and boil (without the pump) and it's a great all in one kit for the price.
I have the same, first gen. I really like it. I bought a small pump to try recirculating but I haven’t used it yet. I get very high efficiency without it. Still, I’ll get around to it! Great brew day. I love hitting my numbers. 🍻
@@hackattack7811 I did get it. I've done 5 or 6 brews on it already, and I love it. It is a little slow to get up to temp, and the boil isn't a rolling boil, but it has simplified my brew day and and reduced it by a couple of hours.
Thanks for your comment Marc! The Oxygen regulator that I use is available in many homebrew shops, so if you have a local store I would try there first (we carry them here in Puyallup WA). If not, it is available through more beer. www.morebeer.com/products/oxygen-regulator.html
Does that grain basket keep all things from getting out or have some particles of grain made it past? I dont want to take a change of scorching something that makes it through.
Hi, thanks for your question. There are usually a small amount of grain particles that get through the holes in the grain basket, but never enough that it has caused a problem for me. With the recirculating pump these particles are moved back to the top of the grain bed pretty easily. There are definitely people who share your concern and use a straining bag inside the grain tube. My preference is to not use a bag because it would hinder the recirculation. And, it makes great beer just the way it is! With the level my grain is crushed the tiny bit of grain that gets through is just not a problem. A finer crush might cause this to be a bigger issue, but it won’t make better beer.
Have you ever had the pump clog? I have to use a brew bag instead of the malt pipe or else the pump clogs and I get too much grain bits in the wort every time.
Hi Joe, thanks for your question. I have not had the pump clog during the mash, and haven't felt the need to use a bag. My preference would be to mill the grain a little less fine. That said however, I have definitely heard of people having great results using a brew bag.
Thanks for the vid. I’m going to brew my 2nd batch on my M&B with pump next weekend. I think I’ll like this setup better than my Igloo mash tun and kettle. It is my understanding when using dry yeast, it’s not necessary to aerate with and oxygen tank and stone.
Thanks for the reply Dan! Dry yeast is packaged with alot of reserves to help it get through the adaptive and growth phases, and doesn't require as much oxygen as a liquid yeast would. But it still needs some. So while it is not necessary to use pure oxygen, my preference is to use it, since I can.
Thanks for your question. Once fermentation is complete, the beer will need to be carbonated either by adding priming sugar and putting it in bottles, or force carbonating in a keg.
@@alconeaev I usually recommend 17-21 days in the fermenting bucket. Minimum of 14 days, but after 21 days I feel like it can start to pick up off flavors from sitting on the sediment.
Didn't see this asked in the comments at first glance, but what Brewing Software are you using, recommendations? I am currently using BeerSmith and I am finding it a bit complicated for a newbie.
Hello Elan, thanks for asking. I use BeerSmith, and personally I wouldn't use anything else. It does have alot of capabilities, so I can understand that all of the options can be confusing as you are learning. Others that I have seen people using are Brewers Friend, BrewFather, or BrewGR. Though I personally don't have much experience with ane of these. If you have any questions regarding BeerSmith, or maybe just wondering how to make it do what you want, please feel free to email me directly at jon@jonshomebrew.com I'd be happy to lend any help I can. ~Cheers!
Thanks for your question! I did keep them on. They are Silicone and can handle the heat, and I like the additional space they add to the feet. I'll remove them eventually if it looks like they are deteriorating.
Hi James, thanks for your question. The mash and boil will do great as a mash tun! It would allow you do step mashes if desired, and even give you the option of a fly sparge set up which is not really possible when using it as your boil kettle. There would be some features that you wouldn't be using, but if you have a preferable option for your boil kettle then that is great!
@@jonshomebrewandwinesupply6117 yeah I'm just tired of inconsistent mash temps with my home depot cooler. I love my Blichman burner and my kettle and wort chiller do the job. Thanks for the reply. 🍻🤘🍻🤘
@@jameskocks4734 the only thing that will take a little experience with in order to get good consistency is the temperature setting. Keeping in mind that it is heating the small area of wort below the grain tube, pumping that back over the top, and recirculating to maintain temp. The element comes on a few degrees below the target temp, and cuts off a few degrees above. I find the best results when I set it about 2 degrees above my target temp.
