Ford Model T - How to Replace Front Wheel Bearings
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- Опубликовано: 23 июн 2019
- Enthusiasts Website: www.fordmodelt.net/
In this video I walk you through step by step how to replace the front wheel bearings on your Model T, from driving out the old bearings to installing the new ones, and the learning curve along the way!
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I imported my 1925 Ford Model T from the USA, not far from Detroit, Michigan where it was built.
The Model T was manufactured between 1908 and 1927, and was know by various names including Tin Lizzie, Flivver, T‑Model Ford, or just 'T'.
The Model T set 1908 as the historic year that the automobile became popular. It is generally regarded as the first affordable automobile, the car that opened travel to the common middle-class American; some of this was because of Ford's innovations, including assembly line production instead of individual hand crafting.
On May 26, 1927, Henry Ford watched the 15 millionth Model T Ford roll off the assembly line at his factory in Highland Park, Michigan. 
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Netherlands here, thank you, just made the same mistake with my 1914....lucky, it came off easy...and now the wheel fits perfectly, THANKS, you are an angel....
Place a glob of grease on your palm, draw the larger side of the bearing across it in a scraping motion. Do this in small amounts until you see the grease flowing out the small side until full. When tightening the nut on the spindle, rotate the wheel to evenly distribute the force, rather than concentrating it on the stationary small line of the rollers. Probably no harm done. Keep the shiny side up.
I don't even have a Model T but there is something so soothing about watching these videos
You need to get one!!
Using the taper roller bearings should be a huge improvement over the old ball bearings, thanks for taking us along mate !
Thanks for this! About to do this job myself today! Appreciate the tutorial!
Glad to be able to help 🙂
Timken bearings are the best. Converting to tapered roller bearings is a plus. The old grease in the palm of your hand trick is hard to beat. I have a bearing packer tool, but I seldom use it. Old assembly line trick was to tighten the nut while the wheel is turning until the wheel stops, then back the nut off one flat of the nut, then find your cotter key alignment. If the wheel doesn't turn freely, back the nut off one more flat. Roller bearing do need proper pre-load.
Thanks for your very clear explanations along with the fine video. Watching these have instilled a desire in me to own a T. The hunt begins…..
I’ve missed seeing new T videos from you! Hope you are doing well!
I have returned!
That jack is AWESOME that you used to lift it up with
Nice job! I’m glad I’m not the only one to make silly mistakes sometimes when working on vehicles. Interesting to see some of the similarities between the Model T and my Super Major despite there being 37 years between them!
Same as Ford 4000 tractor and probably many others. Instead of axle stands I used to prefer several blocks of wood such as 9x3s stacked upon top of each other, less wobble.
Yes I often use wood as well. Never concrete blocks as some people like to use though as they can fail!
We always put a huge wad of grease in the palm of the hand and grab the bearing and work the grease in by rubbing the bearing against the palm of the hand in the grease. Messy but extremely effective.
Kind of fun doing it that way.
that is the way to do it, yes. ruclips.net/video/BhL1uAp_WCw/видео.html
nice job
Great job! Thanks for sharing.
Very nice, but may I suggest using a new cotter pin each time…
Timken invented roller bearings for locomotive use in the 1920’s
What I seem to remember doing with the roller bearings on my 1968 vw beetle was tigheten the castellated nut (or the clamp nut, I forget which) to a specific torque setting, while spinning the wheel, then backing off on the nut either a measured number of degrees of rotation, or backing off slowly while measuring the end-play with a dial gauge. I think I backed off on the nut just until I could feel a tiny amount of play when I pushed-pulled the wheel in-out on the tapered stub axle. About .02 or .03 mm (.001 inch) of end play, if I recall correctly. Once I was happy with the end-play, I'd tighten the clamping screw in the clamp nut, or loosen the castellated nut just enough to get a cotter pin through the hole in stub axle, somewhere on the castellated nut.
Nice
Amazing! New videos of your beauty please
Coming right up 😁
Brilliant
Another grand video Mitch! You do a great job of showing how to work on a T, far better than any others I have seen. One related question. My 1927 does not have screw on hubcaps! There are little metal tabs you bend! It seems terribly inefficient. You have to pull at the hubcap until the tabs inside the hub bends enough you can pull the hubcap off. To put on, straighten the tabs just enough to force the tabs into the hub. The hubcaps don’t fit tight. They flop around but don’t come off. Or am I doing this wrong? I can’t find any instructions or photos about this in literature, Google, or Utube.
