Thanks for watching this video but I’m recommending that you watch @Reflected’s absolutely superior Mustang video here: ruclips.net/video/6s93EFjGIKQ/видео.html
One thing I've come across a number of times is the order in which you manage the throttle and prop appears to be important. When increasing, you want to increase RPM first and then the manifold pressure. When decreasing, you are supposed to do it in reverse, so you throttle back first to lower manifold pressure THEN reduce rpm. I think it is supposed to be better on the engine that way ensuring the manifold pressure is never too high for the current rpm setting. I am still pretty new to the p-51 myself though so there may be more (or less) to it. Thanks for the video!
Just for info, power shift down is always manifold before rpm. And shift up is rpm before manifold. Otherwise you overboost the engine and risk damaged
Hi, good video. Lots of people have trouble managing the engine (prop and manifold pressure). In the aircraft docs folder is the manual. On Page 32, Fig 15 is a chart telling you the optimum settings for different flying conditions. Note the rightmost column which tells you the maximum time you can run at any particular settings. So there's high settings for max performance during fights but you're very limited as to how long you can run at the high settings. Anyway, good luck.
Good video, you walked through the steps nicely. One thing I'd like to add though is to get the oil temperature up to at least 50 degrees before take off. You can see the oil pressure going off the charts during your take off.
@@AIRWARFAREGROUP recently the cooling system got overhauled, it became a lot more critical. Especially on cold starts. Try cranking the engine up to max when it's cold and you can hear it selfdestruct ;)
I wondered what that was! It correlated with the time I installed the echo one Niner sound mod, and I just thought it was that, but that makes total sense. Thanks! Question, has anybody done a video on that engine management to that detail yet?
Tip: above 14k’ you can close the ram Air lever to engage the supercharger. Gets you into supercharger country before 18k’ Edit: I’m running 45” 2700rpm when I’m doing this
@@AIRWARFAREGROUP after it engages, if you continue your climb with those power settings, gradually open the ram air, and it should be fully open with the supercharger still engaged at or above 16k’.
Great information about prop and throttle management didn't really know what I was doing with them this weekend, knew they had to be in the green but not why or their relation to each other. Cheers
I honestly seized the engine dozens of times in my first year but one thing that carried over from my pilot training was if temperature rises in a climb, lower the nose and throttle back a hair and it will cool down.
This is great stuff, Juice. Thanks! I was able to get her up and flying last night with no issues. Once I got comfortable I began some basic maneuvers, and gradually became braver. I pulled a loop and that's what killed her. I'd definitely love to fly with ya!
Thanks for the reminder. Yeah I’ve been trying to get familiar with it because it’s over there so far right I may make my own and put it on my knee board.
I would just also point out the max continuous settings for the P-51 are 2700RPM for the prop and 46psi on the manifold pressure. You can stay in that condition and have temps OK.
Trim is what I have the most trouble with in the P-51. Partly because the cheap throttle I have has very awkwardly-placed buttons. I just found some a 3D-printable design for the trim box, with all three trim knobs as well as the landing gear and flaps levers (but not the two carburetor levers). The plans are free to download if you have a printer, but the bearings and screws and wiring still require some money spent. The same maker, Authentikit, is also working on a throttle quadrant, and already has a P-40 throttle that makes an okay stand-in. Between the cost of the hardware and the time it takes to 3d-print such a huge thing, it'll be a couple weeks at least before I have it ready to try out.
About the radio navigation, the Grim Reapers did some videos sometime ago: Detrola BC1206 Beam Approach System Guide - ruclips.net/video/AmA_A94qbLk/видео.html and AN-ARA-8 Radio Beacon Navigation Tutorial - ruclips.net/video/5K4N-Oj1cLA/видео.html Not throughout as it could be, but give a good idea how the radios work.
Surprised no one here mentioned that you have to use up some of the fuel in the Fuselage Tank first or else the CG will be off before you fight. Both Bud Anderson and Chuck Yeager mentioned this several times in interviews they did.
