About how much did you spend and how long did it take for the build? I was thinking about picking my Windsor out and building it. Not sure where to start.
This build in total was about a $1,000 but we also replaced parts on the truck like injectors and those are expensive. This took me about 3 months but I was also having to wait for parts and other things.
Little cam bearing advice. Knock out all the bearings first, then do the rear bearing first and move your way forward. When you get to the front bearing, spin the block around and align from the rear, do this will help keep the bearing squared up.
Tip for block cleaning: Use the wirewheel with the sprial wires coming from the center to clean cast iron blocks, it works even faster than the regular wirewheel, great video brother.
Not exactly a rebuild but your on the right track. I hope this is the first of many engines you build. I built my first engine at 13. Was working in a full rebuild shop by 16. Owned my own hi-perf shop by 22. Glad to see young guys still interested in tearing apart v-8s. Brings back memories of the early days.....am I’m talking in the 80’s. We had no internet, RUclips or any help like that. Just Chilton manuals and hi perf speed books that we would buy. I still have em. Kinda funny looking them over nowadays. Anyways, good luck. Stick with it !!!!
@@DeejayGibbo Yeah. I agree. If the parts were all in spec and the engine was cleaned up, heads cleaned and valves lapped, then this is a rebuild. Assuming you don’t consider a rebuild because no machining involved? Makes no sense to machine parts still in spec!
Put the cam in before the crank so you can support it so you don't gouge the cam brgs with each cam lobe and when you clean the deck. Surfaces use a hand straight board sander also used for body work their about 14" long w/220 grit does a nice job.before assy. Always wash w/hot soapy water air dry ,then oil wipe asap.detergent washes away the grit solvent won't (can never be too clean on a rebuild)when you use a dingle ball hone to deglaze,slow the drill down to achieve a 45 cross hatch as you finish your last pull on the way out.nice job young man have fun liked your video 😊
I love the simplicity of this video, I'm sure a lot of people would disagree about not taking it to a machine shop but if it ain't broke don't fix it! Great job. Thinking of getting an 85' bronco with a 351 and would definitely wanna do a rebuild like this! Awesome video man keep it up
Great job. You did a fantastic job cleaning all your parts. Super time-consuming. But by having everything so nice and clean. When you start that engine up you don’t destroy it. It’s one of the most important parts of a rebuild and certainly the Least fun!
Glad to see a someone your age using their hands and making something cool out of it. The things we learn over time and a couple key points to solidify your knowledge are: Paint block before assembly Put front cam bearing in from back to align straight Put cam in first with lube from mfr,and lube whole thing before install Make sure those new pistons weigh within a couple grams of old ones, or rebalance Take rocker arms off and readjust lifters with new cam Hope all went well!
Thank you so much for the tips I am curious about the lifter adjustment because the lifter are hydraulic. So I don't think you can adjust them. Yes the truck is running well
@@americanrebuilds2815 the rocker arms you have are adjustable. Simply loosen the rocker nut a couple turns or until pushrod spins free. To adjust intake valve do as follows: When the exhaust valve just starts to open, then you can adjust the intake rocker next to it(pairs). Tighten rocker nut slowly while spinning pushrod between your fingers, once feel slight drag in pushrod,then tighten nut an additional 1/2 turn. For the exhaust valve, the intake (same cylinder as one your are adjusting) must go thru full lift and almost all the way back down, then you may adjust exhaust in same manner as described above.
Little tip if all you are doing is putting a cross hatch in the cylinders then a ball hone is ok but you you are trying to make sure the cylinders are straight you need a stone hone
Regardless of whether it's a grenade or not is yet to be seen, but you are learning and having a blast I can tell. Let me tell you that's what it's really about, i have built expensive machine shop builds and I have built what I call "grenade motors" with the least $$$ possible those how long they last and everything in-between. Irregardless they where all fun, i have 3 Cleveland blocks(one 4 bolt xxx block) and 3 sets of heads. I plan to build the 4 bolt one with all high end internals and stainless valves/guides in the closed chamber solid lifter heads. Then I'm gonna build a grenade motor with the 2bolt block using 10.5 to 1 pistons & aggressive cam and the 2v heads. At the moment I'm running a combination of the two with a 4bolt main block with stock crank 9.5 to 1 and 2v open chambers with the stainless valve/guide upgrade and a little more than mild r.v. type upgrade cam with headers and 500cfm holley I got 340hp. But now I want to start in on another one and you have motivated my ol' keister to get this stuff out and get going on it.
Excellent! with proper skills, tools and a good place to work on the engine , it can be nicely done! I have the skills but I lack the other two requirements :)Thank you for posting!
