This is fantastic. I do appreciate the knowledge. There is a lot to learn when it comes to the K40. I have learned a lot of tip and tricks from so many in this community. I have to say your the first one I have seen to address the bed leveling and focused beam issue. This is one of my problems that I can now check off my list. Thank you!
PERFECT! Thank you for sharing. I'm getting the K40 for Christmas (wife confirms the yes!) - and I want to be able to raise/lower as needed. You made it simple!
That is a clever idea the way the bolts line up to the surface to set the height. Even if you couldn't get the perfect length you'd just need longer ones and cut them down. Going to stash this idea away - am sure it will be handy down the line.
Thanks! Its a simple one but I definitely think keeping it simple is ideal for this application. Can definitely cut down longer bolts or maybe add spacer pieces to the bottom for the shorter bolts to sit on. Lots of possibilities 😊
I was thinking of cutting off part of the exhaust duct and then figuring out how to make a bed to lower and raise for my cutting boards, but this is so much easier! It's a very simple design and is pretty genius just to always know "at the top of the bolt". Thank you for sharing!
@Matthew Wolfe I completely removed my exhaust duct by unscrewing it from the back. Saves having any sharp/jagged parts and I've found that the extraction is still works fine.
Great idea! I’ve just made mine using rivnuts in the corners. No gluing, welding, or pop rivets. Rivnuts are strong and give perfect threads for the bolts
My first thought was, "Those bolts take up too much bed room". Then you showed how the top of the bolts are equal to the focal link of the laser and my thoughts changed to "Simple yet genius". Good job man!
Thanks Dave! I just wanted to keep it as simple as possible. I dont even have to think when setting the focal length. Just make sure all 4 bolts are flush and its good to go
Thanks Julie! Really glad you found it helpful 😊 its a very simple concept but its been working great for me. Dont have to think just make sure the screws are level and done haha just how I like it
I bought an air assist nozzle off ebay that also is adjustable for focus. Much easier to raise or lower the nozzle than the entire bed. I'm going to use your bed design, it'll be adjustable for levelling & coarse adjustment. Then use the nozzle for fine adjustment.
I just bought one of these to manufacture silicone foam gaskets that are a total pig to make with a graphtec knife plotter. I will be making one of your height adjuster beds with the honeycomb mesh on it. Your mesh looks ideal for putting a bit of plywood on it. But the silicone foam I am using is about 3mm thick and very flexible so its going to not lie nice and flat on the mesh. Are you aware if I can get hold of a finer honeycomb mesh ? Cheers for a very clear video.
@@AverageJoesJoinery Made the bed today and messed it up LOL The glue stuck in some places, not others! But we cobbled it together and it's excellent. I was able to go from 3mm deal to 30.5 and 40mm wooden blocks with ease. Thank you.
Heading to the hardware store to duplicate what you have shown here. Excellent idea. I am using expanded metal instead of honeycomb, so some slight mods may be necessary. This is simply better than wasting $200+ USD on a powered Z table.
this is a very interesting machine, i hope you make some more videos of it! I checked out the link in your discription but it says Currently unavailable
I’ll definitely be making more videos around the laser. It was available before the video went live 😕 there are a lot of similar models of the K40 laser. Ive had a good experience with mine so Id sooner link to that particular one. Hopefully they get them back in stock soon
@@AverageJoesJoinery thank you so much for your awnser! i will save that link. I'm looking forward to see more videos of this laser! Greetings Christofix
Thanks Edward! I dont have enough experience to be able to review the laser at this point but I’ll definitely be using it in future projects and Ive got some other upgrades planned 😊
Thanks Muhammed! Since making this new bed Ive been able to take advantage of the full cutting area where as before I could use a quarter of it in the clamp
Great design! I did something similar with a belt and a knob so it can be adjusted while inside the machine. Unfortunately, the bed isn't stable and I get wavy lines, everywhere. Do you have this same issue?
