The Risks Of Keeping The World’s Oldest Leather Tannery Alive | Still Standing | Business Insider
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- Опубликовано: 29 июн 2022
- Tanners at the Chouara Tannery have been transforming animal hides into leather since the 11th century. The tanning process has gone unchanged since then, but it relies on heavy chemicals that threaten the health of workers. Some say they are not willing to take that risk. We traveled to the world’s oldest leather tannery in Fez, Morocco, to find out how this ancient craft is still standing.
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The Risks Of Keeping The World’s Oldest Leather Tannery Alive | Still Standing | Business Insider
I'm a leather craftsman, I'm sure his leathers are beautiful and it's amazing he puts so much love and work into them, but it's not worth the risk to your health. He said he hopes conditions are better for the next generation. They already are, dozens of tanneries in the world produce pure vegetable tanned leather just like him, even with more consistency and they're not risking anyone's health. I appreciate how much he loves this, but this is one aspect of the leather world that I'm glad technology was able to clean up. I hope to use one of his hides one day and visit his tannery, I love his dedication and wish him the best.
I've seen other videos of the leathermaking process, and there has to be at least something his tannery can take from other traditions or the more modern process to allow for a better way that doesn't ruin your body. Like that scraping process where he leans over again and again to push the blade. From what I've seen, another way of doing that is stringing up the hide on a frame and being able to hand-scrape it instead of doing it over a beam. Or adopting less harsh chemicals like you mentioned. I have no clue how feasible these things are, I don't work as a tanner or with leather, but in any field if things are going to be better for the next generation, the current generation needs to set up changes.
@@SyoaranBarker The chemical baths have been replaced with machine baths so no one has to bring their skin. The scraping process has also been changed to use more machinery to save one's back. Chahin tannery, as well as Wicket & Craig I believe have good videos on RUclips about the veg-tan process. Chrome tanning is different entirely and nothing like traditional leathers.
I hope so too, although this is his heritage (literally), his pride and his art, it's not worth wasting your health over it when there are things that can help
@@TheGreatChrisB I understand the usage of machines, but it's the oversaturation of machine produced leather and regulations/bans on certain chemicals that put an end to my family's history of leatherwork as it became cheaper to mass produce inferior leather goods and hike the price in the process.
Welcome to the sheriffian kingdom of Morocco ruled by the second oldest royal family in the world, may Allah bless you and your family with happiness and good health.
"Carrying a bag is like carrying 10 centuries of culture in your hand" Wow
Powerful
suckers like you two are exactly their kind of customer
Oh calm down
@@vaughangarrick no you calm up!
Would buy one of those instead of Made in China Louis Vuitton any day 👍
This is wild! I actually visited Fez in 2019 & toured this tannery. I bought my Mom a small handbag & myself an awesome wallet from Mr. Mohammad’s shop. The I still carry that same wallet to this day and to be honest it’s just now at that stage of “perfect broken in feeling” so idk if the cow urine, pigeon droppings, lime, and the other crazy stuff they use at the tannery actually makes a difference versus the vegetable tanning procedures but I know my wallet has stood the test of time so far. I run my family’s dairy farm so it’s not like it has an easy life and never gets dirty or anything. If you’re ever in Fez I highly recommend visiting the tannery because it truly is a site to behold & is almost like traveling back in time when you’re walking through the narrow walkways in the market square. Almost like in old Jerusalem if you’ve ever been there. Everyone is extremely kind to tourists and while you will run into scam artists just about everywhere in the world I have found that that’s less likely to happen in Muslim countries. Idk how many times I had to “debate” with a food vendor about letting me pay for my own food bc they will INSIST that there is NO CHARGE they will cover it. The same goes for chai vendors as well. If you ever do visit Fez & make it to the tannery Mr. Mohammad’s shop is right there & he is extremely nice, he will go above & beyond to make sure you get what you want and if he doesn’t have it made already then he will ask you how long you’re staying and he will finish it before you leave Fez regardless of wether it’s 1 day or longer. I got to choose what animal leather I wanted for my wallet as well as the color, style(I got a minimalist front pocket style) & you can have logos or letters stamped into it as well so I had my initials stamped on it & also had Mr. Mohammad put his name on it as well since he was such a kind person I wanted to remember my trip whenever I looked at my wallet. It’s just crazy I was scrolling through RUclips & happened to see this video on my recommended page!!!