On the right side of your aircraft there is a placard on the wall that shows what rpms and boost you should be using in certain circumstances :) secondly the green lines on the throttle and rpm gauges show maximum cruise speed
I'm not sold on that! The radar is a real workhorse in the F-18 that will keep your head in the cockpit more than on the sky. It's easy to see why the Tomcat is a two seater. There is a lotta work to do in the F18.
I have no idea if this is recommended, but I switch the main cooling to manual and fully open for takeoff and until I’m over 200mph on the initial climb. If I’m in a mission that has a ‘crash’ climb, where I’m at 160-180 (as with some missions) I leave it on manual, fully open unless the temps are looking low, in which case I switch to auto. I find the auto radiator opening a bit sluggish in keeping up with engine temps, so if I’m slow where the drag is less of an issue I might switch to manual for a bit. I haven’t had an engine seize since doing this.
Hi Question Sir. 1st Thank You Please keep doing what you're doing telling us what map and airfield you are on in your videos. Question I too had lots of issues with engine management and I do something you do not cover and now I think maybe it is wrong but you tell me please. I will Open the Oil and Water radiator covers full open as soon as I get in the air and trimmed up. I have them Mapped on my Virpil Panel 2 for the covers 2 for the switches so I can hold down both radiator switch buttons for 15 to 20 sec. to allow them both to open all the way. Is that wrong at low altitude? If I get jumped by fighters I will Burn up the engine real fast if they are not open full.
Lower altitude and higher engine RPM does create more heat. But dialing back the RPM and Manifold Pressure can help to keep it normal even when radiators are set to Automatic mode. Do some testing and see what happens.
I just bought the P-51D Mustange from the "The Blue Nosed Bastards" campaign, but at a certain point in the mission the engine stops and I end up crashing. I still haven't figured out what I'm doing wrong, but I think it has to do with the way I'm managing the engine.
Probably right. Pistons are fun because you have to have good cross checks of the engine systems to make it work. If you don’t have a good way of mapping the P lever, the default is page up and page down. Tap tap lightly to get it when you want it. RPM first then throttle to dial in the manifold pressure.
I'm in the middle of that campaign myself. It's great. If you've got the RPM settings and manifold settings OK and aren't redlining the temp the other two suspects are either a fuel management issue or not warming the engine up enough before take off. For fuel take off on left main, burn the fuselage tank, then combat tanks and then the main wing tanks. The gauge for the fuselage tank is behind to the left and is a pain to read. If you're a new pilot the fuel cut off can be a surprise and seem like your engine just died. If that's it you need to reset the fuel valve to one of the combat tanks if its the fuselage. Because of how magnetos work, your windmilling prop will restart the engine as soon as fuel flow is restored. The merlin needs to warm up. Personally, I watch the oil pressure gauge more than the temp gauge. When oil pressure falls pretty close to green it should be ready to take off. This is well after the engine gets as warm as it is likely to get just running on the strip. Frankly, I don't know that oil pressure will get fully into the green unless you manually close the radiators, but that isn't necessary.
Cool stuff. DCS Sport flies the Mustang in real life and he looks for oil pressure about 1,000 I think I saw him say on his startup video. Thanks for the great tips.
@@natekott When the engine stops, it happens to me in the second mission, when the enemy fighters appear. It just shuts down and I can't get it working again, just could be a fuel problem, because up until this point, I hadn't changed the fuel tank. I still don't understand how to see the amount of fuel left in the tanks.
@@AIRWARFAREGROUP Finally I managed to successfully finish mission number two of the campaign (I shot down two fighters and a bomber) and found out what I was doing wrong... There were two situations, the first was to control the engine badly and always run with the propeller at maximum and the second was not changing the fuel tank and the engine would stop. Thanks to this video and the tips given here, I was able to finish the mission successfully. I'm really enjoying these WWII planes. Thank you all for your help.
I'm just trying out the channel map out now in the trial. I'm not sure that I want to keep it. I don't see what makes it that much better than the Normandy map I have....not that I wouldn't like it. It's just that it's another 22 GB to upload with every Beta update and at the moment I'm on a limited bandwidth plan.