Thats a great idea! Be much more convenient thats for sure haha I haven’t had stability issues. With each bolt/leg able to adjust independently I can make sure its sitting level in the machine. It may be worth trying a slower speed to reduce shaking perhaps?
great idea to use until I can get round to making a motorised bed. Cheers. I'll actually 3d print corners and embed nuts in those rather than cut a thread. You could also have superglued nuts below the holes. But simple and effective idea :-) Okay - did you cut the bolts down to the correct size ? An 80mm bolt is 80mm of thread PLUS the depth of the bolt head. In my case with 10 mm hex bolts - it's an extra 7mm.
I looked at the motorised beds but was put off by the price haha also wanted to maximise the depth I could use. The 80mm bolts including the head falls about bang on where my focal length is. I bought 75mm and 85mm to see which was closest but 80 was the sweet spot.
Ahh typical! 😕 There are a lot of these machines that are all very similar. Id sooner leave the link to the particular one I bought though because Ive had a good experience with it
You used 100% the right epoxy, perfect for the job. If you don't abrade the surface it just isn't going to work. It's like trying to stick an egg to a Teflon pan. The aluminium is just too slick and the epoxy just peels off. Especially if it gets a little warm, like from a drill.
lock 2 nuts at the top of the legs, and you can use an electric screwdriver with a nut driver head to set the height. (edit-add) reinforce those threads in the aluminium if your going to do the electric screwdriver thing...
@@AverageJoesJoinery nice one for the reply! I just got my laser working on the upgrades and mods. Planning on doing something similar but using a Lab Jack to adjust the hight.
I have the slightly different model (k3020). The nozzle itself can be lower and raised. The bed's height can also easily be adjusted. But the price of the machine here(malaysia) is around 1000usd 😔.
Hey, nice vid ! I want to buy one for myself and j have questions for you, maybe you can help me a little bit. What is a maximum engraving size with this bed ? What software was included with machine ? Does it work with k40 whisperer ?
Thanks Michal! It can engrave to the size of an A4 sheet of paper. The software it came with was awful. It was a version corel draw. I use mine with K40 Whisperer and it does everything I want
Hello. I have being trying to guess the exact length of the bolts. Unfortunately, your explanation is not very clear. You say that the distance between the bottom of the machine to the focus point is 85 mm on the top part of the bed included with the machine including the clamp). Then why do you advice to use 80 mm bolts? I thought that the top of the bolts would coincide with the focal distance from the lens to the material which is 50.8mm but with 80mm bolts and actual measure being 85, I just don't get it. I don't want to appear dumb but I just don't understand it. I appreciate a little more clear explanation here.
Hi Eduardo, sorry if my explanation wasnt clear. I advise using 80mm bolts because the heads of the bolts arent included in their stated measurement. So 80mm long bolts measure roughly 85mm including the head of the bolt. I opted to measure my focal point from the base of the machine upwards rather than from the lens downwards. This way, I can be sure if the material I want engrave is flush with the bolts then it is in focus. You will need to check your own focal point as it may differ from mine
Thank you very much Joe for your explanation. Now I find very clear. I am making a wooden frame and instead of the honeycomb, I am installing several 1mm steel wire lengths separated more or less one inch between them. Finally, The focus measurement is from the base of the machine to the border of the tube that hols the lens or to the actual lens position. As you know, the lens is slightly upward inside the tube that holds it. Again thanks and I will let you know my final results. EDUARDO
That's good thinking bud. There was a great loss today in the entertainment world. The man who wrote the song "Hokey Pokey" died. What was really horrible is that they had trouble keeping the body in the casket. They'd put his left leg in and.. .well, you know the rest