@@jonshomebrewandwinesupply6117 its better than guessing especially with ambient temps with a cooler. but yes i remember in your vid about the plus and minus temps with the unit. im buying the one without the pump. i might reconsider just in case. thanks again.
Making my first all-grain while watching this vid - THANK YOU! Hydrating yeast; I have always removed a small sample of the wort before adding hops. About half a coffee cup is perfect, with a paper towel covering it. After it cools add the dry yeast to it, and stir well. I find this acclimates the yeast to the same wort for which I’m using it, and it accelerates fermentation start. Thoughts?
Hello, thanks for your comment! Honestly, you are better off re-hydrating dry yeast in plain water (sanitized of course) The goal of re-hydrating is to cause the yeast cell membranes to become pliable to where they can absorb and excrete compounds through them. The sugar content of wort inhibits this action to some extent.
@@jonshomebrewandwinesupply6117 Although I have had stupendous success with the method I listed, I am going to try it as you suggest - it makes sense. Sparging my first batch as we speak. Wish me luck.
I always hydrate my yeast, I use boiled water with sugar added,let it cool,then add the yeast. I usually do this just before I start brewing. Gives it the time to start gassing.
@@oldrikky I tried our host’s method of using straight water to hydrate the yeast and it worked, but it did not start the primary as quickly (for me anyway) as making a culture out of the wort (withdrawn prior to adding any hops), and starting it 20-30 minutes before adding it to the primary.
Thanks for your comment! The little diffuser's official name is Siphon Spray Wort Aerator. I carry them in my store. Check with your LHBS, hopefully they will have it. If not, try MoreBeer.com as an option.
Hello Nate! I stock this in my store, so I'd recommend checking with your local store first. If you can't find it there, here is a link to an online source: www.morebeer.com/products/siphon-spray-wort-aerator.html
@@jonshomebrewandwinesupply6117 thanks so much! Unfortunately my local shop went under during Covid. Closest shop is over an hour away. With gas prices the way they are, and driving a large truck, it's cheaper for me to pay the shipping. Hoping we get a new local shop soon
I use the M&B too and I love it. Like the plastic cover you use on the 4 holding tabs on the grain basket, where did you get those ? Tip for M&B basket, I use grain bag that make the all mashing process much easy and simple to clean.
If you did your mashing at 152 degrees and raise the grain basket to drain you are going to loose some heat in the grain and if you add your sparge water at 170 degrees you are NOT going to be anywhere near the 170 degrees that the grain bed needs to be? I have read and have always used sparge water that is 190 degrees and when added to my grain bed (I batch sparge) the water and grain are very close to the 170 degrees. Now this may be that I have misinterpreted what John Palmer was talking about when he mentioned sparge at 170 degrees but I don't think I did? It is my understanding the the grain bed needs to be at 170 degrees . Very similar to mashing at say 152 degrees I most always add 168 degree water to my mash tun and when mashing in my grain bed reaches the correct mash tempeture I am lookin for which is usually 152 degrees. I would appreciate your thoughts. Thanks
Hello Dale! In this case the hot water is really just rinsing the residual sugars from the grain. It is really not feasible to do a true "mash out" where the temperature of the mash would be raised to 168/170 degrees and held for 10-15 min. A mash out is not a necessary step however, and is only "needed" when you want to denature the enzymes and create an exact end point to the starch to sugar conversion (this happens at 168 degrees). In that case the goal would be to raise the entire mash temp above 168. For most homebrewers however the main benefit of 170 degree sparge water is just that a warmer mash is less viscous and may drain easier. Sparge water added above 180 degrees runs the risk of extracting tannins from the grain husks, so the for homebrewers the 170 degree figure commonly quoted is to give you a warm rinsing of the grains and still give you some wiggle room before reaching 180. In your case the thing to be cautious with is to be sure you stir in that 190 degree water pretty quickly so that there aren't areas of your mash sitting above 180. Keep in mind that grain at 65-70 degrees will cool your strike water alot more than grain at 152 degrees. Thanks for your great questions!