This is an amazing video. I could watch this all day. Great job kid. I’m trying to figure out what to do to get my 351 w ready. Top end rebuild. So much to learn.
One important piece of advice that should be stressed to would be home engine builders. When honing piston cylinders, you need to know theres two types of honing tools. The one you used is ok if its just a crosshatch pattern thats needed. But if theres any lip at all on the top most portion, you need to use a three stone piston honing tool instead.
You shouldn't use a hammer to install your lifters.If they don't drop in you probably have carbon in the lifter bores.This will cause premature cam lobe wear. The lifters should actually spin in the holes. The machine shop would have hot dipped the block for cheap it's well worth it. If you don't start with a clean block and heads you will end up with junk in the bottom and a whole lot of problems. Use acetone with a white rag until it comes out clean. I did this after the machine shop and still had lots of fine dirt in the block.Must have taken 2 hours to clean up.
a brake cylinder hone can usually clean up a lifter bore. Most machine shops don't dip a block anymore, they bake the grime into ash. which isn't the worst thing--i never paint the inside of the block, but for those who do, now they won't have to worry about "dip" contaminating their paint surface and causing strips to fall off and clog the oil filter. you're right about cleaning the block when you get it back from the shop--if i have to clearance anything and don't want debris to get into a passage, i fill it with shaving cream and wash it out afterward.
Usually on a flat tap it i would put moly grease on the cam and lifters it helps keep the cam from going flat when first started but I didn't see you do that
Hey bro your headed in the right direction I'm building a 351w right now too!! Keep it up bro lots more juicy things learn engines. Wait till you get into cam lobe separation and angle and valve lash
Hello! Nice to see the young men getting in there and getting dirty and gaining knowledge! My hat if off to you young sir. Good job!! I am currently searching for a 351W roller block out of a truck or E van in the Detroit area. Hit me up in the comments. Thanks! Cheers from Motown/Dearborn.
New engine, no machine shop??? Really?? Brother, U Are The Machine Shop! Ya had every tool and everything else you needed to build a perfect Windsor. Man even had a Helper!
It does my heart good to see a young kid doing this because it is becoming a lost skill in society. In the near future, the only new cars will be EV. There will be a huge demand for rebuilt gasoline engines and there are fewer and fewer people who know how to do it.
No machine shop?? and you're in what? the kitchen? lol...great for you...I had the short block of my 351 done at a machine shop...if i had the time and patience, this is the route i would've taken. Nice job...
Nice job but a little help get a scrap of hose for the rod bolts when you slide them in helps not scratch the walls or crank. Found that out the hard way.
For the record, the circular plugs we all see on the side of engines are not "freeze" plugs. they are core plugs, designed to help those casting the block get out all the casting sand pressed together to form a coolant passage shape. Ford's Boss 302 had them threaded just to give the block more strength, and its common to "swedge" them on racing engines so they won't pop out. They aren't for expansion--coolant doesn't have a brain to look for an exit sign out of a block. yes, sometimes they are in the right place, at the right time, and Henry Ford certainly took credit every time a farmer couldn't afford coolant in the Great Depression and said, "gee, the water dun froze and pushed out this hyar plug--that H'nry Fr'd's a damn gen--ee--us!" here are more steps if you don't have a great machine shop nearby (or the wait-list is too long). toss some old spare tires in the bed of a pickup truck, put the greasy engine in, and go to the car wash where you can hose it yourself. spray the engine with degreaser (oven cleaner tends to work on animal grease) and hose, using the tires to cushion rolling it around to get every spot. when you get home, remove the part of your engine stand that bolts to the back of the block, and bolt that to the bellhousing of the engine. now hoist it out of the back of the bed--easier to get this assembly hooked up to an engine stand than try to hang the engine in the air while lining up all the bolts on the engine stand. pull the valve covers and chuck an old distributor shaft in and turn the oil pump until it dribbles out of the rocker arms. if you see leaks now or nothing reaches the top end of the engine...you know you got a problem to fix as you build. if there was no oil getting to the rocker arms, you may decide now whether to work on another engine if time is of the essence (and that's why you're skipping the machine shop) dump the oil, running a magnet through it to look for bearing material. pull the theromstat, put the housing back on, cut a bike tube hose and run a loop for both ends of the water pump and a heater hose that loops to close off the heater core. fill the block with water, and use the schrader valve on the bike hose to pressurize. if water pours out the open drain plug on the oil pan, you may have a cracked block--if it pours out the open spark plug holes, a blown head gasket. also, loosen the rocker arms so all the valves are closed, then get each piston up to TDC and use a leakdown setup to pump air into each piston to get pressure in there--if you hear hissing out the PCV, you've got another problem. these tests aren't perfect, but if they exposed a bad engine, you may be able to get another plan going. after you pull the cylinder heads, get the outside cylinders to TDC and measure your height from piston top to deck--the difference from cylinder to cylinder will let you know how much the deck needs to sanded down. the video mentions cleaning off surfaces like the deck--always use a long board to make sure you are getting things flat (even a guide coat of paint will let you know if you have high and low spots as you sand). the last test would be to check the crank thrust before pulling it out of the engine. (i should point out, when you take a cylinder head off the block, turn the block so the head is parallel to the ground--less likely to drop it on your foot if the deck surface isn't at a 45 degree angle. If the head is being stubborn, get a piston up to TDC, and blow air into the cylinder to pressurize it--this can often be enough to pop it and you won't risk damaging an aluminum head). i wouldn't hone a cylinder without fluid. lifter bores can get a touch from a brake cylinder hone tool. estate sales are great places to pick up tools you'll need one day--you can see how other things in the garage/house were maintained, they often are older tools that were made better than "Harbor Fright" for the same price. when you install a cam, do it first before the crank. its easer to stand the block up on its bellhousing on the floor and let gravity work for you. plus you can reach into the crankcase without the crankshaft being in the way to guide the cam through its bearings.
