Swimming in Bigger Surf

A quick story on one of my first situations with huge ocean conditions and some additional thoughts.
Let me know your thoughts below and if there's something you'd like to see in the future!
As always, thank you for supporting my work and see you out there!
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[@charlesschuster7963]

In my better days (a few years out of high school) I would drive my '64 Bug to Pipeline on weekend mornings. If there were less than 15 guys out, and not "too big" I'd kneeboard. If bigger, I'd bodysurf. Surf on my biggest days was starting to break at second reef, you call the size. There is no feeling more thrilling than easing under a large set, late in the afternoon and with the sun shining through the hurling lip, everything tingling from the vibration of all the bits of coral rolling on the bottom. Swim along the bottom, or just enough to get through, watch the glass axe fall on the reef. Less than 15 guys out tells you how long ago that was...
But as to the confidence to do this, I was alone with my Duck Feet (super extra large, a size no longer made) and I was simply sufficiently confident in my ability to withstand what was going on. There was no training, no conscious decisions to make... it was just what was happening on the day.
Being in excellent condition and having a clear head is of critical importance. I pulled in a ridiculously unprepared kid one increasingly large day, and pinwheeling through a six-wave set in the impact zone, trying to hold onto a panicked 15-y.o... was the worst beating I've ever taken. But I knew I'd wash in and only trouble was locking wrists with the kid screaming at me to "save myself" while he expected to die. Ended up on the sandbar in front of Ehukai in chest deep water with my younger brother, the kid, lifeguard Butch van Artsdalen, the helicopter overhead. Suddenly the set passed, we were in knee deep water and all scampered to shore. The kid's hysterical mother (older sister?) grabbed the kid and I went off to other things. Terry Ahue, Butch's partner on the lifeguard stand, only pointed out to sea where another idiot was waving for a save. Butch of course, simply swam out and held the next guy until the chopper came back from a rescue at Sunset and gave them a free ride to the beach. What a day.

[@Steven_Oliver_Resurfaced]

Life begins at the end of your comfort zone. you've shot some amazing photos while swimming in big surf. keep learning how to channel that fear!

[@Blarrel.]

Thanks Steven! One day at a time!

[@raymondperez2972]

I’m a brand new subscriber and this is my first video from you. I used to surf from the 70’s through the 90’s on O’ahu, on surfing the South Shore summers, then tuning up for the North Shore for the winter. Excercising, running, swimming, needing to have good lungs when being held underwater getting thrashed around like in a washing machine. I hear you. You gotta know your limitations and the North Shore on O’ahu Hawaii will teach you respect for the Ocean. Aloha ke akua!!!

[@Blarrel.]

Welcome and thanks for the wisdom!

[@domwstone]

haha, this is such a fresh feeling in my mind. well-said Blair!! thanks for sharing

[@Blarrel.]

Thank you!

[@ManambeLavaka]

Well said Blair. Great insight.

[@Blarrel.]

Thanks Matt!!

[@mikenelson3049]

Amazing Blair!! Twice as scary without a surfboard and holding camera equipment!! Keep up the good work!

[@Blarrel.]

Thanks!!

[@lucashogg1236]

I’ve been swimming out in 12ft+ surf and it was the first time I really got scared by the sea. The waves are just on another level at that point, with so much power and energy that you can get caught unaware so quickly. I remember getting sloppy and not diving deep enough on a wave, just to get picked up and thrashed. Still, was one of the greatest swims of my life.

[@Blarrel.]

Thanks for sharing your experience. Diving deep is so important. Countless times we’ll have a long period of time without larger surf and I’ll forget to do it.

[@markdrewelow274]

Nice words Blair. I think i have more time than anyone swimming next to you in big challenging surf over the past years. Many times caught inside sprinting for safety and i turn around and see you about to be completly mowed down by 10-15 ft of boiling frothy whitewater. Without fail i see your black hood pop up... instantly maneuvering for the shot. ....keep charging Blair and see you soon at the next smashing. ✌️✌️

[@Blarrel.]

Thanks Mark!! Stay safe out there. Thanks for sharing the water and keep inspiring.

[@williammatteo6989]

Been surfing my most of my life, and surfing is one of the most humbling sports you can tackle. And I have had some scary situations in the water. I can give a little advice respect the power.

[@emilsc5637]

amazing shots

[@Blarrel.]

Thanks a lot!

[@raseamcandrew7614]

So sick. Insane photos

[@Blarrel.]

Thanks so much Rasea!!

[@bloblablah7409]

1:25 is that a guy with a wavestorm turtle rolling through the lip?! Crazy

[@planetclay]

that was cool.

[@jeffg4686]

aerobic shape.

[@marvinacklin792]

Sounds like the north shore when it is 6-8

[@cy-villian]

Surfed for 45 years now and the phrase has always been, WHEN IN DOUBT, PADDLE OUT. Nowadays it's the opposite. What happened?