@@jonshomebrewandwinesupply6117 why is it not feasable to do a mash out at 170 for 10-15 minutes? Just set the temp to 170, let it come up and hold, then pull the grain pipe. I mean I agree it isn't necessary but in certain circumstances, but it's not hard to do at all with the M&B. I agree with the sparge water as well as I heat all of my water at one time to strike temps, then drain out to what I need for mash and use what was drained as sparge water. By the time I sparge it is usually around 130ish which is more than fine. i've even sparged with room temp water before with no issue.
You can find it here at MoreBeer.com, but I would encourage you to check with your LHBS first. ~Cheers! www.morebeer.com/products/siphon-spray-wort-aerator.html
Hi Colin, the filter is a 10" carbon block filter, and the key is to run through it slow. I would hope your Local Homebrew Shop would carry one, but if not you can find it here: www.morebeer.com/products/water-filter-kit-10.html
I usually do, depending on the beer I am brewing. I am not too scientific about it, but the water is fairly soft after filtering. I often use 1 total teaspoon that is a blend of gypsum and calcium chloride with the ratio varying depending on what sort of beer I am brewing.
Nice video! Could you fit a hop spider in there? If not, maybe some muslin sacks. That should allow you to have basically zero particulate matter and you could theoretically use the pump to transfer to the fermenter! Either way, looks good! I'm for sure considering buying this unit.
Thanks for your comment! You probably could fit a hop spider, or bag the hops to reduce sediment. There is always going to be hot break in the bottom, and some particulate that gets through the bottom of the grain tube. So I wouldn't recommend using the pump to transfer to the fermenter. I have found that the ball valve is at a good height to stay above most of the sediment that my batches have.
@@jonshomebrewandwinesupply6117 Oh nice. If the valve is high enough, that makes sense. Especially if you whirlpool it. Cool! Thanks for the reply, I'm definitely looking into one of these to start AG brewing!
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Oh man Acadian driftwood playing in the background!
Music of my heart.
Just stopped into the store today, was great seeing you after so long.
Definitely interested in these electric systems
After having used this unit for a couple of years now, I wanted to add a few other thigs that I have learned. First, I have found using 1/2# of Rice Hulls in every batch (1# if using flaked or huskless grain) really aids in a smooth recirculation. The 2nd Gen. grain tube may make this unnecessary, but I have found it to be very helpful in my gen. 1 grain tube. Second is running the pump slower than I show in the video. It doesn't need to run too fast to efficiently pull that hot wort from the bottom. Many of the issues I have seen people have stem from pumping too fast and running the bottom of the vessel dry. Make sure you can always see wort between the grain tube and the outside wall. Lastly, I have started using 7 gallons of wort for my pre-boil volume every batch. This allows me to run a half gallon or so off into a bucket before moving relatively clean wort to my fermenter. Happy Brewing! ~Cheers!
That display gives me PTSD, reminds me of a reefer unit. Don’t miss trucking.
Haha i just read this sitting in my office at Thermo King. LOL
Really appreciated the video demonstrating how the system works. I have been skeptical of 120V units so I was happy to see your work flow. Looks like a sight gauge would be a worthwhile addition to this system.
Thank you Michael!
Well done ! one of the best straight forward videos I've seen. Thankfully no irritating background music it interfere with the instructions. As a Mash & Boil user myself Jon's procedure is almost the same as mine although mine is a pump less version.
Thank you Joe!
Very helpful. Thanks. Getting ready to do my first batch with my Mash and Boil soon! Appreciate the tips
Thank you Scott! I hope the batch turned out great! ~Cheers!
@@jonshomebrewandwinesupply6117 what do you use to clean your equipment? And where did you get the little diffuser on the pump?
Hi @@ssiem37. Great questions! I use PBW, fill it to the top and soak with the malt pipe inside. I recirc the pump for a little bit, let it sit, then recirc a little more. After draining a soft sponge usually gets rid of anything else. then a good rinse! I'd recommend checking with your local shop for the aerator. If not, they can be found here: www.morebeer.com/products/siphon-spray-wort-aerator.html
Great video,Thanks. I have a similar system from " Brewmonk" So easy to control temperature,time etc.
Glad I found your channel, I've enjoyed shopping at your store!
Thank you!
I've been using a grain bag in the grain pipe and double milling my grains like with BIAB and I can consistently hit 80+ efficiencies!! I love my M&B although i wish i got one with the integrated pump.I bought mine before they made them with the pump. Oh well, i rigged a cheap pump and sparge arm to recirculate and it works well for me.