Maybe you did this. But, for lapping your valves. You can get a small suction cup attachment for your drill. Place it on the face of the valve, and spin them in that way. Using minimal pressure its much quicker more accurate and efficient then doing it by hand. (I typically then check the seats w a jewelers loop for any remaining minor issues I'd want to address on the mating surface). Its normal/acceptable to have a very minimal amount leak by even after they're properly lapped in. For the cost, I would typically consider some new valves. U can usually find someone on FB marketplace selling new ones they dont need etc. Also, just curious, didnt see you address gapping, and orienting your rings prior to piston install? As well as micrometer checks on your cam bearings, and main bearings (w caps installed and torqued) prior to any final install? You may have done all those things. But you could show them in your vid. Just for some expanded content. Anyway, great to see a young guy keeping the hobby alive. Keep it up! Thanks.
I definitely will think about the lapping tool I spent weeks on those valves I also did some things off camera yes we did orient the piston rings and clocked them. I appreciate the tips
@@americanrebuilds2815 - Not recommended to spin valves, just rotate back and forth to lap... 16 new one piece S.S. valves $80 at Competition Products ($70 before shutdown)... Stock valves often 2 pieces welded together and heads can break off above 5,000 RPMs... And, NO, valves shouldn't leak at all after lapping... leaking valves will burn through their metal! Use $1.00 Plastigauge to check bearing clearances... often times an incorrect size bearing shell will get into the box of new ones... Those stock cast rocker arms break in half above 5,000 RPMs, use these hyper Chevy ones: www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g6801 Mild performance cam/lifters: www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/200143/10002/-1 Would have used flat top pistons to get compression ratio up from actual 7's into 9:1 !!!
I think you may have overheated the con rods during the piston install. You’re only supposed to heat them until they just start turning blue, otherwise the metal weakens greatly. Otherwise, great job dude!
@Steve Paige - Backyard mechanics don't buy every special tool for a once in a lifetime job... I don't even heat mine, just push the pins in and out with a vise and oil on them... sometimes put the pin in the freezer first... have some suspension ball joints in the food freezer at the moment...
Ideally you want to keep them under 600f when heating, steel starts to glow at 900f and at 1100f your steel is now 50% weaker. Don’t heat the metal more than you need to, 575f is when the rods begin to turn blue so that is a good indication of proper temp. 600f is 315C the inside of your motor will never get even close to that hot. That is the reason why you don’t get them red hot. Sure it will work but now you got weak ass rods in your motor 🤷🏼♂️ Putting the wrist pin in the freezer is a great trick though!
maybe I missed it but I didn't see any lube on the crankshaft bearings, nor a little oil on the main bearing bolts.. did you soak the lifters in oil over night and prime them a little?.. Other than that, great job.
The video didn't show you gapping the piston Rings?? I think I would have used way more break in lube on the cam and lifters. Would like to see before and after Dyno pulls because without doing something with the heads I don't see much value in putting in a larger cam shaft. Just my opnion. Hope she gives you what you expect of it. Nice video.
I did gap the rings by there isn't much to film on that as for the lube we primed the oil pump once the engine was all assembled so the cam got plenty of lube.
well the larger cam will give them more power but yes, i woulda purchased better heads or port n polish, n forged internals, but maybe they were just bringing a dead engine back alive??
Did you end up cleaning up the crank at all or just doing bearings? I'm trying to polish up my crank as best as I can. But it's still going to have some good scratches in it.