That’s freaking awesome.
Fabulous!! Thanks for sharing your story and enthusiasm
Your story is so awesome, maybe they can put the product online to sell, so they can have the story along with the product
Awesome comment! 👏👏
What a wonderful experience I would love to go to Fez
You can see his pride for their craft. He is passionate about his work and continues to do so at the risk of his health. I just hope he/they would be able to find a way to continue doing it traditionally without the risks.
I agree
tf do you mean by he/they?
@@kamisama9715 him and the other workers
@@kamisama9715 not the brightest aren’t you .
The risks are inherent to the traditional way. Modern processes have mechanized the dangerous parts of the job so that humans have little to contact with the hazardous chemicals used.
Works in a deadly tannery for 30 years, looks better and healthier than any office worker with 5 years in the job. 😁
Exactly look at his arm muscles 😂 beautiful ❤️
Looks can be deceiving.
😂😂😂👌👌👍👍
@@Brandtyboy1 documentarists can be deceiving
Not really, his body is probably aching all over and his skin looks to be in very bad shape.
Now I want a full documentary on this guy's business, this episode was great
I was fortunate enough to visited this tannery in 2017. Fez is the artisans city of Morocco, I extended my stay in Fez and chefchaouen. The entire area smells like ammonia due to the natural decomposed pigeons dropping mixing with other ingredients in thoese small wells. Just show the taxi driver the address written in Arabic by my hostel host, no need to join a tour. Tourists observed the tannery process from the root top,while sniffing mint leaves to cover the smells. Tourists will be approached by salesman to take you to shops for commissions. I venture all over the alley far away from the tannery and found shops with artisans working on bags. It takes time to find designs I like and fits my specifications for the bags closure. The guys agreed to changed the buckel to a more secure types, it was done quickly. I bought 2 different bags with unique styles. I used 1 for special occasions, I want it to last for years to come.
Morocco is affordable by flying out Rome and Nice, it was less than $300 round trip. Tourists can spend with Euro or US$. Ten days is just enough time to discover Morocco. Designer Yves st Lauren final resting place is in his marrakech home with garden full of plants from around the world.
Same, and more of the craftsmen using his products.
I agree!
Why don't you come to Fez to watch it in reality ?
@@squallihoussainijaafar3818 I agree! Morocco looked fantastic in this video I saw some beautiful things that were like eye-candy, and I did not know such things existed there. If I ever decide to take a sea-trip to Morocco, it will be to visit Fez and to meet Adil. (And you, too, if you live there.)
I know how much people pride themselves with preserving old crafts and traditions, but I wish he could at least make his job a little safer. Even if you're dedicated to your work, getting health issues is something nobody wants to deal with. Traditional methods become obsolete at times because they posed a much larger risk than modern methods, if this job is so hazardous it would be nice if he could try to improvise certain things to ensure that he's safe
It all comes down to money. Can these workers pay for these protective gear? In this video, only the main worker wears it. It must cost him a lot to get one, and it won't last for long.
@@Theoryofcatsndogs yea true, sucks to hear that
@peter pennekamp come on, this is 2022, not 1920. And it is a tourist town. Of course, it has electricity.
I have lived in Morocco for almost a year and there was not a single day I didn’t enjoy being there. Beautiful country, amazing people and very rich in culture and history. I am dying to make another trip down there. Je t’aime Maroc ❤️
moroccos definitely in my top 3 places i want to visit. looks immensely beautiful in photos
On t'aime aussi 😀 You're welcome anytime
Did you enjoy the smell of tannery? 🤣🤣🤣
amazing country that beheaded a poor French girl
I've been 4 times now. Would love to retire there!