If you already own Normandy 1944, you will be fine to upgrade to Normandy 2 for $15 when it launches. What’s your system specs? Level of detail is affected by settings and when I fly formation with a buddy, my maximum settings capable rig shows things that my friends with lower end equipment can’t see.
@@AIRWARFAREGROUP Thanks for that tip. Yeah I will upgrade Normandy. I have probably lower end specs but for me they are good. I get about 75 fps when flying and about 60 on the carrier deck, on server in MP. Aorus 7 SA -17" (laptop) Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-9750H CPU @ 2.60GHz 2.59 GHz 144 Refresh Rate 32 GB - Memory Size 6 GB GTX 1660 Ti
Thanks for watching this video but I’m recommending that you watch @Reflected’s absolutely superior Mustang video here: ruclips.net/video/6s93EFjGIKQ/видео.html
One thing I've come across a number of times is the order in which you manage the throttle and prop appears to be important. When increasing, you want to increase RPM first and then the manifold pressure. When decreasing, you are supposed to do it in reverse, so you throttle back first to lower manifold pressure THEN reduce rpm. I think it is supposed to be better on the engine that way ensuring the manifold pressure is never too high for the current rpm setting. I am still pretty new to the p-51 myself though so there may be more (or less) to it. Thanks for the video!
Thank you for the advice and feedback. I’m learning thanks to you guys!!
Just for info, power shift down is always manifold before rpm. And shift up is rpm before manifold. Otherwise you overboost the engine and risk damaged
Thanks.
Hey that's me! Much appreciated my friend! You are the man 👊👊
You rock!
Hi, good video. Lots of people have trouble managing the engine (prop and manifold pressure). In the aircraft docs folder is the manual. On Page 32, Fig 15 is a chart telling you the optimum settings for different flying conditions. Note the rightmost column which tells you the maximum time you can run at any particular settings. So there's high settings for max performance during fights but you're very limited as to how long you can run at the high settings. Anyway, good luck.
Thanks. ;^)
Good video, you walked through the steps nicely. One thing I'd like to add though is to get the oil temperature up to at least 50 degrees before take off. You can see the oil pressure going off the charts during your take off.
Thanks for this information. I’m always curious if DCS is modeled in that regard and all engine factors. I’m going to implement this now! :)
@@AIRWARFAREGROUP recently the cooling system got overhauled, it became a lot more critical. Especially on cold starts. Try cranking the engine up to max when it's cold and you can hear it selfdestruct ;)
I wondered what that was! It correlated with the time I installed the echo one Niner sound mod, and I just thought it was that, but that makes total sense. Thanks! Question, has anybody done a video on that engine management to that detail yet?
Tip: above 14k’ you can close the ram Air lever to engage the supercharger. Gets you into supercharger country before 18k’
Edit: I’m running 45” 2700rpm when I’m doing this
Super cool. Thanks!
@@AIRWARFAREGROUP after it engages, if you continue your climb with those power settings, gradually open the ram air, and it should be fully open with the supercharger still engaged at or above 16k’.
That's awesome, I did not know that. Appreciate it.
Great information about prop and throttle management didn't really know what I was doing with them this weekend, knew they had to be in the green but not why or their relation to each other. Cheers
I honestly seized the engine dozens of times in my first year but one thing that carried over from my pilot training was if temperature rises in a climb, lower the nose and throttle back a hair and it will cool down.
This is great stuff, Juice. Thanks! I was able to get her up and flying last night with no issues. Once I got comfortable I began some basic maneuvers, and gradually became braver. I pulled a loop and that's what killed her. I'd definitely love to fly with ya!
LOL. Nice. What kind of controller and pedals do you have?
Warthog HOTAS and some flimsy Thrustmaster T-rudder pedals. Soon to be updated to thr TPR pedals
That will be primo...I use the Warthog throttle Hat on the front of the right throttle as Rudder Trim.
@@AIRWARFAREGROUP I did the same! Made sense with the left/right motion
Also as a quick reference. Look at the aircraft panel inside the cockpit, where your right elbow would be. You see a power setting performance plate.