Hey Joe. He did not machine anything! Machining refers to boring of the cylinders. Or resurfacing the block or heads. He did none of that. He just used hand tools and did it on the cheap.
I bought the engine kit off eBay and that has all the gaskets, piston heads etc and the rest of the engine such as a new water pump upgraded cam etc I brought off rock auto. If you have anymore questions please ask
@@americanrebuilds2815 Dont sweat it. Those stock rods can handle 450 plus horsepower, your fine no more hp than your making. The truth is alot of old ford engine parts like crank and rods etc..., are alot beefier than say sb chevy or whatever. Example, a stock 460 bb ford crank can handle 700 hp as is. Keep truckin!
If this is a truck engine with the football head rod bolts, the rods can handle 600hp easy with an ARP rod bolt upgrade. Will definitely handle 400hp with stock bolts.
I used I a high grit something like 400 but it was also wet so that also helps. Cam bearings are a little tricky you need the tool and and you have to clock them correctly that’s the main thing
Авто/Мото
About how much did you spend and how long did it take for the build? I was thinking about picking my Windsor out and building it. Not sure where to start.
This build in total was about a $1,000 but we also replaced parts on the truck like injectors and those are expensive. This took me about 3 months but I was also having to wait for parts and other things.
you are a master tech. Meanwhile my nephew is crying cause his girlfriend dumped him. He should be spending his time on things like this.
Needs to be molded from a young age.
Little cam bearing advice. Knock out all the bearings first, then do the rear bearing first and move your way forward. When you get to the front bearing, spin the block around and align from the rear, do this will help keep the bearing squared up.
It’s really nice to see somebody about my age tackling a job like this, I hope it treats you well
Glad to see some have interest in working on engines now a days kids are lazy and unmotivated 🤙🏽 keep it up
Tip for block cleaning: Use the wirewheel with the sprial wires coming from the center to clean cast iron blocks, it works even faster than the regular wirewheel, great video brother.
Make sure to use a softer thinner wire if possible. Some of those stainless wires cause actually dig into the block alittle
Not exactly a rebuild but your on the right track. I hope this is the first of many engines you build. I built my first engine at 13. Was working in a full rebuild shop by 16. Owned my own hi-perf shop by 22. Glad to see young guys still interested in tearing apart v-8s. Brings back memories of the early days.....am I’m talking in the 80’s. We had no internet, RUclips or any help like that. Just Chilton manuals and hi perf speed books that we would buy. I still have em. Kinda funny looking them over nowadays.
Anyways, good luck. Stick with it !!!!
How so not a rebuild?
This is a full rebuild George 👨🏻🔧
@@DeejayGibbo Yeah. I agree. If the parts were all in spec and the engine was cleaned up, heads cleaned and valves lapped, then this is a rebuild. Assuming you don’t consider a rebuild because no machining involved? Makes no sense to machine parts still in spec!
Put the cam in before the crank so you can support it so you don't gouge the cam brgs with each cam lobe and when you clean the deck. Surfaces use a hand straight board sander also used for body work their about 14" long w/220 grit does a nice job.before assy. Always wash w/hot soapy water air dry ,then oil wipe asap.detergent washes away the grit solvent won't (can never be too clean on a rebuild)when you use a dingle ball hone to deglaze,slow the drill down to achieve a 45 cross hatch as you finish your last pull on the way out.nice job young man have fun liked your video 😊
Nice. Good to see young men picking up the hobby. Maybe lower the music volume next time tho.
Will do on the quieter music I appreciate the feed back
@@americanrebuilds2815 Not even music. Just some annoying noises
I love the simplicity of this video, I'm sure a lot of people would disagree about not taking it to a machine shop but if it ain't broke don't fix it! Great job. Thinking of getting an 85' bronco with a 351 and would definitely wanna do a rebuild like this! Awesome video man keep it up
Great job. You did a fantastic job cleaning all your parts. Super time-consuming. But by having everything so nice and clean. When you start that engine up you don’t destroy it. It’s one of the most important parts of a rebuild and certainly the Least fun!
Couldn’t agree more
I’m opposite I like cleaning
Glad to see a someone your age using their hands and making something cool out of it. The things we learn over time and a couple key points to solidify your knowledge are:
Paint block before assembly
Put front cam bearing in from back to align straight
Put cam in first with lube from mfr,and lube whole thing before install
Make sure those new pistons weigh within a couple grams of old ones, or rebalance
Take rocker arms off and readjust lifters with new cam
Hope all went well!
