Hiya, once the bolts are removed you can drop the yoke down the splined shaft, but there isn’t enough room to actually remove it. I did this and then degreased the shaft and yoke as best I could, I then coated the shaft which would be inside the yoke with the 660 and pushed the yoke back into place, then I forced as much 660 into the the mated surfaces as I could. Funnily enough I was out there earlier today and checked for wear, it is still good. I am quite impressed with this product. The hardest part of the job is cutting out the original bolts (shown on one of my videos) for which I recommend a reciprocating saw and a lot of care, but we got it done in my garage without any other damage. Good luck :)
Hi Matt, yes, once I had cut out the old engine mount bolts (see other video on the subject) I was able to move the yoke down the splined shaft sufficiently to gain access but not enough to remove it. I then used Locktite 660 and fed it into the worn yoke making sure I got as much in as I could. Locktite 660 is specifically designed for this type of application to repair worn shaft interfaces like this. Once reassembled the excessive movement was gone and it is still good today. I think it was worth doing, and by putting the engine mount bolts back in the other way around it will be much easier to do again should I need to :)
I hope it goes well for you Matt, a bit nerve wracking cutting the old bolts out, sort of a point of no return! But I made certain I could turn the old bolts before we took the saw to them. Other than that, it went pretty easily. The locktite really seems to do the job, I was a bit sceptical at first but it’s still good now, a couple of years later! Good luck with it :)
Hello Guy your site is so valuable to us. We are just about to attempt to do the lower engine mounts to renew. We have watched your video, which is just the job. I noticed on the port side pic of the engine a cable going around the bolt. Am I right in saying thats a grounding cable. ? Where does the other end go, thank you. All the best... Jack
Hi Jack, yes, the cable you refer to is a grounding cable to prevent corrosion. Basically any part insulated from the main frame earth of the engine needs to be electrically connected together which allows the sacrificial anode to do its job. One end of the cable goes on the mounting bolt, the other end to one of the small bolts that hold the alloy mounting cover plate in place. Thank you for your kind words, I’m just an amateur having a go and sharing in the hope it helps someone avoid the pitfalls I lumber into. All the best and good luck, Guy 🙂
Hi Guy. Terrific video. I love the improvisation. It is my kind of repair. Did you use the same length bolt going in from the stern side or one a little shorter? I own a 1972 Mercury 650 3 cyl and need to rebuild or replace the upper mounts. Do you have any video on accessing the upper mounts? Or simply tips of the proper procedure? Any other subscribers, please feel free to assist.
Hi Larry, yes I actually purchased the proper bolts from Mercury and simply fitted them in the other way around. Sorry I don't have any video regarding the upper mounts - I haven't tackled that job as yet! If you have watched all of the videos I shot doing this job (I think 4) you will have seen that to release the Stbd side bolt I needed to use a torch as is was seized in place. It was fairly straightforward overall and I remain pleased with the repair which is holding up well. I shall actually be putting some new lower engine mounts in, in a few days so will probably post another video showing the procedure end to end. All the best Guy
Hi, if you have excessive play in the lower yoke itself, where it mounts onto the splined shaft then, I would deal with that at the same time as fitting your new bushes (I used locktite 660). However, if the play you have is only due to the old bushes being worn then, your new bushes should sort that out for you.
You, and I, will not believe that I simply didn’t think to do that. I have obviously dropped the gearbox many times for the water pump, but that still leaves the top anti ventilation plate in the way of removing the yoke. I have never take the next section (the leg) off. I would need to look at how that is done. But certainly it would make the job easier. Have you dropped that section? Do you know the procedure?
Hi, DjowieD I am sorry but I am not sure what you mean by the clip,on the swivel pin? The lower support fits into the swivel on a splined shaft and is held in place by the engine mounting bolts. On my engine there is no retaining clip in this position?
@@guyanicholls Hi Guy, Thanks for your answer. My 97 90hp does have a retaining clip to hold the yoke to the swivel pin. But it can be a pain in the ass to get it back on. But as you say the mounting bolts hold it in place maybe i can leave the retaining clip out.
Hi DjowieD, You may be able to leave it out but I'm not really able to advise you on that as I am not familiar with your model of engine. I've checked mine this morning to make sure and there is definitely no clip :)
Hi Denis, I dropped the yoke and back filled with Locktite 660 which is specifically designed for the repair of worn shafts in this sort of application. It has worked very well. I added a link to my You Tube page which should enable you to see other videos.
Hi, I ended up using Locktite 660 which is designed for the purpose of repairing worn shafts such as this. I was sceptical but, it has worked well and has been good since I did it a couple of years ago.
@@guyanicholls Awesome, thank you! I have a merc 150 blackmax that needs a new swivel pin, but I'm going to just replace the mounts and do what you suggested. Do you have to degrease the shaft/yoke first or just inject it in there after reassembly?
Hi Tony you should find all the videos I made at the following link. There are something like 42 I think in total including the ones from this lower engine mount work. Click on Fletcher Arrowflash to see them all. Hope that helps 🙂ruclips.net/channel/UC30Bix-aTG7M9WO0CVKlAaA
Ly fell apart in my 90 merc and this seems doable to replace.thanks for the video.
I did what you said & I no longer have play in the yoke . Thank you very much for the great tip !
Glad it helped!