Thanks for the reminder. Yeah I’ve been trying to get familiar with it because it’s over there so far right I may make my own and put it on my knee board.
I would just also point out the max continuous settings for the P-51 are 2700RPM for the prop and 46psi on the manifold pressure. You can stay in that condition and have temps OK.
You know me...conservative nelly.
Trim is what I have the most trouble with in the P-51. Partly because the cheap throttle I have has very awkwardly-placed buttons. I just found some a 3D-printable design for the trim box, with all three trim knobs as well as the landing gear and flaps levers (but not the two carburetor levers). The plans are free to download if you have a printer, but the bearings and screws and wiring still require some money spent. The same maker, Authentikit, is also working on a throttle quadrant, and already has a P-40 throttle that makes an okay stand-in.
Between the cost of the hardware and the time it takes to 3d-print such a huge thing, it'll be a couple weeks at least before I have it ready to try out.
Awesome...drop a link and I'll check it out and share...Thanks for being in our community. ~ Juice
I am 16.5 hours into printing the first component, the box for the electronics hub. 3D printing is slowwwwwwwwwww 😆
I've posted the link twice, I guess youtube is eating it. Google Authentikit and you should find it.
The original WW2 manual is a must have for the DCS model. It explains everything so well.
Sweet. I always recommend that new players start their before jumping to Chuck’s Guide which is a great quick reference or refresher tool.
Daft question but what is "the original ww2 manual"? A dcs manual?
Yeah teggy, able to link us to the manual?
@Midnight no, it's the manual that was issued to pilots of the P-51D. I think it was in 1945, don't know if it was before or after VE day.
About the radio navigation, the Grim Reapers did some videos sometime ago:
Detrola BC1206 Beam Approach System Guide - ruclips.net/video/AmA_A94qbLk/видео.html and AN-ARA-8 Radio Beacon Navigation Tutorial - ruclips.net/video/5K4N-Oj1cLA/видео.html Not throughout as it could be, but give a good idea how the radios work.
I’ll have to try and watch it.
Surprised no one here mentioned that you have to use up some of the fuel in the Fuselage Tank first or else the CG will be off before you fight. Both Bud Anderson and Chuck Yeager mentioned this several times in interviews they did.
Reflected too 👍 but if you're in the TF-51D, there's no fuselage tank to manage.
Right side of canopy all the engine settings u need
Nice video
Also I purchased ww2 pilots notes for her which of course go into greater detail
Good points!
On the right side of your aircraft there is a placard on the wall that shows what rpms and boost you should be using in certain circumstances :) secondly the green lines on the throttle and rpm gauges show maximum cruise speed
Sweet. My head track needs to find this.
Good info. Picked up some warbirds with the sale. A lot more to manage than the jets.
Good stuff! My military pilot buddies say stick-n-rudder, tail-wheel aircraft are Real flying in DCS!
And real crashing 😂
I'm not sold on that! The radar is a real workhorse in the F-18 that will keep your head in the cockpit more than on the sky. It's easy to see why the Tomcat is a two seater. There is a lotta work to do in the F18.
I have no idea if this is recommended, but I switch the main cooling to manual and fully open for takeoff and until I’m over 200mph on the initial climb. If I’m in a mission that has a ‘crash’ climb, where I’m at 160-180 (as with some missions) I leave it on manual, fully open unless the temps are looking low, in which case I switch to auto. I find the auto radiator opening a bit sluggish in keeping up with engine temps, so if I’m slow where the drag is less of an issue I might switch to manual for a bit. I haven’t had an engine seize since doing this.
This sounds like a great idea, especially with higher ambient temperatures and longer taxing time on the ground.
Hi Question Sir. 1st Thank You Please keep doing what you're doing telling us what map and airfield you are on in your videos. Question I too had lots of issues with engine management and I do something you do not cover and now I think maybe it is wrong but you tell me please. I will Open the Oil and Water radiator covers full open as soon as I get in the air and trimmed up. I have them Mapped on my Virpil Panel 2 for the covers 2 for the switches so I can hold down both radiator switch buttons for 15 to 20 sec. to allow them both to open all the way. Is that wrong at low altitude? If I get jumped by fighters I will Burn up the engine real fast if they are not open full.