Thank you so much for the tips I am curious about the lifter adjustment because the lifter are hydraulic. So I don't think you can adjust them. Yes the truck is running well
@@americanrebuilds2815 the rocker arms you have are adjustable. Simply loosen the rocker nut a couple turns or until pushrod spins free. To adjust intake valve do as follows:
When the exhaust valve just starts to open, then you can adjust the intake rocker next to it(pairs). Tighten rocker nut slowly while spinning pushrod between your fingers, once feel slight drag in pushrod,then tighten nut an additional 1/2 turn.
For the exhaust valve, the intake (same cylinder as one your are adjusting) must go thru full lift and almost all the way back down, then you may adjust exhaust in same manner as described above.
Why do you prefer to paint before assembly? Is it because it looks cleaner that way?
It's because I painted the oil pan and valve covers a different color and the intake manifold was aluminum so I left it metal
@@americanrebuilds2815 Thanks for the reply. My comment was meant for someone above who suggested painting before assembly.
Little tip if all you are doing is putting a cross hatch in the cylinders then a ball hone is ok but you you are trying to make sure the cylinders are straight you need a stone hone
Regardless of whether it's a grenade or not is yet to be seen, but you are learning and having a blast I can tell. Let me tell you that's what it's really about, i have built expensive machine shop builds and I have built what I call "grenade motors" with the least $$$
possible those how long they last and everything in-between. Irregardless they where all fun, i have 3
Cleveland blocks(one 4 bolt xxx block) and 3 sets of heads. I plan to build the 4 bolt one with all high
end internals and stainless valves/guides in the closed chamber solid lifter heads.
Then I'm gonna build a grenade motor with the 2bolt block using 10.5 to 1 pistons & aggressive cam and the 2v heads.
At the moment I'm running a combination of the two with a 4bolt main block with stock crank 9.5
to 1 and 2v open chambers with the stainless valve/guide upgrade and a little more than mild r.v. type upgrade cam with headers and 500cfm holley I got 340hp.
But now I want to start in on another one and you have motivated my ol' keister to get this stuff out and get going on it.
Very cool, keep wrenching, keep learning.
Cool, l'll do that on my windsor too. Thanks
Great video man. Reminds me of when I would build SBC’s with my dad when I was 15
Excellent! with proper skills, tools and a good place to work on the engine , it can be nicely done! I have the skills but I lack the other two requirements :)Thank you for posting!
This is an amazing video. I could watch this all day. Great job kid. I’m trying to figure out what to do to get my 351 w ready. Top end rebuild. So much to learn.
Its damn good to see that Ron Paul for President, hoodie! You sir, have my respect! 🍻
I'm rebuilding my 1986 351W right now 😊 I enjoyed this video
I'm gonna follow this process. Because I am doing a super budget build
One important piece of advice that should be stressed to would be home engine builders. When honing piston cylinders, you need to know theres two types of honing tools. The one you used is ok if its just a crosshatch pattern thats needed. But if theres any lip at all on the top most portion, you need to use a three stone piston honing tool instead.
Or start with a ridge remover...
TBH, if there is measurable taper, I'm sending it to a machine shop.
FYI, for every .001” of taper in bore diameter, there is .003” ring gap expansion (diameter x pi).
You shouldn't use a hammer to install your lifters.If they don't drop in you probably have carbon in the lifter bores.This will cause premature cam lobe wear.
The lifters should actually spin in the holes.
The machine shop would have hot dipped the block for cheap it's well worth it.
If you don't start with a clean block and heads you will end up with junk in the bottom and a whole lot of problems.
Use acetone with a white rag until it comes out clean. I did this after the machine shop and still had lots of fine dirt in the block.Must have taken 2 hours to clean up.
a brake cylinder hone can usually clean up a lifter bore. Most machine shops don't dip a block anymore, they bake the grime into ash. which isn't the worst thing--i never paint the inside of the block, but for those who do, now they won't have to worry about "dip" contaminating their paint surface and causing strips to fall off and clog the oil filter. you're right about cleaning the block when you get it back from the shop--if i have to clearance anything and don't want debris to get into a passage, i fill it with shaving cream and wash it out afterward.
Usually on a flat tap it i would put moly grease on the cam and lifters it helps keep the cam from going flat when first started but I didn't see you do that
Hey bro your headed in the right direction I'm building a 351w right now too!! Keep it up bro lots more juicy things learn engines. Wait till you get into cam lobe separation and angle and valve lash
Looks good young man.
Hello! Nice to see the young men getting in there and getting dirty and gaining knowledge! My hat if off to you young sir. Good job!! I am currently searching for a 351W roller block out of a truck or E van in the Detroit area. Hit me up in the comments. Thanks! Cheers from Motown/Dearborn.