We should support him by buying more number of leathery items, so that we can improve his economic conditions...lots of respect from 🇮🇳 India 🙏
Be vegetarian buddy 🧘♂️🤝😊
@@Krishways55 Naw animals are tasty. And better for your health
@@JohnDoe-ks9xx take care buddy 🤝😊
As a Moroccan, what this man said was so profound, that translating it could not be accurate! One of the wonders of the Arabic language! Beautiful video, thank you so much for bringing this some attention! I always LOVE the smell of real leather, and Fez is the HQ of leather lol
Ewa Marouan much love
I wish I could learn and understand every language because of this. there is something lost in translation for sure. but this was amazing to see!
You maybe mean the wonders of Moroccan Darija...He is not talking arabic language...
I’ve just visited this leather tannery in Fes and they indeed take a lot of pride in their work. While visiting I have developed a deep appreciation for what they do on a daily basis. It does have a deterring smell once you are standing on one of the patios overlooking the pools of various chemicals. However, Itwas nevertheless a great experience because it gave me a glimpse of what life was like ten centuries ago. Furthermore I’d made me appreciate traditional craftsmanship even more. I just hope they find a way to make their job safer and less labor intensive in the near future in which they still preserve their heritage and culture.
There are safer ways, they just don't want to use them. They are free to make their choices but I really don't like the idea of them trying to convince their kids to follow their footsteps into an early grave.
The span of 1000 years... mesmerizes me
My husband hasn't been back to his beloved home country of Morocco for over 10 years. There isn't a day that passes that goes without him mentioning Morocco. I have received beautiful treasures from Morocco from my mother and sister in law.💕
All I can say is that his attitude and love for his craft is truly inspiring
You can tell by his arms how much hard work it is.
As a student of leather and footwear engineering , I feel so connected to this person .
What are your studies like?
A few years back now my son-in-law was working on a construction site which, around 1000 years ago, used to be a tannery. The stench was still there and the chemicals in the soils caused skin reactions on many of the workers, my son-in-law still suffers today. The stuff used in these traditional methods is lethal (and there is a good reason why tanneries USED to be located away from built up areas) and still hangs around in the local environment a thousand years later. Not good.
Wow... a thousand years and not only still detectable but enough to be a health concern? Not all shifts away from "traditional" are bad.
I have MASSIVE respect for people like him truly an amazing craftsmanship/dedication, nothing but respect to this man!
As much as I admire his dedications and hard work, some traditions are meant to die off with their forefathers, especially one as health hazardous as his tanning technique. One has to appreciate his father for trying to turn him away from the craft.
True
Agreed, and it's not like tanning the leather like that makes it any better. Why not just preserve the knowledge of it but use modern methods?
we can also alter the prosses soit can be less dangerous and difficult, it's easy by the goverment, but who cares!
@@oldgoat8132people have been tanning leather with animal brains for thousands of years. More recently, over the past few hundred years people have learned to use entirely vegetable sources for tanning, such as oak bark and leaves. There are tanneries in the US that does it completely environmentally sound such as hermann oak, horween, sb foot and wickett & Craig, it’s just a lot more expensive and takes a lot more time to do it. Tanning is the process by which skin is turned into leather. Imagine how terrible a rotting skin couch would be compared to fine leather. Skin is entirely made better by tanning.
The pride in this man's face when he said you're buying the culture... just beautiful
Hopefully someday soon I’ll go there & support him by buying some of his leathery items I want them raw I appreciate his job more after watching this so thanks for showcasing beautiful & rare crafts as always!
They sell to the local artisans and then work on the design based on what the nature of the leather shapes.
Morocco is affordable if you fly out of Rome or Nice, France. In 2015 and 2017, my flight was around $300 round trip
world citizen G yea of course I’ll support the artisans too thanks for the info, appreciate it 🙏🏼
Triggered vegans after seeing your comment🤣🤣
Much respect to these craftsmen. You can see the passion in their eyes and that inner fire that just keeps them going.
Big ups to this guy for keeping his craft alive, and for striving through the extreme hard work it takes to do what he does. Takes a different kind of human to do so.
The respect of his son greeting him and kissing his hands is truly awesome 👏 wishing the chemicals could be changed to less toxic. And these crafts men get their proper fitting gears to protect themselves.