Just purchased this system to do my first all grain beer and corn mash. Great video explaining how to use the Brewers Edge as part of the process. Thanks for the video!
My pleasure Tom! Hope it all goes great for you! ~Cheers!
Excellent video I need to say. It helped me quite a lot with my new Brewers Edge. Thanks for doing that video
Thank you for watching!
Great video! Thank you. I bought my M&B a couple of years ago when we had our second daughter. Too busy to go up to the brew house so I thought I would just use it in the kitchen while watching the kids. Still have not used it but you have made it look so easy. Getting excited once more.
Thank you Robert!
I love that. Thanks for the video. Subbed and waiting for new ones :) AND I think "touching stone" is a "big lie" (not your fault ever brewer says that) because hops have lots of oil than human hand.
a case of Pliny.. you're spoiled lol.. Good Brewday!!! I have a first gen mash and boil (without the pump) and it's a great all in one kit for the price.
I have the same, first gen. I really like it. I bought a small pump to try recirculating but I haven’t used it yet. I get very high efficiency without it. Still, I’ll get around to it! Great brew day. I love hitting my numbers. 🍻
@@CurvedAdjacent i use mine and mostly works ok the pump that is
Great video. I'm getting M&B with pump for Christmas, so I want to gain as much knowledge on using it as possible. I want to hit the ground running!
Thank you!
Did you get the system. If so, how do you like it so far?
@@hackattack7811 I did get it. I've done 5 or 6 brews on it already, and I love it. It is a little slow to get up to temp, and the boil isn't a rolling boil, but it has simplified my brew day and and reduced it by a couple of hours.
Thanks for the video!!...I'm curious as to where you go the oxygen tank dial fitting....Was that available where you purchased the Benzomatic?
Thanks for your comment Marc! The Oxygen regulator that I use is available in many homebrew shops, so if you have a local store I would try there first (we carry them here in Puyallup WA). If not, it is available through more beer. www.morebeer.com/products/oxygen-regulator.html
Excellent video. Cheers!
Thanks Kirk!
Does that grain basket keep all things from getting out or have some particles of grain made it past? I dont want to take a change of scorching something that makes it through.
Hi, thanks for your question. There are usually a small amount of grain particles that get through the holes in the grain basket, but never enough that it has caused a problem for me. With the recirculating pump these particles are moved back to the top of the grain bed pretty easily. There are definitely people who share your concern and use a straining bag inside the grain tube. My preference is to not use a bag because it would hinder the recirculation. And, it makes great beer just the way it is! With the level my grain is crushed the tiny bit of grain that gets through is just not a problem. A finer crush might cause this to be a bigger issue, but it won’t make better beer.
i attached a sight glass to mine and bought a pump,had mine for 3 years now
I need to do this. Trying to check the readings with a flashlight is a pain in the butt!!
Have you ever had the pump clog? I have to use a brew bag instead of the malt pipe or else the pump clogs and I get too much grain bits in the wort every time.
Hi Joe, thanks for your question. I have not had the pump clog during the mash, and haven't felt the need to use a bag. My preference would be to mill the grain a little less fine. That said however, I have definitely heard of people having great results using a brew bag.
Thanks for the vid. I’m going to brew my 2nd batch on my M&B with pump next weekend. I think I’ll like this setup better than my Igloo mash tun and kettle. It is my understanding when using dry yeast, it’s not necessary to aerate with and oxygen tank and stone.
Thanks for the reply Dan! Dry yeast is packaged with alot of reserves to help it get through the adaptive and growth phases, and doesn't require as much oxygen as a liquid yeast would. But it still needs some. So while it is not necessary to use pure oxygen, my preference is to use it, since I can.
I'm not a pro by no means but I always use oxygen even with dry yeast.
Hi,well done! Do you need to carbonize it in bottles after all this process? Thank you
Thanks for your question. Once fermentation is complete, the beer will need to be carbonated either by adding priming sugar and putting it in bottles, or force carbonating in a keg.
@@jonshomebrewandwinesupply6117 Thank you!
For how long do you keep it in bucket before bottling? 30 days?