Thats a very interesting one! I'd post the question to the MTFCA forum, or join my Facebook group - never heard that one before! :)
G.M products still use ball bearings up to the 50s
You didn't pack that bearing nearly well enough. Pack it until the grease starts to flow out the other side or end of it!
I did but the camera wasn’t rolling when I did it :( I do however make mention of it in the video :) thanks for the comment :)
I like your video very helpful; I keep coming up with the Temkin ones that thread on, and I want the ones you use with the collar. What are brands and part numbers for them front wheel bearings inner and outer with the races and seals?
The inner bearing is locked with a shrink ring, the easiest thing is to cut it with an angle grinder.
A shrink ring is a little narrower than the shaft, it is heated on 120celsius in a oven then it is put on and it shrinks and lock the bearing.
If it is possible(small el motors) then freeze the shaft/motor too never hammer it on.
Hello Mitch.I hope there's nothing wrong with the Model T.
The Model T is ok now :)
I always use new cotter pins they cost peanuts and the old ones can fail!
Hi Mitch I dont think that you are an idiot, just a learning curve and anybody could make same mistake. Hmm! in the UK we call the things that lock castle nuts "split pins", 😜maybe different across the globe, 😜Great job I should check mine along with kingpins and tie rod play. Thank you for video 👍
I think they are called split pins here too, but since a vast portion of my viewers are located in the USA, I tend to use American terminology a lot 😊
Not sure,but here in western Canada I have only heard people use the “cotter pin” term. Been using “cotter pins”for over 60 years so maybe it’s an old term, like me. :)
Luv ur videos but NEVER reuse a cotter pin
Hey! How do i get it in neutral and out of gear? Cant do it without brake with the hand brake. My family have a 23 model T 😁
Good Job, I like the way you packed them full, grease is cheap, parts not so much...Peace
Ive never heard split pins being referred to as cotter pins until now but I see they are, cotter pins were always like the ones that go through push bike pedals.
Take glob of grease in the palm of your hand and knead it into the bearings tell it comes threw the other side
good afternoon I congratulate you for the work of the spokes you could give me a sketch with the measurements of the finished beam for me to try to make them my tire is 30 x 3 1/2 thank you very much
Is there an accurate torque spec? GM uses 12ft-lb max whilest rotating wheel to seat then finger-tight plus some to make next cotter hole line up on tapered roller front ends.
Mr Wolf : it needs to be tight enough so the wheel can still spin freely, but not too tight so as to squash the bearings and cause the wheel to not spin freely. Also not too loose else the wheel will wobble and damage the bearings
Could you tell me the number of the inner and outer bearing to be able to replace my car
Hi Mitch. Off topic, but are you impacted by the awful wild fires in NSW that we read about? (Paul-United States.)
Is that rim balanced? at high speed 100km/h you will notice by the steering wheel.
This car will not do 100km/h
My outer Tikin Wheel Bearings are threaded and screw on to the spindles.
Small question to anyone, what's a good price range for one of these?? It'll be a LONG time before I can get my hands on my own Tin Lizzie, but I'd like to know what's fair and is not fair. I'm currently looking at one for $10,999 for a 1922 T with back seats and a top, and having 100 miles on it. Seems to be fine but, as I said I really don't know how to determine good prices for these. I've heard people say you can get one of these running for less than $2,000 because of how easy it is to find parts and a Model T in poor condition and work it up, but I have no idea how true this is.
What type of grease?
Any modern wheel bearing grease is better than any grease used during the Model T Ford era.
I use Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease (red colored) but that will be considered overkill by many Model T enthusiasts.
Here's your video on Hemmings Daily, Mich: www.hemmings.com/blog/2013/03/01/tech-101-how-to-start-and-drive-a-ford-model-t/
Thanks for that :)
Next time heat up the old races with a torch and use a heavy drift they'll pop right off
Brass Era T On The Road: ruclips.net/video/8OjQlnE6zBg/видео.html
I made it with Stodoys plans!
.............PIPE WRENCH!!!! WTF