Hiya, once the bolts are removed you can drop the yoke down the splined shaft, but there isn’t enough room to actually remove it. I did this and then degreased the shaft and yoke as best I could, I then coated the shaft which would be inside the yoke with the 660 and pushed the yoke back into place, then I forced as much 660 into the the mated surfaces as I could. Funnily enough I was out there earlier today and checked for wear, it is still good. I am quite impressed with this product. The hardest part of the job is cutting out the original bolts (shown on one of my videos) for which I recommend a reciprocating saw and a lot of care, but we got it done in my garage without any other damage. Good luck :)
Hi Matt, yes, once I had cut out the old engine mount bolts (see other video on the subject) I was able to move the yoke down the splined shaft sufficiently to gain access but not enough to remove it. I then used Locktite 660 and fed it into the worn yoke making sure I got as much in as I could. Locktite 660 is specifically designed for this type of application to repair worn shaft interfaces like this. Once reassembled the excessive movement was gone and it is still good today. I think it was worth doing, and by putting the engine mount bolts back in the other way around it will be much easier to do again should I need to :)
Thank you for all the info sir! I have couple 6ml tubes of the Locktite 660, lower mounts and bolts on order.
I hope it goes well for you Matt, a bit nerve wracking cutting the old bolts out, sort of a point of no return! But I made certain I could turn the old bolts before we took the saw to them. Other than that, it went pretty easily. The locktite really seems to do the job, I was a bit sceptical at first but it’s still good now, a couple of years later! Good luck with it :)
Hello Guy your site is so valuable to us. We are just about to attempt to do the lower engine mounts to renew. We have watched your video, which is just the job. I noticed on the port side pic of the engine a cable going around the bolt. Am I right in saying thats a grounding cable. ? Where does the other end go, thank you. All the best... Jack
Hi Jack, yes, the cable you refer to is a grounding cable to prevent corrosion. Basically any part insulated from the main frame earth of the engine needs to be electrically connected together which allows the sacrificial anode to do its job. One end of the cable goes on the mounting bolt, the other end to one of the small bolts that hold the alloy mounting cover plate in place. Thank you for your kind words, I’m just an amateur having a go and sharing in the hope it helps someone avoid the pitfalls I lumber into. All the best and good luck, Guy 🙂
Hi Guy. Terrific video. I love the improvisation. It is my kind of repair. Did you use the same length bolt going in from the stern side or one a little shorter? I own a 1972 Mercury 650 3 cyl and need to rebuild or replace the upper mounts. Do you have any video on accessing the upper mounts? Or simply tips of the proper procedure? Any other subscribers, please feel free to assist.
Hi Larry, yes I actually purchased the proper bolts from Mercury and simply fitted them in the other way around. Sorry I don't have any video regarding the upper mounts - I haven't tackled that job as yet! If you have watched all of the videos I shot doing this job (I think 4) you will have seen that to release the Stbd side bolt I needed to use a torch as is was seized in place. It was fairly straightforward overall and I remain pleased with the repair which is holding up well. I shall actually be putting some new lower engine mounts in, in a few days so will probably post another video showing the procedure end to end. All the best Guy
I just ordered a new bushing
You think that I still need locktite to get rid of the play?
Hi, if you have excessive play in the lower yoke itself, where it mounts onto the splined shaft then, I would deal with that at the same time as fitting your new bushes (I used locktite 660). However, if the play you have is only due to the old bushes being worn then, your new bushes should sort that out for you.
why didnt you drop the leg to get it out the way then can drop the yoke all the way off ?
You, and I, will not believe that I simply didn’t think to do that. I have obviously dropped the gearbox many times for the water pump, but that still leaves the top anti ventilation plate in the way of removing the yoke. I have never take the next section (the leg) off. I would need to look at how that is done. But certainly it would make the job easier. Have you dropped that section? Do you know the procedure?
Ok following sir
Did you reinstall the retaining clip on the swivel pin? and how you did that?
Hi, DjowieD I am sorry but I am not sure what you mean by the clip,on the swivel pin? The lower support fits into the swivel on a splined shaft and is held in place by the engine mounting bolts. On my engine there is no retaining clip in this position?
@@guyanicholls Hi Guy, Thanks for your answer. My 97 90hp does have a retaining clip to hold the yoke to the swivel pin. But it can be a pain in the ass to get it back on. But as you say the mounting bolts hold it in place maybe i can leave the retaining clip out.
Hi DjowieD, You may be able to leave it out but I'm not really able to advise you on that as I am not familiar with your model of engine. I've checked mine this morning to make sure and there is definitely no clip :)
Where is part 2................help
Did he change the bushing or just stuff some locktite in there ?
Hi Denis, I dropped the yoke and back filled with Locktite 660 which is specifically designed for the repair of worn shafts in this sort of application. It has worked very well. I added a link to my You Tube page which should enable you to see other videos.
Which Belzona epoxy do you use for the yoke?
Hi, I ended up using Locktite 660 which is designed for the purpose of repairing worn shafts such as this. I was sceptical but, it has worked well and has been good since I did it a couple of years ago.
@@guyanicholls Awesome, thank you! I have a merc 150 blackmax that needs a new swivel pin, but I'm going to just replace the mounts and do what you suggested. Do you have to degrease the shaft/yoke first or just inject it in there after reassembly?
Hi, do you have parts list / name?
Try this link: data2.manualslib.com/pdf6/125/12433/1243283-mercury/75.pdf?c46e33044857c3dffe4298a1bf8e70dd
Links below to other videos showing the rest of the process
What links ?
@@denispoirier5442 ruclips.net/p/PLaeVo90XJbZJ-g4aZcOHxrR00ERv5NAFT
Hi Tony you should find all the videos I made at the following link. There are something like 42 I think in total including the ones from this lower engine mount work. Click on Fletcher Arrowflash to see them all. Hope that helps 🙂ruclips.net/channel/UC30Bix-aTG7M9WO0CVKlAaA
Cutting the bolts ruclips.net/video/mYcTtkGGw74/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/mYcTtkGGw74/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/mYcTtkGGw74/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/dC087k9hI18/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/dC087k9hI18/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/rpxCQbi3K3o/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/rpxCQbi3K3o/видео.html