@@alconeaev I usually recommend 17-21 days in the fermenting bucket. Minimum of 14 days, but after 21 days I feel like it can start to pick up off flavors from sitting on the sediment.
Didn't see this asked in the comments at first glance, but what Brewing Software are you using, recommendations? I am currently using BeerSmith and I am finding it a bit complicated for a newbie.
Hello Elan, thanks for asking. I use BeerSmith, and personally I wouldn't use anything else. It does have alot of capabilities, so I can understand that all of the options can be confusing as you are learning. Others that I have seen people using are Brewers Friend, BrewFather, or BrewGR. Though I personally don't have much experience with ane of these. If you have any questions regarding BeerSmith, or maybe just wondering how to make it do what you want, please feel free to email me directly at jon@jonshomebrew.com I'd be happy to lend any help I can. ~Cheers!
So, I'm curious... do you still have the plastic shipping plugs on your grain basket?
Thanks for your question! I did keep them on. They are Silicone and can handle the heat, and I like the additional space they add to the feet. I'll remove them eventually if it looks like they are deteriorating.
thanks for the video. honestly i just want to mash with it. will it be good for that job only?
Hi James, thanks for your question. The mash and boil will do great as a mash tun! It would allow you do step mashes if desired, and even give you the option of a fly sparge set up which is not really possible when using it as your boil kettle. There would be some features that you wouldn't be using, but if you have a preferable option for your boil kettle then that is great!
@@jonshomebrewandwinesupply6117 yeah I'm just tired of inconsistent mash temps with my home depot cooler. I love my Blichman burner and my kettle and wort chiller do the job. Thanks for the reply. 🍻🤘🍻🤘
@@jameskocks4734 the only thing that will take a little experience with in order to get good consistency is the temperature setting. Keeping in mind that it is heating the small area of wort below the grain tube, pumping that back over the top, and recirculating to maintain temp. The element comes on a few degrees below the target temp, and cuts off a few degrees above. I find the best results when I set it about 2 degrees above my target temp.
@@jonshomebrewandwinesupply6117 its better than guessing especially with ambient temps with a cooler. but yes i remember in your vid about the plus and minus temps with the unit. im buying the one without the pump. i might reconsider just in case. thanks again.
Making my first all-grain while watching this vid - THANK YOU!
Hydrating yeast; I have always removed a small sample of the wort before adding hops. About half a coffee cup is perfect, with a paper towel covering it. After it cools add the dry yeast to it, and stir well. I find this acclimates the yeast to the same wort for which I’m using it, and it accelerates fermentation start. Thoughts?
Hello, thanks for your comment! Honestly, you are better off re-hydrating dry yeast in plain water (sanitized of course) The goal of re-hydrating is to cause the yeast cell membranes to become pliable to where they can absorb and excrete compounds through them. The sugar content of wort inhibits this action to some extent.
@@jonshomebrewandwinesupply6117 Although I have had stupendous success with the method I listed, I am going to try it as you suggest - it makes sense.
Sparging my first batch as we speak. Wish me luck.
@@tgwazu Awesome! I hope it turns out great!
I always hydrate my yeast, I use boiled water with sugar added,let it cool,then add the yeast. I usually do this just before I start brewing. Gives it the time to start gassing.
@@oldrikky I tried our host’s method of using straight water to hydrate the yeast and it worked, but it did not start the primary as quickly (for me anyway) as making a culture out of the wort (withdrawn prior to adding any hops), and starting it 20-30 minutes before adding it to the primary.
Good vid, thanks! Where'd you get the little diffuser?
Thanks for your comment! The little diffuser's official name is Siphon Spray Wort Aerator. I carry them in my store. Check with your LHBS, hopefully they will have it. If not, try MoreBeer.com as an option.
So where did you get the diffuser? Looking at buying this
Hello Nate! I stock this in my store, so I'd recommend checking with your local store first. If you can't find it there, here is a link to an online source: www.morebeer.com/products/siphon-spray-wort-aerator.html
@@jonshomebrewandwinesupply6117 thanks so much! Unfortunately my local shop went under during Covid. Closest shop is over an hour away. With gas prices the way they are, and driving a large truck, it's cheaper for me to pay the shipping. Hoping we get a new local shop soon
I use the M&B too and I love it.
Like the plastic cover you use on the 4 holding tabs on the grain basket, where did you get those ?