2 things :) First of, where did You buy the honey comb sheet? :) Second.. a better bed to make, that makes it MUCH easier to adjust... Take a scissor lift (See link) www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-Laboratory-Lifting-Platform-Lift-Tool-Scissor-Rack-Silver-Stainless-Steel/264314699660?hash=item3d8a623f8c:g:ENoAAOSwupBc0nUo rivet or bolt to bottom, extend the adjusting screw out through the laser chassi in the front (do require some drilling:) put honeycomb table on top of the lift. (You can make a distance piece to hold between laserhead and material to know the focal point) You can also use 2 lifts, one on right and one on left side so in case You have something (material) that are angeled you can adjust the two sides differently to level Your work piece... This mod works very well :)
Thanks mate! Glad you liked the design 😊 I did have a look at some scissor lifts but didnt want to give up the depth they would take up. Here is where I bought the honeycomb from: www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/core-materials/aluminium-honeycomb/19mm-aluminium-honeycomb.html
Ive heard its really hard to weld aluminium and you need to be good at welding to do it right. I guess you could have used rivets as that's cheap and easily done. This webpage k40laser.se/diy-how-to/setting-the-proper-focus-in-your-k40/ was quite helpful and I like the ramp test video at the bottom
Hi Joe, I have the same laser but also a 3000mw desktop laser by KKMoon. I made a similar platform for it so that I could place larger items under the beam. I use that for engraving my maker's mark onto my woodturning etc. I hadn't even considered doing it for my 40W laser but I'll be on the case soon. i.imgur.com/Vaql85B.jpg i.imgur.com/tz6tZc6.jpg I engraved this on the little laser as well i.imgur.com/vpi2hUx.jpg a piece of oak newell post with a tealight holder mounted in the top. Keep up the good work.
Hi Bob! Great idea with the base and love the engravings 👌 an adjustable bed has helped me a ton with the 40W laser. I hope one day I can have a large industrial laser but thats a long way off haha
This is brilliant. I can't tell you how many videos I've watched on bed leveling and this is the first one that made any sense.
Thanks Thom! Glad you’ve found it helpful. I often think simple is best haha
This is fantastic. I do appreciate the knowledge. There is a lot to learn when it comes to the K40. I have learned a lot of tip and tricks from so many in this community. I have to say your the first one I have seen to address the bed leveling and focused beam issue. This is one of my problems that I can now check off my list. Thank you!
PERFECT! Thank you for sharing. I'm getting the K40 for Christmas (wife confirms the yes!) - and I want to be able to raise/lower as needed. You made it simple!
Glad you found it helpful mate! Enjoy the K40, its a great bit of kit 😁
Like your calibration method with top of screw matching top of material. Simply elegant solution!
That is a clever idea the way the bolts line up to the surface to set the height.
Even if you couldn't get the perfect length you'd just need longer ones and cut them down.
Going to stash this idea away - am sure it will be handy down the line.
Thanks! Its a simple one but I definitely think keeping it simple is ideal for this application. Can definitely cut down longer bolts or maybe add spacer pieces to the bottom for the shorter bolts to sit on. Lots of possibilities 😊
Second that. The benefits of being able to align things outside the cutter with nothing more than eyes or a straight bit is genius.
Mate that is brilliant.
Sounds like you orignally come from my neck of the woods too.
The simplest ideas are always the best. I'm nicking it ;)
Cheers Jason! Simple is definitely best haha I’m Wolverhampton based 🐺 haha
@@AverageJoesJoinery Definitely simple is best.
I'm originally from Coseley just down the road :)
Can I use peg board for co2 laser bed?
But the issue it has more area and less holes!
So laser will touch the bed more often!
Will that be an issue?
I was thinking of cutting off part of the exhaust duct and then figuring out how to make a bed to lower and raise for my cutting boards, but this is so much easier! It's a very simple design and is pretty genius just to always know "at the top of the bolt". Thank you for sharing!
Thanks mate! Really glad you liked it. I often think simple is best haha
@Matthew Wolfe
I completely removed my exhaust duct by unscrewing it from the back. Saves having any sharp/jagged parts and I've found that the extraction is still works fine.
Great idea! I’ve just made mine using rivnuts in the corners. No gluing, welding, or pop rivets. Rivnuts are strong and give perfect threads for the bolts
Hmm I’ll have to have a look at those. Metalwork is still alien to me haha
Nice idea, not seen it done that way before.
