How to MIG WELD (Butt Welding THIN Sheet Metal) Gap or No Gap?
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- Опубликовано: 10 ноя 2023
- My Website for purchasing T-Shirts www.acdesignsgarage.com
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In this video I share with you two different ways of butt welding using the mig process. This has been a topic for a while on whether to use a gap or no gap on your panels to achieve full penetration. Hope this video Helps you in your welding journey. I will link below the products that I used in this video. Some of the products that are used are affiliate links, I make a small percentage off of qualified purchases at no additional cost to you. Thanks for watching!!!!! Other Great Welding Channels @JustVoss @PacificArcTigWelding @edgeweldingcups @weldingtipsandtricks @Welddotcom @ICWeld @Weldingtricks @arccaptain9773 @everlastgenerator
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Авто/Мото
Another high level tutorial that really shows your mastery of the art. Thanks for taking the time to show us amateurs how it’s done. In the many years I’ve claimed to know how to weld I have never used a blow gun to cool the work. I’m going to be better prepared the next time I pick up my MIG torch. Thanks again.
Thanks man for the kind words, it makes all the hours worth it when I can help someone!!!!
I’ve only been welding for a couple of years but no gap is much easier for me. I like the Fitzee “cut & butt” method where possible. A gap = burn out for me.
I agree that method is a great tool for certain jobs. Ive used it for 20+ years mainly on large pannels. Thanks for the comment and watching!!!
Good advice. I bought those clamps 5yrs ago and forgot I had them. I don’t think I’ll be using them.
Thank you for watching!!!
Last night I was “trying” to Tig a new strip of 18ga steel to some 80+year old 19ga steel on a radiator surround, what a nightmare. It sparked like it was flux core I was welding with! I’d burn through super fast before I could get a puddle even started & I was down to 32amps. In the end I went thru 12+ tungsten’s as they’d get contaminated with splatter quickly plus it looked like a really bad Mig repair in the end. I tried all sorts of changes while I Tig’d it up but it was a bloody nightmare!
Yeah Im with ya, I've had the same trouble. I found that metal that has been rusty ishard toweld even if you blast it clean. I guess the rust diggs deeper than the surface. Also burnt metal is a nightmare!!!
One way to put it is like this, "the gap is crap".
I agree totally !!!!!!
What about flanging the metal, overlap and then weld?
The only time that I will over lap is usually floor pans. When doing exterior pannels you cant hammer and dolly the warp out if you lap it and also it give the metal a place to rust. Now it is a strong joint.
In welding metal in older cars and it tends to blow through, is there a way to deal with this, or do you just need to cut material back until you get to better metal. New to this, need all the advice I can get. Thanks.
Awesome thanks for watching The way I do it is I find the end of the rust then I go two to 3 inches bigger so I make sure to get it all and that will probably solve your problem
Here is a playlist of all my welding and rust repair videos that may help
ruclips.net/p/PLly0wFZ3b0EUfw-y66mVLdVwVd8CsHqgZ&si=dP5Et60SYIGegHVX
Thank you sir, have been enjoying your channel for a while now. Keep up the great content. @@ACDesignsGarage
New to the channel awesome video I am glad I found this channel awesome content . hey question where can anyone pick up them clamps for the sheet metal do you have a site for that they can be purchase awesome videos thank you
Thank you for watching, are you talking about the clamps that hold two pieces together, if so harborfreight.com has them or search sheet metal clamps on amazon , they should have them!!!
Interesting info. Unfortunately I don’t have much 22 ga. on my 1964 car. It would be interesting to see what you get doing something similar with 18 ga. I’m fairly new at this but it seems to me that it takes a lot more heat to get good penetration on 18 ga. with no gap and my tests resulted in about the same warpage with or without a gap. And I try to keep my gap at approximately the width of the wire - using .023. Those holders, in my (beginners) opinion, leave way too much gap for the thin sheet metal used on cars. Hmmm, maybe the larger gap is the reason for more difference in warpage?
The older cars are a lil thicker, most were 19ga. But after years of rust sometimes your dealing with thinner than 22ga. Im going to be doing rust repair on a 1965 c10 front fender this week, ill try to fill it full of tips and tricks. My 20 years of experience from restoring old cars is no gap is better, but if the gap works for you use it, what ever makes things easier for you!!! Thanks for watching!!!!
Wounder if it would warp if i lap weld across a car top from door to door.just want to add a different back window.
It shouldn't warp as bad if you lap, the only down fall is when you lap metal you have a grater chance for rust getting trapped in between the pannels causing paint pop and rust forming!
After sanding it down how to you remove the “divots” left between the tack weld and original metal? I hope that make sense. You can see just a couple around 33:46. Thanks.
You can do a quick tac weld over the pin hole and grind it down . It will fill it most of the time, thanks for watching
Sorry for the late reply i usually just do a quick tac over the divot then grind it back down, i have to do this sometimes.
Thanks!
Thank you for all your support, its greatly appreciated 🙏
Grind that no gab tack flate and smooth then bent it at the seam... do that to the gaped sheet metal... you see you penatration is week no the no gap sheets as it crak..at the seam
Cheers for the advice. One question why do americans drag and the brits push when doing mig welding? Which is best? I actually prefer to drag it im learning i have done some in the past but never taught properly. Maybe us brits are just backwards 😂
Hahaha people over here are back and forth also on push or drag. Ive watched several videos from guys that know a ton more than me, and they say there's not really a difference. I think its personal preference. Weld.com on youtube and welding tips and tricks did a cut and etch on both and they had the same penetration. I lime to drag be ause I can see the puddle better. Try them both and see which feels more comfortable to you.also check out weld.com and welding tips and tricks on youtube for there comparison videos. Thanks you for watching!!!!!
@ACDesignsGarage thanks I think I'll have a play around and see what I think but dragging does seem a bit easier to me. Cheers mate I will check out the website 👍
The theory is you get more penetration with a drag angle while welding in the leading edge of the puddle, and you get less penetration with a push angle for welding thin metal.
Less chat and more action would be better!
I try to lay out all the details for the very new beginners so it will help them learn faster.
This video is booty
Hahahahaja