I'm super impressed by your electrical knowledge and how you demonstrate it on all of your projects. Like you I am big into Christmas and basically hired someone to do this work because I don't know how. You make it look easy as you're flying along here! Side note: In your video of building the cordless phone shelf you in frustration say a very important near term project is to tear every wire out of the basement and rewire it. I don't know if you were just angry that day or if that is the plan. Would really be a sight to watch on video as you tackle that. Keep up the great work!
You probably already know this but the holes on the jaws of the wire stripper directly under the stripper blades are for bending the wire to make the eyelet for tightening the wire under a screw. You insert the wire in to the hole and bend the wire around the edge. Someone showed that to me a while back. I really enjoy watching you work. The amount of work that you do around your house and other projects are just amazing!
I don't really know about 240v split fases, but I do know the 3x220v or 3x380v+Neutral (it's pretty much the same but with more tickling) and I think you misscalculate the return (white) for both fases. Should be the the doubble gauge of the the red/black wire
Your assumption would be correct if both non-neutral poles were fed by the same leg (red or black). But in this case, the neutral (white) only carries the difference in current between the red and black legs. Many years ago, I made this mistake myself!
Unfortunately, that switch has a confusing design: normally, on a double-pole switch, one would expect the line and load connections for each hot (black or red) to be on the same side of the switch: and you wired it that way! With all the effort you put in, yours must be the best Christmas display in the neighborhood! (Where I live, it seems that people put more work into their Halloween decorations.)
You are correct--the design of that switch is non-standard. I wired it in the standard configuration. However, there is no excuse for not checking before making the connections. This is what I get for assuming, something that should never be done.
@@JordanU I wonder how many people had the same problem with that switch. In my opinion, it is not the safest design: in the usual type of switch, if something breaks loose inside, gravity tends to open both poles of the switch, like a relay or contactor "dropping out" when the coil is de-energized. With this type, the upper set of contacts would open due to gravity, but the lower ones would close.
I'm super impressed by your electrical knowledge and how you demonstrate it on all of your projects. Like you I am big into Christmas and basically hired someone to do this work because I don't know how. You make it look easy as you're flying along here!
Side note: In your video of building the cordless phone shelf you in frustration say a very important near term project is to tear every wire out of the basement and rewire it. I don't know if you were just angry that day or if that is the plan. Would really be a sight to watch on video as you tackle that.
Keep up the great work!
You probably already know this but the holes on the jaws of the wire stripper directly under the stripper blades are for bending the wire to make the eyelet for tightening the wire under a screw. You insert the wire in to the hole and bend the wire around the edge. Someone showed that to me a while back. I really enjoy watching you work. The amount of work that you do around your house and other projects are just amazing!
its no worries bro a new switch and hooking it up right will fix the problem then everything should be all good i enjoyed the video
True I'll get it going in time for Christmas.
I don't really know about 240v split fases, but I do know the 3x220v or 3x380v+Neutral (it's pretty much the same but with more tickling) and I think you misscalculate the return (white) for both fases. Should be the the doubble gauge of the the red/black wire
I think you need to collect some more information on how to calculate the maximum theoretical load on neutral in a case like this.
Your assumption would be correct if both non-neutral poles were fed by the same leg (red or black). But in this case, the neutral (white) only carries the difference in current between the red and black legs. Many years ago, I made this mistake myself!
Unfortunately, that switch has a confusing design: normally, on a double-pole switch, one would expect the line and load connections for each hot (black or red) to be on the same side of the switch: and you wired it that way!
With all the effort you put in, yours must be the best Christmas display in the neighborhood!
(Where I live, it seems that people put more work into their Halloween decorations.)
You are correct--the design of that switch is non-standard. I wired it in the standard configuration. However, there is no excuse for not checking before making the connections. This is what I get for assuming, something that should never be done.
@@JordanU I wonder how many people had the same problem with that switch.
In my opinion, it is not the safest design: in the usual type of switch, if something breaks loose inside, gravity tends to open both poles of the switch, like a relay or contactor "dropping out" when the coil is de-energized. With this type, the upper set of contacts would open due to gravity, but the lower ones would close.
At 0:09, 7:02, 20:55, 34:12, 1:34:16 excuse you