I am glad my laser has a motorised z axis, saves so much hassle.
Wish mine had a motorised z axis haha might be able to upgrade one day
My first thought was, "Those bolts take up too much bed room". Then you showed how the top of the bolts are equal to the focal link of the laser and my thoughts changed to "Simple yet genius". Good job man!
Thanks Dave! I just wanted to keep it as simple as possible. I dont even have to think when setting the focal length. Just make sure all 4 bolts are flush and its good to go
Well done. Easy to make with readily accessible parts.
Thanks Brian! 😊
Simple but brilliant very well thought out well done mate
Thanks mate! 😊
Setting the focal point using the top of the bolts is genius. I can just imagine it being a right pain trying to measure it each time!
It makes it really simple now. No need to measure so thats always a good thing haha
Yo, using the bolts to measure the focal point is a great idea. Thanks for the video, even a year later.
Thanks Tony! I think the simple ones are always best haha
You are a genius! Thank you so much for sharing. My machine arrives on Wed. you have no idea how much you've helped me. Have a good one!
:)
Thanks Julie! Really glad you found it helpful 😊 its a very simple concept but its been working great for me. Dont have to think just make sure the screws are level and done haha just how I like it
Perfect. Thank you.
Cheers Gordon! 😊
Top idea pal thank you
I bought an air assist nozzle off ebay that also is adjustable for focus. Much easier to raise or lower the nozzle than the entire bed. I'm going to use your bed design, it'll be adjustable for levelling & coarse adjustment. Then use the nozzle for fine adjustment.
As far as I know the air nozzle doesnt focus does it?
@@AverageJoesJoinery The stock one doesn't. But this one does: search "K series laser head 5030" on ebay.
if you tap the holes a bit bigger and put springs on the bolts , you can use butterfly nuts to lower and raise the bed
Thats a great idea! I’ll have to give it a go on the next revision haha
Explained perfectly. Great idea.
Thanks for sharing your project. 👍
Thanks mate! Glad you found it helpful 😊
love the 85mm bolts mate. making wooden coffee boxes in Colombia
Thanks Jon!
This was really helpful. Great advice
Thanks mate! Glad you found it helpful 😊
Alluminum brazing is SUPER easy!
I’ve bever done it before. Worried I’d mess it up haha
I wondered where you where going at first but this is really clever ans simple to use.
Glad it turned out useful in the end haha Thanks Jim! 😊
I just bought one of these to manufacture silicone foam gaskets that are a total pig to make with a graphtec knife plotter. I will be making one of your height adjuster beds with the honeycomb mesh on it. Your mesh looks ideal for putting a bit of plywood on it. But the silicone foam I am using is about 3mm thick and very flexible so its going to not lie nice and flat on the mesh. Are you aware if I can get hold of a finer honeycomb mesh ? Cheers for a very clear video.
I would go with pop rivets in the corners, to avoid glue failures. There are also rivets with threaded insides (Nutserts?).
I’ll have to check those out! Didnt know they had threaded variants
I was wondering what I was gonna do and now I do. Thank you for your help. Peace
Glad you found it helpful 😊
Nice video and the idea is good just need a lot more thinking of how to do it what you came up with is Ok for a start
Thanks Danny! It will definitely see me through for now 😊
Finally, a solution I just might be able to do. Thank you
Thanks Mary! Give it a go. Its been working great for me 😊
@@AverageJoesJoinery Made the bed today and messed it up LOL The glue stuck in some places, not others! But we cobbled it together and it's excellent. I was able to go from 3mm deal to 30.5 and 40mm wooden blocks with ease. Thank you.
Hi, could you advise where you got the honeycomb material for the bed please?. thanks 👍
Hi Andy, this is what I used mate - www.easycomposites.co.uk/19mm-aluminium-honeycomb
Sometimes simplest is the best.