Wow you did a really good job
This is the most erotic engine building sound track I have ever heard.
New engine, no machine shop??? Really??
Brother, U Are The Machine Shop!
Ya had every tool and everything else you needed to build a perfect Windsor. Man even had a Helper!
FYI - Inside the water jacket there should be a zinc anode to help control galvanic corrosion. I hope you replaced them.
It does my heart good to see a young kid doing this because it is becoming a lost skill in society. In the near future, the only new cars will be EV. There will be a huge demand for rebuilt gasoline engines and there are fewer and fewer people who know how to do it.
nice video man. thank you, greetings from turkey
Great vid man!!!!
whats up with all the negative vibe this is his project if you no more or have more money more power to you
Do not use RTV on expansion/freeze plugs. They go in dry. Good choice of engines for a build though. I love the Windsors.
Buying a used swap meet engine and everything is within inspect pretty good my friend
Turn the heads with combustion chamber level. Gas per chamber to check for seat leaks.
Nice job!
No machine shop?? and you're in what? the kitchen? lol...great for you...I had the short block of my 351 done at a machine shop...if i had the time and patience, this is the route i would've taken. Nice job...
You did a good job, but please use more lube next time! Escpecially on that cylinder hone!
Nice job but a little help get a scrap of hose for the rod bolts when you slide them in helps not scratch the walls or crank. Found that out the hard way.
For the record, the circular plugs we all see on the side of engines are not "freeze" plugs. they are core plugs, designed to help those casting the block get out all the casting sand pressed together to form a coolant passage shape. Ford's Boss 302 had them threaded just to give the block more strength, and its common to "swedge" them on racing engines so they won't pop out. They aren't for expansion--coolant doesn't have a brain to look for an exit sign out of a block. yes, sometimes they are in the right place, at the right time, and Henry Ford certainly took credit every time a farmer couldn't afford coolant in the Great Depression and said, "gee, the water dun froze and pushed out this hyar plug--that H'nry Fr'd's a damn gen--ee--us!"
here are more steps if you don't have a great machine shop nearby (or the wait-list is too long). toss some old spare tires in the bed of a pickup truck, put the greasy engine in, and go to the car wash where you can hose it yourself. spray the engine with degreaser (oven cleaner tends to work on animal grease) and hose, using the tires to cushion rolling it around to get every spot.
when you get home, remove the part of your engine stand that bolts to the back of the block, and bolt that to the bellhousing of the engine. now hoist it out of the back of the bed--easier to get this assembly hooked up to an engine stand than try to hang the engine in the air while lining up all the bolts on the engine stand. pull the valve covers and chuck an old distributor shaft in and turn the oil pump until it dribbles out of the rocker arms. if you see leaks now or nothing reaches the top end of the engine...you know you got a problem to fix as you build. if there was no oil getting to the rocker arms, you may decide now whether to work on another engine if time is of the essence (and that's why you're skipping the machine shop)
dump the oil, running a magnet through it to look for bearing material. pull the theromstat, put the housing back on, cut a bike tube hose and run a loop for both ends of the water pump and a heater hose that loops to close off the heater core. fill the block with water, and use the schrader valve on the bike hose to pressurize. if water pours out the open drain plug on the oil pan, you may have a cracked block--if it pours out the open spark plug holes, a blown head gasket. also, loosen the rocker arms so all the valves are closed, then get each piston up to TDC and use a leakdown setup to pump air into each piston to get pressure in there--if you hear hissing out the PCV, you've got another problem.
these tests aren't perfect, but if they exposed a bad engine, you may be able to get another plan going. after you pull the cylinder heads, get the outside cylinders to TDC and measure your height from piston top to deck--the difference from cylinder to cylinder will let you know how much the deck needs to sanded down. the video mentions cleaning off surfaces like the deck--always use a long board to make sure you are getting things flat (even a guide coat of paint will let you know if you have high and low spots as you sand). the last test would be to check the crank thrust before pulling it out of the engine.
(i should point out, when you take a cylinder head off the block, turn the block so the head is parallel to the ground--less likely to drop it on your foot if the deck surface isn't at a 45 degree angle. If the head is being stubborn, get a piston up to TDC, and blow air into the cylinder to pressurize it--this can often be enough to pop it and you won't risk damaging an aluminum head).
i wouldn't hone a cylinder without fluid. lifter bores can get a touch from a brake cylinder hone tool. estate sales are great places to pick up tools you'll need one day--you can see how other things in the garage/house were maintained, they often are older tools that were made better than "Harbor Fright" for the same price.
when you install a cam, do it first before the crank. its easer to stand the block up on its bellhousing on the floor and let gravity work for you. plus you can reach into the crankcase without the crankshaft being in the way to guide the cam through its bearings.