The chemicals must be toxic to be effective. Many modern tanneries use similar chemicals but mechanize the process, so that workers have little to no contact with them. As sad as it is to see this man’s heritage dying, this is one industry where modernization has been nothing but good.
They don't use processed chemicals, it's natural stuff acidic stuff, but it is still acidic. It's needed to remove the leftover fat and meat on the skin.
They can use mechanical tools to stay away from them, it is just that they like it how it is and no one want to change or don't even have an idea how to change it and keep as traditional as it is.
Not hard to see why this industry was modernized.
because its outright better modernization
I was very fortunate to visit Fez and see them create these beautiful crafts.
My full and deepest respect for these people.
Most people can hardly ever appreciate what so many other people go through to provide the things that we have become so accustomed to having. We take pride in owning exquisite pieces of jewelry, leather coats and hand crafted wallets, women who own those Louis Vuitton bags (originals), or fancy belts and shoes. Yet I wonder how many of us really appreciate your hard work? And especially us Americans who are so much more wealthy than most of the rest of the world's wealthiest people, who should be the most appreciative, but most often are the least. It's actually very shameful how so many of us take so much for granted. I wish them the best, and would love to hear that their business is thriving. Unfortunately, I know that modernization also makes it difficult for the workers in the traditional methods to compete with. But some people who do appreciate the quality and minor imperfections associated with the traditional methods are still around, and it's us who keep your business surviving, albeit no longer thriving. Thank you for sharing your trade secrets and the difficulties that you endure to keep your family business running.
Daymn bruh nice type up
@@ash.toronto31 Thank you
Tradition is great and all but there is a reason the old ways go away. I understand respecting the way we use to do things but that doesn't mean you have to keep doing it that way.
I'm a craftswoman myself (I make mainly accoutrements like lace, dorset buttons, woven trim, lace knitted bags, etc) and I'm reliant on people going "What's that!? Can I have some!? Can I do that?!" and I also rely on fine quality supplies done the Old ways. These ways need to continue, so that people like me can also keep using the supplies. This whole industry relies on hardworking men like him.
I've been there in "Fez" speacialy at this tannery for so many times and every time feels like the very first time
I can't find words to describe you the smell of that leather and the atmosphere of the old Medina
If your craft requires someone else to damage their health then your craft deserves to die off. If there are alternatives that don't require people to risk their health and you refuse to use them because they aren't traditional or authentic then you need to F off.
I'm all for people who want to keep crafts alive but not at the expense of others.
I worked in the last raw-hide tannery in the US (Maine). I notice the same root techniques being used (excluding cow urine and hydraulics). It's incredible to see someone doing it for 30 years.
it is so nice to see someone proud of their work and excited to see the art made with it sharing his culture and hard work with others
What a wonderful man, I wish the best for him, his family and all his fellow workers. Peace and prosperity, God willing.
I have great respect for Adil. You are truly an artist and a craftsman, my friend! You make very beautiful leather that I'd be proud to use in my shop. And it is true, as you said, someone carrying that bag is carrying 10 centuries of culture in their hands. Bravo!
Huge respect for their craftsmanship... 🖤🖤🖤
This man reminds of my father. Very hard workers and very motivated. Does the hardest job just to feed us. I love you dad.
Amazing that people like him are still keeping a way of life alive for over a thousand years. People who have this level of pride in their culture and way of life have so much to teach the rest of us. Modernization is definitely killing off the incredible cultures of the world
That’s one hard working man who’s passionate about his work! Hard to find his ilk in today’s world with everyone in the race to make quick bucks… also, his positive attitude is contagious, you have my respect brother Adil, Godspeed!
This was amazing.
The amount of hard work, art and passion that goes to this work is unbelievable.
These people deserve to be paid well for what they do.
Selling their products online would be a great way to enhance their business.
So true. I was looking at those shoes and purses. The detail is amazing!
I bought 2 bags in 2017, still great condition and loving both. The artisans in the shop was able to change the bag closures for a secure type. These truly are back breaking jobs, total respect 🙏. The media portrait Moroccan with negativity, they are very friendly, welcoming and speaks English and French.