Couldnt agree more! Thanks Thomas😊
I hope you're going to do more videos relating to this. Interesting!!
Ive got a large project planned for a storage unit for it so hopefully it wont be too long before I can get that done haha
Great video! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Hunter! 😊
Would you mind sharing a link for where to buy the honeycomb mesh?
Here is the stuff I got mate :) www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/core-materials/aluminium-honeycomb/19mm-aluminium-honeycomb.html
Where did you get the honeycomb material? Thank you
This is where I got it from mate, www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/core-materials/aluminium-honeycomb/19mm-aluminium-honeycomb.html
Great idea,what size did you cut the aluminium angle. TY
Thanks Chris! I cut them to slightly larger than A4 dimension. So roughly 310mm for the long pieces and 220mm for the shorter pieces
@@AverageJoesJoinery thanks👍🏻 my new project
Very clever!
Thanks Steven! Glad you liked it 😊
Nice simple fix, good on ya and thanks for sharing, mate 👍
Thanks Bill! Glad you liked it 😊
Great video, I really want to pick up a laser engraver one day
Thanks mate! Its opened up a lot of possibilities having the engraver 👌
Hi, thank you for sharing. Is it difficult to take out the original bed?
Thanks! The original bed is pretty easy to remove. There are some set screws holding it in place but thats all
Heading to the hardware store to duplicate what you have shown here. Excellent idea. I am using expanded metal instead of honeycomb, so some slight mods may be necessary. This is simply better than wasting $200+ USD on a powered Z table.
Glad you’re gonna give it a go mate. Its a simple design but works well. Expanded sheet metal is a great choice
Thanks for this
Hi Joe. Nice upgrade bud.
Thanks Patrick! 😊
Bloody brilliant! This is one of those forehead-slappingly simple 'why didn't I think of that! The bloody bolts- of course! *slap* Nice one!
Thanks Bob! I think the simple solutions are always best haha
this is a very interesting machine, i hope you make some more videos of it! I checked out the link in your discription but it says Currently unavailable
I’ll definitely be making more videos around the laser. It was available before the video went live 😕 there are a lot of similar models of the K40 laser. Ive had a good experience with mine so Id sooner link to that particular one. Hopefully they get them back in stock soon
@@AverageJoesJoinery thank you so much for your awnser! i will save that link. I'm looking forward to see more videos of this laser! Greetings Christofix
Thanks! I might get in touch with the seller to see when they expect to have them back in stock
@@AverageJoesJoinery thanks man! i will check out the link from time to time!
excellent idea!!!!
Thanks mate!
Genious! Thanks
Thanks mate!
Hello! I was not able to find the aluminium webcomb. Can you please send me a link to it? Thanks!
This is where I got it from mate www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/core-materials/aluminium-honeycomb/19mm-aluminium-honeycomb-10mm.html
Great video, would love to see some sort of review or more details of the laser! very keen to get one myself
Thanks Edward! I dont have enough experience to be able to review the laser at this point but I’ll definitely be using it in future projects and Ive got some other upgrades planned 😊
Where did you get this honeycomb sheet?
Slot the 4 bolts and use a normal screwdriver to lower / raise the bolts
Thats a great idea! Thanks
I know is an old video but, where did you get the honeycomb material from?
love it ! thx
Thanks Peter! Glad you liked it 😊
Awesome! Thank you for this great idea!
Thanks Chris! 😊
Very clever. Thanks for sharing the missteps. That's helpful. How much work space did you gain from the modification?
Thanks Muhammed! Since making this new bed Ive been able to take advantage of the full cutting area where as before I could use a quarter of it in the clamp
That’s a great idea, looks ok 👍. Looks sturdy enough for its function
Thanks Paul! 😊
did you ever figure out a way to make something work?
Great design! I did something similar with a belt and a knob so it can be adjusted while inside the machine. Unfortunately, the bed isn't stable and I get wavy lines, everywhere. Do you have this same issue?