Awesome
Next time clean the lifter bores, a lifter isn't suppose to be hard to put in (like using a hammer, that alone tells you that bore is contaminated).
That looks a lot worse on video than it was but I made sure that lifter slides smooth
Maybe you did this. But, for lapping your valves. You can get a small suction cup attachment for your drill. Place it on the face of the valve, and spin them in that way. Using minimal pressure its much quicker more accurate and efficient then doing it by hand. (I typically then check the seats w a jewelers loop for any remaining minor issues I'd want to address on the mating surface). Its normal/acceptable to have a very minimal amount leak by even after they're properly lapped in. For the cost, I would typically consider some new valves. U can usually find someone on FB marketplace selling new ones they dont need etc. Also, just curious, didnt see you address gapping, and orienting your rings prior to piston install? As well as micrometer checks on your cam bearings, and main bearings (w caps installed and torqued) prior to any final install? You may have done all those things. But you could show them in your vid. Just for some expanded content. Anyway, great to see a young guy keeping the hobby alive. Keep it up! Thanks.
I definitely will think about the lapping tool I spent weeks on those valves I also did some things off camera yes we did orient the piston rings and clocked them. I appreciate the tips
@@americanrebuilds2815 - Not recommended to spin valves, just rotate back and forth to lap...
16 new one piece S.S. valves $80 at Competition Products ($70 before shutdown)...
Stock valves often 2 pieces welded together and heads can break off above 5,000 RPMs...
And, NO, valves shouldn't leak at all after lapping... leaking valves will burn through their metal!
Use $1.00 Plastigauge to check bearing clearances... often times an incorrect size bearing shell will get into the box of new ones...
Those stock cast rocker arms break in half above 5,000 RPMs, use these hyper Chevy ones:
www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g6801
Mild performance cam/lifters: www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/200143/10002/-1
Would have used flat top pistons to get compression ratio up from actual 7's into 9:1 !!!
Clocking your piston rings does absolutely nothing it’s a myth
@@codycampbell4797 - Get real! You don't want those 4 gaps lined up !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
@@BuzzLOLOL you don’t want them lined up but they don’t need to be in a specific location
Great video, some tips maybe be a little more specific on your tools and avoid the music 🖖🤙👍
I thought that was kinda cool putting that lifter in with a hammer,
Amazing video! It's great watching you do this rebuild. I would like to rebuild a 351 some day too. Are you a professional mechanic?
No I am 16
@@americanrebuilds2815 Awesome, keep up the good work and pls post more videos!
@@americanrebuilds2815 damn that’s awesome never would’ve guessed you were that young. Good job.
I think you may have overheated the con rods during the piston install. You’re only supposed to heat them until they just start turning blue, otherwise the metal weakens greatly. Otherwise, great job dude!
HP TV heats them red hot...
@Steve Paige - Backyard mechanics don't buy every special tool for a once in a lifetime job... I don't even heat mine, just push the pins in and out with a vise and oil on them... sometimes put the pin in the freezer first... have some suspension ball joints in the food freezer at the moment...
It's very hard to get them to blue it's a fine line between red and blue
@@americanrebuilds2815 - They don't even need to change color, just heat them to expand them a bit...
Ideally you want to keep them under 600f when heating, steel starts to glow at 900f and at 1100f your steel is now 50% weaker. Don’t heat the metal more than you need to, 575f is when the rods begin to turn blue so that is a good indication of proper temp. 600f is 315C the inside of your motor will never get even close to that hot. That is the reason why you don’t get them red hot. Sure it will work but now you got weak ass rods in your motor 🤷🏼♂️ Putting the wrist pin in the freezer is a great trick though!
You should make sure your lifters will spin freely in there bores, without any drag, if they do not spin you will wipe a lobe off the cam
Ya I spent time oiling them up and working them to make sure none of them stuck
Great job! But please, eye protection! Watching you next to those compressed valve springs without eye protection made me nervous.
After watching the tappet get beat in with a dead blow, did the engine eat itself?
No she runs great it’s hard to see on camera but it went in just a little sideways but it corrected itself and I worked it back and forth off camera
RTV is the wrong sealant for freeze plugs; pressure is the cooling system can cause the plugs to blow out. A hardening sealant is best.
maybe I missed it but I didn't see any lube on the crankshaft bearings, nor a little oil on the main bearing bolts.. did you soak the lifters in oil over night and prime them a little?..
Other than that, great job.
Yes lube on crankshaft bearings and main cap bolts I didn’t oil the lifters but I put lots on during the install
Always use breakin lube on assembly--especially on the cam lobes and bearings--plain oil isn't enough !!!