@@TheEGA4421 the artisans told me to keep the leather longer, just polish it with vegetable oil when needed. My leather has not cracks since 2017
Home boy is over here talking about "I want conditions to improve for future generations". THEY LITERALLY ALREADY HAVE FOR HUNDREDS OF YEARS
Wow thank you business insider for shining a light onto amazing craftsmanship. I hope to visit Morocco and will definitely buy from them to support their business
I had the pleasure of playing a three stringed instrument hand made in Morocco. The resonator gourd was half covered with goat skin probably bought from one of these places. So neat!
As a Moroccan, I'm very proud of our heritage and culture 🇲🇦
Amazing and passionate craftsmen !! God bless all of them 🙏
💚🇲🇦 ⵜⴰⴳⵍⴷⵉⵜ ⵏ ⵍⵎⵖⵔⵉⴱ 🇲🇦 المملكة المغربية 🇲🇦💚
You Moroccans are the best people. I’m American and I vistes Morocco three months ago. And I can’t say I’ve been to a place with nicer people. God bless you.
@@nicolasnelson7752 Thank you 👍 Morocco 🇲🇦 was the first nation to recognize the newly independent United States 🇺🇸 On December 20, 1777. God bless you too.
A man with a full of energy ..
WOW! Bless these hard working craftsman
While I appreciate the historical significance of it, I feel like there are better ways to make leather, with less risk to yourself...
Just because something is made the old-fashioned way doesn't automatically make it better than modern methods. The reason why technology and methods kept improving was precisely because people wanted to improve their work, their efficiency and conditions. Most jobs nowadays are a lot safer than what they used to be many decades (and even centuries) back. I sympathize with this man and his passion for this work, but there's a reason why people moved on from these particular methods...
I mean, originally cavities were filled with mercury amalgam, should we also go back to that? Or apply leeches? I don't think so...
He has the feeling that things will get better.The glass is half full for him.I wish him well.
I respect this craftsmanship and optimism! I hope he stays well and passes on his skills to the next generation!
I hope he got paid well for this! Loved watching this. Beautiful culture.
As leather craftsman,i really appreciate his work
The Kingdom of Morocco ❤❤
I can tell how proud Adil of his culture and tradition that's why even if his job includes hazards, he still finds joy doing it.
Mr. Adil's passion is amazing.
Oh man. Seeing them bend their backs like that for lifting the leather and for scraping makes it quite obvious why his back hurts.
Truly back breaking work. I contributed my little shares by buying 2 unique bags
@@worldcitizeng6507 Are leather hides all that heavy.?.come on now..I only saw them lifting one at a time!
That doesn’t do justice 1000-year-old Tannery Can we get a 10 minute video come on we need a full documentary on this guy and his business
Amazing content , this is what should have millions of views.
Inspiring! When I visit Morocco, I will make sure to spend money on the original piece.
I did it and it worth 👍🏼
Amazing story on this. Well done!
such beautiful craftsmanship. hope i can visit Morocco soon. it's been one of the countries I've been wanting to visit for a long time.
I used to live in Morocco and yes the tannery does smell, especially in summer!
Can you please give me contact details
Agree
There is always something fascinating about a man and his passion
Positive energy illuminate from this happy fella. I hope his business turn better profit for him.
This is a very talented man who deserves the upmost of respect. Thank you for all your hard work. I wish him the best and pray for change because it's trades like this that help us learn and appreciate artisanship.
.
.
Thank you for posting. These hardworking gentlemen possess extraordinary technical abilities that are the result of many years in the industry. They are true professionals who are dedicated to maintaining the traditional processes. May God bless all of them and keep them safe from harm.
the efforts of making this video is beautiful
Those guys are ROCKS, tanning is one of the nastiest jobs you can do, let alone doing it the old-school way.
Bout as smart as rocks to keep doing it this way too.
I knew tanning was a tough job. Some others in this series I didn't quite know.
huge respect to these very hard working guys for keeping their culture and traditions.
Those handbags were absolutely stunning!
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Nothing but RESPECT to these people. Absolutely loved this 🤍🤍🤍
This man inspires . Great story . Thank you
The smell on the outcome product is irresistible, that smell of leather never die, so unique that you can't find in leather produced in the modern machines, also the quality is super high, silky and very flexible.