Thats a great idea! Be much more convenient thats for sure haha I haven’t had stability issues. With each bolt/leg able to adjust independently I can make sure its sitting level in the machine. It may be worth trying a slower speed to reduce shaking perhaps?
@@AverageJoesJoinery I might try a lower speed, however, it's only running at 35mm/s, doesn't seem bad at all.
That is slow. I typically cut at 5mm/s but engrave/etch at 150/200mm/s
Average Joe's Joinery yeah, I think I’ll stabilize it with some type of screw from the sides of the machine
Good idea!
great idea to use until I can get round to making a motorised bed. Cheers. I'll actually 3d print corners and embed nuts in those rather than cut a thread. You could also have superglued nuts below the holes. But simple and effective idea :-) Okay - did you cut the bolts down to the correct size ? An 80mm bolt is 80mm of thread PLUS the depth of the bolt head. In my case with 10 mm hex bolts - it's an extra 7mm.
I looked at the motorised beds but was put off by the price haha also wanted to maximise the depth I could use. The 80mm bolts including the head falls about bang on where my focal length is. I bought 75mm and 85mm to see which was closest but 80 was the sweet spot.
That's a brilliant idea. I've just got the same machine. What coolant are you using?
Thanks Julien! I’m just using deoinised water
Do you sell this item? I couldn't make one myself
I dont sell them unfortunately. Its very rough and ready haha
Nice work thank you for sharing : )
Nice job Joe I love it 😜👌
Thanks mate! :)
The link you provided says the product is unavailable :(
Ahh typical! 😕 There are a lot of these machines that are all very similar. Id sooner leave the link to the particular one I bought though because Ive had a good experience with it
brilliant! if you could put a knob on the top then you wouldnt have to take out the bed to adjust it.
A friend of mine has actually sent me some 3D painted bits to have a go at making a new bed soon 🤞
@@AverageJoesJoinery great!
Great idea Joe.. I'm new to laser engravers I've started off with the eleksmaker A3 pro... Very interested in the k40 how it performs ercy
Thanks mate! So far so good with this laser. Im still learning with it though
Great tutorial!
Thanks mate! 😊
You used 100% the right epoxy, perfect for the job. If you don't abrade the surface it just isn't going to work. It's like trying to stick an egg to a Teflon pan. The aluminium is just too slick and the epoxy just peels off. Especially if it gets a little warm, like from a drill.
lock 2 nuts at the top of the legs, and you can use an electric screwdriver with a nut driver head to set the height. (edit-add) reinforce those threads in the aluminium if your going to do the electric screwdriver thing...
What size is the bed 200mm x 300mm?
or other? thanks m8
The bed is slightly bigger than an A4 sheet of paper so roughly 310mm x 220mm. I just made it as big as would fit in my laser machine haha
@@AverageJoesJoinery nice one for the reply! I just got my laser working on the upgrades and mods. Planning on doing something similar but using a Lab Jack to adjust the hight.
Very informative video, and a great mod! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks mate! 😊
Thumbs up and subscribed! great video !
Thanks mate! Glad you liked it 😊
Show us more of the stuff you’ve been making with it.
Ive got a project I’ve been working using the laser. Hopefully I’ll be able to get it released soon
Nice
Thanks mate!
I have the slightly different model (k3020). The nozzle itself can be lower and raised. The bed's height can also easily be adjusted. But the price of the machine here(malaysia) is around 1000usd 😔.
Also, i would strongly suggest adding air assist to your machine. It makes huge different when cutting acrylic and rubber.
I wish the head height on mine was adjustable! Im hoping in the future I can upgrade to a larger machine though. I do plan to add air assist soon
Hey, nice vid ! I want to buy one for myself and j have questions for you, maybe you can help me a little bit.
What is a maximum engraving size with this bed ? What software was included with machine ? Does it work with k40 whisperer ?