Lower altitude and higher engine RPM does create more heat. But dialing back the RPM and Manifold Pressure can help to keep it normal even when radiators are set to Automatic mode. Do some testing and see what happens.
@@AIRWARFAREGROUP Lol thank you I agree but when I get in a dog fight I set up I will burn up the engine if I do not open them.
I just bought the P-51D Mustange from the "The Blue Nosed Bastards" campaign, but at a certain point in the mission the engine stops and I end up crashing. I still haven't figured out what I'm doing wrong, but I think it has to do with the way I'm managing the engine.
Probably right. Pistons are fun because you have to have good cross checks of the engine systems to make it work. If you don’t have a good way of mapping the P lever, the default is page up and page down. Tap tap lightly to get it when you want it. RPM first then throttle to dial in the manifold pressure.
I'm in the middle of that campaign myself. It's great. If you've got the RPM settings and manifold settings OK and aren't redlining the temp the other two suspects are either a fuel management issue or not warming the engine up enough before take off.
For fuel take off on left main, burn the fuselage tank, then combat tanks and then the main wing tanks. The gauge for the fuselage tank is behind to the left and is a pain to read. If you're a new pilot the fuel cut off can be a surprise and seem like your engine just died. If that's it you need to reset the fuel valve to one of the combat tanks if its the fuselage. Because of how magnetos work, your windmilling prop will restart the engine as soon as fuel flow is restored.
The merlin needs to warm up. Personally, I watch the oil pressure gauge more than the temp gauge. When oil pressure falls pretty close to green it should be ready to take off. This is well after the engine gets as warm as it is likely to get just running on the strip. Frankly, I don't know that oil pressure will get fully into the green unless you manually close the radiators, but that isn't necessary.
Cool stuff. DCS Sport flies the Mustang in real life and he looks for oil pressure about 1,000 I think I saw him say on his startup video. Thanks for the great tips.
@@natekott When the engine stops, it happens to me in the second mission, when the enemy fighters appear. It just shuts down and I can't get it working again, just could be a fuel problem, because up until this point, I hadn't changed the fuel tank. I still don't understand how to see the amount of fuel left in the tanks.
@@AIRWARFAREGROUP Finally I managed to successfully finish mission number two of the campaign (I shot down two fighters and a bomber) and found out what I was doing wrong... There were two situations, the first was to control the engine badly and always run with the propeller at maximum and the second was not changing the fuel tank and the engine would stop. Thanks to this video and the tips given here, I was able to finish the mission successfully. I'm really enjoying these WWII planes. Thank you all for your help.
FFT Tune rudder roll pitch yaw
👍
What simulator is this. Also the scenery looks a bit bare and jagged.
It’s MSFS 2030 Beta
No turbo on 51
Thanks, reported already but thanks for watchin! Was speaking of charging in a general sense...my bad. Thanks to all the viewers for their inputs! ~J
I'm just trying out the channel map out now in the trial. I'm not sure that I want to keep it. I don't see what makes it that much better than the Normandy map I have....not that I wouldn't like it. It's just that it's another 22 GB to upload with every Beta update and at the moment I'm on a limited bandwidth plan.
If you already own Normandy 1944, you will be fine to upgrade to Normandy 2 for $15 when it launches. What’s your system specs? Level of detail is affected by settings and when I fly formation with a buddy, my maximum settings capable rig shows things that my friends with lower end equipment can’t see.
@@AIRWARFAREGROUP Thanks for that tip. Yeah I will upgrade Normandy. I have probably lower end specs but for me they are good. I get about 75 fps when flying and about 60 on the carrier deck, on server in MP.
Aorus 7 SA -17" (laptop)
Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-9750H CPU @ 2.60GHz 2.59 GHz
144 Refresh Rate
32 GB - Memory Size 6 GB
GTX 1660 Ti
VR would affect your settings even further. Enjoy DCS.