What an Awe inspiring man. Respect
Adil what a cool dude.
Thank you for this short but remarquable video
Amazing indeed!!!!! What a great sacrifice Adil does to keep tradition and cultur🙏🏽🙏🏽🤝🏾🤝🏾🤝🏾
As much as I am for tradition, processes need to adapt. Especially if you can make an equally good product without the health problems. Magnificent bags.
I am sure the two leather methods produce slightly different results. Either way this guy makes his the original way so we should respect that he has the patience and dedication.
The sheepskin company I work for changed the compounds they used last century, and now the tannery section hardly smells at all. The dangerous compounds used are minimal, and less harmful. We have more machines, yes, but you can do things more safely by hand too. We’re chrome-free, and our skins are safely biodegradable.
10 years back i used to buy raw skin from local meat shops. After buying i apply salt 2 times in 30 days and sell that material to tannary. Thanks for showing how tannary works
Moroccan minds are so bright and there is so much patience behind their art.
This is one of those situations where you have to wonder if it's for the best to let old practices die off... I don't know why "modern" practices are always seen as less-than compared to tradition. I would rather get my leather products from a machine than from a man who will get cancer to make my new shoes.
It's why they don't mass produce. Supporting the artisans keeps their tradition alive. When we lost the origin, we lost part of history
@@worldcitizeng6507 Exactly, coal miners should take pride in just using pickaxes instead of relying on machines and new fangled safety gears. Black lung disease is just part of being an artist I say. Don't even get me get started on those farmers who threw away their scythe and horse drawn plows the first chance they got. 🙄
The thing is many traditional crafts make better quality stuff than artificial ones but many people just apply that it's like that with every one of those crafts and say they must be preserved. People don't understand when to, and when not to embrace tradition
These leather workers are earning less than when they started. They are not artisans, they are underpaid laborers working under shocking conditions while competing with machine production because the finished goods is interchangeable.
Agreed
There's a guy in America doing this and he had the presence of mind to stretch and clip the hides vertical so he can stand upright and scrape the hides. This tradition has been around for hundreds of years and they never thought of that? Pfft
The scraper he is using is simple but genius design. It reduces the strain on your arms a lot, letting you use your stronger muscles by leaning against the crossbar.
Fēz! greetings from the Natural NW Empire Amexem🇺🇸 to the Kingdom of Morocco.
I love it
We are also doing this kind of work in Agra India. Initially I thought that We are only doing this but now i found another. It feel me proud😀
His voice is mesmerizing.
ii live in rabat and i really appreciate the work of these guys they made perfect handbags and leather bags
fes is the city of history and lot of people dont know about it .they know only about marrakech. fes everything there is hand made from copper to zellij ceramic cloth ...list is too long the city has more than 9600 alleyways the biggest city in the world with no cars only pedestrians it's like labyrinth . the oldest university in the world founded their in fez and many historical moniments .i wish people visit the city its very beautiful
I visited in 2017, fell in love with it's beauty, cuisine etc. Love my Berber scarfs, love chefchaouen!
There is a famous greek short story from D. Hatzis, named "Sioulas o Tampakos", and it deals about a traditional tanner community in Ioannina at the beginning of the 20th century. The tanners start off as proud, making good money and a bit arrogant, then fail to modernize and compete with new technology and so the inevitable decline and obsolescence begins.
So interesting, thank you for sharing
I love this channel for being the telescope of these guys
its nice to protect an old ceaft/culture... but its hard work, hazardous work... plus tanneries pollute environment and dyeing too either leather or cotton
“Powerful odors” is an understatement 😅
He would be the only one with the passion & drive to change the industry. He is a voice for all in the business.
tbh listening to Adil, i learnt more than just tannery. his thinking and believes is respectable.
Love to Morrocco 💪🙏✌❤
I can appreciate and admire old world crafts and practices but when your able to get cancer or chemical burns that often, I would say that you should find an alternative to how to do it.
His pride and love for his craft makes me feel like I'm watching a Rolls-Royce car assembly video. Great man.
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Love this series.