Thanks Michal! It can engrave to the size of an A4 sheet of paper. The software it came with was awful. It was a version corel draw. I use mine with K40 Whisperer and it does everything I want
Hello. I have being trying to guess the exact length of the bolts. Unfortunately, your explanation is not very clear. You say that the distance between the bottom of the machine to the focus point is 85 mm on the top part of the bed included with the machine including the clamp). Then why do you advice to use 80 mm bolts? I thought that the top of the bolts would coincide with the focal distance from the lens to the material which is 50.8mm but with 80mm bolts and actual measure being 85, I just don't get it. I don't want to appear dumb but I just don't understand it. I appreciate a little more clear explanation here.
Hi Eduardo, sorry if my explanation wasnt clear. I advise using 80mm bolts because the heads of the bolts arent included in their stated measurement. So 80mm long bolts measure roughly 85mm including the head of the bolt.
I opted to measure my focal point from the base of the machine upwards rather than from the lens downwards. This way, I can be sure if the material I want engrave is flush with the bolts then it is in focus.
You will need to check your own focal point as it may differ from mine
Thank you very much Joe for your explanation. Now I find very clear. I am making a wooden frame and instead of the honeycomb, I am installing several 1mm steel wire lengths separated more or less one inch between them. Finally, The focus measurement is from the base of the machine to the border of the tube that hols the lens or to the actual lens position. As you know, the lens is slightly upward inside the tube that holds it. Again thanks and I will let you know my final results. EDUARDO
Now that is how to do a video.
Thanks Walter! 😊
50.8mm from the bottom of the laser head to the original bed.
That's good thinking bud.
There was a great loss today in the entertainment world. The man who wrote the song "Hokey Pokey" died. What was really horrible is that they had trouble keeping the body in the casket.
They'd put his left leg in and.. .well, you know the rest
Thanks Dale!
Lmao 🙈😂😂😂
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
👍😊
2 things :)
First of, where did You buy the honey comb sheet? :)
Second.. a better bed to make, that makes it MUCH easier to adjust...
Take a scissor lift (See link) www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-Laboratory-Lifting-Platform-Lift-Tool-Scissor-Rack-Silver-Stainless-Steel/264314699660?hash=item3d8a623f8c:g:ENoAAOSwupBc0nUo
rivet or bolt to bottom, extend the adjusting screw out through the laser chassi in the front (do require some drilling:) put honeycomb table on top of the lift. (You can make a distance piece to hold between laserhead and material to know the focal point)
You can also use 2 lifts, one on right and one on left side so in case You have something (material) that are angeled you can adjust the two sides differently to level Your work piece...
This mod works very well :)
Thanks mate! Glad you liked the design 😊
I did have a look at some scissor lifts but didnt want to give up the depth they would take up.
Here is where I bought the honeycomb from: www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/core-materials/aluminium-honeycomb/19mm-aluminium-honeycomb.html
NICE TO HEAR A FAMILIAR ACCENT :)
Its the best aye it! 😂
Ive heard its really hard to weld aluminium and you need to be good at welding to do it right. I guess you could have used rivets as that's cheap and easily done. This webpage k40laser.se/diy-how-to/setting-the-proper-focus-in-your-k40/ was quite helpful and I like the ramp test video at the bottom
Could have used rivets for sure! I’ll have to get a rivet gun. I’ll have to check out that site! Thank you 😊
Hi Joe, I have the same laser but also a 3000mw desktop laser by KKMoon. I made a similar platform for it so that I could place larger items under the beam. I use that for engraving my maker's mark onto my woodturning etc. I hadn't even considered doing it for my 40W laser but I'll be on the case soon. i.imgur.com/Vaql85B.jpg i.imgur.com/tz6tZc6.jpg I engraved this on the little laser as well i.imgur.com/vpi2hUx.jpg a piece of oak newell post with a tealight holder mounted in the top. Keep up the good work.
Hi Bob! Great idea with the base and love the engravings 👌 an adjustable bed has helped me a ton with the 40W laser. I hope one day I can have a large industrial laser but thats a long way off haha
@@AverageJoesJoinery Thanks for the kind words Joe.