The video didn't show you gapping the piston Rings?? I think I would have used way more break in lube on the cam and lifters. Would like to see before and after Dyno pulls because without doing something with the heads I don't see much value in putting in a larger cam shaft. Just my opnion. Hope she gives you what you expect of it. Nice video.
I did gap the rings by there isn't much to film on that as for the lube we primed the oil pump once the engine was all assembled so the cam got plenty of lube.
well the larger cam will give them more power but yes, i woulda purchased better heads or port n polish, n forged internals, but maybe they were just bringing a dead engine back alive??
Test run video?
Did you end up cleaning up the crank at all or just doing bearings? I'm trying to polish up my crank as best as I can. But it's still going to have some good scratches in it.
I cleaned it with some neverdull metal cleaner but I didn’t do anything else I didn’t have it turned down or anything
You should never use a ball hone on a used block you will never get any imperfections out
When you rebuilt it why didn’t you upgrade it to roller rockers?
We wanted to but we were on a budget and we chose new injectors instead
What cam did you put in the engine
Nothing to special just a cam with little longer lines so it holds the valves open longer I think I got it off rock auto with the other parts
Mechanic: "No machine shop"
Mechanic: [is a machine shop]
I am not a mechanic
@@americanrebuilds2815 Fool me once....
Hey Joe. He did not machine anything! Machining refers to boring of the cylinders. Or resurfacing the block or heads. He did none of that. He just used hand tools and did it on the cheap.
What grit did you use for the ball hone and wet dry sandpaper?
solicone on freeze plugs and a hammer to put in lifters lmao
Battery drill for lapping valve's
The music was mega-loud and then the voice barely audible.
Is there a list of products that shows where you got everything?
I bought the engine kit off eBay and that has all the gaskets, piston heads etc and the rest of the engine such as a new water pump upgraded cam etc I brought off rock auto. If you have anymore questions please ask
Nobody ever tell you to hone the cylinders with lube
My thoughts!
They aren't "cylinders", they're "pistons"...
@@BuzzLOLOL Pistons go in the cylinders. You don't hone pistons, you hone cylinders.
@@foxfordcatguy2283 - Don't know why I wrote that, maybe the original comment was edited from something else...
how long did the engine last?
Still running strong it's only about a year old
nice work. you don't need to spend $1000 plus in machine work. Did you check the weight of the old pistons against the new? why did you change them?
I didn't check the weight. We put new pistons in because we wanted to refresh the engine
Were stock dish pistons reused ?
No, we got new stock piston heads.
@@americanrebuilds2815 They are just called "pistons."
Where's the cam lube?
The cam lube was just oil with extra zinc also we ran the oil pump before starting it to make sure the oil got everywhere
I’m not criticizing, but that method is good for a roller cam not so much for an hydraulic.
You probably didn’t harm it but it is a risk.
Good work, but your music is very distracting.
...and annoying.
Then mute it
A little buddy fyi you didn't have to take it to a machine shop because you are a machine shop lol
Parts list??
I did reply to your last comment
New piston rods should have been used... old bones cant carry new muscle...
Ok, didnt worry about that on this one because we didnt add too much more power.
Regardless of power addition.. it's now a weaker function and future problem causing more of a headache later on...
Ok, I didnt know that so I will keep that in mind for the future. thank you.
@@americanrebuilds2815 Dont sweat it. Those stock rods can handle 450 plus horsepower, your fine no more hp than your making. The truth is alot of old ford engine parts like crank and rods etc..., are alot beefier than say sb chevy or whatever. Example, a stock 460 bb ford crank can handle 700 hp as is. Keep truckin!
If this is a truck engine with the football head rod bolts, the rods can handle 600hp easy with an ARP rod bolt upgrade. Will definitely handle 400hp with stock bolts.
😆
I didnt realize pistons needed honing for a cross hatch pattern...
loose the elevator music
NO.
Not pistons ...cylinder walls ..very poor information
lose the stupid loud music
So you want no music or quieter music
@@americanrebuilds2815 No music, it's information, not a variety show.
jeroendeo and i see that your channel is doing much better for you to judge? chill out man and have a good day
Don’t listen to them, the music is fine
Dead silence would be worse
@@iqinsanity amen
That's badass love this video how hard was it to install the cam bearings? Also what grit sand paper did you use to clean the block
I used I a high grit something like 400 but it was also wet so that also helps. Cam bearings are a little tricky you need the tool and and you have to clock them correctly that’s the main thing
@@americanrebuilds2815 thank you man I appreciate the quick response and how's the truck running now any hiccups?
She had some but we weren’t really able to work them out since it was my brothers car and he moved away