Tip for M&B basket, I use grain bag that make the all mashing process much easy and simple to clean.
Those covers came on the malt tube when purchased. Not sure if they are available aftermarket.
If you did your mashing at 152 degrees and raise the grain basket to drain you are going to loose some heat in the grain and if you add your sparge water at 170 degrees you are NOT going to be anywhere near the 170 degrees that the grain bed needs to be? I have read and have always used sparge water that is 190 degrees and when added to my grain bed (I batch sparge) the water and grain are very close to the 170 degrees. Now this may be that I have misinterpreted what John Palmer was talking about when he mentioned sparge at 170 degrees but I don't think I did? It is my understanding the the grain bed needs to be at 170 degrees . Very similar to mashing at say 152 degrees I most always add 168 degree water to my mash tun and when mashing in my grain bed reaches the correct mash tempeture I am lookin for which is usually 152 degrees. I would appreciate your thoughts. Thanks
Hello Dale! In this case the hot water is really just rinsing the residual sugars from the grain. It is really not feasible to do a true "mash out" where the temperature of the mash would be raised to 168/170 degrees and held for 10-15 min. A mash out is not a necessary step however, and is only "needed" when you want to denature the enzymes and create an exact end point to the starch to sugar conversion (this happens at 168 degrees). In that case the goal would be to raise the entire mash temp above 168. For most homebrewers however the main benefit of 170 degree sparge water is just that a warmer mash is less viscous and may drain easier. Sparge water added above 180 degrees runs the risk of extracting tannins from the grain husks, so the for homebrewers the 170 degree figure commonly quoted is to give you a warm rinsing of the grains and still give you some wiggle room before reaching 180. In your case the thing to be cautious with is to be sure you stir in that 190 degree water pretty quickly so that there aren't areas of your mash sitting above 180. Keep in mind that grain at 65-70 degrees will cool your strike water alot more than grain at 152 degrees. Thanks for your great questions!
@@jonshomebrewandwinesupply6117 Thanks for the reply John, I will try doing that on my next batch and it will also save me some time.
@@jonshomebrewandwinesupply6117 why is it not feasable to do a mash out at 170 for 10-15 minutes? Just set the temp to 170, let it come up and hold, then pull the grain pipe. I mean I agree it isn't necessary but in certain circumstances, but it's not hard to do at all with the M&B. I agree with the sparge water as well as I heat all of my water at one time to strike temps, then drain out to what I need for mash and use what was drained as sparge water. By the time I sparge it is usually around 130ish which is more than fine. i've even sparged with room temp water before with no issue.
What is the part number, model and where you purchased the spare diffuser
You can find it here at MoreBeer.com, but I would encourage you to check with your LHBS first. ~Cheers! www.morebeer.com/products/siphon-spray-wort-aerator.html
What water filter are you using?
Hi Colin, the filter is a 10" carbon block filter, and the key is to run through it slow. I would hope your Local Homebrew Shop would carry one, but if not you can find it here: www.morebeer.com/products/water-filter-kit-10.html
@@jonshomebrewandwinesupply6117 once the water is filtered, do you do add any minerals or stuff?
I usually do, depending on the beer I am brewing. I am not too scientific about it, but the water is fairly soft after filtering. I often use 1 total teaspoon that is a blend of gypsum and calcium chloride with the ratio varying depending on what sort of beer I am brewing.
Nice video! Could you fit a hop spider in there? If not, maybe some muslin sacks. That should allow you to have basically zero particulate matter and you could theoretically use the pump to transfer to the fermenter!
Either way, looks good! I'm for sure considering buying this unit.
Thanks for your comment! You probably could fit a hop spider, or bag the hops to reduce sediment. There is always going to be hot break in the bottom, and some particulate that gets through the bottom of the grain tube. So I wouldn't recommend using the pump to transfer to the fermenter. I have found that the ball valve is at a good height to stay above most of the sediment that my batches have.
@@jonshomebrewandwinesupply6117 Oh nice. If the valve is high enough, that makes sense. Especially if you whirlpool it. Cool! Thanks for the reply, I'm definitely looking into one of these to start AG brewing!
@@jonshomebrewandwinesupply6117 hop spiders work great!! So do muslin sacks.